Chapter XI: Book II (4)
Chelsea Hospital is, of course, designed to furnish an asylum for those members of the regular army alone, whom wounds, sickness, or old age, may have totally disabled. Its inmates are therefore, in some way or other, invalids, that is to say, men affected by some infirmity, which, though not visible to the eye of the common spectator, is by the patient himself abundantly felt. For the reception of those who require admission into it, a spacious Infirmary has been erected, where the aged patients receive the best medical treatment and every requisite comfort.
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Amongst the chaplains during this century may be mentioned the Rev. W. Haggitt, M.A., the Rev. Richard Yates, D.D., the Rev. G. R. Gleig, M.A., and the Rev. G. Matthias, M.A., who at the present time holds the appointment.
THE HOSPITAL BURIAL GROUND, &c.
On the east side of the Hospital, adjoining Queen’s Road East, originally called Jews’ Row, is the cemetery, formerly used for the interment of the officers and pensioners belonging to the establishment. Near the entrance, on the right, is the tomb of Simon Box, the first pensioner there buried in 1692.
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There is a very droll epitaph in this burial ground, to the memory of William Hiseland, which states that “when an hundred years old he took unto him a wife.” It appears he had served in the army 80 years. He was born in 1620, and died in 1732, so that at his decease he was 112 years old. A literary gentleman, referring to the above marriage, exclaimed, “Oh, the centenarian wooer and antidiluvian bridegroom—of what chronology was his bride? Let us hope she was as silly at one end of the mortal story, as he was in his second childhood, at the other!”
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In this ground was buried General Sir William Fawcett, K.B., Governor of the Hospital, who died in 1804, aged 76. His remains were attended to the grave by the Prince of Wales, the Dukes of York, Clarence, Kent, and Cambridge, and by several noblemen and general officers.
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Although Dr. Monsey was not buried here, yet, as he died in the Hospital, we must not omit to notice so remarkable a character. Sir Robert Walpole assiduously cultivated his acquaintance, and the celebrated Earl of Chesterfield acknowledged with gratitude the benefits he had derived from his medical assistance.
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The character of Dr. Monsey, in point of natural humour, is thought to have borne a near resemblance to that of Dean Swift. His classical abilities were indeed enviable, and his memory wonderfully retentive; insomuch that he was allowed to be a storehouse of anecdote. The exuberance of his wit, which, like the web of life, was of a mingled yarn, often rendered his conversation exceedingly entertaining, sometimes rather offensive, and at other times pointedly pathetic and instructive. Sir Robert Walpole knew and valued the worth of his “Norfolk Doctor,” as he called him; but though he knew it, he neglected it. The Prime Minister was very fond of billiards, at which his friend very much excelled him. “How happens it,” said Sir Robert, in a social hour, “that nobody will beat me at billiards, or contradict me, but Dr. Monsey?” “They get places,” said the Doctor, “I get a dinner and praise.”
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The following anecdote is very characteristic of the Doctor’s turn of temper, and is said to be well attested. He lived so long in his office as physician to Chelsea Hospital, that, during many changes of Administration, the reversion of his place had been successively promised to several medical friends of the Paymaster-General of the Forces. Looking out of his window one day, and observing a gentleman below, examining the hospital and gardens, who he knew had secured the reversion of his place, the Doctor came down stairs, and going out to him, accosted him thus:—“Well, sir, I see you are examining your house and garden, that ARE TO BE, and I will assure you they are both very pleasant and very convenient. But I must tell you one circumstance—you are the fifth man that has had the reversion of the place, and I have buried them all. And what is more,” continued he, looking very scientifically at him, “there is something in your face that tells me I shall bury you too!” The event justified the prediction, for the gentleman died some years after; and, what is still more extraordinary, at the time of the Doctor’s death there was not a person who seems to have even solicited the promise of a reversion. He died in 1788, aged 94.
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On a table monument is an inscription to the memory of John Wilson, Esq., Deputy Treasurer of Chelsea Hospital, and Lieutenant-Colonel of the Royal Volunteers. He died of apoplexy in 1812, aged 56. The monument was erected by the officers of his regiment, as a token of their esteem.
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Benjamin Moseley, M.D., thirty years physician to the hospital, was buried here in 1819, aged 73.
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General Sir David Dundas, Governor of Chelsea Hospital, was buried here in 1820. His funeral was attended by the Duke of York, accompanied by his Staff.
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BURIAL OF A FEMALE DRAGOON.—Christiana Davis died at Chelsea in 1739. For several years she served as a dragoon, undiscovered, in the Royal Irish Enniskillen Regiment; but receiving a wound in her body she was then discovered, though her comrades had not the least suspicion of her being a woman. She behaved with great valour afterwards in Flanders, and was very useful in a battle to supply the soldiers with water and other necessaries, even to the mouth of a cannon. She had an allowance of one shilling per day, which she received till her death. She was interred, according to her desire, amongst the old pensioners, and three vollies were fired over her grave.
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Hannah Snell was also buried in this ground by her own desire. She enlisted, in 1745, in Guise’s Regiment of Foot, in which she served for some time, but deserted and enlisted in the Marines. She was severely wounded, and, on her recovery, sent to England. Her heroic conduct procured for her an annual pension of £30 for life. She also procured a pension from Chelsea Hospital, and after her discharge continued to wear her uniform. At length this poor creature became insane, and was placed in Bethlehem Hospital, where she died.
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Charles Burney, Mus.D., author of the History of Music, &c., was buried here in 1814, aged 88; he was organist at Chelsea Hospital, and father of Madame D’Arblay, the authoress of Evelina, Cecilia, and Camilla. She was also for many years the organist.
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Many a distinguished officer and old veteran have been interred in this ground. Amongst the pensioners some have lived to a great age. Thomas Asbey, buried in 1737, aged 112.—John Rogers, 1764, aged 103.—Robert Cumming, 1767, aged 116.—Peter Dowling, 1768, aged 102.—Peter Burnet, 1773, aged 107.—Joshua Cueman, 1794, it is stated, aged 123.—Richard Swifield, 1805, aged 105.—Abraham Moss, 1805, aged 106.—John Wolf, 1821, aged 107.—John Salter, 1827, aged 104. I have frequently conversed with the latter centenarian. In his youth he must have been a fine-built man, standing upwards of six feet high. He might often be seen, even within a short time of his death, sweeping away the autumn leaves in the walks of the hospital grounds, as a matter of choice. Such a circumstance suggests many serious reflections, which I leave to the reader to supply. There is also said to be an inmate at the present time, aged 106.
OLD RANELAGH GARDENS.
Adjoining the Royal Hospital, on the eastern side, stood the mansion of Richard, Earl of Ranelagh. This nobleman, about the year 1690, obtained from the Crown a large grant of land; he built a house thereon, and made it his principal residence till his death in 1712. In 1730 an Act was passed vesting this estate in trustees, and three years after the house and premises were sold in lots. About this period, Lacy, the patentee of Drury Lane Theatre, projected a plan for establishing a place of public entertainment on a large and splendid scale; and, in pursuance of this scheme, he took a lease of these premises. But it appears he soon gave up the undertaking, as in 1741, when the Rotunda was built, there were two other lessees, one of whom became a bankrupt. The property was then divided into 36 shares of £1000 each, the greater number of which were held by Sir Thomas Robinson, who built for himself a house adjoining to Ranelagh Gardens. Several of his friends took shares in the concern, and it became for a time prosperous.
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The Rotunda was opened with a public breakfast, &c., in 1742. It was an imitation of the Pantheon at Rome. The external diameter was 185 ft., the internal 150 ft. The entrances were by four Doric porticos opposite each other, and the first story was rustic; round the whole, on the outside, was an arcade, and over it a gallery, the stairs to which were at the porticos. The interior was fitted up with great taste, and from the ceiling descended 28 chandeliers, in two circles. Music and dancing were the principal attractions. From the branches of the trees that shaded every walk festoons of coloured lamps hung down. Royalty, nobility, and gentry visited it.
PRESENTATION OF COLOURS TO THE CHELSEA VOLUNTEERS.
On the 4th of January, 1804, a brilliant scene was displayed at Ranelagh, on the presentation of Colours to the Chelsea Royal Volunteers. About noon the trumpet announced the arrival of the Courtly party in three of his Majesty’s carriages, followed by others belonging to different noblemen. The company having alighted, Lady Harrington was conducted to her box by the Vice-Chamberlain. The Countess being seated two pairs of Colours were introduced, and placed on each side of the royal box. The King’s Colours of each regiment consisted of a plain Union standard, but the regimental one, which was designed and executed by the Queen and Princesses, was a superb piece of needlework, the ground being a rich purple silk, having in the centre his Majesty’s arms, embroidered and surrounded with sprigs of variegated tints and figures. At the lower corners were the letters “C. R.,” and under the armorial bearings the words, “Queen’s Royal Volunteers.” {199} After prayers and a suitable discourse, Lady Harrington thus addressed the officers:—
“Gentlemen,—Her Majesty having been graciously pleased to confer upon
me the honour of presenting to you these Colours, I am anxious to
express how highly I am flattered by this distinguished mark of the
Queen’s favour. At a time of all others the most awful, when our
country is threatened with the unprovoked attack of a most implacable
enemy, and when you have evinced your readiness to stand forward in
the defence of everything that is most dear to us all, what can be
more gratifying to you than being so particularly distinguished by
her Majesty, and receiving your Colours from her? Animated as your
hearts must be in gratitude to the Queen, in addition to every other
noble sentiment that has guided you, from the moment of the first
offer of your services, it would not only be superfluous, but
presumptuous in me, to add anything more upon the occasion than the
expression of every fervent wish for your success in the event of the
enemy carrying his threats into execution; confident that no power,
however strenuously exerted, will ever wrest these Colours from you
while there is yet left a man in your corps to defend them.”
To this speech a suitable answer was made by Lord Hobart, who expressed, in behalf of the corps, the most patriotic and grateful sentiments.
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Subsequent Directors turned Ranelagh into mere Assembly and Concert Rooms, and the gardens for a display of fire-works. It soon ceased to be an attractive promenade, and the brilliant display of beauty it had made for years was seen no more.
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In 1805 an order was made for taking down Ranelagh House, which had been the residence of Sir Thomas Robinson, and the Rotunda. The furniture was sold by auction, and the entire buildings. General Wilford became the purchaser of a portion of the land, on which he erected a large house, and resided in it for many years. The ruins of some of the original buildings belonging to Ranelagh Gardens remained for a considerable time afterwards. In the front of General Wilford’s house, on the north, some excellent cricket matches were played, for Chelsea then abounded with first-rate cricketers.
At length the Crown purchased General Wilford’s house and the land adjoining it, whereon the Rotunda formerly stood, for the use of Chelsea Hospital, and when Lord John Russell (now Earl Russell) became Paymaster-General, he caused the Ranelagh field, which was near the river, to be laid out into portions or lots, for the old men to occupy, each as his private garden. The remaining portion of the land of Ranelagh, on the east, has since been added to the Hospital Gardens, and presents one of the most picturesque specimens of gardening in the vicinity of London. To these gardens the public have free access. Along the side of them there is an excellent road leading to the Suspension Bridge, and on the opposite side a splendid range of Barracks erected within the last few years.
THE ORIGINAL CHELSEA BUNHOUSE.
Chelsea was famous for its buns from the commencement of the last century. Swift, who lodged in Church Lane (street), and used to walk to and from town, “two good miles, and just 5748 steps,” writes to Stella, in 1712, “Pray, are not they fine buns sold here in our town? * * * Was it not r-r-r-r-r-r rare Chelsea buns? I bought one in my walk.” This old bunhouse was a rather long building of one storey, with a colonnade in front, projecting over the pavement, the dwelling-house attached to it standing in the rear, with a large and well-kept garden behind it. It was situated in what was called Grosvenor Row, known as such at the time the bunhouse was pulled down, the site of which is a little eastward beyond the boundary line of this parish, and not far distant from Chelsea Hospital. George II. and Queen Caroline, and the princesses, bought buns here; as did George III. and Queen Charlotte, who presented to the proprietor a silver half gallon mug, and five guineas in it. Here, on Good Friday morning, £250 has been taken for buns; and so lately as 1839 no less than 240,000 buns were sold here on Good Friday. This may appear to many an incredulous number; but few persons at the present time can form an adequate idea of the immense demand for them.
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The Rev. J. B. Owen, of St. Jude’s, Chelsea, in one of his admirable lectures, delivered in 1860, humourously observed, “There is no poetry more delicate, nor was street music more popular, than the old bellman’s cry—‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’ Picture the enthusiasm of a local rhymer thus immortalising the article:—
O flour of the ovens! a zephyr in paste!
Fragrant as honey, and sweeter in taste!
Hail to the bellman, who sings as he runs,
‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’
As flaky and white as if baked by the light,
As the flesh of an infant, soft, doughy, and slight;
The public devour thee like Goths and Huns,
‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’
Prelates, and princes, and lieges, and kings,
Hail for the bellman, who tinkles and sings,
Bouche of the highest and lowliest ones,
‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’
Like the home of your birth, or the scent of a flower,
Or the blush of the morning on field or bower,
There’s a charm in the sound which nobody shuns,
Of ‘Smoking hot, piping hot, Chelsea buns!’
This bunhouse had become so famous, not only throughout London, but for several miles round it, that not to visit Chelsea on Good Friday, and purchase some of the “rare buns,” was considered as unaccountable amongst a certain class—such as the servants of the nobility and gentry, shopmen, mechanics, and apprentices—as it would have been for them to acknowledge that they had never heard of Greenwich Fair. But this part of Chelsea, and the adjoining “Five Fields,” now Eaton and Belgrave Squares, actually did represent a minor Greenwich Fair. From my own personal observation I should say, provided the weather was favourable, there were generally on Good Fridays nearly 200,000 persons collected in the immediate neighbourhood. It was a fair to all intents and purposes. In the “Five Fields” there were drinking booths, swings, gingerbread stalls, nine-pins being played, gaming, and all the other vicious “entertainments” which annually disgraced the metropolis in former times. Such was the pressure of the immense crowd at the bunhouse, from about three o’clock in the morning till five in the afternoon, that the only mode of supplying the demand for buns was by obtaining them through apertures in the shutters. The bunhouse, however, was very respectably conducted, and such scenes as I have described were only to be witnessed on the day previously named—a day set apart to commemorate the most momentous event, as regards its consequences, in the history of the world.
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There were many things very attractive at the original bunhouse. In it was a collection of pictures, models, grotesque, figures, and modern antiques. In a conspicuous position were two leaden figures of grenadiers of 1745; a plaster figure of William, Duke of Cumberland; a painting of the King and Queen seated; a model of the bunhouse, and of the exploits of a bottle conjurer. This celebrated building was pulled down some years since, and with it the olden charm fled.
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Having thus arrived at the eastern boundary of the parish, I trace my steps through Queen’s Road East, formerly called Jews’ Row. Many years ago this road, for scenes of depravity, was as bad as any part of the East end of London; but it happily was confined to this limited locality, and arose from the circumstance that the Out-Pensioners from nearly all parts of the country had to come to Chelsea Hospital to receive their pensions, and disabled soldiers to pass the Board, &c., previously to being discharged from the army. The Government at length wisely altered the arrangement for paying the Out-Pensioners, and they now receive their pensions in districts nearer to where they dwell, which prevents their being put to the expense of coming to London, being robbed by “sharpers,” or beset by prostitution. Jews’ Row, and its former scenes, comparatively speaking, have passed away, and what remains of vice and crime, in some of the crammed courts leading from it to Turks’ Row, is gradually disappearing, through the exertions of the Rev. J. B. Owen, M.A., of St. Jude’s Church, the District Visitors, and other agencies. These courts will probably be cleared away before many years have elapsed, and Queen’s Road East will then become one of the leading and most attractive thoroughfares in the parish of Chelsea.
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One very great improvement took place some few years since. The Burial Ground was enclosed by a high dismal-looking old wall, which was pulled down, and a new one built, not more than three feet high, on which a neat iron-railing is placed, thus removing much vice and preventing many robberies, and rendering the road perfectly safe.
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In the year 1793 a horrible murder was committed in a house fronting the North Court of the Royal Hospital. The victims were Mr. Silva and Mary Williams, his servant. It appears to have been perpetrated in the morning, between half-past eight and twelve o’clock.
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George Saunders, at the inquest, stated that when the alarm was given he entered the house, and, on lifting up the servant, Mary Williams, there were signs of life, but she expired in two or three minutes. Mr. Silva was alive, but speechless, and died shortly afterwards. He found in a closet in the kitchen two iron chests, unlocked, and empty. In the front room, one pair of stairs, a bureau open, with the drawers out, and the papers in confusion, and on the floor a quantity of bedding, folded up.
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Mr. North, surgeon, gave a fearful account of the wounds received, and the jury, after a lengthened investigation, found a verdict of wilful murder by persons unknown.
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A nephew of Mr. Silva was taken up on suspicion, and examined at Bow Street. He shewed, by respectable evidence, that he was at home when the murder was committed, and was discharged. This person, however, afterwards committed suicide, and he was buried in the highway at Chelsea, leaving great doubts of his innocency of the crime.
Royal Military Asylum.
On the site of the Royal Military Asylum stood a capital mansion, the residence for many years of the Cadogan family, and afterwards the property of Sir Walter Farquhar, Bart., of whom it was purchased for the purpose of erecting the present Institution.
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The Royal Military Asylum for the children of soldiers of the regular army is situated near the Royal Hospital, on the north east. It was built by Mr. Copland, from the designs of Mr. Sanders. On the 19th of June, 1801, the first stone of this structure was laid by the Duke of York, accompanied by many general officers, and a considerable number of the nobility. The motives which gave rise to the establishment, and the principles upon which it is founded, are alike honourable to the present enlightened age, and congenial with the soundest maxims of policy, humanity, and benevolence. “The necessity of such an Institution will appear obvious,” says Mr. Faulkner, “when we consider the helpless and forlorn condition of many among these orphan objects of commiseration, who in this comfortable asylum are clothed, have good wholesome food, acquire a decent education, are taught the principles of Christianity, and, finally, are made useful in whatever course of life they may be enabled to adopt.”
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The ground in front of this spacious building is laid out in grass plots and gravel walks, and planted with trees. The edifice forms three sides of a quadrangle; it is built of brick, with an elegant stone balustrade in the centre of the western front, which is ornamented with a noble portico of the Doric order, consisting of four columns, which support a large and well-proportioned pediment. On the frieze is the following inscription:—“The Royal Military Asylum for the Children of Soldiers of the Regular Army.” Over it are the Imperial arms. The north and south wings are joined to the principal front by a colonade, which forms a good shelter for the boys in wet weather.
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The vestibule is in the centre of the grand front. On the left and right are the dining halls, 80 ft. long and 30 ft. wide. Over these are the schoolrooms, of the same dimensions. The committee-room is over the vestibule.
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The north wing contains the apartments of the Commandant, Surgeon, Quartermaster, and dormitories for the boys; the south wing, apartments for the Adjutant and Secretary, the Masters of the Normal and Model Schools, and dormitories.
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On the south of the grounds stands the Normal School of the Royal Military Asylum, in which reside the Students who are being trained for Schoolmasters in Her Majesty’s army.
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The Chapel was consecrated in 1824, and is calculated to contain the whole of the establishment, with accommodation for upwards of 100 visitors.
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The girls were removed to Southampton in 1823, and the boys in that institution removed to Chelsea, so that now the latter contains only boys, and the former only girls.
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On the 20th of June, 1805, George III., the Queen, with the Princesses and Royal Dukes, visited the R.M. Asylum. They inspected several of the apartments, dining hall, &c., and his Majesty said it was one of the best institutions in the country. This was a regular gala day for the children.
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The King and Queen of the Sandwich Islands paid a visit to the Royal Military Asylum in the year 1824. Their Majesties were attended by Major-General Sir Willoughby Gordon, and appeared much delighted with the establishment, the nature of which was explained to them by the interpreter. They were received by the full band playing “God save the King,” and were highly gratified with the skill of the juvenile musicians. After having seen the children at dinner, their Majesties witnessed the various gymnastic exercises, and at their departure were saluted by the hearty cheers of the youthful regiment, which was drawn up before them.
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His late Royal Highness the Duke of York was the founder of this Institution, and constantly bestowed his best exertions in promoting the welfare, and increasing the comforts, of the helpless inmates nurtured within its walls. On his last visit, the children crowded round their benefactor, and gave him three hearty cheers. Such was the effect produced by it that the Duke could not refrain from shedding tears; and, patting the head of the foremost boy, he ejaculated, as he passed down the steps, “God bless you, my lads.”
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On the 7th of January, 1827, a sermon was preached by the Rev. G. Clark, M.A., chaplain, on the demise of the Royal Founder, at the conclusion of which he thus addressed the children:—“I need not tell you that it has pleased Almighty God to take away from this world the President of this Institution, the Duke of York. He was the firm friend of your fathers, and also a kind and steady friend to you, their children. Whatever advantages you enjoy in this Asylum, you owe, under Divine Providence, to the Duke of York. He was the founder of this Institution, and by his recommendations and exertions it was begun and completed. Many of you will remember this good friend who is now taken from us. A few months ago you beheld him walk through your ranks; you saw in his countenance the pleasure he felt from witnessing the healthy and creditable appearance of so many children of British soldiers. I exhort you to hold his memory in your hearts and affections; show your gratitude by improving the advantages he has given to you in this Asylum, and by doing your duty to God and man when you go forth into the world.”
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The following tribute to the memory of the Duke of York was written by Dr. Veitch, at that time physician to the Chelsea Dispensary:—“The knowledge which his late Royal Highness possessed of human nature, and what was becoming the character of British soldiers, induced him to impress on their minds a system of discipline at once correct and conveying lofty feelings; so that men thus trained were at all times ready to prefer death to subjugation. We may here say, with truth, that to the love of his country and the army he has prematurely fallen a victim. No self-gratification, no pleasures, were ever by him allowed to interfere with the duties he owed to the army and his country, and however late his hour of going to rest, he was invariably the first man at his post in the morning. We find individuals who are distinguished as statesmen, as admirals, as generals, but who are without the smallest pretensions to true greatness, because their talents and their courage are not blended with the chivalrous, the gallant, and finer inspirations flowing from the heart. Such men are generally anxious enough that their services should be appreciated by their Sovereign, while they overlook what they owe to others who have mainly contributed to their fame and to their fortune. The late illustrious Duke had no such narrowness; his soul was surrounded with generous and delicate attributes, rendering all periods of his splendid career utterly inaccessible to deeds of darkness, and also ever ready to expand to the light of truth, to the claims of justice and of humanity; and he is therefore eminently entitled to the character of a great man; because his high attainments in military affairs were combined with an exalted and refined sense of courage and of honour.”
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Lieutenant-Colonel George Williamson, the first Commandant of the Royal Military Asylum, died Sept. 6, 1812, and his remains were interred in the Burial Ground of the Royal Hospital on the 11th of that month. In consequence of the respect in which his memory was held by his Royal Highness the Commander in Chief, and the Commissioners of the Asylum, it was determined that he should be honoured with a military funeral; and his body was followed to the grave by the above-mentioned royal and illustrious personages. The procession was received, at the front entrance of the Royal Hospital, by the officers of that establishment, and conducted by the chaplains to the Chapel, where the funeral service was read by the Rev. G. Clark, and several psalms were sung by the children. The body was then carried to the burial ground in the same order, and the remaining part of the ceremony performed; the Duke of York, the Commissioners, officers, and children of the Institution, surrounding the grave. The whole was conducted with the greatest order and solemnity, and presented a very impressive scene. Since the erection of the Chapel, a handsome monument has been placed therein to the memory of this meritorious officer.
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About the year 1810 part of the glebe opposite to the Royal Military Asylum was purchased, under the authority of an Act of Parliament, for the use of this Institution; and other land, at Merton, in Surrey, was bought with the money as glebe to the Rectory of Chelsea.
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In concluding this brief description of the Royal Military Asylum, it may justly be observed that the contemplation of such a noble fabric is calculated to excite the liveliest emotions of gratitude for having been born in a country which abounds with charitable institutions. To the soldier it must continually afford the most pleasing prospects for the comfort and support of his infant children, and it will induce him to serve, if possible, with greater confidence and energy, feeling assured that if he falls in battle his country has provided a home for his helpless children.
ST. JUDE’S CHURCH.
This Church is situated in Turks’ Row, almost adjoining the extreme southern side of the Royal Military Asylum. The first stone of the edifice was laid in August, 1843, and it was consecrated and opened for Divine Service in June, 1844. The Rev. John Patterson, M.A., was the first Incumbent, and on his leaving Chelsea, the Rev. Shadwell Morley Barkworth, M.A., succeeded him. The present Incumbent is the Rev. J. B. Owen, M.A., who has laboured most zealously in the District some years. To his indefatigable exertions, and to the visitations of the District Visitors, &c., connected with the Church, much of the demoralization which generally prevailed in the numerous crowded courts, lying between Turks’ Row and Queen’s Road East, has been removed. Attached to the Church are National, Free, and Infant Schools, each of which are very well attended. A portion of the children belonging to the Hans Town Industrial School are here accommodated with sittings. The Church will hold about 900 persons.
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Proceeding in an easterly direction we arrive at what was formerly known as White Lion Street. Here very considerable improvements have been effected. The whole of one side of this street has been pulled down, by which means there is now a good road from the Suspension Bridge to Knightsbridge.
CHELSEA CHAPEL.
This Chapel was erected in 1865, and is situated on a part of the site we have just described, adjoining Lower Sloane Street. The Church worshipping within its sacred walls formerly occupied Paradise Chapel, Queen’s Road West, which still remains, and which was originally a school room belonging to a scholastic establishment, which occupied for many years the site of Calthorpe Place. It is still retained by the members of the above Church as a Ragged School.
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The Chapel is a plain white brick building, without any particular attempt at architectural display. Mr. James Cubitt was the architect. It will seat probably 1000 persons. There is a schoolroom underneath the Chapel, which will contain about 600 adults, in which there is a Day School for Girls and Infants in the week, and the Sunday School is also held in it, which numbers about 200. The Rev. Frank H. White, who resides in Hemus Terrace, is the Minister, and is much esteemed not only by the members of the church, but by all with whom he is associated in life.
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I must now proceed to Sloane Street, where first “I drew the breath of life,” and which is consequently endeared to me by recollections of the very earliest events of my life.
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Mr. Holland, in the year 1777, took a lease of one hundred acres of land, called in old records Blacklands, of Charles, Lord Cadogan, which now consists of Sloane Street, Cadogan Place, Hans Place, Exeter Street, Ellis Street, D’Oyley Street, Sloane Square, George Street, &c. The buildings were begun just at the commencement of the American war, owing to which their progress was much impeded.
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A very great improvement has at last been made at Grosvenor Bridge, in ancient times called Blandel Bridge. Its name was probably corrupted to “Bloody Bridge,” in consequence of the numbers of robberies and murders formerly committed on this spot. The entrance here into the parish, at the eastern end of Sloane Square, has been after years of delay considerably widened, and some spacious shops erected. There is also now an Underground Railway Station, and the West London Commercial Bank has likewise extensive premises in Sloane Square, both of which will confer very great advantages on the inhabitants of Chelsea, and the public in general.
Trinity Church, Upper Chelsea.
This Church is situated at the south end of Sloane Street, near Sloane Square. It is a brick structure of Gothic architecture, the western front consisting of a centre flanked by two wide towers rising to a level with the roof, and terminating with lofty octagonal spires. A large entrance door occupies the space from tower to tower to the height of the first division, giving access both to nave and aisles, over which stands a large window separated by two mullions, with trefoil headings slightly ornamented; above this is placed a circular stone surrounded by tracery, intended, probably, at some future period for a clock. The towers to the first blocking course are plain, but above they are enriched with trefoil-headed windows, divided into two compartments, slender buttresses separating the towers octagonally to the summit, crowned by a battlement and surmounted by obtuse-headed pinnacles. At each side of the centre great door there is a smaller one for ingress and egress to the aisles and galleries.
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The interior of the Church presents no peculiar feature requiring special notice, at the same time it possesses in its design all that is essential to impress the mind with the sacred character of the edifice. Those who are unable to pay for a sitting have comfortable free seats provided for them. The Church will probably accommodate 1500 persons. Attached to it, on the right, is a spacious schoolroom, designed to correspond with the architecture of the exterior of the Church. The whole of the schools are very well attended.
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The late Rev. H. Blunt, M.A., was the first Incumbent, and when he resigned the Rev. Richard Burgess, B.D., the present Rector of the Church, succeeded him. Trinity Church, from its consecration in 1830, has always been very numerously attended.
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In the Church are several tablets, amongst them is one to the memory of the Rev. H. Blunt.
SLOANE TERRACE WESLEYAN CHAPEL.
This Chapel was built in 1811. It is a neat and substantial edifice. The galleries extend round three sides of the interior, and the whole will accommodate about 1200 persons. The erection of this place of worship is to be attributed to the liberality of several beneficent gentlemen, among whom may be especially mentioned Joseph Butterworth, Esq., who, at that time, had summer apartments in Chelsea. The attention of these Christian friends had been arrested by observing a large number of the middling and poorer classes, in the vicinity of Jews’ Row, wandering about upon the mornings of the Sabbath. They accordingly took a large room, or small chapel, at nearly the end of George Street, and subsequently erected Sloane Terrace Chapel. The congregation and the members rapidly increased, and at various times many alterations have been made so as to render the chapel and schoolrooms more commodious. It is a pleasing thought, that, amidst a vast amount of Sabbath desecration, there is not a Church or Chapel in the parish, where the Sabbath School is not well attended.
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Nearly opposite to Sloane Terrace, in Sloane Street, resided for many years H. W. Burgess, Esq., a most accomplished artist. His gentlemanly deportment and piety endeared him to a large circle of friends. There was scarcely a benevolent society in the parish to which he was not a contributor.
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Thomas Hoblyn, Esq., who for many years was the Rector’s Churchwarden at St. Luke’s Parish Church, occupied a house at the corner of Cadogan Street, Sloane Street. He was one of several newly-appointed magistrates, about the time of the passing of the first Local Act of Parliament for the better assessing and collecting the Poor’s Rate, &c.
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The above house is now occupied as an Industrial Home for Girls, one of the many admirable institutions which reflect so much credit upon that part of Chelsea.
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Captain G. Bague, R.N., resided also in Sloane Street, nearly opposite Cadogan Place, for a long period. He was made a magistrate for the county at the same time as Mr. Hoblyn.
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The late Rev. H. Blunt, M.A., resided for a considerable time in Sloane Street.
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The late Sir Charles Wentworth Dilke, Bart., resided for some years at 72, Sloane Street. He died in 1869, at St. Petersburgh, after a short illness, which unexpectedly proved fatal, at the age of 58. He was born in London in 1810, was the only son of the late Mr. Charles Wentworth Dilke, chief proprietor and at one time editor of the _Athenæum_ newspaper, and subsequently the manager of the _Daily News_, and who died about eight years ago. His mother was Maria, daughter of Mr. E. Walker. He was educated at Westminster School, and subsequently at Trinity Hall, Cambridge, where he took his degree in Law instead of Arts. In early life he was associated with the literary labours of his father, whom he largely aided by his cultivated tastes, his wide range of information, sound judgment, and habits of business. He was one of the earliest promoters of the first Great Exhibition, and, indeed, acted as the leading member of the Executive Committee. The fact of his occupying such a position naturally brought Mr. Dilke into close and frequent contact with the late Prince Consort, who was much struck with the ability he displayed, and at whose suggestion the honour of knighthood was offered to him in recognition of his services. That honour, however, he declined; and with it refused all pecuniary remuneration, wishing his services to be purely honorary. Her Majesty, however, resolved that he should not be wholly unrewarded, sent to Mrs. Dilke a handsome diamond-bracelet, which, no doubt, will become an heirloom in the Dilke family. Mr. Dilke was also associated with the second Great Exhibition as one of the five Royal Commissioners appointed by Her Majesty. It has always been understood also that the resuscitation of the Royal Horticultural Society of London has been in a very great measure due to his exertions as one of the most active of its vice-presidents. It will be remembered that almost immediately after the death of the Prince Consort Her Majesty was pleased to confer a baronetcy on Mr. Dilke in recognition of the Prince’s friendship and personal regard for him. Sir Charles Wentworth Dilke sat in the last Parliament in the Liberal interest for Wallingford, defeating Mr. Serjeant Malins (who has since attained the Judicial Bench), but he lost his seat at the last general election. The late baronet, who was a magistrate for Westminster and for the county of Middlesex, married in 1840 Mary, a daughter of Captain Chatfield, but was left a widower a few years ago. By her he has left a son, born in 1843, Mr. (now Sir) Charles Wentworth Dilke, of Trinity Hall, Cambridge, who was returned at the last election as one of the members, in the Liberal interest, for the newly-enfranchised constituency of Chelsea, and another son, Mr. Ashton Wentworth Dilke, born 1850.
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The present Sir Charles Wentworth Dilke, Bart., M.P., resides at his late father’s house in Sloane Street. He has extensively travelled in America, and has published a very interesting work, entitled “Greater Britain,” and is the author of several pamphlets on social and political topics.
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THE PAVILION, HANS PLACE.—A few particulars respecting this once beautiful estate will no doubt be interesting to many of the readers of this work. When Mr. Holland took the lease of the land, formerly known as “Blacklands,” now Upper Chelsea, he reserved to himself 21 acres of it, on which he built an elegant house for his own residence. This was called the Pavilion, and it was purchased of Mr. Holland’s executors by Peter Denys, Esq., and became afterwards the property of his relict, the Right Hon. Lady Charlotte Denys, who resided in it with her family for some years afterwards. It consisted of three sides of a quadrangle, open to the north, and the approach was from Hans Place. The house was superbly furnished.
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In the library, on two mahogany pedestals, stood two busts in statuary marble of Pitt and Fox, by Nollekens. In the dining room were two excellent pictures by Fuseli; one a vision of Lady Jane Grey, before her execution, from a manuscript letter of Bishop Latimer to Dr. Bullinger; the other a scene from the tragedy of King Lear. To which might be added many others of equal worth.
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The south front faced an extensive and beautifully-planted lawn, gently rising to the level of the colonnade and principal floor. This front was originally built as a model for the Pavilion at Brighton, and was ornamented by a colonnade of the Doric order, extending the whole length of the building.
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On the west side of the lawn was an Ice-house, round which was erected an admirable representation of the ruins of an ancient Priory, in which the appearance of age and decay was strikingly faithful. The Gothic stone-work was brought from the ancient demolished residence of Cardinal Wolsey, at Esher, in Surrey. The lawn was ornamented by a fine sheet of water, which produced a most pleasing effect. The Priory displayed considerable variety of fanciful intricate paths and scenery, profusely ornamented with shrubs, and had a private communication with the house by the walks of the shrubbery.
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Lady Charlotte Denys gave annually a treat to the children of the “Hans Town Schools,” &c., and had booths erected in which they partook of tea, whilst others contained fruit and playthings to amuse them. On these occasions the inhabitants were admitted to witness the pleasing juvenile scene.
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HANS PLACE, SLOANE STREET.—Miss Landon (L.E.L.) was born in “snug Hans Place” in 1802, and spent the greater portion of her life in it. She went to school at No. 22, kept by Miss Rowden, who published “A Poetical Introduction to the Study of Botany,” and “The Pleasures of Friendship,” and at length became the Countess of St. Queutin.
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Among the inmates of the same house have been Lady Caroline Lamb, who married the Hon. W. Lamb, afterwards Viscount Melbourne, Miss Mitford, Lady Bulwer, &c.
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Mr. and Mrs. Alfred Wigan, the talented artistes, resided for some time in Hans Place.
ST. SAVIOUR’S CHURCH.
This Church is situated a little to the north of Hans Place, and near to Walton Street. The exterior has no particular pretensions to architectural display. The interior is neat, and possesses a greater degree of architectural design. It will seat probably more than 1000 persons. The Rev. W. Niven, M.A., was the first Incumbent, and retained it until recently, when the Rev. George Weldon, M.A., succeeded him. Of Mr. Niven it may justly be said that he was zealous and faithful, kind to the poor, and respected by all classes. There are excellent schools and many charitable societies which are liberally supported by the contributions of the congregation.
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CADOGAN PLACE.—These capital houses were principally erected by Mr. W. Whitehead, sen., on part of the land leased originally to Mr. Holland, as previously mentioned. Amongst the residents at different periods may be selected the names of Capt. Acklom, R.N.; Thomas Bryan, Esq.; W. B. France, Esq.; each of whom were made magistrates for the county at the same time as Mr. Hoblyn and Capt. Bague; C. Hopkinson, Esq.; H. Warburton, Esq., M.P.; Sir William Clay, M.P.; Dr. Veitch; the Rev. Richard Burgess, and the Rev. J. B. Owen.
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In Little Cadogan Place Mr. William Whitehead, jun., lived for a great many years. He was an extensive builder, and occupied a very prominent position in the parish.
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BOTANIC GARDENS, SLOANE STREET.—This garden was first planned and laid out in 1807, by Mr. Salisbury. The extent of ground was about six acres, and formed a delightful promenade for company. In the original plan the whole collection of plants was arranged according to the system of Linnæus, and was disposed of in seventeen different compartments. When Mr. Tate, in the year 1820, took possession of the premises, the inhabitants, wishing to make it a public promenade, the above arrangement was entirely superseded, and the interior of the ground laid out and converted into a Nursery. Mr. Tate, however, still devoted the hothouses and greenhouses to the raising of curious and rare exotics. Mr. Tuck, nurseryman and seedsman, is now in possession of a portion of the ground, but the whole presents a very different appearance to what it did many years ago.
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THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, situated in Cadogan Street, was built in 1811, by voluntary subscriptions. Previous to the erection of this Chapel, the Irish poor and others in Chelsea, as well as the Roman Catholic veterans in the Royal Hospital, had not any place to resort to on Sundays, or at such other times as they deemed it necessary to attend. Besides, there were several families in the locality who considered the erection of the Chapel indispensable. The Clergyman’s house adjoins the Chapel, and was built at the expense of the Rev. Abbé Voyaux de Franous, D.D. On the south of Cadogan Street, some short distance west of the Chapel, are the Convent, the Schools, and the Burial Ground, the latter being now closed for interments.
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Upon the site of the west end of Cadogan Street stood an ancient house, inhabited, in Bowack’s time, by Lady Matthews; it was afterwards known for many years as the Marlborough Tavern and Cricket Grounds. It is probable that the house was first established as a tavern during the life-time of the great Duke of Marlborough, who, it is said, resided at one time in Chelsea; hence Blenheim Street, &c., all contiguous.
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The old Admiral Keppel Inn, with its tea gardens, was pulled down in 1856, on the site of which is now a large tavern.
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CHELSEA COMMON was called in ancient records Chelsea Heath. It was bounded on the north by the Fulham Road; on the east by Blacklands Lane, now Marlborough Road; on the south by College Place, abutting on the King’s Road; and on the west by Sydney Street. It was attached to the Manor. Certain ancient houses, cottages, and farms, had a right of pasturage for forty cows and twenty heifers. To keep these there was always a cowkeeper, whose business it was to mark the cattle, to drive home the cows at night to the several owners, and to impound all cattle unmarked, or any horses which broke into the Common, or were found there.
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When the Old Church was to be rebuilt, the Common was enclosed by the consent of Charles Cheyne, Esq., Lord of the Manor, and the several proprietors, for 21 years, to defray part of the charges, by a lease bearing date March 1674, and thereby let to George Hill and Francis Guildford, who enclosed it, and quietly enjoyed it till 1695, when it was thrown open again. It would be an unnecessary waste of space to notice what took place for some years afterwards.
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At the commencement of the present century, however, the Lords of the Manor, the Rector, and the other proprietors, let the Common on building leases; after which the leases were found defective, by reason of one of the proprietors being under age, and it being considered that the then Rector could not bind his successors. An Act of Parliament was therefore obtained, which confirmed the leases and made them effectual.
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The Common (as was) has been for many years covered with houses, comprising Keppel Street, Whitehead’s Grove, College Street, Marlborough Square, Leader Street, &c.
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The principal entrance to the Brompton County Court is in Whitehead’s Grove. The house was formerly occupied by the Rev. Dr. Roberts, who gave instruction to a limited number of young gentlemen who resided with him.
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The Catholic Apostolic Church is situated in College Street, near to Whitehead’s Grove. The exterior has some claim to architectural design, although the entrance at the side is small, and there are no windows to give relief to its massive appearance. There is ample light, however, in the interior of the structure, and it is in every respect commodious.
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The spacious Drill Hall belonging to the 1st Middlesex Engineer Volunteers is also in College Street, near to the Fulham Road, where recruits are enlisted.
MARLBOROUGH CHAPEL.
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Chelsea, in the Olden & Present TimesChapter XI: Book II (4)
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