Chapter IX: The Provinces--Beauty Spots (1)

The Philippine Archipelago is a compact group of islands. The distances between each island require only a few hours of sailing. They therefore have been said to possess strategic unity. From the northernmost port, Aparri, to the southernmost Zamboanga, the total distance is 895 miles. It takes only 36 hours from Manila to Aparri and about 72 from Manila to Zamboanga. With faster boats, the time required will be much less.

In each island the provinces and the important towns are easily accessible. They are connected by good roads. In the bigger islands the Manila Railroad operates lines, such as in Luzon, Cebu, and Iloilo.

The trip through the provinces should be taken whenever possible. Barring the usual discomforts of a tropical clime, there are delights galore for everyone, even for the hardy sportsman--pristine forests, crystal streams, splashing falls. The panoramas that unfold as the traveler motors from province to province or cruises about from island to island present a continuous series of scenic pictures of infinite variety. In other lands nature and man have combined their efforts in forming recreation spots of compelling charm. In the Philippines it is only nature that has done the work.

The services of a guide should in all cases be secured in order to expedite the visits. Applications for guides should be made to the Director of the Bureau of Commerce and Industry.

LAGUNA PROVINCE.--The Province of Laguna is situated on a narrow plain which lies to the east, south, and southeast of Laguna Lake, commonly known as Laguna de Bay. It is a very fertile province and has a very pleasant climate, the usual temperature being several degrees cooler than Manila. It produces coconuts, rice, sugar-cane, abaca, corn and a great variety of fruits and vegetables.

In industrial enterprises the province is very progressive. Some of the largest kind of hemp cables are made in the rope factory of Santa Cruz. Buntal hats and pandan mats are made in Majayjay and Luisiana, pandan hats in Cavisti, Sabutan hats in Mavitac, rattan chairs in Paquil and Los Baños, wooden slippers in Biñan and Calamba, and abacá slippers in Lilio. Furniture is also made in Paete, soap in Santa Cruz, crude pottery in Lumban, better grade of glazed pottery in San Pedro Tunasan, coconut wine in the upper towns, and embroidery in Lumbang. Mineral waters are bottled in Los Baños, Pagsanjan, and Magdalena. A steam saw mill is located in Santa Maria. In Los Baños is a stone quarry that supplies crushed stone for the Provinces of Bulacan, Rizal, Cavite, Batangas, and Tayabas.

The province, besides having a rich soil, has an abundance of water supply. The Laguna de Bay, the largest lake in the Philippines, permits of easy and cheap transportation. Fifteen of the 28 municipalities are reached by water and a line of steam launches provides a daily service between the lake and the city of Manila. The lake abounds in fish. The swamps along its eastern shores are overgrown with pandan groves. The bay is covered during the rainy season with the pink-flowered lotus plant. Along the low shores are veritable hunting grounds which abound in snipe and wild ducks.

The province also abounds in picturesque sceneries, in the San Pablo Valley there are nine beautifully-set crater lakes. Banahaw, a mountain having an elevation of 7,382 feet, is covered with vegetation of all kinds. In the crater of San Cristobal which has an elevation of about 5,000 feet there is a beautiful fresh water lake.

San Pablo is a progressive town well worth visiting. It is one of the largest towns in the Islands and is up-to-date in every respect. A large park overlooks a lake of rare beauty with the majestic San Cristobal mountains in the background. A long flight of white stone steps leads from the cliff above down to the lake shore, and the park is a favorite picnic ground. The veteran's monument at this point always attracts much attention. The town has numerous private residences of striking architectural design.

[Pagsanjan Falls]

One of the prettiest and wildest spots lies within easy reach of Manila--Pagsanjan Falls. Pagsanjan, the town, in itself worth seeing for its beautiful residences and the surrounding forests, can be reached in three and one-half hours by train or automobile through a lovely coconut country. There are good hotel accommodations with clean beds and food. Everything is done for the tourist; arrangements are made for boats and guides, and launches are provided.

From the hotel you walk a short distance to a long row of bancas, prow on shore, and a noisy throng of men clamoring for the favor of your patronage; but you have probably chosen men at the hotel and are conducted to certain boats by your guide. In the center of your boat is the seat, a split bamboo chair with reclining back and bottom of bamboo splints. The two boatmen take their places at the ends of the boat and push off into the small stream for a few hundred yards to Pagsanjan River.

The boat is paddled up the river past large rafts of coconuts, by great trees dipping their leaves into the water. Along the shores are parties of laughing people--some bathing and some washing clothes. Now there are long reaches of quiet water, clear and deep; then banks begin to rise above you; there is a swirl here, a ripple there, and a swish below the gunwales. You are drawing toward the rapids. The boatmen get put into the water and pull and tug and shove; the water sucks viciously. The boat enters the gorge and its shadows. The river becomes silent stretches of black water, and the air is cold. Above, for hundreds of feet, tower the great cliffs of Pagsanjan to which cling vines, desperate trees, and dripping shrubs. On all sides are falls breaking upon the rocks and filling the canyon with a pleasant murmur; then more rapids and sweeps of fierce water. Great boulders have fallen into the river. Unable to paddle against the current or to wade, the men now fight painfully forward by clinging to vines, the rocks, anything. Then out of the boat again, lifting it and you bodily up steps of pouring water, around corners, shooting across a quiet pool into a fury of cascading foam. At times you scramble out of the boat and detour a little over intervening rocks, while the fight with the river goes on. For two hours the journey continues, until you come to the end--a large pool--above you, Pagsanjan Falls, the largest waterfall in the Islands, around, the insurmountable cliffs fringed above by shining palms. Monkeys and iguanas scurry over the slippery bluffs complaining at intrusion.

You should go prepared to rough it. Only a bathing suit is worn in the boats and except at times of low water, kodaks had better be left at the hotel, for rapids lap over the side. Indeed many have been the spills in the swift water. But there is no danger, and a wetting is of no consequence. The whole trip need cost no more than twenty pesos nor occupy more than a day and a half.

It is a wonderful trip for those who enjoy the wilds. The gorge is considered one of the beauty spots of the world.

RIZAL PROVINCE.--To the north of Laguna de Bay, is Rizal Province, named after the national hero of the Filipinos. Pasig, the capital is an important commercial town. It is located on the Pasig River, a stream which is navigable thruout the year. Malabon, noted for her fisheries and fish ponds, furnishes the City of Manila with choice fish to the value of hundreds of thousands of pesos a year. A flourishing poultry industry may be seen at Pateros. Parañaque is noted for its embroideries while in Mariquina the chief industry is the making of shoes and slippers. Along the borders of the Pasig River much grass is cultivated to furnish the Manila market with green fodder for horses and carabaos.

In this province are the towns of Pasig, San Juan del Monte, and Caloocan where the first blood of the Philippine Revolution against Spain was shed. Here also is to be found the historic spot of Balintawak where Andres Bonifacio and his followers sounded the well-remembered "Cry of Balintawak," the call for the outbreak of the Revolution.

[Antipolo]

Antipolo has the shrine of Our Lady of Peace and Prosperous Voyages. It is a town about half an hour's ride from Manila. It is built on a mountainous section of the province of Rizal. The road is rather steep and the scenery quite wild and impressive.

The image of the Virgin, commonly known as the "Virgin of Antipolo," was originally brought from Mexico by the Spaniards to insure the safety of the galleons from the anger of the sea, and from the attacks of the pirates who used to lie in wait in the San Bernardino Strait and Verde Island Passage.

[Shrine]

The shrine is the most famous of all Philippine shrines. To it thousands of devout Filipinos journey annually to pay their respects. The Virgin is dressed in a robe that falls in a cone stiff with gold and other jewels. It is estimated that the value of her decoration is as high as P1,000,000.

The true history of the image is interesting, but still more remarkable is the crust of legend with which the facts have become overlaid. It was actually brought to the Islands in 1626 by Juan Niño de Tabora, who had just been appointed Governor-General, and in 1672 it was removed to its present home. According to the legends, the Virgin crossed the Pacific eight or nine times, in addition to the original voyage, and, on each one, calmed a tempest. On other occasions she is said to have descended and appeared among the branches of the antipolo or bread-fruit tree (whence the name of the present church), to have survived the roaring fire in which the Chinese rebels cast her in 1639, and to have given the Spaniards a complete victory over twelve Dutch warships off Mariveles!

CAVITE PROVINCE.--This province is in the southwestern part of Luzon lying along the shore of Manila Bay. It has a fine harbor in the city of Cavite, actually the site of the United States Naval Station.

The most important agricultural products are rice, hemp, sugar, copra, cacao, coffee, corn, and coconuts.

The city of Cavite, the capital, noted for its dock-yards is just across the bay from Manila. It is an old town of historic interest. It was there that the ships used in the Manila-Acapulco trade and in the expeditions against the Mohammedan pirates in the south were fitted out. In 1647 a Dutch squadron suddenly made its appearance off the coast of the city and bombarded the fort. It is said that the Dutch fired more than 2,000 cannon balls at the place, but in the end, however, were forced to withdraw.

In 1872, a military mutiny led by Lamadrid took place in Cavite. This mutiny though insignificant in itself had important political results. The government made it an excuse for the execution of three leading native priests, Dr. Jose Burgos and Fathers Gomez and Zamora, and for the exile of many Filipino leaders of the liberal movement of 1869-1871.

[Zapote Bridge]

From the beginning to the very end of the Revolution, Cavite Province was the center of military operations. Zapote bridge, for example, was more than once the scene of hard fighting. Practically every town in the province was at one time or another fought over. Many of the leaders of the Revolution, like Emilio Aguinaldo, who was President of the Philippine Republic, his cousin Baldomero, Noriel, Trias, and others are sons of Cavite. Moreover, when the Revolutionary Government was established, Bacoor was really the first capital.

[Radio Station]

The city of Cavite is the United States' Navy base and radio station in the Philippine Islands. The arsenal as well as the modern wireless station in the extreme end of the peninsula should not be missed. The city is about an hour's ride by automobile passing through the towns of Parañaque, Las Piñas, Kawit, Noveleta, and San Roque. In the church at Las Piñas may be seen the famous bamboo organ, old and quaint, yet still serviceable. It was made by a priest exclusively from the native bamboo tree. Cavite can also be reached by water, there being small boats plying between the city and Manila at regular intervals.

[Kawit]

Kawit or Cavite Viejo is the town of General Emilio Aguinaldo. He has his home there, which is noted for its historic interest. It is preserved as it was during revolutionary days. Visitors can still see the desk used by the General during the revolution as well as the holes made by a cannon ball from Admiral Dewey's flagship "The Olimpia."

BATANGAS PROVINCE.--Batangas Province is immediately south of Cavite Province. It has an irregular coastline and has many important ports, such as Nasugbu, Calatagan, Balayan, Calaca, Lemeri, Taal, San Luis, Batangas, Lobo, and San Juan.

At Laiya on the coast between San Juan and Lobo are the famous Lobo submarine gardens. During fair weather the water here is as clear as crystal and the submarine growth may be seen in all its varied colors.

The valleys and slopes of the province are extremely fertile because of the disintegrated volcanic rock that is carried down from the mountains by the river. Sugar, hemp, citrus fruits, coconut, corn, mangoes, and other fruits and vegetables are grown in abundance. The province is especially noted for its delicious oranges, grown in Tanawan and Santo Tomas. Great herds of horses famous throughout the archipelago as well as carabaos and cattle are raised on the mountain slopes. Bawan and Lemeri are famous for the fine jusi and piña cloths manufactured there and for the knotted abaca that is sent to Japan for the manufacture of hats.

[Historical Incidents]

Throughout the 17th century the coast towns of Batangas suffered greatly from Moro attacks. Stone forts were erected at various points along the coast--in Lemeri, Taal, Bawan, and Batangas--but still the Moros came. In 1754 as many as 38 Moro vessels appeared off the coast. In 1763 the northern part of the province was visited by the British in search of the treasure of the galleon "Philippine." The expedition failed to find the treasure but went as far as Lipa and plundered the town. Batangas was one of the first provinces to start the revolution of 1896. Two of the great leaders of the period were sons of the province, namely, the great lawyer and statesman, Apolinario Mabini, and Miguel Malvar, the famous general.

[Attractions]

Among the attractions are the old picturesque buildings of Lipa and Taal, the San Juan sulphur springs, the Bawan hot springs, and the Rosario fresh water spring. There are also several caves and grottos. The two largest are found in the slopes of Mount Pulan, Suya, and Kamantigue of San Juan. One of the caves has an opening of 40 meters in circumference. Issuing therefrom is an underground river which empties into Lake Taal. Along its course are extensive galleries and chambers lined with fantastically shaped stalactites and stalagmites. At the approach of an eruption of the Taal Volcano nearby, the cave emits a weird sound, audible at great distances.

[Taal Volcano]

Taal Volcano is the great scenic asset of the province. Almost at the doors of Manila it is easily reached with practically none of the discomfort which a trip to nature's wild spots usually involves. The volcano is commonly known as the "cloud maker" and "the terrible." How long this volcano has been emitting sulphurous smoke is not known; all that is known is that back in the geologic past, volcanic outbursts of enormous magnitude disturbed the regions about it. In the 18th century the volcano erupted several times, and ruined many towns in the neighborhood. The last and perhaps the worst eruption occurred in January, 1911.

Then, after a long interval, old Taal, in a paroxysm of volcanic activity, showed that he was still lusty and capable of making a huge disturbance. In addition to the steam which had been coming from the crater more or less continuously, the volcano began throwing out mud. This activity increased, and culminated in a great explosion at about half past 2 on the morning of January 30th. The hot water, mud, and ashes completely devastated about 90 square miles of country; while some mud and fine ashes fell over an area of more than 800 square miles. Many villages were destroyed and the official estimate of the dead was 1,335. The spasm of activity died away until the volcano again assumed its normal state about February 8th. Since then it has been very quiet, though a small mud geyser has started up along the old fault line which extends from Taal to the coast. This is located on the beach at the village of Sinisian.

Before the eruption the floor of the crater stood about five feet above the level of Lake Bombon. In it were four prominent features: Two small lakes of hot water, one green, the other more or less red; near the center a gas vent five or six feet in diameter, from which the hot gases roared as from a blast furnace; and just a little distance away a triangular obelisk of hard volcanic rock. During the eruption all of the material in the bottom of this crater, to a depth of about 230 feet, was heaved up and spread broadcast over the country. Later on, this hole filled up with water, which seeped in from the lake almost up to the level of the old floor, or about that of the lake itself. There is now one large body of steaming water in place of the former features, but the old obelisk still stands defiantly in its place.

The volcano consists of an active crater near the center of a low island not over 5 1/2 miles in its longest diameter. The island is situated at the center of Taal Lake (Bombon) which is about 17 miles long and 10 1/2 miles wide. The lake is 10 meters deep and is 2.5 meters above sea level.

A small launch carries those who would look down into the crater across the lake to the island from which the volcano rises. The volcano is about a thousand feet in height and is fairly easy to climb.

TAYABAS PROVINCE, the second largest, is on the Pacific coast of the Philippine Islands. The province is noted for its copra, abacá and corn which are raised for export. Mineral resources are abundant in the Bondoc Peninsula where gold, coal, and petroleum are found. Aside from agriculture and mining, however, there are other industries such as hat-making and lumbering. There is a lumber camp at Guinayañgan and a modern saw and planing mill in Lucena. The Botocan Falls, where a stream 40 feet wide makes a leap of 190 feet, could supply the entire province with light and power for all its needs.

[Lucena and Atimonan]

The spin to Lucena and Atimonan, both in the Province of Tayabas over the South Road, is a favorite one. On the east are the little town of Binañgonan de Lampon, a celebrated port in the sixteenth century in the galleon trade, and the landlocked harbor of Hondagua, destined to be the direct port of call of steamers coming from the Pacific Coast of the United States and Canada.

On the way, stop can readily be made at the town of Calamba, Laguna, about 37 miles from Manila. This is the birthplace of the Filipino author, and patriot Dr. Jose Rizal. Although the house where he was born is no longer standing, the site can easily be found opposite the church and market. Calamba has an added importance in that the town has a modern sugar central, which the traveler should not fail to visit.

[Los Baños]

A short detour can readily be made also at Los Baños ("The Baths"), a town which owes its name and its importance to the hot mineral springs which abound in the neighborhood and have been found to be of great medicinal value especially for the treatment of certain skin diseases and rheumatism. The springs have been known for a great length of time. Even during the Spanish days the town was a much frequented resort, a hospital with pools and vapored rooms having been built as far back as 1571.

[College of Agriculture]

A short distance from Los Baños, and occupying an extremely picturesque side are the palms and buildings of the College of Agriculture of the University of the Philippines, an institution which trains young Filipinos in a calling which must for many years to come be the foundation of the economic prosperity of the islands.

THE BICOL PROVINCES.--Farther south, are the provinces of Albay, Camarines Norte, Camarines Sur, and Sorsogon, known as the Bicol Provinces, because inhabited by Bicolanos. All four provinces are noted for their beautiful mountain views and extensive plantations of coconut and hemp. In Albay the forests are extensive, providing timber, rattan, pili-nuts, and gum for export. Gutta-percha and Para rubber trees are extensively cultivated. There are wide pasture grounds for horses, cattle, carabaos, goats, and sheep. The temperature is even and the nights are cool and refreshing. There are also salubrious mineral springs, the best known being the Tiwi Hot Sulphur Springs in the town of Naga.

The Province of Catanduanes abounds in gold, copper, and iron. The Batan coal mines which are being operated are supplying several manufacturing and gas plants. There are quarries of marble in Pantaon; gypsum deposits in Ligao; and lime in Guinobatan and Camalig.

Camarines Norte is rich in mineral resources. Gold is found in many places, exploitation being actually carried on in Paracale. There are also deposits of iron, silver, lead, and copper.

Camarines Sur, on the valley of Bicol River and the Caramoan Peninsula, is noted for its rattan industry. Hemp planting and fishing and coconut growing are the other principal industries.

Sorsogon occupies the southernmost tip of the Bicol Peninsula. The largest indenture in its irregular coast is the gulf of Sorsogon, a land-locked body of water and one of the finest harbors in the Philippines. The land is mountainous and covered with excellent lumber suitable for ship-building and furniture making. In the forests rattan grows in abundance and is exported to all the provinces. The chief products are abaca and coconuts.

Sorsogon, the capital, located on the gulf, is an important commercial town. Pilar is noted for her shipyards; ships, lorchas, and boats are built here from the fine timber grown nearby.

[Sceneries]

Among the sceneries are the Guinulajon waterfalls, near the capital, the wild vegetation and the cataracts along the Irosin River, the medicinal hot springs of Mombon, Bujan, and Mapaso, together with the beautiful panorama from the Bulusan Volcano are especially striking. Like Mount Vesuvius, Mount Bulusan has an old crater, and a new cone that has appeared on the slopes. Inside the crater, about 500 feet deep, are two pools of hot water which form the basin from which the Irosin River rises.

A great event in the history of Sorsogon was the invention of a hemp-stripping machine by a priest named Espellargas, about 1669. The invention was made in Bacon, where it seems hemp then abounded. The contrivance was ingeniously constructed and was quite well adapted to local conditions.

[Historical Incidents]

Many of the galleons that the Spanish Government used in the Manila-Acapulco trade were built in Sorsogon, especially on the Island of Bagatao, at the entrance of Sorsogon Bay. Many of these ships were wrecked while navigating the waters of Sorsogon, because they laid their course for Mexico via the San Bernardino Strait, a passage which abounds in dangerous currents, shoals, and rocks. The galleon San Cristobal was wrecked in 1733 near the Calantas Rock. In 1793, the galleon Magallanes also ran aground at this place. Other vessels went down in this neighborhood from time to time, as the Santo Cristo de Burgos, in 1726, near Ticao, and the San Andres, in 1798, near Naranja Island.

[Volcanoes]

Peerless Mayon of the perfect cone is in Albay, the volcano of Isarog in Ambos Camarines, and Bulusan in Sorsogon.

For those who love mountain climbing, the ascent to the peak of Mayon Volcano should not be missed.

The actual ascent, though arduous, is perfectly practicable. It requires from a day and a half to two days from Albay. By leaving the latter place on horseback at noon it is possible to ride one-third of the way up before dark. Leaving the horses at the camping place, the summit can be reached and the return trip made to Albay on the following day. A vivid description of the trip, written by Dr. Paul C. Freer, Director of the Bureau of Science, follows:

"This great volcano rises from the seacoast, between Legaspi and
Tabaco, in the form of an almost perfect cone--the white houses and
church towers of the surrounding settlements and the deeper-colored
verdure of the trees at its base, higher up the brilliant green
of the bare glass streaked here and there by old lava flows,
and still higher a grayish black cinder and ash cone tapering
to the peak, with a small plume of steam escaping apparently
from the extreme summit. The ascent is interesting, but may, if
proper precautions are not taken, be dangerous. The rise of the
land in the first part is scarcely perceptible, the road winding
through forest interspersed with great plantations of manila hemp;
above, as it becomes steeper, the latter give way almost entirely
to tropical jungle; and finally the path emerges into cogonal,
which extends as far as the angle of the slope will permit. Here
and there the entire slope is cut by deep ravines, indicating
old lava flows. The way up the cone at first invariably lies in
one of these ravines, but now and again the mountain climber is
compelled to cross rolling cinder beds only a few inches deep,
and lying upon a harder base, almost invariably with an abrupt
descent below. The angle is so great that every precaution must be
taken, as a slip would prove fatal. A good steelshod alpenstock
is practically indispensable. The last five hundred feet are
along the perpendicular lava and tuff crags of the summit, the
ambitious climber clinging to the latter with hands and toes,
wherever support is possible and slowly working his way to the
edge of the crater. Finally, standing upon the rotten foothold
afforded by the latter he looks down into what appears to be a
deep dark well from which small quantities of sulphur-laden gas
escape. Around him on the margin jets of steam arise; the ground
on which he stands is hot, the boys carrying the canteens are far
below, the dry breeze helps the evaporation, and he realizes that
he is very, very thirsty. However, the view from the top repays
all effort. The entire southern portion of Luzon is visible,
stretching away in a succession of fields, forests, and diminutive
villages, to the straits of San Bernardino, across which Samar
may be seen, and even Leyte, on a clear day. The lake of Bato,
the interisland waters, and finally Burias are seen to the west;
to the north there appears apparently one unbroken stretch of
land with here and there a glimpse of the sea; and the Gulf of
Albay with the towns of Legaspi, Tabaco, and Daraga, as well
as the smaller islands to the east, seem to be almost within a
stone's throw. I have been high up on the slopes of Etna, at the
entrance to the Val del Bobe, from which many travelers maintain
the finest in the world is to be obtained, but I certainly think
that from the summit of Mayon the vista surpasses the one from
its sister volcano in Sicily.... Mayon Volcano is decidedly one
of the show places of the Philippines, and the wonder is that many
of our visitors do not take the opportunity to make the ascent."

BULACAN PROVINCE is named from the Tagalog word "bulac" meaning "cotton" which was once the principal product of the region. Together with the Provinces of Pampanga, Tarlac, and Nueva Ecija, the province forms what is commonly known as the region of Central Luzon.

[Description and History]

The soil, which is of alluvial and volcanic origin, is rich. Rice, corn, sugar, pineapples, bananas, betel nut, mangoes, and all sorts of vegetables are raised in the well irrigated and low-lying lands. The nipa swamps which supply most of the nipa thatches, vinegar, and alcohol are the principal stand-by of a great many people. The forests cover over 89,980 hectares and yield good commercial timber and many minor forest products.

Aside from agriculture and mining, the industries of the province are making hats (Baliuag) and silk textiles, weaving, tanning, fish breeding, distilling alcohol, and furniture-making. Baliuag, Meycauayan, Obando, Polo, Hagonoy, and San Miguel are the centers of these industries.

In the events which followed the arrival of the British in 1762, the province figured conspicuously, serving as a center of resistance during British occupation of Manila. The Spanish Governor, Anda, just before the capitulation of Manila escaped to this province where he organized a government of his own to carry on hostilities against the British and to hold the country in its loyalty to Spain. In the encounters, however, between Anda's forces and the British, Anda's resistance was overcome, and Bulacan like the other provinces fell into British hands.

Some of the most notable events in the Philippine revolution took place in Bulacan Province. It was at Biac-na-Bato, in the mountains of Bulacan, where in December of 1897 the famous Pact of Biac-na-Bato was concluded, and the town of Malolos was for some time the capital of the Philippine Republic. Here, in the historic church of Barasoain, the Congress which drafted the Constitution of the Republic held its sessions. Conspicuous figures of the revolution like M. H. del Pilar and Mariano Ponce whose names are connected with the period of propaganda are sons of this province.

[Attractions]

Among the other attractions are the Mineral Baths at Marilao, on the Manila north road, and Sibul Springs near San Miguel de Mayumo. This is a popular health resort only about three hours ride from Manila. The water of the springs have enjoyed a considerable reputation for a long time. They are very beneficial in diseases of the intestinal tract, especially those of a chronic and catarrhal nature. Owing to the gases which the water contains the baths are most refreshing.

PAMPANGA PROVINCE is said to be the lowest and most level of all the provinces. It is the chief sugar raising province in Luzon. Some of the islands' modern sugar centrals are there. Besides farming, sugar making, lumbering, and fishing, the people are engaged in several other industries such as distillation of alcohol, buri hat making, and pottery.

[Historical Incidents]

About the middle of the seventeenth century, two great rebellions broke out in the province. The first of these took place in 1645 as a result of the injustices connected with the collection of tributes. It spread quickly and extended to Zambales. The second revolt took place fifteen years later as a result of the forcible employment of natives in the work of cutting timber and of the failure of the Government to pay for large amounts of rice collected in Pampanga for the use of the royal officials. The leader of the rebellion was Francisco Maniago. It spread rapidly among the inhabitants of the towns along the banks of the Pampanga River, and was only suppressed after drastic measures were taken by Governor-General de Lara.

Pampanga was one of the first provinces to start the Revolution. During the early part of the war Mariano Llanera commanded the Revolutionary forces. Later Tiburcio Hilario took possession of the province as governor in the name of the Revolutionary Government.

[Attractions]

Among the attractions are the sugar centrals, Camp Stotsenberg, one of the principal Army posts and an airplane station of the United States, dome-shaped Mount Arayat, about 3,300 feet in height and fairly easy to climb, and San Fernando, the capital, with its handsome capitol and school buildings grouped about the pretty plaza.

Arayat, a picturesque village lying at the foot of the mountain of that name is an ideal spot for those desiring to camp out. Nearby is the little barrio of Baño where there is an ancient tile bath constructed by the Spanish Friars. It consists of a tile lined tank some forty feet in length and of varying depths, filled by a crystal-clear spring which gushes into it from a grassy bank just above.

Mount Arayat is a perfect cone that rises majestically from the immense plain of Central Luzon, and is visible for miles around, presenting the same conical shape no matter from what direction viewed.

Several trails lead to the top of the mountain from where a wonderful panorama can be seen. It was an insurgent stronghold during the war, but its heights were scaled by American troops and its defenders dispersed. Scientists state that the mountain is an extinct volcano and local tradition has it that the original town of Arayat was destroyed by an eruption and covered by ashes.

TARLAC PROVINCE is also in the central plain of Luzon. The province has two distinct geographical areas. The northern and eastern parts consists of an extensive plain while the rest is covered with mountains which abound in timber suitable for building material and furniture making. The minor forest products are anahaw, palasan, rattan, honey and bojo for sawali.

There was an uprising in this province somewhere in 1762 headed by Juan de la Cruz Palaris. In 1896 the province was one of the original eight provinces where a state of war was declared to be in existence against the Spaniards. When Malolos was evacuated by the Philippine Revolutionary Government, the town of Tarlac became for a time the central headquarters.

Among the attractions are the medicinal springs in O'Donell in the municipality of Capas and those of Sinait.

NUEVA ECIJA PROVINCE is the rice granary of the Philippine Islands, being first in the production of the cereal, Pangasinan coming second. The rolling hills towards the mountains are suitable for pasture lands. The mountains are thick with untouched forests that yield fine wood and other minor products. In the mountains and rivers gold is found. The province was one of the first eight provinces to raise the standard of revolt in 1896. It has a number of flourishing towns at present, due to the continuous boom in the rice market. There are many mineral hot springs, the ones at Bongabon and Pantabañgan being the most important. Among the attractions are the irrigation system in San Jose which supplies water over an extensive territory and the Government Agricultural School at Muñoz which is attended by many students from all the provinces, and which is noted for its unique method of practical instruction.

[Attractions]

BATAAN PROVINCE occupies the whole of the peninsula lying between the China Sea and Manila Bay. It is a province of various peculiar phenomena. Northwest of Dinalupihan is a small conical mountain, 250 meters high, which has a fresh water lake at the top. In the neighborhood of Malasimbo are a few shallow marshes, the shores and waters of which are tinted red by dust said to be formed from the remains of microscopic animalculæ. Near Orani is a bed of iron hydride which the people of the region used to make into paints for walls and carriages. There are also deposits of clay of which "pilones" are made. There is also a large deposit of shells which are burned for lime used in the indigo and sugar industries. On the shores of Orani is a fresh water spring that rises from a spot covered daily by the tides. Near the town of Orion is a quaking bog, impassable by either man or beast. Another, smaller one, is found in Ogon, Balanga.

[Historical Incidents]

During the first two decades of the seventeenth century, the coast of Bataan was more than once the scene of battles against the Dutch. The first of these encounters took place in 1600 off the coast of Mariveles. The Dutch were commanded by Admiral Van Noort, while the Spanish-Filipino army was led by the historian, Antonio de Morga, then an order of the Manila Real Audiencia. The Spanish-Filipino squadron suffered heavy losses, but the Dutch were nevertheless forced to retreat. Nine years later, the Dutch again appeared off the Mariveles coast. This time they were led by Admiral Wittert, against whom Governor Silva sent a hastily fitted out squadron of six small vessels manned by Spaniards and Filipinos. The Dutch were defeated. In spite of these reverses, the Dutch continued their hostile visits to the Philippines. In 1646, they bombarded Zamboanga, unsuccessfully attacked Cavite, and finally effected a landing in Abucay, Bataan. Here they committed depredations and massacred more than four hundred Filipino soldiers who had laid down their arms. They were not driven away until after a long siege.

[Mariveles]

The town of Mariveles and Mount Mariveles are the principal attractions. The town has an important harbor where the ships are detained and fumigated when necessary before entering or leaving Manila Bay. West of the town is a quarry of white stone called by the Spaniards, "mármol de Mariveles." This stone has served as material for the pedestal and column of the statue of Charles IV in Manila. A well near the quarry produces siliceous water.

There is a beautiful legend connected with the town of Mariveles. A Spanish girl by the name of Maria Velez, who was a nun in Santa Clara Convent, fell in love with a friar, with whom she later eloped to Kamaya, there to await a galleon on which they intended to secure passage for Acapulco. The elopement caused excitement in Manila, and the corregidor (magistrate) with a few men was sent to Kamaya in search of the refugees. It is said that in memory of the persons involved in this story Kamaya was given the name of Mariveles, the big island to the south was named Corregidor, the little island to the west was called Monja (nun) and another small island, off the Cavite coast, was called Fraile.

[Mount Mariveles]

Mount Mariveles rises in the midst of the whole peninsula of Bataan. It is about 4,700 feet in height and forms a conspicuous object from the city especially when illuminated by the brilliant hues of the sunset sky. Though once an active volcano its sides are now covered with vegetation and practically the whole of its slopes down to a very short distance off the shore are virgin tropical jungles. The ascent of the mountain can be conveniently made from a day and a half to two days from Lamao, where the Philippine Government maintains a scientific experimental farm. The trail up the mountain passes along a ridge with here and there steep but short slopes. As the ascent is made the trees become noticeably smaller and orchids, ferns, mosses and the like much more abundant. From the first peak 2,800 feet high, the traveler can obtain a view of what Agassiz termed the greatest wonders of nature--the sea, the mountains, and the tropical forests.

The view from the very top surpasses that from the first peak. To the east lies the bay, with Manila and Cavite in the distance; to the south nestles Corregidor Island with the surf beating its shores; beyond is the China Sea, dotted here and there with specks of vessels bound to and from Hongkong or the other islands; to the north and west is a semi-circle of forest-covered peaks, standing as sentinels guarding the amphitheater-like crater; and to the northeast lie the cultivated fields of rice and sugar cane, studded here and there with the church steeples that mark the sites of the towns.

ZAMBALES PROVINCE.--North of Bataan along the western coast of Luzon is the Province of Zambales. It has two important harbors that are well sheltered--Olongapo and Subic. Olongapo is a naval station which boasts of one of the largest floating dry docks in the world.

Zambales was also visited by the Dutch during the early part of the seventeenth century. It was in 1617 that Admiral Spielbergen, with a powerful fleet appeared off the coast of Playa Honda. The Government forces, under the command of Juan Ronquillo, sallied out and engaged the Dutch squadron. Spielbergen displayed much bravery, but was defeated.

[Naval Station]

The only points of particular interest are the Naval Station along the coast which is, however, practically abandoned, and the fortifications on Grande Island, at the entrance to the bay. To visit either of them permits from the military or naval authorities are necessary. The floating dry-dock Dewey whose voyage from the United States was a matter of much public interest in 1906 is now located here.

PANGASINAN PROVINCE is the second largest rice producing province in the archipelago. Tobacco and coconuts are also principal products. The swamp lands and the tide flats are sources of nipa thatches and alcohol. Mongo, cogon, sugar cane, and mangoes are also raised extensively.

[Salt Making and Industries]

Along the tidal flats, salt making is so universal that the province has been named "Pangasinan," meaning, "the place where there is salt." Large parts of these same tidal lands are converted into artificial fish ponds with suitable gates that admit water during high tide. Even as far south as Bayambang, the overflowed lands of the Agno River have been converted into similar ponds where quantities of fresh-water fish are obtained and shipped to Manila in large baskets containing water.

The famous Calasiao hat made from the leaf of the buri palm comes from Pangasinan. Mat-making is an industry in Bani and Bolinao. Lingayen uses the palm fiber for making sugar sacks and San Carlos for the "salacot" or native helmet. Calasiao, Mañgaldan, and San Carlos prepare the "tabo" or native cup from the coconut shell. Binmaley and Dagupan manufacture the "sueco" (wooden shoe), from the woods cut in the Zambales mountains. San Carlos, Binmaley, Santa Barbara, Malasiqui, and Bayambang have brickyards and manufactories of pottery. Mañgaldan is famous for its indigo blue and blue-black dyes.

[Historical Events]

Historically the province is important in that it was there that in 1574 the Chinese pirate Limahong after his repulse in Manila appeared with his vast army at the mouth of the Agno River and tried to found a settlement on its banks. This attempt, however, was a failure.

During the period from 1660 to about 1765, two important revolts occurred in Pangasinan. The first was in 1660 led by Andres Malong, who attempted to establish a great kingdom with Binalatoñgan as capital and comprising all of northern and western Luzon as far south as Zambales and Pampanga. The second revolt was led by the famous Pangasinan leader, Juan de la Cruz Palaris, often known as "Palaripar." It took place in 1762, caused by the injustices of the tribute. Its center was also at Binalatoñgan. It lasted over two years, ending with the capture and execution of Palaris in 1765.

MOUNTAIN PROVINCE.--The Mountain Province is the third largest province in the Philippines. It comprises the vast mountainous territory between the Provinces of Cagayan, Isabela, Nueva Vizcaya, and the Ilocos. It is made up of several sub-provinces.

Bakun district in the sub-province of Amburayan has some of the most striking rice terraces thousands of feet high. It is a region surrounded by high precipices, so that parts of the trails to Bakun consist of ladders hundreds of feet high on the sides of the cliffs.

The sub-province of Apayao contains one of the richest virgin forests in the Philippines but because of the difficulty of transportation lumber is not cut on a commercial scale. There are also deposits of copper and ore as well as limestone but they are little explored.

The sub-province of Benguet is at present the most important gold-mining district in the Mountain Province. The Igorots had exploited the mines long before the coming of the Spaniards and it is said that because of the experience already acquired, the Igorots are today more skillful gold miners than those who use their knowledge of chemistry and mining engineering. Hot springs are found at Klondikes, Daklan, and Bungias. Coal deposits exist in Mount Kapangan.

The city of Baguio, the capital of Benguet, is situated in the southwestern part of the province. About 160 miles to the north of Manila, it is built high up among the Benguet mountains. It ranges in elevation from 4,500 to over 5,500 feet, and is surrounded practically on all sides by high mountains. The city at present is the summer capital of the Philippines. For a fuller description see page 61.

The sub-province of Bontok is exceedingly mountainous. Besides agriculture and pottery making, the principal industries consist of basket making, lumbering, weaving, and metal working. The women by means of their hand-looms weave a great deal of high colored cloth out of yarn which they get by barter from the people of Isabela and Abra. The men manufacture head-axes and knives.

[Ifugao Rice Terraces]

The sub-province of Ifugao is famous for the remarkable rice terraces along its mountain sides. Nowhere in the Philippines is irrigation developed to the point reached in this sub-province. There are approximately 100 square miles of irrigated rice terraces that are watered by great ditches several miles long. The terraces are all buttressed with stone walls which measure a total length of about 12,000 miles. These terraces have been built without any knowledge of engineering. It is believed that the construction of the present terraces and irrigation systems has taken from 1,200 to 1,500 years of time. Generation after generation had toiled on them patiently. The Ifugaos have so utilized every drop of available water supply that in most places no more ditches can be constructed for lack of water.

The terraces are built of stones mined near by, of which there are extensive areas. No animals are used for field work everything being done by hand. Salt springs and deposits of rock salts are also found in several places.

The sub-province of Lepanto is next to Ifugao in the number of rice terraces. Camotes, pineapples, sugar cane, and cotton are also raised. Lepanto and Benguet are the regions having the most minerals in Luzon. All the mountain ranges have millions of pesos worth of copper ore deposits. Mankayan is the center of the copper mining industry. Here the Spaniards found the natives using the Chinese method of mine smelting.

[Gold Mining and Industries]

Suyok is the gold mining center. Here is found one of the most striking features of the world. The whole side of a range of mountains, about 15 kilometers across, slides down to the valley, and on this slide, named the Palidan Slide, are found parts of gold veins which must have their connection somewhere else.

The household industries are well developed. Clay products, such as pots, jars, and pipes are made for export. The men are experts in metal-working. They make weapons, pots, and spoons out of copper which they mine and smelt by native process. They also manufacture iron or steel spears, bolos, knives, and tools of all sorts, which they sell to or barter with the natives of the lowlands. They also carve wood into images, bowls, ornaments, and other utensils.

The women make sufficient cloths for their own use and for sale. They spin, dye, and weave the cotton raised there.

LA UNION PROVINCE occupies a narrow strip of land immediately north of the Province of Pangasinan and west of the Mountain Province. Tobacco, rice, sisal, hemp, sugar, coconuts, corn, and cotton form the most important products. At the foot of Mount Bayabas is a hot salt spring. The Manila Railroad operates lines as far as Bauang. San Fernando, the capital, may be reached either by boat or by automobile from Bauang.

[Industries]

ILOCOS SUR PROVINCE.--Immediately north of La Union is the Province of Ilocos Sur, a region specially adapted to the cultivation of maguey the fiber of which constitutes the principal export. But because the soil will not support the population a great many persons have turned to manufacture and trade. This has given rise to industrial specialization in different towns. Those along the coast extract salt from the sea water and export it in great quantities to inland provinces. In San Esteban, there is a quarry of stone from which mortars and grindstones are made. San Vicente, Vigan, and San Ildefonso specialize in woodworking, the first in carved wooden boxes and images and the others in household furniture. Most of the wood used in these handicrafts is imported from Abra and Cagayan. Bantay is the home of skilled silversmiths. In the other towns saddles, harness, slippers, mats, pottery, and hats are made and exported to some extent. Sisal and hemp fiber extraction and weaving of cotton cloth are common household industries throughout the province.

The province embraces within its confines some of the oldest towns in the Philippines. Besides Vigan several other towns already existed in this region before the close of the sixteenth century; namely, Santa, Narvacan, Bantay, Candon, and Sinait.

Just above Narvacan, on the highway which runs along the beach is an ancient watch-tower and a stretch of road bordered by a curious brick retaining wall of Spanish construction. Numerous ancient shrines are also to be seen along the Ilocos roads where the pious prayed that Heavenly favor might be shown them in their journeys.

The towns of Paoay and Batac are noted for their magnificent churches which are worth traveling a long distance to see.

[Historical]

Two important uprisings are recorded in the history of Ilocos Sur--the Malong rebellion in 1660 and the Silang rebellion in 1763. Malong, who was trying to carve out a kingdom for himself in Pangasinan and the neighboring territory, sent his two able generals, "Count" Gumapos and Jacinto Macasiag to the north to effect the conquest of this region. Gumapos and Macasiag, however, proceeded only as far as Vigan, from which place they were recalled by Malong. Diego Silang, who led the great rebellion of 1762, dominated the greater part of Ilocos Sur. He fought pitched battles with the Spanish forces at Vigan and Cabugao and practically succeeded in establishing a government of his own in Ilocos Sur.

ILOCOS NORTE PROVINCE occupies the whole of the coastal plain in the northwestern corner of Luzon. This province is noted for the many revolts that occurred there, from the beginning of Spanish rule to the first decades of the nineteenth century. The two most important were those caused by the general discontent over the tobacco monopoly and over the wine monopoly, which occurred in 1788 and 1807 respectively.

The mountains surrounding the province are covered with fine timber trees. Resin, honey, and wax are also found on their slopes. A few grottos or caves are found in the interior. There are a number of stone quarries. Limestone is found in at least three places, while the beach supplies a great amount of coral for road building. There are also deposits of manganese and asbestos which are being exploited.

The weaving of textiles--towels, blankets, wearing apparel, and handkerchiefs--is the principal industry among women. Mat-making and the pottery industry are also well developed.

Laoag, the capital, has a population of about 40,000. It is entered from the south by crossing the longest bridge in the islands. Laoag plaza, on which the provincial buildings front, is well cared for and the ancient bell tower on the opposite side is said to resemble a famous Italian campanile.

Bangui is "farthest north" in Luzon where the highway ends. Its climate is cool resembling that of a California summer. Woolen clothes may be worn with comfort in the cold season. It is always swept by cool breezes. The view of sea and land from the crest of a hill just before Bangui is entered will hold the attention of even the most travelled tourist.

ABRA PROVINCE is south of Ilocos Norte. It is a beautiful mountainous region. It is considered to be the seismic center of Northern Luzon. It is drained by the voluminous Abra River which is the highway to the Province of Ilocos Sur. The valley drained by this river and its tributaries is covered with luxuriant vegetation. Corn, tobacco, and rice are the most important products. The mountains are covered with forests containing timber eminently suitable for construction. There is gold dust along the Binoñgan River in the town of Lacub. Of mineral springs that of the Iomin River is the most important. This has a temperature ranging from 70 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit with a flow of 3 to 4 cubic centimeters per second.

[Cagayan River]