Chapter VIII: The Indus Valley and Third Journey to Diamirai Nullah (5)

Nor did they issue forth unprepared, for they bore with them the proper, peculiar, fit, exact, and lawful insignia of the brotherhood, a mystic thread, coiled even as the sable serpent, likewise staves curiously shapen did they take in their hands, for 'peradventure,' said they, 'the way may be steep and full of toil, the dangers many; behold go we not forth in a savage land, where liveth the white dragon and eke basilisks, spoken of by the ingenious J. J. Scheuchzerus, doctor of medicine, what time he did wander in the far country of the Helvetii? Good, now come we to it! for saith not Aristotle in his _Physicks_, "_Ab actionibus procedit speculatio_," "Now are all things propitious, let us seek the Delphinian oracle"; Phoebus like unto the fiery Dragon shines bravely, conquering the hydropical vapours and transforming them into subtill aerial sublimations; soon shall we come to the high places where abideth the great water the Lochan Meal an't Suidhe. It shall we leave on the dexter hand, for the path lieth not there but onwards, straight without twist or turn along the valley at the feet of the red Mountains, whose hue is multiplied, transmuted, and purified even unto seven times seven, a wonder to the sight, and tincted by the ruddy colour of Sol the golden, what time he goeth down at eventide, slavering the deep waters of the western sea so that they be all of a gore bloud.'

But let not these things turn us from the true Quest, the hidden Mysteries, which in the opinion of the vulgar rude are by many deemed nought but delusions. For over against and opposite across the valley, abideth the Immensity of greatness, the majestic Silence, the prodigious Dampness, the Depth, in shape like a great Dome, whereof the base is in the Flouds and the Waters, whence issueth forth delectable springs welling up for ever, continually ascending yet ever flowing downwards; here perchance shall we find the Mysterie of the heavenly Chaos, and the great Abyss, the way to attaine to Happiness, even the quintessential mystagorical Delight and oromaniacal Quest, so highly extolled yet so deeply concealed by the true Philosophers.

Thus did they fare onward toward the midst of the valley placed between the red Hill and the great Mountain. Then behold before them rose hugeous rocks and bulky stones standing on end facing to the north where the ice and snow tarry from one winter even unto the following; for in those places the sun shines not, neither are found the comfortable, soft, juicy, and foeculent breezes of the South; there the brood of the black Crow and the white smoak or vapour, and comprehensive congelations of the Mistus Scotorum are produced. So were the Brethren sore amazed, but as yet could not see even the first matter of the Work.

'See,' said one, 'the way leadeth upward where the Spirit arising like unto a volatisation, a separation or sublimation or wind, has much bewhited the mighty petrolific ridge full of points towers and pinnacles. There the pursuit may be pursued, there the volatisation which is an ascension may be compleatly demonstrated, and the operation of the great Work may be begun. First must we fashion in the snow and ice great stairs of steps, by aid of which, through prolongation, extension, reduplication, and multiplication shall we be brought on to the Ridge even at the beginning.' So did they enter upon the Work in this lowest period of obscurity, multiplying the steps in a certain mystic manner which had been revealed to them; and it came to pass that they attained at last on to the Ridge, whereon might be perceived far above, towers, pinnacles, points, and other pleasant places, suitable and useful for the furtherance of the Quest.

First did they traverse a narrow edge of snow fashioned by the wind. Then said one, 'Follow me, but look not either to the right or to the left, for there lyeth the Abyss.' So they followed him, with the mystic thread fastened to their girdles. They saw how that, far above, the heavens were separated from the white snow, which was curled and twisted, also falling, overhanging, and extended, so that they could perceive no way whereby they might pass through.

But above and beyond lay the summit of the great Mountain, where clouds are concocted in the natural furnace; there also may be seen in the proper season, 'The whole operation of the Sons of Wisdom, the great Procession and the Generation of Storms, the Marriage of the Stars and the Seven Circulations of the Elements.' So did they fare onwards; and by inspection were they aware how others had travelled on the same way, for on the stones and rocks were certain petrographical scratchings and curious markings deeply graven and very evident. But presently came they to a great Rock, a majestic Tower. Here were they perforce compelled to depart to the right hand, placing themselves in steep and perilous positions on slopes of ice, which downwards seemed to end in empty air, even in the great void.

Then were the Three exceeding joyful, for is it not written in the secret books of the Brethren, Many operations must they perform amidst the great mountains and the snowy ice, especially and creditably, ere they be so transmuted, mystagorified and metagrabolised, that they may be numbered with the True, the Pious, the Elect, even amongst those who are considered worthy of the most mystical and allegorical symbol, A.C., by many variously interpreted. For some hold that it signifies, 'Adepti Cragorum,' whilst others 'Angelorum Confederatio,' for these latter maintain that the Quest can only be rightly pursued, or satisfactorily continued, by the aid of wings; but in this matter they are deceived, and argue foolishly after the wisdom of the flesh. Still all things have an end at last--good Wine, Pinnacles, Spires, cabalistic Emblems, and oromaniacal Wanderings, even the green sauce of the Philosophers and the pythagoric Mustard of the Great Master himself, spoken of by Alcofribas Nasier in his merrie work. So did the Three find the perilous passage across the headlong steep of that ruinous place finish.

Then did they pass onward to the Labyrinth, the rocky chaos, and greatly did they marvel at the exceeding steepness thereof; so that only by great perseverance, turning now to the left and now to the right, were they able to break themselves free from the bonds and entanglements, and climb sagaciously upwards to the summit of the great Tower. Whereon did they find a heaped up accumulation of stones curiously erected, a cabalistic Pyramid, set there doubtless by a former seeker in the Work, to the end that true searchers might not despair, but continue the matter of the Work with fresh hope and industry. But when they had gazed for a short space, they perceived how that the Consummation, the great Fulfilment, was nigh at hand. Behind and far below, imprinted in the snow, were the steps by which they had mounted upwards, winding now this way, now that, looking like scarce seen veins in whitest marble. But before them lay the narrow Way, the Ridge, the Cleft, and the White Slope, leading even unto the utmost Height, the sovereign Summit of the mightie Mountain. Thither therefore did their footsteps trend.

First did they pass along the narrow Way, treading with exceeding care and exactness, for there was but foothold for one alone; the path being no broader than a man's hand. Next did they descend into the Cleft, which thing is also emblematical and symbolical of the precious secret of all Philosophies, for without this key can no one unlock the Hermetic Garden, the Arcanum of the Alchemists, spoken of by Paracelsus in his _Archidoxis_.

Now before them stretched the white Slope, which lay beneath the topmost summit, and steeper became the path, going upwards with a great steepness; now whilst the three Travellers did toil and seek, endeavouring to meet the perils of the way, yet almost despairing, lo! from out the clouds a thread descended and a voice was heard afar off: 'Fear not, now have ye attained to the Consummation, enter into the mystagorical, quintessential, and delectable Pleasure-House of devout Oromaniacs!'

Thus therefore do the true Philosophers distinguish that which is superior from that which is inferior, for it is a thing deeply concealed by the envious, let therefore the same be thy subject to work upon, thy first Basis, for the white must first come out of the red, and black following with multiplicative virtue rise above according to the nature of all things. Hear then the meaning of the four Degrees. Thy first Degree maketh to sweat but gently. In the second much travail followeth, whereby thy sweat increaseth, whilst _tertius excedit et cum tolerantia laedit_, for our way ascendeth speedilie where the black rocks fall and rise continually. Congelation and Circulation cometh next, when in the fourth Degree the blackness wears away, which, believe me, is a gallant sight. 'Then shalt thou see thy Matter appear, shining, sparkling, and white even like to a most glorious heaven-born Mercury the subject of wonders. Then if thou art fortunate shall the fumes cease and our congelation will glitter incomparably and wonderfully, and thickening more and more it will sprout like the tender frost in a most amiable lustre. Now thou needest no further instruction, only this let me tell you, understand this well, and you will not be amazed any longer with the distinction of our Operations. For all is but a successive action and passion of him who seeks for the Work. Which carrying him up and down like a wheel, returns thither whence it proceeded, and then beginneth again and turns so long till it finds its rest. So he thus attains a _plusquam_ perfection through the marvellous co-operation of Art and Nature.'[T]

'Who knoweth not this in knowledge is blind,
He may forth wander as mist in the wind,
Wotting never with profit where to light,
Because he understands not our words aright.'

Therefore, with what joy, think you, did the Three progress onward after the long and troublous ascent? After _scrambling_,

_slipping, gathering,_
_pulling, talking,_
_pushing, stepping,_
_lifting, grumbling,_
_gasping, anathematising,_
_looking, scraping,_
_hoping, hacking,_
_despairing, bumping,_
_climbing, jogging,_
_holding on, overturning,_
_falling off, hunting,_
_trying, straddling,_
_puffing, and at last_
_loosing, attaining,_

for know ye that by these methods alone are the most divine Mysteries of the Quest reached.

So at last they came even unto the very topmost Point, and were aware how that Priests from the heavenly Temple, which is placed on the top of that Mountain, had come forth to guide them, without further difficulty, across a level plain of white snow to the gates of the Temple itself. But the perils of the way were not ended. At the threshold were there many steps leading down and underground to the Temple's innermost recesses, through a domed vault or doorway built of the plastered snow. Now were these steps both slippery and very treacherous, having been fashioned in a truly sopho-spagyric manner, likewise did they seem reduplicated and multiplied even by the Pythagorical Tetrad. Moreover, above the portal were there magical characters engraven, even after the same fashion as those seen by the wise Pantagruel what time he sought the Oracle of the Bottle in the land of Lanterns.

But beyond the portal a very thick mistie and cimmerian darkness, an eclipsation, apprehended them, and the Three did stumble now this way and now that, so did they greatly fear even at this very end of their Quest, that beasts and creeping things of monstrous shape awaited them, dangers far worse than those on the steep places of the Mountain.

'Art thou here?' said one. 'Prithee guide my steps!' quoth another. 'Alas, we are undone!' cried a third. 'Zoons, why are ye afraid?' answered a voice; 'when ye have passed the three-square Corner and the Darkness ye are safe in the Sanctum Sanctorum even of the Elect, in the Philosopher's heavenly Chaos, where may ye understand all Mysteries. But first answer ye me, whence come ye?' 'From without and below.' 'And how?' 'By the seven-fold stairs nigh unto the great Abyss where liveth the brood of the black Crow, and the engendering of the Mistus Scotorum proceedeth perpetually.' 'Good, but how did ye proceed?' 'Thence came we by the rocky Labyrinth, and by the perilous Passage to the great Tower, and the mystic Pyramid, which is set on the further side of the narrow Way and the Cleft, emblematic of hidden things; thence by the white Slope to the topmost Summit. So have we sought the divine mysteries of this great Quest with much toil, so may we attaine to the Philosopher's heavenly Chaos.'

Then said the voice, 'Enter into the abode of Knowledge, through the open Entrance to the shut Palace of the King,[U] into the outer chamber of the most sophistical Retreat of the Sons of Wisdom, where are perpetually and endlessly produced many reasonable meteorological prognostications; also divinations, concentrations, observations, and conglomerations are recorded in divers registers, all of them most deducible, for are they not stored with great care in sundry leathern bags for the delectation of wise men? Thou hast been led as it were by the hand through many a desert and waste spot, now lift up your eyes and behold where you are; welcome into the garden of the Philosophers, which is walled about with a very high wall.' So were they shown by the dwellers in the Temple many and marvellous wonders. In the centre stood a furnace for all transmutations and agitations by heat; whilst on shelves did they see great store of divers bottles, pans, boxes, and bags, wherein could be found succulent sauces and philosophical essences, to the end that the delectable concoctions of the pious might be completed.

Likewise great numbers of books. In some could be found treatises of the true science, also devices, hieroglyphic interpretations and perspicuous renderings of great wisdom, in others histories of joyous diversions. Also were there 'curious and ingenious engines for all sorts of motions, where were represented and imitated all articulate sounds and letters, and conveyed in trunks and strange lines and distances. Also helps for the sight representing things afar off in the heavens and remote places, as near, and making feigned distances.'[V] Likewise mathematical instruments, exquisitely made, for the discovering of small and minute bodies in the air. 'Also divices for natural divination of tempests, great inundations, temperatures of the yeare and diverse other things.'[W] Also were they shown many and marvellous things pertaining to the harmony of the heavenly spheres. Then did they drink the mixed draught, the comfortable potation, joyously, philosophically, and with discernment, for at last had they attained to the divine Secrets of the Philosophers, even unto the mystagorical Delight, the great Fulfilment of the Spagyrick Quest of devout Oromaniacs.

FOOTNOTES:

[S] The Spagyric Quest of Beroaldus Cosmopolita.

[T] _The First Gate._ By the Chanon of Bridlington.

[U] Introitus apertus ad occlusum Regis palatium.

[V] _The New Atlantis._ F. Bacon.

[W] _Ibid._

FRAGMENT FROM A LOST MS.,

PROBABLY BY ARISTOTLE, ENTITLED, [Greek: peri athlêtikês, k.t.l.];
OR A TREATISE CONCERNING THE SPORTS AND PASTIMES OF
THE ATHENIAN YOUTH WITH REGARD TO THEIR ETHICAL
SIGNIFICANCE.

We come now to investigate the position of the mountaineer, or climber of hills. Now, we may rightly call him the true mountaineer or climber of hills, who possesses the true love of mountain climbing, which, being a mean between two extremes, may be fitly termed a virtue. First, indeed, it is right to call the love of mountain climbing an active virtue, and not one of contemplation, for to no one is the ascent of a hill possible by contemplation alone; still, the virtue of a mountain climber is for a truth not wholly active, but is partly contemplative, as we shall show further on.

Moreover, the love of hill climbing, like fortitude or other virtues, has its defects, its mean, and its excess. Now, as we have said, virtue being a mean of which the extremes are the excess or the deficiency, he who is defective in this matter is one who either has not this love of climbing, or is indifferent in the matter; this man, indeed, is pitied by the hill climber, and indeed may be called the 'irrational man.' Now by the 'irrational man' we do not mean him who is unreasonable without qualification, but rather the man who is possessed of unreason from the point of view of the mountaineer, and truly amongst 'irrational men' are to be found the fathers of families, many learned men and others. Moreover, the 'irrational man' prefers rather to ascend hills by means of the telescope, or in a railway train, and if interrogated on the subject, expresses great scorn for those who rise at midnight, or in the early hours of the morning, for the purpose of imperilling their lives on the end of a rope. Again, he goes not to places where there are no hostels, alleging that he likes to be comfortable and enjoy himself. The scarcity of inns, however, in mountainous countries is a matter which, in these times, has in some few instances been remedied, for we are credibly informed that on the topmost summit of the lofty Mount Snowdon, in the Principality of Wales, an hostel exists, where the 'irrational man' may find gratification for his baser appetites, and perhaps may also at the same time experience, in a limited manner, that happiness which in its full degree is experienced by the true lover of hill climbing, whom we may call the 'mountaineer.'[X] Further, the 'irrational man' is inclined often to treat the adventures of the 'mountaineer' as travellers' tales, but in this respect he is unable rightly to distinguish between the true climber of hills and the 'pseudo-mountaineer' who haunts the smoking-rooms of certain hostels. This man climbs, but in imagination only. He will relate how he has ascended certain high and difficult, nay, even inaccessible peaks, and will brand the names of many hills on staves, that when he returns to his native land he may win much reverence. But although the 'pseudo-mountaineer' pretends to greater things than he has accomplished, and is, therefore, a depraved person, on the whole, perhaps, he appears more a vain than a bad man, for it is not for the sake of money that he would have the unwary traveller and the people of his nation believe his stories, but for the sake of honour and glory, which in itself is praiseworthy.

Now both the 'pseudo-mountaineer' and the 'irrational man' err by way of defect, being indifferent to the true joys of mountaineering. But the 'mountaineer' is he who has this virtue in the right measure. He delights not in climbing this hill or that, but in climbing itself. He loves to wander in mountainous lands; ascents of great mountains, clad in frozen snow, to him are not unprofitable. Mountain-huts ill-ventilated, nights spent under rocks, amidst snow, wind, mist, or rain, these things will he endure. Moreover, to help him, will he even pay much money to the more hardy inhabitants of the hills, who are able to guide him with skill and safety through the inhospitable fastnesses, which he loves to explore. Thus much knowledge will he gain, making observations on the heights of hills, the efficacy of meat lozenges, the movement of glaciers by day, and the _pulex irritans_ by night. He is a searcher after sensations. But when, owing to misfortune, he finds that his desire for climbing is in inverse ratio to his opportunity for so doing, then will he spend his leisure hours in adorning his maps with red lines, or he will write papers, yea, even books, describing his former exploits, so that perchance other 'mountaineers' may receive benefit therefrom.

But, as we have already said, the love of mountain climbing, like fortitude and other virtues, has its mean and its defect; as to the mean, we have seen that it is the virtue of the 'mountaineer,' whilst the defect constitutes the habit of the 'pseudo mountaineer' and the 'irrational man.' But the extreme is found in the man who has the desire to climb hills out of all reason, therefore we call him the 'oromaniac,' or he who is incontinent in the matter. He it is who ascends hills on the wrong side, and cares not to travel in the line of least resistance; also should he hear that a pinnacle of rock is inaccessible, he is at once seized with a great desire to climb that pinnacle. For he climbs not mountains for the exercise, or the love of climbing itself, but for the mere base desire to beat all records or to outdo an enemy, or that he may see his name blazoned in the local papers. And not unfrequently do accidents befall such an one, and he hurts himself grievously; hence come those accidents which we may call indefinite, for of this kind of accident there is often no definite cause, for the cause of it is casual, and that is indefinite. Thus such an one may have fallen. Now if it was not his intention so to do, and he either slipped or was otherwise moved in a direction suddenly downwards, it happened accidentally. The accident, therefore was generated, and is, but not so far as itself is, but as something else is. Moreover, in this kind of accident, as we have already stated, it often happens that the 'oromaniac' suffers many woes; breaking sometimes a limb, or, if still more unfortunate, his neck, or he suffers mutilation[Y] in respect to his garments. Again, accidents may be called that which is inherent to something, and of which something may be truly asserted; as for instance, if any one going up one mountain in a mist should, after much fatigue, find himself at the summit of another, the ascent would be an accident to him who climbs the mountain. Nor, if any one climbs one mountain, does he for the most part climb another. Accident is after another manner denominated, that which essentially belongs--'The inseparable,' for instance, the mountains themselves. Hence, indeed, it happens that accidents of this kind are perpetual, which is not the case with any others. Now concerning the love of mountain climbing, and the excess and deficiency thereof, as well as the mean which is also a virtue, and concerning also accidents both separable and inseparable of mountain climbing, let this suffice.

FOOTNOTES:

[X] The great Lexicographer defines the word as 'an inhabitant of the mountains, a savage, a freebooter, a rustick.' Can the word be here used in this sense?

[Y] Of the mutilated we have spoken elsewhere. 'A man is mutilated when some part is taken away, and this not any part indifferently, but which, when wholly taken away, cannot again be generated. Hence, men that are bald are not mutilated.'--_Metaphysics_, Book v. chap. xxvii.

NOTES ON THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAINS

The great flood of the Indus in 1841 seems to have been one of the most tremendous cataclysms recorded as having occurred on the continent of India. The exact reason of it was for many years unknown. Major Cunningham suggested that it was due to the bursting of an ice-dammed lake on the Shayok river. Major Becher seems, however, to have been the first who expressed a belief that it was caused by a landslip blocking the Indus near Gor. In a letter (_Journ. Asiat. Soc. Bengal_, vol. xxviii. p. 219) he writes that a mountain called Ultoo Kunn, near Gor, owing to an earthquake, subsided into the valley of the main Indus. Drew, in his book on Kashmir (p. 415), gives the following description: 'The flood of 1841 was in this wise. It occurred, as near as I can make out, in the beginning of June of that year. At Atak, a place twelve or fifteen miles below where the latitude-parallel of 34° crosses the Indus, the river had been observed during several months, indeed from December of the previous year onwards, to be unusually low; in the spring it had risen a little from the snow melting, but only a little, so that at the end of May (when in ordinary years the volume has greatly increased) it was still extraordinarily low. This in itself should have been enough to warn the people who dwelt by its banks, but so little was it thought of that a portion of the Sikh army was encamped on the low plain of Chach which bordered the river. One day in the beginning of June, at two in the afternoon, the waters were seen by those who were there encamped to be coming upon them, down the various channels, and to be swelling out of these to overspread the plain in a dark, muddy mass, which swept everything before it. The camp was completely overwhelmed; five hundred soldiers at once perished; only those who were within near reach of the hill-sides could hope for safety. Neither trees nor houses could avail to keep those surprised in the plain out of the power of the flood, for trees and houses themselves were swept away; every trace of cultivation was effaced; and the tents, the baggage, and the artillery, all were involved in the ruin. The result was graphically described by a native eye-witness, whose words were, "As a woman with a wet towel sweeps away a legion of ants, so the river blotted out the army of the Raja."' Drew was probably the first to actually visit the place where the block occurred. And a villager from Gor pointed out to him the exact spot where the debris of the landslip blocked the river. These floods seem to be of somewhat frequent occurrence. In 1844 one came from the Tshkoman valley above Gilgit. In 1858 another did great damage at Naushahra. The Indus at Attock (Atak) on 10th August was very low. In the early morning it rose ten feet in two hours, and five hours later it had risen no less that fifty feet, and continued rising till it stood no less than ninety feet higher than in the morning. It is probable that this flood came from the Hunza valley.

Smaller floods in the narrow Himalayan valleys are of frequent occurrence. For instance at Tashing, in 1850, a large lake was formed in the Rupal nullah by the snout of the Tashing glacier crossing the valley till it was jammed against the rock wall on the opposite side, thus blocking the Rupal torrent. Probably this will again happen, for when we were there in 1895 the Tashing glacier had once more blocked the valley to the depth of at least 200 feet, the Rupal stream finding its way underneath the ice; should this passage become in any way stopped, a huge lake must at once form behind the glacier.

The extreme narrowness, and often the great depth, of many of these Himalayan valleys will always be favourable to the production of these floods. Should a landslip occur, or should a glacier, such as the Tashing glacier, block the valley, a flood must be the inevitable result. On the Indus there are many places where a dam might easily be formed. In the bend underneath Haramosh, at Lechre under Nanga Parbat, or further down below Chilas in that unknown country where the Indus begins to flow in a southerly direction. For there on the map the Indus is made to flow between two peaks, _not three miles apart_: one is marked 16,942 feet, and the other 15,250 feet, thus making the depth of this ravine over 12,000 feet.

LIST OF SOME OF THE MOUNTAINS IN THE HIMALAYA THAT ARE OVER 24,000 FEET IN HEIGHT

The following list of mountains that are more than 24,000 feet has been taken from various maps. It gives most of the peaks that have been trigonometrically measured, but probably there are at least as many more in those great mountain ranges, the Hindu Kush, the Mustagh, the Kuen Lun, and the Himalaya, that are over 24,000 feet high.

The next highest peak in the world outside Asia is Aconcagua, 23,393 feet high.

Feet.
Devadhunga, Gaurisanka, or Mt. Everest, in Nepaul, 29,002
K^{2} in the Mustagh range, 28,278
Kanchenjunga (1), north peak in Sikkim, 28,156
Kanchenjunga (2), south peak, 27,815
5 Makalu, S.E. of Devadhunga, 27,799
Dhaolagiri (1), in Nepaul, 26,826
Unnamed peak N.W. of Katmandu, 26,680
Nanga Parbat, or Diama, in Kashmir, 26,629
Unnamed peak N. of Pokra Nepaul 26,522
10 K^{1} in the Mustagh range, 26,483
Hidden peak in the Mustagh range, 26,470
Gusherbrum (1), in the Mustagh range, 26,360
Gosai Than, N.E. of Katmandu, 26,305
Gusherbrum (2), 26,103
15 Unnamed, N. of Pokra Nepaul, 26,069
Gusherbrum (3), 26,016
Unnamed peak, N.W. Katmandu, 25,818
Unnamed peak, N.W. Katmandu, 25,729
Masherbrum (1), in the Mustagh range, 25,676
20 Nanda Devi (1), in Kumaon, 25,661
Masherbrum (2), 25,660
Nanga Parbat or Diama (2), 25,586
Rakipushi, in Kashmir, 25,550
Unnamed, N. of Hispar glacier, Mustagh range, 25,503
25 Unnamed, N. of Hispar glacier, 25,493
Dhaolagiri (2), 25,456
Ibi Gamin, or Kamet, in Kumaon, 25,443
K^{10}, in the Mustagh range, 25,415
Boiohagurdaonas (1), N.W. of Hunza, 25,370
30 Jannu, in Sikkim, 25,304
K^{11} in the Mustagh range, 25,210
Nubra peak (1), N. of Leh, Mustagh range, 25,183
K^{6} in the Mustagh range, Chogolisa peak, 25,119
Bride peak, Baltoro glacier, Mustagh range, 25,110
35 Dhaolagiri (3), 25,095
Boiohagurdaonas (2), 25,050
Unnamed, N. of Pokra Nepaul, 24,780
Nubra Peak (2), 24,698
Tirach Mir (1), N. of Chitral Hindu Kush, 24,611
40 Unnamed, near Rakipushi, Kashmir, 24,470
Muz Tagh Ata, Pamirs, 24,400
Nanda Devi (2) (Nanda Kot), 24,379
K^{12} in the Mustagh range, 24,352
Tirich Mir (2), 24,343
45 Unnamed, N. of Katmandu Nepaul, 24,313
Haramosh, near Gilgit Kashmir, 24,270
Boiohagurdaonas (3), 24,044
Unnamed, S. of Devadhunga, Nepaul, 24,020
Kabru, in Sikkim, 24,015
50 Chumaliri, in Bhutan, 24,000
Aling Gangri, in Tibet, 24,000
K^{9} in the Mustagh range, 24,000

LITERATURE DEALING WITH THE HIMALAYA

Bogle, G., Account of Tibet. Philosophical Transactions, No. 67,
part 2, and Annual Register, 1778.

Turner, Capt. S., Account of an Embassy to the Court of the
Teshoo Lama, in Tibet, 1 vol., 1806.

Webb and Raper, Journey to explore the sources of the Ganges.
Asiatic Researches, vol. x.

Colebrooke, H., On the height of the Himala Mountains. Asiatic
Researches, vol. xi.

Moorcroft, W., Journey to the Lake Mánasarówara. Asiatic
Researches, vol. xii.

Kirkpatrick, Col. W., An Account of the Kingdom of Nepaul,
1 vol., 1811.

Hamilton, Francis, M.D., An Account of the Kingdom of
Nepal, 1 vol., 1819.

Fraser, J. B., Tour through part of the Snowy Range of the
Himalya Mountains, 1 vol., 1820.

Hodgson, B. H., Essays on Nepál and Tibet, etc., 2 vols., 1874;
also no less than 170 papers to various periodicals, chiefly
the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal. Cp. Report
on the Mineralogical Survey of the Himala Mountains.
J. A. S. B. xi., part 1, p. x.

Vigne, G. T., Travels in Cashmir, Ladak, etc., 2 vols., 1835.

Thomson, T., M.D., Western Himalaya and Tibet, 1 vol., 1852.

Moorcroft, W. and G. Trebeck, Travels in the Himalayan
Provinces, etc., 2 vols., 1841.

Gerard, Capt. A., Account of Koonawur, in the Himalaya, 1 vol.,
1841.

Gerard and Lloyd, Tours in the Himalaya, 2 vols., 1840.

Cunningham, Sir A., Ladák, Physical, Statistical, and Historical,
1 vol., 1854.

Strachey, R., Physical Geography of Kumaon and Gurhwal and
the adjoining parts of Tibet. R. G. S. Journal, xxi., p. 57.

Strachey, Capt. H., Physical Geography of Western Tibet.
R. G. S. Journal, xxiii., p. 2, published separately, 1 vol.,
1854; also Journey to Lake Mánasarówar, 1 vol., 1848.

'Mountaineer' (Wilson), A Summer Ramble in the Himalayas
and Cashmere, 1 vol., 1860.

Hooker, Sir J. D., Himalayan Journals, 2 vols., 1854.

Saunders, Trelawny W., Sketch of the Mountains and River
Basins of India, in two maps, with explanatory memoirs.
Geographical Department, India Office, 1870.

Gordon, Lieut.-Col. T. E., The Roof of the World, 1 vol., 1876.

Wilson, Andrew, The Abode of Snow, 1 vol., 1875.

Indian Alps and How we Crossed Them. By a Lady Pioneer,
1 vol., 1876.

Markham, Clements R., A Memoir on the Indian Surveys, 1
vol., 1871; 2nd ed., 1878.

Montgomerie, Major T. G., Reports on the Trans-Himalayan
Explorations, 1865-1867, 1869, and 1871 (Indian Survey).

Shaw, R., Visits to High Tartary, Yârkand, and Kâshgar,
1 vol., 1871.

Torrens, Lieut.-Col. H. D., Travels in Ladak, Tartary, and
Kashmir, 1 vol., 1862.

Bellew, Dr. H. W., Kashmir and Kashgar, 1 vol., 1875.

Drew, F., Jummoo and Kashmir Territories, 1 vol., 1875.

Bogle, G., and T. Manning, Narratives of their Journeys to
Tibet and Lhasa, edited by Clements R. Markham, 1 vol.,
1876.

Godwin-Austen, Col. H. H., Royal Geographical Society Journal,
vol. xxxiv., p. 19.

Knight, Capt., Diary of a Pedestrian in Cashmere and Tibet,
1 vol., 1863.

Schlagintweit, H. and B., The Last Journeys and Death of
Adolph Schlagintweit, 1854.

Conway, Sir W. M., Climbing in the Karakoram Himalayas,
1 vol., 1894.

Knight, E. F., Where Three Empires Meet, 1 vol., 1893.

MacCormick, A. D., An Artist in the Himalayas, 1 vol., 1895.

Waddell, L. A., Among the Himalayas, 1 vol., 1899.

Younghusband, F. E., The Heart of a Continent, 1 vol., 1896.

Boeck, K., Indische Gletcherfahrten, 1900.

Deasy, H. H. P., In Tibet and Chinese Turkestan, 1 vol., 1901.

Durand, A., Making of a Frontier, 1 vol., 1900.

Holdich, Col. Sir T. H., Indian Borderland, 1 vol., 1901.

Bose, P. N., Glaciers of Kabru, 1 vol., 1901.

Workman, Mrs. F. B. and Dr. W. H., In the Ice-World of
Himalaya, 1 vol., 1900.

INDEX

A
A^{21}. See Mount Monal.
A^{22}, 17, 18.
Achill Island, cliffs of, 233.
A Chuilionn, 211. See Coolin Hills.
Alberta, Mount, 149.
Alps, The, mountaineering in, 165 _et seq._
Assiniboine group of mountains, 143, 145.
Astor, 43, 123, 126.
Astor valley, road down, 126.
Athabasca pass, 144.
Avalanche of stones, 72.

B
Bagrot nullah explored, 20.
Baker, Mount, 140.
Balfour group of mountains, 144, 146.
Ball group of mountains, 143, 145.
Baltoro glacier ascended, 15, 21, 22.
---- ---- survey of the, 15.
Bandipur, 32.
Baramula, 28.
Bear, red, 45, 62.
Been Keragh, 237, 240.
Ben Eighe, climb on, 274 _et seq._
Ben Nevis, ascent of Tower Ridge of, 288 _et seq._;
observatory on summit of, 296.
Biafo glacier, 21, 24.
Blanc, Mont, ascent of, by Brenva route, 175.
Bogle, G., Mission to Tibet, 8.
Boss, Emil, 17.
Bow range, 143.
Brandon, 237, 240.
Brown, Mount, 149.
Bruce, Major C. G., 20, 21, 23;
ascents near Chitral, 23;
do. near Hunza, 23;
do. near Nagyr, 23;
do. of Ragee-Bogee peaks, 23;
meets us at Tashing, 68;
returns to Abbottabad, 81;
climbing in the Alps by, 178.
Buldar nullah, 123.
Bullock-Workman, Mount, ascent of, 24.
---- Dr. and Mrs., climbing in Ladak and Suru by, 24.
Butesharon glacier, 80;
pass, 81.
Bunar Post, 132.
Burzil or Dorikoon pass, 34.
Bush peak, 147.

C
Caher, 237, 240.
Camping, 154, 182.
Canada, size of, 136.
Carran Tuohill, 237, 239.
Chiche peak, 42;
glacier, ascent of, 49.
Chilas, 26;
road to, 127.
---- tribesmen, raids by, 40.
Chongra peaks, 43, 119, 123.
Choonjerma pass, 11.
Chorit, 36.
Collier, J., 253, 259.
Columbia group of mountains, 144, 148.
---- Mount, 148.
---- river, 141.
Connemara, the twelve Bens of, 236.
Conway, Sir W. Martin, mountain exploration by, 20, 21, 23.
Coolin Hills, appearance and description of, 217 _et seq._, 234.
Coomacarrea, 241.
Coomacullen, Lough, 241.
Croaghann, 233.
Crystal peak ascended, 21.

D
Daranshi Saddle climbed, 21.
Dashkin, 123.
Dasskaram needle ascended, 21.
Devadhunga, 9, 11, 12, 20, 24.
Dhaltar peaks, ascent of, 23.
Diama glacier, 116;
pass, 116, 120.
Diamirai glacier explored, 62, 82.
---- nullah, 59;
camp in, 61;
return to, 81;
storm in, 111;
upper camp in, 83, 109, 113;
leave, 116;
last visit to, 133.

---- pass crossed, 64.

---- peak, 88;
view from slopes of, 91;
summit of, 97;
south-west arête of, 100.
Dichil peak, 72, 123.
Divide, Great, 140, 142.
Doian, 126.
Dome peak, 148.
Donegal, 227.
Donkia pass, 12, 16.
Drew, 14.
Dunagiri, 16;
attempted ascent of, 17.

E
Elias, Mount St., 136.
Everest. See Devadhunga.

F
Forbes Group of Mountains, 144, 147.
Forsyth, 213.
Fortress Lake pass, 144.
Fraser river, 140;
canyon, 141.
Freshfield, D., Tour of Kanchenjunga, 24.
---- Mount, 147.

G
Ganalo nullah crossed, 118;
glacier, 119;
camp in, 119.
---- peak, 82, 116, 124.
Garhwal, 9.
Garwood, E., 24.
Gerard, Captain, ascents by, 11.
Gjeitgaljar, 192;
ascent of, 204.
Glaciers, effect of, 190.
Godwin, Austen H. H., survey of mountains by, 15.
Golden Throne, 22.
Goman Singh, 69;
takes servants, etc., over Mazeno La, 73, 117, 124.
---- ---- pass, 89, 118.
Gonar peak, 118.
Goodsir group of mountains, 143, 145.
Gor, inhabitants of, 122.
Graham, W. W., ascents by, 16.
Guicho La, 17, 19.
Gurais, 34.
Gurdon, Capt. B. E. M., ascent near Nagyr, 23.
Gusherbrum, 15.

H
Haramosh, 127.
Haramukh, 29.
Harkabir Thapa, 23, 178.
Harman, Capt., visits Donkia pass, 16.
Hart, H. C., 226, 230.
Haskett-Smith, W. P., 247.
Hastings, G., 27;
arrives at Chiche glacier camp, 56;
returns to Rupal nullah and Astor, 87;
crosses Mazeno La, 90;
returns to Diamirai nullah to search for Mummery,
122, 125, 175, 191, 247, 256.
---- Warren, frontier policy, 8.
Hatu Pir, view from, 127, 129.
Higraf Tind, 192;
ascent of, 197.
Himalaya, peaks over 24,000 feet, 6, 307.
---- exclusion from, 7.
---- Mountaineering Club, 14.
Hindu Kush range, 26.
Hispar pass crossed, 21, 24.
Hooker, Sir Joseph, Sikkim Journeys, 11.
---- group of mountains, 144.
---- Mount, 149.
Howse pass, 144.

I
Ibi-Gamin. See Kamet.
Imboden, Joseph, 16.
Indus valley, 127;
heat in, 130.

J
Johnson, Dr., 50, 211;
description of Skye by, 212.
---- W. H., ascents by, 13.
Jonsong La crossed, 24.
Jubonu, 18; ascent of, 19.

K

K^{2}, 15, 21, 22;
seen from slopes of Nanga Parbat, 71.
Kabru, 16, 18;
ascent of, 19;
objections to claimed ascent of, 19.
Kamet, attempted ascents of, 13, 16.
Kamri pass crossed, 34.
Kanchenjunga, 12, 16, 17, 18, 24.
Kang La, ascent of peak near, 19.
Karakoram range. See Mustagh range.
---- pass, 13.
Kashmir, journey from Rawul Pindi to, 28;
valley of, 29.
Kauffmann, Ulrich, 17.
Kerry Hills, 237 _et seq._
Khaghan, 23.
Kicking Horse pass, 143.
Kishnganga valley, description of, 33.
Kongra-Lama pass, 12.
Koser Gunge, ascent of, 24.
Kulu, 9.
Kumaon, 9.

L
Langstrandtinder, ascent of, 195.
Laurence, W. R., description of valley of Kashmir, 30.
Lechre, landslip blocks Indus at 26, 129.
Leo Porgyul, 11.
Liskom pass, 123.
Lofoten Islands, 185;
fish trade of, 203;
rain in the, 201;
visits to the, 207;
climate of, 187;
scenery of, 189.
Logan, Mount, 136.
Lor Khan, 83, 89;
accident to, 96; 109.
Louise lake, 145.
Lubar nullah, camp in, 79.
---- glacier, 59.
---- torrent, 107.
Lyell, Mount, 147.

M
Macgillicuddy's Reeks. See Kerry Hills, 237.
Maelström, description of, 185.
Manning, T., Mission to Tibet, 8.
Markhor, 60.
Masherbrum, 15.
Mazeno La, 42;
cross the, 57;
cross second time, 66;
cross third time, 77;
Bruce crosses the, 81;
Hastings crosses, 90.
---- peaks, 42.
M'Kinley, Mount, 136.
Monal, Mount, 16;
ascent of, 17, 18.
Montgomerie, Capt. T. G., survey of mountains by, 15.
Mösadlen, 192.
Moss ghyll, climb up, 256.
Mountains, description of
Himalayan, 50;
Canadian Rocky, 143.
Lofoten 191;
Scotch, 220;
Irish, 226.
Mummery, A. F., 27;
explores western face of Nanga Parbat, 82;
ascends Diamirai peak, 97;
starts for Bunar, 105;
takes provisions up rocks of Nanga Parbat, 83, 109;
spends night on rocks of Nanga Parbat, 110, 114;
starts for ascent of Nanga Parbat, 113;
starts for Diama pass, 116;
probable fate of, 124;
climbing in Alps, 174;
climbing near Wastdale Head, 246.
Murree, 28.
Mustagh range, view of, 91, 128.
---- pass, 22.
---- tower, description of, 21.

N
Nanda Devi, 12, 16, 17, 18.
Nanga Parbat, 26;
view of from Kamri pass, 34;
glacier, 45;
south face, view of, 47;
western face, view of, 61;
Mummery explores western face, 82;
provisions left on, 83;
climbing on, 83;
avalanches on, 83, 111, 114, 124, 133;
attempted ascent of, 114;
northern face of, 120.
Nepaul, enormous peaks north of, 12, 16.
Nicholson, A., derivation of the name of the Coolin, 235.
Night out at 19,000 ft., 75.
Nun Kun peaks, 24, 29.
Nushik La crossed, 21.

O
Ottertail Range, 143.

P
Pennant, 213.
Phillip, Colin B., 233, 270, 273.
Pillar rock, climbing on, 251.
Pioneer peak, 20, 23.
Prairie, description of, 138.
Priestman, H., 191.
Pundim, 17, 19.
Punmah glacier, 15.

R
Ragee-Bogee Peaks ascended, 23.
Ragobir Thapa, 69, 82, 89, 113, 117, 124.
Rakiot nullah, 116;
arrive in, 120;
explore, 121.
Rakiot glacier, 120.
---- peak, 42.
Rakipushi, 127.
Ramghat, 127.
Rattu, 35.
Red pass, 118.
Robinson, J. W., 247, 255, 260.
Robson, description of Grampians by, 214.
Rocky Mountains, Canadian, 135;
future of, 137;
approach to, 138, 140;
travelling in, 150;
dense forests on west side of, 156.
Rosamir, head coolie, 116.
Rulten, 192;
attempted ascent of, 201.
Rupal nullah, arrival in, 38;
description of, 41;
journey up, 44.
---- peak, 42;
glacier, 42.

S
Samayar Glacier, 21.
Schlagintweit, Adolf and Robert, exploration of Himalaya, 12.
Screes, climb up the great gully of the, 254.
Selkirk mountains, 142.
Sella, Signor V., 24.
Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, climb on, 219.
Shallihuru glacier, 21.
Shandur pass, 35.
Sheep, price of, 59.
Shikara pass, 23.
Shikari, robbed by, 106.
Sickness, mountain, 11, 58, 98.
Siegfried Horn, ascent of, 24.
Simpson pass, 143.
Slieve League, climbing on, 230;
sea caves near, 231.
Slingsby, C., 247.
Solly, G., 252.
Spiti, 9.
Stewart, Capt., 125.
---- Lieut. C. G., Chitral Relief Expedition, 35.
Swat country, peaks in, 60, 81.

T
Tashing, 36, 40.
---- river crossed, 36.
---- glacier ascended, 70;
descended, 72.
Temple group mountains, 143, 145.
Thompson pass, 144.
Thosho pass, 39;
peak, 42.
Tirich Mir, 26;
seen from slopes of Nanga Parbat, 81.
Tragbal or Raj Diangan pass, 33.
Travers, M. W., 271.
Trisuli peaks, 17.
Trold Fjord, 199, 205.
Troldfjordvatn, 199, 205.
Tunkra pass, 12.

V
Vaage Kallen, 192.
Vermilion pass, 143.

W
Wapta Range, 144, 146.
Wastdale Head, climbing near, 245 _et seq._
Wicklow Mountains, 229, 242.
Woolar lake, description of, 31;
storm on, 32.
Woolley, H., 191.

Y
Younghusband, Captain F., climb with Major Bruce, 23.

Z
Zaipur, 36.
Zurbriggen, M., 20, 24.

Edinburgh: Printed by T. and A. CONSTABLE

Now Ready.

_In One Volume, Royal 8vo, with Illustrations, price 36s. net._

* * * * *

THE ALPS IN 1864
A PRIVATE JOURNAL

BY A. W. MOORE

EDITED BY ALEX. B. W. KENNEDY, LL.D., F.R.S.

MEMBER OF THE ALPINE CLUB

Moore's privately printed Journal of 1864 has long been one of the rarest and most coveted books of Alpine adventure. The Author was a climber of marvellous energy, and climbed, for the pure pleasure of climbing, in days when the Alps were not 'hung in chains,' and when virgin peaks and passes still remained in comparative plenty. Few of his contemporaries had so wide a knowledge of the mountains as he had, and few were able to make so many first ascents; while few, it may be said without offence, spoke and wrote of their doings in so simple, genial, and unaffected a fashion.

'The writer succeeds in bringing the actual
conditions of the climb home to the reader in a
manner calculated at times almost to take his
breath away. He makes one believe that it would
be possible to go and repeat the exact route
merely from his description. As we follow him
over the ice-wall and along the _arêtes_ of
the Ecrins, through the hurricanes on the Dom,
across the awful barrier of the Moming Pass, and
up the hanging glaciers of the Brenva, we feel
as if we were ourselves standing amid the snows
and rocks of the Alpine giants as we sit in our
arm-chair waiting till the return of a summer
holiday sends us once again to the happy hunting
ground.'--_Spectator._

'The work will prove not only a monument to the
memory of a man of rare culture, of great
public capacity, and of unusual mountaineering
experience, but also a notable addition to
permanent Alpine literature.'--_Birmingham Post._

'The keynote of the whole book is its frank, hearty,
straightforward naturalness. It breathes the
very air of the mountains, and is instinct
in every page with the spirit of the true
mountaineer.'--_Birmingham Gazette._

'Contains a better collection of Alpine plates than
we have ever before seen brought together in a
book. The volume would be worth buying for the
plates alone.'--_Times._

'One of the most vivid and fascinating books
of Alpine travel which has ever been
written.'--_Alpine Journal._

'Moore's book will be classed with the very best
in its department of literature with the works
of Mummery and Mr. Whymper and Mr. Leslie
Stephen.'--_Glasgow Herald._

'Mr. Moore was an ardent and successful mountain
climber,' with a remarkable topographical faculty
and a retentive and accurate memory. He wrote in
an easy style with much descriptive power and
quiet humour.'--_Standard._

* * * * *

_In Preparation, One Volume, with Illustrations_

A Book on Climbing in Norway

_with chapters on the physical features, etc., of the country_.

BY WM. CECIL SLINGSBY.

* * * * *

EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS, 10 CASTLE STREET.

* * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Obvious misspellings and omissions were corrected.

Errors in punctuation and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected unless otherwise noted.

The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up paragraphs and so that they are next to the text they illustrate.