Chapter I: Preface

The object of this book is to present a popular narrative of the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition of the American Museum of Natural History to China in 1916-17. Details of a purely scientific nature have been condensed, or eliminated, and emphasis has been placed upon our experiences with the strange natives and animals of a remote and little known region in the hope that the book will be interesting to the general reader.

The scientific reputation of the Expedition will rest upon the technical reports of its work which will be published in due course by the American Museum of Natural History. To these reports we would refer those readers who desire more complete information concerning the results of our researches. At the time the manuscript of this volume was sent to press the collections were still undergoing preparation and the study of the different groups had just begun.

Although the book has been largely written by the senior author, his collaborator has contributed six chapters marked with her initials; all the illustrations are from her photographs and continual use has been made of her daily journals; she has, moreover, materially assisted in reference work and in numerous other ways.

The information concerning the relationships and distribution of the native tribes of Yün-nan is largely drawn from the excellent reference work by Major H. R. Davies and we have followed his spelling of Chinese names.

Parts of the book have been published as separate articles in the _American Museum Journal_, _Harper's Magazine_, and _Asia_ and to the editors of the above publications our acknowledgments are due.

That the Expedition obtained a very large and representative collection of small mammals is owing in a great measure to the efforts of Mr. Edmund Heller, our companion in the field. He worked tirelessly in the care and preservation of the specimens, and the fact that they reached New York in excellent condition is, in itself, the best testimony to the skill and thoroughness with which they were prepared.

Our Chinese interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, contributed largely to the success of the Expedition. His faithful and enthusiastic devotion to our interests and his tact and resourcefulness under trying circumstances won our lasting gratitude and affectionate regard.

The nineteen months during which we were in Asia are among the most memorable of our lives and we wish to express our deepest gratitude to the Trustees of the American Museum of Natural History, and especially to President Henry Fairfield Osborn, whose enthusiastic endorsement and loyal support made the Expedition possible. Director F. A. Lucas, Dr. J. A. Allen and Mr. George H. Sherwood were unfailing in furthering our interests, and to them we extend our hearty thanks.

To the following patrons, who by their generous contributions materially assisted in the financing of the Expedition, we wish to acknowledge our great personal indebtedness as well as that of the Museum; Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M. Colgate, Messrs. George Bowdoin, Lincoln Ellsworth, James B. Ford, Henry C. Frick, Childs Frick, and Mrs. Adrian Hoffman Joline.

The Expedition received many courtesies while in the field from the following gentlemen, without whose coöperation it would have been impossible to have carried on the work successfully. Their services have been referred to individually in subsequent parts of the book: The Director of the Bureau of Foreign Affairs of the Province of Yün-nan; M. Georges Chemin Dupontès, Director de l'Exploration de la Compagnie Française des Chemins de Fer de l'Indochine et du Yün-nan, Hanoi, Tonking; M. Henry Wilden, Consul de France, Shanghai; M. Kraemer, Consul de France, Hongkong; Mr. Howard Page, Standard Oil Co., Yün-nan Fu; the Hon. Paul Reinsch, Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary to the Chinese Republic, Mr. J. V. A. McMurray, First Secretary of the American Legation, Peking; Mr. H. G. Evans, British-American Tobacco Co., Hongkong; the Rev. William Hanna, Ta-li Fu; the Rev. A. Kok, Li-chiang Fu; Ralph Grierson, Esq., Teng-yueh; Herbert Goffe, Esq., H. B. M. Consul General, Yün-nan Fu; Messrs. C. R. Kellogg, and H. W. Livingstone, Foochow, China; the General Passenger Agent, Canadian Pacific Railroad Company, Hongkong; and the Rev. H. R. Caldwell, Yen-ping, who has read parts of this book in manuscript and who through his criticisms has afforded us the benefit of his long experience in China.

To Miss Agnes F. Molloy and Miss Anna Katherine Berger we wish to express our appreciation of editorial and other assistance during the preparation of the volume.

Roy Chapman Andrews
Yvette Borup Andrews

Justamere Home,
_Lawrence Park,
Bronxville, N. Y._

_May 10, 1917._

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

The Object of the Expedition

PAGE

The importance of the scientific exploration of Central
Asia--The region which the Asiatic Zoölogical
Expedition investigated--Personnel of the
Expedition--Equipment--Applicants for positions upon the
Expedition

1-6

CHAPTER II

China in Turmoil

Yuan Shi-kai--Plot to become emperor of China--The Rebellion--Our
arrival in Peking--Passports for Fukien Province--Admiral von
Hintze, the German Minister--_En route_ to Shanghai--Death of
Yuan Shi-kai

7-14

CHAPTER III

Up the Min River

Y. B. A.

Arrival at Foochow--Foochow--We leave for Yen-ping--The
Min River--Our first night in a _sampan_--Miss Mabel
Hartford--Brigands at Yuchi--Yen-ping--Trapping at Yen-ping

15-25

CHAPTER IV

A Bat Cave in the Big Ravine

The Temple in the Big Ravine--Hunting serow--A bat apartment house

26-81

CHAPTER V

The Yen-ping Rebellion

A message from Mr. Caldwell--Refugees from Yen-ping--Situation
in the city--Fighting on Monday morning--Wounded men at the
hospital--We do Red Cross work--More fighting--A Chinese
puzzle--The missionaries save the city--The narrow escape of a
young Chinese--The mission cook--Return to Foochow

82-48

CHAPTER VI

Hunting the Great Invisible

Tiger lairs--Mr. Caldwell's method of hunting--His first
tiger--Habits of tigers--Experiences with the Great
Invisible--Killing a man-eater--Chinese superstitions--Hunting
in the lair

44-58

CHAPTER VII

The Blue Tiger

Arriving at Lung-tao--The blue tiger--Mr. Caldwell's first view
of the beast--The lair in the Long Ravine--Bad luck with the
tiger--A meeting in the dark--Ling-suik monastery--Life at the
temple--Fukien Province as a collecting ground

54-66

CHAPTER VIII

The Women of China

Y. B. A.

Schools for girls--Position of women--The Confucian rules--Woman's
life in the home--Foot binding--Early marriage--A Chinese
wedding

67-73

CHAPTER IX

Voyaging to Yün-nan

Outfitting in Hongkong--Food--Guns--Cameras--_En route_
to Tonking--The Island of Hainan--We engage a cook
at Paik-hoi--Arrival in Haiphong--Loss of our
Ammunition--Hanoi--The railroad to Yün-nan Fu--Yün-nan--The
Chinese Foreign Office endorses our plans

74-83

CHAPTER X

On the Road to Ta-li Fu

Oar caravan--The Yün-nan pack saddle--Temple camps--Chinese
_mafus_--Roads--Country--Ignorance of a Chinese
scholar--New mammals--Village life--Opium growing--An opium
scandal--Goitre--The Chinese "Mountain schooner"--Horses--Miss
Morgan--Brigands--Our guard of soldiers

84-98

CHAPTER XI

Ta-li Fu

Hsia-kuan--Summer temperature--Lake--Graves--Pagodas--Mr. H. G.
Evans--Foreigners of Ta-li Fu--Chinese mandarins--Mammals at
Ta-li--Caravan horses and mules--The cook becomes ill

99-106

CHAPTER XII

Li-chiang, and the "Temple of the Flowers"

Traveling to Li-chiang--Our entrance into the city--The surprise
of the foreigners--The temple--Excellent collecting--Small
mammals--The Moso natives--Customs--The Snow Mountain--Baron
Haendel-Mazzetti

107-113

CHAPTER XIII

Camping in the Clouds

Moso hunters--Primitive guns--Crossbows and poisoned
arrows--Dogs--porcupine--New mammals--We find a new camp on
the mountain

114-119

CHAPTER XIV

The First Goral

Killed near camp--A sacrifice to the God of the Hunt--Small
mammals--The second goral

120-125

CHAPTER XV

More Gorals

Gorals almost invisible--Heller shoots a kid--Collecting material
for a Museum group--A splendid hunt--Two gorals--A crested
muntjac

126-188

CHAPTER XVI

The Snow Mountain Temple

The first illness in camp--Serow--Death of the leading
dog--Rain--Two more serows--Lolos--Non-Chinese tribes of
Yün-nan

184-189

CHAPTER XVII

Gorals and Serows

Relationship--Appearance of the serow--Habits--Gorals

140-148

CHAPTER XVIII

The "White Water"

Y. B. A.

Our new camp--serow--We go to Li-chiang--A burial
ceremony--Ancestor worship

140-156

CHAPTER XIX

Across the Yangtze Gorge

Traveling to the river--Inaccuracy of the Chinese--First view of
the gorge--The Taku ferry--Cares

157-163

CHAPTER XX

Through Unmapped Country

Along the rim of the gorge--A beautiful camp at Habala--New
mammals--Photographic work--Phete village--Stupid
inhabitants--Strange natives--The "Windy Camp"--Hotenfa

164-171

CHAPTER XXI

Traveling Toward Tibet

A hard climb--Our highest camp--A Lolo village--Thanksgiving
with the Lolos

172-177

CHAPTER XXII

Stalking Tibetans with a Camera

Y. B. A.

Caravans--Tibetans--Dress--Appearance--Photographing frightened
natives--Reason for suspicion

178-181

CHAPTER XXIII

Westward to the Mekong River

Snow--Photographing natives--The Snow Mountain again--The
Shih-ku ferry--Cranes--"Brahminy ducks"--A well-deserved
beating--Chinese soldiers

182-189

CHAPTER XXIV

Down the Mekong Valley

Arrival at Wei-hsi--The Mekong River--Lutzu natives--Difficulties
in the valley--An unexpected goral--Christmas--The salt
wells--A snow covered pass--Duck shooting--Return to Ta-li Fu

190-201

CHAPTER XXV

Missionaries We Have Known

Our observations on work of missionaries in Fukien and Yün-nan
Provinces--Mode of living--Servants--Voluntary exile--Medical
missionaries--A missionary's experience with the brigands at
Yuchi

202-211

CHAPTER XXVI

Chinese New Year at Yung-chang

Y. B. A.

Traveling to Yung-chang--New Year's customs--Inhabitants of
the city--Foot-binding--Caves--Water buffaloes--Chinese
cow-caravans--Yung-chang mentioned by Marco Polo

212-222

CHAPTER XXVII

Traveling Toward the Tropics

Shih-tien plain--Curious inhabitants of the city--A tropical valley
at Ma-po-lo--"A little more far"--A splendid camp--Many new
mammals--Preparing specimens Sambur--Trapping

223-232

CHAPTER XXVIII

Meng-ting: a Village of Many Tongues

The first Shan Village--Priscilla and John Alden--Meng-ting--The
Shan mandarin--Young priests--The market--Photographing under
difficulties--Suppression of opium growing

233-343

CHAPTER XXIX

Camping on the Nam-ting River

A beautiful camp--The "Dying Rabbit"--Sambur hunting--Jungle
fowl--Civets--Pole cats and other animals

244-251

CHAPTER XXX

Monkey Hunting

Strange calls in the jangle--Our first gibbons--Relationship and
habits--Langurs and baboons--A night in the jungle

252-259

CHAPTER XXXI

The Shans of the Burma Border

An unfriendly chief--Honest natives--Houses at
Nam-ka--Tattooing--Shan tribe--Dress

260-263

CHAPTER XXXII

Prisoners of War in Burma

Y. B. A.

The mythical Ma-li-ling--Across the frontier into Burma--The
_mafus_ rebel--Ma-li-pa--Captain Clive--Guarding the
border--Life at Ma-li-pa

264-272

CHAPTER XXXIII

Hunting Peacocks on the Salween River

The Valley at Changlung--The ferry--Peacocks--The stalker
stalked--Habits of peafowls

273-280

CHAPTER XXXIV

The Gibbons of Ho-mu-shu

Climbing out of the Salween Valley--A Shan
Village--Ho-mu-shu--Camping on a mountain pass--Gibbons--An
exciting hunt and a narrow escape--Habits of the "hoolock"

281-290

CHAPTER XXXV

Teng-yueh: a Link with Civilization

Tai-ping-pu--Flying squirrels--Lisos--A bat
cave--Mail--Teng-yueh--Mr. Ralph Grierson--Tibetan bear cubs

291-297

CHAPTER XXXVI

A Big Game Paradise

Gorals at Hui-yao--Deer--Splendid hunts

298-304

CHAPTER XXXVII

Serow and Sambur

Monkeys at Hai-yao--Muntjacs--A new serow--We move camp to
Wa-tien--A fine sambur

305-314