Chapter IX: Part 9

This dreadful beast, which has a head and claws like those of a tiger, which resembles a mastiff in size, has no tail, and possesses singular ferocity, and equal swiftness, is called by the Guaranies aò, a word signifying clothing, but given to this beast because, from its wool, the Guaranies formerly wove themselves garments. They wander gregariously in pools, marshy places, or woods far from the noise of men. But if one of them chance to meet an Indian hunting, his life is as good as gone, unless he can avoid its cruel fangs, by a very swift flight, or by ascending a tree; though when seated on the very highest boughs he cannot be perfectly secure, for as these ferocious animals are incapable of climbing a tree, they will tear it up by the roots with their claws, and when it falls seize hold of their prey. These things the Indians and Spaniards all agree in relating and believing. For my part, after so many journeys on foot, and on horseback, after traversing so many of the woods, plains and marshes of Paraguay, I never saw even the shadow of such a beast. From which I infer that they cannot be very numerous, nor common to the whole province. Would that they were banished from every part of Paraguay! That ferocious animal which writers call _famacosio_, most of us think to differ from the aò in name only.

THE CAPIIGUÁRA, OR WATER-PIG.

The water-pig inhabits the larger rivers and streams, but not the very largest, although, as it feeds upon grass, it comes out to pasture in the neighbouring plains, not without committing great depredations in the fields. When full grown it resembles a pig of two years old in size, and almost in appearance, except in its vast round head, and the whiskers on its upper lip, which are similar to those of a cat. It has short ears, large, black eyes, a very wide mouth, but rather narrow lips, dusky and very short hair, and no tail. Besides two long, curved tusks, which project from its mouth, it is armed with forty-eight teeth, plain at the top, but hollow beneath. Its feet are like those of a pig; the front ones have four nails, the hind only three. These beasts swim or walk in company, and cross rivers with surprizing expedition. By night they bray like asses, and sometimes alarm travellers unacquainted with America. Their flesh is very like pork, but as it has a fishy taste, is eaten by none but the Indians; though when young they are reckoned a dainty by Europeans even. Capiiguáras may be wounded without difficulty, either with a spear, an arrow, or a ball, but it requires great good fortune to catch them; for on receiving a wound, as they are excellent swimmers and divers, they immediately hide themselves under water, and extract the arrow or spear which is sticking in their flesh. The Abipones, who frequently employ themselves in hunting these animals, after wounding a pig, swim after it and overtake it in the water. The skin of the capiiguára is very thick, and were it properly dressed, would be useful in various ways.

THE OTTER.

Otters swarm in the lakes and rivers of Paraguay. If I mistake not, they differ from those of Europe in no other respect than in being somewhat smaller. They are most numerous in the Abiponian territories, and those adjacent to the cities of Sta. Fè, Cordoba, and Corrientes. In the distant hordes of the Mocobios and Abipones, towards the north, there are no otters, or very few at least. The savages make use of them in various ways. They feed upon their flesh, and make cloaks of their skins.

When the lakes and rivers are almost exhausted by a long drought, the Abipones go out to hunt otters. If the water is shallow enough to ford, hounds are sent forwards, and many hundreds killed with stakes in one day, though they are extremely apt to bite, and have very sharp teeth, on which account, in killing them, both the Indians and their dogs often receive wounds which are not cured in a few days.

THE YGUANÀ.

The yguanà, an animal of the lizard kind, closely resembles the dragon which St. George is represented overthrowing. It is sometimes more than an ell long. Its belly is large, its skin clothed with green, white, and yellow scales, elegantly varied with red. From the head to the extremity of the tail, the spine of the back is surmounted by a denticulated fin. Its thick and very long tail is marked with kinds of black rings, intermixed with red ones, and ends in a very slender point. It is furnished with large black eyes, a nose spreading as wide as the lips, short teeth, a cloven tongue, which, when irritated, it moves very quickly, four feet, and lower down five nails, wide like the sole of the foot, and covered with a thin web, which assists it in swimming; for it sometimes swims in the water, sometimes climbs trees, and sometimes lurks for a long time in corners of houses, being very patient of hunger. It never does harm to any one. It feeds upon honey, little birds' eggs, oranges, sweet citrons, and other fruits. It is incredibly tenacious of life, for after being stripped of its skin, and having received frequent wounds on the head, it will not die, till its head be severed from its body. Though the horrible form of the yguanà inspires all beholders with terror, yet its extremely white flesh delights the palates of many. Deceived by my companion, I ate it for fish, and at another time for chicken, and pronounced it exceedingly savoury. But I never could prevail upon myself knowingly to taste the yguanà, so great was the horror which I conceived of its external appearance. The yguanà lays about forty eggs in as many days; they are round, about the size of a walnut, and of a white or yellowish hue, like hens' eggs. Some people eat them fried. As they abound in their own native fat, water is poured on them instead of oil or butter. They say that little stones are sometimes found in the head of the yguanà, which, when ground to powder, and drunk with a wholesome potion, or simply applied to the body, diminish or remove stone in the kidneys. Others affirm that a stone, an ounce in weight, is found in some other part of this animal's body, which, when reduced to powder, and drunk in tepid water, removes obstructions of the bladder. I never saw any stones of this kind—never tried their efficacy. Besides this, other kinds of lizards, of different forms and colours, are seen in Paraguay, but I have nothing remarkable to relate of them. The chameleon is very seldom seen here. I once saw one jump hastily out of a boat which lay on the ground near the shore, but had not time to examine it closely.

RIVER-WOLVES.

Many rivers, and even lesser streams, produce two kinds of wolves, a larger, and a smaller. Sometimes the Abiponian women tame the whelps at home, suckling them like their own children. They also do the same kind office for puppies, although no wife can suckle another person's child without greatly offending her husband, and running the risk of being divorced. These wolves are killed with various weapons by the Abipones, who, though their flesh is not fit for food, make use of their skins, which are of a dusky colour, but yellow at intervals, with extremely soft hair.

SEALS.

Seals are remarkable for the size of their bodies, and are very numerous in the river Plata, especially at the mouth by which it enters the sea. They have more fat than flesh, so that hunger alone could induce me to taste them. But their skin, of an elegant yellow colour, marked with a black line on the back, and covered with very soft hair, is much prized by Europeans. Our companions, who, at the command of King Philip the Fifth, sailed to the shores of Magellan, record that seals in that place often exceed a bullock two years old in size; that they often strive with one another on the sandy shore, lifting up their bodies as straight as a pillar, and that many geographers have erred in saying that these seals have a mane, and in giving them the name of sea-lions. This is no affair of mine; let others decide the point. I think the dispute is all about a name.

FROGS AND TOADS.

At the end of the amphibious crew come frogs and toads, which swarm in all the rivers, lakes, and marshes, and even the very plains of Paraguay. But what is their use, what their occupation? They go on singing their old complaint in the mud, though in Paraguay they have nothing to complain of; for not being reckoned amongst the number of eatables, and being entirely excluded from the kitchen, they are neither desired nor attacked, and consequently live in the completest security. To destroy the race of frogs, I had long wished that the voracious Indians would take it into their heads to eat them, for whenever we slept in the open air by the side of a river or lake, we were exceedingly annoyed by their croaking. Their voice, as well as colour, is extremely various, for some utter a gentle, clear, sharp sound, others, perhaps the more aged ones, a rough, hoarse, disagreeable croaking. Of toads, horse-leeches, and other insects of that description, we shall speak in another place.

BIRDS.

Paraguay has scarcely any European bird, except the swallow, but it abounds in native ones, foreign to Europe. The former excel in the sweetness of their voice, the latter in the elegance of their plumage. Out of many I will describe a few.

THE HUMMING BIRD.

The most curious is a bird, which is the smallest, and at the same time the most beautiful of all the winged tribe. The Spaniards have with justice named it picaflor, for it plucks the flowers out of which it sucks juice like a bee. It charms the eye with the exquisite beauty of its colour and plumage. The whole of its little body is scarce bigger than an olive or a nutmeg. Its bill is very long, but slenderer than a needle, its eyes extremely lively, and its tongue broad, but thinner than a silken thread. It sometimes utters a shrill whistle which can hardly be heard. In the country, in a chapel that had long been deserted, I found the nest of one of these birds; scarce bigger than a common walnut, it hung suspended by a horse-hair from two corners of the wall, and in it the mother was then sitting upon two little eggs. Its feathers are sometimes of a bright green, sometimes (for there are nine different species of them in Paraguay) of a blue, sometimes of a fiery red colour; but all seem clothed with most refulgent gold. That brilliant hue which shines in the expanded tail of a peacock, or in a drake's neck, is dull in comparison with the golden resplendence of this little bird. In sucking juice from flowers it does not stand upon its feet, but seems to hang in the air, and is always borne swiftly along, with its feathers suspended and tremulous. Some have caught birds of this kind and brought them home, but though carefully fed upon melted sugar, they never lived more than four days, being always used to the nectar of flowers. With their feathers, which nature has painted with the most exquisite colours, and tinged with gold, the Peruvian Indians are said to have adorned such elegant little images, that you would have sworn them to be formed by the pencil of an artist, and gilded.

THE CONDÒR VULTURE.

From the least of birds, let us proceed to the largest. The condòr, a bird of the hawk species, frequently inhabits the very highest summits of the Tucuman and other mountains, whence it flies down to the vallies beneath to prey upon cattle. It is of an almost incredible magnitude; when its wings are expanded, it measures ten feet, (or, according to some, sixteen,) from the extremity of one wing to that of the other. The hollow part of the quill is equal to a man's finger in width. This bird is furnished with talons like those of a cock, and its beak is so strong and pointed, that it can pierce a bull's hide. It is black, sprinkled here and there with white feathers. On its head it has a little crest, like that of a cock, but not so denticulated. It is possessed of amazing strength, and is formidable to all animals, but particularly to new-born calves and foals; for it tears out their eyes with its beak, and then kills and eats them. It is said to carry away lambs in the air. The devastation these birds daily commit amongst the herds and flocks exceeds belief. Several of them always fly together to rapine, and being rendered formidable by their numbers, do not scruple to attack even full grown beasts. When satiated and loaded with meat they are unable to fly back again, and try to relieve their stomachs by vomiting, that they may be lighter and more expeditious in flying. The Spaniards who guarded the estates, having frequently observed this circumstance, place in the way of the condòrs beef sprinkled with plenty of salt, which they eagerly devour, but not being able to vomit, are rendered incapable of flying, and slain with sticks and stones whilst coursing up and down the plain. At other times the condòrs, crowding together, make a tremendous noise by clapping their enormous wings, to the terror of all that hear them. They soar so high in the air as to seem from below no bigger than sparrows.

THE EMU.[1]

The emu, a bird extremely common in Paraguay, is so well known in Europe as to render a description of its figure unnecessary. I will however briefly relate its peculiarities, which no one will dislike to be made acquainted with.

The emu is ranked amongst birds, because it is winged, though it makes use of its wings, which are too weak for the weight of so large a body, not to fly with, but to assist itself in walking, like sails and oars, especially when the wind blows in a favourable direction, for when it is contrary they retard its course. To pursue this bird is extremely difficult, for it not only runs with the utmost swiftness, but escapes by turning and winding about. Emus, which fly the very shadow of a man, are seldom caught by persons on foot, unless they be in such numbers as to surround these birds, and take them as it were in the toils. When standing upright, they reach to the head of the tallest man, which is owing to the length of their legs and neck, for their head is very small. They have little eyes overshadowed with large eyebrows. Their body is equal to that of a lamb in weight. Their flesh is much sought and praised by the Indians, and is generally very fat. The Spaniards, neglecting the rest of the flesh, eagerly devour the wings, and think them the best part of the emu. I have eaten them myself sometimes, but a nausea which they created in my stomach gave me a disgust to that food.

The Abipones make themselves bags, purses, and cushions of emus' skins. The skin which covers the rump they use for little hats. Great and various are the uses of their feathers: for of them are made fly-flaps, fans, and skreens, which both the better sort of Spaniards, and the Abiponian women, in riding, place before the sun, that their faces may not be tanned with the heat. To the hinder part of their saddles, the Indians of every nation fasten the longer emu feathers, which, moving as the horse moves, serve to drive away gad-flies, hornets, and gnats. All the female emus of one neighbourhood deposit their eggs in one place, and the chickens are hatched by the sun's heat, without any other care. The young ones are fed by the males, who break the eggs that are still full, and employ them in feeding the chickens already hatched—thus brothers unborn are devoured by those that have but just seen the light. Sometimes more than sixty or a hundred eggs are found in the same nest, and are eaten both by Spaniards and Indians, either fried or boiled, but are digested slowly and with difficulty if wine be not added to the repast. They often afforded me a sumptuous banquet in travelling through deserts. One egg is enough to satisfy many persons, for the contents of thirty hens' eggs may be poured into the shell of one emu's egg. The shell of the emu's egg is strong, and may be used for various purposes as a potter's vessel. Emus feed on grass, wheat, fruits, or any trash they meet with; but if they imprudently swallow iron or bone, they afterward void it quite undigested, and in no way altered. When taken young they are easily tamed, and walk up and down the streets or yards, like dogs and hens, suffer children to play with them without fear, and never run away, though the plain be close by, and in sight. There is scarcely any Indian town in which you do not see tame emus of this kind. You must know, moreover, that emus differ in size and habits, in different tracts of land: for those that inhabit the plains of Buenos-Ayres and Tucuman, are larger, and have black, white, and grey feathers: those near to the straits of Magellan are smaller and more beautiful; for their white feathers are tipped with black at the extremity, and their black ones, in like manner, terminate in white, and make excellent ornaments for the hats and helmets of Europeans. The higher orders amongst the Spaniards, also, greatly prize skreens made of these feathers.

Footnote 1:

The American ostrich differs a little from the African.

THE TUNCÀ.

The tuncà is remarkable on account of its bill, which is as long as its whole body, is as light as paper, of a citron colour, marked at the extremity with a red line, and a black spot, and denticulated at the edges. It has a very long tongue, and rather large eyes, surrounded by a circle of green, and another larger one of yellow. Its feathers are, for the most part, black, except on the neck, which is white, and the tail, which is beautifully red at the extremity; but some are blue instead of black. It is about the size of a pigeon. The tuncà is called by some, the preacher bird, I believe on account of the loudness of its voice. You will scarce ever see this bird in company with any other. It feeds on the ripe seeds of the tree caà, but as those seeds are too glutinous to be digested, it voids them whole, and they produce new trees, and in time woods, to the great profit of the inhabitants. I knew a Yaaucaniga Abipon, who, when going to fight, always tied the huge beak of a tuncà to his nose, in order to render himself more terrible to the enemy.

THE CARDINAL.

Cardinals are remarkable for the extreme sweetness of their song, and, in my opinion, would far exceed the canary birds of our country, were they able to trill like them. From the shining purple of their feathers they have obtained the name of cardinals. The top of the head alone is adorned with a small black crest, like a little hat. They are about the size of a linnet. They fly in crowds to the most barren fields, where there are more thistles than grass, and are easily caught by boys, who will give you four or five cardinals in exchange for a single needle, in the city of Corrientes. I have seen cardinals resembling the rest in other respects, but much larger, being equal in size to a starling.

THE CHOPÌ.

The chopì, which is about the size of a swallow, and has dusky feathers, but if shone upon by the sun, of a blue colour, goes in flocks like European sparrows, flies up and down houses, and wheat fields, and delights the ear with its pleasing song. Some very small birds, the names of which I am unacquainted with, sing sweetly in gardens, but when taken they cannot long bear the confinement of a cage.

THE QUÎRAPÙ.

The quîrapù, a Guarany word, signifying the tinkling bird, so called because its voice is like the sound of a little bell, resembles a pigeon. It is of a grey colour, has very beautiful eyes, a large head, and a green throat, which is inflated when the bird cries. It never stays long in one place, but passes quickly from tree to tree; on which account it is very seldom, and with great difficulty, caught. Other birds of the same name, (quîrapù miri,) but smaller, and of a white colour mixed with dusky, fly in companies, and whilst one utters loud sounds, all the rest are silent.

THE TIÑINI.

The bird tiñini imitates the human voice, particularly at night, and not unfrequently alarms strangers sleeping in a wood, who take it for some enemy or spy.

THE TIJERAS.

This bird, which is smaller than our sparrow, and entirely white, is called by the Spaniards tijeras, the scissors, because it sometimes opens and shuts its tail, which consists of two long and very white feathers, like a pair of scissors.

VARIOUS KINDS OF WILD DOVES.

The apicazù, yeruti, and other kinds of wild doves, wander about in flocks, doing great mischief to fields and gardens, especially to grapes. From their wonderful variety of colours they are pleasing to the eye, but still more so to the palate, when boiled or roasted.

THE IÑAMBÙ.

This bird inhabits every part of the plain country. In some respects it resembles a partridge, in others a quail. Its flesh is extremely white and well tasted, but very dry. You will seldom see a stupider bird, or one more easily and more frequently caught. A man on horseback sometimes goes round and round it, and whilst the bird goes round in like manner, knocks it down with the long piece of leather, which they use for a bridle, or with a slender reed. Numbers are daily brought to the city of Buenos-Ayres, and sold at a very low price.

MARTINETES AND GALLINETAS.

There are other birds also, thought to be of the partridge kind, which are larger than a common hen, adorned with a variety of colours, and a beautiful crest, and of an agreeable savour.

DIFFERENT KINDS OF PHEASANTS.

Birds are found in Paraguay which, in some respects, resemble European pheasants. The commonest species is the yacù. This bird is equal in size to a full grown hen; its feathers are of a very black colour, and its flesh extremely well tasted. It mostly frequents woods near a river or lake. At sun-set or sun-rise, you may find a number of them on one tree. When one is brought down by a gun, the rest do not fly away, but only recede a little farther on the bough which they are sitting upon, and there remain till they are all killed by repeated firings. This I have often witnessed, and wondered much that the birds were neither scared by the report of the gun, nor impelled to flight by the deaths of their companions.

THE MBITUÙ.

In the larger class of pheasants, we may with justice place the mbituù, a bird which almost resembles a turkey-cock. Its very black feathers are white at the extremity, but the belly is varied with a colour peculiar to partridges. On the top of its head it has a crest composed of black and white feathers, as soft as silk, which it erects when angry. It is armed with a long, hooked, and blackish beak. Its tail is long and generally expanded. Its beautiful head is adorned with large bright black eyes. Its very long legs are supported on four claws like those of a hen. Its tender flesh is universally commended, and as it is so desirable for the table, I wish it were more commonly met with in the woods by the Indian huntsmen.

VARIOUS KINDS OF PARROTS.

The variety and multitude of parrots I might almost call innumerable. Every different species differs distinctly in form, voice, and plumage. Those with which I am best acquainted are the paracauteè, the paracaubaỹ, the iribaya, the aruaỹ, the tuî, the mbaracana, the quaà, or quacamayo, the caninde, the catita, or kikilk; and others whose names have slipped my memory. I will relate what is most remarkable respecting those which I know most of. The paracauteè signifies the true and legitimate parrot, which excels the rest in sense and docility, and can imitate the sounds of men and beasts with greatest ease and success. It is equal in size to a young pigeon: its feathers are green, but yellow, red, and blue on the head, wings, and tail. I had in my possession a bird of this kind, which I called Don Pedro, and which articulately pronounced many words, and even whole sentences, in the Spanish, Guarany, and Abiponian languages, and learnt to sing a little Spanish song admirably. Moreover he could imitate violent coughing, laughing, weeping, barking, and an hundred other things so dexterously that you would have sworn it was a man you heard. Whenever I travelled on foot or on horseback, he sat upon my shoulder, always chatty, always playful. When tired of his noise or his weight, I gave him to one of the Indians to carry—he angrily bit the man's ear, and flew back to me. He laughed very loud for a long time at an old Indian woman, whom we met riding on an ass. Though he reposed all day long on my shoulder, yet about sun-set, like fowls, he felt a desire for rest, began to grow angry, and, by clapping his wings, and repeatedly biting my ear, admonished me to stop the journey. Next day when I mounted my horse again, he was extremely delighted, and did nothing but sing and laugh. When I stayed in the town, he sometimes walked up and down a very long rope suspended from two pillars outside the house. When I entered the dining-room he would fly after me, and whilst we were dining, ran about the table, and always flew angrily to bite the Indian who came to take away the rest of the food with the dishes. He tasted, snatched, and swallowed any food that he could lay hold of. He sometimes walked about the court-yard, rubbing and sharpening his beak in the sand, which he often swallowed by way of medicine. Seeing me caress a smaller parrot of another species, filled with envy he attempted to pierce the bird with his beak; but softened by a little coaxing, he not only suffered it to sleep under his wings, but ever afterwards treated it as a pupil, or rather as a son. What the older bird pronounced with a deep voice, the younger repeated in a slenderer one. The Guaranies tie all their tame parrots, by one foot, to a long pole, to prevent them from flying away. These chains did not please me: I therefore clipped one wing of my parrots a little to prevent them from flying long, or far away, leaving them the full liberty of their legs. This Don Pedro of mine, after continuing many years faithful, took advantage of the circumstance of his feathers having grown a little too much, to fly away and disappear. He was sought by many, but without success. At the end of three days he saw me passing through a wood, and knew me instantly. Without delay he crept swiftly along the boughs by the help of his beak and claws, and flew to my shoulder, repeating the words Don Pedro. But though he lavished unbounded caresses on me, he atoned for this desertion by the mutilation of his feathers. I often wondered to hear this parrot repeat the sentences that he knew so opportunely, as if he understood the meaning of them; for when he was hungry, he cried _pobre Don Pedro_, poor Don Pedro, in a tone calculated to excite compassion, repeating those words again and again, till eatable roots, bread, or some other food was given him. These particulars, relative to my parrot, the memory of which is still dear to me, I have, perhaps with too much prolixity, related, in order to show you how great is the power of education, even upon brute animals. Female parrots learn to imitate human speech quicker and better than the males. My companion had one which could repeat the Lord's Prayer in the Guarany tongue. I could have fancied I heard a child praying. This circumstance is very surprizing, as we find that the females of other birds are almost mute. I never could understand how parrots, brought by Englishmen or Dutchmen from the remotest parts of Asia, Africa, or America, after travelling about so many months, or years perhaps, learn to pronounce sentences either in German or French, or any other language, when in Paraguay it is thought impossible to teach them to speak, unless they be brought unfledged from the nest; for when full grown we have found them quite indocile. They are most conveniently taught at night, or in a dark room, where no object presents itself to their eyes, no sound to their ears: though, whilst walking on their rope, or on a pole, in the court-yard, they insensibly learn to imitate dogs barking, horses neighing, cows lowing, old men coughing, boys whistling, laughing, or crying—being extremely attentive to every thing. By long experience I have found that parrots of every kind will learn better and more willingly from women and children, whose voices are sweeter, than from men.

The paracaubaỹ is of the same size and form as the paracauteè; but its feathers are almost all green, with but a very sparing admixture of blue ones, and perhaps a little yellow, or red feather here and there on its head, wings, and tail. These birds babble some unintelligible stuff, but never utter an articulate sound.

The aruaỹ, which is somewhat smaller than the former, is of a most lovely shape, adorned with red, yellow, and bright green feathers, and capable of talking a great deal, if instructed.

The iribaya, which scarce exceeds a European linnet in size, is sparingly besprent with a few dark green, red, and blue feathers, and is distinguished from the rest by a white circle round the eyes. Though of a very lively temper, garrulous, restless, and apt to bite, it is unable to learn to talk, and has a harsh voice. Some woods abound to such a degree in these birds, that no other kind of parrot can be seen there.

The mbaracanà, and others of the same kind that are entirely green, being devoid of all beauty and docility, are seldom taught by the Indians. The tuỹs are divided into many species. The greenness of their plumage is praised by every body. The least of them does not exceed a man's little finger in length; they are extremely merry, and more apt to bite than any of the rest.

The largest and most beautiful of all the parrots which Paraguay produces, are the quaà, or quacamayo, and the caninde; the latter of which is adorned in every part with feathers of a Prussian blue, and a dark yellow colour; the former with very red and dark blue ones. Their tail is composed of feathers a cubit in length. They are alike in form and size, in which they far exceed a common cock. Their beak is so strong that it would pierce the hard bark of an almond tree at one stroke; you must be cautious, therefore, in handling them. At home they are tamed sooner than you would believe it possible. In the town of St. Joachim I had in my possession some very gentle quaàs and canindes. They walked every day about the yard, and would never suffer themselves to be separated, but always kept company together, and were always quarrelling, so that you might apply to them the words of the poet, _Nec tecum possum vivere, nec sine te_. They never learn to speak any thing but their own name, which they articulately and clamorously pronounce with a harsh voice. I had often wished to have an unfledged caninde brought me from the nest, feeling quite sure that I should be able to teach it to speak; but these wishes were vain; for the old Indians who were born in the woods, and had long dwelt there, all replied with one accord, God, the Creator of all things, alone knows where the caninde builds its nest. For it is thought to hide its offspring in the hidden recesses of the wood, and from thence, when they are advanced in age, to fly with them to the open plains. Though so many kinds of parrots are exposed for sale at the shops of Lisbon, or are exhibited in the gardens of the chief people there, yet the caninde, which yields to none of the parrot kind in beauty, is never to be met with out of Paraguay, nor is it found in every part of that province even; for, like the other more elegant parrots which I have described, it only inhabits the northern forests. In the more southern regions, parrots of the largest size, but of a sombre dark green colour, and annoying to the ears by their senseless clamours, fly in crowds about the groves, especially those composed of palm trees; where wander also great numbers of very small parrots, about the size of a lark, adorned with pale green feathers, and called catitas, or kikilk. They are merry, playful, cunning, and may easily be taught to pronounce some words. They are kept in leathern cages. Incredible is the mischief they do to fields sowed with maize. Guards are necessary to keep them off. The Indians know how to change the natural colour of the parrot into any other they choose. They pull the feathers up by the roots, and rub the place from which they have been plucked, till it grows red, and blood flows from it; they then instil and press into the pores or sockets of the old feathers, juice of any colour they like. If the wings or tail be imbued with a yellow, red, or blue colour, yellow, red, or blue feathers will grow there. This was practised amongst the Brazilians, Guaranies, and, according to P. Joseph Labrador, amongst the Mbaya savages. The same Father observed that the Indians performed the operation in the beginning of spring or autumn, that green is very easily turned into yellow, and that yellow feathers, if plucked up, will be succeeded by none but yellow ones. Why might not the experiment be tried upon European birds? A red canary, a yellow nightingale, and a blue lark, would certainly be curious objects.

As the beautiful colours of parrots, and their merry garrulity delight the ear and eye, their flesh, in like manner, is extremely pleasing to the palate, but being rather hard, must be beaten a little while, before it will become tender. As parrots are exceedingly suspicious, all times are not equally proper for hunting them. When they assemble on the highest boughs, one of them occupies the top of the tree, that, if any body approaches, he may warn his companions of their danger, and exhort them to flight by sudden clamour. About sun-set they compose themselves to rest like hens. A great crowd generally assemble on one tree, and as each strives to get the highest bough, continual quarrels ensue—one trying to push the other from the seat that he has obtained, whilst, amid horrid clamours, the feathers that they have torn from each other with their beak or claws, fly about in all directions. During these contentions for the highest place, the hunter steals softly thither, and with a gun, or a bow, knocks down the disputing bipeds. If ever you hear the parrots, which you see in the houses of the wealthy, called by other names than those I have mentioned, remember that they must have been brought from other countries, of Asia, Africa, or America. White parrots, with a little red crest, called cockatoos, and others of a grey colour, which I have often seen in Germany, are unknown to Paraguay. The smaller parrots, which we call tuỹ; in the Guarany tongue, have the French name perroquet given them in Europe.

INDIAN CROWS.

Indian crows are black, like those of Europe, but much longer; their head and neck, as far as the beginning of the wings, are bald, smooth, quite destitute of feathers, but full of wrinkles. These birds subsist on the carcasses and entrails of slain beasts. Whenever oxen are killed in the open plain, as usual there, they perch upon trees or roofs of houses, presently rush down upon the intestines, and one taking each end, carry them through the air like a long rope. Their king is clothed with extremely white feathers, and though very seldom seen, flies accompanied by the other crows, as by satellites. As birds of one feather flock together, the Abipones, who live on rapine, bring up the young of these rapacious crows at home, as they become wonderfully tame: for they accompany their masters when they ride out to hunt or enjoy the country, partake their fare, and return when they return, but sometimes suffer themselves to be enticed away by flocks of crows which they meet on the road. Crows' feathers are generally chosen for arrows by the savages, on account of their strength.

THE CARACARÀ, OR CARRANCHO.

Kindred, and allies of the crows, are birds which the Spaniards call caracarà, or carrancho. Their body is of a yellowish grey colour, but spotted with yellow and white. They are about the size of a hen, and resemble a hawk in their head, hooked bill, eyes, long claws, and long tail. They feed upon carcasses, like crows, and do a great deal of mischief amongst hens and other birds. Their flesh is of no use.

VARIOUS KINDS OF HAWKS.

Caracaràs are followed by kirikirì, different kinds of hawks, spotted with various colours. Amongst them are the common hawk, the goshawk, or gerfalcon, &c.

Of owls, the commonest are those which the Spaniards call lechuza, and the horned owl, which the Spaniards call mochuelo. Bats are of various kinds, and very common, as shall be shown hereafter.

THE GOOSE.

Water-fowl are so numerous, and of such various kinds, that it would fill a volume to describe them properly; I shall therefore only speak of some of them. I have, though very seldom, met with an immense number of geese like those of Europe in lakes. But of ducks there is such a variety and number, not only in the lakes but in the rivers also, that their dung defiles the water so as to render it unfit to be drunk.

VARIOUS KINDS OF DUCKS.

Ducks, clothed with black and white feathers, are extremely numerous, and pass the day in the water, and the night in trees close by it. They are most easily and frequently shot out of the water. Their young, when removed to towns, seldom become tame. Other ducks, which the Abipones call roakabì, have feathers of various colours, and beautifully red feet. Small ducks, called by the Abipones ruililiè, flit about together at night, making a loud hissing, and are believed by the Abipones to be spirits of the dead. The most remarkable are certain middle-sized ducks, of a beautiful rose colour from the head to the tail, but their natural ill smell annoys the nostrils of all who approach them, as much as the beauty of their plumage delights beholders. Under the beautiful feathers of their wings and the rest of their body, (of which not only the plume, but the quill, which we use to write with, is tinged with a deep red colour,) is concealed skin, bone, and a very scanty portion of most stinking flesh. They are slenderer than geese's quills, and are used by the Abipones to adorn and crown their heads.

STORKS.

Paraguay is not destitute of river-fowl, very like European herons and storks.

THE HARIA.

The haria, which is about the size of a stork, boldly attacks serpents, pierces them with its bill and eats them. It soon grows tame in the houses of the Spaniards, and is very useful in gardens by killing noxious insects. I was often moved to laughter by another river-fowl, which, when it stretches out its neck, exceeds a tall man in height, and a lamb in the size of its body. This bird is entirely white, and has very long feet. It stands for many hours motionless, as if meditating, in the water; but I confess that I have forgotten its name.

WATER-CROWS.

In the river Parana, and elsewhere, numerous water-crows are seen. Their young are devoured with avidity by the savages, though they all detest the thought of eating birds, hens, or chicken. It would take a long time to mention all the various kinds of water-fowl which swarm in the larger rivers and subsist wholly on fish.

SWALLOWS.

Before I proceed from birds to fishes, I think proper to subjoin a few remarks upon common hens and swallows, the latter of which no ways differ from those of Europe in appearance, voice, and habits. Although Paraguay is free from snow, yet as the south wind renders the air rather cold in winter, the swallows migrate like those of Europe to other places about the beginning of autumn, and pass the winter in some unknown retreats, but return at the commencement of spring.

BRAZILIAN FOWLS.

The Paraguayrian hens have the same form and variety of colour as the European. A few years ago, hens much larger, but not better than the common ones, were brought into Paraguay from Brazil. Their flesh is hard and unsavoury. The chickens are not clothed with feathers within several weeks. The cock is unusually large, and instead of the crest which those of our country wear, displays a large purple crown. Now let us proceed to the scaly tribes of Paraguay.

VARIOUS KINDS OF FISHES.

I never found any European fish throughout the whole extent of Paraguay, but many in some respects resembling them. Those best known to me I will describe under their Spanish or Indian names.

THE DORADO.

The fish dorado has obtained the name of the golden fish from its scales, which shine like gold. It is of great weight, and affords solid, white, and savoury flesh. Its head is justly reckoned a dainty, though almost all other fish have their heads cut off in Paraguay, before they are brought to table.

THE PACÙ.

The pacù is remarkable not only for length but breadth, and the savouriness of its flesh, which is prized for its abundance of fat. The scales are of a dusky, and in some of a sulphureous colour. The head seems too small in proportion to the rest of the body. The Parana, and even the lesser rivers which unite with it, abound in this most excellent fish.

THE CORVINO.

The corvino is generally caught in the neighbourhood of the ports of Monte-Video and Maldonado, where the fresh water is mingled with the salt water of the river Plata. It has somewhat the appearance of a carp, but excels that fish so much in size and savouriness, that it is eagerly sought by distant cities.

THE MUNGRÚLLU.

The mungrúllu is perhaps the largest and strongest of the Paraguayrian river-fish. It sometimes weighs more than a hundred pounds. Its flesh is firm and red.

THE ZURUBÌ.

The zurubì, a fish scarce inferior in size to the former, is not covered with scales, but with a slippery skin of a greyish colour, and mottled with large black spots. It affords white, solid, savoury, and wholesome flesh. The vast weight of this fish maybe inferred from the circumstance that when hung upon a pole, and carried on the back, it is enough to tire two Indians.

THE PATÌ.

The patì is thought almost equal to the former in size and savouriness.

THE ARMADO.

The fish armado is very properly named, for its back and sides are armed all over with very sharp gills and fins, with which it endeavours to wound the fisherman as he is taking the hook from its jaws, horribly roaring at the same time and tossing itself about, on account of which its head must be crushed with a strong stake as soon as it is taken out of the river. Its head is round, resembling that of a frog, and shielded by a very strong shell. It has small bright eyes, surrounded by a circle of gold. Its mouth is narrow, but rendered terrific by a shaggy beard. The body is of an iron-grey colour, and armed with very hard oblong scales. This fish is thicker than it is long, and often weighs four, often six pounds, or more. Its flesh is solid, extremely well tasted, and on that account thought very wholesome for sick persons. The river Paraguay abounds in this noble fish.

THE VAGRE.

The vagre is a species of trout. Its head is covered with a hard shell, its skin is smooth, slippery, and covered with red spots, and its flesh extremely well tasted. Various rivers contain various kinds of this fish, which are distinguished by the number, size, and colour of their fins and gills, but are all of an admirable savour. Of their bladder, ground with the teeth, and mixed up with brandy, a very strong glue is made.

THE SÁVALO.

The sávalo somewhat resembles our carp, but is smaller, and more savoury. You scarcely ever see one weighing more than two pounds. This fish is full of thorns. Though very common in many rivers and lakes, it is never caught with a hook.

THE BÒGA.

The bòga differs little from the sávalo, but is superior to that fish, though less abundant.

THE PEJE REY.

The peje rey means the king fish, for in fact, though only middle-sized, its flesh is pre-eminently good. It has a very large head and mouth, and is destitute of fat. It is only caught in that part of the Parana which washes the territories of Sta. Fè, or in the kindred streams, to which this fish repairs to spawn. When fresh, it is reckoned amongst the delicacies of the tables of the wealthy. After being dried by the air only, without a grain of salt, it is sent in quantities from the above-mentioned city to others, and kept a long while, but soon putrifies if it contracts any moisture on the way.

LA VIEJA.

La vieja is a very strange fish, for its whole body is covered with a strong shell, or horny bark, which would resist even a knife. Hence, when caught it is laid on live coals, together with the shell, and eaten roasted in this manner. It is very seldom taken with a hook, and rarely weighs more than a pound.

THE DENTUDO.

The dentudo abounds every where, and would be extremely palatable, were it not for the thorns with which it is covered. It scarcely ever weighs so much as a pound. I have caught and eaten numbers of them, but have lost many hooks in the process, for they gnawed the line to pieces with their sharp teeth.

THE RAYA.

The raya is a fish of such singular appearance, that it can hardly be reckoned amongst fishes. Its form resembles that of an oval dish with a flat surface. Its back is black, and its belly white. In the middle of its body is placed a narrow mouth or cheek. It has a smooth, slender, but very long tail, denticulated like a saw, and armed at the end with a poisonous sting, with which, whilst lurking under the sand on the shore, it grievously wounds the naked feet of the sailors walking about there, whenever it has an opportunity. The wound presently swells, gets inflamed, and unless hot ashes be immediately applied to it, causes death. It is a curious fact, that the Abipones use this envenomed sting as a pen-knife to open a vein. The flesh of the raya may be eaten; but it is generally thought that hunger alone could render it palatable, though I must say, that, well fried, it was not unpleasant to my taste. The size and form of these fish vary in various kinds; (for there are many species of them). They appear to be viviparous, for embryos are frequently found in their insides.

THE PALOMETA.

The palometa is more formidable to swimmers than any crocodile; for its jaws, each of which is furnished with fourteen very sharp, triangular teeth, like so many spears, are its armoury, with which it attacks any part of the human body, and cuts it off at one blow. I myself have seen a strong Abipon with the sole of his foot severely wounded by this fish, and an Abiponian boy with four of his toes cut off by it and hanging only from a bit of skin. To prove the credibility of the fact, I must tell you that the Abiponian women use the jaw of the palometa to shear sheep with. The Abipones also, before they were in possession of iron, used it to cut off the heads of the Spaniards. This fish is found every where in great abundance, but is smaller in the smaller rivers, where it scarce weighs half a pound, while in the larger ones it grows to the size of two or more pounds; but its length never corresponds to its breadth. It has a curved back, thick head, wide mouth, small round eyes, and a broad forked tail. Besides the formidable jaw which I have described, it threatens all assailants with large, long gills, and seven sharp fins, the largest of which is situated in the middle of the back, and runs towards the tail. The body is covered with faint grey spots, interspersed with red, blue, and yellow. The flesh is firm, white, and very savoury; I wish that it were not so full of bones. When the hook is extracted, these fish must be handled with caution, otherwise they will wound you with their teeth or fins.

THE MBÙZU.

In muddy pools, and even in rivers, you see fish very like European eels, and not eaten by the Indians, on account of their snake-like appearance. Our eating one of these fishes caused a report amongst the Indians that Europeans fed upon serpents. Whether these fishes are really eels, or of the serpent kind, I will not pretend to determine.

THE RIVER-CRAB.

Although Paraguay abounds in various kinds of choice fish, it is almost destitute of crabs. I had long heard that some very small crabs, not like those of the sea, but like those in the rivers of Germany, were found in certain streams in the territories of the Uruguay; and I myself saw some which were brought to our table in the Uruguayan town of Concepçion; but they were pygmies in comparison with ours, and might be called mere shadows, and embryos of crabs. After travelling, sailing, and fishing so much in Paraguay, as I never saw any other cray fish beside these, it is my opinion that there are none, or very few indeed. But there are a great variety of sea-crabs.

RIVER-TORTOISES.

The rivers, lakes, and streams, abound in tortoises, but not of that kind the shells of which are valuable in Europe, and fit for working. No sooner did we cast a hook into the river than a tortoise would bite, but was always rejected by us; for in the greater part of Paraguay these animals are eaten neither by Spaniards nor Indians. The only useful part of tortoises in Paraguay is their great shells, which are used for pots and plates by the common people.

LAND-TORTOISES.

Whilst the Abipones, Guaranies, and other Indians with whom I was acquainted, not only abstain from eating tortoises, but even detest the very idea of such a thing; the Chiquitos, on the contrary, make them their chief food during the greater portion of the year. They laboriously hunt after these animals, which are marked with various colours, in the woods and rocks, that provision may not fail them during those months in which their territories are inundated by an annual flood; for as there is more wood and mountain than plain country there, the deficiency of pasture renders it impossible that as many oxen can be raised and killed, for the support of the Indians, as in the colonies of the Guaranies and Abipones. The tortoise, therefore, supplies the place of beef among the Chiquitos.

SNAILS.