Chapter 9: From Torres Strait to Batavia (2)

Thursday, 20th. We stay'd at the King's Pallace all the Afternoon, and at last were obliged to return on board without doing anything farther than a promise of having some Buffaloes in the morning; which we had now no great reason to rely on. In the morning I went on shore again, and was showed one small Buffaloe, which they asked 5 Guineas for. I offer'd 3, which the man told me he would gladly take, and sent a Message to the king to let him know what I had offer'd. The Messenger soon return'd, and let me know that I could not have it under 5 Guineas; and this I refused to give, knowing it was not worth one fifth part of the money. But this, my refusal, had like to have overset all we had before done, for soon after about 100 Men, some Arm'd with Musquets, others with Lances, came down to the Landing Place. Besides the officer that commanded this party, there came along with them a Man who spoke Portuguese, and I believe was born of Portuguese Parents. This man is here (as we afterwards Understood) as an Assistant to the Dutch Factor. He deliver'd to me the King's order, or rather those of the Dutch Factor, the purport of which was that we were to stay no longer than this day, pretending that the people would not trade with us because we wanted their provisions for nothing, etc.; whereas the Natives shew'd the greatest inclination imaginable to supply us with whatever they had, and were far more desirous of goods than money, and were, before this man came, selling us Fowls and Syrup as fast as they could bring these things down. From this and other Circumstances we were well Assured that this was all the Dutchman's doing, in order to extort from us a sum of Money to put into his own pocket. There hapned to be an old Raja at this time upon the beach, whose Interest I had secured in the Morning by presenting him with a Spy-glass; this man I now took by the hand, and presented him with an old broad sword. This effectually secured him in our Interest, for the Moment he got it he began to flourish it over the old Portuguese, and made him and the Officer commanded the party to sit down at his back side. Immediately after this trade was restored again for Fowls, etc., with more Spirit than ever; but before I could begin a Trade for Buffaloes, which was what we most wanted, I was obliged to give 10 Guineas for 2, one of which weigh'd only 160 pounds. After this I bought 7 more at a more reasonable price, one of which we lost after he was paid for. I might now have purchased as many as I pleased, for they now drove them down to the Water side by Herds; but having got as many as I well know'd what to do with, and likewise a number of Fowls, and a large quantity of Syrup, I resolved to make no longer stay.

Friday, 21st. We got under sail, and stood away to the Westward along the North side of the Island, and another smaller Island, which lies farther to the Westward, which last bore from us at Noon South-South-East, distant 2 Leagues.

[Description of Savu.]

Before we proceed any further it will be proper in this place to say something of the Island we have been last at, which is called by the Natives Savu. The Middle of it lies in about the Latitude of 10 degrees 35 minutes South, Longitude 237 degrees 30 minutes West. It may be about 8 Leagues in length from East to West, but of what breadth I know not, because I only saw the North side. There are, as I am told, 3 Bays where Ships can Anchor; the best is on the South-West side of the South-East point; the one we lay in, called Seba, lies on the North-West side of the Island. This bay is very well sheltered from the South-East Trade wind, but lays wholy open to the North-West. The Land of this Island which bounds the Sea is, in general, low, but in the Middle of the Island are Hills of a moderate height, and the whole is agreeably diversified with woods and Lawns, which afford a most pleasing prospect from the Sea. We were told that the Island is but indifferently water'd in the dry Season, especially towards the latter end of it, at which time there is no running Stream upon the whole Island, only small Springs, which are all at a distance from the Sea side. The dry seasons commences in March or April, and ends in November; the remaining 3 or 4 Months they have Westerly winds with rain, and this the time their Crops of Rice, Calivances, and Indian Corn are brought forth, which are Articles that this Island produceth.

They also breed a great Number of Cattle, viz., Buffaloes, Horses, Hogs, Sheep, and Goats. Many of the former are sent to Concordia, where they are kill'd and salted, in order to be sent to the more Northern Islands, which are under the Dominion of the Dutch. Sheep and Goats' flesh is dried upon this Island, packed up in Bales, and sent to Concordia for the same purpose. The Dutch resident, from whom we had this information, told us that the Dutch at Concordia had lately behaved so ill to the Natives of Timor that they were obliged to have recourse to this Island and others Adjacent for provisions for their own subsistance, and likewise Troops (Natives of this Island) to assist the Dutch against those of Timor. Besides the above productions, here are an Emmence Number of Palm Trees, from which is extracted the Palm Wine, as it is called, a very sweet, agreeable, cooling Liquor. What they do not immediately use they boil down and make Syrup or Sugar of, which they keep in Earthen Jarrs. Here are likewise Cocoa Nutts, Tamerind Trees, Limes etc., but in no great plenty; Indico, Cotton, and Cinnamon, sufficient to serve the Natives; these last Articles, we were told, the Dutch discourage the growth of.

The Island is divided into 5 Kingdoms, which have lived in Peace and Amity with each other for these hundred Years. At present the whole Island is partly under the direction of the Dutch East India Company, who have a Resident or Factor who constantly lives here, without whose leave the Natives are not to supply any other Nation with anything whatever; but the whole produce of the Island, besides what serves themselves, is in a manner the property of the Company. The Company by way of a Tribute oblige them to raise and pay Annually a certain quantity of Rice, Indian Corn, and Callivances, for which the Company makes Each of the Kings a yearly present of a Cask of Arrack, and some other Trifles; the live stock, Sheep and Goats' flesh, etc., they pay for in goods. The small Islands which lie about a League to the Westward of this pays Annually a Certain quantity of Arica Nutts, which is almost the only produce of that Island.

The Island of Rotte is upon the same footing as this of Savu; both these Islands, and the 3 Solors, belong to the Government of Concordia. From what we could learn of the Island of Timor, it seems to be much upon the same footing as it was in Dampier's time, which is that the Dutch possess little more of that Island than what lies under the Command of the Fort Concordia; the rest is in possession either of the Native Indians or the Portuguese. We were likewise told that the Island of Ende belongs to the Portuguese; that the principal settlement is at Larentucha, where there is a Fort and a good Harbour. We were told that the Concordia, on the Island Timor, is a free Port for Ships of any nation to touch at, where they would not only be supplied with refreshments, but Naval Stores also. Trading ships might probably meet with a good reception, but Kings' ships, I am perswaided, would be looked upon as Spys. For my own part was I only in want of refreshments, and obliged to touch at any of these Islands, I should prefer going to a Portuguese settlement before any of the Dutch, and when I was solicited by the Officers to call at Timor, I proposed going to one of the Portuguese settlements; but this Mr. Hicks made some Objections to, which was sufficient for me to lay it aside, as I had not the least inclination to touch any where till we arriv'd at Batavia, for my falling in with Savu was more chance and not design.

But to return to this Island, the Natives of which are of a Dark brown Colour, with long lank Hair; their Cloathing is a peice of Calicoe or other Cotton Cloath wrapped about their Middle; the better sort have another peice, which they wear over their Shoulders, and the most of them wear Turbands or Handkercheifs tyed round their Heads. They Eat of all the Tame Animals they have got, viz., Hogs, Horses, Buffaloes, Cocks and Hens, Dogs, Catts, Sheep and Goats, and are esteem'd much in the same order, as I have mentioned; that is, their Hog flesh, which is certainly as good as any in the world, they prefer before anything else; next to Hogs, Horses, and so on. Fish is not esteem'd by them, and is only eat by the common or poor people, who are allowed little else of meat kind.

They have a Custom among them, that whenever a king dies all the Cattle, etc., that are upon his Estate are kill'd, with which the Successor makes a feast, to which is invited all the principal people of the Island, who stay until all is consumed; after this they every one, according to his Abilities, make the young King a present, by which means he gets a fresh stock, which he is obliged to Husband for some time. The other principal men make also feasts, which are as extraordinary as these, for they seldom end so long as the giver has got anything left alive upon his Estate. They are said to be a people of good Morals, Virtuous and Chaste, each man having only one wife, which he keeps for life; Fornication and Adultry is hardly known among them. When a great Man marrys he makes presents to all his Wife's relations of European and other Foreign commodities to the value of 100 Rix Dollars. This Custom the Dutch East India Company find it to their Interest to incourage. They speak a Language peculiar to themselves, into which the Dutch have caus'd the new Testament to be Translated, and have introduced it, with the use of letters and writing, among them. By this means several hundred of them have been converted to Christianity; the rest are some heathens, and others of no religion at all, and yet they all stick up to the strict rules of Morality. They all, both Men and Women, Young and Old, Chew of the Beetle Leaf, Areca Nutts, and a sort of white lime, which I believe is made from Coral stone; this has such an effect upon the Teeth that very few, even of the Young people, have hardly any left in their Heads, and those they have are as black as Ink. Their houses are built on posts about 4 feet from the Ground; we asked the reason why they built them so, and was told that it was only Custom; they are, however, certainly the Cooler for it. They are thatched with Palm Leaves, and the Floors and sides are boarded.

The man who resides upon this Island in behalf of the Dutch East India Company is a German by birth. His name is Johan Christopher Lange. It is hard to say upon what footing he is here. He is so far a Governor that the Natives dare do nothing without his consent, and yet he can transact no sort of business with Foreigners either in his own or that of the Company's name; nor can it be a place of either Honour or Profit. He is the only white man upon the Island, and has resided there ever since it has been under the direction of the Dutch, which is about 10 Years. He is allowed 50 Slaves (Natives of the Island) to attend upon him. These belong to, and are Maintained by, the Company. He goes the Circuit of the Island once in 2 Months; but on what account he did not tell us. When he makes these rounds he carries with him a certain quantity of Spirit to treat the great men with, which, he says, he is obliged to look well after, otherwise they would steal it and get drunk; and yet, at another time, he told us that he never knew a theft committed in the Island; but some of the Natives themselves contradicted him in this by stealing from us an Axe. However, from their behaviour to us in general I am of opinion that they are but seldom guilty of these Crimes. This going round the Island once in Two Months is most likely to see that the Natives make the necessary preparations for fulfilling their engagements with the Dutch, and to see that the Large Boats or small Vessels are taken proper care of, which the Dutch keep in all the Bays of this Island in order to collect and carry the grain, etc., to the Ship which comes Annually here. They are likewise employed in carrying cattle, grain, etc., to Timor; and, when not wanted, they are hauled aShore into Houses or Sheds built on purpose. As I have mentioned Slaves, it is necessary to observe that all the great men have Slaves which are the Natives of the Island. They can dispose of them one to another, but cannot sell them to go out of the Island. The price of a Slave is a good, large, fatt Hogg, Horse, etc. I have before mentioned that many of the people can speak Portuguese, but hardly any one Dutch. From this it is probable that this Island was formerly under the Jurisdiction of the Portuguese, tho' the Dutch Government never own'd as much, but said that the Dutch had Traded here these hundred years past.* (* This account of the economy of Savu is a good example of Cook's powers of observation. He was only four days at the island, and yet gives us a good idea of the place and its inhabitants.)

[Sail from Savu.]

Saturday, 22nd. Winds at South-South-East, South-East, and East; a gentle breeze, which we steer'd West-South-West by Compass. At 4 o'Clock we discover'd a small low Island* (* Dama Island.) bearing South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues. The Island hath no place in any of our Charts: Latitude 10 degrees 47 minutes South, Longitude 238 degrees 28 minutes West. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 11 degrees 9 minutes South, Longitude 239 degrees 26 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since yesterday noon, South 63 West, 67 miles.

Sunday, 23rd. Winds Easterly; a moderate breeze, which by noon brought us into the Latitude of 11 degrees 10 minutes South, Longitude 240 degrees 48 minutes West. Course and distance saild since yesterday at noon is West, 8 miles.

Monday, 24th. Winds at East and South-East; a moderate breeze, and fine, pleasant weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 2 degrees 44 minutes West. At noon our Latitude was 11 degrees 8 minutes South, Longitude 242 degrees 13 minutes West. Since we have been clear of the Islands we have had constantly a swell from the Southward which I do not suppose is owing to the winds blowing anywhere from thence, but to the Sea, being so determined by the portion of the Coast of New Holland.

Tuesday, 25th. Moderate breezes at South-East, and clear, pleasant weather. At Noon our Latitude was 11 degrees 13 minutes South, and Longitude 244 degrees 41" West.

Wednesday, 26th. Winds and weather as yesterday. At Noon Latitude in 11 degrees 10 minutes, Longitude 245 degrees 41" West.

Thursday 27th. Winds at South-South-East; a fresh breeze. In the evening found the variation to be 3 degrees 10 minutes West. At noon we were in the Longitude of 247 degrees 42 minutes West, and Latitude 10 degrees 47 minutes, which is 25 Miles to the Northward of the Log, which I know not how to account for.

Friday 28th. Winds at South-South-East and South-East; a fresh breeze and Cloudy, with some Showers of rain. At Noon Latitude observed 10 degrees 51 minutes South, which is agreeable to the Logg, Longitude in 250 degrees 9 minutes, West.

Saturday, 29th. Moderate breeze at South-East and clear pleasant weather, Steer'd North-West all this day, in order to make the land of Java. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 31 minutes South and Longitude 251 degrees 40 minutes West.

Sunday, 30th. Fresh gales and fair weather. In the A.M. I took into my possession the Officers', Petty Officers' and Seamen's Log Books and Journals, at least all that I could find, and enjoin'd every one not to divulge where they had been.* (* These logs are now in the Public Record Office. Mr. Green's log ends on the 2nd October. Not being an officer, Cook doubtless overlooked it at first. This log should by rights have been returned to Mr. Green, but as he died shortly after leaving Batavia, it has found its way, with the others, to the Record Office.) At noon our Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at noon, is North 20 degrees West, 126 Miles, which brought us into the Latitude of 7 degrees 34 minutes South and Longitude 252 degrees 23 minutes West.

[October 1770. Enter Sunda Strait. ]

Monday, 1st October. First and latter parts fresh breezes at South-East and fair weather; the Middle squally with Lightning and rain. At 7 p.m., being then in the Latitude of Java head, and not seeing any land, assured us that we had got too far to the Westward; upon which we hauld up East-North-East, having before Steerd North by East. At 12 o'Clock saw the Land bearing East, Tack'd, and stood to the South-West until 4, then stood again to the Eastward, having very unsettled squally weather which split the Main Topsail very much, and obliged us to bend the other; many of our Sails are now so bad that they will hardly stand the least puff of Wind. At 6 o'Clock Java head, on the West end of Java, bore South-East by East, distant 5 Leagues; soon after this saw Princes Island, bearing East 1/2 South. At 10 o'Clock saw the Island of Cracatoa* (* The great eruption, and consequent destruction of the larger part of this island in 1883, will be remembered. It lies in the centre of Sunda Strait.) bearing North-East, distant 7 Leagues; Princes Island extending from South 53 degrees East to South by West, distant 3 Leagues. Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon is North 24 degrees 30 minutes East, 70 Miles. Latitude in per Observation, 6 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude 251 degrees 54 minutes; but either our Longitude must be erroneous or the Straits of Sunda must be faltily laid down in all Books and Charts; but this no doubt we shall have an opportunity to settle.* (* Cook's longitude was in error nearly three degrees. No lunars had been taken since they left Savu, and there is a current running westward. It is a good example of the error of dead reckoning, even with the most careful of navigators.)

Tuesday, 2nd. In the P.M., had the wind at South-South-East, South-East by South and South-South-East, with which we stood to the Eastward close upon a wind. At 6 o'Clock the Hill on Princes Island bore South-West by South, and Cracatoa Island, North 10 Miles; in this situation had 58 fathoms, standing still to the Eastward. At 8 o'Clock had 52 fathoms, muddy bottom, at 10 23 fathoms. By 4 in the morning we fetched close in with the Java shore in 15 fathoms, then steer'd along shore. At 5 it fell Calm, which continued with some Variable light Airs until noon, at which time Anger Point bore North-East, distant 1 League, and Thwart-the-way Island North. In the morning I sent a Boat ashore to try to get some fruits for Tupia, who is very ill, and, likewise, to get some grass, etc., for the Buffaloes we have still left. The Boats return'd with only 4 Cocoa Nutts, a small bunch of Plantains, which they purchased of the Natives for a Shilling, and a few Shrubs for the Cattle.

Wednesday, 3rd. Soon after 12 o'Clock it fell quite Calm, which obliged us to Anchor in 18 fathoms, Muddy bottom, about 2 Miles from shore, where we found a strong Current setting to the South-West. Not long before we Anchor'd we saw a Dutch Ship laying off Anger Point, on board which I sent Mr. Hicks to enquire after News.* (* It will be recollected that the Endeavour was now two years and two months from England, without the slightest chance of any news from home. We can imagine the anxiety and excitement on board on thus approaching civilisation, though they had no prospect of personal letters. With the frequent communication of modern times, we can scarcely realise such circumstances, and should certainly consider them as an exceeding hardship.) Upon his return he inform'd me that there were 2 Dutch Ships from Batavia, one bound for Ceylon, and the other to the Coast of Mallabar, besides a small Fly-boat or Packet, which is stationed here to carry all Packets, Letters, etc., from all Dutch Ships to Batavia; but it seems more Probable that she is stationed here to examine all Ships that pass and repass these Straits. We now first heard the agreeable news of His Majesty's Sloop The Swallow being at Batavia about 2 Years ago.* (* The Swallow, Captain Cartaret, had sailed with the Dolphin in 1766, but separated from her on emerging from the Strait of Magellan. The Dolphin had reached England some months before Cook sailed, but nothing had been heard of the Swallow, and fears were entertained of her loss.) At 7 o'Clock a breeze sprung up at South-South-West, with which we weighed and stood to the North-East between Thwart-the-way Island and the Cap:* (* Thwart-the-Way is an island that lies right across the fairway of Sunda Strait. The Cap is another smaller island that lies North-East of it.) soundings from 18 to 26 fathoms. We had but little Wind all night, and having a Strong Current against us, we got no further by 8 o'Clock in the morning than under Bantam Point. At this time the wind came to North-East, and obliged us to Anchor in 22 fathoms about 2 Miles from the Shore. The above point bore North-East by East, distant 1 League. Here we found a strong Current setting to the North-West. In the morning we saw the Dutch packet standing after us, but after the wind Shifted to the North-East she bore away. One of the Dutch Captains told Mr. Hicks yesterday that the Current sets constantly to the South-Westward, and that it would continue to set so for a Month or Six Weeks longer.

[In Sunda Strait.]

Thursday, 4th. In the P.M. had the wind at North-East by North, which obliged us to lay fast. About 6 o'Clock in the evening one of the Country Boats came alongside in which was the Commander of the Packet before mentioned; he seem'd to have 2 Motives for coming, one to take an account of the Ship, and the other to sell us refreshments, for in the Boat were Turtle, Fowls, Birds, etc., all of which they held at a pretty high Price, and had brought to a bad market, as our Savu stock was not all expended. I gave a Spanish Dollar for a small Turtle which weighed only 36 pounds. With respect to the Ship, he wanted to know her name, the Captain's, the place we came last from and were bound, as I would not see him myself. I order'd that no account should be given him from whence we came; but Mr. Hicks, who wrote the Ship's name down in his book, put down from Europe. Seeing this he expressed some surprise, and said that we might write down what we pleased, for it was of no other use than for the information of such of our Country men as might pass these Streights. At 7 o'Clock a light breeze sprung up at South-South-East, with which we got under sail. At 1 A.M. Anchor'd again, having not wind to stem the Current which we found to run 3 Knotts; at 2 o'Clock we weighed again, but, finding that we lost ground, we were obliged to Anchor in 18 fathoms, the Island Pulo Morack, which lies close under the Shore 3 Miles to the Westward of Bantam Point: bore South-East by South, distance 1 1/2 miles. Latitude observed, 5 degrees 55 minutes South.

Friday, 5th. At 5 in the P.M. we weighed with a light breeze at South-West by South, which continued not long before it fell Calm, and obliged us to Anchor again. At 1 o'Clock we weigh'd with the Land wind at South-South-East, which died away in the Morning, and the Current running strong against us we Anchor'd in 17 fathoms. A little before this, a Proe came alongside, wherein was a Dutch Officer who came upon the same business as the other. He sent me down a printed paper in English containing 9 Articles or Questions, of which this is a Copy.

"The Commanders and Officers of the Ships where this Paper may be presented, will be pleased to answer on the following Questions: viz., 1. "To what Nation the Ship belongs, and its Name. 2. "If it comes from Europe or any other place. 3. "From what place it lastly departed from. 4. "Where unto design'd to go. 5. "What, and how many, ships of the Dutch Company by departure from the last shore there lay'd, and their names. 6. "If one or more of these ships in Company with this is departed for this or any other place. 7. "If during the Voyage any particularity is hapned or seen. 8. "If not any ships in Sea, or the Streights of Sunda have seen or Hail'd in, and which. 9. "If any other News worth Attention at the place from whence the Ship lastly departed or during the vogage is hapned.

"Batavia in the Castle, the By Order of the Governor General and the Counselors of India.

"J. BRANDER BUNGL, Sect."

The first and fourth of these Questions I only answer'd, which when the Officer saw, he made use of the very same words the other had done before, viz.: that we might write what we pleased, for it was of no consequence, etc., and yet he immediately said that he must send that very paper away to Batavia by water, and that it would be there by to-morrow noon, which shows that the Governor and Counselors of India look upon such papers to be of some consequence. Be this as it may, my reason for taking notice of it in this Journal, is because I am well inform'd that it is but of very late years that the Dutch have taken upon them to examine all Ships that pass these Streights. At 10 o'Clock we weigh'd with a light breeze at South-West, but did little more than stem the Current. At Noon, Bantam Point* (* Bantam Point, now called St. Nicholas Point, is the north-west point of Java, and forms the north-eastern extreme of Sunda Strait.) and Pula Baba, in one bearing East by North, distant from the Point 1 1/2 Mile. Latitude observed, 5 degrees 53 minutes South.

Saturday, 6th. At 2 o'Clock P.M., finding we could not stem the Current, we anchor'd, with the Kedge Anchor, under Bantam Point, where we lay until 9, at which time Current made Slowly to the Eastward, and at the same time a light breeze springing up, we weigh'd and stood to the East until 10 o'Clock in the A.M., when the Current oblig'd us again to Anchor in 22 fathoms, Pula Baba bearing East by South 1/2 South, distant 3 or 4 Miles. Our sounding from Bantam Point to this place was from 36 to 22 fathoms.

Sunday 7th. Light Air from the Southward with frequent Calms. At 6 o'Clock P.M., weighed with a light breeze at South-South-West, which was not sufficient to stem the current, and was therefore obliged to come too again, in 15 fathoms. At 10 o'Clock weighed again and stood to the Eastward with the Wind at South-South-East. At 11 A.M., Anchor'd in 21 fathoms, the West end of Wapping Island bore South, distant 3 Miles, and the Thousand Islands North by East 1/2 East, distant 3 or 4 Miles. Found the Current still set to the Westward.

Monday, 8th. Had it Calm until 4 in the P.M., when we got the Sea breeze at North-East very faint, with which we weighed and stood to the Eastward, past Wapping Island, and the first Island to the Eastward of it. Falling little wind we were carried by the Current between this last Island and the 2nd Island, to the Eastward of Wapping Island, where we were obliged to Anchor in 30 fathoms, being very near a ledge of Rocks which spitted out from one of the Islands. At 1/2 past 2 o'Clock in the A.M., weighed with the land wind at South and stood out clear of the shoal, where we were again obliged to come to an Anchor, having Variable light winds attended with Thunder and rain. At 5 o'Clock the weather being fair, and a light breeze at South, we weighed, but making little or no way against the Current, we soon came too again, in 28 fathoms, near a small Island not laid down in the Charts; Pulo Pare* (* Wapping Island is now known as Hoorn, and Pulo Pare as Agenietan Islands. They lie, among many others, to the north-west of Batavia Roads.) bore East-North-East, distant 6 or 7 Miles. While we lay here a Proe came alongside, where in were 2 Malays, who sold us 3 Turtles, weighing 147 pounds, for a Spanish Dollar. Some on board thought them dear, but I thought they were cheap, founding my Judgment on the price the two Dutchmen that were on board before set upon those they had, one of which we paid a Dollar for, that weighed only 36 pounds.

Tuesday, 9th. A little past Noon weigh'd with a light breeze at North-East, and stood to the Eastward until 5 o'Clock, when, not being able to weather Pulo Pare, we Anchor'd in 30 fathoms, the said Island extending from South-East to South-South-West, distant 1 Mile. At 10 got the land wind at South, with which we weighed and stood to the East-South-East all night; depth of water, from 30 to 22 fathoms, and from 22 to 16 fathoms. When we Anchor'd at 10 o'Clock in the A.M. to wait for the Sea breeze, the Island of Edam bore South-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Miles. At Noon we weighed and stood in for Batavia Road, having the advantage of the Sea breeze at North-North-East.

[Arrival at Batavia.]

Wednesday, 10th, according to our reckoning, but by the people here Thursday, 11th. At 4 o'Clock in the P.M. Anchor'd in Batavia road, where we found the Harcourt Indiaman from England, 2 English Country Ships,* (* A country ship is a vessel under the English flag, but belonging to a port in English possessions abroad.) 13 Sail of large Dutch Ships, and a number of small Vessels. As soon as we Anchor'd* (* The Endeavour took nine days, and had to anchor fifteen times, in getting from Java Head, at the entrance of Sunda Strait, to Batavia, a distance of 120 miles.) I sent Lieutenant Hicks a shore to acquaint the Governor of our Arrival, and to make an excuse for not Saluting; as we could only do it with 3 Guns I thought it was better let alone.

[At Batavia.]

The Carpenter now deliver'd me in the defects of the ship, of which the following is a copy:--

"The Defects of His Majesty's Bark Endeavour, Lieutenant James Cook, Commander.

"The Ship very leaky (as she makes from 12 to 6 Inches water per hour), occasioned by her Main Kiel being wounded in many places and the Scarfe of her Stem being very open. The false Kiel gone beyond the Midships (from Forward and perhaps further), as I had no opportunity of seeing for the water when hauld ashore for repair. Wounded on her Starboard side under the Main Chains, where I immagine is the greatest leakes (but could not come at it for the water). One pump on the Starboard side useless, the others decayed within 1 1/2 Inch of the bore, otherwise Masts, Yards, Boats, and Hull in pretty good condition.

"Dated in Batavia Road,

"this 10th of October, 1770.

"J. SATTERLY."

Previous to the above, I had consulted with the Carpenter and all the other Officers concerning the Leake, and they were all unanimously of Opinion that it was not safe to proceed to Europe without first seeing her bottom; accordingly I resolved to apply for leave to heave her down at this place, and, as I understood that this was to be done in writing, I drew up the following request to be presented to the Governor, etc., etc.:--

"Lieutenant James Cook, commander of His Brittannick Majesty's Bark Endeavour, Requests of the Right Hon'ble Petrus Albertus Van der Parra, Governor-General, etc., etc., etc., the Indulgence of the following Articles, viz.:

"Firstly, That he may be allow'd a proper and convenient place to heave down and repair His Brittannick Majesty's Ship under his command.

"Secondly, That he may have leave to purchase such few Trifling Naval stores as he may be in want of.

"Thirdly, That he may be permitted daily to purchase such provisions as he may want; also such an Additional quantity as may enable him to proceed on his passage home to England.

"Dated on board His Brittannick Majesty's Bark Endeavour, in Batavia Road, the 11th October, 1770.

"JAMES COOK."

In the morning I went on shore myself and had the foregoing request Translated into Dutch by a Scotch Gentleman, a Merchant here.

Friday, 12th. At 5 o'clock P.M. I was introduced to the Governor-General, who received me very politely and told me that I should have every thing I wanted, and that in the Morning my request should be laid before the Council where I was desir'd to attend.

About 9 o'clock in the Evening we had much rain, with some very heavy Claps of Thunder, one of which carried away a Dutch Indiaman's Main Mast by the Deck, and split it, the Maintopmast and Topgallantmast all to shivers. She had had an Iron Spindle at the Maintopgallant Mast head which had first attracted the Lightning. The ship lay about 2 Cable lengths from us, and we were struck with the Thunder at the same time, and in all probability we should have shared the same fate as the Dutchman, had it not been for the Electrical Chain which we had but just before got up; this carried the Lightning or Electrical matter over the side clear of the Ship. The Shock was so great as to shake the whole ship very sencibly. This instance alone is sufficient to recommend these Chains to all Ships whatever, and that of the Dutchman ought to Caution people from having Iron Spindles at their Mast heads.* (* No instance is known of ships fitted with properly constructed lightning conductors having received any damage.)

[At Batavia.]

In the morning I went on shore to the Council Chamber and laid my request before the Governour and Council, who gave me for answer that I should have every thing I wanted.

Saturday, 13th. Received on board a Cask of Arrack and some Greens for the Ship's Company.

Sunday, 14th. Early this morning a ship sail'd from hence for Holland by which I had just time to write 2 or 3 lines to Mr. Stephens, Secretary of the Admiralty, to acquaint him of our Arrival, after which I went on shore and waited upon the Shabander, who has the direction of the Town, Port, etc., to get an order to the Superintendent at Onrust to receive us at that Island, but this, I was told, would not be ready before Tuesday next. Received from the Shore Fresh Beef and Greens for the Ship's Company.

Monday, 15th. Fresh Sea and land breezes and fair weather. I had forgot to mention, that upon our arrival here I had not one man upon the Sick List; Lieut. Hicks, Mr. Green, and Tupia were the only people that had any complaints occasioned by a long continuance at Sea.* (* This was an achievement indeed, and Cook records it in this simple observation. Of the many ships which had arrived at Batavia after voyages across the Pacific, none but had come to an anchor with crews decimated and enfeebled through scurvy. Hawksworth mentions, probably on the authority of Banks, that when passing Torres Straits there were several incipient cases of this disease in the Endeavour. The fresh provisions obtained at Savu probably dissipated these symptoms, if they were symptoms; but Mr. Perry, the surgeon, in his report, given in the Introduction, distinctly states that there were no cases after leaving Tahiti.)

Tuesday, 16th. Finding, by a strict inquiry, that there were no private person or persons in the place that could at this time advance me a sufficient sum of money to defray the charge I might be at in repairing and refitting the Ship--at least, if there were any, they would be afraid to do it without leave from the Governor--wherefore I had nothing left but to apply to the Governor himself, and accordingly drew up the following request, which I laid before the Governor and Council this morning, in consequence of which the Shebander had orders to supply me with what money I wanted out of the Company's Treasure:--

"Lieutenant James Cook, Commander of His Brittannick Majesty's Bark the Endeavour, begs leave to represent to His Excellency the Right Honourable Petrus Albertus Van der Parra, Governor-General, etc., etc., That he will be in want of a Sum or Sums of Money in order to defray the Charge he will be at in repairing and refiting His Brittannick Majesty's Ship at this place; which sum or sums of money he is directed by his Instructions, and empower'd by his commission, to give Bills of Exchange on the respective Offices which Superintend His Brittannick Majesty's Navy.

"The said Lieutenant James Cook Requests of His Excellency, That he will be pleased to order him to be supply'd with such sum or sums of money, either out of the Company's Treasure, or permit such private persons to do it as may be willing to advance money for Bills of Exchange on the Honourable and Principal Officers and Commissioners of His Brittannick Majesty's Navy, the Commissioners for Victualling His Majesty's Navy, and the Commissioners for taking care of the Sick and Hurt.

"Dated on board His Brittannick Majesty's Bark the Endeavour, in Batavia Road, the 16th of October, 1770.

"JAMES COOK."

Wednesday, 17th. In the P.M. I waited upon the Superintendent of Onrust, with an order from the Shebander, to receive us at that Island, but this order, the Superintendent told me, was not sufficient to impower him to give me the conveniences and assistance I wanted, and when I came to call upon the Shebander, I found this mistake was owing to the word "heave down" being wrong translated; this Circumstance, trifling as it is, will cause a delay of some days, as it cannot be set to rights until next Council day, which is not till Friday.

Thursday, 18th. In the P.M. received on board 2 live Oxen, 150 Gallons of Arrack, 3 Barrels of Tar, and one of Pitch; at daylight in the A.M. took up our Anchor and run down to Onrust.

At 9 Anchor'd in 7 fathoms off Coopers Island, which lies close to Onrust. There are wharfs at both of these Islands, and ships land there stores, sometimes on the one and sometimes on the other, but it is only at Onrust where the proper conveniences are for heaving down. Soon after we Anchor'd I went on shore to the Officer of the Yard, to see if they could not allow us some place to land our stores, but this could not be granted without orders.

Friday, 19th. In the P.M. I sent a Petty Officer to Mr. Hicks, who Lodges ashore at Batavia for the recovery of his health, with orders to desire him to wait upon the Shebander, in order to get the necessary orders respecting us dispatched to this place as soon as possible.

Saturday, 20th. Employ'd unrigging the ship, etc.

Sunday, 21st. In the P.M. orders came down to the Officers of the yard to comply with everything I wanted, but we could not yet get a Wharfe to land our Stores, they being all taken up by shipping.

Monday, 22nd. In the A.M. two ships went from the Wharfes at Coopers Island, when we prepared to go along side one of them.

Tuesday, 23rd. In the P.M. hauled along side one of the Wharfes, in order to take out our stores, etc., after which the Ship is to be deliver'd into the Charge of the proper Officers at Onrust, who will (as I am inform'd) heave her down, and repair her, with their own people, while ours must stand and look on, who, if we were permitted, could do every thing wanting to the Ship ourselves.* (* Here Mr. Corner's copy of the Journal ends abruptly. The record for the next day explains the reason, and there is no doubt that this was the copy of the Journal sent home. The Queen's copy ends on 10th October. The remainder of the Journal is taken from the Admiralty copy.)

[Reports Sent Home from Batavia.]

Wednesday, 24th. Employ'd clearing the Ship, having a Store House to put our Stores, etc., in. In the P.M. I went up to Town in order to put on board the first Dutch Ship that Sails, a pacquet for the Admiralty containing a Copy of my Journal, a Chart of the South Sea, another of New Zeeland, and one of the East Coast of New Holland. In the morning the General, accompanied by the Water Fiscall, some of the Council, and the Commodore, each in their respective Boats, went out into the Road on board the oldest Captain, in order to appoint him Commodore of the Fleet, ready to Sail for Holland. The Ships was drawn up in 2 Lines, between which the General past to the new Commodore's Ship, which lay the farthest out. Each ship as he passed and repassed gave him 3 Cheers, and as soon as he was on board, and the Dutch Flag Hoisted at the Main Topmast Head, the other Commodore Saluted him with 21 Guns, and immediately after Struck his Broad Pendant, which was again hoisted as soon as the General left the other Ship; he was then Saluted with 17 Guns by the new made Commodore, who now hoisted a Common Pendant. This Ceremony of appointing a Commodore over the Grand Fleet, as they call it, we were told is Yearly perform'd. I went out in my Boat on purpose to see it, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, because we were told it was one of the Grandest sights Batavia afforded; that may be too, and yet it did not recompense us for our trouble. I thought that the whole was but ill conducted, and the Fleet appear'd to be very badly mann'd. This fleet consists of 10 or 12 stout Ships; not only these, but all or most of their other Ships are pierced for 50 Guns, but have only their upper Tier mounted, and these are more by half than they have men to fight.

Thursday, 25th. In the evening I sent the Admiralty Packet on board the Kronenburg, Captain Fredrick Kelger, Commodore, who, together with another Ship, sails immediately for the Cape, where she waits for the remainder of the Fleet.*

(* The following letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty (now in Public Record Office) was also dispatched:--

"To Philip Stephens, Esq.

"Sir,

"Please to acquaint my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty that I left Rio de Janeiro the 8th of December, 1768, and on the 16th of January following arrived in Success Bay in Straits La Maire, where we recruited our Wood and Water; on the 21st of the same month we quitted Straits La Maire, and arrived at George's Island on the 13th of April. In our Passage to this Island I made a far more Westerly Track than any Ship had ever done before; yet it was attended with no discovery until we arrived within the Tropick, where we discovered several Islands. We met with as Friendly a reception by the Natives of George's Island as I could wish, and I took care to secure ourselves in such a manner as to put it out of the power of the whole Island to drive us off. Some days preceeding the 3rd of June I sent Lieutenant Hicks to the Eastern part of this Island, and Lieutenant Gore to York Island, with others of the Officers (Mr. Green having furnished them with Instruments), to observe the Transit of Venus, that we may have the better Chance of succeeding should the day prove unfavourable; but in this We were so fortunate that the observations were everywhere attended with every favourable Circumstance. It was the 13th of July before I was ready to quitt this Island, after which I spent near a month in exploring some other Islands which lay to the Westward, before we steer'd to the Southward. On the 14th of August we discovered a small Island laying in the Latitude of 22 degrees 27 minutes South, Longitude 150 degrees 47 minutes West. After quitting this Island I steered to the South, inclining a little to the East, until we arrived in the Latitude 40 degrees 12 minutes South, without seeing the least signs of Land. After this I steer'd to the Westward, between the Latitude of 30 and 40 degrees until the 6th of October, on which day we discovered the East Coast of New Zeland, which I found to consist of 2 large Islands, extending from 34 to 48 degrees of South Latitude, both of which I circumnavigated. On the 1st of April, 1770, I quitted New Zeland, and steer'd to the Westward, until I fell in with the East Coast of New Holland, in the Latitude of 30 degrees South. I coasted the shore of this Country to the North, putting in at such places as I saw Convenient, until we arrived in the Latitude of 15 degrees 45 minutes South, where, on the night of the 10th of June, we struck upon a Reef of Rocks, were we lay 23 Hours, and received some very considerable damage. This proved a fatal stroke to the remainder of the Voyage, as we were obliged to take shelter in the first Port we met with, were we were detain'd repairing the damage we had sustain'd until the 4th of August, and after all put to Sea with a leaky Ship, and afterwards coasted the Shore to the Northward through the most dangerous Navigation that perhaps ever ship was in, until the 22nd of same month, when, being in the Latitude of 10 degrees 30 minutes South, we found a Passage into the Indian Sea between the Northern extremity of New Holland and New Guinea. After getting through the Passage I stood for the Coast of New Guinea, which we made on the 29th; but as we found it absolutely necessary to heave the Ship down to Stop her leaks before we proceeded home, I made no stay here, but quitted this Coast on the 30th of September, and made the best of my way to Batavia, where we Arrived on the 10th instant, and soon after obtained leave of the Governor and Council to be hove down at Onrust, where we have but just got alongside of the Wharf in order to take out our Stores, etc.

"I send herewith a copy of my Journal, containing the Proceedings of the whole Voyage, together with such Charts as I have had time to Copy, which I judge will be sufficient for the present to illustrate said Journal. In this Journal I have with undisguised truth and without gloss inserted the whole Transactions of the Voyage, and made such remarks and have given such discriptions of things as I thought was necessary in the best manner I was Capable off. Altho' the discoverys made in this Voyage are not great, yet I flatter myself they are such as may Merit the Attention of their Lordships; and altho' I have failed in discovering the so much talked of Southern Continent (which perhaps do not exist), and which I myself had much at heart, yet I am confident that no part of the Failure of such discovery can be laid to my charge. Had we been so fortunate not to have run a shore much more would have been done in the latter part of the Voyage than what was; but as it is, I presume this Voyage will be found as compleat as any before made to the South Seas on the same account. The plans I have drawn of the places I have been at were made with all the Care and accuracy that time and Circumstances would admit of. Thus far I am certain that the Latitude and Longitude of few parts of the World are better settled than these. In this I was very much assisted by Mr. Green, who let slip no one opportunity for making of Observations for settling the Longitude during the whole Course of the Voyage; and the many Valuable discoveries made by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in Natural History, and other things useful to the learned world, cannot fail of contributing very much to the Success of the Voyage. In justice to the Officers and the whole Crew, I must say they have gone through the fatigues and dangers of the whole Voyage with that cheerfulness and Allertness that will always do Honour to British Seamen, and I have the satisfaction to say that I have not lost one Man by sickness during the whole Voyage. I hope that the repairs wanting to the Ship will not be so great as to detain us any length of time. You may be assured that I shall make no unnecessary delay either here or at any other place, but shall make the best of my way home. I have the Honour to be with the greatest respect,

"Sir,

"Your most Obedient Humble Servant,

"(Signed) JAMES COOK.

"Endeavour Bark, at Onrust, near Batavia, the 23rd of October, 1770."

"Although the discoveries made in this voyage are not great." In these modest words does Cook describe his work. I read them to mean that with his love of accuracy he did not wish to claim his explorations of New Zealand and the East Coast of Australia as discoveries, as it was already known that lands existed there; but seeing how little was known, and how completely he did his work, there are but few men who would have refrained from classing them, as indeed he truly might have, as discoveries.)

Friday, 26th. Set up the Ship's Tent for the reception of the Ship's Company, several of them begin to be taken ill, owing, as I suppose, to the extream hot weather.

[Heaving down at Batavia.]

Saturday, 27th. Employed getting out Stores, Ballast, etc.

Sunday, 28th. Employ'd as above.

Monday, 29th, Tuesday, 30th, Wednesday, 31st. Employ'd clearing the Ship.

[November 1770.]

Thursday, November 1st. Got every thing out of the Ship, and all clear for going alongside of the Carreening, but about Noon I received a message from the Officer at Onrust acquainting me that they could not receive us there until they had first despatched the Ships bound to Europe, which were down here taking in pepper.

Friday, 2nd, Saturday, 3rd, Sunday, 4th. Employ'd overhauling the rigging, and making rope, making and repairing Sails.

Monday, 5th. Clear, hot sultry weather. In the A.M. transported the ship over to Onrust, alongside one of the Carreening Wharfs.

Tuesday, 6th. In the A.M. the officers of the Yard took the Ship in hand, and sent on board a number of Carpenters, Caulkers, Riggers, Slaves, etc., to make ready to heave down.