Chapter IV: Part 4: Home Food Preservation (3)

Pack foods tightly into containers. Since most foods expand during freezing, leave headspace between the packed food and closure.

For fruits that are in liquid, pureed, or crushed and packed in containers with wide openings, leave ½-inch headspace for pints, 1-inch headspace for quarts. If containers with narrow openings are used, leave ¾-inch headspace for pints, 1½-inch headspace for quarts.

For fruits and vegetables packed without liquid, leave ½-inch headspace for all types of containers. Vegetables that pack loosely, such as asparagus and broccoli, require no headspace.

Any container for freezer use must be capable of a tight seal. Rigid containers should have an airtight-fitting lid.

Press out all air from the unfilled parts of plastic bags. Immediately twist the top of each bag and securely tie it with a paper- or plastic-covered wire twist strip, rubber band, or string to prevent return of air to the bag.

Some bags may be heat-sealed with special equipment available on the market. Follow the manufacturer's directions.

Edges and ends of paper, foil, or plastic wraps should be folded over several times so the wrap lies directly on top of the food and all air has been pressed out of the package. Seal the ends with freezer tape to hold them securely in place.

Selecting and Preparing

Grow varieties of fruits and vegetables that freeze well. Your county Extension office can provide information on suitable varieties that grow well in your locality.

Produce selected for freezing should be of optimum eating quality. Freezing only preserves the quality of produce as it is at the time of freezing. It never improves quality.

Fruits to be frozen should be firm and ripe. Underripe fruit may have a bitter or off-flavor after freezing. Pick berries when ripe and freeze them as soon after picking as you can. Some fruits--apples, peaches, pears--may need to ripen further after harvesting. But take care they don't get too ripe. Frozen fruit prepared from overripe fruit will lack flavor and have a mushy texture.

Choose young, tender vegetables for freezing. Since vegetables lose quality quickly after harvest, freeze them as soon as possible for maximum quality. The sugar in corn, peas, and lima beans is rapidly lost when held too long before freezing. If you must hold vegetables and ripe fruits for a short while, refrigeration will help retain the just-picked freshness better than leaving produce at room temperature.

Wash small quantities of fruit gently in cold water. Do not permit fruit to stand in water for any length of time since it will become water-soaked and lose flavor and food value. Drain fruit thoroughly.

Peel fruit and remove pits or seeds. Halve, slice, chop, crush, or puree fruit as indicated in the instructions for each specific fruit. Some fruit, especially berries, may be left whole, but remove stems or hulls. Work with small quantities of fruit at a time, particularly if it is fruit that darkens rapidly. Two to three quarts is an adequate amount to handle at one time.

Pack fruit by sirup pack, sugar pack, or unsweetened pack. Most fruit has better texture and flavor with a sweetened pack. Apples, avocados, berries, grapes, peaches, persimmons, and plums can all be frozen satisfactorily without sweetening, but the quality is not quite as good as freezing in sirup or sugar. An unsweetened pack will give as good a quality product for gooseberries, currants, cranberries, rhubarb, and figs as a sweetened pack.

_Sirup pack._ Make a sugar sirup by dissolving sugar in water. A 40% sirup (3 cups of sugar to 4 cups of water) is recommended for freezing most fruits. Sirups containing less sugar are sometimes used for mild-flavored fruits; those with more sugar for very sour fruits. The type of sirup to use is specified in the directions for freezing each fruit. Allow ½ to 2/3 cup of sirup for each pint of fruit. Cut fruit directly into the freezer container, leaving the recommended headspace. Add sirup to cover fruit.

_Sugar pack._ Cut fruit into a large bowl. Sprinkle with sugar. The amount of sugar to use is specified in freezing directions for each fruit. Mix gently until juice is drawn from the fruit and all the sugar is dissolved. Pack fruit and juice into freezer containers.

_Unsweetened pack._ Some fruit may be packed dry, without added liquid or sugar. Other fruit, particularly if it darkens rapidly, can be covered with water to which ascorbic acid has been added. Crushed fruit or sliced fruit that is very juicy can be packed in its own juice without added liquid.

For all packs except the dry, unsweetened pack, liquid--either sirup, juice, or water--should completely cover the fruit. This prevents the top pieces from changing color or losing flavor due to exposure to air in the headspace.

A small crumpled piece of waxed or parchment paper placed on top of the fruit helps keep it pressed down in the liquid once the container has been sealed. The paper should loosely fill the headspace area. Do not use aluminum foil since acid in the fruit can cause the foil to pit (form holes), and tiny pieces of foil may drop into the food.

_Anti-darkening._ Many fruits darken during freezing, particularly if not kept under liquid. Darkening occurs when the fruit is exposed to air. Since a small amount of air is in the liquid as well as the tissues of fruit, some darkening can occur even when the fruit is submerged in liquid. To help retard darkening during freezer storage, add ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to the fruit during preparation.

Ascorbic acid is available in several forms from drug stores, some freezer locker plants, and some grocery stores that sell freezing supplies. Crystalline ascorbic acid is easier to dissolve in liquid than powder or tablet forms. The amount of ascorbic acid to use is given in the directions for those fruits where use of ascorbic acid is beneficial. Ascorbic acid mixtures containing sugar, and sometimes citric acid, also are available. Follow the manufacturer's directions for use of these products.

In preparing vegetables, wash a small quantity of the vegetable gently in several changes of cold water. Lift the vegetable out of the water each time so all dirt will settle to the bottom of the sink or pan.

Shell, husk, or peel and trim. Some vegetables such as lima beans, corn on the cob, and asparagus require sorting for size, since blanching times depend on size of the pieces.

Blanch the vegetable (this is not necessary for green peppers and mature onions). Most vegetables are blanched by heating them in boiling water. A blancher consisting of a tall kettle, basket, and cover is convenient to use and can be purchased at most department or farm supply stores. However, any large pan which can be fitted with a wire or perforated metal basket and covered is suitable.

To insure adequate blanching, immerse a basket containing a small amount of the vegetable (1 pound) into a large amount of boiling water (at least 1 gallon). Start timing once the vegetable has been immersed and the kettle is covered. Blanching time will vary with the vegetable and the size of the pieces, so follow the recommended blanching times for each vegetable.

Cool the vegetable by immersion in a large quantity of cold or iced water. Rapid cooling is necessary to stop the food from cooking. Cool the vegetable for about the same length of time as it was heated. Once cooled, do not leave the vegetable standing in water, as loss of flavor and food value can occur. Drain the cooled vegetable thoroughly before packaging.

Other methods of blanching and cooling are recommended for some vegetables. For example, mushrooms are heated by sauteing, tomatoes by simmering in their own juice. These foods are cooled by setting the pan of food in cold or iced water to speed cooling.

Freezing and Storing

After packing and sealing containers, label them with the name of the food, type of pack (for fruits), and date of freezing. Freeze food soon after packing, placing a few packages at a time in the freezer as you have them ready.

Freeze food at 0°F or below. Do not load the freezer with more food than can be frozen in 24 hours. Usually 2 to 3 pounds of food per cubic foot of freezer capacity can be frozen at a time. Place packages on freezing coils or plates or in fast-freeze section of freezer, leaving a space between each package. Loading the freezer in this manner enables the food to be frozen quickly. Freezing foods too slowly can result in loss of quality.

Once food has frozen, stack containers. Keep freezer surfaces relatively free from frost to insure maximum operating efficiency of your freezer.

Fruits and vegetables stored at 0° F or below will maintain high quality for 8 to 12 months. Unsweetened fruit loses quality more rapidly than sweetened fruit.

Keeping food longer than the recommended time will not make it unsafe to eat, but some quality loss can occur.

Thawing

Home-frozen fruits and vegetables are convenient and easy to use since most of their preparation is done before freezing. Thaw frozen fruit in the refrigerator, or at room temperature in a pan of cool water. Leave fruit in the unopened freezer container.

A pint package of fruit frozen in sirup will take about 6 to 8 hours to thaw in the refrigerator, or ½ to 1 hour in a pan of cool water. Fruit in sugar packs takes less time. Unsweetened packs need more time than sirup packs. For best eating quality, serve fruit with a few ice crystals remaining.

Cook most frozen vegetables without thawing first. (Corn on the cob and leafy vegetables require partial thawing to insure even cooking.) Add the vegetable to boiling salted water. Use 1 cup of water and 1 teaspoon of salt for each quart of vegetable with these exceptions: Use 2 cups of water for lima beans; water-to-cover for corn on the cob. Cover the saucepan during cooking. Cook the vegetable only until tender. Avoid overcooking.

Consult timetable in freezing directions for recommended times for cooking home-frozen vegetables.

How to Freeze Strawberries[11]

1. Select strawberries:
Choose firm, ripe red berries with a slightly tart flavor
Allow about 1½ quarts fresh strawberries for each quart to be
frozen
2. Prepare strawberries:
Wash berries in cold water; drain well
Remove hulls
3. Pack into rigid freezer containers:
To pack in sirup--
Prepare ahead of time a 50 percent sirup by dissolving 4¾ cups
sugar in 4 cups of water; this will make 6½ cups sirup
Add about ½ cup sirup to each container
Put berries into prepared containers
To pack in sugar--
Add ¾ cup sugar to each quart berries
Mix gently until sugar is dissolved and juice is drawn from
berries
Pack strawberries with juice in containers
To pack unsweetened--
Put berries into containers
For better color, cover with cold water containing 1 teaspoon
ascorbic acid per quart of water
For all packs--
Press fruit gently down in each container; add liquid (sirup,
juice, or water) to cover fruit, unless fruit is packed dry,
unsweetened
Leave recommended amount of headspace (See earlier reference)
Put a small piece of crumpled waxed paper on top of berries to
keep them down in liquid
Wipe all liquid from top and sides of containers
Seal tightly with lid
Label with name of fruit, type of pack, and date of freezing
4. Freeze strawberries:
Immediately after packaging, place berries in freezer set at 0° F
or below; leave space around each container for faster
freezing
Do not freeze more than 1 quart of berries per cubic foot of
freezer capacity at a time
Stack containers of berries once frozen; store at 0° or below

How to Freeze Green Peas[12]

1. Select green peas:
Choose bright-green, plump, firm pods with sweet, tender peas (do
not use immature or tough peas)
Allow 4 to 5 pounds fresh peas for each quart to be frozen
2. Prepare green peas:
Shell peas
Wash shelled peas in cold water; drain
3. Blanch green peas:
Bring 1 gallon water to a boil in a large kettle
Put peas (1 pound) in blanching basket
Lower basket into boiling water
Cover kettle and heat peas 1½ minutes
Chill peas promptly in cold or iced water 1½ minutes
Drain cooled peas
4. Pack green peas:
Pack drained, blanched peas in freezer containers (See reference
on containers in early part of chapter)
Leave ½-inch headspace between peas and closure
Seal containers tightly
Label each package with name of vegetable and date
5. Freeze green peas:
Immediately after packaging, place peas in freezer set at 0° F or
below; leave space around each container for faster freezing
Do not freeze more than 2 to 3 quarts of peas per cubic foot of
freezer capacity at a time
Stack packages of peas once frozen; store at 0° F or below

For Further Reading:

_Home Freezing of Fruits and Vegetables_, U.S. Department of Agriculture
H&G Bul. No. 10, on sale by Superintendent of Documents, U.S.
Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402. 75¢.

Jellies, Jams, Marmalades, Preserves

_by Catharine C. Sigman and Kirby Hayes_[13]

Changing fruit into a variety of products such as jellies, jams, marmalades, and preserves can be most rewarding. These products serve as a good way to use fruit that is not completely suitable for canning or freezing, while adding variety and economy to the home food preservation plan.

Jams, jellies, and preserves are similar in that they are preserved using sugar, and all are jellied or partially jellied. Each differs from the other due to the fruit used, ratio of ingredients, and methods of preparation.

Jelly is made using fruit juice. It is clear and firm enough to hold its shape when removed from the jar.

Jam is made from crushed or macerated fruit. Less firm than jelly, it spreads more easily.

Conserves are jams made from a mixture of fruits including citrus. Sometimes nuts and raisins are added.

Preserves are whole fruits or large pieces of fruit in a sirup that varies in thickness.

Marmalades are usually made from pulpy fruits, with skin and pulp suspended in a clear, jellied liquid. For citrus marmalades, the peel is sliced very thin.

Butters are made by cooking fruit pulp with sugar to a thick consistency which spreads easily.

Jellied fruit products need a balanced ratio of fruit, acid, pectin, and sugar for best results.

Fruit provides the characteristic color and flavor, and furnishes at least part of the pectin and acid that combines with added sugar to give the desired gel. Full flavored fruits are needed to offset the dilution of flavor by the large proportion of sugar used.

Pectin is the actual jellifying substance and is found in many fruits in adequate quantity. If pectin is lacking, apple juice extract or commercial pectin may be used. All fruits have more pectin when underripe.

Commercial pectin is available in both liquid and powder forms. It is essential to follow the manufacturer's instructions or tested recipes as in U.S. Department of Agriculture publications. These preparations generally bring higher yields plus the advantages of being able to use fully ripe fruit, with a shorter cook time and more uniform results.

Acid content varies among fruits and is higher in underripe fruits. Acid is needed both for gel formation and for flavor. When fruits are low in acid, lemon juice or citric acid may be used. Commercial pectins also have added acid.

Either beet or cane sugar in fruit products acts as a preserving agent, helps in forming the gel, and enhances the finished product's flavor. In preserves, sugar aids in firming the fruit or fruit pieces.

Sweeteners such as brown sugar, sorghum and molasses are not recommended since their flavor overpowers the fruit flavor and their sweetness varies.

Other than artificial sweeteners, suitable sugar replacements are light corn sirup and light, mild honey. Neither can substitute fully for sugar on a one-to-one basis. For best results use a tested recipe, but if one is not available replace about ¼ to ½ of the sugar with corn sirup or honey. Longer boiling (for recipes without pectin) may be required since additional moisture is being added.

Fruits for jellied products without added pectin must be hard ripe and full flavored, or in a proportion of ¾ fully ripe and ¼ underripe, in order to provide the needed pectin. If liquid or powdered pectin is used, fully ripe fruit is best.

After sorting to remove overripe or undesirable fruit, wash in cold running water or several changes of cold water. Prepare fruit according to the specific recipe, discarding any spoiled or bruised portions. Only the amount needed should be prepared to prevent quality loss.

Jam and Jelly Equipment

Water bath canner
Jelly thermometer
Timer
Widemouth funnel
Large, flat-bottomed kettle (8-10 qt.)
Measures
Measuring cup and spoons
Food chopper or masher
Long-handled spoon
Colander
Ladle
Jar lifter
Jelly bag and cheesecloth
Jelmeter
Canning jars and fittings

Extraction

In jelly making, juice is extracted either by crushing, by limited heating using small amounts of water, or by longer cooking with measured amounts of water. Heating aids in pectin extraction for those recipes not using added pectin.

The prepared fruit is put in a damp jelly bag or several thicknesses of damp cheesecloth, tied, and hung to drip. The clearest juice will be free run, but yields increase if the bag is pressed or twisted. Re-straining this juice is recommended. Do not squeeze or press.

Jams, jellies, and preserves can be made with added pectin or without it, depending on the fruit. Fruits such as raspberries, strawberries, and peaches generally need added pectin. Apples, crabapples, currants, plums, grapes, and quinces--if not overripe--contain enough pectin and acid for good gel strength.

Pectin content can be checked visually by mixing 1 tablespoon of cool cooked fruit juice and 1 tablespoon of denatured alcohol and mixing. Fruit high in pectin will form a jellylike mass while fruit low in pectin will show little clumping. Caution: Do not taste; the mixture is poisonous.

Pectin may also be tested using a jelmeter. This graduated glass tube measures the rate of fruit juice flow through the tube, giving a rough estimate of the amount of pectin present.

Jellied fruit products made without added pectin require less sugar per fruit unit and need longer boiling to reach the end point. The yield of finished product is less than that with added pectin.

Pectin added to fruit, either in powder or liquid form, must be used in recipes designating the type. Powdered pectin is mixed with the unheated fruit juice or unheated crushed fruit.

Liquid pectin is added to the boiling fruit juice or fruit and sugar mixture. The boiling time of 1 minute for both types is used and must be accurately timed. Regardless of type, or whether pectin is used, you must follow directions closely, taking accurate measurements.

When It's Done

One of the largest concerns when making jelly without added pectin is to know when it is done, or judging the end point. Two of the most frequently used methods for testing doneness of jelly without added pectin are the temperature test and the spoon or sheet test.

The temperature test is the most scientific method and probably the most dependable. Before cooking jelly, take the temperature of boiling water with a jelly or candy thermometer. Cook the jelly mixture to a temperature 8° F higher than the boiling point of water. If cooked to this point, the jelly mixture should form a satisfactory gel. Cook other jellied mixtures to a temperature 9° higher than the boiling point of water.

To get an accurate reading, place the thermometer in a vertical position with the bulb completely covered by the jelly mixture but not touching the bottom of the kettle. Stir jam, preserve, conserve, and marmalade mixtures before taking the temperature. Read the thermometer at eye level.

To test the jellying point by the spoon or sheet test, dip a cool metal spoon into the boiling jelly mixture and lift the spoon so the sirup runs off the side. When the sirup no longer runs off the spoon in a steady stream, but two drops form together and sheet off the spoon, the jelly should be done.

Once the jellying point is reached, quickly pour jelly into sterilized containers. When sealing jelly with lids, use only standard canning jars and new lids. Pour the boiling hot jelly mixture into sterilized hot jars, leaving 1/8 inch head space. Wipe the jar rims clean, place hot metal lids on jars with the sealing compound next to the glass, screw the metal bands down firmly, and stand the jars upright to cool.

The paraffin seal is recommended only for jelly. Pour the boiling hot jelly mixture into sterilized hot containers, leaving ½ inch head space. Cover hot jelly with hot paraffin to make a single thin layer 1/8 inch thick. Paraffin should touch all sides of the container. Prick air bubbles in the paraffin.

Heat processing of jams, preserves, conserves, and marmalades is recommended, especially in warm or humid climates. Place filled jars on a rack in a water bath canner or other large container filled with hot water. The water should be an inch or two over the tops of the jars. Cover canner. Bring the water to a rolling boil and boil gently for five minutes.

Remove the products from the canner immediately when the processing time is up. Place the containers on a rack or folded cloth away from drafts to cool.

Let jellied products stand overnight to avoid breaking the gel. Remove screw bands, and label the containers with the name of the product and the date. Store in a cool, dry place. Jellied products have a much better flavor and color if stored only for a short time.

If It Doesn't Gel

What if the jelly doesn't gel? Try using it as a topping for pancakes or ice cream, or try recooking the mixture. To remake jelly without added pectin, heat the jelly to boiling and boil for a few minutes until the jellying point is reached. Remove the jelly from the heat, skim, pour into hot, sterilized containers and seal.

How to Prevent Problems With Jellied Products

Problem Cause Prevention

Formation of Excess sugar Test fruit juice with jelmeter for
crystals proper proportions of sugar
Undissolved sugar Wipe side of pan free of crystals
sticking to sides with damp cloth before filling
of kettle jars
Tartrate crystals Make grape jelly stock, and let
in grape juice tartrate crystals settle out
before making jelly. Then strain
through two thicknesses of
cheesecloth to remove crystals
Mixture cooked too Cook at a rapid boil. Remove from
slowly or too long heat immediately when jellying
point is reached
Syneresis or Excess acid in Maintain proper acidity of juice
"weeping" juice makes
pectin unstable
Storage place too Store in a cool, dark and dry place
warm or storage
temperature
fluctuated
Paraffin seal too Seal jelly with a single thin layer
thick of paraffin 1/8 inch thick. Prick
air bubbles in paraffin
Too soft Overcooking fruit Avoid overcooking as this lowers
to extract juice the jellying capacity of pectin
Incorrect Follow recommended instructions
proportions of
sugar and juice
Undercooking Cook rapidly to jellying point
causing
insufficient
concentration
Insufficient acid Avoid using fruit that is overripe.
Lemon juice is sometimes added if
fruit is acid deficient
Making too large a Use only 4 to 6 cups of juice in
batch at one time each batch of jelly
Too stiff or Overcooking Cook jelly mixture to a temperature
tough 8° F higher than the boiling
point of water or until it
"sheets" from a spoon
Too much pectin in Use ripe fruit
fruit
Cloudy Green fruit (starch) Use firm, ripe fruits or slightly
underripe
Imperfect straining Do not squeeze juice but let it
drip through jelly bag
Jelly allowed to Pour into jars immediately upon
stand before it reaching jellying point. Work
was poured into quickly
jars or poured
too slowly
Bubbles Kettle was not held Hold kettle close to top of jar and
close to top of pour jelly quickly into jar
jar as jelly was
poured, or jelly
was poured slowly
and air became
trapped in hot
jelly
May denote spoilage. Follow recommended methods to get
airtight seal
If bubbles are
moving, do not use
Mold Imperfect seal Use recommended methods to get
(denotes airtight seal
spoilage;
do not use)
Lack of proper Sterilize jelly glasses and all
sanitation equipment used

To remake with powdered pectin, measure ¼ cup sugar, ¼ cup water, and 4 teaspoons powdered pectin for each quart of jelly. Mix the pectin and water and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Add the jelly and the sugar, stir thoroughly, and bring to a full rolling boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Boil the mixture hard for 30 seconds, remove from the heat, pour into hot containers and seal.

To remake with liquid pectin, measure ¾ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons liquid pectin for each quart of jelly. Bring the jelly to a boil over high heat. Add the sugar, lemon juice and liquid pectin and bring to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. Boil the mixture hard for 1 minute. Remove the jelly from the heat, skim, pour into hot, sterilized containers and seal.

High quality jellied products depend on many factors so there may be several possible solutions to problems in making these products. Some common problems and their prevention are given in the table.

For Further Reading:

_How To Make Jellies, Jams and Preserve at Home_, H&G Bul No. 56, on
sale by Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing
Office, Washington, D.C. 20402. 55¢.

Pickles, Relishes Add Zip and Zest

_by Isabelle Downey_[14]

Pickles or relishes can add zip and zest to your meals, snacks and party refreshments. They contain small amounts of nutrients, depending on ingredients used in making them. But they have little or no fat and are low in calories, except for the sweet varieties.

Sun-drying, salting, smoking and pickling were methods used in ancient times for preserving food. Pickling is still popular today.

Pickling is preserving foods in vinegar or brine or a combination of the two. Other ingredients are sometimes added to make pickles crisp and spicy.

Relishes and some pickles can be made in a few hours. Other pickles may take three to six weeks.

There are four basic classifications of pickle products, depending on ingredients used and method of preparation.

_Brined pickles_ are sometimes called fermented pickles and take three weeks or longer to cure. Dilled cucumbers, sauerkraut and some vegetables are often prepared this way. Cucumbers change from a bright green to an olive or yellow green while the interior becomes uniformly translucent. Sauerkraut is tart and tangy in flavor, creamy-white in color, and crisp and firm.

_Fresh pack pickles_ are also called the quick process. This method is very popular for the family with limited time. Ingredients are combined and put directly in the jar to be heat processed, or combined and heated a short time before being placed in the jar for heat processing.

_Fruit pickles_ are usually made of whole fruits simmered in a spicy, sweet-sour sirup. Some of the favorites are peach, pear and watermelon rind.

_Relishes_ are made from chopped fruits or vegetables (or a combination), with seasonings added and cooked to a desired consistency. They can be hot, spicy, sweet or sour, depending on the recipe used. Corn relish, chili sauce, catsup, chow-chow and chutney are popular examples.

Always use a tested recipe; one that is current and reliable. Too little of one ingredient and too much of another could cause the pickles to be unsafe to eat. Read the complete recipe before starting the preparation, and be sure you understand exactly what you are to do. Check to see you have all the ingredients. Accurate measurements and weights are most important in making pickles and relishes if a quality and safe product is to be the result.

Use only good quality fruits and vegetables. Select tender vegetables and firm ripe fruit. Pears and peaches may be slightly underripe for pickling. The pickling type cucumber is the variety you will want to use. The salad (slicing) variety does not make a crisp pickle. Contact your county Extension office for the variety grown in your area.

Wax-coated cucumbers bought from the vegetable counter are not suitable for pickling because brine cannot penetrate the wax. Besides, cucumbers for pickling should be used within 24 hours after gathering. If they are kept--even refrigerated--longer than 24 hours before the pickling process begins, you may have a poor quality product.

Always remove the blossom. This may contain fungi or yeasts which could cause enzymatic softening of the cucumber. If whole cucumbers are to be brined, you may want to leave a ¼-inch stem.

Do not use vegetables or fruits that have even a slight evidence of mold or decay.

In preparing fruits and vegetables to be pickled, wash them thoroughly in cold water whether they are to be peeled or not. Lift out of the water each time, so soil that has been washed off will not drain back over them. Rinse the pan thoroughly between each washing. This is a good time to check again to see if you have fruits or vegetables that should not be used. Too, you can sort as to size, shape and color. This makes for a uniform pack and attractive product.

Ingredients

SALT--Pure granulated salt with no noncaking material or iodine added is best. This is sold as pickling salt, "barrel" salt, and "kosher" salt. Pickling salt is sold at the grocery store and "barrel" salt from many farm supply stores.

Table salt contains noncaking materials that may interfere with fermentation during brining. It also may make the brine cloudy. Iodized salt may darken pickles. Never use ice cream salt or rock salt--they are not food-pure.

VINEGAR--Use a 4 to 6 percent acidity (40 to 60 grain) cider or white vinegar. Read the label, for if it does not have the amount of acidity listed, it should not be used for making pickles or relishes. Some vinegar has 19 percent acidity--this must be diluted. Directions are on the label. Don't use homemade vinegar since the acidity is not known.

Cider vinegar, used in most recipes, has a good flavor and aroma but may discolor pears, cauliflower, onions; therefore white distilled vinegar is used for these. If a less sour product is preferred, choose a recipe that has more sugar. Do not use less vinegar than the recipe specifies.

SUGAR--Granulated, white sugar is used in most pickles. However, some recipes have brown sugar as an ingredient and say so.

SPICES AND HERBS--Always use fresh spices and herbs for best flavor. They deteriorate and lose their pungency in heat and humidity. If they are not to be used immediately, store them in an airtight container in a dark, dry, cool place.

Whole spices, if left in the jar with the pickles, will darken them; therefore they can be tied in a thin cloth bag and removed just before pickles are packed into the jar. Ground spices tend to darken pickles and relishes.

WATER--It is best not to use hard water in brining. If you have hard water, boil it in a stainless steel or uncracked enamel container for 15 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and let sit for 24 hours. Remove any scum which might have formed. Slowly pour water from the container so that sediment will not be disturbed. The water is now ready to use.

Equipment

Having the right kind, size and amount of equipment and tools can save you time and energy. Check these the day before you plan to make your pickles. Otherwise you may not have what you need.

For fermenting or brining use a crock or stone jar that has never had fat or milk in it. An unchipped enamel-lined pan, glass or stainless steel are also O.K. Do not use plastic.

To cover vegetables while they are in a brine, you will need a heavy plate or large glass lid that fits inside the container. Use a filled jar of water to hold the cover down, so that vegetables are kept below the surface of the brine. Be sure the jar has a tight fitting lid.

For heating pickling liquids, use utensils of unchipped enamelware, stainless steel, aluminum or glass. Do not use copper, brass, galvanized or iron utensils; these metals may react with acids or salts and cause undesirable color changes in pickles or form undesirable compounds.

Among small utensils that will help you do the job are measuring spoons, stainless steel spoons, measuring cups, household scales, sharp knives, vegetable peelers, large trays, canning tongs, ladle with a lip for pouring, slotted metal spoons, footed colander or wire basket, canning funnel, food chopper or grinder, and non-porous cutting board.

All pickles and relishes should be processed in a boiling-water bath canner. Any large metal or enamel container may be used if it:

--Is deep enough to allow 2 inches or more of water above the tops of
the jars, plus extra space for boiling

--Has a close-fitting cover

--Is equipped with a wire or wooden rack

A steam-pressure canner can be used if it is deep enough. For this purpose, set the cover in place without fastening it. Be sure the petcock is wide open so that steam escapes and pressure is not built up.

Standard home canning jars are used for pickles and relishes. Do not use jars and lids from commercially canned foods. They are designed for use on special packing machines and are not suitable for home canning.

Select jars free from nicks, chips or any defects. As you wash the jars in warm soapy water and rinse them, run your finger around the jar opening to see if there is a defect. If there is, the jar will not seal.

Look at each new metal lid to be sure the sealing compound is even and smooth. Check the metal screw band to see that it is not bent or rusty. Bands can be used over and over again. As for pretreatment of lids and bands, follow the manufacturer's directions. Read these even if you have used that brand before; the directions may have changed.

When using rubber rings get clean, new ones that are the right size for the jars. Do not test these by stretching. Follow the manufacturer's directions as to pretreatment needed.

It is always best to follow current, reliable procedures as in U.S. Department of Agriculture or Extension publications. This insures a quality product and one that is safe to eat. Time, energy and money may be wasted if you use outdated or careless canning procedures.

Fill the jars firmly and uniformly with the pickle product. Avoid over-packing so tightly that the brine or sirup is prevented from filling around and over the product. Slide a plastic spatula down each side of the jar to remove any air spaces. Add enough liquid to cover the pickles. Be sure to allow head space at the top of the jar as recommended in the recipe. This means there is no food or liquid in that space.

Wipe the rim, inside and top, and threads of the jar with a clean, damp cloth to remove any particles of food, spices, seeds or liquid. A small particle may prevent an airtight seal.

The two-piece metal cap (flat metal lid with sealing compound and metal screw band) is the most commonly used closure. Read the manufacturer's directions on treatment needed to close the lid. These vary from one manufacturer to another.

When using a porcelain-lined zinc cap with shoulder rubber ring, screw the cap down firmly against the wet rubber ring, then turn it back one-fourth inch. Immediately after processing and removal of the jar from the canner, screw the cap down tight to complete the seal.

If liquid has boiled out of a jar during processing, do not open it to add more liquid, because spoilage organisms may enter. This applies to 2-piece lids also. Seal the jar as it is.

Heat Treatment

All pickle products require heat treatment to destroy organisms that cause spoilage and to inactivate enzymes that may affect flavor, color and texture. Adequate heating is best achieved by processing the filled jars in a boiling-water bath.

Spoilage organisms are in the air and there is danger of them contaminating the food as it is transferred from boiler to jar. This can happen when even the utmost care is taken. Therefore, boiling-water bath processing is needed.

After adjusting the lid, put the jar on the rack into the actively boiling water.

Now that the jar is in the water bath canner, fill the next jar. Continue until all jars are in the canner. Be sure to leave a small space around each jar. This allows the water to circulate. Water should come 2 or more inches above jar tops; add boiling water if necessary.

Cover the canner with a close-fitting lid and bring the water back to boiling as quickly as possible. Start to count the processing time when the water returns to boiling, and continue to boil gently and steadily for the recommended time according to the recipe.

When time is up, slide the canner from the hot range unit. Close windows and doors so that a draft will not be blowing on jars as they are removed. As you remove the lid, be sure to do this away from you so that you will not be burned by steam. Remove one jar at a time, using your canning tongs. Complete the seals if the manufacturer so directs. Set jars upright, away from a draft, and several inches apart, on a dry cloth or wire rack to cool. Do not cover with a cloth.

For fermented (brined) cucumbers and fresh-pack dills, start to count the processing time as soon as all the filled jars are in the actively boiling water. This prevents development of a cooked flavor and loss of crispness.

Most pickle and relish recipe processing times are given for altitudes less than 1,000 feet above sea level. If you are 1,000 feet or above, you need to increase the recommended processing time. See table in canning chapter by Carole Davis.

After 12 to 24 hours, check to make sure the jars have an airtight seal. Read the manufacturer's directions but if these are not given, here are some general ways to tell if the seal is airtight. For the metal lid with a sealing compound and the metal screw band, if the center of the lid has a slight dip or stays down when pressed, the jar is sealed. Another test is to tap the center of the lid with a spoon. A clear, ringing sound means a good seal. A dull note, however, does not always mean a poor seal. Another way to check for an airtight seal is by turning the jar partly over. If there is no leakage, the jar may be stored.

If the porcelain-lined zinc cap with rubber ring has been used, check for airtight seal by turning the jar partly over. If there is no leakage, the seal is tight.

If the jar is not sealed, use the product right away or recan it. To recan, empty the jar, repack in another clean jar, use a new lid, and reprocess the product as before.

If metal bands are used, these can be removed from jars after 24 hours if you want to.

Wipe jars with a clean, damp cloth. Make a label for the jar. Put the name of the product and date on the label.

Store canned pickles and relishes in a dark, dry, cool place where there is no danger of freezing. Freezing may crack the jars or break the seals, and let in bacteria.

Before using, always examine each jar for signs of spoilage. A bulging lid or leakage may mean that the contents are spoiled.

When a jar is opened look for other signs of spoilage such as:

--Spurting liquid

--Mold

--Disagreeable odor

--Change in color

--Unusual softness, mushiness or slipperiness

_If there is ever the slightest indication of spoilage, do not eat or even taste the contents._ Dispose of the contents so they cannot be eaten by humans or animals. Also dispose of the lid.

After emptying the jar of spoiled food, wash the jar in hot, soapy water and rinse. Boil in clean water for 15 minutes.

Pickle Problems

_Why are pickles soft or slippery?_

This generally results from microbial action which causes spoilage. Once a pickle becomes soft it cannot be made firm again. Microbial activity may be caused by

--Too little salt or acid
--Cucumbers not covered with brine during fermentation
--Scum not removed from brine during fermentation
--Insufficient heat treatment
--Seal is not airtight
--Moldy garlic or spices

Blossoms, if not removed from the cucumbers before fermentation, may contain fungi or yeasts responsible for enzymatic softening.

_Why are pickles shriveled?_

--Using too strong a vinegar, sugar or salt solution at the start of
the pickling process. In making the very sweet or very
sour pickles, it is best to start with a dilute solution
and increase gradually to the desired strength
--Overcooking
--Overprocessing

_Why are pickles dark?_

--Use of ground spices
--Too much spice
--Whole spices left in jar
--Iodized salt
--Minerals in water, especially iron
--Overcooking

_What causes garlic to turn purple or blue?_

--Garlic contains anthocyanins, a water soluble pigment also found in
beets. This changes color very easily and with the acid
condition in pickles, turns blue or purple in color

_How can you tell if sauerkraut is spoiled?_

--Undesirable color
--Off odors
--Soft texture

_Why does kraut get soft?_

--Insufficient salt
--Too high temperatures during fermentation
--Uneven distribution of salt
--Air pockets caused by improper packing

_Why does kraut get pink?_

This is caused by growth of certain types of yeast on the surface of the kraut due to:

--Too much salt
--Uneven distribution of salt
--Kraut improperly covered or weighted during fermentation

_Why does kraut turn dark?_

--Unwashed and improperly trimmed cabbage
--Insufficient juice to cover fermenting cabbage
--Uneven distribution of salt
--Exposure to air
--Long storage period
--High temperature during fermentation, processing and storage

For Further Reading:

_Making Pickles and Relishes at Home_, H&G Leaflet #92, on sale by
Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office,
Washington, D.C. 20402. 45¢.

Wine Making (with a note on vinegar)

_by Philip Wagner and J. R. McGrew_[15]

Grapes are the world's leading fruit crop and the eighth most important food crop in the world, exceeded only by the principal cereals and starchy tubers. Though substantial quantities are used for fresh fruit, raisins, juice and preserves, most of the world's annual production of about 60 million metric tons is used for dry (non-sweet) wine.

Wine is of great antiquity, as every Bible reader knows, and a traditional and important element in the daily fare of millions. Used in moderation, it is wholesome and nourishing, and gives zest to the simplest diet. It is a source of a broad range of essential minerals, some vitamins, and easily assimilated calories provided by its moderate alcoholic content.

In its beginnings, winemaking was as much a domestic art as breadmaking and cheesemaking. It still is, wherever grapes are grown in substantial quantity. Though much wine is now produced industrially, many of the world's most famous wines are still made on what amounts to a family scale, the grapegrower being the winemaker as well.

Production of good dry table wine for family use is not difficult, provided certain essential rules are observed.

_The right grapes._ Quality of a wine depends first of all on the grapes it is made from. As is true of other fruits, there are hundreds of grape varieties. They fall in three main groups.

First, there are the classic _vinifera_ wine grapes of Europe. These also dominate the vineyards of California, with its essentially Mediterranean climate. But several centuries of trial have shown that they are not at home in most other parts of the United States.

Second, there are the traditional American sorts such as Concord, Catawba, Delaware, and Niagara, which are descendants of our wild grapes and much grown where the _vinifera_ fail. They have pronounced aromas and flavors, often called foxy, which, though relished in the fresh state by many, reduce their value for wine.

Third, there are the French or French-American hybrids, introduced in recent years and now superseding the traditional American sorts for winemaking. The object in breeding these was to combine fruit resembling the European wine grapes with vines having the winter hardiness and disease resistance of the American parent. They may be grown for winemaking where the pure European wine grapes will not succeed.

_What wine is._ Simply described, wine is the product of the fermentation of sound, ripe grapes. If a quantity of grapes is crushed into an open half-barrel or other suitable vessel, and covered, the phenomenon of fermentation will be noticeable within a day or two, depending on the ambient temperature. It is initiated by the yeasts naturally present on the grapes, which begin to multiply prodigiously once the grapes are crushed.

Fermentation continues for three to ten days, throwing off gas and a vinous odor. In the process, the sugar of the grapes is reduced to approximately half alcohol and half carbon dioxide gas, which escapes. Fermentation subsides when all the sugar has been used up. The murky liquid is then drained and pressed from the solid matter and allowed to settle and clear in a closed container.

The resulting liquid is wine--not very good wine if the constituents of the grapes were not in balance, and readily spoiled, but wine nevertheless.

Beneath the apparent simplicity, the evolution of grapes into wine is a series of complex biochemical reactions. Thus winemaking can be as simple or as complex as you wish to make it. The more you understand and control the process, the better the wine. The following instructions cover only the essentials of sound home winemaking.

Under Federal law the head of a household may make up to 200 gallons of wine a year for family use, but is first required to notify the Treasury Department's Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms on Form 1541.

Making Red Wine

The grape constituents which matter most to the winemaker are (a) sugar content of the juice, and (b) tartness or "total acidity" of the juice.

Sugar content is important because the amount of sugar determines alcoholic content of the finished wine. A sound table wine contains between 10% and 12½% alcohol. The working rule is that 2% sugar yields 1% of alcohol. Example: a sugar content of 22% yields a wine of approximately 11% alcohol.

California grapes normally contain sufficient sugar. Grapes grown elsewhere are often somewhat deficient, and the difference must be made up by adding the appropriate amount of ordinary granulated sugar which promptly converts to grape sugar on contact with the juice.

Sugar Correction Table

What the For wine of 10% by For wine of 12% by
saccharometer shows volume, add volume, add
Ounces of sugar per gallon

10 11.8 16.2
11 10.1 14.8
12 8.9 13.3
13 7.4 11.9
14 5.9 10.4
15 4.6 8.9
16 3.0 7.5
17 1.5 6.0
18 4.3
19 2.9
20 1.4

_Note_: The result is not precise, yield of alcohol varying under the
conditions of fermentation.--

Adapted from _Grapes Into Wine_ by Philip M. Wagner.

In using non-California grapes, you need to test the sugar content in advance. That is done by a simple little instrument called a saccharometer, obtainable at any winemakers' shop. This is floated in a sample of the juice, and a direct reading of sugar content is taken from the scale. The correct amount of sugar to add, in ounces per gallon of juice, is then determined by reference to the sugar table.

If _total acidity_, or tartness, is too high and not corrected, the resulting wine will be too tart to be agreeable. Again, California grapes are usually within a satisfactory range of total acidity. Grapes grown elsewhere are often too tart, and acidity of the juice should be reduced.

In commercial winemaking this is done with precision.

The home winemaker rarely makes the chemical test for total acidity but uses a rule of thumb. He corrects the assumed excess of acidity with a sugar solution consisting of 2 pounds of sugar to 1 gallon of water--adding 1 gallon of the sugar solution for every estimated 4 gallons of juice. This sugar solution is in addition to the sugar required to adjust sugar content of the juice itself.

In estimating the quantity of juice, another practical rule is that 1 full bushel of grapes will yield approximately 4 gallons. The winemaker therefore corrects with 1 gallon of sugar solution for each full bushel of crushed grapes.

The pigment of grapes is lodged almost entirely in the skins. It is during fermentation "on the skins" that the pigment is extracted and gives red wine its color.

_How to proceed._ Crush the grapes directly into your fermenter (a clean open barrel, plastic tub or large crock, never metal). Small hand crushers are available, but the grapes may be crushed as effectively by foot--wearing a clean rubber boot. Then remove a portion of the stems, which may otherwise give too much astringency to the wine.

Low-acid California grapes are quite vulnerable to bacterial spoilage during fermentation. To prevent spoilage and assure clean fermentation, dissolve a bit of potassium metabisulfite (known as "meta" and available at all winemakers' shops) and mix it into the crushed mass. Use ¼ ounce (1/3 of a teaspoonful) per 100 pounds of grapes.

Also use a yeast "starter". This comes as a 5 gram envelope of dehydrated wine yeast, also obtainable at winemakers' shops. To prepare the starter, empty the granules of yeast into a shallow cup and add a few ounces of warm water. When all the water is taken up, bring it to the consistency of cream by adding a bit more water. Let stand for an hour, then mix it into the crushed grapes.

After the meta and yeast are added, cover the fermenter with cloth or plastic sheeting to keep out dust and fruit flies, and wait for fermentation.

If non-California grapes are used, test and make the proper correction for sugar content. Then correct the total acidity by adding sugar solution as described earlier. In using non-California grapes, it is desirable, but not necessary at this point, to add a dose of meta. A yeast starter is advisable.

As fermentation begins, the solid matter of the grapes will rise to form a "cap". Push this down and mix with the juice twice a day during fermentation, always replacing the cover.

When fermentation begins to subside and the juice has lost most of its sweetness, it is time to separate the turbid, yeasty and rough-tasting new wine from the solid matter. For this purpose a press is necessary, preferably a small basket press though substitutes can be devised.

Be ready with clean storage containers for the new wine, several plastic buckets, and a plastic funnel. The best storage containers for home winemaking are 5-gallon glass bottles or small fiberglass tanks.

Beware of small casks and barrels for several reasons. They are usually leaky. They are sources of infection and off-odors that spoil more homemade wine than any other one thing. And there is frequently not enough new wine to fill and keep them full. Wine containers must be kept full; otherwise the wine quickly spoils. Using glass containers, you can see what you are doing.

With the equipment assembled, simply bail the mixture of juice and solid matter into the press basket. The press basket serves as a drain, most of the new wine gushing into the waiting buckets and being poured from them into the containers. When the mass has yielded all its "free run", press the remainder for what it still contains.

Fill the containers _full_, right into the neck. Since fermentation will continue for awhile longer, use a stopper with a fermentation "bubbler" which lets the gas out but does not let air in. When the bubbler stops bubbling and there are no further signs of fermentation, replace it with a rubber stopper or a cork wrapped in waxed paper.

Store the wine for several weeks at a temperature of around 60° F. Suspended matter in the wine will begin to settle, and at this temperature certain desirable reactions continue to take place in the wine itself.

At the end of this period, siphon the wine from its sediment, with a plastic or rubber tube, into clean containers. At the same time dissolve and add a bit of the meta already referred to at the rate of ¼ level teaspoon per 5 gallons of wine. This will protect against off odors and spoilage but does not otherwise affect the wine.

Clarifying

Next, transfer the containers to a place where the wine will be thoroughly chilled, even down to freezing. This precipitates more suspended matter and unwanted ingredients, and encourages clarification.

Assuming that the wine was made in early fall, hold it in cool storage until after the first of the year. By then it should have "fallen bright" and be stable. To test its clarity, hold a lighted match behind the bottle.

The wine is then siphoned once again from its sediment, and another dose of meta added at the same rate of ¼ teaspoon per 5 gallons.