Chapter XII (6)

The _New-England_ People alledged, their Trade seemed the least essential Article in the Injury complained of; for unless our Islands found means to take off the other Impediments, and bring their Sugars to as cheap, or cheaper Price than the _French_ and _Dutch_, they would be the same in respect to foreign Markets; and if new Grounds are better, or more wanted in Plantations, there are enough at _Jamaica_, _St. Christopher’s_, &c. to redress the Evil. But this is not in their View, say they; the more Lands are employed, the less will be the Value of the present Estates, an impolitick Reduction of all prodigal Expences; for every Island singly, reckon their Happiness in part, not from the flourishing Condition of another, but from Casualties, and bad Seasons; _the less quantity there is to answer the Demand, the higher the Price_.

_Barbados_ formerly used to buy the _French_ and _Dutch_ Sugars, making all that Trade go through their own hands, till in 1715, laying a Duty turned the Channel, and they would now make up that oversight by imposing their own Price on us.

The Northern Colonies deserve Favour, they think, as vastly superior in Number and Trade, take off more of the Manufactures of _England_ for themselves, and their Trade with the _Indians_, who exchange Furrs and Pelfry to make Hats; for the same Reason, they want more Molossus to manufacture among themselves, than our Islands can sell, or if they could, cannot take off one quarter of the Lumber, Horses, and refuse Fish, with which we trade with the _French_, not only for Rum and Molossus (which may as well come to us this way, as through their hands) but sometimes also Money; and without which we have no means of purchasing, nor could get rid of our Produce and Industry, which is very unreasonable.

To lay a Tax of six-pence a Gallon on _French_ Molossus, is the same as a Prohibition, which their Country cannot so easily bear. They take 20000 Hogsheads a year (each 100 Gallons) from the _Dutch_ and _French_, which is 50000_l._ whereas they have no Specie to pay it, their Currency being all Paper, and that but 30000_l_. Besides, it would be the first Tax on a charter’d Colony from _England_, where they have no Representatives.

_Lastly_, it was said, the _French_ buy their Negroes, and Sugar-Materials (Mills, Coppers, &c.) 40 _per Cent._ dearer than us; therefore for our Islands to say they cannot afford as cheap, is to say, they will not abate of their Pride and Luxury, but help to maintain it by a Tax on our more humble Industry.

_The WEST-INDIES._

For a general Idea of the _West-Indies_, we may understand by that Term, all the Continent, Sea, and Islands, from _Terra Firma_ to _Florida_, or from near the Equinoctial to 28°° of N. Latitude; and if you include _Bermudas_, to 32°°. The main Land in this Circuit divided into _Spanish_ Provinces, is more peculiarly called the _Spanish West-Indies_, they possessing all, unless to the Southward in _Guiana_ and _Paria_, where there are a few _English_, _Dutch_, and _French_, interspersed on the Rivers and Coast of _Oronoko_, _Surinam_, and _Amazons_.

They import hence to _Europe_, besides Rum and Sugars, great quantities of Cocoa, Indigo, Cotton, Logwood, Ginger, Lignum-vitæ, Cochineel, Snuff, Cassia, Aloes, Pimento, Tortoise-shell, Dyers, and other Wood, a Variety of Drugs, and above all, prodigious Quantities of Plate, and some Gold.

The Islands in this Sea are the _Charibbees_, _Sotovento_, _Antilles_, and _Bahama_.

_Charibbees_ were the lesser _Antilles_, about 30 in number, whereof the _French_ have _Martinico_, _St. Lucia_, _Bartholomew_, _Deseada_, _Granada_, _Marigalant_, _Guadalupe_, and _Santa Cruz_. To the _Dutch_ belong in whole or part, _Saba_, _Eustatia_, _St. Vincent_, and _Tobago_, or _Tobacco Island_; so called, from the Plenty of that Weed there, or the Weed so called, as first transplanted thence. The rest are _English_, and of them _Barbados_ is chief. Others next of Note are _Antegoa_, _Nevis_, _St. Christopher’s_, and _Montserrat_; which have a separate Governor, stiled General of the Leeward Islands, their principal Produce with us, is Rum and Sugars; but the _French_, besides these, cultivate Cocoa, and Indigo: and as the managing of more Lands naturally gives Plenty, and makes room for an Increase of People, the _French_ Policy of late years has considerably increased their Colonies at _Martinico_ and _Hispaniola_; some say 40000 settled there at the _French_ King’s Expence, with the Addition of a year’s Maintenance, to countenance their _Mississipi_ Settlements, and these further Views of drawing over Men’s Affections, by affording _Europeans_ the _West-India_ Commodities, at the cheapest rate, and strengthning themselves against the Resentment of any who dislike it.

In some are found large Caves that run half a Mile under ground, supposed the Dwelling-places of the old Natives, who quickly forsook them to the new Inmates; tho’ _Dampier_ says, he met some of these _Charibbees_ at _St. Lucia_, and _St. Vincent_, and others say the like of _Curasao_: The Name imports _Cannibals_, an Inhumanity charged on them at the Discovery, as a proper Accusation for Dispossessors.

_Sotovento Isles_ lie E S E. and W N W. along the _Terra Firma_, called so because the _Spaniards_ in their Voyages to _Mexico_, make them one after another _sub vento_ (to Leeward.) Of these, the _Dutch_ have _Curasao_, _Oruba_, and _Berraire_. The _Spaniard_ the others, (_La Trinidad_, and _Margarita_, chief;) from whence, and the _Antilles_, they have of late years very much infested this Navigation, with their _Guard le Costas_, confiscating the _English_ Effects in Reprisal, it is supposed, for the Loss of their Fleet near _Messina_, 1718.

_The greater Antilles_ are, _Cuba_, _Hispaniola_, _Portorico_, and _Jamaica_; the three former, _Spanish_.

_Cuba_ is principal; a very pleasant and flourishing Island, the _Spaniard_ building and improving for Posterity, without dreaming, as the _English_ Planters do, of any other Home. They make the best Sugars in the _West-Indies_. It was from this Island, (_Velasquez_ Governor,) that _Cortez_ in 1518, made his Expedition and Conquest of _Mexico_.

The _Havana_, its chief Port and Town, is esteemed the richest in _America_; for besides its own valuable Produce, the _Spanish_ Fleets from all parts on the _Main_, make up here in their return to _Europe_.

The Islands on the South Side of it, and the _Camaines_, are resorted to for the largest and best _Turtle_.

_Porto-Rico_, and _Hispaniola_ (the diminutive of _Hispania_) are Islands we make, in our Passage to _Jamaica_, famous of late for their _Guard le Costas_. These Privateering Fellows, when they are not acting by lawful Commission, they know the Governor’s Mind, and bring in Ships on a pretence they are trading with the King of _Spain_’s Subjects in a clandestine and prohibited manner; if they find any Pieces of Eight, it is a Condemnation; an Encouragement in searching a Ship, to deposite some there themselves: Or if this Trick fails, they are yet detained, and on various Pretences lengthned out with Law-suits, till ruined. We called, after weighing from _Barbados_, at _Sancto Domingo_, the chief Town of _Hispaniola_, where we found three _English_ Masters of Ships under these Hardships. They had got the better in Law, but with such Charge and Delay, that it had spoiled their Ships and Voyages; and lest that should not do it effectually, their Damages are against the Captains of the Privateers, who are perhaps the Governor’s servile Dependants, and not worth a Groat.

_Sancto Domingo_ Harbour has 15 Fathom Water at the Bar, and the Entrance defended by several Batteries. The Town is the Residence of an Arch-Bishop, and a President from _Spain_, who lives in a House that is said to have been built and occupied by _Christopher Columbus_ himself. To this Officer (on account of its prior Settlement) Appeals come from all the _Spanish West-India_ Islands, whose Sentence is definitive, unless called by a particular Commission to _Old Spain_. They buy their Places, it seems, and consequently execute them oppressively.

The Island is diminished of its Inhabitants, for this, or a securer and better Settlement on the Continent; so that the _French_ now, about _Petit Guavas_, equal, if not outnumber them, tho’ both together are vastly short of what its Extent and Fertility deserves. A Soil that produces any thing; their Sea and Rivers full of Fish, and the Country spread with Forests of Cabbage and Palm-Trees, in which are prodigious Numbers of wild Hog and Beef, which the _Hunters_ of different Nations at certain Seasons shoot, the latter for their Hides; and the Pork, they _jerk_ (as they call it) that is, strip it from the Bones, and then salting the Flesh a little, dry it in the Sun.

_Bahamas_, so called from the Principal, or _Lucayes_ from _Lucayone_ (new _Providence_, the largest of them) where the _English_ have a Governor: They are noted for a dangerous and rapid Chanel, commonly called the Gulph of _Florida_, through which the _Spanish_ Fleets always take their Passage to _Europe_, and are frequently shipwrecked.

The Pyrates often take their rise here, or if not, seldom fail in the Course of their Adventures to visit these Seas. There are Multitudes of little Islands and Kays, besides this Division above, that afford Refreshments of wild Hog, Cow, Goat, Sheep, Parrots, Guanas, Turtle, and Fish; many of them uninhabited, and seldom visited but on that account, whereby they are a natural and good Security. The Sailor, when he would express the Intricacy of any Path-way, stiling it the _Caribbees_.

They commonly make their Beginning here after this manner; when any _Spanish_ Ship is wrecked in _Florida_, the _Jamaicans_ fit out Vessels to fish upon her, (the best I believe, being always pleas’d with going shares in such Voyages, which may be judged of by their Treatment of the Galleon cast away on _Jamaica_, a very few Years ago) and dispute a Right of Plunder with the _Spaniard_ himself, who is also fitted from the _Havana_ on these Accidents, to recover what they can; the Contest therefore is with various Fortune, and sometimes turns to a bad account.

Our Logwood-Cutters from _Campechy_ and _Honduras_, who have been unfortunate by the frequent Visits of the _Spaniards_ to destroy that Trade, remove hither, or those to them, to consult of Reparations to their broken Fortunes. Saunterers also, who are turtling from different Parts, do all together make a considerable Resort sometimes, and being prompted to Revenge for the Injuries sustained, they combine and furnish out a little Sloop perhaps _against them at first_, who finding little come by confining their _Ways and Means_ to the _Spaniards_ only, who sail in Fleets, they fall at last on any Nation; the Transition being easy from a Buccanier to a Pyrate; from plundering for others, to do it for themselves.

These Logwood-Cutters, (since mentioned) I must observe, were originally settled at the Bay of _Campechy_, but with a contested Right that made it hazardous, the _Spaniard_ opposing the Legality, and when uppermost, treating them as Pyrates, which our People have frequently returned again with Interest. It was taken 1659, by Sir _Christopher Mins_. In 1678 again, by the _English_ and _French_ Privateers; and what Licence the Peace of _Utrecht_ gave, I am uncertain, but they are since drove out, and now support themselves with their Arms at the Bay of _Honduras_.

They are about 500 (Merchants and Slaves,) and have taken up their Residence at a Place called _Barcaderas_, about 40 Miles up a narrow River full of Alligators; and what is a greater Inconvenience against transporting their Effects, is a strong Current in it from the Freshes up Land, and the Banks being covered with Shrubs, that makes it difficult to walk and tow the Boats; covered also with infinite Numbers of Sand-Flies, and Muskitos. They live in Pavilions; a Servant at their time of lying down to rest, shaking them till cleared of these Vermin, that are an unsufferable Plague and Impediment to Sleep.

At the Season (once a year) they move their Pavilions from the pleasurable Spots, the better to attend the Logwood cutting, which carries them sometimes many Miles from this principal Residence, to follow the Wood, which runs in a Line or Vein (like Minerals in the Earth) of some Miles perhaps, and then as many, without a Stick of it. They cut it into large Pieces, and leave it on the Ground till the Land-Flood favours their bringing it into the River, and then Canoos are laden away with it, to lay in store at _Barcaderas_, where the Chief are still left residing.

They have all good Arms, and knowing the _Spanish_ Clemency, defend themselves desperately, if attacked; which has happened seldomer than at _Campechy_, and always by Sea.

A Servant, which is the first Step with Seamen into the Trade, is hired at a Tun of Logwood _per_ Month, and has one Day in seven for himself, making together about 10_l._ a Month to him; hence, if thoughtful and sober, they in time become Masters, join Stock, and trade independently. They have a King, chose from among their Body, and his Consort is stiled Queen, agreeing to some Laws by common Consent, as a Guide to them.

The Ships that come into the Bay, are on their Guard also, fetch it down in flat-bottomed Boats, each Crew being allowed on the Voyage, a Bottle of Rum and some Sugar, and row generally in the Night, as freest from those stinging Flies, and rest in the Day.

The Exchange with Ships is for Money, Beer, Flower, or any sort of Provisions and Necessaries; these, the cunningest reserve in Store against the Wants and Demands of the Inconsiderate, and so make extraordinary Returns.

It may not be improper to conclude this Head with an Observation or two on the Channel and Current of _Florida_, which I submit to the more Skilful.

This Gulph is as dangerous a Navigation as any known; the _Spaniards_ often experience it, because it’s an Addition to the Danger, that they have unwieldy Ships, and lubberly Seamen. We commit Errors, I imagine, by our common Charts, which lay down the Channel double the Breadth it is; the most intelligent in the Passage having assured me, it is not above 16 or 18 Leagues over; and therefore when a Storm happens, build on a false Supposition.

The _Spaniard_ is likewise over-careful to be safe; the nicer Observations made on Shoals, Currents, or Winds, either here or in the Bay, when and how to make them advantageous, are from an imagined Security against any maritime Power, committed only to their Admiral (according to common Report) whose Light the Fleet are to follow; and for their better Recovery of any shipwrecked Cargo in the Gulph, (frequent in losing the Admiral,) they have a Garrison at _St. Augustine_, on the _Florida_ Shore, a barren Spot where they are almost starved, and which would not be worth keeping but for this. Ships and Vessels may, and often have sailed through this Channel from the N End to _Cuba_, or the Bay of _Mexico_, notwithstanding the common Opinion, on account of the Current, that is against it. They keep the _Bahama_ shore aboard, Shoals of a great Extent, sprinkled with rocky Islands so low, there is very little Safety to those unhappy Men who are cast away upon them; yet at several, there are anchoring Places, and fresh Water found.

They meet the Wind in Summer, for the greatest part of the Channel, Easterly; which with a counter Current in shore, pushes them through easily; much the better way for any sudden Attack upon the _Havana_ (a glorious Attempt in time of War) because they cannot discover you, like as in the other Path from _Jamaica_, where by Beacons, they can gain an Intelligence of 150 Leagues in a very short Space of time, and so be the better prepared.

In order to the laying down my Sentiment on the _Florida_ Current, I shall premise the Facts and Observations of our Pilots in relation to this Gulph, and that of _Mexico_, which have a Dependency as to the Cause of it, with each other.

1. This Stream goes constantly out to the Northward in mid Channel, its Force having some respect (like Tides in other Channels) to the Moon and to the Winds; with a counter Current, or at least a Stillness of the Water in shore, that will enable a Ship to turn through, be the middle Stream never so strong; the same as in the Strait of _Gibraltar_, where tho’ the Current is continually into the _Mediterranean_, Ships may work through, keeping the Shore aboard.

2. The Current which goes out here, sets for the most part into the Gulph of _Mexico_, between the two Capes of _Corientes_ and _Catoche_, with counter Currents in shore; tho’ not always so, the Pilots having observed them strong to the East, new, and full Moons.

3. As to the Bay of _Mexico_ it self, there are every where Currents round it various and uncertain, as to the Point they run on, or time of Continuance, especially on the _Apalachian_ Side where it is safest stopping in the Night, and up Anchor only, in the Day. That these Currents are less discernible the farther from shore, and for the most part, bend to the Trend of the Lands; that is, when you have rounded Cape _Catoche_, it sets Westward, open with _Campechy_ Bay to the Southward: From _Vera Cruz_ in 19°° to the Latitude of 28°° it runs to the Northward, and thence round the Bay to the Eastward; more perceptible, I say, the nearer shore, because bounded, and makes the Tides in the Rivers.

4. The Rivers of _Georgia_, and _Carolina_ (next Coast to _Florida_ Northward) have as regular Tides as the _Thames_. So again, in the Bay of _Honduras_ Southward, whose Reflux, it must be taken notice, makes a Northern Current.

Now to sum up all, in order to account for the Current of _Florida_, which seems to me only this, that more of the Flood is propagated into the Bay of _Mexico_, by that Passage made from the West End of _Cuba_, and Shore of _Yucatan_; and more of the Ebb by the Chanel of _Florida_, and for these Reasons.

The Gulph of _Mexico_ receives many and large Rivers, whose Mouths together carry some proportion with the Chanel of _Florida_; and consider’d as a little _Mediterranean_ Sea, the Flood in it must have a more remarkable and strong Ebb: which shews it self rather here, _first_, because the Make of the Lands gives a freer Opening and Tendency of the Waters that way. _Second_, The Length and Contraction of the Channel, makes it more visible and constant, and is the Continuance of those River-Streams (that disembogue in the Bay) even till it meets with the Tide to the Northward, which checks, like as at them, and produces a counter Current along shore: for we may observe, that altho’ the Current goes constantly out in the Channel, yet at the Isle of _Providence_ contiguous to it almost, the Tides are alternate and regular. _Third_, The Winds at East are more favourable to the Exit than the _Trade_, which sets in directly at the other Passage, and while it helps the Flood there, is at the same time an Obstacle to its Return; to which assists also that Northern Current from the Bay of _Honduras_; nor will it be so perceptible there, because what Reflux is, opens to a wider Sea immediately, and probably had been the same at _Florida_, if the Gulph of _Mexico_ had open’d without such Restraint to the main Ocean directly.

On this Supposition, the Variety and Uncertainty of Currents in the Bay, and the greater or less Rapidity in the Chanel, will depend much on the Winds without; and as they are dry or wet Seasons at Land, new and full Moons should influence the Strength of the Stream; and hard Gales concurring at N. or N E. among the _Bahamas_, should slacken it there, and promote an Eastern Current at the other Passage.

_JAMAICA._

_Jamaica_, called _St. Jago_ by _Columbus_, and was altered by King _James_ II. it being a Compound of his Name, and _Ca_ an Island. The chief Town is called _St. Jago de la Vega_ (by the _English_, _Spanish-Town_.) Here the Governor resides; Courts are held, and the Assembly (chose as at _Barbados_) meet to enact Laws for the civil Government of the Island; which consequently draws the greatest Resort of People, on account either of Business or Pleasure.

It was built about 1590, plunder’d by some _English_ Privateers under one _Jackson_, in 1638, and in 1657 the whole Island was reduced by _Pen_ and _Venables_: The favourite Families of those Days, (_Bradshaws_, _Iretons_, _Axtells_,) I believe, sharing the Estates; so warm a Climate with Hurricanes, Earthquakes, and dry Belly-achs, was a due Preparation. This Town of _St. Jago_ is irregular, and low built, to secure it against Storms; even the Governor’s, or what they call the King’s House, is but a Ground Floor, and makes one side of a Quadrangle, with a Parade, where all Gentlemen meet to transact their Business; the Merchants and Factors for distant Planters, and the Officers civil and military, do together make a considerable Number, dividing in the Evenings to Parties of Dancing, Gaming, or Drinking, and generally to a publick House, to avoid the Obligation of Returns and Treats, very costly in this Country.

_Kingston_, at the upper End of _Port-Royal_ Harbour, the Place of lading and unlading almost all Ships to and from the Island; is in my eye, preferable to the former. The Streets are wide, and more regular, to face the Sea-Breezes, and the cross Streets at right Angles, that the Air may have as little Interruption as possible; a Convenience that cannot be too much meditated in so hot a Climate: for the Land-Breezes failing betimes in the Morning, you have it excessively hot; all Creatures languish and faint till the Sea one succeeds, which will not be till ten a clock, sometimes eleven, or later, and may be esteemed the Life of the Island, dispelling those impure Vapors, continually exhaled from the Mountains, and refreshing and rowsing the animal Nature, from Backgammon or Loitering, to Business.

The Harbour is spacious here, and the Ships lie _Land-locked_; but the Peninsula that covers them from the Sea being low and narrow, they are not so safe against Storms as one would imagine.

From hence to _Spanish-Town_, when called on any Law-suit or Business, they take Boat to _Passage-Fort_ on the other side, a small River at the Bottom of the Harbour, where are three or four Houses that furnish Passengers for the Journey (6 Miles) at 20_s._ a Coach, or 5_s._ a Horse, and are rarely without Customers; the Calls in Traffick are so frequent.

_Port-Royal_, which makes up with the former two, all the Towns of Note on the whole Island, is on the Starboard Entrance of the Harbour. The Road before it is reckoned good holding Ground, and fenced from Southerly Winds, by sandy Kays without. The Town it self stands on such a sandy Kay, not much above the Surface of the Water, and contains no more Ground than holds the Buildings, and the Fort contiguous with it on the outer Point; which, with a Line, or Rampart of Guns to the Sea, (together about 100) is their chief Defence. Under the Fort is a little Nook, or Bay, called _Chocolato Hole_, where we have a Hulk lies for cleaning Ships.

_Port-Royal_ has suffered remarkably every ten years, for thirty past. In 1692, an Earthquake sunk above half the Town; the Rubbish of those Buildings being still seen under Water, in the shallow Channel that now continues to divide it from the Main. In 1702, it was burnt down. In 1712, _August_ 28th, happened a dreadful Hurricane. And now, _August_ 28th, 1722, a more dreadful one, that besides the Damage it spread over most parts of the Island, did here in particular split the Castle, lay the Church and two thirds of the Town flat, burying three or four hundred People in the Ruins; but the Terror and Desolation may deserve a more particular Description.

_Forsan hæc olim meminisse juvabit._

_HURRICANES:_

The _West-Indians_ agree, that _August_ and _September_ is the Season to expect them. They are incredible Tempests of Wind, whose Fury, neither Ships, Masts, Trees, or Buildings can resist. They come a Day or two before the full or new Moon next the Autumnal Equinox, and give Warning by a preceding unusual Swell of Water. They are of no great Extent, but blow within a Chanel as it were, one Island feeling it, when the next (within 20 Leagues perhaps) has no Share; and are, if not peculiar, rarely met with out of the _West-Indies_.

The Cause, as guessed at, is Plenty of elastic Vapors on the _Terra Firma_ (whence they all blow) with which conspire at this time of year, the united Force of the Sun and Moon, to give their Explosion a greater Force; to this also may contribute, subterraneous Heats and Mountains: and if such different Effluvias as constitute the Matter of a Hurricane, can be supplied to the Chanel it blows in, _crescit eundo_.

This Opinion seems confirmed, _first_, from the Points of the Compass they blow on (S E. and S S E.) and never without side the Continent at Cape _Roque_; for that Length the uninterrupted _Trade-Wind_ is a Barrier, and from which these Storms, by the Position of Lands and Mountains, are necessarily a Deflection. _Second_, Æquinoctial Gales, we know, are every where observed to happen, and ascribed to the greater Agitation of Air, by Heat in a greater Orb; when therefore the Northern Suns have so long together been attracting, and at the same time chopping, and opening the Earth for a freer Emission of nitrous, sulphurous, and elastic Particles, no wonder the conjoined Forces of the Planets there, should now and then put them in execution.

The present Hurricane was a Week after our Arrival; began at eight in the Morning, two Days before the Change of the Moon, gave at least 48 Hours notice, by a noisy breaking of the Waves upon the Kays, very disproportioned to the Breeze, a continued Swell, without Reflux of the Water; and the two Nights preceding, prodigious Lightnings and Thunder; which all the old experienced Men foretold would be a Hurricane; or that one already had happened at no great distance.

I was ashore at _Port-Royal_, and found all the Pilots returned from the Windward part of the Island, (where they customarily attend the coming down of Ships,) and observing upon the unusual Intumescence of the Water, so great the Day before, and beat so high, that our Boats could not possibly put on shore at _Gun Kay_ to take the Men off that were set there, to the Number of twenty, for trimming up our Cask; themselves making Signals not to attempt it. Betimes next Morning, the Wind began in Flurrys at N E. and flew quickly round to S E. and S S E. where it continued the Stress of the Storm, bringing such Quantities of Water, that our little Island was overflowed 4 foot at least; so that what with the fierce driving of Shingles (wooden Staves used instead of Tiling upon their Houses) about our Ears, and the Water floating their Boats, empty Hogsheads, and Lumber about the Streets, those without doors were every Moment in danger of being knocked on the Head, or carried away by the Stream. Within it was worse, for the Waters sapping the Foundations, gave continual and just Apprehensions of the Houses falling, as in effect half of them did, and buried their Inhabitants: Nor indeed after the Storm had began, was it safe to open a Door, especially such as faced the Wind, lest it should carry the Roofs off; and escaping thence, there was no place of Retreat, we remaining in a very melancholly Scituation both from Wind and Water. _The Perils of false Brethren was nothing to it._

It may be worth notice, what became of the Purser in this common Danger; I was regardless at first, as suspecting more of Timidity in the People, till finding my self left alone Proprietor of a shaking old House, the Streets full of Water and Drift, with Shingles flying about like Arrows; I began to meditate a little more seriously upon my Safety, and would have compounded all my _Credit_ in the Victualling, my Hoops, and Bags, for one Acre (as _Gonzalo_ says in the _Tempest_) _of barren Ground, long Heath, or brown Furze_, to have trod dry upon.

Our Neighbours had retreated towards the Church, as the strongest Building, and highest Ground, which I was luckily too late to recover; but endeavouring to stem upwards for a safer Station, was taken into a House in the lower Street, with an old Woman wading in the same manner from her ruined Habitation.

We were no sooner in, but new Fears of this also falling, thrust us into the Yard (the Water then at eleven a clock, breast high) where we helped one another upon a low Brick-built Out-house, that being more out of the Wind, and surrounded with others, kept the Waters still. The unhappiness of those who suffered in stronger, was their facing the Wind, which brought the Sea upon them with violence. A Platform of one and twenty Guns and Mortars were drove some of them to the Market-place; the two Lines of Houses next the Sea, with the Church, were undermined and levelled with the Torrent, and in their ruin was our Safety; for altho’ we had a greater Depth, they were by such a Bank made motionless. The whole Rise of the Water was computed at 16 or 18 foot, very admirable at a Place where it is not ordinarily observed to flow above one or two.

At 5 in the Evening the Waters abated, and with so quick a Retreat as to leave the Streets dry before 6; when every one was congratulating his own Safety in Condolancies upon the Loss of their Friends. Of 50 Sail in this Harbour, only 4 Men-of-War and 2 Merchant-Ships rid it out, but with all their Masts and Booms blown away. All the Men we left at _Gun Kay_ were washed off and perished, except one _Indian_ that drove into Harbour upon a broken Gallows that had been there erected. Wrecks, and drowned Men were every where seen along shore; general Complaints of Loss at Land (least at _St. Jago_) which made it a melancholy Scene, and to finish the Misfortune, the Slackness of the Sea-Breezes, Calms, and Lightning, stagnating Waters, Broods of Insects thence, and a Shock or two of Earthquake that succeeded to the Hurricane, combined to spread a baneful Influence, and brought on a contagious Distemper, fatal for some Months through the Island. There being no Volcanos, the Earthquakes felt here are always after great Rains, on a parched Earth that admits their Penetration; and possibly nigher the Coast, as at _Port-Royal_, may be from the Sea in a long Process of time undermining in some manner a loose Earth, or finding in its deep Recesses new Caverns; or subterranean Heats working towards them, the dreadful Contest shocks.

In _December_ following, for we were detained some Months in the Repair of Damages received, another or two Shocks were felt; and at the End of the Month, as their proper Season, came on what they call _fiery Breezes_, strong Gales from Sea, that hold out often against the _Land-Breezes_, six or seven Days together; they are pre-signified by a hazy Horizon, and portentous of a wholesome Season.

_Norths_, are counter to these; they blow at uncertain Periods, strong and cool from the Mountains; the People shut their Doors, and button up close against it, and the Impurities the Air has been experienced to be loaded with from that Quarter. We had one of these Gales the latter End of _September_, and two Days after, quick Shocks of Thunder and Lightning, which split a Sloop’s Mast, and the _Flag-Staff_ at the Castle in pieces.

On _Christmas-Day_ we had a Meteor in this Horizon, that appeared to be a Ball of Fire, trailed along to a quarter of the Compass, from N N E. dropping Balls in the Track, that were suddenly extinguished. The same I believe we call Falling-Stars, unless larger, and a more transverse Descent. Astronomers suppose them sulphurous Bodies, set on fire by the Sun, tho’ eclipsed till he is set.

To Return to the Island: The _English_ Gentlemen are preferable to the Women; for the most part, of a genteel Education, and emulous in a Magnificence of Living, but true Republicans in the Disposition; a Stranger unconcerned in Business, very difficultly tasting any other Hospitality than his Landlady’s.

_Bitts_ of 7½_d_

Dinner 5
A Bottle of Small-Beer 1
A Bottle of Ale 4
Coffee _per_ Dish 1
A Quart of Rum Punch 4
Lodging _per_ Night 8

Ordinaries are filled with a Mixture of Land and Seafaring People, who have three or four sorts of Cookery at Dinner, and each a Pint of _Madeira_, with a Desart of Guavas, and other insipid or ill-tasted Fruit. One of our Dishes is frequently _Turtle_, much esteemed in this part of the World, and are supplied to the Market here by Sloops, and sold at a _Bitt_ a Pound, like other Flesh; now also increased to a tolerable Plenty, by the Planters having set apart Servants, Pens, and Pasture-Grounds, for rearing up all kinds of Domestick Animals, in which of late Years they have found their account; our Ships Companies being victualled here twice a Week with fresh Beef, during a stay of 6 Months; and an Hospital on shore provided with lighter Food.

_Bartering_ is the easiest way of Living on shore; or rather, no Man can live long without it: _Madeira_ Wines, refined Sugars, Linnens, and Necessaries of almost all kinds, selling from 100_l._ to 150 _per Cent._ Advance. Their Rum to you, 3 _Bitts_ _per_ Gallon; Sugars, from 4 to 7 _Dollars_ a hundred, both superior to _Barbados_. Other Commodities are Ginger, Piemento, Cocoa, Indigo, Cotton, Tortoise-shell, Dyers Wood, Cedar, Mohogany, and Manchineel-woods, and allow 35 _per Cent._ Advance on Money.

The _Cræoles_ (those born here) which are properly the Natives of the Island, the ancient ones being all extirpated, or fled the Cruelty of the _Spaniard_, before our Possession, are a spurious Race; the first Change by a Black and White, they call _Mulatto_; the second a _Mustee_, and the third a _Castee_; the Faces, like a Coat of Arms, discovering their Distinction. They are half _Negrish_ in their Manners, proceeding from the promiscuous and confined Conversation with their Relations, the Servants at the Plantations, and have a Language equally pleasant, a kind of Gypsy Gibberish, that runs smoothest in Swearing.

The _English_ Subjects are computed at 7 or 8000, the _Negroes_ at 80000; a Disproportion, that together with the Severity of their Patrons, renders the whole Colony unsafe; many hundreds of them have at different times run to the Mountains, where they associate and commit little Robberies upon the defenceless and nearest Plantations; and which I imagine they would not have done, but for the Cruelty of their Usage, because they subsist very hard and with Danger, by reason of Parties continually sending out by the Government against them, who have 5_l._ a Head for every one killed, and their Ears are a sufficient Warrant, for the next Justice to pay it; if the _Negro_ be brought in a Prisoner, he is tormented and burnt alive. Our latest Advices from _Jamaica_ concerning them is, that they have chose a King, daily increase, have some inaccessible Places of Retreat, and are suspected of being encouraged and supplied with Powder and Arms from _Cuba_.

The natural Remedy against this Evil, is an Increase of Hands. They have large Savannahs both on the North and South Sides, supposed formerly to have been Fields of _Indian_ Wheat, that afford good Pasturage, and breed up a great number of Cattle with a great Waste of Land, still left capable of large Improvements into Sugar Plantations or Tillage; but here lies the Objection to any further Encouragement. If the present Proprietors can export 11000 Hogsheads of Sugar annually, and the Price with that number is kept low at Market, whoever contributes towards making 11000 more, is depreciating his own Estate, lending a Hand to ruin himself. Tillage and Grazing, tho’ not employing the Land to 1/10 Part its Value in such Colonies, would yet interfere with the present Interest also, by lowering the Price of Provisions; wherefore the Security from such Augmentation of People (the Merchants being Judges) give place to Profit, a Neglect that must be reaped in the End, by Undertakers of more generous Sentiments. This convinces me, that altho’ Trade be Wealth and Power to a Nation, yet if it cannot be put under Restrictions, controlled by a superior and disinterested Power, that Excess and Irregularity will be an Oppression to many, and counter-balance the publick Advantages by increasing the Difficulties of Subsistence, and with it, Men’s Dissaffection.

Here is a distant Evil; the Cure of which lies in an Expence that no body likes; nor for such Dislike will ever blame himself in time of Danger. The Merchant and Planter think, if less Sugars were made, it would be better, provided (every one means) the bad Crop do not happen upon their own Plantations, and this for the same Reason, the _Dutch_ and other Companies burn their Spice, _India_ Goods, Tobacco, _&c._ _viz._ _to keep up a Price_; for rendering things common or cheap, or assisting towards the same Liberty, would border too much on the christian Precepts.

The Sloop-Trade hence to the _Spanish West-Indies_, under the Protection of our Men-of-War, has been reckoned at 200000_l._ _per Ann._ In 1702, Orders came to the Governor to hinder it, on account of a Treaty between us and the _Dutch_ for that purpose, who have since gone into it themselves from _Curisao_; and in 1716, a yet greater Obstruction was put, by the peculiar Privileges of the _Assiento_ Factors; however, they continue on, and complain of no other Illegalities, than the _Spanish_ Seizures, of late years very frequent, and together with the Decay of this Branch of Trade, their Want of _Spanish_ Wrecks, Privateering, and Fall of Sugars, makes the Island not so flourishing as in times past.

Sir _Nicholas Laws_ a _Cræole_, gives way as Governor, to the Duke of _Portland_, who arrived in that Quality (with his Dutchess and Family) about the middle of _January_ this Year. He had put in to _Barbadoes_ in the Passage, and met a generous Reception.

Here they have doubled the Salary, a Compliment to his Nobility, and that too little, it’s said, for his splendid and magnificent way of Living. His Table singly, has already rise the Price of Fowls, from 4 to 6 _Bitts_.

The _Jamaica_ Chronology.

_A. D._

_Columbus_ discovered the Island _May_ 3d. 1494
Sir _Anth. Shirley_ routed the Spaniard 1596
_Pen_ and _Venables_ did the same 1655
Geo. _Fortescue Sedwick Doyley_ 1660
Ld. _Windsor_, Governor 1662
Sir _Charles Littleton_ 1663
Sir _Thomas Muddiford_ 1664
Col. _Thomas Linch_, President 1671
Lord _Vaughan_, Governor 1675
E. of _Carlisle_ 1679
Sir _Henry Morgan_ 1680
Sir _Thomas Linch_ 1682
_Hender Molesworth_ 1684
D. of _Albemarle_ 1687
Sir _Francis Watson_, President 1688
E. of _Inchiquin_, Governor 1690
Earthquake _June_ 7th 1692
_John White_, President 1692
Col. _John Bowden_ 1692
Sir _William Beeston_, Governor 1693
_French_ landed at _Withy-Wood_ 1694
_William Selwin_, Governor 1702
Col. _Peter Beckford_, President 1703
Col. _Tho. Handaside_, Governor 1704
Ld. _Archibald Hamilton_ 1711
A Hurricane, _August_ 28th 1712
_Peter Haywood_, Governor 1716
Sir _Nicholas Laws_ 1718
A Hurricane _August_ 28th 1722
D. of _Portland_, Governor 1722

The _Pelican_ is a great Curiosity among their Birds, as the _Alligator_ in their watry Tribe; it is a common Water-Fowl, that is all day picking up his Living at Sea, and roosts at Night on high Rocks and Clifts, sitting with his Head to the Wind; his Body when skinned, is as large as an ordinary Goose, the Wings will extend to 7 or 8 feet, a short Tail, the Bill 14 Inches long, very hard, and increasing broader towards the End, where it crooks like a Parrot’s; their Necks are a foot and half, with a bay-colour’d Hair instead of Feathers on the back side of them, and from about half way there are membranous Bags or Pouches, which stretch thence to the Extremities of their under Bills, capable, when separated, of holding a couple of Pounds of Tobacco: in these they reserve their Prey when gorged with eating, and in these they are said to transport their young ones, when Danger or Instinct prompts them to change Places. They appear slow and heavy Birds flying, but have a piercing Sight to discern their Prey (the little fishy Fry below) from a considerable Height in Air, whence they fall like a Stone, and catch, or dive after them.

We killed three or four, and in opening their Bodies, met the same Observations, _viz._

1. They had double Ventricles, that together reached the length of their Bodies; to the Bottom of which, were connected the Small-Guts, about twice as thick as a Goose-quill.

2. In the first Ventricle or Craw, the Fish they had swallowed (70, 80, or 100) the Bigness of smaller Sprats, lay whole and unaltered.

3. In the lower Ventricle, those little Fish changing to a paler Colour, were nigh the _Fund_ of it mashed and macerated, and (what was principally meant by reciting any Observations) here also the Mass or Pulp _had an intimate Mixture of numbers of slender, lively Worms in it_; which to me, was a Matter of Speculation, for finding no such Insects in the small Fish above, which I suspected at first might have been their Prey, I concluded it here to be the common Accident of Concoction, a certain Consequence of Heat and Putrefaction, which are conquered by farther Digestion, and pass into insensibility again; for the Small-guts, after a little Distance from the Stomach, had none, or rather made part of a yellow, chylous Substance.

_Quære?_ whether other, or all Creatures have not such a Principle of Concoction, more or less discernible in some, than others, there; tho’ imperceptible, and differently shaped and coloured, as is the Nature of the Food swallowed, and the Strength and Heat of the Animal swallowing. _Vercellonius_ supposes the _Thyroide Gland_ in Man, to be a little _Nidus_ of verminous Eggs, generated there, and transmitted through subtle Ducts to the _Oesophagus_ and Stomach, to impart a vital Character to the Chyle.

I should have proceeded here to some other natural Curiosities, but omit it, as being already more accurately done by Sir _Hans_ _Sloan_, in 2 Vol. _4to_.

The _Weymouth_ and _Swallow_ having now fixed their Jury-masts, and finished their Repairs, weighed from _Port-Royal_ on _New-year’s Day_, anchoring out at the _Kays_, where we stayed till the 7th of _February_, and then left the Island.

There are two Passages used for returning hence to _Europe_; heavy Sailers, and Fleets, use the Gulph of _Florida_, because assisted by a constant Current to the Northward, (already spoke to;) lighter, and well-manned Ships, that called the _Windward Passage_; _First_, as the safest and shortest Navigation, all the Difficulty being, plying to the East End of _Jamaica_; for which, _Secondly_, there succeeds generally a Windward Current, on new or full Moons; or a Course of fiery Breezes, bringing in a fuller Sea, and therefore the Reflux more perceptible. _Thirdly_, keeping nigh shore, the Land-breezes sometimes favour the Design.

We chose this way in our Return home, and with half Masts worked to Windward of _Port Morant_, in six or seven Days, a Distance of 12 Leagues, where the Passage is in a manner gained, because the _Lee_ of _Hispaniola_ makes a smooth Water, and deflects the _Trade-Wind_ often, in Flaws to advantage. We indeed met Calms for three or four Days, but on the 17th, got sight of the little Island _Navasia_, which the _Jamaicans_ use in Boats, to kill _Guanas_, an amphibious Creature that breed in abundance at the Roots of old Trees, some of them 3 foot long, a _Lizard_ Shape, with sharp, black, and green Scales; the Flesh firm, white, and as Sailors say, makes good Broth.

The same Evening we anchored in _Donna Maria_ Bay, at the West End of _Hispaniola_, the usual Stop, especially of the King’s Ships in those Parts, for Wood and Water: We filled our Cask at a Valley, a Mile Southward of the two _brown Clifts_, very good Water, but on some Winds the Sea gets over the Bar. There are two other Places used, nigher those _Clifts_, and not so easily overflown. Here we bought some jerked Hog’s Flesh from two or three _French_ Hunters, belonging to _Petit Guavas_.

At leaving the Bay, a strong S W. Wind soon set us between the Capes _St. Nicholas_ and _Maize_; when we came into small Winds, and a Current in our favour, the old _Bahama Strait_, and Islands dispers’d here, showing _this_ wherever they contract the Waters, and lessens again, as we open to a larger Sea.

The 26th, nigh the Island of _Heneago_, recovered the true _Trade-Wind_, E. half N. The 28th, saw the Rocks called _Hogstys_ by our Observations in 21°° 38 something farther to the Northward than they are set down in the Charts. At Noon, came round _Aclin’s Kays_ (pretty high out of the Water) and before Night, made _Crooked_ or _Well-Island_. The last, and from which we took our Departure, was _Watlin’s Kay_, 24°° N. where we may farther remark, that the _Trade-Wind_ continued with us to the Latitude of 32°° but faint and weak, from 27°°; caused, I presume, from the Contest between the Variable and that, as I have already guessed the N E. and S E. _Trade_ does in other Places.

From 26 to 37°° Degrees of Latitude, (as far N. as _Virginia_) we found every Day large Quantities of what they call _Gulph-weed_, floating about the Ship, and lessening in proportion to the Distance; it is so called, from a Conviction of its being thrown from the Shoals of _Florida_; and by being found three or four hundred Leagues N E. a-trend with the Continent, argues I think, a Continuance (tho’ insensible) of some Current, or that it is longer, or more to the Northward than Southward in those Latitudes; and contrarily, in higher North Latitudes the Seas nigh the Continent have a Tendency Southward, demonstrated in those Islands of Ice, that drive all Summer from the North West, along the Coast of _Newfoundland_, even as far as _New-England_.

To the Northward of _Bermudas_, the Winds grew variable, and as we advanced, stronger; A never-failing Gale (N W. to S W.) blowing from the _American_ Coast at this Length and onward, to 60°° of Latitude, and tho’ not invariable like the _Trade_, yet a Constancy of ¾ or 4/5 of the year, shews it on the same Principle with them; Ours was a very hard Gale at N W. which put us to a reefed Fore-sail for a Fortnight, so great a Sea following, that we could not help dipping it up by Tuns sometimes at our Stern. We arrived in _England_, _April_, 1723.

_FINIS._

AN ABSTRACT Of the foregoing VOYAGE.

_A. Anchored, or arrived at._

_W. Weighed, or went from._

[Sidenote: 1720/1]

[Sidenote: _Feb. 5th_.]

_W._ From _Spithead_, about the same time with Commadore
_Matthews_, who commanded a Squadron of 4 Sail to _India_, on the
like Service; _the Suppression of Pyrates_.

[Sidenote: _Mar. 10._]

_A._ At _Madeira_. In our Approach to the Island (for 30 or 40
Leagues) met abundance of Sea-weed floating; here also we overtook
Commadore _Matthews_; two of his Squadron by hard Gales of Wind,
had damaged their Masts, and left him at Sea.

[Sidenote: _Mar. 18._]

_W._ _Thence_; and presently at Sea, found the _Trade-Wind fresh_.

[Sidenote: _27._]

We made the Cape _De Verd_ Islands, and on the 30th, parted with
the _Weymouth_, bound in with the Governor and Factors for _Gambia_
River. Meeting after this, Calms, or small Breezes, (common near
this Land) we took up several _Turtle_, who love sleeping on a
smooth Surface.

[Sidenote: 1721.]

[Sidenote: _April 7._]

_A._ At _Sierraleon_, the next noted River and Factory from
_Gambia_; and on the 18th, visited _Seignior Joseph_, a generous
and good-natur’d christian _Negro_, who had lately removed his
People some Miles up the River. With his old Buildings wooded our
Ship.

[Sidenote: _28._]

_W._ _Sierraleon_. The Winds 2 or 3 Points within the Land, always
favourable for sailing to the Westward, which is therefore called
_down the Coast_.

[Sidenote: _May 10._]

_A._ Off the Mouth of _Sesthos_ River; a Bar before it, but
commodious enough for watering. Here may be purchased considerable
Quantities of Rice; the River abounds with Fish; and you are
tolerably supplied with Goats and Fowls, or you imagine so from the
great Scarcity that appears at most other Places, from _Sierraleon_
to _Whydah_.

[Sidenote: _May 18._]

_W._ _Thence_, and sailed several Days along the Coast, low like
_Holland_, anchoring now and then. The 30th, came before _Bassam_
or _Bassau_. The 31st, before Assinee, passing by that unfathomable
Place called the _Bottomless Pit_[38]; the Natives every where
appearing shy of Correspondence, until we came upon the Gold Coast.

[Sidenote: _June 2._]

_A._ _Cape Appollonia_, the Land grows higher here, and the Natives
more alert and prompt at Trade.

[Sidenote: _6._]

_A._ _Axim_, the first _European_ Factory, belonging to the _Dutch_.

[Sidenote: _7._]

_A._ Cape _Tres Puntas_; the Fort formerly was the
_Brandenburghers_, who deserting it, it’s now in the possession
of a _Negro_, called _John Conny_. Ships constantly stop here
to water, as the most convenient Place for taking in any large
Quantity, and pay, each Ship, an Ounce of Gold for the Privilege.

[Sidenote: _14._]

_W._ _Thence_, and anchored the 15th at _Dixcove_, an _English_
Factory. This, _Succonda_, _Anamaboo_, and others, tho’ called
Factories, are the Residence only of two or three People from the
principal one at Cape _Corso_, who have Commission over and above
their Salary, for what Trade they transact.

[Sidenote: _16._]

_W._ _Dixcove_, and anchored next Day before _Cape Corso Castle_,
our _African_ Company’s chief Fort; the Residence of their
Governor, stiled _Director General_; two Merchants, a Secretary,
Chaplain, Surgeon, Factors, Writers, Artificers, and a Company of
Soldiers; with Buildings and Conveniencies inside, for themselves
or Slaves.

[Sidenote: _June 26._]

_A._ _Anamaboo_ (just below it) a noted Place of stopping, for all
our Windward trading Ships, to compleat their Slave Cargoes.

[Sidenote: _28._]

_A._ and _W._ _Montford_; the 30th, _Barkee_, and then _Shallo_.
Through the whole from _Sierraleon_, it may be observed, that
Wood, Candles, or any other Ships Necessaries are hard to get; the
former, not from a Want in the Country (it being over-run) but
an impassable Beach, where there is no navigable River, and the
Diffidence of the _Negroes_, where it might be best supplied; and
the other, because Merchant-Ships do not expect a Trade of that
sort, and therefore unprovided.

[Sidenote: _July 4._]

_A._ _Whydah._ The whole Coast runs in a strait Line (without
Gulphs or Bays) is thick set with Trees, a Tendency of the Sea with
the Wind, and every where a very rough and turbulent Beach.

[Sidenote: _20._]

_W._ _Whydah_, and arrived the 28th at the Island of _Princes_,
belonging to the _Portuguese_. In our Approach, saw every Day
abundance of Whale, Thresher, and Petrel.——Cleaned our Ships,
heaving down by one another, but became exceeding sickly by the
Fatigue, each burying three and four Men a Day, for six Weeks
together.

[Sidenote: _Sep. 20._]

_W_ _Princes_, both having purchased their Anchors with difficulty.

[Sidenote: _28._]

_A_ _St. Thomas’s_, another _Portuguese_ Island (the principal of
three) on this Coast, abounding with fresh Provisions, especially
Hogs and Fowls, exchanged like other Places of Poverty, at very
easy Rates.

[Sidenote: _Oct. 5._]

_W_ _Hence_, and stretched with our Starboard Tacks to the
Westward, designing to reach as far to Windward as possible, that
if any Pyrates should be on the Coast, we might have them under our
Lee. The 20th we fell in with _Cape Apollonia_, went from thence
the 23d, and anchored at _Axim_.

[Sidenote: _24._]

_W_ _Axim_, and came to Cape _3 Points_, where neglecting to pay
_John Conny_ his Duties for Water, he _panyarr’d_ some of our Men,
till satisfied.

[Sidenote: _30._]

Left Cape _3 Points_, and arrived next Day in Cape _Corso_ Road again; it being every where confirmed to us in this Return down, that the Pyrates in _August_ last (the time we were at _Princes_) had committed great Ravages upon the Merchant Ships.

[Sidenote: _Nov. 10._]

_W._ Cape _Corso_ Road, leaving the _Weymouth_, (now too disabled
to weigh her Anchor,) and plying to Windward, fell in with
_Succonda_ the 15th, repeating our Visits in a Month’s Cruise, to
_Dixcove, cquedah_, Cape _3 Points_, _Axim_, Cape _Apollonia_,
_Assinee_, _Bassam_, _Jaque a Jaques_, &c. our Purpose in it being
to secure Trade, air a sickly Ship, be in the way of Intelligence,
and impress Men from the Merchant-Ships. Many prevented this
indeed, by escaping to us themselves from ill Treatment (they said)
bad or short Diet; but then, as more again on the same Pretence
took on with the Pyrates, it shews Caprice and Humour to be the
principal Point that determines Seamen to this or that Service.

[Sidenote: 1721/2]

[Sidenote: _Jan. 6._]