Chapter I: Preface

I began to write this book by way of sequel to “My Diary North and South,” with the intention of describing Canada as I saw it at the close of my visit to North America, but the subject grew upon me as I went on, and at last I discarded much personal detail, and set to work with the view of calling attention to the capabilities of the vast regions belonging to the British Crown on the American Continent, and of pointing out the magnificent heritage which is open to our redundant population. But the subject was too great for the compass of one volume, because connected with it, too intimately to be overlooked, were the questions of the defence and of the future of countries, which the establishment of a Monarchical principle on an imperfect basis, and their dependence on the Crown, exposed to the hostility of a great Republic. I was, therefore, obliged to contract my own experiences, small as they were, and to omit many topics included in the original scope of my writing. The book was nearly finished when suddenly, as it seemed, the whole of the Provinces, yielding to a common sentiment of danger, sent their delegates to consider the policy and possibility of a great Confederation, which had been strongly recommended in the pages already written. The idea of such a Confederation was an old one; but the prompt resolve to carry it into practical effect, and the words spoken and acts done in consequence, rendered it necessary to cancel the work of many hours, as much of what I had written would have been anticipated by what has been printed. There are many dangers inherent in the nature of the proposed Confederation; there are many obstacles to its harmonious and successful working; but on the whole some such scheme appears to be the only practical mode of saving the British Provinces from the aggression of the North American Republicans.

What is to become of the existing Governments of Provinces? How regulate the contentions which may arise between Provincial Parliaments and Provincial Ministers and Provincial Governors by the action of the Federal Parliament and of the representative of the Crown at the seat of Government? The difficulties we foresee may never come to pass, and others far greater, of which we have no foresight, may arise; but for all this the Confederation presents the only means now available, as far as we can perceive, for securing to the Provinces present independence and a future political life distinct from the turbulent existence of the United States. A glance at the map will reveal the extent of the Empire which rests upon the Lakes with one arm on the Atlantic and the other on the Pacific, whilst its face is wrapped in a mantle of eternal snow; but it tells us no more. No reasoning man can maintain that the people whom a few years will behold as numerous as the inhabitants of these islands, will be content to live permanently under the system of the Colonial Office. That system is probably the only one our Constitution permits us to adopt; but it is nevertheless the policy, if not the duty, of this State to foster the youth and early life of the colonies we have founded, and to protect them, as far as may be, from the evils which shall come upon them in consequence of their present connection with Great Britain. Despised, neglected, and abandoned, the Provinces would feel less irritation against their conquerors than against their betrayers, and England might regret with unavailing sorrow the indifference which left her without a foot of land or a friend in the New World. Generosity not inconsistent with justice may yet lay the foundations of an enduring alliance where once there was only cold fealty and unsympathising command. A powerful State may arise whose greatest citizens shall be proud to receive such honours as the Monarch of England can bestow, whose people shall vie with us in the friendly contests of commerce, and stand side by side with us in battle. And when the inevitable hour of separation comes, the parting will not then be in anger. A Constitutional Republic, in which Monarchy would have been possible but for the prudence of the mother-country, may exist without any hatred of Monarchy or of England; and the people, born with equal rights to pursue liberty and happiness, would love the land from which flowed the sources of so many substantial blessings.

I hope that my apprehensions may prove ill-founded, and that the dangers to which our North American possessions now, and England herself and the peace of the world hereafter, are in my opinion exposed, may be for ever averted.

WILLIAM HOWARD RUSSELL.

TEMPLE, _January, 1865_.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

Introductory--Canada and the Mason and Slidell case--Threats
of annexation--Defence of Canada--Reasons for visiting the
British Provinces--Illness at New York--Hostility displayed
there--Monotony of New York--Hotel life--“Birds of a
feather”--Nationality absorbed--Start for Canada--Railway
Companions--Public credulity--A victory in the papers--History
of “A Big Fight”--General Pumpkin and Jefferson Brick 1

CHAPTER II.

To the Station--Stars and Stripes--Crowd at Station--Train impeded
by Snow--Classic ground--“Manhattan”--“Yonkers”--Fellow-travellers
and their ways--“Beauties of the Hudson”--West Point: their
education, &c.--Large Towns on the banks of the Hudson--Arrive at
East Albany--Delavan House--Beds at a premium--Aspect of Albany
not impressive--Sights--The Legislature 17

CHAPTER III.

Unpleasant journey to Niagara--Mr. Seward--The Union and its
dangers--Pass Buffalo--Arrival at Niagara--A “Touter”--Bad
weather--The Road--Climate compared--Desolate appearance
of houses--The St. Lawrence viewed from above--One hundred
years ago--Canada the great object of the Americans--The
Welland Canal--Effect of the Falls from a distance--Gradual
approach--Less volume of water in winter--Different effect and
dangers in winter--Icicles--Behind the Cataract--Photographs
and Bazaar--Visit the “Lions” generally--Brock--American and
Canadian sides contrasted--Goat Island--A whisper heard--Mills
and Manufactories 28

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Niagara--Suspension Bridge--In British territory--Hamilton
City--Buildings--Proceed eastward--Toronto--Dine at Mess--Pay
visits--Public edifices--Sleighs--Amusement of the boys--
_Camaraderie_ in the army--Kindly feeling displayed--Journey
resumed towards Quebec--Intense cold--Snow landscape--Morning
in the train--Hunger and lesser troubles--Kingston, its rise
and military position--Harbour, dockyards--Its connection with
the Prince of Wales’ Tour--The Upper St. Lawrence--Canada as
to defence 53

CHAPTER V.

Arrive at Cornwall--The St. Lawrence--Gossip on India--Aspect
of the country--Montreal--The St. Lawrence Hall Hotel--Story
of a Guardsman--Burnside--Dinner--Refuse a banquet--Flags--Climate
--_Salon-à-manger_--Contrast of Americans and English--Sleighs--The
“Driving Club”--The Victoria Bridge--Uneasy feeling--Monument to
Irish emigrants--Irish character--Montreal and New York--The
Rink--Sir F. Williams--Influence of the Northerners 71

CHAPTER VI.

Visit the “lions” of Montreal--The 47th Regiment--The city open to
attack--Quays, public buildings--French colonisation--Rise of
Montreal--Stone--A French-Anglicised city--Loyalty of Canadians
--Arrival of Troops--Facings--British and American Army compared
--Experience needed by latter--Slavery 87

CHAPTER VII.

First view of Quebec--Passage of the St. Lawrence--Novel and
rather alarming situation--Russell’s Hotel--The Falls of
Montmorenci, and the “Cone”--Aspect of the City--The
Point--“Tarboggining”--Description of the “Cone”--Audacity
of one of my companions--A Canadian dinner--Call on the
Governor--Visit the Citadel--Its position--Capabilities for
defence--View from parapet--The armoury--Old muskets--Red-tape
thoughtfulness--French and English occupation of Quebec--Strength
of Quebec 100

CHAPTER VIII.

Lower Canada and Ancient France--Soldiers in Garrison at
Quebec--Canadian Volunteers--The Governor-General Viscount
Monck--Uniform in the United States--A Sleighing Party--Dinner
and Calico Ball 121

CHAPTER IX.

Canadian view of the American Struggle--English Officers in
the States--My own position in the States and in Canada--The
Ursulines in Quebec--General Montcalm--French Canadians--Imperial
Honours--Celts and Saxons--Salmon Fishing--Early Government of
Canada--Past and Future 128

CHAPTER X.

Canadian Hospitality--Muffins--Departure for the States--Desertions
--Montreal again--Southerners in Montreal--Drill and Snow
Shoes--Winter Campaigning--Snow Drifts--Military Discontent 148

CHAPTER XI.

Extent of Canada--The Lakes--Canadian Wealth--Early History--La
Salle--Border Conflicts--Early Expeditions--Invasions from
New England--Louisburgh and Ticonderoga--The Colonial Insurrection
--Partition of Canada--Progress of Upper Canada--France and
Canada--The American Invasion--Winter Campaign--New Orleans and
Plattsburgh--Peace of Ghent--Political Controversies--Winter
Communication--Sentiments of Hon. Joseph Howe--General view of
Imperial and Colonial relations 158

CHAPTER XII.

The Militia--American Intentions--Instability of the Volunteer
Principle--The Drilling of Militia--The Commission of 1862--The
Duke of Newcastle’s Views--Militia Schemes--Volunteer
Force--Apathy of the French Canadians--The first Summons 200

CHAPTER XIII.

Possible dangers--The future danger--Open to attack--Canals
and railways--Probable lines of invasion--Lines of attack and
defence--London--Toronto--Defences of Kingston--Defences
of Quebec 222

CHAPTER XIV.

Rapid Increase of Population--Mineral Wealth--Cereals--Imports
and Exports--Climate--Agriculture--A Settler’s Life--Reciprocity
Treaty--Report of the Committee of the Executive Council--Mr.
Galt--Senator Douglas--A Zollverein--Terms of the Convention--Free
Trade, and what is meant by it--Mr. Galt’s opinion on the
subject--Canadian Imports and Exports 241

CHAPTER XV.

Reciprocal Rights--American Ideas of Reciprocity--The Ad Valorem
System--Commercial Improvements--Trade with America--The Ottawa
Route--The Saskatchewan--Fertility of the Country--Water
Communication--The Maritime Provinces--Area and Population 259

CHAPTER XVI.

The “Ashburton Capitulation”--Boundaries of Quebec--Arbitration
in 1831--Lord Ashburton’s Mission--The questions in dispute--“The
Sea” _v._ “The Atlantic”--American Diplomatists--Franklin’s
Red Line--Compromise--The Maps--Maine--Damage to Canada--Mr.
Webster’s Defence--His Opinion of the Road--Value of the
Heights--Our Share of Equivalents--Strategic value of Rouse’s
Point--Mr. Webster on the Invasion of Canada--Vermont--New
Hampshire 283

CHAPTER XVII.

The Acadian Confederation--Union is Strength--The Provinces--New
Brunswick--The Temperature--Trade of St. John--Climate and
agriculture of Nova Scotia--Newfoundland--Prince Edward Island--The
Red River District--Assiniboia--The Red River Valley--Minnesota
and the West--The Hudson’s Bay Company--Their Territory--The
North-West Regions--Climate of Winnipeg Basin--The area of
Winnipeg Basin--Finances of the Confederation--Imports, exports,
and tonnage--Proposed Federal Constitution--Lessons from the
American struggle 310

_Stanfords Geographical Estab^t. London._

London: Bradbury & Evans, 11 Bouverie Street.]

CANADA:

ITS DEFENCES, CONDITION, AND RESOURCES.