Chapter XXXIX: Appendix: How to Get About

_A Chapter for Prospective Tourists_

HERE seems to me to be every reason why Englishmen should visit the Caucasus and see what it is like for themselves. There is no likelihood of the place being overrun, or of ordinary pleasure-seekers invading it. The Caucasus is a preserved Alps.

I propose to write a few words on the facilities for seeing the country in the hope that they may be of use to some who think of touring there.

The fare from London to Vladikavkaz is:

1st class £19
return

2nd class £13
return

3rd class £8, 10s
return

Return tickets are available for sixty days.

The tickets cannot be taken right through, and it is advisable to take them from London to Alexandrovo, the Russian frontier, and thence to Vladikavkaz. There are various companies which issue tickets for Alexandrovo, the Great Eastern Railway Company, the London, Chatham and Dover, and the Belgium States Railway Company, 52 Gracechurch Street, E.C. The last-named is the only company issuing third-class tickets. It is as convenient to travel third as to travel second in Belgium and Germany. In Russia, however, it is extremely inconvenient to travel third class. The carriages are dirty, and the passengers Russian peasants, and the seats are wooden. First and second-class compartments are very comfortable, and one may be fairly sure of sleeping at night, since a ticket entitles one to the whole length of a seat.

The train takes five days from Alexandrovo, with changes at Warsaw (here one has to cross the town from the Viensky to the Brestky Station, the fare for which by droshky is one rouble), Kiev, Poltava and Rostof. There is, however, a fast train, Warsaw-Rostof (first and second class only), which enables one to do the journey in two days less. A special ticket (platzkaart), costing 10s., has to be bought at the Brestky Station, Warsaw. The train leaves that station at 5.11 p.m.

Another route is by train to Odessa (tickets may be taken from London to Odessa), and thence by boat to Novorossisk, Sukhum or Batum.

The fares are:

┌────────────────────┬───────────────────────────────────────────────┐ │PORT. │ NOVOROSSISK. │ ├────────────────────┼───────────────────────┬───────────────────────┤ │CLASS. │ With Meals. │ Without Meals. │ ├────────────────────┼───────────┬───────────┼───────────┬───────────┤ │ │ 1st │ 2nd │ 2nd │ 3rd │ ├────────────────────┼───────────┼───────────┼───────────┼───────────┤ │Fare from Odessa in │ 27.30 │ 19.90 │ 14.40 │ 5.45 │ │ Russian or English│roubles or │roubles or │roubles or │roubles or │ │ Money │ £2, 12/- │ £2, 12/- │ £1, 10/- │ 12/- │ ├────────────────────┼───────────┴───────────┴───────────┴───────────┤ │ │ SUKHUM. │ ├────────────────────┼───────────┬───────────┬───────────┬───────────┤ │Fare from Odessa │ 38.15 │ 27.50 │ 19.40 │ 6.50 │ │ Fare from Odessa │roubles or │roubles or │roubles or │roubles or │ │ in Russian or │ £3, 19/- │ £2, 18/- │ £2, 11/- │ 14/- │ │ English Money │ │ │ │ │ ├────────────────────┼───────────┴───────────┴───────────┴───────────┤ │ │ BATUM. │ ├────────────────────┼───────────┬───────────┬───────────┬───────────┤ │Fare from Odessa │ 42.10 │ 30.30 │ 21.19 │ 7.50 │ │ Fare from Odessa │roubles or │roubles or │roubles or │roubles or │ │ in Russian or │ £ 4, 7/- │ £3, 3/- │ £2, 15/- │ 15/- │ │ English Money │ │ │ │ │ └────────────────────┴───────────┴───────────┴───────────┴───────────┘

Another route is _via_ St Petersburg and Moscow. Boats carry passengers to St Petersburg at various fares, and the ticket to Vladikavkaz from St Petersburg costs:

(Single)

1st class 46 roubles 20 copecks
or £4, 15s.

2nd class 26 roubles 95 copecks
or £2, 16s.

3rd class 15 roubles 40 copecks
or £1, 11s.

It is a long and tiring journey, and one will appreciate the pleasure of lounging in Vladikavkaz for a few days. The hotels are good, and rooms can be taken from a rouble (two shillings) a day. From Vladikavkaz the celebrated Georgian road runs to Tiflis—150 miles. There are various conveyances, and I append the fares:

roubles day(s)
By motor omnibus from the Grand Hotel. 30 1
By diligence coach 10 2
By carriage and pair 70 2
By four-seated lineika (jaunting-car) 45 3
By furgon (a van) 3 4

(This last must be bargained for beforehand.)

Night accommodation at the post-stations is free, except for a charge of 3d. or 4d. for linen.

Instead of going by any of these conveyances one may walk, and in that way the tourist will undoubtedly see more of the country and of the people. Any passing cart will give one a lift at the rate of about 12 miles for 6d. Food of a rough kind is obtainable at the _dukhans_, of which there are hundreds; bread is 1¼d. (5 copecks) a pound, and eggs (cooked) two a penny or less; wine, 1d. a glass; milk as in England; tea, _ad lib_, 2½d.; mutton, 2½d. a plate; chicken, 3d. or 4d. a plate. [A Russian copeck corresponds to an English farthing, and a rouble is 100 copecks and is approximately worth 2s.] For a rouble one can get an ordinary hot Russian dinner at the post stations. Tiflis hotels are on a level with those of Vladikavkaz—the best is the _Vetsel_, with rooms from one to eight roubles a day.

The Trans-Caucasian railway runs from Tiflis to Batum, a distance of three hundred miles, and passes through some of the most beautiful of the southern country. It runs via Kutais, and this town is connected with Vladikavkaz by a road two hundred miles long, which one may travel partly by stage coach from Kutais to Oni—110 versts, fare about six roubles. The road onward is only open to traffic from June to September, and there are no regular conveyances. One can take a lineika for thirty roubles. The lineika is a low jaunting car, having no protection either against wind or rain. One sits sideways, and one’s feet dangle beside the wheels. It has springs and is comfortable enough in fine weather. It is the best vehicle available on this road. The journey over the Mamison Pass, 9281 feet high, may be extremely cold and stormy, and it is advisable to start in the finest weather. A snowstorm in midsummer is by no means unusual. Near Lisri there is a by-road of extraordinary grandeur to Kobi on the Georgian road.

To see _Elbruz_ it is best to go to Kislovodsk by rail from Vladikavkaz (260 versts). Kislovodsk is the most fashionable watering-place in Russia.

It is extremely interesting to go by boat from Novorossisk to Batum, calling at each of the thirteen Caucasian ports on the Black Sea—Gilendzhik, Dzhubra, Tuapse, Lazarevsky, Sochi, Adler, Gagri, Gudaut, Novy Afon, Sukhum, Ochemchiri, Batum.

From Sukhum there is a road to Kislovodsk, 300 versts, crossing the Klukhorsky Pass, 9600 feet high. One can generally obtain a conveyance at the rate of three roubles a day, and the journey, if continuous, would take about ten days. It is possible, however, to do it in four days in a phaeton, and this would cost not less than 100 roubles for the journey. In many places this so-called road degenerates to a mere track broken by rocks and overwashed by waterfalls. It is certainly more convenient to drive than to walk in the higher parts.

Besides these roads there are hundreds of tracks leading to the fastnesses of the mountains, and these are more or less difficult and wild. They can only be explored by the horseman or the pedestrian, and the former needs to have a sure seat. Horses may be hired at £2 for the summer, or may be bought entirely at prices ranging from £5 upwards. It may be mentioned, however, that the natives, especially the Ingooshi, are expert horse thieves.

Russian is the only language of any value in the Caucasus, and the tourist should know at least a smattering of it. It is most important to realise that the natives speak an extremely childish and simple language that is easily understood. It is unnecessary to know more than the elements of the language and a good assortment of useful words. A Berlitz course, or something similar, taught by a Russian teacher, is probably the most useful. One should certainly carry a pocket dictionary.

Much is said of the danger of travelling in the Caucasus, especially by Russians, but there is truly little danger. It is likely that an English traveller will have queer adventures, but unlikely that he will come to harm. I never took my revolver out once on my tramps, but doubtless many people would feel more secure with a weapon in their pocket. One thing may be warned—keep out of the way of the police. The whole police system of the Caucasus is corrupt, and innocent or guilty, English or Russian, one is not likely to get out of their hands easily. Permission to carry firearms into Russia must be obtained through the Russian Consul General in London, and application should be made six weeks in advance.

The outfit may be best purchased in England, but the black sheepskin cloaks worn by many people in the Caucasus are extremely serviceable, being warm and completely waterproof; they can be bought in the towns for ten roubles. It is well to look passably well-dressed on the road, as that ensures respect and courteous treatment. Good manners help one immensely in any difficulty. There is a sort of custom in Russia when entering a shop to salute the shopkeeper and say “Zdrast-vit-yé!” I, for my part, when tramping, would always bow comprehensively to the shopkeeper and the company in the shop—especially if it is an inn.

On entering a shop, a Russian commonly inquires the price of everything there, and the shopman doesn’t feel vexed if, after turning over all his wares, nothing is bought. Whereas, if one merely buys a penny glass of wine and drinks it politely, one is wished well on one’s journey, the whole company is pleased, and when one goes away the innkeeper says, “There goes an Englishman—a fine man!”

THE END

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INDEX

A

Adler, 305

Alagir, 192, 220, 221

Alexandrovo, 16, 302

Alexandrovsky Boulevard, 126

Alexandrovsky Bridge, 166

Alpani, 191

Ananaour, 176, 184, 280

Andrief, Leonid, 44, 71, 210

Aragva, 174, 176, 182

Arakhveti, 177

Ararat, Mt., 252

Ard-Garon, 222

Ardon, 192, 211, 219, 220, 222

Armenians, 169, 277, 281

Azov, Sea of, 11

B

Babel, Tower of, 140

Baku, 252

Baptists, The, 32, 158, 159, 235, 237, 255

Batum, 252, 302, 304, 305

Black Sea, 119, 126

C

Candlemas Gate, 67

Candlemas Monastery, 67

Caspian Sea, 119, 126

Cathedral of the Annunciation, 112

Cherkesses, The, 119

Chiatouri, 124

Chisty-Prudy, 83

D

Dalin-dalin, 132, 136, 137, 138, 140, 145

Dariel Gorge, 148, 163, 164, 165, 166, 274

Devdorak Glacier, 166

Devil’s Bridge, 164

Dneiper River, 61

Donetz River, 28

Dostoievsky, 10

Dushet, 185

Dzhubra, 305

E

Ekaterinoslav, 39

Elbruz, 118, 144, 305

Ermolovsky Stone, 163

F

Fortoug, 129, 143, 144, 147

G

Gagri, 305

Georgian Military Road, 128, 131, 148, 157, 163, 304, 305

Georgians, The, 119, 126, 128, 139, 169, 177, 186, 191

Georgian Women, 84, 123, 127

Germany, 7, 15, 62

Gilendzhik, 305

Gizel, 222

Glola, 195

Gogol, 37

Gorky, 94, 192

Gudaour, 174, 175, 276, 279, 283

Gudaut, 305

Gurshevi, 188, 196, 197

I

Ikon, The, 40, 80, 88, 89, 90, 91, 93, 111, 149, 177, 226, 234

Imeritia, 188

Ingooshi, The, 126, 128, 129, 139

K

Kassar, Gorge of, 219

Kazbek, 148, 155, 167, 272

Kharkov, 11, 16, 19, 60, 108

Khevsurs, The, 182

Khitry Market, 74

Khvamli Table Mountain, 194

Kiev, 33, 62, 96, 302

Kislovka, 67, 69

Kislovodsk, 305

Klukhorsky Pass, 305

Kobi, 157, 167, 173, 271, 273, 305

Kremlin, The, 9, 74, 109, 112, 268

Krestovy Pass, 172, 277

Kuma River, 187

Kutais, 128, 188, 189, 195, 305

L

Larse, 163

Lazarevsky, 305

Life of Man, The (Andrief), 40, 41, 44-50

Lisitchansk, 11, 20, 23, 30, 57, 235

Lisri, 189, 210, 218, 305

M

Mahommedans, 142, 145, 202, 250

Mamison Pass, 188, 195, 204, 210, 305

Marzalkovsky, 7

Maximkina, 129

Mekhven, 190, 191

Misure, 220

Mleti, 175, 176, 271, 280, 282, 283

Molokans, The, 235

Moscow, 7, 9, 30, 61, 65-82, 83, 101-106

Mtskhet, 187

N

Nadiban, 181

Nadson, 71

Narodny Dom, 83

Nizhni Novgorod, 9, 266

Novorossisk, 302, 305

Novy Afon, 305

Nuzal, 218, 219

O

Ochemchiri, 305

Odessa, 96, 302, 303

Oni, 189, 190, 194, 305

Ossetia, 188, 211

Ossetines, The, 119, 126, 127, 128, 169, 196, 199, 210, 214

P

Pasanaour, 176, 182

Persians, The, 118, 120, 122, 126, 160, 162, 169, 248, 280

Petersburg, St, 33, 303

Petrovsky Park, 83

Pkhelshi, 158

Poland, 7

Poltava, 302

R

Rion River, 189, 195

Rostof, 237, 264, 302

Rubezhniya, 52, 59

S

Sergievo, 84, 93, 94, 96

Sevastopol, 20, 21

Siberia, 31

Sochi, 305

Sokolniky, 84

Steeple of St John, 83, 112, 115

Stolovy Mountain, 131

St Saviour’s Church, 101

Sukhareva Tower, 74

Sukhum, 302, 305

Svani, The, 191

T

Tabriz, 252

Tamara, Castle of Queen, 165

Tatars, The, 126

Tchekhof, 71

Teheran, 252

Terek River, 128, 144, 157, 163, 166, 272, 275

Theatre of Art, Moscow, 83

Tiflis, 124, 128, 187, 191, 252, 264, 271, 304

Tli, 216

Tolstoy, 71

Trans-Caucasia, 148, 166

Troitsky Lavra, 84

Tuapse, 305

Turgeniev, 7

Tverskoe Boulevard, 81

U

Uspensky Cathedral, 115

Utsera, 195, 198

V

Vindavsky Station, 74

Vladikavkaz, 124, 126, 131, 141, 154, 223, 226, 286, 301, 303

W

Warsaw, 7, 8, 9, 16, 302

Z

Zaramag, 215, 216, 217

Zhouetti, 193

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● Transcriber’s Notes:
○ The tables on page 303 were reformatted to match the capabilities
of HTML.
○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
when a predominant form was found in this book.
○ Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_).

End of Project Gutenberg's A Vagabond in the Caucasus, by Stephen Graham