Chapter I: Foreword

This is not a preface but merely a few words to state that in writing these pages I have in no way tried to criticize the French administration or to discuss the Arab from any point of view but that of a spectator.

I have no political feelings, few ambitions beyond living simply and far away from the world, and if this work exists at all, it is because I have wished that people should know Algeria as it really is.

Once upon a time I had great ideas about worldly position and the sound of long titles; I believed that greatness was to be achieved in the capitals of Europe or on the battle-fields, but I know now that this is not so. Worldly positions and great titles are the weary outcome of much money laboriously reaped, and the heroes of battle-fields pass unnoticed in the street.

Southern Algeria, with all its charm, with all its capricious moods, has, like some lovely woman, taken me in its arms and I am doubtful if it will ever let me go.

Let this book therefore be read in the spirit in which it has been written by one who, having seen life in many parts of the globe, has found peace and solution to all worldly difficulties among the rustling palm-trees and broad expanses of the Sahara.

I must here take the opportunity of thanking certain kind friends who have helped me in my work, notably:

Monsieur Jean Causeret, Secrétaire Général du Gouvernement Général, who has supplied me with maps, Dr. Alfred S. Gubb, the well-known English physician in Algiers, the Rev. Lucius Fry, British Chaplain in Algiers, and Mrs. Clare Sheridan, who have all lent me photos appearing in these pages. My thanks are also due to Mrs. Welthin Winlo, whose untiring secretarial work has helped me to prepare this work, to Miss Una Thomas who has helped me with the proofs, and to Mr. Julian Sampson, who has not only supplied me with photographs, but who has also brought his expert knowledge to bear in the selecting of suitable illustrations.

LAGHOUAT,
_November_, 1926.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
I The Object of the Book 13
II A Little Geography 17
III A Little History 22
IV The French Conquest of Algeria 29
V The Inhabitants To-Day 35
VI French Administration of Algeria 40
VII Arab Administration 48
VIII Marabouts 57
IX The Arab Character 64
X Life among the Arabs 72
XI Arab Women 80
XII Arab Love and the Women of the Reserved Quarter 87
XIII Arab Music and Dancing 94
XIV Religion 101
XV Religious Observances 109
XVI “Mektoub” and Other Superstitions 116
XVII Abd-El-Kader 122
XVIII Arab Education 128
XIX Sport among the Arabs 133
XX The Nomads 140
XXI Sheep-Breeding 146
XXII Other Products 152
XXIII Algiers 158
XXIV Two Excursions 164
XXV Voyage 170
XXVI Bou Saada 176
XXVII The First Glimpse of the Sahara 182
XXVIII The Oasis of Laghouat 187
XXIX The Mzab 194
XXX Ghardaia and Adjoining Towns 201
XXXI Guerrera and the Sand Desert 208
XXXII Biskra 213
XXXIII Timgad 219
XXXIV Djemila the Desolate 226
XXXV Constantine to the Coast 232
XXXVI Kebylie 239
XXXVII Traveling Off the Beaten Track 246
XXXVIII Few Sketches of Arab Life 252
XXXIX A Last Glimpse of the Arab 295
Index 303

ALGERIA FROM WITHIN