Chapter II: Patching Boots and Shoes

It often happens that the uppers of boots or shoes want some repairing, such as stitching or patching. An explanation of some of the principal methods of repairing defects in the uppers, with the way also of fastening down to the sole such patches as need it, will therefore be useful. The patch can be fastened down to the sole by sewing; but if the boot has to be soled, and it is not hand-sewn, the sole (or welt, as the underneath sole is termed in machine-sewn boots) can be prised from the upper where the patch is coming, and the patch tucked under, as the original leather is. When it is smooth, with no fulness, the under sole can be tacked down with a few small tacks, to secure it till the sole is put on. A few rivets (say, every alternate one at this part) longer than those used to nail the sole on with will make the boot as solid as it was at first.

Perhaps the neatest and most solid way to put on a patch is to close it in. This is done by cutting away the worn or cracked part of the old leather, as shown on p. 33 (Fig. 32). The cut should not have more curve than is necessary, for the straighter the cut from B to C, the easier will it be to sew in the patch. In cutting out the piece, be careful not to cut the lining; doing so would put an unnecessary strain on the patch, as it would then be left without protection against stress in wear. Cut the piece away at the bottom close to the sole. Select a piece of new leather of good quality; if the old leather is calf, use calf again; if it is horse, or porpoise, use calf also, as near the same substance as possible. For any other kind of leather, such as kid, patent, etc., the patch should match. Lay the patch cut out upon the new leather, and cut the piece full large, as shown by Fig. 31; if it is to be tucked under it will need to be the full size shown; but if it is to be sewn down, it will only want to be as large as the dotted line in the figure. It will be noticed that the new piece has not quite so much curve as the old. This is to give a fulness to the patch equal to that which the foot has made in the old leather. The cut from A to B must be even and smooth, and holes must be made on the wrong side, as shown in Fig. 32 at D D. Place the patch face down on a board, and at about ¹⁄₁₆th in. from the edge make a hole with a closing-awl, E (Fig. 32), letting the point come out in the thickness of the patch as near to the face side as possible without actually going through. Similar holes are made the whole way round the curved edge, putting about fourteen stitches to the inch.

The patch can now be closed to the boot, first slightly wetting the edge of the old leather. Do not start to sew quite at the end of the new leather, or, when turned over, it will be deficient at the corner. The awl must be put right through the old leather, near to the edge, so as not to make a hard seam.

For calf or any stout leather, the wax-end or thread will be made with three strands of fine flax, and have bristles on each end. The way to make threads is explained on p. 60. For kid, or any light leather, twist or stoutish black thread will do; a tapered end is easily made to either of these by untwisting it for about an inch and a half, scraping it gently between the thumb and a blunt knife. Then wet or wax the thread, and twist it back, holding each one separately in the left hand about four inches down, and with the right hand twist the end on the right knee--not too hard, or you may twist off the fine taper that is wanted to receive the bristle.

In stitching this patch, as in all stitching or sewing, each stitch should have the same tension put upon it, at the same time being careful not to pull too hard on the stitch that is to lie on the old leather.

When the patch is sewn right across, again wet it, and scrape off the rough edge, rub it down, and turn the patch on its right side. Put a last inside the boot, and rub the seam down lightly, but well, on the right side. This can be done with the handle of a table-knife, or anything hard and smooth.

Should the vamp be cracked in several places, as F, G, and H (Fig. 32), then it will be best to put in a new wing. It can be closed in from I to J as described above, and blind-stabbed from J to K. In a case like this, it is well to have the top edge a little larger all round, to hide the old holes, and, if it is not a leather that has the grain side out, at this part it must be skived on the wrong side a little thinner, about ¹⁄₄ in. wide. After this kind of seam is rubbed down, it will be made much neater if lightly buffed, or scraped, across from A to B (Fig. 33), and then rubbed down again. If this sort of patch is put on well, it can scarcely be seen after the boot has been blackened and shined.

Previous to sewing the patch down to the sole, the crevice where the old piece was cut off must be slightly opened with a chisel, or piece of tapered wood or bone and the patch tucked in, as shown at A (fig. 34). This is to enable the stitches to be got as far back and as much out of sight as possible in sewing the patch down. For sewing the patch to the sole, a sewing-awl must be used: it is similar to the closing-awl, only it has a stouter and wider blade.

The thread for ordinary work will be about ten-cord, or No. 9 Patent (price, 2d. per ball), and the awl, although it has to carry the two ends, should only be the substance of one.

The boot is laid upon the knees, patch side up, and when the piece is on the side shown in the figures, the boot must lay on the lap, toe from you. It must be held very firmly on the knees by means of a strap or stout piece of cord placed round it, as B (Fig. 34), and passing under the ball of the foot. By this means the boot can be held as tightly as you please by simply pressing down the toe.

The stitching must be started from A (Fig. 33), the point of the awl being put in on the welt side, A, and pushed through the sole to the bottom, wriggling the awl a little, that it may find or make its own way through at C. In all sewing, stitching, or stabbing, the bristle on the left side is put in first, and the one on the right side is put in underneath it, so that when the stitch is set it shall be between the thread (on the right side) and the patch. This will help to lay the stitch back, and will make the stitches look even and lay flat. The stitching must be continued right across to B (Fig. 33), setting about five stitches to the inch, and tucking the patch well under before each stitch is taken.

This stitching done, and the ends of threads cut off, the stitches must be rubbed down with the bone on the patch side, and lightly hammered down on the sole side. The surplus of the patch can now be cut off level to the edge of the sole, as shown at C (Fig. 34). The edge can be blacked with ink or blacking, and then rubbed down. A little weak paste on the patch will, if let dry, make it smooth to receive the blacking, and the whole, when blackened and polished, will be a neat and a very solid seam.

The neatest patching is called “Invisible,” and this is stuck on with a solution of gutta-percha. Its solvent has an unpleasant smell, but it evaporates very quickly. This solution can be bought at 2d. per bottle, and when not in use it must be kept well corked. Warman’s has a scent mixed with it, so it does not smell quite so bad; but Sand’s is preferable, for quality if not for smell. Both can be got at most leather-sellers’ or grindery shops.

To fit the new patch on the old leather, it is of all importance to have a last, boot-stretcher, tree, or some such thing in the boot, so that the part to be operated on may be quite solid. Skiving is the principal feature in invisible patches, for it is fitting the piece to a nicety that makes the patch invisible.

Skiving is a process so essential, that all who do not know how to do it well are advised to try their hand at it as much as possible with a sharp knife, using any old odd piece of upper leather, on a piece of smooth marble or board. Skiving means making a tapered edge to the leather on one side or the other. Further instructions on skiving are given on p. 45.

The safest way to get the patch the right size is to cut a piece of paper about ¹⁄₄ in. larger all round than is necessary to cover the worn or cracked parts. This is to admit of the skiving. Then, seeing that this is of good shape, cut the patch of new leather to it. This should be calf for calf, kid for kid, etc. Kid is a leather that has the grain side for the face, and must not be scraped. Calf may be, as the grain side is the wrong side, and the flesh the face. After the patch has been cut out to shape (Figs. 35 and 36), proceed to skive the edge. Skive all round if oval (Fig. 35), and round the curve only if semi-circular (Fig. 36). It should be skived from the letters A A A to the edge B B B, and at this part it should be skived to nothing.

The difference between invisible patches and those to be closed in is that in the former the new patch is cut first, and the old leather fitted to it afterwards, and the old leather is not taken away, as for closing in. In this instance, it will only be necessary to explain how to put on the oval patch, for the rule is the same in all other shapes, except where the patch has to be sewn down to the sole; and instructions for doing this are given on p. 35. When the patch is skived, lay it on the boot, overlapping the worn part equally all round, as A A (Fig. 37). Now chalk all round the edge of the patch, and on the old leather as well, as shown, and draw a line right across, from C to C, so that you may get the piece back into its proper position.

Then skive the surface of the old leather to receive the patch, starting at the edge of the chalk mark, and skive towards the centre all round, being careful to get the work regular. Then roughen both the new and old leather with either a file, a piece of coarse sand-paper, or a buffing-knife. Lightly brush out all the leather dust, and apply the solution with the finger; shake the bottle, and give one thin coat both to the patch and old leather; let them dry, and then give another thin coat, and let this dry. It should dry white; and if it does not do so, a little more solution is needed. Care should be taken to see that the edge of the patch has taken the solution properly, and that the old leather has it only on the roughened part. It may be considered that it would be best to solution a patch like Fig. 35 all over, but it is not so, as this would make it very stiff, so that it would not yield in wear, but perhaps only wrinkle and soon work off. The whole of the solutioned surface having dried white, warm both parts before a very slow fire, and when the whole of the white colour has changed to brown, stick the patch on the boot, just as it was first fitted; press it on tight, and with a warm iron spread a little soft heel-ball all over; let the whole get quite cold, then gently rub off the heel-ball, smooth with a cloth, and polish with blacking, and it is finished.

If “Warman’s Solution” is used, it will be found better to keep it in a warm place. Some shoemakers, when using this preparation, place the bottle about their person; this keeps it in good working condition: the heat from the body appears most suitable to the ingredients.

The solution will not cling to a smooth surface; therefore, when possible, roughen it with a rasp after skiving. This accomplished, well shake the solution and cover the patch, and likewise the place prepared for it; let the solution dry, and repeat until it dries white all over. The patch is now ready for sticking, and to do this requires a slow fire. If the fire is at all fierce, hold the boot and the patch at a considerable distance, or they will not hold. When the solution is melted, carefully place the patch, taking great care not to let the edge go beyond where skived; rather keep it a little within; it must be kept free from puckers. Let it stand while you get ready your wax-end thread to sew the patch down to the sole, or if you do not intend to sew it down, allow time to get the solution well set. Warm a glazing-iron, and with that smooth your patch by working it towards the edge. This has the effect of working out from under the patch any air or superfluous solution. When this is done, rub your finger over the surface, and any solution that may have remained can be pressed out. Then ink it over to stain the mark that may be seen round the edge. In the case of brown or other coloured leather this must be omitted.

When this operation is accomplished, you have a patch that _is_ invisible, and, in addition, will never come off. This method has frequently proved successful; but simply following the instructions given on the labels of the bottles generally ends in failure, and craftsmen abandon the practice on that account.

“Blind-stabbing” is another method of repairing boot tops, so called from having to find the hole inside a boot, where it is impossible to see. Blind-stabbing is one of the most important processes in the repairing of boots, as all repairs to the tops can be done in some form by this means--as patches, rips, toe-caps, new springs.

It is very handy when a vamp has a small crack in it, which is often the case. It can be darned up in two ways: first, by using two wax-ends and a zigzag stitch from one side to the other, as at A (Fig. 38); or by making the stitches with one wax-end only, as at B. This is the neater way, but it needs more care and attention.

In either case it is well to put a piece of leather under the crack. It will want skiving at the edge; a piece like Fig. 35 would do nicely. It is easy to get under if the patch is rolled up and passed through the crack, and then levelled by putting an awl through and unrolling it, seeing that it is placed exactly under the crack.

In darning the patch, set each stitch from B to C (Fig. 38), taking hold of no more leather than necessary on either side; when this is done the whole length of the crack, start stitching backward, making the stitches from A to B (Fig. 39), which is a full-size sketch of the crack and stitches. This second stitching is to draw down the first row of stitches, and so make them look small. A fine wax-end or piece of twist should be used, and when this is lightly hammered down, and a piece of soft heel-ball rubbed in, it can be scarcely seen.

Fig. 40 illustrates the way to do blind-stabbing. The left hand is put inside the boot, one of the bristles being held between the thumb and finger, with the point of the bristle about level with the tip of the finger. The stab-awl, which has a thin straight blade, is held in the right hand, which at the same time holds the other bristle, E. It is well to first put the two bristles together, and halve the thread and give it a twist, as at A, so that both ends may be the same length in working.

The awl is then put through the leather about half-way the length of the blade, its exact position is felt with the finger of the left hand, and the bristle is then laid parallel with it, as at B; to steady the hand, place the finger against the lining of the boot at C; withdraw the awl to within about ¹⁄₄ in. of its point, pushing up the bristle with it, and letting the bristle lie on the flat side of the awl; move the awl and bristle up and down, but do not entirely withdraw it until the point of the bristle finds its way into the hole with the awl. It is quite easy to move the awl up and down if the first finger of the right hand is kept on the leather at C. When the bristle is in the hole at D, pull it through with the right hand, and hold it in the hand with the awl, as shown at E. Again put the left hand inside the boot with the other bristle; make a second hole, and repeat the operations till the bristle is passed through. Take the right bristle, E, in the left hand, and pull out the left with the right hand, and draw both out together the whole length of the thread, pulling somewhat sharply, and give a final pull to tighten the stitch. This is continued as far as necessary, putting from twelve to eighteen stitches to the inch.

The position of the boot in Fig. 44 shows how it should be held upon the knees; but while drawing out the thread, it will have to be held fast between the legs, according to where the repair is being made.

When it is wanted to sew anywhere towards the toe or beyond the reach of the whole hand, shown in Fig. 40, the means of doing so is by holding the bristle between the first two fingers, as Fig. 41. The bristle is laid on the cushion of the second finger, and held there with the nail of the first, as shown at A. To blind-stab like this is more difficult, but being so useful, it pays for the extra trouble. Boys can soon learn to blind-stab, as their hands are small: and it is knowledge that will always be of use to them.

A makeshift method of blind-stabbing is to get an 8 in. upholsterer’s needle (Fig. 42), which is very little stouter than an ordinary stout awl, put it in a handle (Fig. 43), fit the patch (Fig. 44), if stout leather, such as kip. Make holes with awl for light leather; use the needle carefully. Pass through with wax-end, draw out needle; see that ends of thread are level, thread the outside end, pass through second hole, draw out end inside boot, thread the inside end, pull out needle; draw both ends tight, and continue till patch is sewn round. Work back a couple of stitches, cut off ends, and lightly tap with hammer to make the patch lie smooth. This method will suit a good many people who cannot use the wax-end with bristles. With this needle a patch can be sewn on in a quarter the time it could be done with wax-ends by a novice.

The minor repairs that have connection with the sole or bottom may now be dealt with.

Underlaying is putting a piece under a sole where it is worn. Many people wear away the sole very quickly on the outside, while a few do just the same on the inside; and in either case an underlay in time will often save a sole.

This repairing is accomplished sometimes by putting the piece on outside. This is done because it is less trouble, but one should spare no pains to do a small job well, because it is that alone that will make a large one come easy.

To underlay, a last or iron foot must be put inside the boot to keep the part that wants repairing quite solid. If the boot is machine or hand-sewn, rip it with a knife from A to B (Fig. 45), and lift it up as C C. If it is riveted, it will have to be prised up with a blunt chisel, and the rivets drawn out from A to C and B to C. Cut out a wetted piece of good sole leather to the shape of Fig. 46, roughly skive it round the curved side, A A A, and then push it under the old leather at D (Fig. 45), but not quite as far as it will finally have to go; then trim the old leather round from C to C with a knife, not taking off much, but all that is weak and thin, and being careful not to cut the new leather. This done, knock the piece in to where it is wanted--that is, the dotted line E--and draw a pencil round the curve cut from C to C, to mark the new piece. Take out the piece (Fig. 46), and from the line B B and B scoop it out with the knife to A A and A, in the same way that is done in grafting a half sole, but in that case the old leather has to receive the new, and in this the new has to receive the old (C C, Fig. 45). Now put the piece in again, and put three short rivets in at F, F, F. Trim up the edge, leaving it quite full, to allow for graving, rasping, etc.

If the boot is hand-sewn, then the underlay must be sewn down from A to B, and it will look neater if a channel is cut in the new piece to receive the stitch but it may be sewn through in the same way that a patch on the upper is sewn down. If the boot is riveted or machine-sewn, the underlay can be riveted down from A to B, about the same distance from the edge, and in a like manner to that shown in Fig. 48; and in either case the edge can be knifed, pared, rasped, and finished as described on p. 26.

When a boot is worn very badly, the underlay is not always enough to make up the edge to the proper substance; then a little piece sufficiently thick to fill that vacant place can be skived off a piece of hard sole leather, well wetted, somewhat the shape of Fig. 47, put under the layer, and riveted or sewn down with it.

Toe-piecing is similar to underlaying, except that it is at the toe end of the sole; but everything is fitted and done in the same way as shown by A and B (Fig. 48), which also shows how the underlays should be nailed both on the old and new leather. It is often wise to put both an underlay and a toe-piece as well to repair a sole, more especially when the boot is old, as it saves a whole sole, and uses up odd pieces of leather.

It sometimes happens that the upper leaves the sole for some distance along the side of the boot, as from A to B (Fig. 49). One way to sew them together again is by loop-stitching; the loop, which is inside and draws the upper to the sole, can be set at every stitch or each alternate one, but take care not to make large holes in the upper. To proceed, make a hole with the sewing-awl through the sole from A to C, draw the thread through, and halve it; then with a fine stab-awl make a hole in the upper; at A put through the right hand end, and draw it through inside the boot; make another hole at D and draw the end through outside, as shown by E. The hole is found inside, as explained in the directions for blind-stabbing (p. 41). For such work as this, however, it can be done by the stitch-draw, explained later on. When thus far, make another hole through the sole from D to F; put the left end (C) in first, then the right (E), pull them tight on both sides, and the loop-stitch is set.

The seat-stitch is another way. For this a row of rather long stitches are set in the upper, from A to B (Fig. 50). This can be done with a stout stab-awl and a sewing-thread (size about 9 cord of “Patent No. 9”), with the stitches quite close to the sole. Then, at A, bore through the sole a hole, A C (Fig. 49), being careful to make it exactly opposite the centre of the first stitch on the upper, A (Fig. 50). Lift up this stitch by putting the point of the sewing-awl under. Put an end through this stitch and through the hole made in the sole, and halve thread as before. This leaves one end in the sole on the left and one through the stitch on the right, as at C and D. There are three stitches set to show how each stitch is caught up and drawn down; the two loops at E are left loose to illustrate. Each stitch must be pulled in quite tight, as that is what draws the upper to the sole.

The stitch-draw is a ready means of finding the hole inside a boot, where it cannot be seen. For instance, take the fore part of a boot (Fig. 51), and to get a bristle through at A from the inside; B B B is a spare end of thread, which can be put from the outside through the hole A, and drawn nearly through; then, some little distance away from the bristle (say at C), a hole can be made through B with a fine awl; then take out one end of the sewing-thread, and put the bristle D through the hole C, till you get to the junction of the bristle where the thread goes between, as shown at C; then at E pull the thread, B B B, until the bristle D F is through to the outside; take it out of B B B, hold it at D with the left hand, while B B B is pulled through with the right from the inside. This, it will be seen, is blind-stabbing with less learning; and although this is very handy, it will prove to be blind stabbing with less speed.

To sew on a loose toe-cap, first put a last into the boot, double the cap, to find the half or centre. The half of the longest curve of the cap--that is, the part that will be sewn down to the sole, is placed exactly central on the toe, and a tack is driven through it into the sole. The two ends of the toe-cap are then held firm, one drawn down tight at either side, and a tack put in to keep each corner in its place, seeing first that the toe-cap is perfectly straight; otherwise, it will look very unsightly when finished. Previous to sewing down, drive the toe-cap, with rather a blunt chisel, between the upper and the welt. This will enable the sewing stitches to be put further back, and make a neater job.