Chapter I: Preface

In the period from student days until within the shadow of the great world-war of 1914, I made eight journeys to and in Scotland; five of them, more or less when alone, and three in company with wife or sister, thus gaining the manifold benefits of another pair of eyes. On foot, and in a variety of vehicles, in Highlands and Lowlands, over moor and water, salt and fresh, I went often and stayed long. Of all things remembered best and most delightfully in this land, so rich in the “voices of freedom,”--the mountains and the sea,--the first is the Scottish home so warm with generous hospitality.

In this book I have attempted to tell of the Scotsman at home and abroad, his part in the world’s work, and to picture “Old Scotia’s grandeur,” as illustrated in humanity, as well as in history, nature, and art, while showing in faint measure the debt which we Americans owe to Bonnie Scotland.

W. E. G.

ITHACA, NEW YORK.

CONTENTS

I. THE SPELL OF THE INVISIBLE 1

II. THE OUTPOST ISLES 7

III. GLASGOW: THE INDUSTRIAL METROPOLIS 17

IV. EDINBURGH THE PICTURESQUE 27

V. MELROSE ABBEY AND SIR WALTER SCOTT 38

VI. RAMBLES ALONG THE BORDER 50

VII. THE LAY OF THE LAND: DUNFERMLINE 65

VIII. DUNDEE: THE GIFT OF GOD 76

IX. THE GLAMOUR OF MACBETH 88

X. STIRLING: CASTLE, TOWN, AND TOWERS 97

XI. OBAN AND GLENCOE--CHAPTERS IN HISTORY 108

XII. SCOTLAND’S ISLAND WORLD--IONA AND STAFFA 119

XIII. THE CALEDONIAN CANAL--SCOTTISH SPORTS 131

XIV. INVERNESS: THE CAPITAL OF THE HIGHLANDS 143

XV. “BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE” 156

XVI. THE OLD HIGHLANDS AND THEIR INHABITANTS 164

XVII. HEATHER AND HIGHLAND COSTUME 177

XVIII. THE NORTHEAST COAST--ABERDEEN AND ELGIN 191

XIX. THE ORKNEYS AND THE SHETLANDS 202

XX. LOCH LOMOND AND THE TROSSACHS 213

XXI. ROBERT BURNS AND HIS TEACHERS 223

XXII. KIRK, SCHOOL, AND FREEDOM 234

XXIII. JOHN KNOX: SCOTLAND’S MIGHTIEST SON 247

XXIV. INVERGOWRIE: IN SCOTTISH HOMES 259

XXV. AMERICA’S DEBT TO SCOTLAND 270

CHRONOLOGICAL FRAMEWORK OF SCOTLAND’S HISTORY 279

INDEX 287

ILLUSTRATIONS

ST. MARTIN’S CROSS AT IONA _Frontispiece_

EDINBURGH CITY AND CASTLE 28

DRYBURGH ABBEY 44

ABBOTSFORD 62

THE MONASTERY, DUNFERMLINE ABBEY 70

THE VALLEY OF THE TAY 84

A TYPICAL SCOTTISH STREET: HIGH STREET, DUMFRIES 94

STIRLING CASTLE, FROM THE KING’S KNOT 100

THE KINGS’ GRAVES, IONA 128

THE CAIRN AT CULLODEN 148

THE SCOTCH BRIGADE MEMORIAL 174

INTERIOR OF COTTAGE, NORTHEAST COAST 194

THE HARBOR OF KIRKWALL, ORKNEY ISLANDS 202

THE TROSSACHS AND LOCH ACHRAY 216

THE TAM O’ SHANTER INN, AYR 226

THE EDINBURGH CONFERENCE OF MISSIONS 268

BONNIE SCOTLAND