Chapter 5: Exploration of North Island of New Zealand (3)

Saturday, 25th. P.M., had fresh Gales at South-West, and Squally weather. We kept standing along Shore to the North-West, having the Main land on the one side and Islands on the other; our Soundings were from 26 to 12 fathoms. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. we Anchor'd in a Bay in 14 fathoms, sandy bottom. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than we caught between 90 and 100 Bream (a fish so called), this occasioned my giving this place the Name of Bream Bay.* (* Whangarei Bay.) The 2 points which forms this Bay lie North and South 5 Leagues from each other. The Bay is every where pretty broad and between 3 and 4 Leagues deep; at the bottom of it their appears to be a fresh water River.* (* Whangarei River. The district is very fertile. Coal mines are in the vicinity, and coal is exported.) The North head of the Bay, called Bream head, is high land and remarkable on account of several peaked rocks ranged in order upon the top of it; it lies in the Latitude 35 degrees 46 minutes South and North 41 degrees West, distant 17 1/2 Leagues from Cape Colvill. This Bay may likewise be known by some Small Islands lying before it called the Hen and Chickens, one of which is pretty high and terminates at Top in 2 peaks. The land between Point Rodney and Bream Head, which is 10 Leagues, is low and wooded in Turfs, and between the Sea and the firm land are white sand banks. We saw no inhabitants but saw fires in the Night, a proof that the Country is not uninhabited. At daylight A.M. we left the Bay and directed our Course along shore to the northward, having a Gentle breeze at South by West and Clear weather. A little after sunrise found the Variation to be 12 degrees 42 minutes Easterly. At Noon, our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 36 minutes South; Bream head bore South distant 10 Miles; some small Islands (Poor Knights) at North-East by North distant 3 Leagues, and the Northermost land in sight bore North-North-West, being at this Time 2 miles from the Shore, and in this Situation had 26 fathoms; the land here about is rather low and pretty well cover'd with wood and seems not ill inhabited.

[Off Cape Brett, North Island, New Zealand.]

Sunday, 26th. P.M., Gentle breezes between the East-North-East and North, kept ranging along shore to the Northward. At the distance of 4 or 5 Miles off saw several Villages and some Cultivated lands; towards evening several Canoes came off to us, and some of the Natives ventur'd on board; to 2, who appear'd to be Chiefs, I gave presents. After these were gone out of the Ship, the others became so Troublesome that in order to get rid of them we were at the expence of 2 or 3 Musquet Balls, and one 4 pound Shott, but as no harm was intended them, none they received, unless they hapned to over heat themselves in pulling on shore. In the Night had variable light Airs, but towards morning had a light breeze at South, and afterward at South-East; with this we proceeded slowly to the Northward. At 6 a.m. several Canoes came off from the place where they landed last night, and between this and noon many more came from other parts. Had at one time a good many of the people on board, and about 170 alongside; their behaviour was Tolerable friendly, but we could not prevail upon them to Traffic with us. At noon, the Mainland Extending from South by East to North-West by West; a remarkable point of land bore West, distant 4 or 5 miles. Latitude Observed 35 degrees 11 minutes South.

Monday, 27th. P.M., Gentle breezes Easterly, and Clear weather. At 3 passed the point of land afore-mentioned, which I have named Cape Brett in honour of Sir Piercy.* (* Rear Admiral Sir Piercey Brett was one of the Lords of the Admiralty when the Endeavour sailed.) The land of this Cape is considerable higher than any part of the Adjacent Coast. At the very point of the Cape is a high round Hillock, and North-East by North, near one Mile from this is a small high Island or Rock with a hole pierced thro' it like the Arch of a Bridge, and this was one reason why I gave the Cape the above name, because Piercy seem'd very proper for that of the Island. This Cape, or at least some part of it, is called by the Natives Motugogogo; Latitude 35 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds South, Longitude 185 degrees 25 minutes West. On the West side of Cape Brett is a large and pretty deep Bay* (* The Bay of Islands.) lying in South-West by West, in which there appear'd to be several small Islands. The point that forms the North-West entrance I have named Point Pocock; it lies West 1/4 North, 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Brett. On the South-West side of this Bay we saw several Villages situated both on Islands and on the Main land, from whence came off to us several large Canoes full of People, but, like those that had been alongside before, would not Enter into a friendly Traffick with us, but would Cheat whenever they had an opportunity. The people in these Canoes made a very good appearance, being all stout well-made men, having their Hair--which was black--comb'd up and tied upon the Crown of their heads, and there stuck with white feathers; in each of the Canoes were 2 or 3 Chiefs, and the Habits of these were rather superior to any we had yet seen. The Cloth they wore was of the best sort, and cover'd on the outside with Dog Skins put on in such a manner as to look Agreeable enough to the Eye. Few of these people were Tattow'd or marked in the face, like those we have seen farther to the South, but several had their Backsides Tattow'd much in the same manner as the inhabitants of the Islands within the Tropics. In the Course of this day, that is this afternoon and Yesterday forenoon, we reckoned that we had not less than 400 or 500 of the Natives alongside and on board the ship, and in that time did not range above 6 or 8 Leagues of the Sea Coast, a strong proof that this part of the Country must be well inhabited. In the Evening, the Wind came to the Westward of North, and we Tack'd and stood off North-East until 11 o'Clock, when the wind coming more favourable we stood again to the Westward. At 8 a.m we were within a Mile of Groups of Islands lying close under the Mainland and North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 22 Miles from Cape Brett. Here we lay for near 2 Hours, having little or no wind. During this time several Canoes came off to the Ship, and 2 or 3 of them sold us some fish--Cavallys as they are called--which occasioned my giving the Islands the same name. After this some others began to Pelt us with Stones, and would not desist at the firing of 2 Musquet Balls thro' one of their Boats; at last I was obliged to pepper 2 or 3 fellows with small Shott, after which they retir'd, and the wind coming at North-West we stood off to Sea. At Noon, Cavally Islands bore South-West by South, distant 4 Miles; Cape Brett South-East, distant 7 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight, making like Islands, bore West by North; Latitude in per Observation 34 degrees 55 minutes South.

Tuesday, 28th. A Fresh breeze from the Westward all this day, which being right in our teeth, we kept beating to windward with all the sail we could Crowd, but instead of Gaining we lost ground. A.M., being close in with the land to the Westward of the Bay, which lies on this side of Cape Brett, we saw at some distance inland 2 pretty large Villages Pallisaded in the same manner as others we have seen. At noon, Cape Brett South-East by East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues; Latitude observed 35 degrees 0 minutes South.

[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand.]

Wednesday, 29th. Fresh Gales at North-West and West-North-West, kept plying to Windward until 7 A.M., and finding that we lost ground every board we made, I thought I could not do better than to bear up for the Bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Brett, it being at this Time not above 2 Leagues to Leeward of us, for by putting in there we should gain some knowledge of it, on the Contrary, by Keeping the Sea with a Contrary wind, we were sure of meeting with nothing new. These reasons induced me to bear away for the Bay,* (* The Bay of Islands.) and at 11 o'Clock we Anchor'd under the South-West side of one of the many Islands* (* Motu Arohia.) that line the South-East side of it, in 4 1/2 fathoms; but as we fell into this shoald water all at once, we Anchor'd sooner than was intended, and sent the Master with 2 Boats to sound, who found that we had got upon a Bank that spitted off from the North-West end of the Island, and that on the outside of it was 8 and 10 fathoms Water.

Thursday, 30th. P.M., had the winds Westerly, with some very heavy Showers of Rain. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than between 300 and 400 of the Natives Assembled in their Canoes about the Ship; some few were admitted on board, and to one of the Chiefs I gave a piece of Broad Cloth and distributed a few Nails, etc., among some others of them. Many of these People had been off to the Ship when we were at Sea, and seem'd to be very sencible of the use of Fire Arms, and in the Trade we had with them they behaved Tolerable well, but continued so not long, before some of them wanted to take away the Buoy,* (* The buoy on the anchor.) and would not desist at the firing of several Musquets until one of them was hurt by small Shott, after which they withdrew a small distance from the Ship, and this was thought a good opportunity to try what Effect a Great Gun would have, as they paid so little respect to a Musquet, and accordingly one was fir'd over their Heads. This, I believe, would have sent them quite off, if it had not been for Tupia, who soon prevail'd on them to return to the Ship, when their behaviour was such as gave us no room to suspect that they meant to give us any farther Trouble.

After the Ship was moved into Deeper Water I went with the Pinnace and Yawl, mann'd and Arm'd, and landed upon the Island, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We had scarce landed before all the Canoes left the Ship and landed at different parts of the Island, and before we could well look about us we were surrounded by 2 or 300 People, and, notwithstanding that they were all Arm'd, they came upon us in such a confused, straggling manner that we hardly suspected that they meant us any harm; but in this we were very soon undeceived, for upon our Endeavouring to draw a line on the sand between us and them they set up the War dance, and immediately some of them attempted to seize the 2 Boats. Being disappointed in this, they next attempted to break in upon us, upon which I fir'd a Musquet loaded with small Shott at one of the Forwardest of them, and Mr. Banks and 2 of the Men fir'd immediately after. This made them retire back a little, but in less than a minute one of the Chiefs rallied them again. Dr. Solander, seeing this, gave him a peppering with small Shott, which sent him off and made them retire a Second time. They attempted to rally several times after, and only seem'd to want some one of resolution to head them; but they were at last intirely dispers'd by the Ship firing a few shott over their Heads and a Musquet now and then from us. In this Skirmish only one or 2 of them was Hurt with small Shott, for I avoided killing any one of them as much as Possible, and for that reason withheld our people from firing. We had observed that some had hid themselves in a Cave in one of the Rocks, and sometime after the whole was over we went Towards them. The Chief who I have mentioned to have been on board the Ship hapned to be one of these; he, his wife, and another came out to meet us, but the rest made off. Those 3 people came and sat down by us, and we gave them of such things as we had about us. After this we went to another part of the Island, where some of the inhabitants came to us, and were as meek as lambs. Having taken a View of the Bay from the Island and Loaded both Boats with Sellery, which we found here in great plenty, we return'd on board, and at 4 A.M. hove up the Anchor in order to put to Sea, with a light breeze at East, but it soon falling Calm, obliged us to come too again, and about 8 or 9 o'Clock, seeing no probability of our getting to Sea, I sent the Master to Sound the Harbour. But before this I order'd Matthew Cox, Henry Stevens, and Emanl Parreyra to be punished with a dozen lashes each for leaving their duty when ashore last night, and digging up Potatoes out of one of the Plantations.* (* Cook's care to deal fairly with natives is evinced by this punishment.) The first of the 3 I remitted back to Confinement because he insisted that there was no harm in what he had done. All this Forenoon had abundance of the Natives about the Ship and some few on board. We Trafficked with them for a few Trifles, in which they dealt very fair and friendly.

[December 1769.]

Friday, 1st December. Winds at North-North-West a Gentle breeze. At 3 p.m., the Boats having return'd from sounding, I went with them over to the South side of the Harbour, and landed upon the Main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing new or remarkable. The place where we landed was in a small sandy Cove, where there are 2 small Streams of Fresh Water and Plenty of Wood for fuel. Here were likewise several little Plantations planted with Potatoes and Yams. The Soil and Natural produce of the Country was much the same as what we have hitherto met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship. In the evening we had Some very heavy showers of rain, and this brought us on board sooner than we intended. A.M., the wind being still contrary, I sent some people ashore upon the Island to cut Grass for our Sheep, in the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance, and in the same friendly manner did those behave that were alongside the Ship. Punished Matthew Cox with 6 Lashes, and then dismiss'd him.

Saturday, 2nd. Winds at North-West and North. P.M. a Gentle breeze; the remainder Strong Gales and hazey, with much rain towards Noon. At 8 a.m. hoisted out the Long boat, and sent her ashore for water, and the Pinnace to haul the Sean; but they had not got well ashore before it began to blow and rain very hard. This occasioned them to return on board with one Turn of water and but a very few fish.

Sunday, 3rd. P.M., Strong Gales at North, with rain; the remainder Gentle breezes from the Westward. A.M., sent 2 Boats to sound the Harbour and one to haul the Sean, the latter of which met with very little Success.

Monday, 4th. Gentle breezes at North-West, West-North-West, and West; very fair weather. P.M., Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself landed upon one of the Islands* (* Probably Motu-Rua.) on the North side of the one the Ship lays under. This Island is about 3 Miles in Circuit, and hath upon it 40 or 50 Acres of Land cultivated and planted with roots; here are likewise several small streams of Excellent water. This Island, as well as most others in this Bay, seem to be well inhabited. At 4 a.m. sent the Long boat to the above Island for water and some hands to cut Grass, and at 9, I went with the Pinnace and Yawl over upon the Main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. In our way we passed by a point of land on which stood a Hippa or Fortified Village, the inhabitants of which waved us to come ashore, and accordingly we landed, which we had no sooner done than the People came about us with Quantitys of various sorts of fish, which we purchased of them for meer Trifles. After this they shew'd us the Village, which was a neat Compact place, and its situation well Choose. There were 2 or 3 more near unto this, but these we did not go to. We afterwards went a little way into the Country, and had some of the Natives along with us; we met with a good deal of Cultivated land, planted mostly with sweet potatoes. The face of the Country appear'd Green and pleasant, and the soil seem'd to be pretty rich and proper for Cultivation. The land is every where about this Bay of a moderate height, but full of small Hills and Vallies, and not much incumbered with wood. We met with about 1/2 a dozen Cloth plants, being the same as the inhabitants of the Islands lying within the Tropics make their finest Cloth on. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the Cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of Ornaments at their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the use of this sort of Cloth doth in some measure account for the extraordinary fondness they have shew'd for it above every other thing we had to give them. Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so much English Cloth of any sort whatever; but, as we have been at few places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it's more than probable that they will soon learn to set a value upon it, and likewise upon Iron, a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the least value upon; but was European commodities in ever such Esteem among them, they have no one thing of Equal value to give in return, at least that we have seen.

Tuesday, 5th. P.M., had the winds at South-West and West-South-West, a fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock we return'd on board, and after dinner Visited another part of the Bay, but met with nothing new. By the evening all our Empty Casks were fill'd with water, and had at the same time got on board a large quantity of Sellery, which is found here in great Plenty. This I still caused to be boild every morning with Oatmeal and Portable Soup for the Ship's Company's breakfast. At 4 a.m. weigh'd with a light breeze at South-East, but had Variable light Airs and sometimes Calm until near Noon, when a Gentle breeze sprung up at North. At this time we had not got out of the Bay; our Latitude by Observation was 35 degrees 9 minutes South. This Bay I have before observed, lies on the West side of Cape Brett: I have named it the Bay of Islands,* (* The principal settlement in the Bay of Islands is Russell. A little higher up the Waikare River, at Opua, coal obtained from mines in the vicinity is shipped. At Russell, then called Kororarika, the first settlement of missionaries was formed in 1814 by Samuel Marsden. Here also the Government of the Island was first established in 1840, but was soon removed to Auckland.) on account of the Great Number which line its shores, and these help to form Several safe and Commodious Harbours, wherein is room and Depth of Water sufficient for any number of Shipping. The one we lay in is on the South-West side of South-Westermost Island, that lies on the South-East side of the Bay. I have made no accurate Survey of this Bay; the time it would have requir'd to have done this discouraged me from attempting it; besides, I thought it quite Sufficient to be able to Affirm with Certainty that it affords a good Anchorage and every kind of refreshment for Shipping, but as this was not the Season for roots, we got only fish. Some few we Caught ourselves with hook and line and in the Sean, but by far the greatest part we purchased of the Natives, and these of Various sorts, such as Sharks, Stingrays, Breams, Mullet, Mackerel, and several other sorts. Their way of Catching them is the same as ours, viz., with Hook and line and Seans; of the last they have some prodidgious large made all of a Strong Kind of Grass. The Mackerel are in every respect the same as those we have in England, only some are larger than any I ever saw in any other Part of the World; although this is the Season for this fish, we have never been able to Catch one with hook and line. The inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we have yet been in, and seem to live in friendship one with another, although it doth not at all appear that they are united under one head.* (* This district was found to be very populous when the missionaries came.) They inhabited both the Islands and the Main, and have a Number of Hippas, or Strong Holds, and these are all built in such places as nature hath in a great part fortified, and what she hath left undone the people themselves have finished. It is high water in this Bay at full and change of the Moon about 8 o'clock, and the tide at these times rises and falls upon a perpendicular 6 or 8 feet. It appears, from the few Observations I have been able to make of the Tides on the Sea-Coast, that the flood comes from the Southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that there is a current which comes from the Westward and sets along shore to the South-East or South-South-East, as the Land lays.

[Sail from Bay of Islands, New Zealand.]

Wednesday, 6th. P.M., had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which we kept turning out of the Bay, but gain'd little or nothing; in the evening it fell little wind; at 10 o'Clock it was Calm. At this time the tide or Current seting the Ship near one of the Islands, where we were very near being ashore; but, by the help of our Boats and a light Air from the Southward, we got clear. About an hour after, when we thought ourselves out of all danger, the Ship struck upon a Sunken rock* (* Called Whale Rock, in Endeavour's chart.) and went immediately clear without receiving any perceptible damage. Just before the man in the Chains had 17 fathoms Water, and immediately after she struck 5 fathoms, but very soon Deepned to 20. This rock lies half-a-mile West-North-West from the Northermost or outermost Island that lies on the South-East side of the Bay. Had light Airs from the Land and sometimes Calm until 9 o'Clock a.m.; at this time we had got out of the Bay, and a breeze springing up at North-North-West, we stood out to Sea. At noon Cape Brett bore South-South-East 1/2 South, distant 10 miles. Latitude observed, 34 degrees 59 minutes South.

Thursday, 7th. P.M., a fresh breeze from the Westward and Clear weather. At 3 o'Clock took several Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean result of them gives 185 degrees 36 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich. What winds we have had this 24 hours hath been against us, so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the Westward.

Friday, 8th. Forepart of P.M. had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which we stood in shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands. They are a Group of Small Islands lying close under the Main land, and 7 Leagues North 60 West from Cape Brett, and 3 1/2 Leagues from Point Rodney. From these Islands the Main land trends West by North. We were here Visited by several Canoes, and the People in them seem'd desirous of Trafficking with us, but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at South, they could not keep up with the Ship, and I would not wait for them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer'd to South-West and West, a light breeze. Found the Variation in the Evening to be 12 degrees 42 minutes East, and in the Morning 13 degrees East. Keept standing to the West-North-West and North-West until 10 A.M., at which time we tacked and stood in for the Shore, being about 5 Leagues off, and in this situation had 118 fathoms Water. At Noon Cape Brett bore South-East, distant 13 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore West by South, being at this time about 4 Leagues from Land. Latitude in per Observation, 34 degrees 42 minutes South.

Saturday, 9th. P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West, which in the Evening came to South and continued so all night; this by daylight brought us pretty well in with the land, 7 Leagues to the Westward of the Cavalle Isles, and where lies a deep Bay running in South-West by West and West-South-West, the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the land appear'd to be low and level, the 2 points which form the Entrance lie West-North-West and East-South-East 5 Miles from each other. This Bay I have named Doubtless Bay;* (* There is a small settlement called Mangonui in Doubtless Bay.) the wind not permitting us to look into this Bay we steer'd for the Westermost land we had in sight, which bore from us West-North-West, distant 3 Leagues, but before we got the length of it it fell calm, and continued so until 10 o'Clock, when a breeze sprung up at West-North-West, and with it we stood off North. While we lay becalm'd, several of the Natives came off to the Ship in 5 Canoes, but were fearful of venturing alongside. After these were gone, 6 more came off; these last came boldly alongside, and sold us fish of different sorts sufficient to give all hands a little.

At noon, the Cavalle Islands bore South-East by East, distant 8 Leagues, and the Entrance of Doubtless Bay South by West distant 3 Leagues, and the North-West Extremity of the Land in sight, which we judge to be the Main, bore North-West by West. Our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 44 minutes South.

[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

Sunday, 10th. Had the winds from the Western board all this day, a Gentle breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 12 degrees 41 minutes East per Azimuth and 12 degrees 40 minutes by the Amplitude; in the morning we stood Close in with the Land, 7 Leagues to the westward of Doubtless Bay. Here the shore forms another large open Bay; the Bottom of this and Doubtless Bay cannot be far from each other, being to all appearance only seperated by a low neck of land from which juts out a Peninsula or head land, which I have named Knockle Point. West by South 6 Leagues from this point and about the Middle of the Bay is a high Mountain or Hill standing upon a desart shore, on which account we called it Mount Camel; Latitude 34 degrees 51 minutes; Longitude 186 degrees 50 minutes. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathoms Water, the bottom good for Anchorage, but their seems to be nothing that can induce Shipping to put into it for no Country upon Earth can look more barren than the land about this bay doth. It is in general low, except the Mountain just Mentioned, and the Soil to all appearance nothing but white sand thrown up in low irregular hills, lying in Narrow ridges parrallel with the shore; this occasioned me to name it Sandy Bay.* (* Rangaunu Bay.) The first ridge behind the Sea beach is partly cover'd with Shrubs, Plants, etc., but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it, which induced me to think that it lies open to the Western Sea.* (* This is the fact.) As barren as this land appears it is not without inhabitants. We saw a Village on this Side of Mount Camel and another on the Eastern side of the Bay, besides 5 Canoes that were pulling off to the Ship, but did not come up with us. At 9 a.m. we tacked and stood to the Northward at Noon. Latitude in Per observation 34 degrees 38 minutes. The Cavalle Isles bore South-East by East, distant 13 Leagues; the Northern Extremity of the land in sight making like an Island bore North-West 1/4 North, distant 9 Leagues, and Mount Camel bore South-West by South, distant 6 Leagues. Tacked and stood in Shore.

Monday, 11th. Gentle breezes at North. M.d and pleasant weather. Keept plying all the day, but got very little to Windward; at Noon was in the Latitude of 34 degrees 32 minutes South, the Northermost inland set yesterday at noon bore North-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.

Tuesday, 12th. Moderate breezes of Wind between the North-West and North and Smooth Water, yet we gain'd very little in plying to Windward; at Noon Mount Camel bore South by West 1/4, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 34 minutes South.

Wednesday, 13th. Fore part of P.M., Moderate breezes at North by West and fair weather; stood in shore until 5 O'Clock, at which time we tack'd and stood to the North-East being 2 Leagues to the Northward of Mount Camel and 1 1/2 Mile from shore, and this situation had 22 fathoms water. At 10 it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double Reeft Top sails; at 12 Tack'd and Stood to the Westward until 7 A.M. when we Tack'd and stood again to North-East, being at this time about a Mile to windward of the place where we tack'd last night. Soon after we Tack'd it came on to blow very hard at North-North-West with heavy squalls attended with rain, this brought us under our Courses and Split the Main Top sail in such a manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the Yard. At 10 it fell more moderate and we set the Top sails double reef'd. At Noon had strong Gales and hazey weather, Tack'd and stood to the Westward. No land in sight for the first time since we have been upon the Coast.

Thursday, 14th. Strong Gales at West and West-South-West with Squalls at times attended with Rain. At 1/2 past 3 P.M. Tack'd and stood to the Northward. A small Island lying off Knockle point, bore South 1/2 West, distant half a League. In the evening brought the Ship under her Courses, having first Split the Fore and Mizen Top sails; at Midnight wore and Stood to the Southward until 5 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9 Leagues; by this we found we had fell very much to Leeward since Yesterday morning. Set the Top sails close Reeft and the people to dry and repair the Damaged Sails. At Noon a strong Gale and clear weather, Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 6 minutes South. Saw land bearing South-West being the same North-Westermost land we have seen before, and which I take to be the Northern Extremity of this Country, as we have now a large swell rowling in from the Westward which could not well be, was we covered by any land on that point of the Compass.* (* The Endeavour was now to the northward of the north point of New Zealand.)

[Off North Cape, New Zealand.]

Friday, 15th. Fresh Gales at South-West, and for the most part clear weather with a large Swell from the Westward. At 8 P.M. Tack'd and Stood to the South-East until 8 a.m., and then Tack'd and stood to the Westward with as much sail as the Ship could bear. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 183 degrees 45 minutes West, and by Estimation about 15 Leagues from the Land notwithstanding we used our utmost Endeavours to keep in with it.

Saturday, 16th. Fresh breezes between the South by West and South-West. Clear weather with a Swell from the Westward. At 6 A.M. saw the land from the Mast Head bearing South-South-West. Got Top Gallant Yards up and set the Sail, unbent the Foresail to repair and brought another to the Yard. At Noon, Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 43 minutes South; Course made since Yesterday Noon North 60 degrees West; distance 56 Miles. The Land in sight bearing South by West, distant 14 Leagues.

Sunday, 17th. A Gentle breeze between the South-West by West and West with Clear weather. In standing in Shore sounded several times and had no ground with 90 fathoms of line. At 8 a.m. Tack'd in 108 fathoms 3 or 4 miles from the Shore, being the same point of Land as we had to the North-West of us before we were blown off. At Noon it bore South-West, distant about 3 Miles. Mount Camel bore South by East, distant 11 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore South 75 degrees West; Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 20 minutes South. The people at work repairing the Sails, the most of them having been Split in the late blowing weather.

Monday, 18th. Moderate breezes at West and West-North-West and Clear weather. At 4 p.m. Tack'd and stood in shore, in doing of which we meet with a Strong rippling, and the Ship fell fast to leeward, occasioned, as we thought, by a Current setting to the Eastward. At 8 Tack'd and stood off North until 8 a.m., when we Tack'd and stood in, being about 10 Leagues from the Land. At Noon the Point of Land we were near to yesterday at noon bore South-South-West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 8 minutes South.

Tuesday, 19th. The wind still continues at West. P.M., a moderate breeze and Clear weather. At 7 Tack'd in 35 fathoms; the point of land before mentioned bore North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Miles, having not gained one inch to windward this last 24 hours, which is a great proof that there must be a Current setting to the Eastward.* (* This strong easterly current is now well known.) The Point of Land above mentioned I have called North Cape, judging it to be the Northermost Extremity of this Country. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes South and Longitude 186 degrees 55 minutes West from Greenwich,* (* This position is very correct.) and North 63 degrees West 31 Leagues from Cape Brett; it forms the North Point of Sandy Bay, and is a peninsula juting out North-East about 2 Miles, and Terminates in a Bluff head which is flatt at Top. The Isthmus which joins this head to the Mainland is very low, on which account the land off the Cape from several situations makes like an Island. It appears still more remarkable when to the Southward of it by the appearance of a high round Island at the South-East Point of the Cape; but this is likewise a deception, being a round hill join'd to the Cape by a low, narrow neck of Land; on the South-East side of the Cape there appears to be anchorage, and where ships must be covered from South-East and North-West winds. We saw a Hippa or Village upon the Cape and some few inhabitants. In the night had some Squalls attended with rain, which obliged us to take another Reef in our Topsails. At 8 a.m. Tack'd and stood in Shore, and being moderate loosed a Reef out of each Topsail and set the small sails. At noon we were in the Latitude of 34 degrees 2 minutes South, and being hazey over the land we did not see it.

Wednesday, 20th. P.M., Fresh breezes at West by North, and Clear weather. At 6 Tack'd and stood off, North Cape bore South, distant 3 or 4 Miles. At 4 a.m. Tack'd and stood in, Wind at West-North-West a fresh breeze, but at 9 it increased to a Strong Gale with heavy squalls attended with Thunder and Rain, which brought us under our Courses. At 11 it Cleared up and the Wind came to West-South-West; we set the Topsails, double Reef'd and Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon, a Stiff Gale and Clear weather; Latitude observed 34 degrees 14 minutes South. North Cape South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues.

Thursday, 21st. Fresh breezes at South-West and clear weather with a heavy swell first from the West, then from the South-West. At 8 a.m. loosed the 2nd Reef out of the Topsails; at noon clear weather, no land in sight. The North Cape bore South 25 degrees East, distant 24 Leagues. Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South.

Friday, 22nd. A moderate Gale at South by West and South-South-West and Cloudy weather. At 8 a.m. got up Top Gallant Yards and set the sails. At Noon Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 2 minutes South. Course and distant since Yesterday at Noon is North 69 1/2 West, 37 Miles. The North Cape bore South 39 degrees East, distant 38 Leagues.

Saturday, 23rd. Gentle breezes between the South by West and South-West, and Clear settled weather, with a swell from the South-West. Course and distance sailed since Yesterday at Noon is South 60 degrees East, 30 Miles. Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South. North Cape South 36 minutes East, distant 27 Leagues.

Sunday, 24th. Light Airs next to a Calm all this 24 Hours. At 7 p.m. saw the land from the Mast head bearing South 1/2 East; at 11 a.m. saw it again bearing South-South-East, distant 8 Leagues. At Noon Latitude observed 33 degrees 48 minutes South.

Monday, 25th. A Gentle breeze at South-East, the weather a little hazey. P.M., stood to the South-West. At 4 the land above mentioned bore South-East by South, distant 4 Leagues. It proves to be a small Island, which we take to be the 3 Kings discover'd by Tasman; there are several Smaller Islands or Rocks lying off the South-West end and one at the North-East end. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 187 degrees 45 minutes West and West 14 degrees North, 14 or 15 Leagues from the North Cape. At Midnight Tack'd and stood to the North-East until 6 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the Southward. At Noon the Island of the 3 Kings bore East 8 degrees North, distant 5 or 6 Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 12 minutes South, Longitude in 188 degrees 5 minutes West; variation per Azimuth taken this morning 11 degrees 25 minutes East.

Tuesday, 26th. Moderate breezes, Easterly and hazey weather; standing to the Southward close upon a wind. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude 188 degrees 20 minutes West. The island of the 3 Kings North 26 degrees West, distant 22 Leagues. In this situation had no land in sight, and yet by observation we are in the Latitude of the Bay of Islands, and by my reckoning but 30 Leagues to the Westward of the North Cape, from whence it appears that the Northern part of this land must be very narrow, otherwise we must have seen some part of the West side of it.

Wednesday, 27th. Winds at East. P.M., a fresh Gale, with which we stood to the Southward until 12 at Night, then Tack'd and Stood to the Northward. At 4 a.m. the wind began to freshen, and increased in such a manner that at 9 we were obliged to bring the Ship too under her Mainsail, it blowing at this time excessive hard with heavy Squalls attended with rain, and at the same time thick hazey weather. Course made good since Yesterday at Noon South-South-West 1/2 West, distance 11 Miles. Latitude in 35 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude in 188 degrees 29 minutes West. The Island of the 3 Kings, North 27 degrees East, distant 77 Miles.

[Off North End of New Zealand.]

Thursday, 28th. The Gale continued without the least intermission until 2 a.m., when the wind fell a little and began to veer to the Southward and to the South-West where it fixed at 4, and we made Sail and steer'd East in for the Land under the Foresail and Mainsail, but was soon obliged to take in the latter as it began to blow very hard and increased in such a manner that by 8 o'Clock it was a meer Hurricane attended with rain and the Sea run prodidgious high. At this time we wore the Ship, hauld up the Topsail, and brought her too with her head to the North-West under a Reefed Mainsail, but this was scarcely done before the Main Tack gave way and we were glad to take in the Mainsail and lay too under the Mizen staysail and Ballanced Mizen, after which we reefd the Foresail and furl'd both it and the Mainsail. At Noon the Gale was a little abated, but had still heavy squalls attended with rain. Our Course made good to-day is North, a little Easterly, 29 miles; Latitude in per Account 34 degrees 50 minutes South; Longitude in 188 degrees 27 minutes West; the 3 Kings North 41 East; distant 52 Miles.

Friday, 29th. Winds at South-West and South-West by West. A very hard Gale with Squalls but mostly fair weather. At 7 p.m. wore and lay on the other Tack. At 6 a.m. loosed the Reef out of the Foresail and Set it and the Reefd Mainsail. At 11 unbent both Foresail and Mainsail to repair, and bent others and made Sail under them. At Noon Latitude observed 34 degrees 45 minutes South. Course and distance saild since yesterday East by North 29 miles.

Saturday, 30th. Winds at South-West. P.M., hard Gales with some Squalls attended with rain. A.M., more moderate and fair. At 8 p.m. wore and stood to the North-West until 5 a.m., then wore and stood to the South-East and being pretty moderate we set the Topsails close Reef'd, but the South-West Sea runs so high that the Ship goes Bodily to leeward. At 6 saw the land bearing North-East distant about 6 Leagues which we judge to be the same as Tasman calls Cape Maria Van Dieman; at Noon it bore North-North-East 1/2 East and we could see the land extend to the East and Southward as far as South-East by East. Our Latitude by observation 34 degrees 50 minutes South.

Sunday, 31st. Fresh gales at South-West and South-West by South accompanied by a large Sea from the same Quarter. At 1 p.m. Tack'd and Stood to the North-West until 8, then stood to the South-East. At this time the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by West, distant 11 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen North by East. At Midnight wore and Stood to the North-West until 4 a.m., then wore and Stood to the South-East; at Noon our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 42 minutes South. The land of Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-East by North distant about 5 Leagues.

1770.

[January 1770.]

Monday, January 1st. P.M., fresh breezes at South-West by South and Squally, the remainder moderate breezes at South-West by South and South-West clear weather. At 7 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Westward. At this time Mount Camel bore North 83 degrees East and the Northermost land or Cape Maria Van Diemen North by West, being distant from the Nearest Shore 3 Leagues; in this situation had 40 fathoms Water.

NOTE. Mount Camel doth not appear to lay little more than a Mile from the Sea on this Side* (* It is, in fact, about six miles, but the coast in front is so low that the mistake in estimation is very natural.) and about the same distance on the other, so that the land here cannot be above 2 or 3 Miles broad from Sea to Sea, which is what I computed when we were in Sandy Bay on the other side of the Coast. At 6 a.m. Tack'd and Stood to the Eastward, the Island of the 3 Kings North-West by North. At Noon Tack'd again and stood to the Westward, being in the Latitude of 34 degrees 37 minutes South; the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by North, distant 10 or 11 Leagues; and Cape Maria Van Diemen North 31 East, distant 4 1/2 Leagues; in this situation had 54 fathoms. I cannot help thinking but what it will appear a little strange that at this season of the Year we should be 3 Weeks in getting 10 Leagues to the Westward and 5 Weeks in getting 50 Leagues, for so long it is since we pass'd Cape Brett; but it will hardly be credited that in the midst of Summer and in the Latitude of 35 degrees South such a Gale of wind as we have had could have hapned which for its Strength and Continuance was such as I hardly was ever in before. Fortunately at this time we were a good distance from land, otherwise it would have proved fatal to us.* (* The north point of New Zealand is celebrated for bad weather.)

Tuesday, 2nd. Fresh breezes at South-South-West and West accompanied with a rowling Sea from the South-West. At 5 p.m. the wind Veering to the Westward we Tack'd and Stood to the Southward. At this time the North Cape bore East 3/4 North and was just open of a point that lies 3 Leagues West by South from it, being now well assured that it is the Northermost Extremity of this Country and is the East point of a Peninsula which Stretches out North-West and North-West by North 17 or 18 Leagues, and as I have before observed is for the most part low and narrow except its Extremity where the land is Tollerable high and Extends 4 or 5 Leagues every way. Cape Maria Van Diemen is the West point of the Peninsula and lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 30 minutes South; Longitude 187 degrees 18 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* This is extraordinarily accurate, seeing that the ship was never close to the Cape, and the observations were all taken in bad weather. The latitude is exact, and the longitude is only three miles in error. The persistence with which Cook clung to this point until he could resume his exploration and examination of the coast is very characteristic of the man. He would not willingly miss a mile of it, nor did he.) From this Cape the Land Trends away South-East by South and South-East to and beyond Mount Camel, and is everywhere a barren shore affording no better prospect than what ariseth from white sand Banks. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by North and Cape Maria Van Diemen North-East by East, distant 4 Leagues. At 5 a.m. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-North-East 1/2 East and Mount Camel East. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35 degrees 17 minutes and Cape Maria Van Diemen by judgment bore North distant 16 Leagues; having no land in sight, not daring to go near it as the wind blow'd fresh right on shore and a high rowling Sea from the Same Quarter, and knowing that there was no Harbour that we could put into in case we were Caught upon a lee shore.

Wednesday, 3rd. Winds at West-South-West and South-West; a fresh breeze and Squally, the remainder moderate with frequent Squalls attended with rain. In the evening shortned Sail and at Midnight Tack'd and made a Trip to the North-West until 2 a.m., then wore and stood to the Southward. At daylight made Sail and Edged away in order to make the Land; at 10 saw it bearing North-East and appeared to be high land; at Noon it extended from North to East-North-East distant, by Estimation, 8 or 10 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 2 degrees 30 minutes West, distant 33 Leagues. Our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 2 minutes South. A high rowling swell from the South-West.

[Off Kaipara Harbour, North Island, New Zealand.]

Thursday, 4th. Winds at South-West and South-West by South; mostly a fresh Gale accompanied with a rowling sea from the same Quarter. Being desirous of taking as near a View of the coast as we could with safety we keept Edging in for it until 7 o'Clock p.m., being at this time 6 Leagues from the Land. We then hauld our wind to South-East and keept on that Course close upon the wind all night, sounding several times but had no ground with 100 and 110 fathoms. At 8 o'Clock a.m. was about 5 Leagues from the Land and a place which lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 25 minutes that had the Appearance of a Bay or inlet bore East.* (* This was Kaipara Harbour, although, on a closer inspection, Cook thought he had been deceived. It is the largest harbour on this part of the coast. The town of Helensville stands on one of its arms.) In order to see more of this place we kept on our Course until 11 o'Clock when we were not above 3 Leagues from it, and then found that it was neither a Bay nor inlet, but low land bounded on each side by higher lands which caused the deception. At this time we Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon we were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the Land and in the Latitude of 36 degrees 31 minutes and Longitude 185 degrees 50 minutes West. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 25 West, distant 44 1/2 Leagues. From this I form my judgment of the direction of this Coast, which is nearly South-South-East 3/4 East and North-North-West 3/4 West, and must be nearly a Strait Shore. In about the Latitude 35 degrees 45 minutes is some high land adjoining to the Sea; to the Southward of that the land is of a moderate heigth, and wears a most desolate and inhospitable aspect. Nothing is to be seen but long sand Hills, with hardly any Green thing upon them, and the great Sea which the prevailing Westerly winds impell upon the Shore must render this a very Dangerous Coast. This I am so fully sencible of, that was we once clear of it I am determined not to come so near Again, if I can possible avoid it, unless we have a very favourable wind indeed.* (* The mingled audacity and caution of Cook's navigation off this coast must awake the admiration of every seaman.)

Friday, 5th. Fresh gales at South-West with frequent Squalls attended with rain. The South-West swell still keeping up we stood to the North-West all this day with a prest Sail in order to get an Offing. At Noon True Course made good North 38 West, distance 102 Miles. Latitude in per Observation 35 degrees 10 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 10 degrees East; distant 41 Miles.

Saturday, 6th. First part a fresh breeze at South-West by South; in the night had it at South. A.M., light Airs from the Southward next to a Calm, and Clear weather. Course made good to-day is North 76 West; distance 8 Miles; Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 8 minutes South.

Sunday, 7th. Variable light Airs and Sometimes Calm with Clear pleasant weather. At daylight saw the land which we took to be Cape Maria Van Diemen bearing North-North-East, distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Latitude in per Observation 35 degrees 0 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North, distant 11 Leagues.