Chapter 12

The Chulis, or whirlpools of the Chambal—Grandeur of the
scene—Description of the falls and rocks of the Chambal in
this part—The remarkable narrowness of its bed—The
_roris_, or stones found in the whirlpools—Visit to
Gangabheva—Its magnificent temple and shrines—The details
of their architecture—The main temple more modern than the
shrines around it—Dilapidation of these fine specimens of
art—Effects of vegetation—The gigantic
_amarvela_—Naoli—Takaji-ka-kund, or fountain of the
snake-king—Fragments of sculpture—Mausoleum of Jaswant Rao
Holkar—Holkar’s horse—His elephant—Bhanpura—Tranquillity
and prosperity of these parts—Garot—Traces of King Satal
Patal, of the era of the Pandus—Agates and cornelians—The
caves of Dhumnar—Description of the caves and
temples—Explanation of the figures—Jain symbols on one
side of the caves, Brahman on the other—Statues of the
Jain pontiffs—Bhim’s bazar 1764

CHAPTER 13

Route over the ground of Monson’s retreat—Battle of
Pipli—Heroism of Amar Singh Hara, chief of Koila—Conduct
of General Monson—Pachpahar—Kanwara—Thriving aspect of the
country—Jhalrapatan—Temples—Commercial immunities of the
city—Judicious measures of the Regent in establishing this
mart—Public visit of the community of Patan—The ancient
city—Legends of its foundation—Profusion of ancient
ruins—Fine sculpture and architecture of the
temples—Inscriptions—Cross the natural boundary of Haraoti
and Malwa—The Chhaoni of the Kotah Regent—Chhaoni of the
Pindaris—Gagraun—Narayanpur—Mukunddarra
Pass—Inscriptions—Anecdotes of the 'Lords of the Pass'—The
Chaori of Bhim—Ruins—Ordinances of the Hara princes—Return
to Kotah—Field sports—Author attacked by a bear—Ruins of
Ekelgarh 1777

CHAPTER 14

Visit to Menal—Definition of the servile condition termed
_basai_—Bijolia—Inscriptions—Ancient history of
Bijolli—Evidence that the Chauhans wrested the throne of
Delhi from the Tuars—Jain temples—Inscriptions—Saiva
temples—Prodigious extent of ruins—The Bijolli chief—His
daughter a Sati—Menal, or Mahanal—Its picturesque
site—Records of Prithiraj, the
Chauhan—Inscriptions—Synchronism in an enigmatical
date—March to Begun—Bumbaoda, the castle of Alu
Hara—Legends of that chief—Imprecation of the virgin
Sati—Recollections of the Haras still associated with
their ancient traditions—Quit Bumbaoda and arrive at Begun 1796

CHAPTER 15

Begun—Serious accident to the Author—Affecting testimony of
the gratitude of the Rawat—Expulsion of the Mahrattas from
Begun—The estates of the Rawat
sequestrated—Restored—Basai—Chitor—‘Akbar’s
Lamp’—Reflections upon the Ruins of Chitor—Description of
the city, from the Khuman Raesa, and from observation—Tour
of the city—Origin of the Bagrawat class—Inscriptions—Aged
Fakir—Return to Udaipur—Conclusion 1810