Chapter I: Preface

After a book has been written, delivered to the publisher, and the proofs corrected, the author fondly imagines that little or no more is expected of him. All he has to do is to wait. In due time his child will be introduced to the world, and perhaps an enthusiastic public, by judicious comments on the virtues of the youngster, will make the parent proud of his offspring.

Before, however, this much-desired event can take place, custom demands that a preface, or an introduction of the aforesaid youngster to polite society, must be written. Unfortunately also the parent has to compile a list or index of the various items of his progeny's belongings that are of interest; so that nothing be left undone that may be of service to the young fellow, what time he makes his bow before a critical audience. In books on travel, nowadays, it is customary often somewhat to scamp this necessary duty, and, after a few remarks in the preface, on subjects not always of absorbing interest, to conclude with the hope that the reader will be as interested in the description of places he has never seen as the author has been in writing about them.

Of course, formerly these matters were better managed. In the 'Epistle Dedicatorie,' the author would at once begin with:--'To the most Noble Earle'--then with many apologies, all in the best English and most perfect taste, he, under the patronage of the aforesaid Noble Earle, would launch his venture on to the wide seas of publicity, or perhaps growing bolder, would put forth his wares with some such phrases as the following:--'And now, oh most ingenuous reader! can you find narrated many adventures, both on the high mountains of the earth, and in far countries but little known to the vulgar. Here are landscapes brought home, and so faithfully wrought, that you must confess, none but the best engravers could work them. Here, too, may'st thou find described diverse parts of thine own native land.'

'Choose that which pleaseth thee best. Not to detain thee longer, farewell; and when thou hast considered thy purchase, may'st thou say, that the price of it was but a charity to thyself, so not ill spent.'

J. N. C.
16 CAMPDEN GROVE,
LONDON, _24th March 1902_

NOTE

Four of the chapters in this book have appeared before in the pages of the Scottish Mountaineering Club _Journal_ (A Chuilionn, Wastdale Head, A Reverie, and the Oromaniacal Quest). They all, however, have been partly rewritten, so the author trusts that he may be excused for offering to the public wares which are not entirely fresh.

The Fragment from a Lost MS., and part of the chapter on the Lofoten Islands, were first printed in the _Alpine Journal_.

The author also takes this opportunity of thanking Mr. Colin B. Phillip, first, for allowing photogravure reproductions to be made of two of his pictures (The Coolin and the Macgillicuddy's Reeks), and secondly, for the great trouble Mr. Phillip took in producing the three sketches of the Himalayan mountains which are to be found in the text.

CONTENTS

THE HIMALAYA--

CHAP. PAGE
I. General History of Mountaineering in the
Himalaya, 1
II. Our Journey out to Nanga Parbat, 25
III. The Rupal Nullah, 38
IV. First Journey to Diamirai Nullah
and the Diamirai Pass, 57
V. Second Journey to Diamirai Nullah
and Ascent to 21,000 feet, 70
VI. Ascent of the Diamirai Peak, 85
VII. Attempt to ascend Nanga Parbat, 104
VIII. The Indus Valley and Third Journey
to Diamirai Nullah, 118

THE CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 135
THE ALPS, 165
THE LOFOTEN ISLANDS, 185
A CHUILIONN, 211
THE MOUNTAINS OF IRELAND, 225
PREHISTORIC CLIMBING NEAR WASTDALE HEAD, 245
A REVERIE, 263
THE OROMANIACAL QUEST, 283
FRAGMENT FROM A LOST MS., 299
NOTES ON THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINS, 305
INDEX, 311

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A STORMY SUNSET, _Frontispiece_
A HIMALAYAN CAMP, To face page 2
A HIMALAYAN NULLAH, " " 38
THE DIAMIRAI PASS FROM THE RED PASS, " " 62
THE MAZENO PEAKS FROM THE RED PASS, " " 74
THE DIAMIRAI PEAK FROM THE RED PASS, " " 88
VIEW OF THE DIAMIRAI PEAK FROM THE RED PASS, " " 90
ON NANGA PARBAT, FROM UPPER CAMP, " " 104
NANGA PARBAT FROM THE DIAMIRAI GLACIER, " " 110
DO. DO. DO., " " 112
VIEW OF DIAMA GLACIER FROM SLOPES OF DIAMIRAI
PEAK, " " 116
THE DIAMA PASS FROM THE RAKIOT NULLAH, " " 120
THE CHONGRA PEAKS FROM THE RED PASS, " " 122
THE FRESHFIELD GLACIER, " " 148
A CREVASSE ON MONT BLANC, " " 166
LOFOTEN, " " 186
THE COOLIN, " " 212
THE MACGILLICUDDY'S REEKS, " " 226

LIST OF MAPS

MAP OF KASHMIR, To face page 28
MAP OF NANGA PARBAT, " " 40
CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
MAP OF THE ICE-FIELDS AND THE MOUNTAINS, " " 144