Chapter II: Front Matter (2)

Between the foot of the Inclined Plane and the Canada shore, a line of ferry boats has been established, affording a safe and pleasant method of transit between those points, and a view of the Falls from the river level. The best time for this trip is early in the morning or an hour or two before sunset, and the impressions made upon the mind in connection with it, will be among the most lasting of all the recollections of Niagara.

Returning to the Park by the stairway or the car, as the traveler may elect, we continue our examination of the objects of interest to be found within its limits. Its shady groves and pleasant walks, remnants of the natural forest improved by the hand of art, furnish delightful resting places or promenades; and its Art Gallery, Concert Hall, Pavilion, and other provisions for entertainment, serve to engage the attention of the visitor, and make pleasant the hours that pass while within the Park.

ELECTRIC ILLUMINATION.

One of the most enjoyable features of the visit to Prospect Park is that provided for the hours of evening. The illumination of the Falls and fountains by the electric light is a pleasing spectacle, and well worthy of a tarry to see. The electricity for the purpose is developed by one of the largest sized dynamo machines, kept in operation by a powerful turbine wheel, located in the Ferry building, the water-power supplied by a canal. The brilliant light thus produced is concentrated upon the Falls and Rapids, both in clear white and with prismatic effects, rendering them even more beautiful by night than in the full light of day.

An arrangement of fountains in which the waters are made to assume a variety of shapes, with revolving wheels and jets of spray, the whole illuminated with shifting lights of all colors, constitutes an exhibition amply rewarding a long journey to behold. The observer is fascinated by the ever-changing colors and gorgeous effects, more beautiful than any pyrotechnic display, which it very much resembles, only with intensified brilliancy of coloring, and more enduring in form.

GOAT ISLAND.

Passing out at the gate of Prospect Park, a short walk brings us to the toll-house of Goat Island, at the end of the bridge leading across to the group of islands which divide the cataract into its two distinctive parts. The largest of these bears the above name, which was given to it from a trivial circumstance, illustrating how easily a nickname or title becomes fastened “to stay” with a few repetitions, even from an unauthorized source. More than a century ago, a Mr. John Stedman placed some goats on the upper end of the Island, and through neglect they were suffered to remain uncared for during the winter, and died from exposure. Hence the name, which adheres to it, in preference to its authorized name of “Iris Island.”

The group comprises, in all, some seventeen islands, large and small, covering about sixty acres. The property belongs to the estate of the late Judge Porter, to whom it was ceded by the State of New York in 1818. Its possession at that time was regarded as of little consequence, and the attempt to put a bridge across was deemed foolhardiness; but it is said that an offer of a million and a half dollars has recently been refused for the estate.

The first bridge was a frail structure, and was soon carried away. It was replaced by a stronger one, which stood from 1818 to 1856, when it was removed, and the present elegant structure substituted. The foundations are heavy oaken cribs, filled with stone and plated with iron. The bridge itself is of iron, in four arches, each of ninety feet span, making a total length of three hundred and sixty feet. Its width is twenty-seven feet, comprising a double carriageway, with footway on either side. The bridge is a favorite place from which to view the Rapids, as the waters near the precipice below.

The first island of the group is Bath Island, which is utilized as the site of manufacturing enterprise, a large paper-mill occupying a position to command some portion of the splendid water-power so idly expending itself for naught. Crossing by a bridge of a single span to Goat Island, we find ourselves in a spot where Nature has been comparatively undisturbed. The forest remains almost in its primeval simplicity, which fact renders this a most charming and popular resort. Indeed, a visit to Niagara would be sadly incomplete were Goat Island and its attractions to be omitted.

Ascending a slight rise from the bridge, the road leads into a shady forest, and branches in three directions. The best method of visiting the points of interest is to first turn to the right, and follow the road or path to the foot of the Island, emerging from the forest near the stairway and bridge leading to

LUNA ISLAND.

This small but pleasant little islet divides the American Fall into two sections, the stream over which we cross from Goat Island constituting what is known as the Center Fall, beneath which is the Cave of the Winds. The island lies low, and the visitor may touch the water with the hand. The verge was formerly unguarded, but an iron railing now prevents a repetition of the melancholy accident that occurred here on the 21st of June, 1849, when the family of Mr. Deforest, of Buffalo, in company with a friend, Mr. Charles Addington, were visiting the scene. The latter, playfully catching up Annette, the little daughter of Mr. Deforest, said, “I am going to throw you in.” With a sudden impulse, the child sprang from his arms into the water. Horrified at the result of his pleasantry, Mr. Addington sprang after her, and both were immediately carried over the Falls. The mangled remains of the child were recovered the same day, in the Cave of the Winds, and the body of the unfortunate young man a few days later.

Returning to Goat Island, a short walk brings us to the building used as the dressing-room in which to prepare for a visit to the

“CAVE OF THE WINDS.”

This trip is made by ladies as well as gentlemen, water-proof suits being provided for any who wish to explore the famous cavern, and experienced guides are in readiness to accompany the visitor. The descent to the foot of the cliff is here made without the aid of machinery, by means of a spiral staircase known as

“BIDDLE’S STAIRS.”

This structure takes its name from the Hon. Nicholas Biddle, the well-known president of the United States Bank, at whose expense the enterprise of building it was carried out in 1829. The bank at this place is 185 feet high. Part of this descent is accomplished by an open stairway, of ordinary inclination, and the remainder by the perpendicular shaft or tower, which is 80 feet high, the whole comprising 147 steps.

From the foot of the tower, a pathway to the right, under the shadow of the overhanging cliff, leads to the Center Fall, which constitutes the aqueous curtain of “Æolus’ Cavern.” A secure stairway leads to the entrance of the Cave, and the visitor passes under the Fall, into the stormy recess made in the solid rock. The Cavern derives its name from the peculiar atmospheric effects produced by the action of the falling water, the compression of the air establishing a perpetual tempest, like that in which Æolus, the god of the wind, is said to dwell.

The Cave is 100 feet high by 100 deep and 160 long, and its existence is due to the action of the waters upon the shale, leaving the more solid limestone rock overhanging.

As one of the many novel experiences to be met in a visit to Niagara, the trip through this Cave will leave a lasting impression upon the memory. The sensations which wind and storm will always produce are here intensified by the novelty of the surroundings, and the realization of the fact that the forces of Nature are perpetually accomplishing here what they occasionally produce in the outer world. Add to this the spice of personal risk, really less than it seems to be, and the recollections of the occasion will be vivid and enduring.

From the foot of the stairway, another path leads to the river in front, and still another toward the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall. The latter is but little used, and is not kept in good condition. From a scaffolding 100 feet high, erected near the stairway in 1829, Sam Patch made his famous leap into the river, successfully accomplishing a feat, the repetition of which at Genessee Falls, shortly after, cost him his life.

Returning to the bank above, and continuing the walk along the brink, the next interesting point of observation is

TERRAPIN BRIDGE AND ROCK.

A stairway leads down to the Bridge, which crosses over to the Rock where for forty years the well-known Terrapin Tower constituted a landmark to be seen from all directions, standing as it did at the very verge of the Falls. The rock itself furnishes a favorable outlook, affording a near view of the Horseshoe Fall. The bridge is liable to be slippery from the action of the spray, and care should be exercised to avoid accident. In the winter of 1852, a gentleman while in the act of crossing fell into the stream, and was carried to the very verge of the Fall. By a remarkably fortunate circumstance, he lodged between two rocks, when he was discovered by some of the citizens, who rescued him by life lines, which he succeeded in fastening around his body. He was carried to a hotel, and remained speechless for several hours, so great was the shock to his nervous system.

THE CANADIAN OR HORSESHOE FALL,

Which is here seen to the best advantage, is about 144 rods wide, and 158 feet high. The depth of the water in the center is estimated at 20 feet. An experiment to demonstrate the depth was made in 1827. An unseaworthy vessel, drawing 18 feet of water, increased by leakage to more than 20 feet, was sent over the Falls, and cleared the ledge without touching.

The name “Horseshoe” is hardly true to the present shape, which is now more nearly rectangular. The horseshoe curve has been marred by the falling of portions of the cliff at various times, until its original symmetry has nearly departed. The precipice near the Terrapin Tower has suffered loss from this cause, until it was regarded as unsafe to continue the use of the Tower, and it was removed in 1873.

Along the south shore of the island, the walk or drive toward the east keeps in view the rapids, and leads us next to the group known as the

THREE SISTER ISLANDS.

These are connected with Goat Island and with one another by three handsome bridges, affording a magnificent view of the Rapids, the best, in fact, to be had from any point of observation. The scene presented from the outer island, as you gaze up the river, upon the vast expanse of foaming, turbulent water, seemingly threatening to overwhelm you and the ground on which you stand, and yet dividing as it passes you, or abating its fury as it reaches the shore at your feet, is one to fill the soul with admiration and awe, as, perhaps, no other view can do. The outlook from the bridges also awakens peculiar emotions. Standing only a few feet above the rapidly coursing torrent as it passes beneath you, the thought comes to the mind that here at least, “there is but a step betwixt time and eternity.” The fascination increases as the gaze is prolonged, and the mind which cannot be impressed with the sublimity of the scene, must be, like the soul devoid of music, “fit for treason, stratagem, and spoils.”

At the head of Goat Island, a little farther up the river, the view is quite expansive, commanding both banks of the stream, and the islands in the channel. Beginning at the right, the site of Fort Schlosser is seen about a mile away, marked by a small white building and a very large chimney. The name is associated with border history, the fort having been built by the French, afterward ceded to the English, and occupied as a military station by Captain Schlosser, from whom its later name was derived, the French having given it the title of Little Fort.

NAVY ISLAND,

Lying in the channel which sweeps around Grand Island on the Canada side, has an area of over three hundred acres, and is associated with Fort Schlosser in the annals of border history, having been made the _rendezvous_ of the “Patriots” in the “Rebellion” of 1837, under the leadership of McKenzie, who, with about twenty-five or thirty followers, became disaffected with the Canadian authorities, and planted their standard here as a rallying-point. The American steamer Caroline, a small boat supposed to be in the service of the “Rebels,” was chartered to run between the islands and the American shore. Friday, Dec. 29, 1837, she entered upon her work of “ferriage,” and after a profitable day’s work was moved to the wharf at Schlosser’s Landing. The same night, a detachment of British soldiers, under command of Capt. Drew, seized her, set her on fire, and the little steamer went down the stream in flames, and plunged over the Canadian Fall. The crew, and some of the “patriots” who were on board, escaped to the shore, with the exception of one man, Durfee, who was killed by a pistol shot in attempting to escape.

GRAND ISLAND,

The largest in the River Niagara, is twelve miles in length, its breadth varying from two to seven miles. Its soil, unlike that of the islands nearer the cataract, is very fertile, and much of it is under cultivation. Its historic annals are less interesting than those just mentioned, although one enterprise has a monumental reminder, still in a good state of preservation. A gentleman who in the current vernacular of to-day would doubtless be entitled a “crank,” conceived the project of making this island a place of refuge for the scattered tribes of Israel. In 1825 he laid the corner-stone of the “City of Ararat,” and erected a monument with imposing ceremonies. The latter still serves to remind the visitor that “cranks” are not original with the present generation.

At the foot of Grand Island is a smaller one, of about three hundred acres, called Buckhorn Island. The channel between them is called “Burnt Ship Bay,” from the destruction of two armed supply vessels by the French garrison at Schlosser, near the close of the French war of 1759, to prevent their acquisition by the English. They were brought to this bay, and set on fire, and the circumstance is thus commemorated by the name of the bay.

Corner’s Island, Gill Creek Island and Grass Island, all of them small, lie near the American shore, and are important, commercially or historically.

The first white man who saw the Falls, of whom we have any account, was Father Hennepin, the noted explorer. We present above a _fac-simile_ of the sketch made by him, representing the Falls as they were 200 years ago. We also give his extravagant description, preserving the orthography and the quaint style in which it was written:--

“Betwixt the Lake _Ontario_ and _Erie_, there is a vast and prodigious
Cadence of Water which falls down after a surprizing and astonishing
manner, insomuch that the Universe does not afford its Parallel. ’Tis
true, _Italy_ and _Suedeland_ boast of some such Things; but we may
well say they are but sorry Patterns, when compar’d to this of which
we now speak. At the foot of this horrible Precipice, we meet with the
River _Niagara_, which is not above a quarter of a League broad, but
is wonderfully deep in some places. It is so rapid above this Descent,
that it violently hurries down the wild Beasts while endeavoring to
pass it to feed on the other side, they not being able to withstand
the force of its Current, which inevitably casts them headlong above
Six hundred foot high.

“This wonderful Downfal is compounded of two great Cross-streams of
Water, and two Falls, with an Isle sloping along the middle of it. The
Waters which fall from this horrible Precipice, do foam and boyl after
the most hideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous Noise, more
terrible than that of Thunder; for when the Wind blows out of the
South, their dismal roaring may be heard more than Fifteen Leagues
off.

“The River _Niagara_ having thrown it self down this incredible
Precepice, continues its impetuous course for two Leagues together, to
the great Rock above-mention’d, with an inexpressible rapidity: But
having past that, its impetuosity relents, gliding along more gently
for other two Leagues, till it arrive at the Lake _Ontario_ or
_Frontenac_.

“Any Bark or greater Vessel may pass from the Fort to the foot of this
huge Rock above-mention’d. This Rock lies to the Westward, and is cut
off from the Land by the River _Niagara_, about two Leagues farther
down than the great Fall; for which two Leagues the People are oblig’d
to transport their Goods over-land; but the way is very good; and the
Trees are but few, chiefly Firrs and Oaks.

“From the great Fall unto this Rock which is to the West of the River,
the two Brinks of it are so prodigious high, that it would make one
tremble to look steadily upon the Water, rolling along with a rapidity
not to be imagin’d. Were it not for this vast Cataract, which
interrupts Navigation, they might fail with Barks or greater Vessels,
more than Four hundred and fifty Leagues, crossing the Lake of
_Hurons_, and reaching even to the farther end of the Lake _Illinois_;
which two Lakes we may easily say are little Seas of fresh Water.”

RETROCESSION OF THE FALLS.

The following extracts from an article written by Prof. Tyndall will be of interest in this connection:--

“The fact that in historic times, even within the memory of man, the
Fall has sensibly receded, prompts the question, How far has this
recession gone? At what point did the ledge which thus continually
creeps backward begin its retrograde course? To minds disciplined in
such researches the answer has been and will be, At the precipitous
declivity which crosses the Niagara from Lewiston on the American to
Queenston on the Canadian side. Over this traverse barrier the
affluents of all upper lakes once poured their waters, and here the
work of erosion began. The dam, moreover, was demonstrably of
sufficient height to cause the river above it to submerge Goat Island,
and this would perfectly account for the finding by Mr. Hall, Sir
Charles Lyell, and others, in the sand and gravel of the island, the
same fluviatile shells as are now found in the Niagara River higher
up. It would also account for those deposits along the sides of the
river, the discovery of which enabled Lyell, Hall, and Ramsay to
reduce to demonstration the popular belief that the Niagara once
flowed through a shallow valley.

“The physics of the problem of excavation, which I made clear to my
mind before quitting Niagara, are revealed by a close inspection of
the present Horseshoe Fall. Here we see evidently that the greatest
weight of water bends over the very apex of the Horseshoe. In a
passage in his excellent chapter on Niagara Falls, Mr. Hall alludes to
this fact. Here we have the most copious and the most violent whirling
of the shattered liquid; here the most powerful eddies recoil against
the shale. From this portion of the Fall, indeed, the spray sometimes
rises without solution of continuity to the region of clouds, becoming
gradually more attenuated, and passing finally through the condition
of true cloud into invisible vapor, which is sometimes re-precipitated
higher up. All the phenomena point distinctly to the center of the
river as the place of the greatest mechanical energy, and from the
center the vigor of the Fall gradually dies away toward the sides. The
horseshoe form, with the concavity facing downward, is an obvious and
necessary consequence of this action. Right along the middle of the
river the apex of the curve pushes its way backward, cutting along the
center a deep and comparatively narrow groove, and draining the sides
as it passes them. Hence the remarkable discrepancy between the widths
of the Niagara above and below the Horseshoe. All along its course,
from Lewiston Heights to the present position, the form of the Fall
was probably that of a horseshoe; for this is merely the expression of
the greater depth, and consequently greater excavating power, of the
center of the river. The gorge, moreover, varies in width as the
depth, of the center of the ancient river varied, being narrowest
where that depth was greatest.

“The vast comparative erosive energy of the Horseshoe Fall comes
strikingly into view when it and the American Fall are compared
together. The American branch of the upper river is cut at a right
angle by the gorge of the Niagara. Here the Horseshoe Fall was the
real excavator. It cut the rock, and formed the precipice over which
the American Fall tumbles. But since its formation the erosive action
of the American Fall has been almost _nil_, while the Horseshoe has
cut its way for five hundred yards across the end of Goat Island, and
is now doubling back to excavate a channel parallel to the length of
the island. This point, I have just learned, has not escaped the acute
observation of Prof. Ramsay. The river bends; the Horseshoe
immediately accommodates itself to the bending, and will follow
implicitly the direction of the deepest water in the upper stream. The
flexibility of the gorge, if I may use the term, is determined by the
flexibility of the river channel above it. Were the Niagara above the
Fall sinuous, the gorge would immediately follow its sinuosities. Once
suggested, no doubt geographers will be able to point out many
examples of this action. The Zambesi is thought to present a great
difficulty to the erosion theory, because of the sinuosity of the
chasm below the Victoria Falls. But assuming the basalt to be of
tolerably uniform texture, had the river been examined before the
formation of this sinuous channel, the present zigzag course of the
gorge below the Fall could, I am persuaded, have been predicted, while
the sounding of the present river would enable us to predict the
course to be pursued by the erosion in the future.

“But not only has the Niagara River cut the gorge--it has carried away
the chips of its own workshop. The shale being probably crumbled, is
easily carried away. But at the base of the Fall we find the huge
boulders already described, and by some means or other these are
removed down the river. The ice which tills the gorge in winter, and
which grapples with the boulders, has been regarded as the
transporting agent. Probably it is so to some extent. But erosion acts
without ceasing on the abutting points of the boulder, thus
withdrawing their support, and urging them down the river. Solution
also does its portion of the work. That solid matter is carried down
is proved by the difference of depth between the Niagara River and
Lake Ontario, where the river enters it. The depth falls from
seventy-two feet to twenty feet, in consequence of the deposition of
solid matter caused by the diminished motion of the river. Near the
mouth of the gorge at Queenston, the depth, according to the Admiralty
Chart, is 180 feet; well within the gorge, it is 132 feet.”

SUSPENSION BRIDGE.

Two miles below the Falls, the river is spanned by the structure so widely known by the above name. The banks are here very precipitous, and the river deep and rapid, and the erection of piers in the stream being an impossibility, the structure is suspended from cables passing over towers of solid masonry. The following statistics will be of interest to those of our readers who revel in figures:--

Length of span from center to center of towers 822 feet.
Height of tower above rock on the American side 88 „
„ „ „ „ „ Canada side 78 „
„ „ „ floor of railway 60 „
„ track above water 258 „
Number of wire cables 4
Diameter of each cable 10½ in.
Number of No. 9 wires in each cable 3,659
Ultimate aggregate strength of cables 12,400 tons.
Weight of superstructure 800 „
„ „ and maximum loads 1,250 „
Maximum weight the cable and stays will support 7,309 „

The bridge is a “two-story” affair, the upper part being used for the railway, and the lower for carriages and foot passengers.

WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS.

The narrowing of the channel in the vicinity of the Suspension Bridge greatly accelerates the current, and the tremendous force with which it rushes through the gorge from this point to the “Whirlpool,” throws the water into violent commotion. When it is considered that the calculated weight of the water that passes over the Falls every hour is 100,000,000 tons, and that this volume of water must find its way through a channel only about 300 feet wide, the terrific force with which it rushes along may be at least partially understood. Although the depth of the stream is here estimated at 250 feet, the force of the current is such as to _elevate_ the water from ten to forty feet above its natural level.

At the Whirlpool, the river takes a sharp turn almost at a right angle, circling around in the cauldron which it seems to have excavated for itself, and finally making its exit through a narrow gorge, the vast body of water no doubt passing out far below the surface, in a channel of immense depth.

The Whirlpool may be seen to advantage from either the Canadian or the American side. At the latter, the approach is through the grounds of De Veaux College, the fee for admission going to the funds of the institution. On the Canada side, extensive preparations have been made for the accommodation of visitors by the WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS PARK COMPANY.

A river-side walk has been constructed, partially by excavation from the side of the cliff, and a delightful park on the bank of the river, with plenty of trees and shrubbery, renders a promenade on this shore very attractive. An inclined railway, to facilitate the journey between the upper and lower levels, has been constructed, and equipped with cars, operating in a novel and ingenious manner. The cars have tanks below the seats; these tanks are filled with water from a spring at the back of the entrance building, by means of a pipe leading into the tank. 50 lbs. weight of water is sufficient to overcome the balance of the cars, and to carry the loaded car to the foot of the railway, the light one being simultaneously drawn to the top by the same power. Formerly these cars were operated by steam-power, but the present is by far the safest and most economical plan, there being no machinery to get out of order, no danger of damage from bursting of boiler, etc., the entire apparatus necessary being the check or governor, by which the person in charge can regulate or stop the speed of the car with perfect ease. These cars take 12 passengers each; the tanks are capable of containing 2,800 lbs. of water. As they reach the foot of the incline, a bolt or pin removes the fastening to the discharge pipe and discharges the water, thus leaving the car in readiness for its next ascent, which is made in about one and a half minutes. The total length of the railroad is 285 feet.

At the water’s edge, a photographic studio is located, thus giving to all an opportunity of being portrayed with the Whirlpool Rapids in the backgrounds.

Returning again to the Falls, we find on the Canada side several points of interest, not yet considered in these pages. At Table Rock an opportunity is afforded of visiting the MUSEUM, a collection of natural curiosities, works of art, etc., well worthy of a visit. A zoological garden is kept in connection, and an observatory affords a good outlook from a lofty stand-point.

THE BURNING SPRING.

About a mile above the Falls, reached by a pleasant drive or walk, across Cedar Island, in view of the Rapids, is the natural curiosity known as the Burning Spring, the waters of which are highly charged with sulphuretted hydrogen, which burns with a pale blue flame when ignited. This is supposed to have its origin in a coal formation, believed by some to be extensive, and worthy of mining. The proprietor, however, has not sufficient faith in the feasibility of the scheme to undertake it. Clark Hill Islands, a group of five, which are crossed in the approach to the burning spring, are in the midst of the rapids, and a fine carriage drive extends along their outer shores, affording a good view of the current, which is here very rapid. These islands are connected with the main land by two suspension bridges, which have been named “Castor” and “Pollux.”

On Cedar Island, near the Horseshoe Falls, a Pagoda has been erected, over 80 feet in height, from which a magnificent view can be had. It is a noticeable landmark from all points in the vicinity of the Falls.

LUNDY’S LANE BATTLE FIELD.

As a spot, of no little historical interest, the scene of the decisive battle between the English and American forces, July 25, 1814, receives many visitors, of all nationalities. The ground is about a mile and a half due west from the Falls, near the village of Drummondville, named in honor of Gen. Drummond, who commanded the British forces in the engagement. Two towers have been erected to mark the spot, and from their summits a good view is had of the surrounding country. It was the writer’s good fortune, on the occasion of his first visit to the scene, some years ago, to listen to a description of the battle from the lips of a surviving participant, who wore the British uniform on the occasion, but who gave the American forces great credit for gallantry in the fight. The total loss, in killed and wounded, was about eighteen hundred men.

DEVIL’S HOLE.

About half a mile below the Whirlpool, on the American side, a gloomy cavern in the bank has received the above title. It is about one hundred feet in depth, and from its forbidding aspect might well be regarded as the property of his Satanic majesty. Tradition makes this locality the scene of the massacre of the English supply train and escort in 1763, by the Seneca Indians, instigated by the French traders. The train was on its way from Fort Niagara to Fort Schlosser, and only three of its number escaped alive, while of the escort only eight returned to Fort Niagara.

Much that would be of interest to the reader might be written concerning the Falls and the surroundings, but we have already devoted a large amount of space to the subject, and must close with a few necessary particulars. For the convenience of those who may need the facts, we tabulate the rates of toll, carriage hire, etc., the latter being the rate fixed by law as permissible. It may be well to add, however, that most of the drivers are willing to make a special rate, considerably lower than those given, and, as previously remarked, this should be expressly agreed upon before starting out, including an understanding as to the payment of the tolls and gate fees.

RATES OF TOLL

Goat Island $ .50
Cave of the Winds 1.00
Prospect Park .25
Inclined Railway .25
Shadow of the Rock 1.00
New Suspension Bridge .25
Ferry .25
Behind Sheet of Water (Table Rock) 1.00
Burning Spring .50
Railway Bridge, over and back .50
Whirlpool Rapids .50
Whirlpool .50

RATES OF FARE ALLOWED BY LAW,

FOR CARRIAGE HIRE WHERE NO EXPRESS CONTRACT IS MADE THEREFOR.

For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from one place to
another in the village, 50 cents.

Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 25 cents.

For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from any point in this
village to any point in the village of Suspension Bridge, 1 dollar.

Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 50 cents.

Each additional piece of baggage other than ordinary baggage, 12
cents.

Children under 3 years of age, free.

Over 3 years and under 14 years, half price.

Ordinary baggage is defined to be 1 trunk and 1 bag, hat or band-box,
or other small parcel.

For carrying one or more passengers, in the same carriage, from any
point in this village to any point within 5 miles of the limits of the
village, at the rate of $1.50 for each hour occupied, except that in
every instance where such carriage shall be drawn by a single horse,
the fare therefor shall be at the rate of 1 dollar for each hour
occupied.

HOTELS.--Although a little out of its natural connection, this subject
seems to demand at least a paragraph. The constant influx of visitors,
especially during the summer months has created a demand for hotel
accommodations at Niagara, which has been met in the erection of such
houses as the Cataract, International, Spencer, Niagara, Kaltenbach,
Goat Island, and a multitude of others, of various grades of
excellence, both at the Falls and Suspension Bridge.

The route to the sea _via_ the St. Lawrence River having become a great favorite with summer tourists, we give in this connection a description of some of its principal attractions. The majestic river, whose channel is the outlet for all the waters of the great chain of inland seas, runs in a general northeasterly direction, from Lake Ontario to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, through a country full of objects of interest to the traveler and sight-seer, and by its navigability becomes the medium by which they may be reached.

Leaving Niagara Falls in the evening, sleeping cars are run, _via_ New York Central, Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, and Utica & Black River Railroads, to Clayton, arriving next morning in time to connect with the palace day steamers of the ST. LAWRENCE STEAMBOAT COMPANY. Should the tourist prefer to make the trip by daylight, he will find the scenery pleasant and attractive. He will thus reach Clayton in the evening, and remain until morning, proceeding as above.

The pleasures of a trip down the St. Lawrence, among the celebrated Thousand Islands, through the foaming rapids, and past the charming villages which lie along the shore, have been the theme of extravagant praise from many a summer tourist, and the constantly increasing popularity of this route is ample evidence that they do not soon grow old. You may usually find among the passengers many who have made the trip several seasons in succession, and the summer resorts of the St. Lawrence are visited by the same tourists year after year, so many and varied are the charms presented.

LAKE OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.

CLAYTON, the steamboat landing of the AMERICAN LINE, is upon the shore of the river where it broadens out among the group of islands of nearly double the number indicated by the name. The trip therefore commences in the midst of beautiful scenery, to continue in a succession of delights and surprises, until its close at the wharf in Montreal. One and a half miles from Clayton is ROUND ISLAND PARK, occupying the island from which it takes its name. A lovelier spot is not to be found. An elegant hotel, numerous cottages, pleasant groves, splendid drives, and a beautiful water-front, are among the features that contribute to its attractiveness, and give promise of making it the resort _par excellence_ among the island gems of this beautiful river. The association controlling the Park, while supposed to be denominational, is by no means sectarian, and the largest freedom is allowed the occupants, untrammeled by the claims or caprices of fashion, such as sometimes destroy all liberty at fashionable resorts.

THE LUXURY OF CAMP-LIFE

Is here enjoyed to its fullest extent. The beautiful groves along the shores of the island, reached by boat or the inland paths and drives, afford delightful camping-places, while the ready communication with the “haunts of civilization” places the conveniences, and even luxuries for those who desire them, within easy reach. Round Island is about a mile in length, and eight hundred to twelve hundred feet wide. Its shape is not correctly indicated by its name, it being more nearly oval than round.

In summing up the attractions of the island, we can do no better than to employ the language of one of its summer residents, who writes as follows:--

What Round Island has NOT: Marshes, mosquitoes, malaria, drinking saloons, accumulated refuse, impure air, impure water.

What Round Island has: The purest and most invigorating air, the clearest and most delicious water, the pleasantest drives, inviting walks, beautiful views, unparalleled scenery, facilities for amusement, accommodations for rest, cleanliness, healthfulness, between thirty and forty cottages, an elegant hotel, fifty-five acres of lawn, a two-mile driving track, bathing houses, and every convenience to make cottage or hotel life charming.

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK.

More widely known, perhaps, than any of the other St. Lawrence resorts, is the great camp-meeting park of the Methodist denomination bearing the above title. It is located at the upper end of Wells Island, and has rapidly grown to large proportions, combining, as it does, the religious, social and pleasure-seeking elements, often united in the same individuals. It has a large village of permanent cottages, which is greatly increased in the summer by the “cotton houses” of those who come for a brief stay, either in attendance upon the religious services or for a short respite from business in camp life. It has a post-office, public buildings, stores, and the conveniences of town life, together with boat houses, landings, dock room, etc., and being in the main channel of the river, it is readily accessible to visitors, as the boats make it one of their important landings.

WESTMINSTER PARK.

The lower portion of Wells Island is also under the control of a religious association, being owned by a regularly chartered society called the Westminster Park Association. With the usual conservatism of people of the “orthodox” faith, there is nothing of the camp-meeting order here, although services are held in Bethune chapel every Sunday during the season. The Park comprises about five hundred acres, occupying an irregular neck of upland, rising in some places to a commanding height, overlooking the scene for miles in extent. Tasteful cottages occupy the building lots into which a large portion of the Park has been divided. An elegant hotel, called the WESTMINSTER, under excellent management, is kept in first-class style, at from two to three dollars per day. Directly opposite from this park, on the New York shore, is

ALEXANDRIA BAY,

Sometimes called the “Saratoga of the St. Lawrence.” As a summer resort, it is fairly entitled to the name, being one of the most popular watering places in America. Its summer hotels are among the most commodious and attractive to be found anywhere, while private cottages and villas have sprung up on every available site, both on the shore, and on all the islands near. The facilities for fishing and boating, combined with the pure and invigorating atmosphere, and the beautiful scenery, attract to the place a tide of summer visitors, ever increasing in volume with each succeeding year. Alexandria Bay is only twelve miles from Clayton, and the approach, by boat, is charming, as the pretty cottages come in view all along the shore, succeeded by the imposing hotel fronts as the harbor is neared. Among the handsome villas, that of the late Dr. J. G. Holland. “Bonnie Castle,” is a conspicuous object, occupying a promontory which projects just below the landing.

THE THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE,

A view of which we herewith present, is one of the finest hotels, both in point of its general arrangements and the natural advantages afforded by its location, to be found at any pleasure resort on the river. It is built on the solid rock, near the steamboat landing, and its windows command an extensive prospect, both up and down the river and across the Bay to Westminster Park. The view is still further expanded by ascending the lofty tower which adorns the center of the structure, rising 160 feet above the foundation, and surmounted with a balcony, affording an outlook of surpassing loveliness and grandeur. The hotel is the largest on the river, and will accommodate 700 guests.

Leaving Alexandria Bay, we are now in the midst of the most fashionable part of the Thousand Island group. The residences are elegant in style of architecture and general appointments, some of them being very costly, their wealthy proprietors having lavished expenditure upon them with unstinted hand. The captain will call many of them by name, the islands having received their titles mostly from their present owners and occupants, and are somewhat fanciful and often appropriate. For instance “Fairy Land” seems a fitting abode for elfin sprites, although equally attractive to humanity. Arcadia, Sport Island, Summerland, Manhattan, Imperial, Welcome, Cozy, Nobby, and a host of other cognomens, have been bestowed upon the charming spots where taste, elegance, and refinement are exhibited, as art has united with nature in making them veritable summer paradises, where, let us hope, no serpent’s trail may mar the happiness of their possessors.

The last of the Thousand Islands are called the Three Sisters, from their resemblance and proximity to each other. They are nearly opposite Brockville on the Canada shore and Morristown on the New York side, the two towns being directly opposite each other, the former the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and the latter of the Utica & Black River Railroad, needing only a bridge, with these islands as resting places for the abutments, to unite the two roads in one continuous line. Brockville, named in honor of General Brock, is called the “Queen City of the St. Lawrence,” and there is something regal in its appearance to warrant the bestowment of the title. Its glittering towers and church spires give an appearance of splendor, which the tourist will observe as a peculiarity of the Canadian cities to be seen in his trip, the metal with which they are covered retaining its brightness in a remarkable degree, owing to the purity and dryness of the atmosphere.

OGDENSBURG AND PRESCOTT.

These two cities, like those last mentioned, are opposite each other, and are both important points. Ogdensburg is the terminus of the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, the Utica & Black River, and Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Railroads, the two former coming from the West and the latter from the East. The city lies on both sides of the Oswegatchie River, at its junction with the St. Lawrence. On account of its beautiful foliage, it has been appropriately entitled Maple City. Its extensive river front, with its railroad facilities, gives it a decided advantage as a grain port. Large elevators and warehouses for the transhipment of grain and other freight from the lake steamers are among the important enterprises of the place.

The direct route to the Adirondacks from Ogdensburg is _via_ the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Railroad, on the line of which is also located the recently discovered but already famous CHATEAUGAY CHASM. As the western section of the all-rail line from Ogdensburg to Portland, this railroad is also assuming considerable importance as a tourist route to the White Mountains and other resorts, and will receive due notice in a separate chapter.

Prescott, on the opposite bank of the St. Lawrence, is connected with Ogdensburg by ferry, the boats being of sufficient capacity to transfer cars, and making regular trips. The railroad interests of this place are concentrated in the Grand Trunk and the St. Lawrence & Ottawa division of the Canadian Pacific.

Massena Landing, where passengers destined for Massena Springs go ashore, is soon passed, and now a perceptible increase is noticeable in the velocity of the current. The interest among the passengers, if it has anywhere been allowed to flag, now becomes re-awakened, as the word goes along the line that the famous

RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE

Will soon add zest to the journey. There are several courses of these rapids, those we are now entering being the Gallopes, which, compared with some of the others, are of but little interest, except as a foretaste of what is to come. Next we enter and pass the Rapid de Plau, and the excitement deepens as the foaming, seething waters just ahead proclaim the approach to the famous Long Sault (pronounced _Soo_). This is the longest of the series, being a continuous descent for nine miles, with the current running at a speed of twenty miles an hour. A canal, eleven miles in length, extends around this rapid, with seven locks, facilitating the descent of such crafts as are unable to cope with the rapids, and also permitting the return of the steamers. Four similar canals are to be met at various places along the river.

At Dickenson’s Landing, just before entering the Long Sault, the passengers are transferred to the “Prince Arthur,” a boat constructed expressly for “shooting the rapids,” which steams out from the landing, with its bow headed toward the angry waters, as if in defiance of their power. The increasing speed, and especially the perceptible descent, soon awaken the interest of the dullest among the passengers, and as the boat lurches to the right or left (or, in nautical phrase, to the starboard, or port), to escape destruction from some ledge which the trusty pilot knows how to avoid, the excitement deepens and increases, and the half hour required for the passage of the Long Sault is crowded full of alternating delight, fear and exhilaration, quickening the pulse and giving zest to the journey, not to be appreciated except by those who experience it.

At the foot of this Rapid, the placid waters of Lake St. Francis are entered, and the contrast between the tranquil surroundings and the tumult and excitement just passed through brings a grateful sense of relief, and the lovely scenery among which the boat now glides for twenty-five miles, is all the more keenly appreciated. The call to dinner, which is served during the passage of this lake, is a welcome one, and the passengers are now ready to descend to the level of things material and substantial, which they find spread in abundance in the dining saloon.

After dinner, and a quiet stroll on deck, a little more experience with rapids is in order. Passing Coteau du Lac, we enter the Coteau Rapids, descending quickly to the Cedars, Split Rock and Cascade Rapids. In passing the Cedars, a peculiar sensation is experienced, as the boat appears to settle down occasionally with great suddenness, as though about to be submerged. This is supposed to be owing to a strong undercurrent which exerts this influence on the boat as she passes from one ledge of rock to another, although they are at a safe distance below her keel. The passage of the Split Rock Rapids seems dangerous, as indeed it would be were the pilot to forget for a moment the grave responsibility of his trust, and fail to swerve the boat at just the right moment to avoid some rock or ledge that threatens destruction to the craft.

Occasionally a raft may be seen in conflict with the rushing waters, apparently at the mercy of the current. The venturesome lumbermen generally manage, however, to “put in an oar” to good advantage in steering clear of the rocks, although not always successful in guiding their frail crafts into quiet waters. An occasional wreck is the result of these ventures, as the scattering logs in the channel attest.

The Cascades are so called from their resemblance to a series of short, leaping falls. Passing the Cascades, we enter upon another broad expanse of water, the river here widening into Lake St. Louis, receiving also the waters of the Ottawa River. This lake is twelve miles long by about six in breadth, and the ride across its quiet waters just precedes the culminating excitement of the trip,--the daring passage of the

FAMOUS LACHINE RAPIDS.

At the head of these Rapids is the pretty little Indian village of Lachine, and here comes aboard our Indian pilot, Baptiste by name, who has piloted the boats through the Lachine Rapids for forty years. These Rapids are the most perilous in all the river’s extent, on account of the devious nature of the channel, and the dangerous rocks which lie just enough below the surface to deceive any but the skillful navigator. The swarthy giant who takes the wheel at this point pays little attention to anything but the duty in hand, and that seems to demand all his energies. Casting alternate glances at him and at the rushing waters ahead of us, we involuntarily breathe the words of the hymn,

“Steady, O pilot, stand firm at the wheel.”

Right in our path lies a ragged rock, which threatens us with instant destruction; but a turn of the wheel at just the right moment sends our good craft a little to the left of it, and the apparent danger is past. With bated breath we watch for the next peril that looms ahead of us, to find it, like its predecessor, vanquished by the strong arm and steady nerve of the man to whom every inch of the channel is as familiar as a beaten path.

Entering once more into quiet waters, we steam on our way toward Montreal, and soon the horizon is marked with the long line of the famous VICTORIA BRIDGE, which rises higher and higher as we approach it, until we glide under it and are soon at the wharf of the American Line, at the close of a day that has been filled with a succession of delights unapproachable in a day’s experience in travel elsewhere on the American Continent.

A tour from the West to the East which did not include a visit to the chief cities of Canada would be indeed incomplete. Hence, in the arrangement of summer excursions, the River St. Lawrence comprising a part of the trip, it is both easy and natural to embrace these points of interest.

MONTREAL is the metropolis of British North America. Its situation, both from a scenic and commercial point of view, renders it attractive to the tourist and prosperous as a business center. Its location is on an island in the St. Lawrence, at the base of Mt. Royal, which gives the city its name. The view of the city from the river, with the mountain in the background is beautiful and impressive, and when this is supplemented by the grand picture exhibited from the summit of the mountain, with the river and the Victoria Bridge in the distance, the observer is ready to exclaim, “Beautiful for situation!”

On arriving in Montreal, whether by boat or rail, the traveler is impressed with the idea that the entire population must indulge in riding, so numerous are the hackmen, or carters, as they are called, to be seen at every hotel, depot and landing. Their easy one or two-horse carriages are at your service for long or short trips, and their prices are very reasonable, being regulated by law. The fare from point to point within the city is twenty-five cents for one or two passengers, and fifty cents for three or four, although the usual custom of the driver is to charge twenty-five cents for each passenger, and collect it if he can. If you go outside the city limits, make a bargain in advance. In fact, there is safety in giving this rule a general application wherever you need the services of a hackman, and thereby always avoiding contention in settlement.

THE HOTELS

Of Montreal are excellent, comprising, among the most elegant, the Ottawa, Windsor, and St. Lawrence Hall. The Albion Hotel has for many years been a great favorite with American tourists, both from the _personnel_ of its management and the reasonableness of its charges. The Montreal House, the American, the Richelieu, and a host of other claimants for patronage, all have their special merits, and are well-spoken of by their visitors.

Sight-seeing, in the city and vicinity, is best accomplished by the employment of a “carter,” who is usually well posted on all the points of interest, and can often entertain his party with sundry legends in connection with them. The most delightful drive, for a single trip, is the

RIDE AROUND MOUNT ROYAL,