Chapter I: Prologue: How I Came to Be a Tramp 3

I. ROBBED IN THE TRAIN 15

II. CHRISTMAS IN LITTLE RUSSIA 24

III. MUMMERS AT A COUNTRY HOUSE 38

IV. AT UNCLE’S 52

V. AMONG MOSCOW STUDENTS 60

VI. “LOVE US WHEN WE ARE DIRTY, FOR 73
EVERYONE WILL LOVE US WHEN WE ARE
CLEAN!”

VII. A NIGHT AT A SHRINE 83

VIII. THE DAY AFTER THE FEAST 94

IX. A MUSHROOM FAIR IN LENT 101

X. DEPARTURE FROM MOSCOW 108

XI. THE COMING OF SUMMER IN THE 117
CAUCASUS

XII. THE EPISTLE TO THE CAUCASIANS 124

XIII. A MOUNTAIN DAWN 131

XIV. AMONG THE INGOOSHI 138

XV. THE IRON NOT MADE BY HANDS 149

XVI. AT A MILL ON THE TEREK 156

XVII. THE GORGE OF DARIEL 163

XVIII. AT A VILLAGE INN 167

XIX. “THROUGH SNOW AND ICE” 172

XX. LAVRENTI CHAM KHOTADZE 176

XXI. ON THE ROAD TO TIFLIS 182

XXII. A TWO-HUNDRED-MILE WALK 188

XXIII. CLIMBING INTO WINTER 194

XXIV. A NIGHT IN A KOUTAN 199

XXV. OVER MAMISON 204

XXVI. ARRESTED 210

XXVII. FIVE DAYS UNDER ARREST 216

XXVIII. MR ADAM 224

XXIX. THE BAPTIST CHAPEL 235

XXX. THE WOMAN WHO SAW GOD 243

XXXI. ALI PASHA 248

XXXII. THE SORROWING MAN 255

XXXIII. THE CUCUMBER FAIR 262

XXXIV. OVER THE CAUCASUS 271

EPILOGUE: THE HORIZON 285