Chapter XXXVIII: Last Days in China

It was of paramount importance to pack our specimens before the beginning of the summer rains. They might be expected to break in full violence any day after June 1, and when they really began it would be impossible to get our boxes to Bhamo, for virtually all caravan travel ceases during the wet season. Therefore our second stay at Hui-yao was short and we returned to Teng-yueh on May 24, ending the active field work of the Expedition exactly a year from the time it began with our trip up the Min River to Yen-ping in Fukien Province.

Mr. Grierson had kindly invited us again to become his guests and no place ever seemed more delightful, after our hot and dusty ride, than his beautiful garden and cool, shady verandah where a dainty tea was served. Our days in Teng-yueh were busy ones, for after the specimens were packed and the boxes sealed it was necessary to wrap them in waterproof covers; moreover, the equipment had to be sorted and sold or discarded, a caravan engaged, and nearly a thousand feet of motion-picture film developed. This was done in the spacious dark room connected with Mr. Grierson's house which offered a welcome change from the cramped quarters of the tent which we had used for so many months.

Much of the success of our motion film lay in the fact that it was developed within a short time after exposure, for had we attempted to bring or send it to Shanghai, the nearest city with facilities for doing such work, it would inevitably have been ruined by the climatic changes. Although cinematograph photography requires an elaborate and expensive outfit and is a source of endless work, nevertheless, the value of an actual moving record of the life of such remote regions is worth all the trouble it entails.

The Paget natural color plates proved to be eminently satisfactory and were among the most interesting results of the expedition. The stereoscopic effects and the faithful reproduction of the delicate atmospheric shading in the photographs are remarkable. Although the plates had been subjected to a variety of climatic conditions and temperatures by the time the last ones were exposed in Burma, a year and a half after their manufacture, they showed no signs of deterioration even when the ordinary negatives which we brought with us from America had been ruined. The other photographs, some of which are reproduced in this book, speak for themselves.

The entire collections of the Expedition were packed in forty-one cases and included the following specimens:

2,100 mammals
800 birds
200 reptiles and batrachians
200 skeletons and formalin preparations for
anatomical study
150 Paget natural color plates
500 photographic negatives
10,000 feet of motion-picture film.

Since the Expedition was organized primarily for the study of the mammalian fauna and its distribution, our efforts were directed very largely toward this branch of science, and other specimens were gathered only when conditions were especially favorable. I believe that the mammal collection is the most extensive ever taken from China by a single continuous expedition, and a large percentage undoubtedly will prove to represent species new to science. Our tents were pitched in 108 different spots from 15,000 feet to 1,400 feet above sea level, and because of this range in altitudes, the fauna represented by our specimens is remarkably varied. Moreover, during our nine months in Yün-nan we spent 115 days in the saddle, riding 2,000 miles on horse or mule back, largely over small roads or trails in little known parts of the province.

In Teng-yueh we were entertained most hospitably and the leisure hours were made delightful by golf, tennis, riding, and dinners. Mr. Grierson was a charming host who placed himself, as well as his house and servants, at our disposal, utter strangers though we were, and we shall never forget his welcome.

We decided to take four man-chairs to Bhamo because of the rain which was expected every day, and the coolies made us very comfortable upon our sleeping bags which were swung between two bamboo poles and covered with a strip of yellow oil-cloth. They were the regulation Chinese "mountain schooner," at which we had so often laughed, but they proved to be infinitely more desirable than riding in the rain.

With the forty-one cases of specimens we left Teng-yueh on June 1, behind a caravan of thirty mules for the eight-day journey to Bhamo on the outskirts of civilization. Our chair-coolies were miserable specimens of humanity. They were from S'suchuan Province and were all unmarried which alone is almost a crime in China. Every cent of money, earned by the hardest sort of work, they spent in drinking, gambling, and smoking opium. As Wu tersely put it "they make how much--spend how much!"

About every two hours they would deposit us unceremoniously in the midst of a filthy village and disappear into some dark den in spite of our remonstrances. We would grumble and fume and finally, getting out of our chairs, peer into the hole. In the half light we would see them huddled on a "kang" over tiny yellow flames sucking at their pipes. At tiffin each one would stretch out under a tree with a stone for a pillow and his broad straw hat propped up to screen him from the wind. With infinite care he would extract a few black grains from a dirty box, mix them with a little water, and cook them over an alcohol lamp until the opium bubbled and was almost ready to drop. Then placing it lovingly in the bowl of his pipe he would hold it against the flame and draw in long breaths of the sickly-sweet smoke. The men could work all day without food, but opium was a prime necessity.

It was almost impossible to start them in the morning and it became my regular duty to make the rounds of the filthy holes in which they slept, seize them by the collars and drag them into the street. Force made the only appeal to their deadened senses and we were heartily sick of them before we reached Bhamo.

The road to Bhamo is a gradual descent from five thousand feet to almost sea level. Because of the fever the valleys are largely inhabited by "Chinese Shans" who differ in dress and customs from the Southern Shans of the Nam-ting River. Few of the men were tattooed and the women all wore the enormous cylindrical turban which we had seen once before in the Salween Valley.

At noon of the fifth day we crossed the Yün-nan border into Burma. It is a beautiful spot where a foaming mountain torrent rushes out of the jungle in a series of picturesque cascades and loses itself in a living wall of green. The stream is spanned by a splendid iron bridge from which a fine wide road of crushed stone leads all the way to Bhamo.

What a difference between the country we were leaving and the one we were about to enter! It is the "deadly parallel" of the old East and the new West. On the one side is China with her flooded roads and bridges of rotting timber, the outward and visible signs of a nation still living in the Middle Ages, fighting progress, shackled by the iron doctrines of Confucius to the long dead past. Across the river is English Burma, with eyes turned forward, ever watchful of the welfare of her people, her iron bridges and macadam roads representing the very essence of modern thought and progress.

With paternal care of her officials the British government has provided _dâk_ (mail) bungalows at the end of each day's journey which are open to every foreign traveler. They are comfortable little houses set on piles. Each one has a spacious living room, with a large teakwood table and inviting lounge chairs. In a corner stands a cabinet of cutlery, china, and glass, all clean and in perfect order. The two bedrooms are provided with adjoining baths and a covered passageway connects the kitchen with the house. All is ready for the tired traveler, and a boy can be hired for a trifling sum to make the punkah "punk." Such comforts can only be appreciated when one has journeyed for months in a country where they do not exist.

Our last night on the road was spent at a _dâk_ bungalow near a village only a few miles from Bhamo. We were seated at the window, when, with a rattle of wheels, the first cart we had seen in nine months passed by. That cart brought to us more forcibly than any other thing a realization that the Expedition was ended and that we were standing on the threshold of civilization.

As Yvette turned from the window her eyes were wet with unshed tears, and a lump had risen in my throat. Not all the pleasures of the city, the love of friends or relatives, could make us wish to end the wild, free life of the year gone by. Silently we left the house and walked across the sunlit road into a grove of graceful, drooping palms; a white pagoda gleamed between the trees, and the pungent odor of wood smoke filled the air.

The spot was redolent with the atmosphere of the lazy East; the East which, like the fabled "Lorelei," weaves a mystic spell about the wanderer whom she has loved and taken to her heart, while yet he feels it not. And when he would cast her off and return to his own again she knows full well that her subtle charm will bring him back once more.

* * * * *

The next morning we entered Bhamo. It is a city of low, cool houses, wide lawns and tree-decked streets built on the bank of the muddy Irawadi River. Only a few miles away the railroad reaches Katha, and palatial steamers run to Mandalay and Rangoon. We called upon Mr. Farmer, the Deputy Commissioner, who offered the hospitality of the "Circuit House" and in the evening took us with him to the Club.

A military band was playing and men in white, well-dressed women, and officers in uniform strolled about or sipped iced drinks beside the tennis court. We felt strange and shy but doubtless we seemed more strange to them for we were newly come from a far country which they saw only as a mystic, unknown land.

On June 9, at noon, we embarked for the 1,200-mile journey to Rangoon, exactly nine months after we had ridden away from Yün-nan Fu toward the Mountain of Eternal Snow. Our further travels need not be related here. When we reached civilization we expected that our transport difficulties were ended; instead they had only begun. India was well-nigh isolated from the Pacific and to expose our valuable collection to the attacks of German pirates in the Mediterranean and Atlantic was not to be considered even though it necessitated traveling two thirds around the world to reach America safely.

We left Rangoon for Calcutta, crossed India with all our baggage to Bombay, and after a seemingly endless wait eventually succeeded in arriving at Hongkong by way of Singapore. There we separated from our faithful Wu and sent him to his home in Foochow. It was hard to say "good-by" to Wu, for his efficient service, his enthusiastic interest in the work of the Expedition, and, above all, his willingness to do whatever needed to be done, had won our gratitude and affection. We ourselves went northward to Japan, across the Pacific to Vancouver, and overland to New York, arriving on October 1, 1917, nearly nineteen months from the time we left. We were never separated from our collections for, had we left them, I doubt if they would ever have reached America. It was difficult enough to gather them in the field, but infinitely more so to guide the forty-one cases through the tangled shipping net of a war-mad world.

They reached New York without the loss of a single specimen and are now being prepared in the American Museum of Natural History for the study which will place the scientific results of the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition before the public.

* * * * *

The story of our travels is at an end. Once more we are indefinable units in a vast work-a-day world, bound by the iron chains of convention to the customs of civilized men and things. The glorious days in our beloved East are gone, and yet, to us, the Orient seems not far away, for the miles of land and water can be traversed in a thought. Again we stand before our tent with the fragrant breath of the pines about us, watching the glistening peaks of the Snow Mountain turn purple and gold in the setting sun; again, we feel the mystic spell of the jungle, or hear the low, sweet tones of a gibbon's call. We have only to shut our eyes to bring back a picture of the bleak barriers of the Forbidden Land or the sunlit streets of a Burma village. Thank God, we saw it all together and such blessed memories can never die.

INDEX

Abercrombie & Fitch Co., 76
Abertsen, Mr., Chinese Customs, employee of, 290, 294;
discovered hunting ground near Hui-yao, 298;
killed two gorals, 298
Africa, 4
Akeley, Carl E., 4, 76
Alaska, 4
Allen, Dr. J. A., x
American flags, 43
American Legation, Peking, xi
American Museum Journal, ix
American Museum of Natural History, 2, 5, 77, 200;
trustees of, specimens being prepared at, 321
Americans, 11
Ammunition, loss of, 79
Amoy, 16
_Anas boscas_ (Mallard ducks), 186
Anglo-Chinese College, 4
Animal life, lack of, 89
Annamits, 78
Antlers, 306, 312
Ape, gray (_Pygathrix_), 255
_Apodemus_ (white-footed mouse), 122, 176
Asia, x
_Asia_ Magazine, quoted from, 152
Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition, 2;
members of, 8
Assam, 241
Assistants, 4
A-tun-tzu, 198, 294

Babies, killing and selling of, 206
Baboon, brown (_Macacus_), 255
Baboon, Indian (_Macacus rhesus_), 279
Bamboo chickens, 26
Bandits, attack of, 95
Bankhardt, Mr., 82, 40, 42, 207
Bat apartment house, 80
Bat cave, description of, 29;
experience of girl in, 81
Bats, method of killing, 80
Batrachians, 310
Bear cubs (_Ursus tibetanus_), purchased at Teng-yueh, 296
Bedding, 93
Berger, Anna Katherine, acknowledgment to, xi
Bering Strait, 1
Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Charles L., x
Betel nut, 241, 242
Bhamo, 294, 315, 317, 319;
railroad from, 81;
road to, 318;
description of, 320
Big Ravine, description of, 26;
temples near, 26
Birds, game, 90
_Blarina_, 176
Boat, Chinese, eye on, 15
Bode, Mr., 99
Bohea Hills, 64
Bound feet, 34
Bowdoin, George, x
Bradley, Dr., 78;
established leper hospital at Paik-hoi, 205
Brahmin priests, 186
Brahminy docks, 186;
habits of, 187
Bridge, suspension, description of, 218
Bridges, rope, 199
Brigand, seal of a pardoned, 210
Brigandage, 207, 208, 211
Brigands, 86;
beheading of, 41;
infest Yün-nan, 88;
description of, 96
British American Tobacco Co., Hongkong, 97, 100
British East Africa, 4
Brooke, Englishman, killed by Lolos, 174
Buffaloes, 265;
water, 218
Bui-tao, 60, 61
Bureau of Foreign Affairs, Director of, x
Burial, expenses of, 89
Burma, 8, 91, 191;
border of, 197, 241;
girls of, 242, 248, 248;
mammals caught near, 250;
frontier of, 264, 265, 294, 316;
boundary of, 319
Burmans, 289, 241

Calcutta, 297, 321
Caldwell, Rev. Harry R., xi, 8, 17, 20, 21, 22, 28, 24, 26, 27, 28, 29;
letter from, 82;
house of, 86;
stationed at Futsing, 44;
tiger hunting, method of, 45, 46, 55, 56, 61, 64, 141;
obtains serows at Yen-ping, 142;
purchases serow skins in Fukien, 148, 152, 154, 207
California, 8
_Callosciurus erythræus_, 89, 280
Camera equipment, 75
Canadian Pacific R.R. Co., Hongkong, General Passenger Agent of, xi
Cantonese, chiefly of Shan stock, 262
_Capricornulus crispus_, 140
_Capricornis sumatrensis_, 141
_Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes_, 29, 141
_Capricornis sumatrensis milne-edwardsi_, 141
Caravan, robbing of, 96; buying of, 104; renting of, 104
Caravan ponies, 104
Caravans, distance traveled by, 158, 197
Cary, F. W., Commissioner of Customs, 4, 77
_Casarca casarca_ (ruddy sheldrake), 186
Caverns, 162
Central Asia, 1
Central Asian plateau, 1
_Cervus macneilli_, 175
Chair-coolies, 317
Chairs, description of, 92, 517
Chang, Dr., 294
Chang-hu-fan, 20; night at, 21
Changlung, 273;
ferry at, 274, 281
Chien-chuan, 198
Chi-li, 7
China, 1, 2;
aboriginal inhabitants of, 3;
press, 13;
inland mission, 78, 101
Chinaman, Cantonese, 242
Chinese, Republic, xi, 2;
army of, 7;
face saving, 11;
Foreign Office, 11;
screaming, habit of, 15;
lack of sympathy of, 19;
not affected by sun, 22;
love of companionship, 22;
bride of, 69;
wedding of, 72;
dress of, 72;
Commissioner of Foreign Affairs, meeting with, 82;
education of, 88;
villages, description of, 90;
etiquette of, 102, 158, 190;
New Year, 212, 213, 214;
collecting debts of, 216
Chipmunk (_Tamiops macclellandi_), 230
Chi-yuen-kang, 26, 27, 29
Chou Chou, 99
Christians, native, persecution of, 21
Christianity, lesson in, 39
Christmas, 195;
celebration of, 196
Chu-hsuing Fu, 94, 204
Chung-tien, 172, 175, 176, 183, 201
Civet (_Viverra_), 246, 247
Clive, Captain, 268, 270, 378
Clothing, 75
Colgate, Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M., x
Collecting case, 228
Color plates, 240
Confucius, rules of, 67
Cook, difficulty in obtaining, 17;
description of, 105
Coolies, 54
Cormorants, 280
Corn, 91
Cows, used as burden-bearers by Chinese, 218
Cranes, 184; habits of, 185, 199, 236
Crossbows, 229
Cui-kau, 18;
description of, 80

Da-Da, 45, 54
Daing-nei, 54, 66
_Dâk_ (mail) bungalows, 319
Da-Ming, 33
Darjeeling, 144
Davies, Major H. R., ix, 93;
quoted, 137, 138, 139, 191
Dead, burying of, 151
Deer, 246, 301, 312, 313
Deer, barking, 63
Denby, Hon. Charles, 9
Dennet, Tyler, quoted, 152
D'Ollone, Major, member French Expedition, 174
D'Orleans, Prince Henri, 186
Dog, red, death of, 135
Dogs, description of, 115;
for food, 115
Doumer, M., Governor-General of French Indo-China, 93
Duai Uong, 51
Ducks, 90, 198;
brahminy, shooting off 199
Dupontès, Georges Chemin, assistance of, to expedition, 80

Eastes, Mr., Consul, 294
Education, foreign, 71
_Elaphodus_, 182
Elephants, 219, 222
Elk, 1
Ellsworth, Lincoln, x
Embry, Rev. and Mrs., China Inland Mission, members of, 294
Empress Dowager, 70;
issued edict prohibiting opium growing, 91
Equipment, purchase of, 4
Erh Hai or Ta-li Fu Lake, 199
Etiquette, 102
Europe, 1
European war, 8
Evans, H. G., xi;
assistance of, 100, 106, 186, 200, 298
Expedition, announcement of, 5;
applicants for positions on, 5;
results of, 316
Expeditions, preliminary, 2
Eye on Chinese boat, 15

Farmer, Mr., 320
Fauna, mammalian, 316
_Felis temmincki_, 108
_Felis uncia_, 108
Ferry, 160
Fletcher, H. G., 294, 295
Flying squirrel, 108, 191
Foochow, 8, 10, 11, 15, 16;
foreign residents of, 17;
streets of, 17, 23, 24, 85, 40;
mail from, 48;
schools for native girls at, 67;
woman's college at, 67, 206, 207, 209, 321
Food box, 74
Foot binding, origin of, 69;
method of, 70;
Natural Foot Society of, 70;
agitation against, 71
Forbidden City, 12
Ford, James B., x
Foreign Office, 97
Forest conservation, lack of, 88
Formosa, 11
Forrest, Mr., 294
Fossil animals, 108;
beds, 108
Francolins, 26
French Consul, 78
Frick, Childs, x
Frick, Henry C, x
Fukien Province, China, 8, 6, 10;
deforestation of, 24;
mammals of, 25, 26, 28, 29;
climate and temperature of, 68;
collecting in summer at, 68;
birds of, 64;
herpetology of, 64;
trapping for small mammals at, 64;
zoölogical study of, 64;
language of, 65;
travel in, 65;
servants in, 65;
serows hunted in, 148, 204;
missionary work in, 207
Funeral customs, 151, 158
Futsing, 43;
blue tiger hunting at, 54

Galapagos Islands, 4
_Gallus gallus_, 247
_Gallus lafayetti_, 248
_Gallus sonnerati_, 248
_Gallus varius_, 248
Gamblers, 215
Geese, 90, 198
Gen-kang, 224, 226, 229, 288
Gibbon (_Hylobates_), 258;
description of, 254, 255, 281, 284;
hunting of, 285
Goffe, Consul-General at Yün-nan Fu, 270
Goitre, prevalence of, 92
Gorals, 25, 76;
first hunt for, 120;
ceremonies at death of, 121, 123;
collecting for groups, 126;
color of, 126;
invisibility of, 128;
description of, 144;
horns of, 144;
distribution of, 144;
hunting of, 144, 194;
fighting of, 145;
habits of, 146;
feet of, 146, 194;
hunting of, at Hui-yao, 302, 309
Great Invisible, 44
Grierson, Ralph C, xi, 294, 295, 305, 317
_Grus communis_, 236
_Grus nigricollis_, 184

Habala, 164; hunting at, 165, 167
Haendel-Mazzetti, Baron, 113, 123, 126, 164
Hainan, description of, 77;
fauna of, 77
Haiphong, 77;
arrival at, 78, 79
Hanna, Rev. William J., xi, 79, 89, 101, 106, 201, 204, 205, 206, 294
Hanoi, description of, x, 79
_Harper's Magazine_, ix
Hartford, Mabel, 22, 23, 204
Heller, Edmund, 3, 4, 10, 61, 75, 79, 85, 94, 104, 105, 115, 116, 122,
123, 134, 135, 136, 146, 150, 161, 162, 173, 185, 195, 196, 227, 229,
247, 275, 276, 284, 291, 298, 299, 300, 306, 311, 312
Himalaya Mountains, 1
Hoi-hau, 77
Homes, 69
Ho-mu-shu, 281;
monkeys found near, 282, 283, 289, 291, 318
Hongkong, purchase of supplies at, 74, 200, 297, 321
Hoolock (_Hylobates hoolock_), 289
Hornbill, 245, 252
Horses, size of, 85, 104
Hospital attendants, 38
Hotenfa, 129, 130, 181, 182, 134, 185, 161, 171, 174, 193, 194, 195
Hsia-kuan, description of, 99, 108, 212
Hui-yao, 142, 145, 298, 300, 301, 306;
reptiles and lizards found at, 310, 313, 315
Hunan, 85, 86
Hung-Hsien, 11
Hunters, 114
Hutchins, Commander Thomas, 10
Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), massacre at, 28
_Hylobates_, 254, 289
_Hylomys_, 281, 251
_Hystrix_, 116

India, 1, 57, 321
Inns, 98
Irawadi River, 81, 269, 297, 320

Japan, 5, 8
Japanese newspaper reporters, 6
Joline, Mrs. Adrian Hoffman, x
Jungle fowl, 247, 248;
habits of, 248, 280.

Kachins, 289, 269;
women, appearance of, 241
Katha, 320
Kellogg, C. R., xi, 11, 15, 17, 48, 61, 66
Kok, Rev. and Mrs. A., xi;
Pentecostal missionary, 108;
assistance of, 112, 204, 294
Koko-nor, 186
Koo, Wellington, 9
Korea, 6;
pheasants found in, 187
Kraemer, M., xi
Kucheng, 28
Kwang-si, 9
Kwei-chau Province, 8, 9, 137

Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong, 77
Lang, Herbert, photograph of serow loaned by, 144
Languages and dialects, number of, 138;
reason for, 188, 139
Langur, 255
Langurs (_Pygathrix_), 257, 258
Lao-kay, first hotel on railroad, 81
Lapwings, 199
Las, 239
Lashio, 269
Legge, Prof. J., quoted, 68
Leopards, 25, 64
Leper hospital, 78
_Li_, length of, 84
Li-chiang, 96;
animal life on route to, 107;
arrival at, 107;
camp in, 108;
collecting in, 109;
mammals of, 109;
important fur market at, 110;
inhabitants of, 117;
return to, 150, 155, 157, 190, 196, 254, 257
Li-Hung Chang, 7
Ling-suik, monastery of, 61;
description of, 62;
priests at, 62;
collecting at, 63
Lisos, 191, 289, 292
Livingstone, H. W., xi, 19
Loads, weight of, 54
Lolos, 8, 184, 186;
depredations of, 137;
independence of, 188, 170;
dress of, 178;
capes worn by, 174, 188, 190
London Zoölogical Society's Garden, 141
Long Ravine, blue tiger seen at, 57
Lucas, Dr. F. A., acknowledgement to, x
Lui, Mr., salt commissioner at Hsia-kuan, 99
Lung-ling, 281, 282, 294
Lung-tao, 45, 54, 60, 63
Lutzus, 191, 292

McMurray, J. V. A., xi
_Macacus rhesus_, 258, 279, 305
_Mafus_, description of, 87
Mail, 290
Malaria, 274, 991
Malay Peninsula, 57
Ma-li-ling, 264, 266
Ma-li-pa, 265;
poppy fields at, 267, 269, 270, 272, 273
Mallard ducks, 186, 199
Mammals, small, importance of, 110;
preparing of, 227
Man, primitive, migrations of, 1
Man-eater, killing of, 49
Mandalay, 320
Mandarins, relations with, 102, 243
Ma-po-lo, low valley at, 225;
game at, 226;
fog in, 226
Marco Polo, 104
Massacre in Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), 23
Meadow vole (_Microtus_), 118, 122
Mekong, 191, 197
Mekong river, description of, 192, 193, 201, 292
Mekong-Salween divide, 190
Mekong valley, 177, 182;
vegetables in, 193;
zoölogy of, 193
Meng-ting, 226, 233;
description of, 236;
mandarin of, 236;
Buddhist monastery at, 238;
market at, 238;
Cantonese visit and buy opium at, 242;
fog at, 244;
valley at, 244;
birds at, 244
Mergansers, 186
Methodist mission, 24
Mexico, 4
Miao village, 273
Mice, 176
_Micromys_, 192
_Microtus_, meadow vole, 118, 122, 173
Min River, 15;
life on, 19, 88, 204
Mission hospital, 36;
China Inland, 101
Missionaries, 35, 40, 59, 67, 202;
servants of, 203;
natives trading with, 205;
civilizing influence of, 206
Mohammedan Chinese, married to a Shan, 246
Mohammedan hunter, 261, 264
Mohammedan war, 101
Mole, 176
Molloy, Agnes F., acknowledgment to, xi
Money, carrying of, 97;
transmitting of, 97
Monkey, 192, 195
Monkey temple, 258
Moose, 1
Morgan, Cordelia, 94, 95, 204
Mosos, 110;
description of, 111, 155, 165;
capes worn by, 174, 190, 229
Motion pictures, 76;
developing of, 315
Mountain goat, 1
"Mountain Goat Hunting with Camera," quoted from, 147
Mouse (_Micromys_), 192
Moving picture film, 166
Mu-cheng, 229, 238
Muntjac, description of, 28, 132, 225, 258, 292
Museum authorities, 9
Mustelidæ, 250
Myitkyina district, 269

_Næmorhedus griseus_, 144
Nam-ka, Shans at, 260;
description of, 260;
camp at, 264
Nam-ting River, ferry at, 235, 243;
camping at, 244, 245;
hunters at, 246;
camp on, 249;
polecat trapped at, 250;
monkeys, hunting at, 252;
hornbill, seen at, 253;
monkeys found at, 258;
Shans seen at, 260;
caravan crossed, 264, 284, 289, 291, 318
_Namur_, S. S., 297
Natives, 91;
inaccuracy of, 158
New York, return to, 321
Ngu-cheng, 205
Non-Chinese tribes, 3
North America, 1
Northern soldiers, 35, 42
Northern troops, 40

Opium, 91;
growing of, 91;
inspection of, 91;
scandal, 91;
smuggling of, 91, 267;
smoking of, 318
Osborn, Henry Fairfield, quoted, 146, 147

Pack saddle, description of, 85
Pack, weight of, 85
Page, Howard, 82, 84, 200
Paget color plates, 166, 200, 316
Pagoda Anchorage, 15, 66
Paik-hoi, 78;
leper hospital at, 205
Palaungs, 239
Palmer, Mr., 290, 294
Pandas, coats of, 103
Pangolin, scales of, 103
Parrots, 244
Partridges, bamboo, 245
Passports, 11
_Pavo cristatus_, 277
_Pavo munticus_, 277
Peacock, black-shouldered, 279
Peacock, hunting of, 274;
habits of, 277;
eggs of, 277;
domestication of, 278
Peacock, Indian, 277
Peafowl, killed on Salween River, 277;
flesh of, 277
Peking, 6, 7, 11, 12, 82, 209
_Petaurista yunnanensis_, 103
Phasianidæ, 279
Pheasants, shooting of, 90;
Lady Amherst's, 150;
silver, 279;
horned, 291
Phete, 167; country about, 168;
natives of, 168, 170
Photographic work, 166
Photographs in natural colors, 4
Photography, cinematograph, 316
Pigeons, 280
Pigs, killing of, 22;
wild, 25, 64;
treatment of, 90, 188
Pin-toil, 199
Pleistocene, 1
Pocock, Mr., 141
Polecat, 250
Polo, Marco, 176;
quoted, 219
Poppy blossoms, 265
Poppy fields, 91
Porcupine, description of, 115
Portable dark room, 166
Prjevalsky, Lieutenant-Colonel, 186
P'u-erh, 212
_Pygathrix_ (monkeys), 192, 195, 258

Railroad, Hanoi to Yün-nan, 80;
description of, 81
Rain, last of the season, 185, 290, 315, 317
Rainey, Paul J., 4
Rangoon, 269, 272, 279, 320, 321
_Ratufa gigantea_, 251
Rebellion of 1918, 8
Reinsch, Hon. Paul, xi, 10, 11
Republic, 16
Rhododendrons, 291
Rice, 168
Rice fields, 89
Rifle, Mannlicher, 75, 256, 266, 300;
Savage, 75, 271;
Winchester, 60, 75
Riot in Shanghai, 152
Roads, descriptions of, 87
Rocky Mountain sheep, 1
Roosevelt, Colonel Theodore, 4
_Rupicapra_, 140
Rupicaprine antelopes, horns of, 140

Salt, preparation of, 196, 197
Salween River, 278, 278;
heat of, 280, 282, 288, 305
Sambur, 226, 229;
hunting of, 311;
blood of, 312
Sammons, Mr., American Consul-General, 12
Sampans, first night in, 20
San Francisco, 5
Scandinavian steamer, 11
Schools for native girls, 67
Sclater, Mr., 278
Screaming, Chinese habit of, 15
Sedan chairs, 16
Serows, 25;
hunt for, 27;
habits of, 29, 64;
hunting for, 184;
description of, 185;
color variation of, 186;
Japanese, 140;
difference from gorals, 140;
horns of, 141;
relationship of, 141;
appearance of, 141;
killed on Snow Mountain, 142;
obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping, 142;
distribution of, 142;
habits of, 148;
weight of, 148, 305;
hunting of at Hoi-yao, 306, 307, 308, 309
Servants, wages of, 204
Shanghai, 11, 12;
riot in, 152, 316
Shans, 8, 225, 288, 242, 282;
description of village of, 284, 245;
houses of, 260;
heavily tattooed, 261;
tribes of, 262;
description of, 262, 288, 318
Sheldrakes, 186
Sherwood, George H., assistance rendered to Expedition by, x
Shia-chai, 218
Shih-tien, 223;
bird life at, 223;
natives, curiosity of, 224, 225
Shih-ku ferry, 182, 184
Shoverling, Daly & Gales, ammunition, guns, tents, furnished by, 4
Shrew, 178, 251
Shweli River, 145
Singapore, 321
Slave raiding, 189
Smith, Arthur H., quoted, 158, 214, 215
Snow Mountain, camp at, 112;
traveling to, 112;
description of hunters at, 114;
mammalogy of, 116;
camp on slopes of, 118;
mammals collected at, 127;
serows killed on, 142, 166, 176, 182, 184
Soldiers, guard of, 97;
guns of, 97;
expense of, 97;
use of, 97;
treatment by natives of, 98;
fight with, 187;
extortions of, 188
South America, 4
Specimens, packing of, 296, 315
Squirrel, flying (_Petaurista yunnanensis_), 291;
_Ratufa gigantea_, 251;
red-bellied (_Callosciurus erythræus_), 89, 280
S'suchuan Province, 8, 137, 174
S'su-mao, 178, 212
Standard Oil Co., xi;
launch of, 19, 82, 200
Su Ek, 207
Sun-birds, 244
_Sung-kiang_, S. S., 78

Tablets, ancestral, description of, 215
Tai-ping-pu, 291, 298
Taku, 160, 184
Taku ferry, 164
Ta-li Fu, soldiers guard to, 88;
road to, 99;
graves at, 100;
lake at, 100;
mandarin at, 100;
pagodas at, 100, 104, 105, 188, 186, 198, 200, 201
Ta-li Fu Lake, description of, 199
_Tamiops macclellandi_, 280
Taoist temple, 26
Tao-tai, 85
Tartars, 219, 221
Temple, camp in, 86
Teng-yueh, 4, 141, 289, 291, 298, 294, 295, 298, 318;
return to, 315, 317
Tents, 74
_Tenyo Maru_, 5, 9
Thompson, Dr., 205
Tibet, 8, 108, 172, 178;
monopoly of gold in, 181, 188
Tibetan plateaus, 191
Tibetans, description of, 178;
photographing of, 179;
dislike for strangers of, 180;
influence of Chinese on, 181, 183, 190, 191, 212
Tiger, 22, 25, 64;
man-eating, 44;
lairs of, 45;
stalking a goat, 45;
habits of, 46;
daring of, 47;
strength of, 48;
excitement of hunting, 49;
weight of, 50;
blood of, 50;
skins in temples of, 51;
food of, 51;
hunting in lair of, 51;
flesh and bones of, 51;
marking trees by, 52;
skins of, 103
Tiger, blue, 8, 43, 55;
description of, 56;
hunting of, 57;
trying to trap, 60
Tonking, 3, 77, 81, 93, 178, 212
Tragopan, Temminck's, 291
Transportation, difficulties of, 321
Trapping, methods of, 110
Traps, steel, 75;
method of setting, 245
Trees, marking of, by tiger, 52
Tribes, non-Chinese, description of, 138
Trimble, Dr., 32;
house of, 34, 36, 37, 205, 207
Trowbridge, Captain Harry, 77, 78, 79
Tsai-ao, General, 9
_Tsamba_, 178
Ts'ang mountains, 100
Tsinan-fu, 12
_Tupaia belangeri chinensis_, 89

United States, 4
Universal Camera, 76
_Ursus tibetanus_, 296

Vegetarians, 23
_Viverra_, 246
Viverridæ, 247
Vochang, 218
Vole, 173
Von Hintze, Admiral, 11

Wapiti, 1, 175
War, Mohammedan, 101
Was, 239
Waterhole, 258
Wa-tien, 310, 313
Wei-hsi, 182, 187, 190, 196
White Water, 149;
camp at, 149;
weather at, 149
Wild boar, 258
Wilden, Henry M., French Consul, 82
Wolves, 25
Woman's college at Foochow, 67
Women, position of, in China, 67
Worship, ancestor, 156
Wu Hung-tao, interpreter, x, 4, 77, 87, 102, 105, 108, 123, 136, 168,
187, 191, 200, 213, 238, 267, 289, 294, 312, 318, 321

_Yamen_, 39
Yangtze River, 19, 81, 137, 150;
road to, 157;
crossing of, 161;
barrier to mammals, 163, 184, 187, 193, 201, 262
Yangtze gorge, description of, 160, 164, 167
Yen-ping, 20, 22;
climate of, 24;
description of, 24;
residence of Mr. Caldwell at, 24;
Methodist Mission at, 24;
trapping at, 25;
rebellion in, 33;
refugees from, 33;
fighting in, 34;
attacked by rebels in, 35;
wounded in, 36;
schools for native girls at, 67;
Chinese wedding at, 72;
missionary buildings of, 203, 205, 207
Yokohama, 5
Yuan, 7, 8, 10, 12
Yuan Shi-kai, 7, 10;
death of, 12, 14, 34
Yuchi, 22;
brigands at, 23, 24, 35, 36, 204, 207, 208, 211
Yung-chang, Chinese New Year at, 212;
road to, 212, 214;
water buffaloes at, 218;
battle at, 218
Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road, 282
Yün-nan, xi;
size of, 2;
topography of, 3;
boundaries of, 3;
fauna of, 3;
natives of, 3;
language of, 3, 10, 25;
infested with brigands, 83;
zoölogical study of, 83;
meaning of, 88;
summer climate of, 99
Yün-nan Fu, 9;
foreign residents of, 82;
foreign office at, 97;
Dr. Thompson's hospital at, 205

Zoölogical Garden, Berlin, 144
Zoölogical Park, Calcutta, 144

* * * * *

Transcriber Note

Minor typos corrected. Hyphenation was generally standardized to the most frequently utilized version. Text was rearranged to avoid splitting by images. The terms Irawadi and Irrawaddy seem to both apply to the same River and valley. Both names retained.