Chapter IV: Front Matter (4)

Near Warren, on this line, is MOOSILAUKE, a mountain peak of some celebrity, which from its comparatively isolated position, affords a very fine view from its summit. The town boasts of _fifty miles_ of trout streams, and several excellent hotels provide good accommodations for such as desire to “drop the line,” or spend a season in recreation.

THE PEMIGEWASSET HOUSE, at Plymouth, is the dining station of the B. C. & M. R. R., and has an almost national reputation for the excellence of its cuisine. It is also a favorite summer resort hotel.

The beautiful LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE is reached at Weirs Station and Steamboat Landing. This sheet of water, irregular in its boundaries, studded with hundreds of islands, and bordered by some of the finest scenery in the world, has obtained almost a world-wide fame, being visited by thousands of tourists every season. Weirs Station is on the western shore; and within a few years has become celebrated as the location of a permanent camp-ground, occupied in turns by the Methodists, the Unitarians, and the Grand Army of the Republic. Several hotels and summer boarding houses have been built to accommodate the increasing demands of tourists who wish to tarry by the margin of the lake, and enjoy its lovely scenery, and bathe and fish in its waters, or ride over its surface among its myriad islands. Center Harbor, on its north shore, Wolfboro on the east, and Alton Bay on the south, are all well-known summer resorts, and the ride between these points by steamer constitutes a delightful trip. Two boats of considerable size, the “Lady of the Lake,” owned by the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, and the “Mount Washington,” the property of the Boston & Maine Railroad, together with several smaller craft, constitute the flotilla; and their frequent trips among the islands and between the principal ports just mentioned afford opportunity to enjoy the attractions of Winnipesaukee, and to realize the significance of its Indian title, which is translated “Smile of the Great Spirit.”

The “Weirs” takes its name from having formerly been the location of the fish-weirs of the aborigines, whence an unlimited supply of food was drawn, in the days before the shriek of the locomotive, or even the crack of the stage-driver’s whip, broke the stillness of the adjacent forests.

From Weirs Station the route to Boston is _via_ Concord, Manchester, Nashua, and Lowell.

_White Mountain Notch._

The route from Fabyan House to Portland extends through this famous pass, over the PORTLAND & OGDENSBURG RAILROAD; and the ride is one of the most delightful trips by rail to be afforded east of the Rocky Mountains, and with the exception of the ascent to the summit of Mount Washington, is the grandest and most impressive. The railway itself is a wonder, overcoming, in its construction, obstacles that might appall the stoutest-hearted engineer. Running here upon a lofty trestle, clinging now to the side of a mountain, winding around the base of some overhanging cliff, again bridging some mountain stream far above its bed, it threads its devious way through the pass, abolishing the fatigue and hardship incident to mountain visiting, and affording a panoramic view of scenery unsurpassed for variety, novelty and grandeur.

The trip through the Notch is made in OBSERVATION CARS, which are attached to all trains. These are open at the sides, and provided with revolving arm chairs, thus affording an outlook in all directions, adding materially to the pleasure of the journey. The first five miles accomplished, and we are at

THE CRAWFORD HOUSE,

Almost in the very gates of the Notch, near its upper entrance. Either in going or returning, this will be found a desirable stopping place, as there are many points of interest in this vicinity. The hotel itself is spacious and elegant, accommodating 500 guests. In the days of mountain-climbing by “brute force,” it was the starting point of the bridle path to the summit of Mount Washington; but the hardy mountain ponies, trusty and sure-footed, have given way to the “iron horse,” no less trusty, but vastly less romantic.

Saco Lake, near the house, is the source of Saco River, here a diminutive stream, but increasing in volume on its way to the sea, as it absorbs the brooklets and rivulets, until it is utilized in turning the busy wheels of industrious machinery in many a factory before it is lost in the Atlantic.

GIBBS’ FALLS, also near the hotel, are forty feet in height, divided by a rocky cliff into two parts. They were named in honor of a former landlord of the house.

BEECHER’S CASCADE, a half mile distant, may have had some other name, but it is now lost in the distinction given it by a baptism experienced by the eminent divine, not according to the method of Plymouth Church, but more after the Roger Williams standard, and wholly involuntary.

MOUNT WILLARD, sometimes called Mount Tom, or Tom Willard, although not of great altitude, furnishes an excellent point of observation from its summit, which is reached by a comfortable carriage ride. The view is highly praised by good judges, Anthony Trollope declaring it unequaled in all the classic Rhineland. Standing at the very gate of the Notch, it commands an excellent view of the chasm, and the different mountains which encompass it, together with a splendid prospect to the west and north.

SILVER CASCADE and the FLUME CASCADE are two of the attractions of the locality, which leap down the sides of Mount Webster in glorious disorder, now spreading out over a rocky bed in a thin sheet of silver, gathering again in some pool for a plunge over a precipice, breaking into spray in the descent, then running swiftly in a narrow channel as if gathering momentum for another grand leap, and so laughing, singing and dancing on its way, to join the Saco in its noisy pilgrimage to the sea.

THE WILLEY HOUSE, memorable as the scene of the disaster known in history as the “Willey Slide,” is located under the steep acclivity of Mount Willey, which rises some 2,000 feet above the house. Opposite are the frowning cliffs of Mount Webster, with the Saco River flowing near. The story of the fearful calamity is familiar, but its repetition may be of interest to our readers. On the night of August 28, 1826, a terrible storm occurred, swelling the brooklets into angry torrents, and loosening the soil from its hold on the rocky acclivity of Mount Willey, sending it down the mountain side with a fearful roar, threatening destruction to everything in its path. Mr. Willey, his wife, five children, and two hired men, comprised the inmates of the house; and it is supposed that they became frightened and fled from the house to escape the peril, and rushed into the very jaws of death, being overwhelmed in the avalanche, not one escaping to tell the tale. The faithful house-dog, however, appeared at Conway, and endeavored to give intelligence of what had happened by all the resources of his power of communication. The bodies of six of the victims were recovered, but three of the children found permanent burial in the _debris_. The saddest feature of the calamity is the fact that had they remained in the house no harm would have befallen them, as a large rock at the back of the house divided the slide, and sent it by on either side, leaving the building untouched. The scarred side of the mountain still shows the track of the avalanche, only enough soil being left to support a growth of white birches.

AVALANCHE BROOK, so called from being regarded as the cause of the disaster, has on it a beautiful cataract, called the SYLVAN GLADE CATARACT, and higher up, another called SPARKLING CASCADE.

Such of the forgoing objects of interest as are visible from the train are pointed out by the conductor and trainmen, and an occasional halt is made to permit of a longer view of some point of special importance. If time will permit, it is well to stop off at one or more of the stations, and proceed by following trains. But whether this be your privilege or not, the ride will be one not soon forgotten, and its repetition desired and longed for.

Below Willey Mountain the valley opens out into a wider expanse, and the scenery becomes less wild and romantic, but none the less beautiful with the change. The Willey-Brook Bridge is a fine specimen of engineering skill, and is crossed by the train, giving the courageous passengers a chance to peer into the deep gulf which it spans, and the timid ones occasion to “hold their breath” at the thought of a possible tumble, should “anything happen.” The bridge, however, gives no occasion for fear, as it is of enormous strength, although not ponderous in appearance.

A short distance below this point, the train crosses the famous FRANKENSTEIN TRESTLE, an iron structure five hundred feet long and eighty feet high. Near this are the GIANT’S STAIRS, MOUNT RESOLUTION and MOUNT CRAWFORD, the latter nearly opposite Bemis Station. Near here is the old Mount Crawford House, now closed, where Abel Crawford, the pioneer for whom the Mountain and Notch were named, “kept tavern” for many years, and told stories and legends of the mountains to his guests, and, on occasion, piloted them to the haunts of the shy trout, or to mountain summits, by paths long forgotten. His son, Ethan Allen Crawford, cut the first bridle path to Mount Washington, in 1821.

NANCY’S BROOK is soon reached and crossed, so named from a sad incident involving the old story of a deserted maiden, and a recreant lover who fled on the eve of the appointed wedding day, pursued by the poor girl, who perished from exposure, and was found in the snow at the foot of a tree, near the margin of the stream which now bears the name her mother gave her, a kindly way of commemorating the event without involving the family name.

SAWYER’S RIVER is crossed, as the road turns sharply to the eastward, and at Upper Bartlett the interesting landmark known as SAWYER’S ROCK commemorates the discovery of this pass, or rather the accomplishment of an event which attested its discovery, viz., getting a horse through the Notch, for which feat, as an evidence of the existence of the pass, Nash, the discoverer, and a brother hunter, received from Governor Wentworth a grant of land known as Nash & Sawyer’s Location. The last obstacle being this rock, the poor beast was let down over it by means of ropes, and Sawyer exultingly dashed his rum bottle against it, which sufficed to christen it by the name it now bears.

At GLEN STATION, connection is made with the stage line for the Glen House up the valley of Ellis River and through Pinkham Notch. Should the traveler feel disposed to make this trip, he will find much to reward him in the way of picturesque scenery, pleasant drives, etc. At a short distance from the road where it crosses Ellis River, a fine waterfall, known as GOODRICH FALLS may be seen. Passing the little village of “Jackson City,” the road soon enters the pass known as PINKHAM NOTCH, named from a family of early settlers, who constructed the Notch road.

GLEN-ELLIS FALL may be reached by a path diverging from the stage road. The Ellis River here descends a precipice seventy feet high. From its configuration it was formerly called “Pitcher Fall,” but the more poetic but less descriptive title seems to cling to it.

THE GLEN HOUSE,

Previously mentioned as a fine hostelry, is the terminus of the stage line. Here you will meet guests who have come by stage from Gorham, eight miles distant, on the Grand Trunk Railway, or from the summit of Mount Washington, by the carriage road already described. This location is more than sixteen hundred feet above sea-level, and the clear, bracing atmosphere, the magnificent scenery, and the delightful drives in several directions, together with the excellent manner in which the hotel is kept, are sufficient to account for its popularity and success. In the matter of stage-line management, it probably has no superior in the world, that which conveys the passengers up the carriage road to the summit of Mount Washington being notably superior in point of equipment, and the well-known skill of its drivers.

Excursions may be made from here to the Carter Notch, Osgood’s Cascades, Summit of Mount Madison, Garnet Pools, Emerald Pool, Thompson’s Falls, Glen-Ellis Falls, Crystal Cascade, Tuckerman’s Ravine, and many other places of more than ordinary interest.

But again taking up our line of travel at Glen Station, the train soon emerges upon the beautiful CONWAY INTERVALES, Intervale Station being the next stopping place. The Intervale House, near by, is a pleasant abode for those who choose to tarry. A short distance beyond is NORTH CONWAY, a village of multitudinous attractions, and with a popularity as a summer resort that is surprising to the casual visitor, who, although seeing much to admire, fails to comprehend the peculiar combinations which bring people year after year to spend their summers in the vicinity. Superficially, the most attractive objects conspicuously visible are the hotels. The spacious KIARSARGE HOUSE seems a veritable paradise for the traveler, and its tables are unexcelled. The views from its verandahs are superior, comprising the mountain ranges, the famous Pequaket or Kiarsarge Mountain, and the lovely Intervales, upon which the village is situated. The mountain from which the hotel receives its name is about three miles from the village, and the ascent may be made in the saddle or on foot. The altitude is 3,367 feet, and the view from the summit comprises the entire White Mountain Range, together with Mote Mountain, Rattlesnake Ridge, Sebago Lake with other bodies of water of less magnitude, and a stretch of landscape in every direction most pleasing to the eye, less grand and rugged, to be sure, than that we have been describing, but on that account more restful to the senses.

The other attractions at North Conway consist of Artist’s Falls, Echo Lake, the Cathedral and Ledges, Diana’s Baths, the Devil’s Den, and a host of lovely drives in various directions, with sylvan paths for pedestrianism _ad libitum_.

CONWAY CENTER, five miles southeast of North Conway, is the next station, and has many charms as a summer resort. Mount Chocorua, with a sharp pinnacle, towering up 3,540 feet above sea-level, is reached from here to good advantage, as is also Walker Pond, a short distance south of the town.

We are now in the “smiling valley” of the Saco River, in the midst of cultivated farms and peaceful villages, in striking contrast with the scenery just left behind. Crossing the boundary line between New Hampshire and Maine, our next station is FRYEBURG, which some poetic writer has called the “Queen of the Saco Valley.” It is indeed a lovely town, embowered in deep foliage, and affording the visitor most delightful drives. Jockey Cap, a huge granite pile, is near the village; and close by is Lovewell’s Pond, the scene of an Indian battle in 1725. Mount Pleasant is only seven miles distant, and has upon its summit a fine hotel.

Passing in quick succession the stations of Brownfield, Hiram, the three Baldwins, and Steep Falls, we reach

SEBAGO LAKE,

Seventeen miles from Portland, and forty-three from North Conway. For a short distance before reaching the lake, the run is devoid of interest and exceedingly tame; but as the road skirts the shores of this beautiful sheet of water, and its broad expanse stretches away in the distance, bounded by wooded shores and sandy beaches, the change is magical, and the contrast a most pleasing one. Sebago itself is twelve miles long and nine miles wide, and is connected with Long Pond by means of Songo River and the “Bay of Naples,” formerly “Brandy Pond,”--before the days of the “Maine law.” The entire chain of lakes, river and bay affords a steamboat ride of sixty-eight miles in the round trip. Bridgton, one of the steamer-landings on Long Pond, is the birth-place of the genial humorist “Artemus Ward.” From Portland, a pleasant and popular trip consists of a ride to Sebago by the morning train, a trip over the lake to Bridgton, returning in time for the evening train to Portland.

And thither, in the continuation of our excursion, we too must go. Only seventeen miles more of our long and delightful journey “from Chicago to the Sea” remain to be traversed. Almost regretfully we linger over the few last leagues of the trip, but remembering that either way from Portland our excursion may be lengthened indefinitely, we resume our seats in the train, and in fifty minutes are in

THE METROPOLIS OF MAINE.

PORTLAND is pleasantly situated on a narrow peninsula projecting from the west shore of Casco Bay. This peninsula is about three miles in length from east to west, with considerable elevations at each end, giving the city a beautiful appearance as approached from the sea. Its harbor is one of the best on the Atlantic coast, being deep and capacious, and protected by land on all sides. The city is beautifully laid out, its public buildings are fine, and many of its private residences elegant.

The commercial and business interests of the city are extensive and important, the value of the shipping owned in the district being very great, and its manufactures employing a large amount of capital. The railroads centering here are the Portland & Ogdensburg, Portland & Rochester, Boston & Maine, Eastern, Maine Central, and Grand Trunk.

The leading hotels of Portland are the Falmouth, United States, Preble, City, Kirkland, and Merchants.

The climate of Portland is remarkably salubrious, the city being peculiarly exempt from epidemics, or climatic diseases of any kind. The source of water supply (Sebago Lake), and the excellent facilities for drainage, undoubtedly contribute much to the healthfulness of the locality. These circumstances, together with the proximity of beaches and other resorts, render Portland a desirable place for summer sojourning, a fact of which no little advantage is taken in the season of travel. The steamship lines running from Portland to eastern ports along the coast of Maine and the maritime provinces, afford the tourist opportunities to extend his trip “away down East,” as far as time and inclination will permit. One resort of special interest deserves mention while this subject is under consideration, on account of its remarkable attractiveness, and its increasing popularity.

MOUNT DESERT ISLAND,

One hundred and ten miles northeast from Portland, is reached by the PORTLAND, BANGOR AND MACHIAS STEAMBOAT LINE, whose boats make connection with the trains from Boston and the White Mountains. They are staunch and seaworthy, and finely equipped; and the trip along the shore, past the thrifty villages, and among the picturesque scenery, is full of delights.

The island of Mount Desert lies quite near the mainland, with which communication is had by means of a bridge which crosses at Trenton. In shape, the island is quite irregular, and is about eighteen miles long by twelve wide. It is nearly divided in two by Somes Sound, and its shores on all sides are indented by picturesque bays and inlets. The greater part of its surface is covered with mountain peaks, some thirteen in number, the highest, Mt. Green, rising fully two thousand feet above the sea. High up among these peaks are several beautiful lakes, which, with the streams that flow from them, abound in trout.

The first landing point, approaching from Portland, is SOUTHWEST HARBOR. Here are several excellent hotels, and the scenery in the vicinity, and accessible by pleasant carriage drives, is beautiful and picturesque. Green Mountain is reached from this point to good advantage by the westerly slope, a carriage road leading to the summit, where a hotel is located.

BAR HARBOR, fifteen miles beyond Southwest Harbor, is even more picturesque and romantic in its location than the latter. The scenery along the coast is bold and impressive, stupendous cliffs rising abruptly to the height of several hundred feet. Bar Harbor is plentifully supplied with hotels, and their facilities are often utilized by the throngs of artists and pleasure-seekers who make summer pilgrimages in search of the beautiful, the art galleries and studios of the country testifying to the success of the former in transferring to canvas the gems of scenery which have formed the basis of so many studies and afforded so much delight.

In addition to the many “down-east” trips that may be made from Portland, its nearness to some of the fine beaches of the Atlantic coast is another of its attractions as an objective point for the tourist. Two great railway lines connect Portland with Boston, and one or both of them reach all the principal intervening seaside resorts.

One of the most noted of these is

OLD ORCHARD BEACH.

This celebrated seaside camp-ground,--for as a place for temperance and religious camp-meetings it is best known,--is reached by the BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD, extensively advertised by its managers as the “shore route” between Boston and Portland. And it may not be amiss to say, in this connection, that it is really one of the finest equipped and best managed railroads in the country. Its general superintendent, Mr. J. T. Furber, is one of the successful railroad managers of New England, a tireless worker, looking after every detail of the road and its operation, with a degree of energy and “push” that marks the successful business man wherever you meet him in Yankeedom.

Old Orchard not only has a vast expanse of beautiful beach, but possesses the additional charm of woodland parks and groves, hundreds of acres in extent, stretching away from the shore, enclosing cool retreats and shady paths, where the forest has been left almost in its primeval state. This happy combination of “woods and seashore” in one locality, affording a pleasing variety and gratifying the tastes of all, is one secret of the great popularity of this resort. The splendid hotel, so conspicuous in the background of our illustration, is kept in a style to please the most fastidious, it being the leading hotel of this vicinity. The less pretentious house in the foreground is a great favorite with many visitors, not only for its home-like air, but for the beautiful views to be had from its verandahs and the charming walks and drives in the vicinity. Its patrons speak of it in terms of the highest commendation.

WELLS BEACH and KENNEBUNKPORT are also reached by the Boston & Maine Railroad, and are among the long list of popular resorts on the eastern coast. The latter has an elegant hotel, the “Ocean Bluff,” which commands a beautiful view of ocean and landscape combined.

At Dover, on the main line to Boston, connection is made with the Winnipesaukee division to ALTON BAY, a celebrated summer and camp-ground resort, at the head of the bay, which is an arm of the beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee, extending in a southerly direction. The steamer MOUNT WASHINGTON makes frequent trips from this point to Wolfboro and Center Harbor, from either of which places connection is made for the Weirs, on the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, by steamer “Lady of the Lake.”

The EASTERN RAILROAD, the other through line between Portland and Boston, reaches several of the beaches already mentioned, and is the direct route to HAMPTON and RYE BEACHES, BOAR’S HEAD, and and REVERE BEACH, the latter sustaining the same relation to Boston as does Coney Island to New York.

THE ISLES OF SHOALS, nine miles off Portsmouth harbor, are also reached by the Eastern Railroad to Portsmouth, thence by steamer to Appledore and Star Islands, where two palace hotels, the APPLEDORE, on the island of the same name, and the OCEANIC on Star Island, are kept in regal style by Laighton Brothers & Co. The group comprises nine islands, the largest of which is Appledore. It is also the best known, having been for many years the favorite summer home of many of the prominent literary people of New England. It is the residence of Mrs. Celia (Laighton) Thaxter, whose pleasing poems have gratified so many readers; and her childhood was spent in this lovely spot, the very air of which is full of poetic inspiration.

White Island is the location of a light-house which the readers of the _Atlantic Monthly_ will remember as the scene of many of the pleasing incidents in Mrs. Thaxter’s “Child Life at the Isles of Shoals.”

IN RETURNING FROM THE SEA,

The excursionist may traverse again the route through the mountains,--and some portions of it are well worthy of a second visit, or by a different route may reach the St. Lawrence River, and find new objects and scenes to claim his attention. Should the latter be his choice, he may take the train of the Concord & Portsmouth Railroad, at Portsmouth, and go _via_ Manchester, Concord, White River Junction and St. Albans to Ogdensburg or Montreal, thence homeward by the St. Lawrence River, or the rail route, as preferred.

Many, however, will wish to see Boston or New York; and a pleasant trip, comprising a visit to these two cities, may be made by boat or rail from Portland to Boston, thence by Long Island Sound to New York. The Sound Steamer Lines are four in number, all of them having an initial stage by rail to some point on the Sound where connection is made with the boats.

THE FALL RIVER LINE comprises a trip by rail from Boston to Fall River, forty-nine miles, there transferring to one of the floating palaces, the “Bristol,” the “Providence,” or the new and elegant “Pilgrim,” the latter being conceded to be the finest boat on the Sound. J. R. Kendrick, Esq., is the general manager of this line, with headquarters at Boston, and Geo. L. Connor is the general passenger agent, located in New York.

THE STONINGTON LINE has for its inception the rail route to Stonington, Connecticut, _via_ Providence, where connection is made with the elegant steamers, “Massachusetts” and “Rhode Island.” This route has more of rail and less of water than the preceding, and avoids the “outside” passage around Point Judith, a consideration that has its weight with the timid and sensitive.

THE PROVIDENCE LINE is under the same management as that of the foregoing, and comprises a rail trip to Providence, and boat from there to New York, the steamers “Stonington” and “Narragansett” being employed on this line.

THE NORWICH LINE has for its beginning a rail trip to New London, thence by steamer to New York.

The start from Boston is in the early evening, the arrival at the various boat landings being in ample season for “bed-time,” and the trip through the Sound is a night ride, arriving in New York in season to connect with morning trains if desired. The passengers who arise in moderately good season will enjoy the latter portion of the ride, as the boat enters the famous passage known as “Hell Gate,” passes down the East River in view of the islands on which are located the various reformatory, penal, and charitable institutions of New York City, continuing between the cities of New York and Brooklyn, under the famous suspension bridge, and around the Battery and Castle Garden into the North River. The shipping in the harbor, the sprightly tugs steaming here and there, the ferry boats plying between Long Island and New York, and the ceaseless activity and bustle of all things animate, all combine to give to the scene an air of life and vigor so characteristic of all that pertains to the great metropolis of America.

The sights and scenes of the city itself are so numerous and varied that the pen falters at the thought of even attempting to mention them. If the reader has a desire to “do” the city in a systematic and thorough manner, he should secure the company of some one familiar with its customs and its places of interest, or consult the pages of some city guide book.

FROM NEW YORK TO THE WEST.

The return to the West from New York City may be made by several different routes, at the option of the tourist. THE NEW YORK CENTRAL AND HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD affords a pleasant ride up the Hudson River, among its beautiful scenery to Albany, thence across the State to Suspension Bridge or Buffalo. The new WEST SHORE line, by a nearly parallel route, traverses the other side of the Hudson, and will soon be completed for through travel. The trip up the Hudson by boat is also a favorite in the summer season, as affording the finest views of the points of interest that have given to this river the title of the “Rhine of America.”

For picturesque scenery, no route can be regarded as equal to the NEW YORK, LAKE ERIE AND WESTERN, familiarly known as the “Erie Line.” Crossing the ferry to Jersey City, the passenger by this line finds the trains of this road awaiting at the station, with through cars attached for Buffalo, Rochester, and the principal Western points. Leaving Jersey City by the morning train, the tourist will find that the day’s ride among the picturesque mountain, river, and lake scenery all along the line will be one of great interest and enjoyment. The courtesy and urbanity of the trainmen and conductors are especially noticeable, and the eating houses, at which ample time is given for meals, are among the best railroad restaurants it is the privilege of the traveler to visit.

Connection is made at Buffalo with the Canada Southern division of the Michigan Central, from which point the return may be made _via_ Detroit, to the starting point of the journey.

BOSTON TO THE WEST.

The return trip from Boston, omitting the visit to New York, may be made very direct, should the tourist so elect. The short line from Boston, and on many accounts a very pleasant one, is _via_ the celebrated HOOSAC TUNNEL, comprising the Fitchburg Railroad to North Adams, and the Troy & Boston Railroad to Troy, thence _via_ the New York Central to Suspension Bridge or Buffalo. This route presents the advantages of through sleeping coaches from Boston to Chicago, without change, a most desirable feature for families or for ladies traveling alone.

The line takes its name from the wonderful tunnel through Hoosac Mountain, which opens a roadway for the locomotive directly across the State of Massachusetts. This immense engineering enterprise was begun in 1862, on the supposition that the internal structure of the mountain would be found of a character to admit of easy excavation. The undertaking proved, however, that its projectors had been misled by the geologists, and solid rock was the substance to be removed for the greater part of nearly five miles. At an immense cost, the excavation was carried on, and in 1875 was open for the passage of trains, and later was perfected by arches of masonry where strengthening was necessary.

The equipment of the “Tunnel Line” is complete and in all respects first class. The starting point in Boston is from the depot of the Fitchburg Railroad, of which John Adams, Esq., is the genial and popular superintendent. The Western office of the line is in Chicago, at 135 Randolph Street, in charge of C. E. Lambert, Esq., the general Western passenger agent.

The return from Boston may also be made by way of Springfield and Albany, by the Boston & Albany Railroad, thence by the New York Central to Buffalo or Suspension Bridge.

And now, having taken the reader, in imagination, from his home in the West to the Atlantic seaboard, through some of the most delightful scenery on the American Continent, and indicated a variety of routes by which he may return, with a few closing words the duty of the writer will be done. Possibly no one traveler or party will traverse all the routes described in this work. In some cases we have indicated that choice may be made of several methods of reaching a given point, and the taste or preference of the tourist, or the convenience of a party traveling in company, will often decide the route. We have endeavored to give fair and impartial description of the attractions offered by the various lines of travel,--often too painfully conscious of the inadequacy of words to do justice to the subject considered,--and leave the reader to choose for himself a route from among the variety set forth.

Before closing, we will add that a large variety of excursion tickets will be found on sale at the principal ticket offices of the Michigan Central Railroad, from which a selection can be made in accordance with your taste or preferences. If the perusal of this work has assisted in deciding your route, you will probably be able to secure a ticket through to the sea to accommodate your wishes. By a very convenient arrangement, your choice of a portion of the route may be left until arriving at the St. Lawrence River, when the purser of the steamer will exchange your ticket, giving opportunity to select from a variety of excursions, with added side trips to various points of interest.

And now, with a consciousness of its many imperfections, we bring this work to a close, and take a regretful leave of the reader, with the hope that the pages of the book may prove serviceable in making enjoyable the journey of many a tourist

_=From Chicago to the Sea.=_

CONTENTS.

Adirondacks, 73
Alexandria Bay, 49
American Fall, Niagara, 20, 24
Approach to North Conway, P. & O. R. R., 113
Ascent of Mount Washington, 83
Bar Harbor, Mt. Desert, 118
Bethlehem, N. H., 81
Biddle’s Stairs, Niagara, 31
Burning Spring, Niagara, 42
Canada Southern Railway, 17
Canadian Carryall, 56
Canadian Fall, 33
Cape Diamond, Quebec, 64
Capes Eternity and Trinity, 71
Cave of the Winds, Niagara, 31
Chateaugay Chasm, O. & L. C. R. R., 74
City of Buffalo, 17
City of Portland, Maine, 116
Climbing Mount Jefferson, 90
Conway Center, N. H., 114
Crawford House, 106
Crossing the Ferry, Detroit, 16
Detroit, the City of the Strait, 15
Devil’s Hole, Niagara, 43
Dining Car System, 9
Distant view of Mt. Washington, 91
“Down” vs. “Up,”--Rapids and Canal, 54
Eagle Cliff, 98
Eastward Ho! 5
Electric Illumination, Niagara, 29
Fabyan House, White Mountains, 83
Fail River Line, Boston and New York, 122
Falls of Montmorenci, 67
Falls of Niagara, 18
Fast New York Express, 8
Father Hennepin’s Sketch of Niagara, 36
Flume and Boulder, Franconia Notch, 101
First View of Niagara Falls, 23
Franconia Mountains, 100
Franconia Notch, 97
French Canadian Home, 67
Gates of Quebec, two views, 66
Glen-Ellis Fall, 112
Glen House Stage Line, 95
Glen House, White Mountains, 113
Goat Island, Niagara, 29
Goat Island Bridge, 30
Grand Island, Niagara, 35
“Gulf of Mexico,” 86
Ha-Ha Bay, 71
Hermit’s Pool, 108
Hoosac Tunnel Line, 123
Horseshoe Falls and Rapids, 22
Inclined Plane Railway, Niagara, 28
Indian Curiosity Seller, 72
Isles of Shoals, 121
Kiarsarge House, 114
Kiarsarge Mountain, 115
Lachine Rapids, 55
Lake of the Thousand Islands, 45
Lake Winnipesaukee, 103, 105
Lizzie Bourne Monument, 87
Luna Island, Niagara, 31
Lundy’s Lane Battle Field, 43
Luxury of Camp Life, 47
Medical and Surgical Sanitarium, 11
Michigan Central Railroad, 7
Michigan State Normal School, 15
Michigan State University, 14
Montreal and Quebec, 57
Montreal from Mount Royal Park, 59
Montreal from the River, 58
Mount Desert Island, 117
Mount Garfield, 94
Mount Lafayette, 97, 100
Mount Moosilauke, 103
Mount Washington Carriage Road, 95
Mount Washington Railway, 85
Mount Washington Summit House, 87
Mount Willard, 106
Mounts Adams and Madison, 89
Navy Island, Niagara, 35
New Suspension Bridge, 26
New York to the West, 122
Niagara Falls, 18
Niagara Falls from the Ferry, 27
Niagara Falls, Ontario, 24
Ogdensburg and Prescott, 51
Ogdensburg to Portland, 73
Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Railroad, 73
Old Man of the Mountain, 97, 99
Old Orchard Beach, 119
Pemigewasset House, B. C. & M. R. R., 104
Presidential Range, White Mountains, 81
Profile House, Franconia Notch, 96
Prospect Park, 27
Quebec, 61-63
Rafts in the St. Lawrence Rapids, 55
Rates of Toll, etc., Niagara, 44
Retrocession of the Falls, Niagara, 37
Returning from the Seashore, 121
Ride Around Mount Royal, 59
Round Island House, 48
Round Island Park, 47
Saguenay River, 69
Scenes on the P. & O. Railroad, 110
Sebago Lake, 115
Silver Cascade, 108
Sinclair House, Bethlehem, 82
Steamer Rothesay, American Line, 46
St. Johnsbury & Lake Champlain Railroad, 78
St. Lawrence River, 45
Summer Travel, 6
Sunrise on Mount Washington, 91
Suspension Bridge, 39
Table Rock, Niagara, 25
Tadousac, 70
Terrapin Bridge and Rock, 33
Terrapin Tower, 34
Thousand Island House, 49
Thousand Island Park, 48
Three Sister Islands, Niagara, 34
Tip-Top House in Winter, 93
“Tricks that are Vain,” 22
Tuckerman’s Ravine, Mount Washington, 95
Under the Cataract, 32
Valley of the Saco River, 111
Watching for Sunrise, 92
Weirs Station and Steamboat Landing, 102
Westminster Park, 49
Whirlpool Rapids, Niagara, 41
White Mountain Notch, 106
White Mountains, 79
White Mountains, from Jefferson, 90
Willey House, 109
Wolfe’s New Monument, 65
Wolfe’s Old Monument, 64

Only All Rail Route to the Thousand Islands.

THE

Utica & Black River Railroad,

POPULARLY KNOWN AS THE THE

_Elegant Line to the Islands_.

This Line runs _via_ Utica, Trenton Falls, the Sunset Slope of the Adirondack Mountains, Black River, Sugar River, and Indian River to the Thousand Islands of the River St. Lawrence. It is the only scenic route.

NEW FAST TRAINS, MAKE VERY FEW STOPS,

and carry elegant Through Cars from Utica to the River St. Lawrence.

_THOUSAND ISLAND FAST LINE_

Leaves Chicago 9.00 a. m., arrives at Utica 11.25 a. m. (dinner),
leaves Utica 12.10 p. m., arrives Trenton Falls 12.45 p. m., Clayton,
4.05 p. m. Immediate connection with Steamboat for Round Island,
Thousand Island Park, and Westminster Park, arrives Alexandria Bay
5.10 p. m.

=Wagner Cars from Chicago to Utica and Utica to Clayton.=

_EVENING FAST LINE_

Leaves Chicago 3.30 p. m., arrives Utica 2.00 p. m. (dinner), leaves
Utica 4.50 p. m., arrives at Trenton Falls 5.25 p. m., Lowville 7.00
p. m. (supper), Clayton 9.05 p. m., Alexandria Bay 10.10 p. m.

=Wagner Cars from Chicago to Utica: New Springfield Coaches
from Utica to Clayton. A Quick, Cool, and Pleasant
Journey. Union Depot at Utica. No Transfers.
A First Class Steel Rail Line.=

The Illustrated Book of Routes and Rates for Summer Tours, 100 pages with Illustrations, Maps, and Cost of 300 different tours _via_ Thousand Islands and Rapids, Montreal, etc., etc. Send two postage stamps for a copy, before deciding on your summer trip. Through Tickets _via_ Utica are on sale at all Ticket offices of the Michigan Central Railroad and Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railway. If you are unable to get Through Tickets _via_ this route, buy to Utica only.

J. F. MAYNARD, THEO. BUTTERFIELD,
General Superintendent. Gen’l Pas. Agent, UTICA, N. Y.

The Best Equipped Railroad in the World.

Without exaggerating, and keeping close within the narrow limits of
fact, it may be asserted without fear of truthful contradiction, that
the

CHICAGO & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY

Is not only the best and most perfectly equipped railroad in the
world, but it is also the most important as to the territory it
traverses, the numerous business centers and pleasure resorts that it
reaches, and the facilities it offers for pleasant, speedy, safe and
comfortable transit for all classes of passengers. It caters alike to
the needs, tastes and abilities of the millionaire merchant prince; to
the farmer, with his plain and simple wants; and to the economical and
necessitous; and gives to each the full value of all he pays for. Its
luxuriantly finished and furnished palace sleeping cars, and its more
than luxurious drawing-room coaches are marvels of beauty and comfort.
Its coaches are new and of the most perfect models that have been
adopted by any company, and they are always kept sweet, clean and
pure. Its dining cars are superb, and the meals and service provided
in them are equal to that given by any first-class hotel in the
country.

WHERE IS IT?

Starting from Chicago and having various main lines running west,
north-west, and north, it covers about all that is desirable in
Northern Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, the upper Michigan peninsula,
Minnesota and Central and South-eastern Dakota and North-eastern
Nebraska.

It is eminently _the_ railroad of the north-west; and from its
commanding location, it controls the traffic of all of the territory
it traverses.

WHAT IS IT?

Over 5,000 miles of the best built and best maintained railroad there
is in the country. It is equal in every respect to any road in the
world, and is believed to be better than any of its competitors. Its
lines are built of heavy steel rail; its bridges are of steel, iron,
and stone, and all its appointments are as good as money can buy.

COLORADO & CALIFORNIA.

This Company’s line between Chicago and Council Bluffs (Omaha) is shorter than any other between these points, and was the pioneer in forming connection with the Trans-Continental Union and Central Pacific Railroads. Nearly all experienced overland travelers seek this line, because it is known to be the best, shortest, most comfortable, and in every way the most desirable. To seek other more circuitous and inferior routes is accepted as an evidence of inexperience or want of information.

If you are destined to or from Colorado, Nebraska, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington Territory, China, Japan, the Sandwich Islands, New Zealand or Australia, you should, in making the trip between Chicago and Council Bluffs (Omaha), in either direction, see that your tickets read over this great road.

ST. PAUL, MINNEAPOLIS & WINNIPEG.

This road, “St. Paul Line,” is the short and desirable route between Chicago and Madison, St. Paul and Minneapolis, and the best to travel over if you are destined to or from Chicago and any point north or north-west of St. Paul, Winona and Mankato, Minn.: Frankfort, Huron, Pierre, Aberdeen, Columbia and Watertown, Dakota; Milwaukee, Fond du Lac, Oshkosh, Watertown and Sheboygan, Wis.; Freeport, Elgin, Dixon and Fulton, Ill.; Clinton, Cedar Rapids, Des Moines, Webster City, Algona, Tama and Council Bluffs, Iowa, are a few of its hundreds of prominent local stations. It reaches most of the pleasant summer resorts of Wisconsin and Minnesota, and is the road to take for the health and scenic resorts of the Rocky Mountains, the National Yellowstone Park, and nearly all of the notable western and north-west resorts that are accessible by rail.

It connects in Union Depots with the Union Pacific Railway at Council Bluffs, and at St. Paul with all roads diverging from that point.

Yon can procure tickets over this route from nearly every coupon ticket agent in the country. When buying your tickets, read them carefully, and be sure that at least one coupon reads over the CHICAGO & NORTH-WESTERN RY. Ask your nearest coupon ticket agent for one of its large maps; they are FREE, and will show you all of this Company’s lines as they are.

FOR COMFORT, SAFETY AND SCENERY,

CHOOSE, IN TRAVELING EAST OR WEST, THE

Central Vermont Railroad,

Which forms, in connection with the GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, the

Old and Favorite New England Route

TO AND FROM ALL POINTS WEST.

The Rolling Stock and Equipment of the Central Vermont Railroad is
second to no Road in this country. It is the only line running

PULLMAN SLEEPING CARS

Between Chicago and Boston without Change,

AND SOLID TRAINS OF ELEGANT COACHES AND BAGGAGE CARS

Without Change between Montreal and Boston.

Steel Rails, Iron Bridges, with Westinghouse Air Brake, Miller Platform, Coupler and Buffer on every train, assure safety while passing swiftly through Mountain, Lake and River Scenery of the most beautiful and varied description.

The Train Service of this Road is so arranged that sure connections are made with the Grand Trunk Railway, and with Railroads in New England to and from all the principal cities, villages and towns in

Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut and Vermont.

Pullman Cars Montreal to Springfield, and Wagner Cars Montreal to New
York, Without Change.

First-Class Restaurants, with reasonable charges, and ample time given
for meals.

BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH CANADA IN BOND,

Avoiding all trouble of customs.

During the Summer, Excursion Tickets are Sold over this Line at
Greatly Reduced Rates.

Ask for rates via this Line before buying, and note that your tickets
read via

CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD.

For sale at all Stations and responsible Ticket Offices East and West.

COMPANY’S OFFICES.--260 Washington Street, Boston; 271 Broadway, New York; 136 James Street, Montreal.

J. W. HOBART, General Supt. S. W. CUMMINGS, Gen. Pass’r Agent.

General Offices--St. Albans, Vt.

SUMMER TOURS
ON THE
GREAT LAKES.

The attention of Summer Tourists, contemplating a trip for health and recreation, is invited to the attractions of a Tour _via_ the Great Lakes on one of the following PALACE STEAMERS:--

India, China, Japan, Winslow, Nyack, Arctic, Empire State, Badger
State, and St. Louis,

OF

_The Lake Superior Transit Co._,

Leaving Detroit, Cleveland, Erie, and Buffalo, for Duluth, at the head
of Lake Superior, and between the ports above named. To those who have
not the leisure to travel the entire chain of lakes, we offer a
=Series of Short Excursions=, on Lakes Erie, Huron, or Superior.
Steamers leave Detroit, from foot of Woodward Avenue, as follows: For
Sault Ste. Marie, Marquette, Hancock, Houghton, Ashland, Bayfield, and
Duluth, Mondays, Tuesdays. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, at 11
o’clock, P.M. For Cleveland. Erie, and Buffalo Sundays, Mondays,
Wednesdays, and Saturdays, at 5 o’clock, P.M. A Guide Book,
descriptive of the routes, entitled “Summer Tours via the Great
Lakes,” will be sent free on receipt of stamp, by addressing J. T.
WHITING, General Agent L. S. T. Co., Detroit, Mich., or the
undersigned

T. P. CARPENTER, Gen. Pass. Agt. Lake Superior Transit Co.,

BUFFALO, N. Y.

SMITH’S DIAGRAM
OF
PARLIAMENTARY RULES,
SHOWING
The Relation of Any Motion to Every Other Motion,
AND
_Answering at a Glance over 500 Questions in Parliamentary Practice;
together with a Key containing Concise Hints and Directions for
Conducting the Business of Deliberative Assemblies._

☞ It is to the Study of Parliamentary Practice what a Map is to the
Study of Geography.

TESTIMONIALS.

From the New York Independent, March 9, 1882.

“Smith’s Diagram of Parliamentary Rules” is an admirably ingenious simplification of the confused matter of parliamentary practice. By a very simple arrangement, motions of all kinds, in the order of their precedence, are placed in the center, printed in large type, and their relation to every possible rule is indicated by connecting lines. The diagram is accompanied by a key, which, in explaining itself, clears up the subject as well, and gives concise hints and directions for the conduct of deliberative assemblies. Mr. Uriah Smith has put more of the essence of parliamentary practice into small space and lucid order than we find in any other manual.

From J. Warren Keifer, Speaker of the House of Representatives, Washington.

I have carefully examined the volume, and take pleasure in saying that I regard the work as a very valuable one, and arranged so as to indicate to either the casual reader or even an expert the special as well as general rules controlling a particular motion. Your work seems to have been thoroughly done, and I cheerfully commend it as a _vade mecum_ for parliamentarians.

From Hon. David H. Jerome, Ex-Governor of Michigan.

Can be utilized by a presiding officer at a glance, and without the embarrassing delay necessary to consult ordinary authorities.

From Benj. L. Hewitt, Speaker of the House of Representatives, Harrisburg, Pa.

After a careful examination of your “Diagram of Parliamentary Rules,” I find it a most exhaustive and complete compendium of parliamentary law, affording, at a glance, solutions of almost every question in parliamentary practice. It cannot fail to meet with public favor.

From Prof. I. L. Stone, formerly Superintendent of the City Schools of Battle Creek.

For practical use it is worth all the massive treatises in the world. By a happy device you have brought the whole perplexing code of parliamentary laws into such brief space and simple shape that any point of order can be determined at a glance, and _without turning a page_. Of the flood of new “aids to instruction,” this is one of the very few which really meets and satisfies “a long felt want.”

Price, by mail, postpaid: cloth binding, 50 cents; in morocco, $1.00.

Address REVIEW & HERALD PUB. CO., Battle Creek, Mich.

NICHOLS, SHEPARD & CO.
BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN.
[Works at intersection of Michigan Central and Grand Trunk Railways.]

“VIBRATOR”
Threshing Machinery,
TRACTION AND PORTABLE ENGINES.

THE STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE.

Marvelous Durability: Wonderful Power:
Elegant Workmanship:
Beautiful Finish: Superior Material.

Send for circulars and price lists. (Sent free.)

TRANSATLANTIC STEAMSHIP AGENCY.

This Agency represents the leading and most patronized Steamship Lines
plying between

AMERICA AND EUROPE.

First and
Second Cabin

Round-Trip Tickets

At Greatly
Reduced Rates.

TICKETS

sold always as low as
at Headquarters, and
berths promptly secured
(by telegraph,
when necessary.)

Prepaid Tickets for those wishing to send for friends in England, Scotland, Ireland, Germany, or any other European country, at astonishingly low rates.

Circulars, or any information about tickets furnished promptly on application to

Box 2277. A. SWEDBERG, Battle Creek. Mich.

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL
SANITARIUM
Battle Creek, Mich.

The Largest and Most Complete Health Institution in the West.

Unrivaled facilities for the treatment of chronic and surgical cases.
Baths, Electricity, Massage, and all the most approved forms of
treatment.

Send for circular. Address

SANITARIUM,
Battle Creek, Mich.

GENUINE
_ITALIAN STRINGS_:
Roman, Naples, Padua, and Veronese,
FOR ALL
STRINGED INSTRUMENTS.

Carefully gauged, and the most PERFECT in COLOR, FINISH, DURABILITY,
and PURITY of TONE. =Sold Under Guaranty!= Imported and for sale by
this house only.

_Musical Instruments and Merchandise._

Manufacturers of the

“PETERS” HAND-MADE CLARINET REEDS,
The most Durable, producing the Finest Tone;

Also, the “PETERS” PATENT VIOLIN PAD,
For Supporting the Violin.

TESTIMONIALS FROM HUNDREDS OF VIOLINISTS

VALUABLE CATALOGUE, showing how and where strings are made, modes of
testing, gauging, selecting, stringing instruments, etc., sent Free!
Address

W. I. PETERS & CO.,
Box 2126, Battle Creek, Mich.

Union School Furniture Company
BATTLE CREEK, MICH., Sole Manufacturers of the
CELEBRATED
“AUTOMATIC” SCHOOL DESKS.

SEND FOR CATALOGUE.

SEND FOR CATALOGUE.

A New Principle, Universally Approved!
Simple. Strong. Convenient. Beautiful!
The Most Popular School Seat in Use!

_This Seat is a DECIDED ADVANCE upon all the Old Styles. Do not use
the Old when the New is better!_

The attention of school officers is invited to the above Seats. The “AUTOMATIC” is now in use in most of the prominent schools in the West, and very generally throughout the United States. Its superior merits have been fully demonstrated. No other seat can compare with it in the essential features of =Healthfulness, Comfort, and Durability=.

Send for our fully illustrated descriptive catalogue, which will give you a correct idea of the Seat, and will show you what leading educators think of it. This catalogue also contains information respecting all kinds of School Supplies, together with elaborate

_Plans and Specifications of School Buildings_,

Which are of great value. It will be sent you gratis, on application.

=HEATERS.=--We are now able to offer you the best School Room Heater in the market. Better and more economical than either stoves or furnaces. See catalogue.

Teachers’, Principals’ and Office Desks in Large Variety.

If you want anything for the school room--Maps, Globes, Slate Blackboards, Slating, Crayons, Erasers, Bells, Reading Charts, Physiological Charts, Window Shades, Dictionaries, etc.,--write to

_UNION SCHOOL FURNITURE CO._,

CHICAGO OFFICE: 180 Wabash Avenue.
Battle Creek, Michigan.

BOULT’S
MOULDING AND DOVETAILING MACHINE

CUTS PANELS OF ANY DESIGN OR STYLE
_Of Mould, in the Solid Wood, with Neatness and Dispatch._

IT IS A FIRST-CLASS
SHAPER, EDGE, AND SURFACE MOULDER.

Also, does beautiful Dovetailing on THICK or THIN Stuffs.

MARSH PATENT
_Cylinder Bed Lathe_,
With Circular and Scroll Saw, Moulding and Metal Turning Attachments.

BUSINESS
FOR THE
MECHANIC.

PLEASURE
FOR THE
AMATEUR.

“There is PLEASURE in it.”
“There is HEALTH in it.”
“THERE IS MONEY IN IT!”

Send for Circulars and Prices to
BATTLE CREEK MACHINERY CO., Battle Creek, Mich.,
SOLE MANUFACTURERS.

CHICAGO TO THE SEA

ILLUSTRATED.

Mountains Rivers Lakes Cataracts and the Sea Shore.]

_Sportsmen and Tourists, Attention All!_

OSGOOD’S
Portable Folding Canvas Boat.

The above represents our 12-foot Boat, extended, ready for use.

Weight, with Paddle, for Trout Fishing, Exploring, Duck Hunting, etc., 25 pounds. Weight, with Bottom-Board, Oars, etc., everything complete, 50 pounds.

View of the Boat in its compact form, showing Boat folded,
Bottom-Board, Camp-stools, Gunwale, Stretcher, and Packing-Chest. All
but Oars and Paddle go in Chest.

SIZE OF CHESTS.

For 15-foot Boat, 40 inches long, 20 inches wide, 20 inches deep.

For 12-foot Boat, 38 inches long, 17 inches wide, 17 inches deep.

FIVE SIZES ARE MANUFACTURED.

No. 1, 15 feet long, 36 inches wide, weight, 75 lbs. Price, $50.
„ 2, 12 „ „ 33 „ „ „ 50 „ „ 40.
„ 3, 12 „ „ 27 „ „ „ 40 „ „ 40.
„ 4, 9½ „ „ 27 „ „ „ 30 „ „ 35.
„ 6, 8 „ „ 33 „ „ „ 30 „ „ 35.

Each size makes up four different WEIGHTS or STYLES. You have the same as FOUR BOATS COMBINED IN ONE.