Chapter VI: Introduction (5)

_3rd day._ By morning the soldiers had recovered and we continued our march to the Presidio, taking nine prisoners and sending the soldiers of the guard to their respective garrisons. One soldier accompanied Father Escude to his mission and another accompanied Father Cabot.

Mission San Juan Bautista, Dolores Pico
3 December 1815 (rubric)

FATHER MARTINEZ' EXPEDITION

The following five documents, all in the Bancroft Library, show clearly the confusion in the valley following the repeated expeditions of the preceding years, particularly those of 1815. The first, second, and third concern the Martinez sortie into the southern valley and include in full the original account by Father Martinez and the drastic criticism of his behavior by Father Cabot. The reader may form his own opinion with respect to the merits of the controversy.

The last two excerpts relate to minor and otherwise unrecorded incidents.

_Father Martinez' Report_

_Fr. Luis Antonio Martinez' to Prefect Sarria_
San Luis Obispo, May 29, 1816
(Alexander S. Taylor Papers. Archbishop's Office,
San Francisco. Doc. 489.)

My venerated Prelate and Sir:

I have just arrived from an ecclesiastical journey with good fortune, although not so much as I was expecting. The people through whose lands I have gone are not yet capable of reason, and prefer their state of misery to all the benefits available to them far from their rude and wretched dwellings.

In all the villages I saw I gave something to eat to everyone who presented himself; one, two, or even three ladles full of atole. I gave them presents. I treated them with as much loving-kindness as I could so as to mould them to my ultimate purpose, which was simply their own best interest.

The names of the villages are:[15] Lucluc, 28 leagues distant from the mission, at the edge of the plain; from here I went to Thuohuala, about 9 leagues; from here to Gelecto, about 9; from here to Lihuahilame, about 19; and from there to Quihuame, about 7. At this point we could not cross a big river (the source of which we did not see) which runs from north to south, and south to north. It makes a bend in the plain some 7 leagues from Telame. Its speed and the dense brush along its banks prevented our passage. It fills the lakes of Buenavista, of Gelecto, and of Thuohuala. In all our trip we did not see a good tree, nor wood enough to cook a meal, nor a stone, nor even grass enough for the horses, more than bunch grass, or what grows in the swamps. This big river ends as such in Buenavista Lake or loses itself in ponds and swamps. Along all the border of the plain [i.e., along the river] there is a great meadow a league wide, very heavily overgrown with brush. However, the lands through which the river runs are pure sand, without grass and utterly useless for any good purpose.

In the first village, Lucluc, we found about fifty Indians with their women and children. In this place they offered to bring me a small boy, after much begging and persuasion, and after I had given his parents two blankets, some ornaments, meat, etc. In the night the Indians sent a message for the following day, and in the morning we met the Indian Gabriel, as he was called by the soldiers, for he had gone with them on all the previous expeditions. He, with six other heathen Indians, accompanied us to the village of Thuohuala, which we found deserted except for one old woman on a mat, and a paralytic, whom they could not carry into the swamps. I was here three days, sending my Indians on sorties through the tule swamps. They brought me back about ten families, together with a sick man. The latter I ordered to be taken by my Indians to his house, covered with a wrap. I gave the others atole, making it clear that they should have no fear, that my trip was only for the purpose of visiting them and offering them the facilities of San Luis Mission together with the knowledge of the True God, without which no one can live well or enjoy any good fortune. I told them they should have no fear.

With my arguments I was able to acquire some seventy men, all warriors, but noticed that those whom I had taken out of the swamp during the night had gone elsewhere. Of the seventy whom I gathered with the help of the Indian Gabriel, no one ran away again. They ate and even slept with us in our camp. I knew where the women and the others were and I expressed the displeasure caused by seeing a friendly village run away from us. They unanimously maintained that a certain Chape and other old men were to blame for having spread the rumor that we wanted to kill them all. Nevertheless he himself [i.e., Chape] gave me and the corporal a little basket and we gave him some fish. During the time I was there, I gave him, in addition to the food, some beads. After this transaction I decided to continue my journey toward the village of Gelecto, where we found no trace of people except the cemetery, because they had destroyed the village in their wars. After spending the night here I went on to Telamni. This consumed the whole day (without anyone having a meal). Furthermore I had to endure showers falling on my back four times during this period.

Since we did not try to hide ourselves, the train of horses stirred up a great dust visible for several leagues. As soon as I arrived at Telamni, they observed us from Lihuahilami the Great. At that place there had been a big riot the day previously, as a result of which some eight men had been killed, among them the grandson of Quipagueces. For this reason they were very much worried for fear the father would come to avenge the murders. The chief sent me a message to inform me of this occurrence and I answered that he should not be concerned for I did not come to do harm to anyone nor [would I] permit anyone else to hurt them. I wanted only to see them and offer them the services of the mission. This chief had me summoned to request that I place the camp close to his village, which would contain about three hundred married men. The next day I went into it and everyone received us with pleasure. I talked to them of religious matters and they said to me that [illegible][16] they were made Christians, but that it had to be there. Three of them who wanted to go with me presented themselves and they started out very happy. When we reached the village of Quihuama, the chief, who already knew I was coming, had hidden the people in the brush. While I was dismounting, he had caused them to drop their clothing and flee to the thickets. In consequence I was not able to speak to anyone.

I was now about six leagues from Telame and was hemmed in by a big river, which afforded no transit anywhere. It runs along the northern side of the valley and forms a lake and swamps where the plain obstructs its flow. I decided to turn back, for to persist in going on to Telame would mean a long detour. So I went back, accomplishing the operation without any event worth mentioning, as far as the village of our friends at Thuohuala, called, in the language of San Miguel, Hubal. There we found that the village had moved. Since on my first visit I had departed on such good terms with these people, I was the more astonished at their fickleness. I decided to send some Indians to let them know I was there and that I would like to see them all together. They received these poor fellows with arrows and, if the latter had not carried with them their leather shields to defend themselves, not a one would have got back to the camp (they were below Hubal at a village called Pusas). They quickly sent word to me at the camp. The corporal and six men went out but found no one there. My Indians did not use weapons against anyone and made no more resistance than to seize arrows and take bows out of the hands of those who were offending. They took three prisoners, two women and a man, who, according to the story, were all yelling "Kill the Playanos!" [Playanos, people from the coast.] The next day the village was burned and everything in it destroyed because the people in it had taken up arms against those who had treated them well. One Indian was slightly wounded in the head; two horses were hit by arrows, one rather seriously, and another stolen with the saddle, together with all those from which the riders had dismounted in order to deliver my message.[17] This village deserves severe punishment.

In all the land we have covered there is neither good water to drink nor stones nor firewood, even enough to cook a meal, except in the river bottom. The latter is overgrown with cottonwoods and willows but there is no land fit for sowing crops because everywhere is sand.

The foregoing, my respected Prelate, is the information I have to give you concerning my journey. I cannot forget that in all the time I was away there was nothing but a miserable supper at night and chocolate in the morning, that in the day I was weak and tired with traveling and in the night, no matter what protection I used, I was soaking wet till after my prayers. Nevertheless, may this all be for the greater honor and glory of God, our Lord, who, with all these labors ... [illegible] ... arrived at San Luis....

May your health..., etc.

This is a copy Fr. L. de Martinez

_Father Cabot's Report_

_Fr. Juan Cabot to Prefect_
San Miguel, June 1, 1816
(Archbishop's Arch., III (1): 213-216)

He says[18] that when Father Luis [Martinez] was returning from the
village of Bubas he encountered six vaqueros whom he [i.e., Cabot]
was sending to the village mentioned to locate the cattle which had
reached there and to visit the heathen Indians. The said Father
[Martinez] told them to go back, for otherwise the Indians would
kill them. The vaqueros however kept on their way for "he who fears
nothing, owes nothing" [_el que nada teme, nada debe_]. They were
very well received and slept among them [the Indians] without
trouble. While [they were] there the Indians related to them that
the vaqueros of San Luis [i.e., those accompanying the Martinez
party] prior to arriving at the village, suddenly broke out in
violence along the edge of the tule swamps. They tried to stop the
people from escaping but, since that was not possible, they dragged
out all they could with lassos and ropes and drove them to the
village. In terror, many people, principally women and children,
tried to jump into the water. These were then held back with clubs
and the infants were thrown either into the water or onto the
ground. One youth they tied up and whipped and he still has the
wounds on his back. In spite of this the Indians undertook no
reprisals. Then one of them escaped into the swamp, whereupon he
was followed on foot and on horseback in an attempt to catch him.

At this the chief could no longer keep in check the anger of the
Indians and they began to shoot arrows at those from San Luis, not
with the object of killing them but to make them retreat. In this
they succeeded, and the others began a wild flight, some on horses,
some on foot, even to one who "pulled off his pants so he could run
faster." They left their horses and harnesses. They [the villagers]
did not want to kill anyone. A prisoner whom they captured was set
free with the statement: "Go with your comrades for we do not want
to kill you." Afterward they carried out of the swamp all the
material they had captured so that the other group could pick it up
when they returned, as indeed they did the following day. There were
lost only two horses, one shield, a hat, spurs, reins, and a pair of
trousers; the latter was found after the troops had gone. All these
items were turned over to the vaqueros [of Father Cabot] so that
they might deliver them to the people of San Luis. Nevertheless the
Indians said that the troops had burned their village, scattered
their grain, and smashed their jars and grinding stones. On account
of all this they were in a state of the greatest misery and fear
lest the troops come back and kill them. Unless they were told what
to do within a week, they would have to leave their village to go
and die at the hands of other wild Indians.

He [Father Cabot] states that tomorrow he is going to send an
alcalde to them to tell them not to be afraid and to trust the pious
efforts of the Governor. He thinks those heathen are not at all to
blame, judging by the docility, hospitality, kindness, and affection
with which they treat the white men. His mission converts visit them
without any harm and they also are accustomed to go to the mission,
where he is then successful in baptizing some of them. The heathen
say that if a mission were to be established for them, in the Tulare
Valley, not only they but also many of their neighbors would have
themselves made Christians. Finally, if the wild Indians shot
arrows, it was in the exercise of their rights, for they were
defending themselves against the annoyances perpetrated upon them.
He [Father Cabot] believes that unless the Governor "is made
acquainted with the truth, he may order them chastised, and for
that very reason he begs that the matter be brought speedily to
his attention."

_Father Martinez' Rebuttal_

_Fr. Luis Antonio Martinez to the Governor_
San Luis Obispo, June 10, 1816
(Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 218-220)

This is an answer to the charges raised by Father Juan Cabot concerning the affair at Bubal. There are no new facts introduced, merely a polemic against his unjust accusers and a reiteration that he proceeded correctly and that the heathen were full of malice.

MINOR SORTIES

_Fr. Antonio Jaime to Governor Sola_
La Soledad, March 30, 1816
(Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 190-191)

... telling him that last night Regidor Socio arrived from the
Tulare Valley.[19] He brought back the missing Christians with the
exception of three women and their husbands, one because she had
just given birth to a child and the other two because their children
were sick. Three others are still missing, named Marcos, Pastor, and
Justo. These are at the village of Cuonam where there are numerous
horses run off by Sebero and Pedro Pablo from the herd of San Juan.
These same individuals in the night ran off twenty horses of the
herd recovered by Socio and the _Capilar_ Tape. Three _capilares_
arrived, one Tape of the village Cutuchu, another Thizac of Tache,
and the other Qucurlac of Culache.[20] The heathen are in all
thirty-three. The _capilares_ want to go on to Monterey with the
heathen Indians to talk to the Governor.

After Easter the latter will return with them. They brought back
ten horses lost on the expedition and turned them over to Corporal
Sebastian.

_Fr. Marcelino Marquinez to Governor Sola_
Santa Cruz, December 13, 1816
(Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 264-265)

... notifying him [the Governor] of the pleasure he had, yesterday
and day before yesterday, because some forty sons of his mission
who had run away returned. They are natives of the villages of
Malime,[21] Chaneh, and Lucham. With them came others, heathen
(men and women) of Malime. That village has now been abandoned
permanently, for they have "left neither old men nor old women, nor
blind, nor deaf, nor dogs," nor is there anything to cause them to
return. Some of them went to the village of Tasnil looking for a
Christian boy whose relatives had previously taken him there. The
searchers were told that he was in a village farther on. There now
began a lively battle in which the Christians killed four heathen
and took away from them two horses, one from Rancho Carmel and one
from the town.

The pleasure of Father Jaime is great but his happiness has not been
complete because there are still missing many Christians from the
village of Notoalh who have withdrawn far into the mountains,
fearing a surprise attack by the troops, among whom is Egidio,
the accomplice of Chivero....

EXPEDITION TO THE DELTA, 1817

There follow herewith the two documents relating to the joint expedition to the delta in 1817. This was the final purely exploratory effort in the area. By 1820 most of the channels and landmarks were well known and river navigation offered few obstacles. By this time the Indians, except those along the eastern margin from Sacramento to Stockton, had been converted or driven out and little remained to interest the white man.

_Father Narciso Duran's Diary. 1817_

This manuscript of six pages is entitled "Diario de la expedicion de reconocimiento hecha ... en los ... rios del Sacramento y San Joaquin." It is the diary of exploration of the delta region by Fr. Narciso Duran and Lieutenant Luis Arguello. The two explorers started out together but later separated and still later reunited. Each kept an account, this one being that of Father Narciso. It should be studied in conjunction with that of Lieutenant Arguello. There are many points of disagreement which cannot be discussed in detail.

It is to be noted that Father Fray Ramon Abella accompanied Father Duran on this expedition.

Diary of the expedition of reconnaissance made to the rivers Sacramento and San Joaquin.

_Viva Jesus._

Diary of the expedition of exploration made in the month of May of 1817 by the Commandant of the Royal Presidio of our Father San Francisco, Lieutenant Don Luis Arguello, with his launch San Rafael, alias "The Fine One," and by the Fathers Fray Ramon Abella, minister of the Mission of Our Father of San Francisco, and Fray Narciso Duran, minister of San Jose, with the launch named San Jose, alias "The Fisherman," in the only two rivers which enter the Port of Our Father San Francisco, called the Sacramento and the San Joaquin.

_13th day of May._ We left the beach at the Presidio at ten o'clock in the morning of this day with a fresh wind, which lasted until we had crossed the entrance of the port. By rowing we arrived at twelve o'clock at the big island of Los Angeles [Angel Island], where we ate lunch. At five o'clock in the afternoon we left the island, and having passed Point San Pablo, which is on the side of the mainland of San Jose, we stopped at eight o'clock in the evening, having gone in the entire day six leagues toward the northeast.

_14th day._ We set out at six o'clock in the morning, and with a light wind we arrived at noon at the end of the strait of the Chupcanes [i.e., Carquinez Strait]. The village of this name is Christian, part at San Jose, part at San Francisco. It is fourteen leagues distant from the latter and seventeen leagues north-northeast of the former.

After lunch we set out with a fresh wind, which became strong by the middle of the afternoon, in the direction of the Ompines toward the east. In this area one recognizes the mouths of the only two rivers which flow through this strait to the Port: one comes from the north and northeast and is called the Sacramento, the other from the east and southeast and is called the San Joaquin. I say they are the only two rivers, for it seems that the many openings and branches which form so many islands of brush and tulares, as well also as some other rivers which are found here, all come to discharge their water into the two rivers mentioned. Thus although the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada form certain rivers, as has been stated, nevertheless all of them lose their identity and are lost in the two principal rivers just described.

In the meantime, night having approached and the boat of the Commandant having gone ahead, he stopped on the mainland of San Jose at the mouth of the San Joaquin. We two Fathers in the other boat followed the route agreed upon, and took the mouth of the Sacramento so as to reach the opposite shore in the land of the Ompines. However, although we passed near the other boat and saw their fire, it was not possible to go back on account of the high wind. We landed on an island of tule which was flooded when the tide rose and had to take refuge in a bramble patch to protect ourselves against the water until it went down. We spent a very difficult night, although cheerfully, and a no better one was passed by the Commandant, for, although with us it was water without fire, with him it was wind without shelter.

All this day we went twelve leagues northeast and east.

_15th day._ The storm lasted all night. At five o'clock in the morning the Commandant arrived to join us. He got here with the main mast broken but, the Lord be thanked, without greater misfortune. It seems almost a miracle that when it fell it did not break someone's head or kill someone. We set out soon to search for a place suitable for saying Mass, for this was the day of the Ascension. Having gone five or six leagues up the Sacramento ahead of the same wind, we landed on dry land, where Mass was said. But because this place was very exposed and cold we set forth after lunch, in the middle of the afternoon, and arrived by dark at the end of the hills of the Ompines, the latter serving us as a shelter from the storm.[22] This place is called "Los Ciervos." About a league before getting there the launch San Jose struck a submerged log, which scared us. However, on later examination, no damage was found, thank God! We went in this day eight leagues east and northeast.[23]

_16th day._ The storm from the northwest continued all night and at dawn left the sky covered with heavy clouds and almost raining. We left under a light breeze at eight o'clock in the morning, going northeast. At the end of a league we came to an opening to the starboard, which led to the east. This is said to be a bend in the main river. If that were true, then we would know that this river is the one which encircles the Island of the Quenemsias. We followed a branch which runs toward the north and northwest, with the intention of investigating the village of the Chucumnes. At the end of another league we encountered another opening, or arm, to port, which at first seemed to us to lead to the village mentioned. Nevertheless we left this opening and continued along the branch we had been following. We saw during this morning some boats with people and some houses empty of people, because at the noise of the launches they cleared out. At six leagues we reached another opening to the starboard, running northeast. Either the latter or the one previously mentioned is that which forms the main Sacramento River. We passed by the latter and kept along the same one we had been navigating. The whole river is made a great grove by the number and luxuriance of the trees, although only with difficulty can one get to shore. Everything is flooded owing to the rise in the rivers caused by the melting of the snow pack [in the mountains]. We stopped at six o'clock in the afternoon, having rowed eight leagues to the north, northeast, and occasionally northwest.[24]

_17th day._ All night the wind blew hard. We set out at six o'clock in the morning. After one league we came upon the opening which we passed yesterday on our left hand. A little while afterward we found the village of the Chucumnes, although it was deserted. We counted 35 houses, some 20, 40, or 50 paces in circumference, a fact which indicates a large number of people. We called to the heathen but no one appeared. This village is in a place where the river subdivides into three other branches. One goes to the south, which is the one I say we passed yesterday on the left, another goes to the west but we do not know where it ends, although it is supposed that, making a turn to the southwest, it goes to join the southerly branch. The other goes north.

Having eaten we started again at two o'clock in the afternoon and took the branch to the north. The great meadow of yesterday still continues and both banks are flooded. At six o'clock we stopped opposite a slough which is said to lead to the village of the Ylamnes. We went during the entire day no more than four leagues, because the river flows with a strong current. The direction today has been northwest, north, and northeast.[25]

_18th day._ After having said Mass, since it was Sunday, we set out in the same direction upstream, northeast. At the end of a league (which cost us much labor to cover on account of the great force of the current) we entered the main Sacramento River which runs from north to south. It is the same one we left on the 6th to the right hand, or starboard, although I cannot decide which of the two channels it was, whether the first or the last. We kept on up the river, which is very wide and of great depth, and at half a league we stopped to eat. Hardly had we finished eating when suddenly our people became very much excited, saying that the heathen Indians were coming to annoy us. But no one appeared. We started out again at two o'clock in the afternoon. After going a league we found an opening to the right which makes a turn and joins the river again two leagues upstream.[26] About five o'clock we descried the well-known Sierra Nevada to the northeast through a clearing in the trees which border the river. The whiteness of the mountains seemed to everyone to be snow, although the range contains also (as is said) a kind of white rock which resembles the latter [i.e., snow]. We kept on a little farther up and stopped at sunset, having gone in the day some five leagues northeast, north, and northwest.[27]

_19th day._ We started at seven o'clock in the morning and continued upstream. After going one league we came upon a village called Chuppumne on the east bank, the inhabitants of which fled at the sound of the boats, leaving only two old women more than sixty years old. After catechizing these, I baptized them because it seemed to us that they were likely to die before Divine Providence could provide another occasion upon which they might be baptized in a mission. We left this village at ten o'clock and stopped to eat at noon. We started out again at two o'clock in the afternoon and in the distance saw two villages with people and another, for some time abandoned and covered with water. The river is very high and so flooded on both sides that one can scarcely get ashore. We stopped at sunset having during the day traveled ten leagues north and northwest.[28]

_20th day._ We started up the river at six o'clock in the morning with the intention of finding an open spot where a cross might be set up, and where we might cease our ascent of the river, turn around, and retreat downstream. After three leagues, when the launches were close to the western shore, some rafts were noticed in a near-by tule swamp. On going to investigate these some [of our Indian] converts came upon a village of heathen, who fell upon them with weapons and with the ferocious screams to which they are accustomed. Quickly the Commandant went with the troops and the other converts to talk to them. They were pacified and explained themselves, saying that they had taken up arms thinking that we were enemies. They presented us with _torous_, which is a kind of roasted soap root, and came in peace, telling us that a little higher up was their village and that there they would wait for us in order to give us fish. We had our meal and then set out, going a league higher up. But we did not encounter or see a village or a heathen Indian except a poor old man, sleeping under a tree, who had not yet heard our boats. We gave him some pinole and sent him on his way. Seeing that no one was coming, we made a cross on an oak tree. The cross having been consecrated and worshiped by our company, served to mark the limit of our upward journey. At this place it appears to be possible to approach by land in the dry season, because although in the immediate vicinity tules are to be seen, nevertheless probably everything is dry by October for there is no water other than the overflow from the river. It is therefore to be supposed that from here on it is better to follow the course of the river by land than by water. In this manner the immense expanse of land may be explored which extends to the end of the Sierra Nevada and which likely is inhabited by innumerable heathen. Once the entrance to the Sierra is discovered, which the end seems to offer as a probability, it would be possible to test the truth of the story which the Indians have told for many years that on the other side of the Sierra Nevada there are people like our soldiers. We have never been able to decide definitely whether they are Spaniards from New Mexico, Englishmen from the Columbia, or Russians from Bodega.

From here we could make out at about ten leagues northwest the very high hill called Jesus Maria by the troops who have passed near its slopes. It is entirely covered with snow.[29] It is said that near by flows a large river of the same name which enters the Sacramento River, and it is to be suspected that it is a branch of the Columbia. This I heard from some soldier, and it may be true. We went upstream today four leagues north and northwest.

At four o'clock in the afternoon we began to descend, and at sunset we stopped on the west bank opposite the place where we stopped on the 18th, having gone fourteen leagues in three or four hours on account of the great force of the current. The direction is south and southeast.[30]

_21st day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning and in a little while encountered on the right hand the slough through which on the 18th we entered the main river. Leaving the latter and following the former [i.e., the main river, to the left], after one league we came to a rancheria called that of the Ochejamnes, which had forty houses but no people. A little while thereafter we passed the head of the Island of the Quenemsias.[31] Here we left the main Sacramento River, which runs to the southwest, on the right hand and took a channel to the southeast at the entrance to which in the year ... the heathen Indians murdered Julio, the alcalde of San Jose. The launches got through with effort on account of the many logs in the channel. At six leagues we came upon the village of the Guaypens, with a few people, where we baptized seven souls, all aged, invalids, or children. Here we had lunch and, having started again at three o'clock in the afternoon, we stopped at the place called "Las Cruces." It was our intention on the next day to reach the San Joaquin River and ascend it as far as the village of the Passasimas. We went in all today fifteen leagues, south and southeast.[32]

_22nd day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning and, shortly after reaching the end of the branch, or slough, in which we were traveling yesterday, we found another coming in from the northeast on the left side. We passed this and followed south and southeast through a very broad channel which leads to the San Joaquin River. Here the launches separated. That of the Commandant directed its way to the west and northwest in order to reconnoitre two or three islands in which are living hidden some fugitives from San Jose. We with the other launch, took a south and southeasterly direction, ascending the San Joaquin River, with the intention of scouting the villages of the tule swamps. At four o'clock we halted in a very muddy spot on account of the extreme heat, which was exhausting the oarsmen. We started out again at six o'clock with the idea of traveling all night.

_23rd day._ We went all night, except for a while during which we stopped in the boat itself, and at eight o'clock [in the morning] we arrived near the village of the Passasimas. During the night we passed on our right the village of the Nototemnes, who are already Christians in San Jose and who were living almost in the middle of the tule swamps. On the left hand we passed the Tauquimnes and Yatchicomnes and on the same side live the Passasimas previously mentioned. A little to the northeast of these are the Mokelumnes. Some of the Passasimas came out to greet us in peace. This is not strange because they have been many times in the mission [San Jose] and several of them have been baptized. After breakfast we went on foot to visit some of their houses, where I baptized four heathen sixty or seventy years of age. Then, having commended them to God and having pointed out the necessity that they consider being made Christians, we returned to the boat, accompanied by the Indians. Here they told us again the story of how, on the other side of the Sierra Nevada (from which we were perhaps ten leagues distant) there were white men. But no definite conclusions could be reached, as was set forth on May 20.

At four o'clock in the afternoon we embarked, returning by the same way we had come. In a short distance 113 heathen Indians were waiting for us, Yatchicomnes and Mokelumnes. Half of them were painted and armed as for war. We approached, and after we had talked to them they put down their weapons and begged for peace. These heathen live mostly on solid ground and they could be visited on horseback if this became necessary. They penetrate to the slopes of the Sierra Nevada and state that the whiteness one sees is rock and not snow. However, it is most probable that the Sierra has both snow and white rock which resembles it. At six o'clock we bade them farewell, giving them some wheat, etc. They promised us that they would come and make a visit to the mission. During yesterday and the previous night we must have covered eleven or twelve leagues toward the south and southeast. We traveled hard all night, going north and northwest.[33]

_24th day._ At dawn we found ourselves on approximately the same parallel as that where we were at the start of the trip of the 22nd. At eight o'clock we arrived at the place called "Los Meganos"[34] opposite the Julpunes. Here we ate breakfast. At noon we started out to meet the Commandant in the Strait of the Chupcanes [Carquinez Strait], which we reached at six o'clock in the afternoon. There we met the gentleman mentioned, he having got there in the morning. The region traversed this afternoon is the mouth of the San Joaquin, and it must be crossed at high tide because it contains a shoal on which boats run aground. The difference noticed between the Sacramento River and the San Joaquin is that the latter carries a smaller volume of water, although in some places it is wider. All that we have passed is nothing but pure tule swamp, without a tree under which the wanderer will find shade or a stick of wood with which to warm himself. On the other hand, the Sacramento, when it is not flooded, has dry land on both banks, with groves of trees as before described, and seems to carry a greater volume of water. We covered during the preceding night and during the day twenty leagues north, northwest, and west.

_25th day._ At dawn of this day of the Pentecost Mass was sung and thereafter again the Praefacio so that during the next two days Mass should not be lacking. We set out at nine o'clock with a headwind. It was quite hard navigating through the whole strait, which will be about two leagues long and one half, more or less, wide. After leaving the strait the sea was fair and at three o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at a place called Olegario Point near Angel Island. Here we stopped after having traveled some ten leagues toward the southwest.

_26th day._ At two o'clock in the morning, before the tide had finished going out, we passed the narrow entrance of the harbor, arriving almost by dawn at the beach of the Presidio. After having said Mass at the latter place we returned to the Mission of Our Father San Francisco with all good fortune, thanks to the Lord, to whom be the Glory forever and ever, Amen.

Fr. Narciso Duran
(rubric)

_Luis Arguello's Report_

The second report of the expedition to the delta is a document whose title page states that it is a letter to the Governor, Don Pablo Vicente de Sola, and "incorporates" a diary of the expedition, which was "in company with Frays Narciso Duran and Ramon Abella." The account is signed by Luis Antonio Arguello and was undoubtedly written by him. The style indicates that the letter incorporates a revision or abstract of Arguello's diary rather than an actual copy of it (see the introduction to the letter).

The existence of two accounts of the same expedition is unusual--indeed, unique. Despite personal controversies the two narratives complement each other. Each brings out detail omitted by the other.

_Luis Antonio Arguello to Governor Pablo Vicente de Sola_
San Francisco, May 26, 1817

Consequent upon the orders which I received officially from you on April 11, ultimo, I accompanied the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran on the expedition which at the request of the said Reverend Father Duran you authorized, and which was carried out. His diary, although I have abstracted it in brief form so that you may take into consideration all the distance we have covered, you will nevertheless use, as appears most convenient to you for the purposes you have in mind. We explored these, and other lands which up till the present have been considered unknown, swarming with heathen who are overwhelmed with error and who are without the least knowledge of God, who has placed us under the conquering banner of the most Catholic and pious monarch of all those who rule in our universe, our dearly beloved sovereign and Lord, Ferdinand the Seventh. This is with the sole object of propagating our holy religion and for which pious purpose I am ready to sacrifice my comfort and my life and all the power of my mind.

With regard to this expedition which has just been completed, although you intended, as I understood according to the content of your eminent official letter, that outstanding results were to be expected, nevertheless in my opinion although the outcome was in no way unfavorable, neither was it of much value. Despite the fact that I had wished at least to make a careful survey and compile a detailed account I found myself completely prevented from accomplishing this. The reason was that I soon saw myself unable to direct my own going and coming. In consequence, since I was not able to operate according to my own wishes so as to give Your Excellency an exact account of all those lands and heathen tribes, I declined to formulate a document which could at any time be protested as defective for lack of exact and fully detailed examination of the country. I did nothing else but go where the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran wanted to go, and since my orders specified only that I should accompany him it seemed to me, in order to maintain harmonious relations, that I had to follow the desires of the Reverend Father mentioned. I felt that this was your intention and wish, for the expedition was organized upon the request of the said Reverend Father Duran. Thus, although I curbed my propensity to explore, it seemed to me proper to compose a day-by-day account, of which I make an exact copy.[35]

We started out, then, on the 13th day of the present month, between eleven and twelve o'clock in the morning and traveled to the north for twenty-one miles. We anchored for the night at Point San Pablo at eight o'clock. After an hour the launch "Josefina" of our convoy joined us, carrying the Reverend Fathers Fray Ramon Abella and Fray Narciso Duran.

The following day, the 14th, we set sail at six o'clock in the morning to the north and after going through Carquinez Strait we pointed east, one quarter northeast. The wind freshened considerably as the sun went down and the launch "Josefina" of our convoy fell behind so that it became necessary for me to shorten sail. Since even this did not permit them to catch up, we had to anchor at the strait which separates the bays of Suisun and of the Ompines and wait until the launch "Josefina" came up much later. As soon as it joined us we set out again. I ordered sail shortened as much as I could, but the wind freshened considerably so that soon the other launch fell behind again. Our launch suddenly ran aground on a shoal half a mile distant from the mainland on the side of Mission San Jose. However, we started again soon and by sounding we came upon the channel, which had sufficient water and which followed closely the same shore. While engaged in this operation, we were joined again by the "Josefina" which, according to the signs they made, had been heading toward the shore. We followed along the shore and by dark we saw that the launch "San Jose" had again fallen far behind. The night fell and the wind was quite strong, with consequently considerable swell. I held closer to the shore in order to search for some kind of shelter. This we found and anchored at half-past eight in the evening. Immediately I caused signals to be made to the other launch so that it might join us but without success. So, without much regard to comfort, I maintained my position until three o'clock in the morning of the following day. In this day we traveled sixty miles.[36]

At three o'clock in the morning of the 15th, as I have said, in spite of the strong wind I made arrangements to start out in search of the launch "San Jose" and, after we had traveled toward the north with a quite strong southwesterly gale and in a heavy sea, a gust of wind came so strong that it broke off the mainmast. It carried the sail and all the gear into the water. At the same time the sheets of the foremast were lost. However, by a sharp maneuver we made fast the sheets of the foremast and recovered the mainsail, which had gone into the water with a piece of the mast. We continued navigating with the foremast alone toward the north. There was no other misfortune than that just described of a broken mainmast, and [the loss of] the hat of a soldier which in the flurry fell into the water and could not be recovered on account of the high wind and waves.

At six o'clock in the morning we caught sight of the launch "San Jose," which had taken shelter at a very swampy island full of water. Half an hour after we descried them we joined them and found the Reverend Fathers and the soldiers who were embarked with them. They were in a very sad and pitiful situation for all night they had been unable to find a hand's breadth of land on which to lie down. After they had related the miseries and fatigues of the preceding night, both Fathers transferred to my boat. We then turned northeast, close to the coast of the Ompines, in search of another and better shelter where we might anchor and land in order to say Mass. The wind did not abate its fury and in this fashion we sailed eighteen miles. Having taken an entrance to the main Sacramento River, we stopped in the land of the Ompines at ten-thirty in the morning and constructed a chapel, where Mass was sung in all solemnity. Reverend Father Fray Ramon Abella celebrated Mass and Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran officiated with appropriate music, the troops all being under arms.

At half-past five in the afternoon of this day we embarked, going toward the north, with a few turns to the northeast, according to the bends of the river. We may have traveled eleven miles when we anchored at half-past eight at the point where the land of the Ompines ends, having skirted its shore all day.[37]

At seven o'clock in the morning of the 16th we set forth up the river always in a northerly direction with a few turns east-northeast and northwest. At five miles we passed a mouth, or arm, of the river which came from the northeast and joined that along which we were traveling, which runs north and south. Three miles farther on we descried some rafts of Indians, who immediately concealed themselves in the bushes along the riverbank. Right away we attacked them and jumped ashore to see if we could catch some, but the underbrush hindered us, for everything is covered with water and we could not follow them. They threw away all their equipment and belongings, but none of it was of value. We soon reembarked and followed upstream. At two miles we saw another river, which united with that which we were pursuing and which came from the northwest. We wanted to enter and explore it, but the Reverend Fathers did not wish to do this, so we continued following the same stream and halted at six o'clock in the afternoon. In the entire day we navigated fifteen miles without incident.

At six-thirty in the morning of the 17th we started up the river and at three miles we found an opening which separated from the river we were following and ran to the northwest. Suddenly we came upon a village on the west bank of the river. We thought it might contain some people and with great care we went ashore. However, we found it empty of its inhabitants, for all without doubt had fled as soon as they saw us. This village consists of thirty-six houses or huts of tule matting. After making some inquiries as to whether we might be able to catch and talk to any of the heathen, and being unsuccessful, we set sail. We followed a bend of the river to the northeast, passing by the mouth of the other channel, which separates here and runs to the northwest; the latter seems to me to be the one which we left behind us yesterday and which turns so as again to unite with the main stream of the river. We stopped at seven o'clock in the evening at a ruined village, at the end of the northeasterly bend of the river which from this point trends toward the east. We will have traveled during the whole day no more than seven miles. The current flows very rapidly because of the quantity of water carried by the river, which is at a very high level.

At ten-thirty in the morning of the 18th, after having heard Mass celebrated by the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran, we set out, following the bend of the river to the east, and at two miles we observed that the river on which we are traveling is a branch of the main Sacramento River, which here separates and takes a northwesterly direction. It gives off the opening, or slough, which we left behind yesterday and continues northwest, as I have said. The channel which we pursued makes a turn to the south and thus goes on to unite with the other channel and flow into the Bay of the Ompines.

At the bend and at the point where we rejoin the main Sacramento River, as stated, it contained a much greater quantity of water and has greater width. It here flows north and south. Here we saw two little rafts, which fled downstream at full speed, and we could not see where they went because our view was cut off by the bend of the river we were following. We went on northward and two miles beyond, where we joined the main channel of the Sacramento River, we stopped at twelve o'clock noon. While I was having lunch here with the Reverend Fathers, I was told that many armed heathen were coming to meet us and were ready to attack us. I immediately ordered the troops to prepare for them but they did not arrive, nor could I see them. So it seemed to me to be an exaggeration on the part of the Indian sailors, who, with their little courage and in terror at seeing themselves in a land swarming with so many heathen Indians, thought we must be ambushed since we were so exposed. I ordered sentinels to be sent on ahead in all directions to advise me of any advance on the part of the heathen, for the terrain was very favorable to them. This was because of the very dense thickets and the immense tule swamps, all submerged and covered with water, which have extended as far as we have come.

We stayed here until four o'clock, after which we started out and continued up the river until dark when we stopped. We may have covered this day sixteen miles, without incident.

At six o'clock on the morning of the 19th we started up the river toward the north, with an occasional turn east, northeast, or northwest. At eight o'clock in the morning, having gone about three miles, we descried several little rafts, which by rowing hid themselves along the northwest bank of the river. Suddenly we noticed a village to the east, some three hundred paces from the riverbank. We landed with every precaution, for we perceived that there were people there. Although we were held up by a slough which branches from the river itself and passes between the latter and the village, we got across on the shoulders of the Indian sailors. When we reached the village, its inhabitants had already escaped into the underbrush and the tule swamps. Only two old and very feeble women were to be found, who, after being preached to, were baptized by the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran. After giving them a few beans and peas, I instructed them to tell their chiefs and other people of the village that on their return they should wait for us there. I said that they should not desert their houses, that we would make them gifts, and that we would visit them without doing any harm to them. Having thus convinced them [the old women], we left them in the village. Following our course, we noticed that the heathen were appearing in crowds along the riverbank, without doubt at the news of our boats. We stopped at seven o'clock in the evening, having sailed during this entire day about twenty-eight miles.

At six o'clock in the morning of the 20th we set out up the river, no doubt at the insistence of the Reverend Father Fray Ramon Abella, for already on the afternoon of the previous day, the Reverend Father Fray Narciso wanted to turn back. Although I regretted it, I did not find it advisable to continue farther upstream. Although we were already seeing the Sierra Nevada and my desire was to reach it, carefully examine the river in the interior of the range, discover the direction it has at its exit, and at least get acquainted with the lands and heathen population which would be encountered before reaching the mountains, nevertheless I supported the request of the said Reverend Father Duran in order not to oppose his desire to return.