Chapter IX: The Provinces--Beauty Spots (2)

THE CAGAYAN VALLEY.--Adjoining the Mountain Province in the very northeastern corner of Luzon is the Province of Cagayan. Together with the neighboring Provinces of Isabela and Nueva Vizcaya to the south it forms what is known as the Cagayan Valley. Something of these great tobacco provinces can be seen by taking the steamer from Manila to Aparri and then sailing up the Cagayan River. This is a Mississippi, a Nile of a river, navigable by interisland steamers for twenty-five miles. Its chief importance lies in its periodical inundations, which, leaving their deposits of alluvial loam along the strips of lowland by the banks of the stream, make it the finest tobacco country of this part of the world. This crop has for a very long time been the staple source of wealth, though other plants can be cultivated with success. How great is the productivity of the soil, despite the exhausting effect of tobacco upon it, may be gathered from the following remark made in an official report. "The 'good land' was understood to be those parts fertilized annually by the overflow of the river.... The other land was not considered first class because it could only produce tobacco for ten or twelve years without enrichment, the subject of fertilizing never having received any attention from the planters of that region."

By small boats it is possible to reach Cauayan, Isabela. From there the road is so nearly completed that autos can be taken to Santa Fé, Nueva Vizcaya, where it divides, one branch, an automobile road, leading to San Jose, Nueva Ecija, and thence to Manila; the other a horseback trail to San Nicolas, Pangasinan, a short and easy stage to the railroad. Among the sights is a salt-incrusted mountain, a dazzling landmark for miles around in Nueva Vizcaya. The people thereabouts often place small objects, such as baskets, under the drip of the salt springs. These become coated with salt in such a manner that they appear to be of pure marble.

[Isabela and Palanan]

Like many other provinces Isabela Province was the scene of important uprisings. In 1763, for example, stirred by the influence of the Silang rebellion in Ilocos, the people of Isabela revolted, led on by Dabo and Juan Morayac. The centers of rebellion were Ilagan and Cabagan. Again in 1785, another revolt broke out. This time the rebellion was led by Labutao and Baladon. The rebellion was caused by the grievances of the people against the collection of tribute and the enforcement of the tobacco monopoly.

The historical spot of Isabela is the little town of Palanan on Palanan Bay, on the Pacific Coast. The bay is exposed to the weather and the anchorage is reefy, while the town is separated from the rest of the province by great mountains which make communication and travel difficult and dangerous. It was in this town that General Emilio Aguinaldo retreated and maintained his headquarters until his capture by General Funston by a ruse in March, 1901.

[Salinas Salt Springs]

NUEVA VIZCAYA PROVINCE is south of Cagayan on the Pacific Coast of Luzon. It contains vast areas of fertile public lands suitable for rice, tobacco, sugar, coconuts, beans, potatoes, coffee, and abaca, practically untouched, as well as virgin forests filled with all classes of valuable timber. The province is the gateway to and granary of the tobacco-producing provinces to the north. The climatic conditions of the province are unsurpassed. There are places the climate of which is similar to that of Baguio. There are also places of scenic beauty, such as Salinas, which are not inferior to world-famous objectives of tourist travel. The salt springs at Salinas have been from time immemorial the source of this essential food element to the peoples of even distant regions.

MINDORO PROVINCE is named after the Spanish phrase "mina de oro" or "gold mine," as mining is said to have once been a great source of wealth in the region. The province is co-extensive in territory with the Island of Mindoro, southwest of Luzon. Rice, copra, abacá, sugar, and corn are the principal products. Along the coast are extensive nipa swamps.

[Mineral Deposits]

Gold is found in the Rivers of Binabay, Baco, Bongabong, and Magasauan Tubig. Coal of good quality is found north and west of Bulalacao, white marbles northwest of Mount Halcon, slate deposits near the headquarters of Pagaban and other rivers of the western coast, sulphur, and gypsum on Lake Naujan, and south of Calapan, hot springs between the sea and the northwestern part of Lake Naujan, and salt springs in Damagan, Bulalacao. Guano deposits are found in the caves.

[Submarine Garden]

An interesting two-day trip from Manila is that to the landlocked harbor of Puerto Galera at the northern end of the island. The attraction of the place lies in the fine scenery along the coast and in the unusual transparency of the water, which permits visitors, especially if glass-bottomed boats are at hand, to inspect the varied life which teems in the depths below. There is here as on the coast of Batangas a marine garden of bewildering and exquisite beauty. Nature seems to have made special effort to crowd beneath a few acres of sea all of the most entrancing wonders of the deep. There is coral of every design, color, and variety. There are thousands of plants which present a wealthy and gorgeous harmony of color. There are myriads of wonderful fish which outrival the coral and the vegetation in variety and richness of hue. Some are as green as grass, others as gold as a guinea.

There are at present no regular boats making the trip and special arrangements will have to be made in order to be able to visit the place.

PALAWAN.--The province of Palawan occupies the long and narrow Island of Palawan situated between Mindoro on the north and Borneo on the south. Besides this long and narrow island the province includes about 200 other small islets. A great part of the island is still unexplored, the island itself not being accessible to the traveler. The chief industries of the people are fishing, gathering trepangs, sea-shells, and edible birds' nest on the limestone cliffs near the shore.

The proximity of the island with the Dutch East Indies and to Borneo puts it in a very advantageous position commercially. It is also favored by valleys of great fertility and by well protected harbors.

[Iwahig Penal Colony]

Among the places of special interest in Palawan may be mentioned Balabac on the island of the same name. It was to this island that many of the Filipinos were exiled in 1896 because of alleged complicity in the Katipunan which in August of that year raised the standard of revolt. The Iwahig Penal Colony about 8 miles from Puerto Princesa, the capital, is also easy of access. This is a novel experiment in the reformatory treatment of criminals. Here have been gathered under the name of "colonists" over 500 convicts who have conducted themselves well at Bilibid prison in Manila. They are put at entire liberty without any armed guard or any special restraint. All of the petty officers are prisoners as are also all the police. Agriculture and various trades are carried on, and, under certain conditions, the prisoners are given an allotment of land and their families are allowed to join them.

[Culion Leper Colony]

To the north of the province is the little Island of Culion where the leper colony is situated. There is no regular transportation except by the government cutter that makes periodical trips, and the colony itself is not ordinarily open to visitors. There are about 2,000 inmates in the colony and they are well taken care of by the Philippine Government, many having been cured completely of the unfortunate malady. In minor matters the lepers form a self-governing community electing their own council and supplying the policemen and other subordinate officials.

[Underground River]

On the west coast of Palawan, almost uninhabited and still largely uncharted, there is a very remarkable underground river. This has been explored several times by Government officials, a launch having in one instance entered the mouth and proceeded under the mountain for more than 2 miles. At present the river can only be reached by taking a long and expensive trip away from the main routes of travel, but it is destined some time to be known as one of the remarkable sights of the world.

ROMBLON PROVINCE.--The Province of Romblon has nothing of special interest to the tourist except the town of Romblon which has one of the best natural harbors in the islands and the extensive marble deposits which have been quarried and used for years and are now disappearing.

THE VISAYAS.--The "Visayas" is the general name given to the central portion of the Philippine Archipelago. It includes the large Islands of Panay, Negros, Cebu, Bohol, Leyte, and Samar, and a very great number of smaller islands and islets. Though greatly broken up by mountains, these contain the most thickly populated districts in the Islands and constitute by far the largest area inhabited by a single stock (the Visayan) and speaking, though with many dialect variations, one language. Within this area are the best sugar and some of the best hemp lands, and many other important products of the Islands grow well. To the tourist, perhaps, they do not, outside of the cities of Cebu and Iloilo, abound in "sights." But the larger islands exhibit many fine vistas; and the smaller ones, mostly mountainous, form with the surrounding tropical waters a combination which, for color and variety of outline, rivals the Inland Sea of Japan at its best.

SAMAR PROVINCE comprises the whole Island of Samar which is the fourth largest island in the Archipelago. It lies southeast of Luzon and is separated from the Province of Sorsogon by the San Bernardino Strait. The island is very rugged and nearly all of the towns are located near the coast. Another characteristic feature of the mountain regions is the presence of caves of which the most noted is the Sohotan cave near Basey. River transportation is the chief means of communication.

[Where the Spaniards first landed]

To Samar belongs the distinction of being the first island of the Philippine Archipelago to be discovered by the Spaniards. On March 16, 1521, Ferdinand Magellan sighted the island, and the day following, landed on the little island of Homonhon. In 1649 the greatest part of the Island of Samar became involved in a great rebellion which became the signal of general uprising in the Visayan Islands and in parts of Mindanao. The cause of the uprising was enforced labor in connection with shipbuilding. It lasted about a year. The rebels fortified themselves in the mountains and there established an independent settlement. From here they sallied forth from time to time and harassed the Spanish forces sent against them.

ILOILO AND CAPIZ.--The Provinces of Iloilo and Capiz occupy the entire eastern portion of the Island of Panay, immediately south of Romblon Island. They consist of an extensive plain extending far back to the foot of a range of mountains that traverses the western part of the island.

The Panay line of the Philippine Railway Company cuts directly through this plain extending as far as Capiz, the capital of the province of the same name, immediately north of Iloilo Province.

[Attractions]

The trip over the railroad takes the traveler past several points of interest. Just beyond Ventura there are seen to the west of the tract a series of high mountain cliffs of white coral rock. These are honeycombed by caves of wonderful structure and great beauty. One of the most beautiful resembles an immense stage, set with elaborate scenery. Another of great extent and variety is entered by descending through a shaft resembling a well. An hour's walk from the entrance leads the traveler to a place where the roof has collapsed and trees have grown to gigantic heights, the cave continuing to an unknown distance.

The natural bridge of Suhut in the town of Dumalag, Capiz, is also worth visiting. Near the natural bridge is a spring of sulphurous and salty water.

The City of Iloilo is described elsewhere, page 64.

[Haciendas and Sugar Centrals]

THE ISLAND OF NEGROS.--This island is divided into two provinces--Occidental Negros and Oriental Negros. Occidental Negros is about three hours' ride by boat from the City of Iloilo. It is the most important sugar producing district in the Philippines. About 75 per cent of all the exported sugar comes from this province. Bacolod, Bago, Talisay, San Carlos, Binalbagan, and La Carlota are the centers of the sugar industry. There are about 518 haciendas and about half a dozen sugar centrals in actual operation. The sugar centrals are well worth the visit and the traveler should not miss them. Other principal places of interest are Mount Canlaon, an active volcano and the Mambucal Hot Springs, which is recommended by medical authorities.

The trip to Oriental Negros has to be made direct from Manila, although there are boats from Cebu and Iloilo calling occasionally at Dumaguete, the capital.

[Silliman Institute]

The principal points of interest in Dumaguete are the old watch-tower on the plaza, built to guard against surprise by piratical Moro fleets, and the buildings of the Silliman Institute. This latter is a high-grade Protestant endowed school, with preparatory, classical, and industrial departments; in it are enrolled some 500 students, representing a wide range of localities. It was founded in 1901 with a gift of Dr. Horace B. Silliman, of New York, and is now maintained by the Presbyterian Board of Foreign Missions. The buildings are located on the beach, about five minutes' walk from the central part of the town.

[Other Places of Interest]

There are a few other places of some interest within a moderate distance of Dumaguete. Among these are some hot springs, about 6 kilometers (about 4 miles) west of the town. There is a fairly good horse trail to within a few minutes' walk of them, and the scenery along the route is picturesque. Of more interest is the active Volcano of Magaso, which lies 14 kilometers to the south. It is accessible by a good trail; and a horse can be ridden to the top of the crater. The descent into the latter is not difficult.

CEBU PROVINCE.--The Island of Cebu which is co-extensive with the province of that name was discovered by Magellan on April 7, 1521. The town was then under the rule of Raja Humabon, a powerful chief who had eight subordinate chieftains and a force of some two thousand warriors under him. Magellan made friends with Humabon and succeeded in baptizing him, his wife, and as many as eight hundred of his men. Magellan also endeavored to bring the people of Mactan under Spanish influence. In this attempt, he was killed while engaged in battle with the people of Opon who were then under Chief Lapulapu.

[First Spanish Settlement]

Forty-four years after Magellan's time, Legaspi occupied the town of Cebu which was then under the rule of Tupas. Here Legaspi founded the first Spanish settlement in the Philippines which he called San Miguel. The town, which was planned in the shape of a triangle, was defended on the land side by a palisade and on the two sides facing the sea by artillery. The name of the town was later changed to the City of the Most Holy Name of Jesus "in honor of an image of the Child Jesus which a soldier had found in one of the houses."

The establishment of the Spanish settlement in Cebu brought to this island the Portuguese who then disputed the ownership of the Archipelago. In 1566, 1568, and 1570, Portuguese expeditionary forces were sent to Cebu to drive away the Spaniards. First in 1568 and again in 1570, the Portuguese blockaded Cebu, but in both cases the blockade resulted in a failure.

The plains yield as many as three crops of corn a year. Coconuts, sugar cane, abaca, peanuts, bananas, pineapples, camotes, and tobacco are other products.

[Industries]

The island is rich in minerals, of which gold and coal are the most important. Industries are well developed in Cebu. Good fishing banks found along the coast furnish the people with food for local use and for export. Hogs and goats are raised for local use. Poultry raising enables the people to export chickens and eggs to neighboring islands and even to Manila. Cotton cloth, woven for local use and sinamay made from the fiber extracted from banana and pineapple leaves, are exported. Much tuba, a native wine, is collected in the coconut regions.

The town of Cebu, however, existed as a prosperous native settlement before the discovery of the Philippines by Magellan. For a description of the places of interest in the city, see page 63.

BOHOL PROVINCE, the island southeast of Cebu, is noted for the two big rebellions against the Spaniards which occurred in 1622 and 1744, respectively. The leader of the revolt in 1622, which was really an armed protest against Jesuitical influence, was one by the name of Tamblot. The uprising rapidly spread throughout the entire island; only the towns of Loboc and Baclayon remained peaceful. The rebels retreated "to the summit of a rugged and lofty hill, difficult of access," and there fortified themselves. It took the government six months to suppress this rebellion.

[Rebellions]

Another rebellion, no less formidable than the Tamblot uprising, broke out in 1744. It gained strength in 1750 under the leadership of Dagohoy, who for a long time was the whole soul of the movement. The rebellion affected almost the entire island and lasted for over eighty years. The government sent several expeditions to put it down, but without success. The rebels established a local government and lived as an independent people. This was, perhaps, the most successful revolt the Filipinos ever conducted from the viewpoint of duration of resistance.

[Attractions]

Among the attractions are the mineral springs in Guindulman as well as those in San Juan, Candon, Napo, Lubod, and Cambalaguin which are reputed to be efficacious for curing skin diseases. Edible birds' nests are gathered in the Cananoan Cave. Other caves are found in Baclayon, Guindulman, Jagna, and Sierra Bullones. "Buri," "ticog," and "salacot" hats are made in almost every town. The weaving of "piña" and "sinamay" cloth is a specialty in Baclayon, Loboc, Jagna, and Duero, and "saguaran" weaving in Talibon, Inabanga, Baclayon, and Jetafe. The commercial exploitation of the pearl and shell banks in the Bohol seas has only recently been begun. The catching of the flying lemur and the tanning and preparation of its hide is a new occupation. Most of the towns are found along the coast so that a great portion of the inhabitants are engaged in coastwise and interisland trade.

LEYTE PROVINCE and island, one of the largest and most fertile regions in the Visayan group, is situated southwest of Samar and is separated from Samar by the San Juanico Strait, said to be one of the most beautiful water-ways in the world. Hemp and copra are the most important products exported. Coal is found in the towns of Leyte, Ormoc, and Jaro. Asphalt is being mined in Leyte for street paving purposes. Gold is found in Pintuyan and San Isidro; sulphur in Mahagnao; mineral springs in the crater of Mahagnao, Ormoc, San Isidro, Mainit, and Carigara.

[Where Mass First Celebrated]

Limasawa, a little island south of Leyte, has the unique distinction of being the place where mass was first celebrated in the Philippines. Toward the end of March, 1521, Magellan discovered this little island, which then appeared to be a prosperous community. It was here that Magellan met Raja Calambu and Ciagu, who feasted the Spaniards and exchanged presents with them. The Island of Leyte itself, then called Tandaya, was the first island of the Philippine Archipelago to receive the name of "Felipina."

THE ISLAND OF MINDANAO.--This island is the second largest and potentially perhaps the richest of the archipelago. It is divided into seven provinces--Zamboanga, Misamis, Lanao, Bukidnon, Cotabato, Davao, Agusan, and Surigao.

[Origin of Name]

The term "Mindanao" or "Maguindanao" was originally given to the town now known as Cotabato and its immediate vicinity. (See page 104.) The word is derived from the root "danao" which means inundation by a river, lake, or sea. The derivative "Mindanao" means "inundated" or "that which is inundated." "Maguindanao" means "that which has inundated."

[Islam]

Islam was successfully introduced and firmly established in Mindanao by Sharif Mohammed Kabungsuwan. He is believed to have established himself in this region toward the end of the fifteenth century. He was also the founder of the Sultanate so that today most of the inhabitants of Mindanao are Mohammedans. The Christian population came from the northern islands. They immigrated into Mindanao to exploit the rich sections of the islands. They have built their homes along the river basins and near the bays accessible to commerce. In many cases they hold the important municipal positions such as tax-collectors and teachers. The Moros who inhabit the interior valleys have acknowledged the authority of their Christian brothers from the north and are living peacefully with them.

THE PROVINCE OF ZAMBOANGA includes the whole of the western peninsula of the island. The central portion is covered with dense forests containing much valuable hardwood timber. Abaca and copra are the principal products though sugar, cacao, hemp, and rice are cultivated to some extent. Among the important forest products are guttapercha for insulating cable wires and almaciga for varnish. Basilan Island nearby is covered with forests, and lumber mills are in operation. There are also plantations for the growing of rubber in this island.

As a whole the interior of the province is not at present very accessible, and most of the attractions center in the capital City of Zamboanga at the extreme end of the peninsula, which is described on page 65.

COTABATO PROVINCE is in the southwestern portion of Mindanao. The term "Cotabato" signifies a "stone fort." Cotabato is the capital and is located near the mouth of the river called Cotabato also. The Cotabato River system, though not as swift as the Rhine River of Germany, serves the same purpose to Cotabato as the Rhine to Germany in the sense that it forms the chief means of communication and transportation for conveying finished products and raw materials from the different towns to the coast.

On the valley of this river are some of the most fertile and productive regions of the whole Philippine Archipelago, although due to the scarcity of population and of laborers very little cultivation has been done.

On the eastern side of the valley are many extensive but shallow swamps, such as the Liguasan and Libungan. Large lakes as Buluan and Cebu, and many small ones abound. These natural basins yield an immense wealth for the country. On the marshes, mangroves and nipa grow in abundance, while the lakes teem with the rarest and choicest fish.

[Attractions]

Sulphur is abundant near and around Mount Apo, an extinct volcano, 9,610 feet high, being the highest peak in the archipelago. The difficult ascent and the lack of transportation facilities make exploitation impossible at present. Mineral springs can be found near the town of Cotabato.

The land is well adopted to the cultivation of coconut and rice. The mountains are densely wooded. With the exception of the small portion around Sarangani Bay where logging is being carried on most of the forested area is not yet exploited. The most important forest products, which are at present exported in great quantities, are the candlenut, almaciga, and guttapercha.

[Fertility]

BUKIDNON PROVINCE occupies the great fertile plateau of Mindanao immediately north of Cotabato. It contains immense areas of fertile soil unsurpassed for grazing and general farming. There are at least 300,000 hectares of open grass-covered land which would yield rich returns under the plow. The Bukidnons themselves, learning to use modern agricultural implements, are taking advantage of their opportunities, this being clearly evidenced by the beautiful fields of corn surrounding their settlements, by the increased plantings of rice and camotes, and by the great increase in the exportation of hemp and coffee. The lower levels of Bukidnon produce the best grade of hemp in northern Mindanao. Corn grows to a height of 13 feet on the Bukidnon plateaus, the stalks supporting two ears. Two crops may be grown annually.

There are some Manobos and a few Moros in the province, but the greater part of the inhabitants are Bukidnons who are timid, peaceable farmers.

LANAO PROVINCE.--Between Bukidnon and Zamboanga is the Province of Lanao which includes the region centering about the large Lake of Lanao. It consists for the most part of a plateau (altitude, about 2,200 feet), with an invigorating climate and fine stretches of grazing land. The soil is in the main excellent and, at various altitudes, produces a very great variety of crops, including the usual staples, some fruits like the "durian," unknown or rare in the northern islands, coffee, and a variety of wild rubber, for which plant, in its cultivated form, the district is well adapted.

For many years this valuable country has been the scene of the lawlessness of the Lanao Moros, but after the institution of civil government among them they have settled down and are living peacefully side by side with the immigrants from the northern islands. The same is true with the other provinces in the Island of Mindanao.

Much of the scenery in the Lanao Province is said to be among the finest in the world, while the Moros are extremely interesting and manufacture many small articles of great artistic value, especially brasswork and weapons.

[Attractions]

Among the attractions is Lake Lanao, believed to have been formed as a result of the subsidence of the land accompanying the eruption of the volcanoes in the surrounding country. There are three of these volcanoes, which are still active. The climate, especially around Lake Lanao, is very cool. Dansalan nearby is the favorite resort of the people in the lowlands of Mindanao and bears the promise of being the Baguio of the southern islands.

Other attractions are the Maria Cristina Falls about 191 feet high and the Mataling Fall about 40 feet in height, both of which are on the road to the lake.

DAVAO PROVINCE occupies the southeastern part of Mindanao. Though perhaps less fertile for some crops than the neighboring Province of Cotabato, Davao comprises the finest hemp land in the archipelago and there is a considerable colony of Japanese, American, and Filipino planters.

More than half of the population, however, are pagans, the Mandayas and Bagobos predominating in number. These two pagan tribes have the best primitive civilization among all the non-Christian peoples of the archipelago. Their women weave excellent cloth which is dyed in curious and ornamental patterns and the men make daggers, spears, and other articles of metal.

The town of Davao is the capital and principal port. It is well laid out and has a number of interesting monuments.

AGUSAN PROVINCE, north of Davao, occupies the whole northern Valley of Agusan. The soil is of the greatest fertility, holding a constant moisture. The rainfall is very evenly distributed throughout the year, and there has been no drought or destructive typhoon recorded. Abaca and coconuts thrive well in this region. A splendid rice crop is produced without irrigation. Bananas, papayas, and other tropical fruits are grown in great abundance, the famous Mindanao papaya attaining its perfection in the region about Butuan.

The numerous lakes and the extensive area of swampy land are sources of incalculable wealth. Choicest fish abound in the lakes, while nipa from which tuba and alcohol are obtained, and mangroves for fuel and tanning purposes, grow wild in the fenlands.

Gold deposits exist in abundance. Most of these deposits are found in the mountains on the eastern side of the valley. The location of these mines is favorable, being near rivers. There are several gold mining claims at present under operation.

Butuan, the capital and most important town of the province, is near the mouth of the navigable Agusan River. This river port serves the same purpose for the settlements built along Agusan River and its tributaries, as the town of Cotabato to the well-scattered towns of the Cotabato Valley.

SURIGAO PROVINCE, north of Agusan, occupies the whole northeastern part of the Island of Mindanao. Abaca, copra, and corn are the most important agricultural products. There is much fine timber in the forests, the best obtainable equalling iron and concrete in durability. Gold is at present mined in some parts of the province.

THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO.--The Sulu Province includes all of the islands of the Sulu Archipelago, a region which is often visited by earthquakes, the Sulu Sea being the seismic center. The climate of this region is warm and moist, being near the equator.

Fishing is the most important industry. Jolo is the center for most of the pearling fleet. Sitanki, Omapui, Tumindao, Balimbing, Landubas, Laja, and Siasi are other important fishing centers. The sea turtle, fish of all kinds, and the trepang are caught. Beautiful trays and combs and other articles are made from the back of the sea turtle, and the fish and trepang are cured and exported.

The Sulu Archipelago, especially Jolo, the capital and principal port, trades with Zamboanga, Borneo, and Singapore. Chinese merchants traded with Sulu long before the arrival of Legaspi in the Philippines. When Manila and Cebu were yet small settlements, Jolo was already a city, the most important in the Philippines.

[Introduction of Mohammedanism]

Mohammedanism was introduced and firmly established in the Archipelago by three men--Makdum, Raja Baginda, and Abu Bakr. Makdum was a noted Arabian scholar who, after introducing Mohammedanism into Malacca, visited almost every island of the Sulu Archipelago toward the end of the fourteenth century and made numerous converts especially in Bevansa and Tapul. Raja Baginda, soon after the arrival of Makdum, came by way of Zamboanga and Basilan. He was of princely rank and is believed to have come accompanied by ministers of state. He settled in Bevansa and became the supreme ruler of Sulu. Abu Bakr, who seemed to have been quite a learned man, arrived in Bevansa about the middle of the fifteenth century. Here, he lived with Raja Baginda, teaching the people the Mohammedan religion. He later married Parasimuli, the daughter of Raja Baginda, and succeeded his father-in-law as sultan.

The reign of Abu Bakr (1450-1480) was noteworthy not only because of the firm establishment of Mohammedanism, but also because of the governmental reforms then effected. Abu Bakr reorganized the government of Sulu, dividing it into five main administrative districts, each under a Panglima. He promulgated a new code of laws which became the guide for all officials of the state. During his reign, Sulu's power was felt not only in Mindanao and the Visayas, but even in Luzon.

The administration of Governor-General Sande (1575-80) was the beginning of a continuous state of warfare between Spain and Sulu which lasted to within two decades before the end of the Spanish rule. Sande wanted to reduce Sulu to a subject state, impose tribute on its people, secure for the Spaniards the trade of the Archipelago, and convert the inhabitants to Catholicism. To attain these ends, he sent Captain Rodriguez de Figueroa to Sulu with a large army. This expedition, however, accomplished nothing beyond the arousing of the Sulus to hostility and the inception of numerous Moro raids on the Visayas and Luzon.

[The Sultan and His Present Position]

The whole Archipelago is still under the nominal sway of the Sultan of Sulu, who lives in the Island of Jolo and enjoys pensions from the Philippine Government and the British North Borneo Company. All of the Moros in Mindanao and in Sulu have long ago recognized the authority of the central Philippine Government in Manila, and the hostility which has existed between the Moros and the inhabitants of the northern islands during Spanish rule, has long passed away. The policy of attraction inaugurated by the Philippine Government has succeeded wonderfully. Disturbances among the Moros are now very few and far between. They have their own senator in the Philippine Senate and they have their own representatives in the House.

[Results of the Policy of Attraction]

Considering the past history of these southern islands, it is almost incredible that such results have become possible. Many of the non-Christians in the interior of Mindanao-Sulu have even changed their manner of dressing and have adopted the garb of the Christians, whom they are endeavoring to imitate as much as possible, mingling with them in their work, and assisting in maintaining law and order. The Moros themselves have changed a great deal; the juramentado (running amok) is practically a thing of the past; they show greater religious tolerance and a high sense of responsibility; they cooperate in every way possible with the Christians and the Government authorities in the maintenance of a government of law and order, and do everything they can to identify themselves with the inhabitants of the north. For this reason more beneficial and lasting changes have been accomplished in the last five years, in moral, social, and political respects, as well as in the material development of the people, than had been accomplished for several centuries past. This progress is principally due to the efforts of the Philippine Legislature, which furnished the Department of Mindanao and Sulu with large annual appropriations and thus made the policy of attraction a success.

[The town of Jolo]

The town of Jolo is the political and commercial center of the archipelago and is reached from Manila direct. The trip through island-studded Sulu Sea, is one of great scenic beauty.

Jolo consists of a picturesque little walled city and a considerable town outside. The population is cosmopolitan. The town is more Malayan, more Arabic, and more Oriental than Zamboanga. Thus it has many attractions for the traveler.

The part within the walls has excellent streets and walks and is adorned with parks, gardens, and fountains. One of the most curious sights is furnished by the half-tame deer, which run at large about the streets. The point of greatest interest in the outer town is the "Chinese pier," a rickety affair, on which most of the merchants of that nationality have their shops, both as a measure of safety and for convenience in handling cargoes. These shops are the best places to go to for Moro curios.

[Attractions]

The town as a whole is an excellent place in which to see the daily life and occupations of the Moro people in their most characteristic forms. The fact that it is the chief center of the pearl fisheries of the Islands puts the pearling boats when in port, the market where the pearls and shell are sold, and the places of manufacture and sale of the shell ornaments, among the principal sights. Leading from the town to the barracks at Asturias is a fine coconut avenue, known as "Ariolas' Walk." It is named after its builder, who was the Spanish military governor of the place in the early years of the last century.

THE LANGUAGE FOR THE TOURIST.--Spanish and English are the languages universally used in the archipelago. As a general rule, however, an English speaking tourist can travel in the different places described in this book without knowledge of any except his mother tongue. Almost all of the officials and employees of the government speak English and, if there is no one else, a school child can generally be found to do the interpreting.

[English-Speaking Filipinos]

Statistics show that there are at present more Filipinos who can read, write, and speak the English language than those who can read, write, and speak the Spanish language. The last Census (1918) gives the following figures:

Males Females

Filipinos of 10 years of age or over who can 563,495 322,359
read English.
Those who can read Spanish. 587,588 292,223
Those who can both read and write English. 540,552 313,993
Those who can both read and write Spanish. 454,052 210,270

As a matter of fact the English language serves at the present time as a common medium of communication among the inhabitants of the Philippines who still speak their own dialects. Because of the work of public schools during the last quarter of a century it is the language which is most widely spoken in the whole Archipelago.

Business between the central government and the provinces and municipalities is transacted in English. The proceedings of the Philippine Legislature although still in Spanish, are translated into English. In commercial transactions the English language prevails throughout the islands. It will not be very long before the language will be the official language even in the courts and the language which is more generally used in private life. The present leaders of the people have a working knowledge of the language and many can read and write it fairly. The younger generation has a thorough knowledge of English and speaks and writes it in most cases.

The spread of the language as the common language of the inhabitants is assured, not only because it is the basis of instruction in the public schools and in the universities, but also because it is essential to the best interest and political future of the people.