Chapter XV: Homeward Bound (1)

Departure from Buenos Ayres.—Arrival at Monte Video.—Guano
deposits of Patagonia.—Bahia Blanca.—Eligibility of the
district for an overland route to Chili.—Chilian grant for
direct steam communication with England.—Accessions to
steam navigation on the Brazilian coast.—Opening of the
Amazon.—Departure from Monte Video.—Rough wind and heavy
sea.—Aspect of Raza under various lights and shades.—Hotel
accommodation of Rio Janeiro.—A wet day at Bahia.—Consular
memoranda on Venezuela, Bolivia, and Equador.—Arrival at
Pernambuco, and meeting with the Olinda.—Arrival at Porto
Grande.—Seven days’ steaming against the wind.—Madeira in the
distance.—Arrival at Belem.—Miseries and absurdities of the
quarantine system.—Towing the Pilot astern.—Passage up St.
George’s Channel.—Arrival in the Mersey.—Loss of the Olinda and
the Argentina.—New ocean and river steamers.

Buenos Ayres being the extent of my mission, and expecting the Brazileira so soon at Monte Video, I hastened my departure for Monday, the 27th September, when we embarked early, with a very heavy surf, caused by the northerly wind blowing right on shore. Few passengers would venture off, and it took me nearly an hour to reach the Argentina, in a good boat, pulled by stalwart rowers, than whom there are few better than the Buenos Ayreans, thanks to the perpetual practice required in their perilous roadstead of a harbour. For a place with shallow water, I never saw so heavy a surf, which renders it most uncomfortable to those who may be compelled to embark under such circumstances. We had a fresh breeze the greater part of the way, increasing to a strong one as we approached the mount of Monte Video, reaching it at dark, so as to get into that excellent haven. This, however, we did quite safely, and landed our passengers in buoyant spirits, and full of admiration of our craft’s performance, in the face of such difficulties. Next morning was wet and hazy, but on its clearing off at about eleven o’clock we were agreeably surprised to see our ocean steamer, Brazileira, close to the harbour. She soon came to an anchor, two days before her time, to the inexpressible confusion of many unbelieving individuals, who had been very prolific in their forebodings that she would be considerably in arrear of her promised undertaking. She was the first steamer that ever came direct to the River Plate with cargo and passengers, both which were landed, at Monte Video in thirty-five days, and Buenos Ayres in thirty-six days, thus completely establishing the practicability of such a communication, and adding another triumph to the wonders of steam. In such a country it is a boon that can only be understood and appreciated by degrees, but every practical writer on the affairs of the River Plate has pointed to steam as the alpha and omega—the one thing needful towards a successful development of its resources, and the only element by which these vast countries can be rendered available to mankind, or perform their part in the great work of their Creator. With steam and railways would come hands and emigration, so much required, and where there is a vast and lucrative field, perhaps the most lucrative in the world, for its operation.

Before quitting the La Plata, and its future destinies, I would say a few words on subjects connected therewith, although they may have no immediate bearing on the present narrative. I have before remarked how comparatively little is known in Europe of the past history of this part of South America, and of its internal resources. South of Buenos Ayres the curtain has been somewhat raised by guano researches on the coast of Patagonia, which have not resulted in any great gain to the adventurers. The climate is too humid, and the expense of drying the guano too great, to admit of much extension in that trade, which would scarcely have been opened but for the enterprize arising out of Ichaboe. Buenos Ayres has, therefore, lost nothing by this supposed encroachment on her territory, if it be rightfully hers—a point not altogether undisputed—which is, in other respects, wide enough, in all conscience, to admit of any multitude of industrious settlers, if they were disposed to come. Had similar deposits of guano to those on the coasts of Chili and Peru existed at Patagonia, then, indeed, there might have been a reasonable chance for the interest on Buenos Ayres Bonds being paid, considerably sooner than now seems likely. There is a spot to the southward, called Bahia Blanca, with a good bay, and a river running from a long distance westward, that promises well to become of much future importance. Parish makes allusion to military operations in that locality, and I found that at Buenos Ayres several parties had their attention directed there, as a place offering considerable advantages, in the centre of large cattle districts, and through which the shortest cut could be made to the south-west coast of this continent. There is little doubt that if a safe and easy route could be established across the country, it would be much frequented, and by many be preferred to Panama, with its sickly tendencies; a voyage of thirty or thirty-five days from England, and then a journey of ten or twelve days’ might enable the traveller to reach the territory of Chili through a fine country and healthy climate.

And speaking of Chili and Peru, the present may not be an inopportune place—at least I can now avail of no other—to state that a further link in the steam chain, wherein Brazil may be expected to play a prominent part, is that to the west coast of South America, through the Straits of Magellan, as already indicated in the introductory chapter in reference to Chili, whose government have granted a subsidy of £12,000 a year for a direct steam communication with England; and it is believed this can be best effected by having branch steamers from Rio to Valparaiso, making Rio, what it really ought to be, the port of transit for the southern ocean.[119] The mineral wealth of Chili and Peru is still, as all know, something almost fabulous, and the consumption of British manufactures in those countries very considerable; so that steamers would be sure of a paying freight both ways, with abundance of passengers, who would prefer such a route to the inconvenience and expense of crossing the isthmus. All that is required to secure to Brazil these important advantages, is a relaxation in its fiscal system, by which steamers can discharge and load in transit, without being subjected to local dues and restrictions, which are an extinguisher to progress in any country. If they decline to give these facilities, Monte Video and the Falkland Islands[120] will be only too glad of the opportunity, and wherever it takes root there it will remain. The question is important for Brazil, as a large number of vessels now put into Rio in transitu that would follow in the wake of steamers. Unfortunately, the facilities for dealing with cases of distressed vessels are no further advanced than they were fifty years back: not a graving dock, patent slip, or other convenient apparatus yet existing in the otherwise noble harbour of Rio Janeiro, although a floating sectional dock was in course of construction at Ponta d’Area.

It would appear that the formidable difficulties in navigating the Straits of Magellan exist only in name. Winter and summer the passage is quite easy and practicable, and settlements are taking place by which both sailing ships and steamers can be furnished with stores and provisions, whilst there is coal of the country ready to assist the movements of steam. But in reality, the dreaded peril of Cape Horn itself will soon be quite a matter of history,[121] if a halfway house hereabouts be established, as the proofs already adduced, and now quoted in a note, render a certainty. The coal is said to be a kind of bituminous anthracite, which gets up steam very well when mixed with English coal. Coal has been found on the coast of Chili of this description, and in places readily accessible for steam purposes. With the present high freights for coal shipped hence, the certainty of a supply of even inferior fuel of the kind is most important.

Other lines of steam communication are in process of formation along the South American, especially the Brazilian, coast, to connect the bye ports and rivers with the principal cities and towns; and two steamers, called the ‘Santa Cruz’ and ‘Continguiba,’ are shortly to leave for Bahia on this most useful errand; so that, in a few years, we may expect to find coasting steamers in Brazil as numerous almost as on our own coast, conveying to and fro passengers and produce, to the great advantage of the country and of our mercantile relations with it.

The Rio Company which has undertaken the contract with the Brazilian government for opening up the navigation of the Amazon has hardly yet been long enough in operation to show what can be accomplished. There are immense difficulties to overcome in pioneering a navigation of this kind through such wild, uncultivated, and almost unknown districts; and without a considerable subsidy, no association would undertake the task. Great credit is due to the Brazilian government for making a heavy sacrifice in order to insure so desirable an object. They are moreover negotiating with the Company with the view of correcting the clause of the contract which insures to the Company the exclusive privilege of navigating the river with steamers. These arrangements will doubtless be brought to a successful issue, for a more enlightened and patriotic citizen than Senhor Irenêo Evangelista de Souza, with whom the government contract was made, does not exist in any country. He has done more for the internal advancement of Brazil than any other man; witness the splendid establishment at Ponta d’Area, for foundry work, engineering, and ship building; the short railway to the foot of the Organ Mountains; lighting the city of Rio with gas, the establishment of a new bank which has lately merged into a national one; and, latterly, opening up the navigation of the Amazon; besides many other improvements that little is heard of. Only those personally acquainted with the indefatigable labours of Senhor Irenêo in such a country can judge of their real beneficial tendency, or of the gigantic mind required to cope with the difficulties entailed. Great stir is making by our Yankee friends in this part of the world; they have contracted with the Peruvian government for two small wooden steamers, which were sent out piecemeal, and put together at Pará. Report says very little in favour of the strength or speed of these steamers, qualities very essential to such a navigation, exposed to strong currents, and impediments from want of a proper knowledge of the channel of the river. I believe the Rio Company are building some fine powerful boats in this country, that will shortly be brought to bear on this increasing and, I venture to predict, wonderful traffic.

My mission being for the promotion of steam in South America, and the main aim and object of this volume being to make known here the desirability of, and the field for, such enterprise in that country, I trust the foregoing apparent digression in the midst of the return voyage will not appear irrelevant.

Leaving Monte Video on the morning of the 1st October, we steamed down the river, with a light breeze and sunny weather; soon passed Flores, which very much resembles some of our channel lighthouses, on a low island, a short distance from the land. Before sunset we had left the island of Lobos behind, and soon came into a nasty head wind and sea, which lasted for two or three days, causing the vessel to pitch a good deal, and making every one uncomfortable. At daylight on the fifth morning the mountains of Rio were in sight, the Corcovado towering over them. Passing Raza, the scenery is very fine, and will bear oft-repeated inspection with largely increased advantage, as it varies much with the particular period of the day when seen, the lights and shadows being so different, and changing with each succeeding hour. Early morning throws its sharp silvery touch over everything, tinting the sides and peaks of the mountains, which seem floating in mist, whilst the forts and buildings of the city have a sombre hue. At mid-day all this effect has cleared away; the hills stand out in bold relief—bright green is the distinguishing character of the landscape—and the glare of white houses and red tiles meets your eye in every direction. Towards evening the aspect again changes to a deep brown or purple, steeping all things in more glowing richness; and presently there is thrown over the whole that peculiar olive which is quite a reality in the tropics, but the painting of which looks more or less ideal to the vision accustomed only to the comparatively frigid atmosphere of our temperate zone. I merely allude to the general character of the scenery, which, of course, varies materially with the changes of weather, and needless is it to add that there are occasional sunsets which no description of language could adequately pourtray.

We regret to say that the hotel accommodation of Rio Janeiro is very deficient for the size of the place and the extent of traffic passing through it. The best hotels are those of Pharoux and De l’Europe, in the city, and the Hotel des Etrangers and Johnson’s Hotel, on the road to Botafogo, the latter being peculiarly adapted for English ideas of comfort, and also long known to English travellers passing through, as well as a comfortable home to many residents there. The Hotel des Etrangers is a large, spacious building, now kept by a Frenchman, and is quite a fashionable resort for deputies visiting Rio for the session, as also for foreign diplomatists. The accommodation at Johnson’s Hotel is limited, and quite of a select nature. Comfortable boarding-houses, in our meaning of the term, are very few and far between. The majority of new-comers to, or passers-through, Rio, have private friends, to whose houses they resort during their brief sojourn; but, undoubtedly, there is ample scope for much greater accommodation being afforded to ‘man and beast’ in this large city. The Emperor of Brazil is said to be coming to Europe on a tour of some duration. It is to be hoped that not only will he be accompanied by a large retinue, but that numbers of the affluent inhabitants of this capital will also visit the old world at the same time; for if so, they can carry back with them no experience that may be turned to more desirable account in Rio than that which they will derive from an acquaintance with first class British, French, or German hotels.

After four days’ detention at Rio, coaling, taking in cargo, &c., we left, on the morning of the 20th October, with some eighty passengers on board, for the northern ports of Brazil, Lisbon, and England. Again we encountered the head wind and sea which had so perplexed us previously, between Monte Video and Rio; but arriving, nevertheless, in three and a half days at Bahia, where we spent a miserably wet day coaling. In spite of the weather we got away in the afternoon, under a salute from the forts in honour of the President[122] of Pará, who was a passenger on board. Forty hours took us to Pernambuco Roads, which we left again on Sunday afternoon, the 16th, once more in direct route for home. The Olinda was due at Pernambuco, and strange enough, the next morning we met her as if a line had been drawn for us to do so. Saluting each other with two guns, and a reciprocal round of three hearty cheers, time being too valuable for either to stop to satisfy curiosity, we pursued our respective routes, not a little elated by reciprocal punctuality and success thus far in our mutual maiden voyage. She looked remarkably well, appeared to be steaming fast, and would be in Pernambuco early next day. Our passenger list comprised fifty, of all denominations, English, French, Brazilians, Portuguese, Argentine, &c.; but it is surprising how everything gets into shape and order under such circumstances. We sighted the Island of St. Paul’s, looking like the white sails of a vessel, and on Sunday afternoon, the 22nd of October, came to anchor in Porto Grande, St. Vincent, under seven days from Pernambuco, a distance of 2,000 miles, very good work it must be confessed, though, perhaps, nothing to boast of, considering what we had already achieved. Leaving St. Vincent the same night, we had to steam against the north-east wind and waves for seven consecutive days, with no aid from our canvass. Then we passed Porto Santo, and saw both the Desertas and Madeira at a good distance, basking in fine clear weather. The morning of the 3rd October broke splendidly on the coast of Portugal, Cape Espectrial and the distant hills in sight, the lower land being shrouded in mist; we stood towards Cascaes Bay, got a pilot on board, and once more entered the Tagus, in the short space of fifteen days from Pernambuco, and twenty-one from Rio. We were obliged to bring up at Belem, and undergo quarantine, although we brought clean bills of health, there being no cases of fever reported at any of the Brazilian ports. A certificate from four medical men on board attested this fact; as well as our having no invalids on board of any kind. Between twenty and thirty of our passengers left us here, having to endure the misery of eight days in the Lazaretto—a castellated looking building, situated on the south side of the Tagus—they were all transferred, with their luggage, to a large lighter. A more lovely day could scarcely be conceived than the one when we were at anchor at the quarantine station, coaling; most tantalising to be debarred from availing ourselves of the opportunity to land and have a run over the city, which many of our passengers had seen for the first time. As to preventing an importation of yellow fever by their quarantine regulations, it is a complete farce, as all kind of communication are kept up with the shore; the officers of the ship are allowed to go on shore to the health office, which is right on the main road passing Belem, and the shore is a common thoroughfare; caravans and people bathing where the boats land. It is difficult to conceive on what grounds these absurd regulations are introduced, unless it be to annoy and drive away people wishing to visit the place, and as part and parcel of a system of intolerant restrictions that are enough to paralyse the energies of any country. The inconvenience which such restrictions cause is indescribable, nor can anything justify the infliction in such cases as ours. If at any time there is really sufficient grounds for adopting quarantine regulations, they ought to be delighted to remove them so soon as the grounds were removed. In the present advanced state of civilization, and with the rapid intercourse between nations, quarantine is almost a barbarity, calculated to shut out the country that exercises it from the rest of the world, whilst it is impossible it can be efficacious in the manner it is carried on at Lisbon; besides, the yellow fever has never been known to travel out of the tropics, and surely a voyage of twenty or thirty days across the ocean, without a case on board, is sufficient security, even supposing the fever to exist in the country the vessel comes from. On the other hand, reports of cholera in England cause an enforcement of quarantine outwards, thus putting the crowning piece to this mass of absurdity and annoyance. The subject cannot be alluded to with common patience, especially when it is publicly stated that the medical men who have to determine these sanitary points have a strong pecuniary interest in the lazarettos, and numbers of people prey upon the unfortunate vessel and passengers subjected to these terrible inflictions. Since my return, however, the Lisbon officials seem to have become a little amenable to reason and decency, and their preposterous regulations are in a trifling degree relaxed.

At 10 A.M. on the morning of the 1st November we weighed anchor, and steamed past Belem, towing a pilot in his boat astern. Our late fellow passengers in the Lazaretto were assembled at the top of the building, waving flags and handkerchiefs, to bid us farewell, and one could scarcely help feeling melancholy to see so many worthy people stuck up in a kind of cage, for no earthly object but to gratify a morbid sensibility on points sanitary. The pilot would not come on board, as it would subject him to perform a given number of days’ quarantine afterwards. There was a fresh breeze from the southward, and the rope soon broke, leaving Mr. Pilot to find his way back to Lisbon, and the steamer to find her own way out as best she could. A heavy sea was breaking on the bar, in which the pilot could not possibly have been towed, so we were well rid of him; but it only shows the operation of things under such an iniquitous system, where a man is well paid for doing absolutely worse than nothing—being in the way; for how is it possible for a pilot to direct a vessel when he is towed astern of her, and any directions he might give are impossible to be heard? However, we crossed the bar safely, and soon passed the Rock of Lisbon, after which our fair wind vanished; came strong ahead, with a good deal of sea, against which we steamed until next day 2nd Nov., when it became calm, and the wind gradually veered to south-east. Saw Cape Finisterre, and from thence to St. Agnes Light (Scilly Islands); we were only thirty-five hours in doing 450 miles of distance. From Scilly we posted our way up Channel; went inside the Smalls; passed close to the Island of Grasholm, a very wild spot; missed Bardsey, but saw Holyhead Light; had a tug round the Skerries, blowing hard; at daylight got a pilot on board, and at 11 A.M. entered the Mersey, exactly twenty-six days from Rio Janeiro, including stoppages. My trip of 15,000 miles (including the run up the Parana) occupied me very little over three months, during which time I visited all the important sea ports of Brazil, Monte Video, Buenos Ayres, &c., spending a fortnight in Rio, and about the same time in the La Plata. The ‘Brazileira’s’ entire voyage occupied seventy-three days, including eighteen days’ stoppages, clearly proving that it is only a question of time for these valuable countries to be brought within the scope of a pleasure trip.

The performances of the Brazileira and of her sister ships of our fleet had, on the whole, been highly satisfactory, and promised to realize to the utmost every anticipation that had been entertained at the period of the formation of the company. But, alas, for bright visions! two of the flotilla unexpectedly, I may say unaccountably, are numbered with the departed, and under pretty nearly identical circumstances—both from shaving too close. The Olinda, wrecked hard by Holyhead, but fortunately without sacrifice of life, in one of those terrible storms that swept the British coast the beginning of this year, is a loss to the company as regards her keeping up the main ocean line. The Argentina had, for a time, been a shining light to the numerous passengers between the two great cities on the La Plata, and she is, emphatically, a national loss to them, as well as to the surrounding district, retarding, in fact, the work of civilization and improvement. On a fine, clear, and almost breathless evening, still daylight, she carried her temerity so far as to approach too closely some sunken rocks near the entrance to Monte Video harbour, going twelve miles an hour at the time, and in a moment her career of usefulness was ended! There was almost a general mourning over her, so great a favourite had she become, by the rapid and satisfactory manner in which she illustrated the blessings of steam navigation in a region where, of all others, such agency is most to be desired.[123]

In order to repair as speedily as possible the damages caused by the loss of the Olinda and Argentina, the company have purchased the paddle-wheel steamer Menai, well known for her quick passages between Liverpool, Beaumaris, and Bangor, to replace the Argentina on the station between Monte Video and Buenos Ayres, until such time as a larger and more efficient vessel, now in course of construction, and that will be in every way worthy of the passenger traffic between those two great cities, can be built. They have also sent out the La Plata, a fine new screw, built by Mr. John Laird, originally intended for the London and Oporto trade, and to be called the Bacchante; but now destined to run between Rio Janeiro, Monte Video, and Buenos Ayres, in connection with the ocean steamers, which will not proceed beyond Rio Janeiro. In conjunction with the above-mentioned vessels, the company intend placing on the line the Imperador and Imperatrice, two steamers also in process of construction, same size and power as the Bahiana. Our fleet will thus consist of the Imperador, Imperatrice, and Bahiana, all new ships; the Brazileira and Lusitania, now running; the La Plata, a branch boat; and the two River Plate passenger-boats. I doubt not the public, as well as the respective governments embraced in this line of steam communication, will consider the enterprise as deserving of their especial support.

A page of my allotted space remains to be filled, and I cannot better occupy it than with a brief summary of the news brought to the latest moment before going to press, viz., that by the Mail, which arrived on the 16th of April, with dates from Buenos Ayres, March 4; Monte Video, 6; Rio Janeiro, 17; Bahia, 22; Pernambuco, 25; St. Vincent’s, Cape Verde, April 4; Teneriffe, 8; Madeira, 9; and Lisbon, 12, as quoted in the leading journal of the 17th.

Tranquillity continued undisturbed on the Plate. Business in imported goods and manufactures was dull, owing to the total absence of dealers from the interior. Since the blockade of July last upwards of 2,000 houses had been erected in the city of Buenos Ayres, and buildings were still being raised with the greatest rapidity. Trade was expected to improve. Articles of consumption were very dear. The supplies of produce were very stinted, and at advancing prices. A large portion of the last clip of wool remained on hand. The following extracts from a letter, dated Buenos Ayres, March 4, give the latest particulars of political events:—

‘Here everything goes on quite smoothly: at least, there is
nothing within the province to cause any uneasiness. Our
attention at present is wholly directed to Monte Video,
where the Brazilian policy is being carried out with rapid
strides. The only important question for us is how their
proceedings may be viewed by General Urquiza, as President
of the Confederation, whether he may make friends with us to
resist the Imperialists, or join with the Imperialists that he
may attack this province? Mr Buchental, a wealthy Brazilian
capitalist and speculator, has crossed over to Chili to consult
as to the means of forming a railroad from Valparaiso to the
Rosario. The latest news from the west coast represents nearly
all the Republics to the north in a state of excitement, but
we suspect there is a great deal of exaggeration. Mr. Gore,
British Minister at Buenos Ayres, has gone up the Parana for
the purpose, it is supposed, of exchanging the ratifications
of the treaty, and, perhaps, to grace the installation of the
Constitutional Presidency, which is to take place about this
time, some say on this very day. If Urquiza is wise, he will do
the best he can with his own domains, and leave us alone.’

From Rio there is nothing worth noticing, as regards political affairs. A considerable reaction had taken place in the coffee-market, and prices were lower. Supplies regular. From Pernambuco we learn that the South American and General Steam Navigation Company’s steamer Lusitania reached Pernambuco on the 18th ult. Great tightness exists in the money-market—more so than had been experienced for a long period.

On the 13th, the South American and General Steam Navigation Company’s steam vessel for the Plate, Menai, was off Cape Finisterre. Our Lisbon accounts are to the 12th instant. The passengers by the Mail had been placed in quarantine for eight days, in consequence of the reported appearance of yellow fever at Pernambuco. The little rain which had fallen in Portugal was not sufficient materially to improve the prospects of the grain harvest, while the cattle in some parts were suffering much from want of food.

ERRATUM.—In the hurry of passing the foregoing pages through
the press, many errors have occurred, which unavoidable absence
from London, and the nature of my duties in Liverpool, did not
permit of being corrected in time. For these I must crave the
reader’s indulgence, promising that they shall not be repeated,
and that many short comings shall be supplied, in the event of
another edition being called for, which I am in hopes, from
the nature of the subject itself, though not from its present
treatment, will soon be the case. One oversight, however, is of
too conspicuous a nature not to require notice, namely, that in
which the printers have confounded the sugar and cotton growing
province of Paraiba do Norte with the coffee plantations on the
River Parayba, in the province of Rio Janeiro, there being no
coffee grown in the former province, and consequently it is to
the latter the remarks in the text are intended to apply.

THE FALKLAND ISLANDS.

The Falklands recommended by the Colonial Land Emigration
Commissioners, as a place of Re-fit, Naval Station, and
Convict Settlement.—The Corporation of the Falkland Islands
Company.—How it could assist Her Majesty’s Government in
forming a Convict Settlement.—Proposal to demonstrate
the superior eligibility of this Colony for a Convict
Settlement.—Climate healthy.—Fresh Water abundant.—Cost of
Transport less than that to other Colonies.—Safe Custody and
Classification.—Geographical position and extent.—Distance from
the Main.—Little Naval Force required.—Causes of insecurity
at other Settlements not found at the Falklands.—Detached
Islands provide against escape.—Guard required less than
elsewhere.—Provisions cheap.—How supplied.—Cereals may be
raised.—Employment.—Supply of Convicts need not be gradual.—How
first comers are to be disposed of.—Preliminary outlay very
small, and may be recovered.—Opinions of various Servants of
the Crown.—Two Propositions.—1. What the Falkland Islands
Corporation should undertake.—2. What national advantages
would result from a Convict Settlement at this Colony.—Get rid
of Convicts.—Relieve the Mother Country.—Redeem the pledge
made to all Convicts.—Facilities for reformation.—Restoration
of the penitent to society, without injury to the
innocent.—Agricultural School for Juvenile Convicts.—Complete
Depot for Naval Re-fit near Cape Horn.—Saving of Port Charges
and of Freight.—All Ship’s Repairs could be done if Patent Slip
laid down.—Secure Coaling Station for Steamers.—First-rate
Naval Station.—In time of War ‘Key of the Pacific.’—Testimony
of Governor Rennie, and of Capt. Matthews, Commander of the
Great Britain Steamer.

Engraved by George Philip & Son]

Some years ago, the British Government was disposed to entertain the idea of placing a Convict Establishment on the Falkland Islands (a purpose to which they had been applied by their former occupants), and it appears that this idea was suggested by the representations of various persons employed in the service of the Crown, in and about the islands, and on the neighbouring continent, to the effect that the locality was highly eligible for the purpose; in fact, the Colonial Land and Emigration Commissioners have strongly recommended these islands as a place of re-fit for merchantmen, as a naval station, and as a convict settlement—and advised that the first operations to promote the settlement should be undertaken by a public company. It is because the attention of Government has been thus directed to the eligibility of these islands, that it is thought well to present, in this brief form, a statement of the advantages they naturally present, as well as of those that may be secured, should Her Majesty’s Government be disposed to resume the consideration of forming a convict settlement there, which was probably postponed at the date referred to because convenient means of carrying the project into execution did not then present themselves. There is no reason to suppose that any objection was raised to the locality itself, nor does it appear that any objection does actually exist; on the contrary, it may be satisfactorily demonstrated that no spot in Her Majesty’s dominions is better suited for a convict station.

A public company now exists, under the style of the ‘Falkland Islands Company,’ the primary object of which is to trade in the produce of the colony, and which has obtained from the Crown a royal charter, incorporating it for that purpose. This fact is premised, to render it apparent that, if her Majesty’s Government thinks well to avail itself of the company’s services in making arrangements for a convict settlement at the Falklands, the means needful to carry out the project are not wanting. The existing establishments in the colony, recently assigned to the corporation, are already in that state of forwardness, and the capital they have at call in this country is sufficient to enable them to assure Her Majesty’s Government of their capability to undertake the immediate supply of all necessaries for a large number of convicts as soon as they can arrive in the colony; moreover, they are prepared to provide every description of stores on terms as reasonable as those paid in any other colony, and in respect to the important items of beef, mutton, and fuel, at a cheaper rate than they can be supplied elsewhere. If, therefore, it be considered desirable to find a new locality for convicts (which it appears from public report Her Majesty’s Government have it in contemplation to select), this company can assist in carrying out the object, and it only remains to point out why the Falklands should be deemed most eligible in every point of view for the purpose in question. The proposition would seem to be sustained by the following facts:—

1. The climate is remarkably healthy. In proof of this assertion may be adduced the concurrent testimony of numerous respectable and honourable men:—amongst others, Captains Fitzroy, Sulivan, and Robertson, who conducted the nautical survey—of Dr. Darwin, who accompanied Captain Fitzroy’s expedition—of Weddell, and Captain Sir James C. Ross—of Captain Mackinnon, and Captain Eden, who, together with the late Governor, Captain Moody, and Mr. Hamblin, the colonial surgeon (now in England), all unite in attributing extraordinary salubrity to the climate of these islands. That it is considered agreeable may be inferred from the existence of the present settlers, some of them men of capital and station, who have formed establishments, and resided there for many years. The temperature is declared to be remarkably equable, the extremes of heat and cold, usual in England, being unknown there; then there is a prevalence of south-westerly gales, which render the air of a peculiarly bracing character, whilst it is considered far more enjoyable than that of European countries situate north of the 52nd or 53rd degree of latitude. Fresh water is everywhere found of excellent quality. From these authorized statements, it may be taken for granted, that such a temperature for active and healthy labour is far better suited to the constitutions of men born in the climate of Great Britain, than the hot and relaxing atmosphere of the equatorial latitudes, whereby the power and inclination to labour is diminished, whilst residence in such climates has the effect of fomenting the evil passions of men under little or no moral or religious constraint.

2. The cost of transport would be one half of that to any of the existing penal settlements. This fact being self-evident, requires no testimony for its support. The islands lie less than half way between Great Britain and Australia, California, and China, on the direct route to the Pacific.

3. This colony is peculiarly well adapted for the safe custody and classification of convicts. The Falkland group, situated in the same latitude, south, as the English midland counties are, north, consists of two large islands, comprising an area of 6,400 square miles, and several hundred smaller islands, from 20,000 acres each to islets of one acre, and the total extent of territory is equal to rather more than half that of the kingdom of Belgium. The numerous detached islands offer remarkably well-adapted positions for permanent stations, say for a penal settlement, whilst the western island combines those advantages that are requisite to insure the practical working of the forced labour, and subsequent reformed settlement, system, which might eventually render the East Falkland a flourishing free colony, entirely unconnected with the convict establishment. The situation of the islands is wholly isolated; the nearest land is Staten Island, distant 250 miles by chart—they are 350 miles from Terra del Fuego, and 400 from the coast of Patagonia in direct lines, countries either uninhabited, or peopled by savages, without port or shipping—and there is no small shipping trade in or about the Falklands. By means of the semaphore, a communication can be kept up every ten minutes between the extreme western point of the West Island and Port Stanley on the extreme east of the group—consequently the naval force stationed there need be very trifling. Then the vessels calling are all bound round the Horn, or returning from the Pacific, or whalers—none of these, wanting men, would take convicts, and there is none of that class of shipping on this track that are likely to take them off. There are no woods to conceal fugitives, and no means of constructing boats or rafts, should any contemplate so wild an adventure as to try to gain the main, where certain death by starvation, or at the hands of ruthless savages, would await them. These advantages cannot fail to be appreciated when the position of this settlement is compared with that of Van Dieman’s Land, Norfolk Island, or any of the islands of the northern groups in that hemisphere. Here are no native population or settlers to be corrupted by contact with convicts—no coasting traffic, affording constant opportunity for escape, and both of which render safe custody costly in other colonies. Norfolk Island, and more particularly New Caledonia and the Fidgee group, lie in the track of a host of independent traders, men who own and command their ships, and whose occupation is trading between these islands, Sydney, the Society Islands, the Marquesas and the Paumotu Islands, as well as with Valparaiso—whose expeditions frequently last two or three years, and who notoriously take part in the quarrels between the various petty Polynesian kingdoms; in which cases they not unfrequently undertake to provide the party, who is able to pay them for the service, with English soldiers, and in performance of such engagements, kidnap convicts as a matter of traffic. The existence of this trade, carried on to a considerable extent by men who have some of them been convicts themselves, must always render the custody of criminals at the islands named both hazardous and expensive. The numerous detached islands which form the Falkland group afford every facility for classification, and are most of them only approachable on the north-eastern side, the rest of the coast being fringed with sunken rocks, naturally buoyed by kelp, which render landing or getting off impossible. The peculiarities of form and position herein noticed would render the presence of a large military or civil guard quite unnecessary—and it will probably appear, that such part of the duty of an establishment there as appertains to their safe custody and to the maintenance of proper order amongst the prisoners, could be carried out more economically than at any other station.

4. Provisions of all kinds would be plentiful at cheaper rates than in any other colony. Beef, mutton, and pork are in abundance, and could be supplied of the best quality at 2_d._ to 3_d._ per lb. Flour, biscuit, and clothing would have to be imported, probably from England and the Canadas (until they could be raised in sufficient quantity on the islands), and as vessels bound round the Horn can obtain fresh supplies of provisions and water at Stanley, these articles could be landed in the Falklands at a cheaper rate than elsewhere. Vegetables may be raised in any quantity required, and white celery and other antiscorbutic plants are indigenous. Labour is only needed to insure the raising of cereal crops, and therefore the supply of such produce would follow the location of convicts.

5. Employment would not be wanting. Good building stone and slate exists. Coal and limestone are reported to have been discovered, but this requires confirmation. Timber would have to be imported from our North American colonies for some purposes, though the quantity of drift from Staten Island and the neighbouring coasts is very great; and some of it large enough for ship’s repairs. Roads, buildings, public works, the collection and preparation of fuel, preparation of stores, &c., would afford ample occupation for a large number of unskilled labourers, whilst tradesmen and artizans could be occupied in providing for the other wants of the community. Convicts of the lowest class could be advantageously employed in the construction of slips, quays, a careening dock, barracks, enclosures for cattle, dwellings for government officers, stone portage, military works, levelling town allotments, road-laying, brick-making, drainage, well sinking, and cutting channels for the supply of water to the town and shipping. Whilst those of a superior class might have ample occupation found for them in the construction of dwellings for themselves, churches, working of salt-works, raising embankments and planting, horse-breaking and keeping, tending flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, curing beef and fish, opening streams for drainage, baking, butchering, cutting, washing, and consolidating turf, collecting guano, growing vegetable supplies, making shoes, clothing, cheese, butter, &c., for the consumption of the establishment and exportation; and procuring fodder for the Government troop of horses; with many other occupations which experience would suggest.

6. It is less necessary that the supply of convicts should be gradual in these islands than in any other of our colonies. The labour of the first comers would be mainly directed to providing for their own immediate wants. These, in the first instance, might be lodged on board of hulks, the same that conveyed them out, and their employment would be in the erection of a large stone barrack, church, gaol, and storehouses, with suitable dwellings for the overseers; all as regards the external walls sound and strong, and on a scale to receive at least double their number, with the needful attendants on the establishment. An old line-of-battle ship, jury rigged, could be prepared to receive on board 1,500 to 2,000 convicts; and such a vessel, after her arrival, would not be required for more than a year or two, but would last four or five years without needing repairs as a convict hulk. They might afterwards be broken up, and used as stores in finishing some of the buildings, and for other suitable purposes. Wooden barracks constructed in this country might of course be taken out with the convicts; but a hulk is suggested as a temporary dwelling that could more probably be readily found, and would not swell the preliminary estimate which it appears always desirable to avoid in the formation of a new establishment. It should not be lost sight of, that the stiff clay of the islands works up with the stone of the ‘streams’ into very sound and durable walls, as witness those of the old Spanish fort at Port Louis, built, it is said, in 1771, and now in a good state of preservation.

It results, then, that a convict establishment may be planted at the Falklands with a very small amount of preliminary outlay on the part of the Home Government, and that such outlay may speedily be returned. Such has been the expressed opinion of nearly all the men, who, being qualified to form an opinion on such a subject, have had an opportunity of examining the locality. Amongst these gentlemen, there appear the names of Captains Fitzroy, Ross, Mackinnon, and Sulivan, as well as of Mr., now Sir, Wm. Gore Ouseley, who, in his official correspondence some years ago, expressed a very decided opinion on this subject. In fine, these islands have been recommended by the Colonial Land and Emigration Commissioners, ‘as a place of transportation, perhaps more eligible than any other British possession,’ and these gentlemen have already forcibly suggested a notice to Parliament on the subject.

Having thus demonstrated that no more eligible spot could be found for convicts, it only remains to point out specifically what the Falkland Islands Company should undertake, provided Her Majesty’s Government decide to send such persons to the Falklands, and to avail themselves of the company’s services in so doing:—and then to set forth the highly important results _in a national point of view_ that would follow the adoption of this measure.

The company should contract to furnish all such supplies as the Government might require of them. They should also undertake to employ convict labour in the drainage and general improvement of their own territory, paying to government a fair rate of wages for such labour; and this would provide a considerable source of revenue, as doubtless the company would be only too glad to avail themselves of such a means of rendering their very extensive possessions really productive, in a far greater space of time than they could hope to accomplish it by importing free labour, and probably even at less cost.

Thus this colony, hitherto almost overlooked, notwithstanding its very remarkable geographical position, may become one of the most valuable possessions of the Crown: and, in times to come, or rather in the time that has come, rank in importance not second to Gibraltar, Malta, Aden, Hong Kong, and such other places as are valuable in proportion to the power they confer on their possessors of maintaining friendly relations with the other nations of the earth, or protecting their own interests in the present rupture with Russia. The following national advantages would thus be secured.

First:—We should get rid of the vexed question of ‘What are we to do with our convicts?’ and that in a manner not obnoxious to any one of the objections raised against other localities.

Secondly:—Her Majesty’s Government would be relieved from the embarrassment that must always attend the attempt to retain convicts in this country. For the time must come when their terms expire, and then the real difficulty of disposing of them must be grappled with. It can hardly be supposed that the mother country will consent to receive among her highly moral people those whom the colonies have _una voce_ agreed to reject. And it would be an injustice and impolicy, that could not be contemplated, to condemn such men to constant isolation. In the East Falkland they may settle, and thence they may insensibly migrate whither they list, without the blazonry of their former guilt preceding them, and thus have really a fair chance of resuming an honest and respectable position; which it is, to say the least, extremely difficult for men to accomplish at the spot whereon they have undergone their punishment, and consequently amongst a people where they are branded with disgrace.

Thirdly:—The philanthropist will hail with infinite satisfaction the establishment of a settlement which, whilst it provides for the proper punishment of offenders against the laws, affords the best possible opportunity of promoting and encouraging genuine reform—a reform that would eventually restore the penitent to society, and moreover without the outward symbol of past crime that would cause it, by rejecting him, to drive him back on his evil habits. The process would be accomplished without the risk of any moral stain upon the innocent, and the locality proposed is physically adapted, by a very remarkable combination of circumstances, to the promotion of morality. A _juvenile_ Convict Agricultural School, on principles already tried elsewhere, might advantageously form part of the general system adopted in the Falklands; and, being entirely separate from the adult establishment, would prove a valuable aid in the progress of reformation.

Fourthly:—The most convenient place for re-fit for our merchantmen and foreigners, as well as for steamers, trading between Europe and the Pacific, would speedily be rendered perfectly available. The enormous port charges of the east and west coast ports of South America would be avoided. Freight would be saved to shipowners, and the comforts of passing emigrants promoted, by the facility of re-provisioning and watering half way. And all this at a port wholly unconnected with the convict settlement, where a small dockyard could be economically constructed, and would amply and speedily repay the expense incurred.

Fifthly:—Her Majesty’s ships, and those of the merchant navy also, could undergo repair here cheaper than at any port in those seas—and, if a patent slip were laid down, more speedily; for at present there is not, strange to say, one patent slip south of the line, on all the coast round to Callao. This important advantage would effect an immense saving in the cost of Her Majesty’s squadron constantly kept afloat on the east coast, and that also on the west coast of South America, one item of which would be a fortnight to three weeks’ saving of wear and tear on every voyage home from the Pacific. This consideration becomes of double importance now that Russian men-of-war are known to be in the Pacific on the look-out for our merchantmen.

Sixthly:—As lines of steamers are established round the Horn, the Falklands are the point of all others most suitable for a coaling station, (as the documents in this work from the most competent authorities have abundantly proved,) and one that in time of war could be easily rendered impregnable.

And, lastly, now that war is in reality upon us, with the certainty of being a tolerably long one, it is difficult to exaggerate the advantage which the possession of these islands would afford to Great Britain in respect to their position, provided proper works were constructed, for which there are great local advantages. In this point of view, any protracted delay in rendering the Falklands thoroughly available as a first-rate naval station, on the footing of Gibraltar and other places, would appear to be an oversight.

The whole of the above objects may be speedily accomplished with the accession of convict labour; without it, the prospect of these advantages is very remote, and their realization might, at any moment, be frustrated by the colony passing (as heretofore) into the hands of some more enterprising nation, whose rulers may entertain a shrewd notion of the vast importance attaching to a naval station that may truly be called ‘the key to the Pacific.’ One position may be advanced as indisputable; namely, that now war has involved us with at least one of the great maritime powers, the entire Pacific fishery, and the whole trade on and about the Western Coasts of America, may come under the absolute control of the possessors of the Falkland Islands, should a _coup de main_ of our unscrupulous foe bring about the temporary transfer of the station to him.

P.S. Since the above was in type, Mr. Bentley has published a work from the pen of Earl Grey, entitled ‘The Colonial Policy of Lord John Russell’s Administration,’ containing much valuable matter relative to the system of transportation, and a brief notice of the Falkland Islands. Respecting the Falklands, the noble Earl observes, that the object of the Government was—