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Chapter X: Book II (3)

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The time appointed for the ceremonial was two o’clock in the afternoon, and at half-past one o’clock the gentlemen invited to take part in the day’s proceedings assembled in the Vestry-Room of St. Luke’s Church, and proceeded from thence to the site of the proposed building, headed by the juvenile band of the Royal Military Asylum, playing national and other appropriate airs. The procession, on arriving at the spot, was received with loud cheers by a large number of the inhabitants who were admitted within the grounds.

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Mr. Tite, M.P., opened the business of the day in an appropriate speech, in the course of which he alluded to the kind gift of the freehold site by Earl Cadogan, the money for the erection of the building having been voted by the Vestry. The new hall, he said, when built, would not only be useful as regarded parochial purposes, but it would be an ornament to that locality. He was not disposed to introduce politics into a matter so purely parochial, but he could not help saying that, in the event of Chelsea obtaining a right to send representatives to Parliament—to which it is fully entitled on account of the number, respectability, and intelligence of its inhabitants—they could meet in their new hall, and there canvass and consider the claims of the candidates who presented themselves for their suffrages.

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Mr. Hanbury and Mr. Byng then severally addressed the numerous assemblage in suitable speeches.

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Mr. Charles Lahee, the respected Vestry Clerk, then read the following document, which was afterwards deposited in the bottle previously referred to:—“This building, the foundation stone of which was laid by the Right Hon. Lord Viscount Chelsea, on the 12th day of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty nine, is intended for the transaction of the parochial and municipal business of Chelsea, which contains at the present time a population, by estimation, of seventy thousand persons. It is built by the Vestry constituted by an Act for the better Local Management of the Metropolis (18th & 19th Victoria, cap. 120) upon freehold land presented them by the Lord of the Manor, and his heirs, from the designs of Mr. Willmer Pocock, architect, by Thomas Piper and Sons, builders. Contract sum £5630. Lord of the Manor, George, 3rd Earl of Cadogan.” To which was attached the names of the Rector, Churchwardens, Vestrymen, &c., &c.

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The Rev. Richard Burgess, of Trinity Church, Sloane Street, then offered an appropriate prayer, after which,

Mr. W. Rabbits, one of the vestrymen, presented a silver trowel to Viscount Chelsea, to be used in laying the first stone, and to be kept by his lordship as a token of the respect of the parishioners for him.

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Viscount Chelsea having expressed his acknowledgments for the compliment paid him,

Mr. Pocock, the architect, then placed the bottle containing the documents, &c., in the cavity of the under stone, which was covered with mortar. The other portion of the stone was then let down, and Viscount Chelsea having gone through the usual “masonic” operations in a workmanlike manner, his lordship declared the Vestry Hall to be in due course of erection amidst the loud cheers of all present.

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The erection of the entire building was completed in 1860, and, occupying such a central position, it adds materially to the respectability of the King’s Road. It is an attractive structure, and its architectural design reflects great credit on Mr. Pocock. The estimate laid before the Vestry Finance Committee on the 21st of February, 1861, by Mr. Charles Lahee, the Vestry Clerk, of the total probable cost of the Vestry Hall buildings, including the fittings and furniture, was altogether £12,059 16s. 2d.

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A portion of the building is occupied by the Chelsea Literary and Scientific Institution, for the use of which a rental is paid. T. L. Bull, Esq., was the original founder, and to his indefatigable efforts, for a considerable time, may be attributed the advantages that have been derived from it. It appears, however, that the receipts of this useful and admirable institution are unfortunately just now insufficient to meet the necessary expenditure, but it is gratifying to record that at a late influential meeting, held at the Vestry Hall, to consider the “present position and future prospects of the Institution,” and at which Lord George Hamilton, M.P., presided, it was unanimously resolved to extricate it from temporary difficulties.

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Mr. Charles Lahee, who has been Vestry Clerk for many years, has a private dwelling-house at the Vestry Hall. The offices are on the ground floor, and the large hall is at the rear of the building. The spacious room above the offices, and which fronts the road, is where the vestrymen weekly assemble, adjoining it are committee rooms, &c. The whole interior is well-arranged and admirably adapted for the requirements of the parish, which has now become one of the most populous and important in the metropolis.

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In Flood Street, near to the King’s Road, is a small Chapel belonging to the Primitive Methodists.

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METHODIST NEW CONNEXION CHAPEL.—This Chapel, which is situated in Radnor Street, King’s Road, was originally attached to the Commercial Tavern. After some time had elapsed it was converted into a place for Divine Worship, having undergone material alterations and made a distinct building. The Rev. Clifford Hooper was the Pastor, and the Congregation rapidly increasing they ultimately erected the Congregational Church in Markham Square. When that structure was completed, Radnor Street Chapel was purchased by the Methodist New Connexion Society, and to that body of the Christian church it still belongs. There is a very excellent Sabbath School, and the members and friends have expended, at different times, considerable sums in making it both commodious and comfortable.

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The Savings’ Bank is situated on the north side of the King’s Road. It was established in the year 1819. The benefits derived by the labouring classes, and others of limited means, by the establishment of such banks, are now so well known and appreciated that it would be needless to enumerate them. The Chelsea Savings’ Bank is one of the most secure and best conducted in London.

CHELSEA CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, MARKHAM SQUARE.

The foundation stone of this Chapel was laid on Tuesday, October 5th, 1858, and the building was opened for public worship on April 3rd, 1860, the Honourable and Rev. Baptist Noel, M.A., preaching at noon, and the Rev. Newman Hall, LL.B., in the evening. The Rev. Clifford Hooper was the first Pastor. He resigned the pastorate on account of failing health on the 3rd of June, 1863, and died on March 6th, 1864. The Rev. R. Brindley, of Bath, then accepted the pastorate, commencing his ministry on November 22nd, 1863, and on October 19th, 1865, was suddenly and unexpectedly called to his rest, in the very prime of life and in the midst of his labours. The Rev. Andrew Mearns, of Great Marlow, was then invited to become Pastor, and commenced his ministry, at Chelsea, on September 16th, 1866, where his pulpit ministrations and pastoral labours have been greatly blessed.

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The Chapel stands in a very prominent position, covering a large piece of ground at the north end of Markham Square, forming a very conspicuous and beautiful object from the King’s Road.

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The form of the building is slightly cruciform, having transepts projecting about five feet from the body of the Chapel. The prominent feature of the exterior is a tower and spire, rising from the west side of the southern transept to the height of 138 feet.

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The proportions are well-conceived, and the effect good. The dimensions in the clear, are, length 85 ft. 2 in.; length, including apse, 93 ft. 6 in.; width 41 ft. 3 in.; width across transept 51 ft. 3 in.; height from floor of chapel to ridge of open roof, 49 ft.; height from floor to roof, on the wall line, 22 ft.; and the height of school rooms 13 ft.

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The style of the building is in the second period of the Gothic. The exterior is entirely of stone; the interior, will accommodate on the ground and gallery floors, 1,150 adults, besides an additional gallery in the apse for the organ and choir.

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The ground floor is raised about four feet above the footway, and beneath are lofty and spacious schoolrooms for about 850 children, with requisite offices. The building was erected from a design by John Tarring, Esq., of Bucklersbury, and Messrs. Myers, of Lambeth, were the contractors who undertook the erection.

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The Sabbath School is well attended, and the labours of the teachers and superintendent very successful. Above 380 children are registered as scholars, and, on Feb. 28, the actual attendance was 256 in the morning and 356 in the afternoon, taught by 33 teachers.

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The various institutions and agencies connected with this Church are likewise flourishing under the oversight of the Pastor, who, we trust, may be long spared to a beloved and loving people.

WHITELANDS TRAINING INSTITUTION.

The old house now attached to these extensive premises was for many years a boarding school, conducted by the Misses Babington. Previous to that period it had no doubt been a scholastic establishment for young ladies, as I find that a discourse was delivered here, about 1772, by the Rev. John Jenkins, A.M., on Female Education and Christian Fortitude under Affliction.

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In the year 1842 the house and grounds were taken on a long lease by the National Society, and in 1850 a public meeting was held in London to raise funds for the erection of the present buildings.

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The Institution provides for the education, maintenance, and training of more than 100 young women, between the ages of 18 and 25, who purpose to become teachers of National Schools; and, secondly, for the daily instruction of children of the neighbourhood, in four schools.

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In one of these schools the charge of 10s. per quarter is made. It is attended by children whose parents would not wish to send them to the National Schools.

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The vast improvements which are everywhere conspicuous throughout the length of the King’s Road, as regards that portion of it which is within the boundaries of Chelsea, are far more numerous than in any other road in the metropolis. At the eastern and western extremities of the parish, there are Railway Stations, then there are the steamboats, besides these there are the omnibuses traversing the road every quarter of an hour. What a contrast does the King’s Road now present when compared with what it was at the commencement of this century!

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I now return to the bank of the Thames, passing through Flood Street, proceeding eastward along Queen’s Road West, (formerly called Paradise Row,) the residence of many of the Nobility and Gentry in the “Olden Times.”

Queen’s Road West.

In the year 1664, Mr. James Hamilton, probably by order of the Lord of the Manor, made a survey of this parish. It was further continued, till the year 1715, by the Rev. Dr. King, the rector, to whose labours this work is much indebted.

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From Hamilton’s survey, it appears that the Earl of Radnor resided in Paradise Row, {177} adjoining Robinson’s Lane. He entertained his Majesty King Charles II. most sumptuously on the 4th of September, 1660, at this house. When the above survey was taken, his relict, Lady Radnor, was in possession of the premises. There are in the Parish Register several entries of baptisms and deaths of this family. Lord Radnor died at this house July 17, 1685, and Lady Radnor, his second wife, who survived him, resided at Chelsea till her death in 1714. His son, Francis, by his second wife, who was a gentleman of general learning and good abilities, was buried at Chelsea.

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At the north end of George Place, Queen’s Road West, formerly stood an old white house, called “Queen Elizabeth’s Larder,” which was pulled down to erect the present houses.

THE BOTANIC GARDEN.

On the south side of Queen’s Road West, near to the river, is situated the garden belonging to the Company of Apothecaries. The earliest record that we possess of a Botanical Garden in England, was that of the celebrated John Gerarde, the father of English botany. The next in order of time was that of the elder Tradescant, who, about 1630, established a garden for the cultivation of exotic plants at South Lambeth; this collection was presented, in 1667, to the University of Oxford. The next garden in succession is this at Chelsea.

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Of these premises, containing three acres, one rood, the first lease was taken by the Company in the year 1673, for the term of 61 years, at a ground rent of £5 per annum. Mr. Evelyn thus mentions a visit he paid it:—“1685, August 7th, I went to see Mr. Watts, keeper of the Apothecaries’ garden of simples at Chelsea, where there is a collection of innumerable rarities of that sort particularly; besides many rare annuals, the true-bearing Jesuits’ Bark, which had done such wonders in quartan agues. What was very ingenious was the subterranean heat, conveyed by a stove under the conservatory, all vaulted with bricks, so as he has the doors and windows open in the hardest frosts, secluding all the snow.” Mr. Watts was succeeded by Mr. Doody, who enjoyed considerable eminence as a botanist, and he continued to superintend it till 1717, when the celebrated Petiver was appointed, who had officiated as demonstrator of plants since 1709. He accumulated so large a collection of natural history, that, some time before his death, Sir Hans Sloane is said to have offered him £4000 for it. After his death, Sir Hans Sloane purchased it, and it went eventually to the British Museum.

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Sir Hans Sloane granted the freehold of these premises, in 1722, upon conditions that the Company should pay a quit rent of £5 per annum for ever, and employ the same as a Physic Garden; that the Company should deliver to the Royal Society fifty specimens, the growth of the garden, till the number should amount to three thousand.

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It was here that Sir Hans Sloane first studied his favourite science; and he continued a friend to this establishment, continually enriching it with scarce and curious plants, besides contributing largely towards the building, &c. As a tribute of gratitude the Company of Apothecaries employed the celebrated Rysbrach on a marble statue of their benefactor, which stands in the middle of the garden. He is represented in a Doctor’s gown, with a full-bottomed peruke, and a roll in his right hand. It displays much dignity, and conveys a most pleasing impression of the learned person whom it represents. On the north side of the pedestal is the following inscription:—“In honour and perpetuation of the memory of Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., an eminent physician, and great encourager of the science of botany, this statue was erected by the Company of Apothecaries of London, 1733.” On the west side, “They being sensible how necessary that branch of science is to the faithful discharging the duty of their profession, with grateful hearts and general consent, ordered this statue to be erected in the year of our Lord 1733, that their successors and posterity may never forget their common benefactor. Placed here in the year 1737.” There is another inscription, similar in purport, on the south side of the pedestal.

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The garden is laid out in divisions, in which the plants, shrubs, and trees, are arranged systematically. On the south side of the garden, facing the Thames, formerly stood two large cedars of Lebanon. Lysons says, that Sir Joseph Banks made an accurate admeasurement of these trees, in 1793, and found the girth of the larger to be twelve feet eleven inches and a half, that of the smaller twelve feet and half an inch. Upon being measured again, in 1809, they had increased twelve inches in girth since 1793. There is now only one of these trees.

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Mr. Philip Miller resided many years in the house at the garden, and rendered himself particularly distinguished by his botanical works. He succeeded to the office of curator of this establishment in 1722, and resigned a little before his decease, which took place in 1771. He was buried in Chelsea churchyard, where a monument has been since erected to his memory by the Fellows of the Linnean and Horticultural Societies of London. He was succeeded in the management of the garden by his pupil, Mr. Forsyth, who, in 1784, was appointed chief superintendent of the Royal Gardens at Kensington, which he held till his death in 1804. Mr. Anderson was subsequently curator, and Mr. Wheeler demonstrator.

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Having thus endeavoured to give a brief sketch of the rise and progress of this establishment, it only remains to mention a few particulars in reference to its present condition.

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Within the last twenty-five years the garden has been in a great measure remodelled, and in consequence has become better adapted to the purpose for which it is maintained, namely, the instruction of medical students. Several of the old hot-houses and greenhouses have been removed, and new ones erected in their place; new arrangements of medicinal plants have been formed; and groups representing the natural orders of plants have been brought together to facilitate their study. Formerly two cedars of Lebanon, some of the first planted in England, were conspicuous objects from the river, but in 1853 one of these, which had become much decayed, was blown down, the other still remains, but is gradually decaying, being not only injuriously affected by the smoke of London, but like all the other large trees in the garden, more or less damaged by the deprivation of water caused by the construction of the deep sewer in the Queen’s Road. A fine specimen of a rare tree, the Salisburia adiantifolia, the Ginkgo of Japan, with leaves resembling those of the Maidenhair Fern in form, may be seen towering above the wall in the Queen’s Road. The alterations in this garden were commenced in 1846 by Mr. Robt. Fortune, the Chinese traveller, who was succeeded, in 1848, by Mr. Thomas Moore, the present Curator.

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Near to the Botanic Garden, in front of the river, stood a capital mansion, erected in the reign of Queen Anne, which was for many years inhabited by Mrs. Banks, the mother of Sir Joseph Banks.

CHRIST CHURCH.

This Church was consecrated on the 26th of June, 1839. It stands on a piece of ground for many years previously a market garden, and is situated in Paradise Street, Queen’s Road West. The exterior is particularly plain, and would admit of great improvements were there funds available for such a purpose. The interior will probably seat about 1000 persons. On the opposite side of the street there are neatly-designed schoolrooms, in which the children belonging to the National, Infant, and Sunday Schools assemble for instruction. Each of these schools is very well attended. The residents in a great portion of the immediate locality are poor, and consequently the most strenuous efforts are necessary to raise sufficient funds to meet the expenditure.

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The Rev. W. H. Howard, M.A., was the first Incumbent of the Church, and was much esteemed. He was a kind-hearted clergyman, and made every effort in his power to promote the spiritual and temporal welfare of the numerous poor in his district. He resigned in 1845.

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The Rev. W. W. Robinson, M.A., was, as is well known, most zealous in his exertions to accomplish the same great object. He was likewise a most strenuous supporter and advocate of Total Abstinence Societies from all intoxicating liquors.

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The Rev. G. S. Whitlock, M.A., succeeded Mr. Robinson. He displays an untiring zeal in the discharge of his sacred duties, and there are gratifying testimonies to prove that his ministerial labours have been blessed. Under his energetic administration of affairs a large amount of voluntary subscriptions have been collected, and many important improvements in the interior of the Church have been effected, and should he be spared to the District, no doubt the exterior will soon likewise have a more imposing appearance.

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GOUGH HOUSE was erected at the commencement of the last century by John, third Earl of Carberry. He died in his coach, as he was returning from London to this house in 1713, and was interred in Westminster Abbey. After his death the house and premises were in possession of the Gough family, several of whom resided here. Sir Richard Gough was a merchant in London; he died in 1727. Sir Henry Gough took the name of Calthorpe, in compliance with the will of his uncle, Sir Henry Calthorpe, K.B., and was created a peer, in 1796, by the title of Baron Calthorpe.

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The house was at length occupied by Mrs. Pemberton, who conducted an establishment for the education of young ladies for many years. The Rev. Richard Wilson, D.D., subsequently resided in it for a considerable period. At the present time the approach to this old mansion presents a melancholy contrast to what it was in former days.

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Gough House is now the Victoria Hospital for Sick Children, established in 1866. The frontage is otherwise occupied, and consequently the originally attractive appearance is entirely destroyed. The youthful patients come from all parts of the metropolis, and several from the country. The objects of the institution are as follow:—

1. The treatment, as in-patients, of children between the ages of two and twelve years.

2. The treatment, as out-patients, of children under sixteen years of age.

3. The training of nurses for children.

The Rev. A. G. W. Blunt, M.A., Rector of Chelsea, takes a deep interest in promoting this much-needed and admirable institution. The committee are now earnestly making an appeal for contributions to create a Building Fund, and when it is known that there is not in all the metropolis a single hospital BUILT for the special reception of children, it is to be hoped that such a noble charity will receive the liberal assistance of all benevolent persons.

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Edward Montague, first Earl of Sandwich, resided in this neighbourhood in 1663. Mr. Pepys, in his Diary, has recorded a visit he paid to that nobleman. “March 28, 1663. To Chelsea, where we found my lord all alone, with one joint of meat at dinner, and mightily extolling the manner of his retirement, and the goodness of his diet; the mistress of the house hath all things most excellently dressed; amongst other things her cakes admirable, and so good, that my lord’s words were, they were fit to present to Lady Castlemaine . . . ”

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Archbishop Sharpe resided here about 1691; he preached the sermon at the coronation of Queen Anne. Mackay says, “He is one of the greatest ornaments of the Church of England, of great piety and learning, a black man, and 55 years old.”

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Charles, Duke of St. Albans, natural son of Charles II. by Eleanor Gwynn, had a house here about 1692.

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Fitton Gerrard, the last Earl of Macclesfield of that family, died at his house in Chelsea, in 1702. A law-suit was commenced about the right of succession to his property, between Lord Mohun and the Duke of Hamilton, who had married his niece. A duel was fought between the competitors in Hyde Park, which proved fatal to both parties. The Duchess lived in Chelsea till 1714.

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Henry, Duke of Kent, had a house in Queen’s Road West, about 1715. On his Grace’s death, in 1740, the Dukedom of Kent became extinct.

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The beautiful Duchess of Mazarin resided in Queen’s Road West, and died there in 1699, aged 52. Her dramatic routs and musical entertainments were celebrated for their magnificence. The singers were from the theatres, and the instrumental performers the most eminent masters of the time. It is said that the design of introducing the Italian Opera into England was first concerted in this assembly. Lysons was told that it was usual for the nobility and others who dined at her house to leave money under their plates to pay for their entertainment. She appears to have been in arrears for the parish rates during the whole time of her residence at Chelsea.

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Mrs. Mary Astell resided here the greater part of her life, which was spent in writing for the advancement of learning, religion, and virtue. “The good Christian,” she would say, “only hath reason to be cheerful in this world.” She died at her house in 1731, in her 63rd year, beloved by all who knew her, and greatly esteemed by the inhabitants.

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Dr. Richard Mead, it appears by the parish books, resided here about 1714; he was an eminent physician. Matthew Mead, his father, was a celebrated Nonconformist divine. Dr. Mead had a house also in Great Ormond Street, which became a repository for all that was curious in nature and art. He built a gallery for his pictures and antiquities, which, when sold, produced as follows:—

57 days’ sale of books £5,518 10 11
3 ditto pictures 3,417 11 0
14 ditto prints and drawings 1,908 14 6
8 ditto coins and medals 1,977 17 0
5 ditto antiquities 3,246 15 6

The world was deprived of this distinguished physician in 1754. To the poor he gave money as well as advice.

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Sir Francis Windham had a house in Queen’s Road West, about 1700. He entertained Charles II. at Trent, after the battle of Worcester, where the king remained concealed for several days.

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The Rev. James Miller was born in 1703. He wrote the oratorio of “Joseph and his Brethren,” and translated and adapted to the English stage, the “Mahomet” of Voltaire, which met with great applause; but on the third night of its representation, being for his own benefit, he died suddenly at his house at Chelsea, in 1743.

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Dr. Alexander Blackwell, a physician, resided in a house near the Botanic Garden; he became involved in his circumstances, and was taken to prison for debt. Mrs. Blackwell possessed by nature a fine genius for drawing and painting, and being told that a Herbal was wanted, she drew from the life several of the physical plants. These were shewn to several eminent men, who being pleased with the undertaking she proceeded with the work, and at length procured her husband’s liberty. She not only made the drawings, but engraved them on copper plates, and coloured them. This celebrated work was completed in 1739. Mr. Rand, who had the care of the Botanic Garden, rendered her every assistance in his power. Unfortunately Dr. Blackwell left Chelsea and went to Sweden, where he was appointed physician to the king. Sometime afterwards, however, he was found guilty of high treason “in plotting to overturn the constitution of the kingdom, and sentenced to be broken alive on the wheel.” {184} It is further said that “he prayed with great devotion; but, having laid his head wrong, he remarked jocosely that, being his first experiment, no wonder he should want a little instruction.” Such jocularity, at such an awful moment, does not accord with earnest prayer.

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The Rev. Thomas Stackhouse, a learned and pious divine, resided in Queen’s Road West, about the year 1750; he was the author of “The History of the Bible,” &c.

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Mr. John Collett, the painter, resided here for a long period. The favourite subjects of his pencil were pieces of humour, somewhat in imitation of Hogarth. Collett died here in 1780.

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Mr. John Giles Eccardt had a house here for some years, and died in 1779; he was a painter of some eminence. The portrait of Gay, the poet, in Lord Orford’s works, now almost extant, is from a painting by Eccardt.

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Mr. W. Hamilton, a pleasing artist, resided also here for several years; his most capital work was “The Queen of Sheba entertained at a banquet by Solomon.”

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Mr. Samuel Cotes lived in Queen’s Road West, where he died in 1818. He painted miniatures both in enamel and water colours, and was in great practice.

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Mary, Duchess of Ormond, resided in a large house, near Chelsea Hospital, in 1730. She was a daughter of the Duke of Beaufort, and the second wife of James, Duke of Ormond. This house was for many years afterwards occupied as a school. It enjoyed a distinguished reputation for maritime education. The novelty of having a ship built on the play-ground, completely rigged, with sails bent, and of capacity sufficient to admit of twenty-four of the young gentlemen going aloft at one time, attracted general notice. This ship moved round on swivels, which enabled her to represent the evolutions of wearing or tacking. She was under the care of an old naval lieutenant, and was named “The Cumberland.”

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Sir Robert Walpole had a house and garden “next the College.” He built here an octagon summer-house and a large greenhouse, the latter filled with fine exotics by Lady Walpole; he had also a curious grotto. Nell Gwynn is said to have lived in this house when it was Crown property. It was taken down about 1808. On the site of this house is now a spacious infirmary for the sick and aged pensioners of Chelsea Hospital.

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SCHOOL OF DISCIPLINE.—This is the oldest Reformatory for young girls in London. It was opened by Mrs. Elizabeth Fry, who, with some Christian friends, brought six other children from Newgate to a small house at Chelsea, in 1825. Since that time a larger house has been taken in Queen’s Road West, near to Chelsea Hospital, and the number of children increased. They are daily instructed in the love and fear of God, carefully trained in all useful branches of household work, needlework, and the usual subjects of elementary secular education. The number of children now boarded, clothed, and educated in the school is 42. It is a “Certified Industrial School,” for the purpose of receiving, by magistrates warrants, girls who are either found begging, homeless, or frequent the company of thieves, &c. Twenty-one of such, in 1869, were under detention. They are paid for by the Home Office, the parents, where possible, contributing to their maintenance. The others are such as need restraint and discipline, and the parents are required to pay sums varying from 6d. to 5s., according to their means. It is conducted by a Ladies’ Committee, Mrs. Cromwell, the lady of the Principal of St. Mark’s College, kindly discharging the duties of honorary secretary.

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Mr. Thomas Faulkner, to whom this work is so greatly indebted, lived at the corner house, opposite the grounds of Chelsea Hospital. He was one of the principal booksellers in the parish, and possessed great literary attainments. As a local historian none have excelled him, and in private life no parishioner was more respected. He was interred in the Brompton Cemetery, where there is the following inscription to his memory:—“Thomas Faulkner, the historian of Chelsea, and an inhabitant of that parish 60 years. Born 1777, died 1855. Lector si monumentum requiris libros ejus diligenter evolve.”

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Mr. Richard Suett, who acquired considerable repute as a low comedian, died at his lodgings here in 1805, aged 47. He made his first appearance at Drury Lane in the character of Ralph, in the Maid of the Mill. He was buried on the north side of St. Paul’s Cathedral, where he had been educated as one of the choir; his disposition was amiable, and the needy always shared his mite.

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DURHAM HOUSE.—It appears that a large house was standing on this spot in 1694, it was then called the Ship House, and is said traditionally to have been a tavern, and frequented by the workmen whilst the Royal Hospital was building. The present structure, which was built in the beginning of the last century, has been distinguished for a great number of years as an eminent school. It is at present in the occupation of the Rev. John Wilson, D.D., of Holy Trinity Church, Knightsbridge.

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Durham Place was built in 1790, by Mr. Richardson, who was for many years steward to the Lord of the Manor; he resided in the detached house adjoining, on the north, which had extensive grounds, and was called by him Manor House.

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Green’s Row, a little eastward, was built in 1765. It was for many years the property of a Mr. Green, an extensive brewer. In one of these houses Henry Blunt, Esq., father of the late Rev. H. Blunt, resided for a considerable period. Mr. Blunt, sen., was universally respected in the parish. He held a commission in Queen Charlotte’s Chelsea Royal Volunteers.

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In Rayner Place resided Philip Burrard, Esq., for many years. He served the office of churchwarden of the parish, &c., and was a captain in the old Chelsea Volunteers.

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Mr. Robert Farrier, a celebrated artist and portrait painter, has resided in Hemus Terrace for some years. He is a very old inhabitant, and much respected.

Chelsea Royal Hospital.

On the site of this noble establishment—the home of our military veterans—was originally a college or place of education for controversial divines. It was projected by Dr. Sutcliffe, Dean of Exeter, in the reign of James I. The king was one of its best patrons, and supported it by various grants and benefactions; he himself laid the first stone of the edifice, in 1609; gave timber requisite for the building, and ordered that when erected it should be called “King James’s College at Chelsey.” Thus fortified, Dean Sutcliffe experienced no difficulty in obtaining from Charles, Earl of Nottingham, an advantageous lease of a plot of land which the latter held under the Crown, and which was called “Thame Shot,” for which he paid the yearly rent of seven pounds ten shillings. A charter of incorporation was granted, which limited the number of its members to a provost and nineteen fellows, of whom seventeen were to be in holy orders, the other two might be laymen. Their employment was to consist in noticing and recording the principal historical and religious events which might occur during the time they remained in office; but none of the members, on being elected bishops, could be permitted to retain their fellowships; by this charter, also, the college was enabled to use a corporate seal. The building, however, progressed but slowly. The Dean’s funds became exhausted; the proceeds of the king’s letter proved small. Out of two quadrangles which it was contemplated to erect, and of which the lesser was to be internally surrounded by a piazza, only a portion of one side was completed. Still the number of those who took an interest in the matter daily increased, and were far from despairing. “The work we confess,” says Darley, “hitherto proceeded slowly; and no marvel, seeing great works are not easily achieved. Noah’s Ark, God’s Tabernacle and Temple, &c., were long in building; and do we wonder that this college is not finished?”

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Several causes contributed to render the king’s appeal through the medium of the bishops of slight avail. In the first place, the expenses attending the collection of briefs were then inordinate. The money, after it had been gathered, passed through many hands, each of which took care to attach a portion to itself; while the efforts made about the same time to push forward the building of St. Paul’s Cathedral stood very much in the way of the completion of King James’s College. {188} With James I. died the only conscientious supporter, excepting the founder, and a few churchmen; the death of Sutcliffe was a deadly blight upon the prospects of his infant college. It was afterwards converted into a place for prisoners of war; and, with the manor, of which the Parliament took forcible possession, was ultimately put up to sale. Darley says, “It became a cage of unclean beasts, a stable for horses; and not only a place to make leaden guns in, but desired also for a palcestra to manage great horses and to practise horsemanship.” A print of the original design of this college was prefixed to a small book, called “The Glory of Chelsey College,” by John Darley, B.D., Rector of Northill, Cornwall. 1662. Archbishop Laud called it sneeringly “Controversy College.”

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In 1667, Charles II. resolved on granting this college to the Royal Society, which was about that time incorporated. And as a grant of the manor of Chelsea had been made to the Duke of Hamilton by Charles I., the heirs of that nobleman now conveyed it to Andrew Cole, in trust, for that learned body. The Society, however, did not hold their sittings in it, probably from its dilapidated state; they ultimately conveyed it, in 1681, to Sir Stephen Fox, for the king’s use, in order to build Chelsea Hospital, for the sum of £1,300.

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I will now give a description of the establishment of Chelsea Hospital. The building, as it now stands, was begun by Charles II., continued during the short reign of his successor, and completed by William and Mary.

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It has been just stated that the site of King James’s College was purchased of the Royal Society for the purpose of erecting this Hospital; but not being found sufficient, the lands lying between the College and the river Thames, and that in front of the present Hospital, now called Burton’s Court, were also purchased of Lord Cheyne and Sir Thomas Grosvenor, for about the sum of £1100. About twenty-two acres of this land, lying on the eastern side, were, in 1690, granted by the Crown to the Earl of Ranelagh.

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There are several pleasing legends told as to the origin of Chelsea Hospital. The following is one of them:—The King was sitting in his chariot, with poor Nell Gwynne, when observing her unusually pensive, he asked:

“What ails thee, Nell?”

She replied: “A dream I had last night, troubleth me sore.”

“What _was_ thy dream, Nell?”

“Methought I was in the fields at Chelsea, and slowly and
majestically there rose before mine eyes, a beautiful palace of a
thousand chambers; and in and out thereat walked divers many old and
worn-out soldier-men. Some had lost a leg, some an arm, others were
blind of an eye, many bore piteous scars of old wounds in the wars,
upon their wrinkled faces, and all of them were aged, and past
service. But none of them looked ill-at-ease, and as they went out,
and as they came in, the old men cried, ‘God bless King Charles!’ and
I awoke, and was sore discomfitted, that it was only a dream!”

“Cheer up, Nelly,” said the King. “Thy dream shall be fulfilled,
mayhap, thou shalt yet see old soldiers come in, and go out, crying,
‘God bless King Charles!’ The monarch did violence to his infirmity,
and kept his word.”

No appeal seems to have been made to the public at large, as was the case with King James’s College; but while the voluntary contributions of the charitable were received with gratitude, the troops were, to a certain extent, burdened with the expenses of the asylum from which they were themselves to derive the sole benefit. From the pay given to these, a deduction was made of one shilling in the pound; which, being divided into three equal parts, was one to defray the expenses of the Paymaster’s office, one to the general use of the soldiers, and one to the accumulation of a fund, first, for the building, and ultimately for the maintenance of the hospital. By giving to this a retrospective effect, so as to include the whole of the year 1680, and strengthened by donations of £1,300 from Sir Stephen Fox, of £1,000 from Tobias Rustas, Esq., of £1,000 from Sancroft, Archbishop of Canterbury, and of nearly £7,000 from the Secret Service Fund, the projectors of the establishment had at their disposal a sum of £17,012 14s. 7d. with which they determined to make a beginning.

The edifice was consequently begun in the year 1682, but was not completed till 1690. King Charles II., attended by a great number of the principal nobility and gentry, laid the first stone of this magnificent structure on the 16th of February, 1682. The whole expense of the building is computed to have amounted to £150,000.

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Sir Christopher Wren, to whose genius and abilities we owe the grandest edifices of which our metropolis can boast, gave the original design, and conducted the building to its completion.

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Chelsea Hospital is generally considered to be a fine specimen of Sir Christopher Wren’s professional abilities. It possesses a superior air of grandeur, more spacious arrangement of the principal parts, greater attention to the central points, for grace and effect, and a higher degree of chastity maintained in the whole structure than any public design entered into by Sir Christopher Wren, or his immediate successors.

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At the grand entrance, from the King’s Road, are four detached stone piers, with breaks, with an entablature, on which are military trophies. These piers, by their disposure, give three passes; the iron gates much modernised; dwarf walls, having cornices in succession, containing small door-ways. Two lodges, right and left, carry on the line, containing four compartments, or blank windows each.

* * * * *

The central approach, from the King’s Road to the north general front of the Hospital, including the Royal Avenue, has a very imposing effect, with trees on either side.

* * * * *

It would be impossible to give in this work an architectural description of Chelsea Hospital, or of its arrangements. It is within the reach of every inhabitant of London, and now as our country friends have the benefit of frequent railway excursions, almost every person in the country, may at any time give this home of England’s worn out and gallant defenders a personal inspection. Still it is necessary that a general sketch of the building and grounds should be given. I have therefore extracted most of the following particulars from Mr. Gleig’s admirable work.

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Chelsea Hospital occupies, with the buildings, courts, gardens, and offices attached, an area of something more than 54 square acres. Its principal courts, or quadrangles, are three in number; of which the central alone existed in 1690, though the good taste of a modern architect has provided that no discordance in style should be anywhere perceptible between the nucleus and the additions which have, from to time, gathered round it. Over the whole, there hangs an air of sobered and collegiate repose, as far removed from gloom on the one hand, as from garishness on the other; a character every way suitable to the purposes to which the edifice has been set apart, and in strict accordance with the habits and condition of its inmates.

* * * * *

The central court, which is open towards the south, and separated from what are called the water-gardens only by an iron railing, is closed in on the east and west by two ranges of buildings 365ft. in length by 40 in width; on the north and south by the hall and chapel, divided one from the other by a handsome cupola and gateway. In these long buildings, or wings, to the extent at least of 200ft. the old soldiers are chiefly housed—that is to say, such of them as are rated in the hospital books as privates, corporals, and sergeants. Sixteen wards or barracks arranged each into 26 bed places, furnish the men with adequate accommodation; while the sergeants occupy cabins, closed in, one at each extremity of the ward, in which it is their duty to preserve order. For the captains and light-horse distinct lodgings are provided. At the southern extremity of each wing, so as to project into the water-gardens, are the apartments of the Governor and the Lieutenant-Governor, both comfortable dwellings, altogether free from ostentation, yet well fitted for the uses of the distinguished officers to whom the honour of presiding over the first of England’s military establishments may be assigned.

“Go with old Thames, view Chelsea’s glorious pile,
And ask the shatter’d hero whence his smiles;
Go view the splendid domes of Greenwich—go,
And own what raptures from reflection flow.”—ROGERS.

The Chapel and Hall present, when examined from without, a perfect uniformity of appearance. Each has its plain brick front, indented with tall arched windows; and each appears to lean upon the noble stone pillars that flank the central gateway; while along that face that looks in upon the square, is a piazza, or covered gallery. Beneath are benches, on which the old men may occasionally be seen smoking their pipes in the heat of a summer’s day; while from either end branches off a passage, opening out a communication with the lesser or flanking quadrangles. Moreover, the cornice of this piazza bears a neat inscription, indicative of the purpose which the hospital is meant to serve, and partly commemorative of the names of the sovereigns to whom the country stands indebted for so noble an institution.

* * * * *

The Hall is 110 ft. in length, and 30 in width; an oblong of the best proportions, in length, width, and height, befitting the purposes of the Royal Institution. Wainscotting with compartments rise to the sills of the windows, and is continued to the high pace. At the entrance end, compartments also, with a gallery supported by ornamented cantalivers; on the centre of the gallery a large ornamental shield with the Royal Arms of Charles II. most exquisitely carved.

* * * * *

Over the gallery is a large allegorical picture, painted by Ward, representing Field Marshal the Duke of Wellington, in a triumphal car, trampling upon the emblems of War, Anarchy, and Rebellion, whilst Victory is crowning him, and Peace and her attendant deities are following in her train. It was purposely painted for the Hospital, and a present from the British Institution. Concerts, in honour of Queen Anne’s coronation, were performed in the great Hall of the Hospital, in the year 1702, under the direction of Mr. Abel, singing master.

* * * * *

There is a statue of Charles II. in the centre of the square, cast in bronze, in the garb of a Roman warrior, and facing the north. It is said to be the production of Gibbons; but as a mere work of art, it cannot be very highly commended.

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With respect to the lesser or flanking squares, they are given up entirely to the lodgings of the officers of the establishment, to public offices, including clerks’ chambers, board-room, &c., and, as has just been stated, to the accommodation of a certain number of captains and light-horsemen. In both, the buildings are lower and less solid than those which surround the principal square. But the general character is the same throughout. Brick walls, inlaid with a profusion of square windows, all of them deep seated, and carefully touched in the mouldings; free-stone finishings to each angle, gateways flanked by free-stone pillars, and a roof universally high, and covered with grey shining slate, point to a period when, in the arrangement of such edifices, every approach to a classic model was in this country carefully eschewed.

Let us return to a further description of the Hall, and also notice some events which have taken place in it.

* * * * *

Over the high table, and occupying the whole length of the western face, is another painting, which was designed and begun by Verrio, though finished by Henry Cook, representing Charles II. on horseback, surrounded by groups of heathen gods, with a distant view of Chelsea Hospital in the background. This painting was the gift of one of the Earls of Ranelagh. Flags and trophies, taken in battle, are suspended round the hall. These occupy, in a double row, the spaces that intervene between the windows, while in front of the music gallery, elevated above a bundle of spear handles, waves the Union jack. In the hall are double rows of tables, generally covered, as if all the inhabitants of the pile took here their meals; but the practice of dining together has long since died out. Among the officers it ceased in 1796; among the men some years previously.

* * * * *

TRIAL OF GENERAL WHITELOCKE.—On Thursday, Jan. 30, 1808, this hall was prepared for the trial of this officer. The charges against him were in substance four, viz.:—

1. Having, contrary to the tenor of instructions, in the summons to Buenos Ayres, required that the civil officers and magistrates should be prisoners.

2. Exposing the army, in marching against Buenos Ayres, to a destructive discharge of musketry from the town.

3. Not being present personally on the advance against Buenos Ayres.

4. Surrendering the Fortress of Monte Video without necessity.

The Court, after having proceeded with the trial for several days, allowed the General a week for his defence; and on the 24th of March, the Secretary to H.R.H. the Commander-in-Chief communicated officially to General Whitelocke the sentence of the Court Martial, as approved by his Majesty, as follows:—“That the said Lieutenant-General Whitelocke be cashiered, and declared totally unfit and unworthy to serve his Majesty in any military capacity whatever.”

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There have been two or three Courts of Inquiry, &c., convened at subsequent periods, but they created nothing like the interest that was shewn at the time of the above trial.

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The remains of the late Duke of Wellington were laid in great state in this hall for several days in September, 1852. Thousands of persons from all parts of the country, as well as many distinguished foreigners, came to witness the splendid but mournful spectacle. Such exhibitions, however, seem rather to belong to past ages than to the present period.

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From the Hall to the Chapel the visitor passes across a noble vestibule lighted from above by a cupola, and which, besides serving as a communication to both apartments, constitutes the principal entrance into the Hospital itself. Over the altar is a fresco painting, which represents the Resurrection of our Saviour, sublimely described in the 28th chapter of St. Matthew’s Gospel. It is the production of Sebastian Ricci. The chapel bears the same proportions as the dining hall. It was consecrated by Dr. Compton, Bishop of London, on the 13th of October, 1691. The service of plate, for the use of the altar, was given by King James II.

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The first organ was the gift of Major Ingram; but, in 1817, a new one was placed in the original case, built by Gray, at the expense of four hundred guineas. It contained at that time 704 pipes with 12 pedal pipes.

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In the chapel are deposited the standards of Tippoo Saib, the whole of the eagles, thirteen in number, that were taken during the war with France, &c. Both the chapel and hall must be visited to be fully appreciated, and this remark equally applies to the different wards, the water-garden, and indeed every part of this noble establishment.

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Chelsea, in the Olden & Present TimesChapter X: Book II (3)

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