Chapter III: Re-Welting and Re-Soling

To re-welt and re-sole hand-sewn boots are certainly the two most difficult repairs, they are also the most important, being the nearest approach to the making of a boot. When, by practising with repairs, skill has been attained in using the awl and thread, although the present work is the harder, it ought to come easier than some of the minor repairs did at an earlier stage. In shoe repairing, a week seldom passes without a job of some kind to give a little varied practice and keep the hand in trim.

To proceed with the work in hand, a last must always be put in and fitted well to the boot or shoe, or you will not be able to make them look well, and there is a chance of making them smaller. Pieces of stout leather can be put on top of the lasts, or even pieces of bundle-of-firewood will do, tapered at one end, and the thin end knocked in first; but then, this must be done carefully, or the vamp may break just in front of the lacing. Fitting them up well in this form should make the bottom solid all over, and keep them in their proper shape.

A thin long tack must be put in the back of the boot to keep the last in its place, as at A (Fig. 52). Then put the sole and welt part in water, and when wet, take out the boot, wipe it, and cut the old sole off. This is done by putting a knife between the sole and welt at B, and continuing right along, round the toe, and down the other side to C. The old sole can then be cut away, cutting across from D to E to make a riveted or pegged graft, as shown on p. 51, or from F to G to make a sewn graft.

In either case a small hole can be made in the old leather at H, and a piece of wax-end put through, that it may be drawn down flat on to the top of the heel, securing it there by tying the thread round the nail at A. This keeps the old sole in position while grafting, and while sewing in the welt. If you intend to welt the boot all round, carefully cut the old welt away from I to J, and temporarily remove the bottom filling, K. The next thing is to fit the welt, which is a long strip of oil-dressed leather, costing from 1d. per pair. The welt must be buffed on the grain side, cut in two straight down the centre, tied in a loose knot, and put into water to get thoroughly soaked; for they have to be used wet. Before they are ready for use, an angular piece is taken off the grain side, as shown at A (Fig. 53). Grain side down, the welt will show an end like Fig. 53, and this is the position it is held while being sewn in.

The sewing is done as shown in Fig. 54, starting by putting the thread in at A, then halving the thread, and making a hole at B, and while the awl is in place the welt against the upper at its point, and make a hole in it at I. The hole is made as shown by the arrow in Fig. 53. First put the bristle in the left hand through, then the one in the right, and pull them both out, changing the bristles by this means into the other hands, and set the stitch with a final pull. Continue this (as in Fig. 54) until the old welt on the other side is reached.

Use a sewing-awl and a thread of about the same substance to sew in the welt. When this is sewn in, hammer the seam down all round, giving firm blows, so as not to break or bruise it. Then carefully skive off any stuff above the seam that may make it uneven or clumsy, but do not cut near the seam stitches to weaken them.

For repairs, it is only necessary to skive the ends at the waist part of the welt a little thinner after they are sewn in. This can, and should, be done first; but a novice is apt to make the welt too thin, and weaken it where it should be solid, having to stand against the splice or graft in the sole. A piece of bone should now be rubbed round to make the welt flat to receive the stitches with which the sole will have to be stitched on. The edge of the welt must now be rounded to the shape required. Generally, the proper width for a pair of welts is that of the leather when split in two; but at places the stitching somewhat contracts it, and thus leaves prominent parts, which are best cut off; and, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 54, the welt is always a little too wide at the waist.

If the old bottom filling is good, paste it in again at K (Fig. 52); if not, replace it with new. Felt is used for this purpose; cut a piece a little larger than the old, and paste down the shank--this is generally a piece of skived leather, which reaches from under the heel to the dotted line, L (Fig. 52), and just the width of the waist. Then paste the new piece of felt in the bottom, well hammer it in all over; and when dry skive off the edge all round at M M (Fig. 52), making it level with the welt stitch and the centre, K. It is then ready to receive the sole.

But if you intend to make a sewn graft, this graft must be made prior to placing the sole down. To do this, it is important to have the old leather cut straight across, and straight through from A to A (Fig. 55), and the same with the new sole from B to B. Then draw a line from C to C about ³⁄₈ in. from the edge, and about ¹⁄₈ in. from this a second one from D to D.

From D to D on the first line cut in the leather a groove about ¹⁄₁₆ in. deep, but not going through, holding the knife quite upright; this cut can then be opened with any blunt instrument, to show the depth of it. Then from this channel cut away one side towards the toe to the second line, C C, holding the knife quite slanting. This is to make a channel, as shown at E, to receive the stitches, and so make a flat sunk seam to the graft.

Make a series of holes (about five to the inch) from D to D with a sewing-awl, placing the point on the bottom of the channel, and pushing it until the point comes through the edge of the leather, B B, about ¹⁄₁₆ in. from the grain side. All this should be done on the flesh side, with the leather fitted in the same way as shown on page 24, with the exception that, this being sewn work, the leather has to be used a little wetter.

The boot is now put across the knees, in the position shown in Fig. 52, with the toe towards the left and the back part towards the right knee, and--as also shown in the illustration--with the old waist tied back. The new sole can be put against the old leather, and an old rasp, N, put along the top, as shown, and the strap or rope, O, placed round the waist of the boot, as shown, and passing over the rasp. The strap will, as it is pressed by the worker’s foot upon the shank, L, the old waist, H, and the new sole, P, keep them all solid while the graft is being sewn. A strong thread--about fifteen strands of No. 9 Patent, or its equivalent of stouter hemp--should be used, and plenty of wax should be worked into the thread before it is twisted.

The sewing should commence at the upper end in Fig. 55, and continue across to the lower, tying a small but firm knot, as shown at F, as each end of the seam must be particularly solid. For this reason it is well to make two short threads, using one for each graft: this is better than starting and ending with a knot. Novices wear out a thread quicker than experienced workmen do, as they handle it more, and pull it through with occasional jerks. Even at the expense of neatness, this seam must be made solid; this cannot so well be attained in riveted work.

This grafting is done with the piece on the top of the heel, according to the position of the old leather, as will be seen in Fig. 52. This is the most convenient plan, and the old top-piece of the heel provides a flat surface to work upon.

If it is found difficult to keep the sole firmly in position by means of the rasp only, a long rivet can be put in through into the old lifts at H, and another at P (Fig. 52). The heeling should be left till the soling is done, and the two holes can be rubbed out in the finishing.

After the graft is sewn the whole of the bottom, K and L; the new sole, P, and the old shank, H, should have a thin coat of paste. The sole can now be put into its place, and pulled towards the toe to keep it in position. A rivet is put through at A (Fig. 56), and another through the hole, P, in Fig. 52.

This done, hammer the sole evenly all over, and then pare it all round the edge, close to the welt, as shown at B B (Fig. 56). As the sole is wet, with a little care this can be done easily without cutting the upper part, and should form one even edge all round, kept square or at right angles with the flat of the sole, taking care not to go too close to the welt. A line can now be drawn all round with the compasses, about ¹⁄₁₆ in. from the edge; and upon this line the channel is to be cut to receive the stitch.

The boot is held sole upwards between the knees, with the toe towards you; and to cut the channel, use a sharp-pointed knife, held near the point between the thumb and finger, letting the second finger rest upon the edge of the sole. The knife will be somewhat in the position of a pen while writing; but it must be held firmly, and it should form an angle of about 50° with the flat of the welt. The channel should be cut through the grain and into the fibrous and wear-resisting part of the sole deep enough to let the thread lie well below the surface. This will be nearly half-way through the leather, whatever its thickness may be, as it is the substance of the sole that will govern the thickness of the thread, which will have to lie in the channel. The thread being thus embedded in the firm part of the sole gives solidity to the stitching, and leaves the grain free to form a covering for the stitch.

When the cut has been made (Fig. 56) from B round the toe to C, it can be opened with any blunt instrument. This is so that you may see the point of the awl when it comes out in the pit or centre of the channel, and also to give space for the stitch to fall into. To prevent the stitching-awl from notching the inner edge of the channel, which would make it irregular and unsightly when finished, it can be turned over for about two inches; and when about a dozen stitches have been made, pass the left-hand thumb-nail along the channel from the last stitch, and turn over for another two inches.

Stitching on the sole is generally done when a boot has been welted; and before this, the waist will have to be sewn down. It does not matter about a channel being cut in the old waist leather, as this can be blacked: which helps to hide the stitch; though if the leather is sufficiently thick to admit of a channel, this will make a neater finish.

The sewing is started at D (Fig. 56), and the sewing-awl (Fig. 57) is used till the first stitch on the new leather is reached at B; then the stitching-awl (Fig. 58) is used. At the two points, B and C, the sewing and stitching should be so arranged that a stitch extends across the graft from the old to the new leather at B, and from the new to old at C, so as to make these weakest points quite solid.

The technical meaning of sewing is that two or more pieces are held together, and shoemakers call all work sewn that is treated with a round awl; while stitching is only technically applied where the square awl is used.

The stitching-awl is put into the same sort of handle, and is a similar tool to the sewing-awl, with the exception of being flat (as shown in Fig. 58); and it is now almost generally known as the square awl. From this figure it will be seen that when put into the handle the stitching-awl has a double curve. This makes it more handy to get into awkward places, and pressure on the handle gives a power that could not otherwise be obtained. The action of this awl is peculiar; it must not be wriggled about in the same manner as the sewing-awl; and in use it must be passed through by one rapid and almost straight push.

The boot is held by the strap on the knees, toe towards you, on its side, with the sole to the left, and the upper to the right. The thumb of the left hand is pressed firmly against the bottom of the sole, as shown by E in Fig. 56, just beyond where the point of the awl is to come out. The awl is then laid against the upper, with the point on the flat of the welt, and it is pushed through. One sharp push, at the same time dropping the elbow a little, sends the point through the leather into the channel cut in the new sole, as shown at B B (Fig. 59).

A good idea of how a hand-made boot is put together can be gained by careful examination of Fig. 59. It shows a boot cut through at the centre of the sole. The various parts are lettered as follows: A, stitching-awl; B B, channel cut for stitches; C, sole; D, upper leather; E E, space for foot; F, in-sole; G G, welt stitch; H H, welt.

The stitching is continued round as far as the new leather goes; the old leather is then sewn, as was done on the opposite side. The channel is again opened, and the stitches within it are well rubbed down with the bone. A little paste is rubbed in all round with a piece of rag put over the right thumb-nail, which is put in the channel, and passed all round the channel in the sole.

The raised edge of the channel is rasped away with an old file, taking strokes outward from the centre of the sole, the boot being held in the left hand, with the heel towards you. The file strokes proceed, as shown by the arrow at A B (Fig. 60), towards the toe, and are continued all round.

The boot is then replaced in the same position as at first, and the ridge over the channel is rubbed hard up and down with a bone or long stick, held with one end in each hand, as shown from C to D in Fig. 60, until the whole is smoothed. By these means the thin narrow strip of grain, H (Fig. 56), is thrown towards the edge, where it forms a burr all round. The boot is then held with the toe towards you. With the back of the knife the edge of the sole is scraped upwards, to throw this burr over the face of the sole. The knife is then held flat on to the sole, and the burr cut off level with the face. The stitches on the welt side are then rubbed down a little with the tapered bone, wetting a little with the mouth while using it. The sole is then well and evenly hammered all over.

As the stitch is wanted to show up boldly on the welt, the fudge-wheel (Fig. 61) should be run round it before the stitching is commenced. This wheel makes an impression on the leather resembling stitching, and the real stitching will appear regular if the awl is put through exactly in the wheel-marks. To get a bold and even stitch, the principal factor is a mode of setting the stitch. Each time that the awl is taken out, put in the left-hand bristle first, as usual, and in putting in the other bristle, on the right side, let it pass on top of the first. This will throw the stitch up towards the edge; and if carefully done with each one, the stitches will show one straight line. The stitches can be set from 12 to 16, or even 18, to the inch, according to the style of work; 14 will do well for ordinary repairs.

After the stitches are rubbed down, the warmed fudge-wheel can be carefully run round the sole, each cog to go between each stitch. This will prick up the stitch; or a prick-stitch can be used between each stitch. The boots are then finished in the way described in Chap. VIII.

To make a thread for either stitching or sewing, flax or hemp is used. This is sold in balls ready for casting and twisting, and should always be drawn from the inner end. It is convenient to place the ball in a box and draw the thread through a hole. The thread is first broken at about 6 in. from the end to the form shown at A (Fig. 62). This is done by rolling it on the right thigh with a long sweep of the right hand. This action untwists the fibres, as at B, and a smart jerk with the left hand parts the threads, leaving the flossy ends as shown at A; the short end is thrown away.

The length of thread commonly used is about three yards, and several pieces of about this length are broken from the ball. For stitching purposes the thread ranges from about 5 to 9 strands, and for sewing-up to about 15 strands. At C is shown the end of a thread having 8 strands, and it will be noticed that these ends are placed at different places, lengthways, so as to form a tapering end to the threads when all are twisted together.

Having broken off the requisite number of strands they are hooked midway of their length over a nail and twisted by rolling on the knee in the way described for breaking the strand. About a dozen sweeps of the hand should suffice for each end. The whole thread is then held at full length to allow the twisting to distribute itself evenly, and wiped smooth with a cloth.

Waxing the thread is the next process, and to do this follow the plan shown in Fig. 62, where L is the left hand and R the right. The thread is wound round the left hand leaving a length of about 2 ft. for waxing with the wax, marked W, and held in the right hand as shown. The thread is laid in the wax and held firmly upon it by the thumb, T, and waxed by drawing the hands apart; this is repeated a few times, as may be necessary. The thread is then unwound from the left hand, and another length of about 2 ft. is waxed.

Select a good pair of bristles to go on each end of the thread; cut off the bulby part from one end by a slanting cut as at D. At E, bend both bristles across the thumb-nail, and split them to this point by tearing asunder the bushy part of the hair at F. Place the tapered end of the waxed thread between the two split portions, and carefully plait the whole together. Finally, a hole is made with a fine awl at E, and the point of the bristle is threaded through it; this secures the join against unplaiting. A bristle may be twisted on by rolling the fine-tapered point of the thread round it.

In order to draw the stitches tight in sewing, a hand-leather (Fig. 63) is indispensable. It is easily made from a piece of old leather, and its dimensions are from about 8 in. to 10 in. long, and 2¹⁄₂ in. to 3 in. wide. The shape is shown in the illustration; the leather is folded at the dotted lines, B C, and F E, and the ends are laced together at I J. In the position indicated at A a hole is made, about 1 in. diameter, for the thumb to pass through, the short strokes at B, D, and E show where the leather is snipped. The ends G and H are laced together as shown at I J, and the leather is placed on the left hand with the lapped ends in the palm and the thumb passing through the hole A.