Chapter VII: Check Patterns

101. Utility of Check Styles--102. Principles of
Checking--103. Several Styles of Checks. CHECKS
COMPOSED OF TWO COLOURS--104. Forms of Checking in
Two Shades--105. Common Check--106. Modification of
Common Check--107. Check consisting of Two Sizes of
Squares--108. Pattern composed of Solid Squares and
of an Over-check--109. Counter-change Check--110.
Compound Checking--111. Gradated Check--112. Broken
Check in Two Colours--113. Basket Check. CHECKS
COMPOSED OF THREE OR MORE COLOURS--114. Principle
of Checking with Three Colours--115. Ordinary
Three-shade Check--116. Set Check--117. Compound
Checking in Three Shades--118. Counter-change Check
in Three Shades--119. Interchanging Check--120.
Counter-change with Over-check. SHADED AND
IRREGULAR CHECKS--121. Shaded Check in Black and
White Cassimere Twill--122. Shaded Cheek in Two
Colours due to using Designs composed of Various
Weaves--123. Irregular and Mixture Checks--124.
Fancy Broken Check--125. Examples in the Colouring
of Tartans--126. Types of Tartans--127. Two-colour
Plaids--128. Three-colour Plaids-129. Four-colour
Plaids--130. Five-, Six-, and Seven-colour Plaids 119-158

CHAPTER VIII.

SIMPLE COLOURINGS.

131. Simple and Compound Colourings--132. Regular Simple
Colourings--133. One-and-One and Two-and-Two
Systems--134. Figured Styles in Common Weaves
and One-and-One Colouring--135. Utility of the
One-and-One Principle in Figured Textiles--136.
One-and-One and Two-and-Two Colourings in Fancy
Weaves--137. Three-and-Three Colouring--138.
Four-and-Four Arrangement--139. Four-and-Four Method
applied to Fancy Weaves--140. Six-and-Six and
Eight-and-Eight Schemes--141. Six-and-Six Colouring
in Various Crossings--142. Three-Odd-Thread
Arrangement--143. Various Three-Shade Patterns--144.
Simple Colourings, composed of Four Shades--145.
Irregular Simple Colourings--146. Irregular Simple
Patterns of Two Shades--147. “Irregulars” composed
of Three Shades--148. “Irregulars” composed of Four
Shades--149. Cross Wefting 159-191

CHAPTER IX.

COMPOUND COLOURINGS.

150. Compounds--151. Compounds composed of Three Types
of Elementary Colouring--152. Results of Combining
Simple Colourings--153. Compounds and Weave
Combinations compared--154. Utility of a Practical
Acquaintance with the Woven Effects of Simple
Colourings--155. Compound Patterns subjective to
the Nature of the Fabrics Manufactured--156. Types
of Compounds--157. Compounds composed of Two Simple
Types--158. Patterns composed of Two Types and Three
Shades--159. Styles of Four Shades containing Two
Simple Types--160. Styles composed of Three Simple
Types--161. Irregular Compounds 192-219

CHAPTER X.

FANCY SHADES APPLIED TO SPECIAL DESIGNS.

162. Colour applied to Special Makes--163. Colouring
of Corkscrews--164. Modified Corkscrews--165.
Fancy Woollen Weaves--166. Granite Effects--167.
Diagonals--168. Diagonals composed of Plain and
Double Plain Makes--169. Stripe and Check Colourings
on Diagonals--170. Methods of Colouring Fancy Weaves
for Cottons or Silks--171. Gauze Textures--172.
Systems of Colouring Gauzes--173. Imitation or Mock
Gauzes--174. Colour in relation to Rib or Cord
Styles 220-243

CHAPTER XI.

COLOURING OF COMBINATION DESIGNS.

175. Principles of Colouring Weave-Combinations--176.
Examples in Colouring Compound Designs--177.
Main Points in applying Shades to
Weave-Combinations--178. Examples in Drafted
Patterns--179. Designs composed of Two Prunelle
Twills--180. Drafted Designs composed of Two
Four-Shaft Weaves--181. Styles composed of Prunelle
and Cassimere Twills--182. Combinations composed
of two-, Six-, Seven-, Eight-, and Nine-Shaft
Weaves--183. Drafted Designs composed of Three or
More Weaves--184. Fancy Stripe Combinations--185.
Irregular Woollen Weave Combinations--186. Cotton
Stripes--187. Colouring of Designs containing
several Weaves of Varied Construction--188. Figured
Designs striped in the Warp 243-266

CHAPTER XII.

SPOTTED EFFECTS.

189. Varieties of Spotted Fabrics--190. Spots due to
Specific Systems of Weaving--191. Swansdown Twill
Spotted--192. Spots composed of [3/1] and [1/3]
Twills--193. Weave-spotting produced by both Floats
of Warp and Weft--194. Irregular Spotted Stripes
and Checks--195. Spots developed by single Extra
Warp threads--196. Fabrics Spotted with Single Picks
of Weft--197. Mat Weaves Spotted--198. Corkscrew
Weaves with Extra Spotting Picks--199. Spotted
Diagonals--200. Warp and Weft Spots compared--201.
Spotting in both Warp and Weft--202. Advantages of
the Warp and Weft Methods of Spotting--203. Yarns
used for Spotting--204. Spotted Effects in Ordinary
Weaves--205. Application of Fancy Yarns to Compound
Weaves 267-292

CHAPTER XIII.

COLOURING OF DOUBLE WEAVES AND REVERSIBLES.

206. Principles of Double Cloth Colouring--207.
Styles of Colour Effects obtained in Double
Weaves--208. Double Plains--209. Classification of
Double Plain Stripes--210. Double Plain Stripes
in Two Shades--211. Two-Shade Stripes Warped
Irregularly--212. Styles in Three Colours--213.
Double Plains combined with other Weaves--214.
Intermingled Double Plain Compounds--215.
Reversibles--216. Methods of Colouring Double Plain
Reversibles--217. Colouring of Figured Designs
containing Double Plain and other Weaves--218.
Reversibles arranged Two and One--219. Figured
Compound Weave Patterns--220. Compound Colourings in
Compound Weaves--221. Colouring of Double Cloths,
such as Golf Cloakings and Rugs 293-318

CHAPTER XIV.

FIGURED TEXTILES COLOURED IN THE WARP.

222. Methods of Colouring Figured Fabrics--223. Special
Elements of Ornamental Woven Design--224. Art and
Technique--225. Styles of Figured Fabrics Coloured
in the Warp--226. Cotton Quilting Fabrics--227.
Ornamental Characteristics of Quilting Designs--228.
Attributes of Plush Fabrics--229. Origin of Velvet
Weaving--230. Velvets, Compound in Structure--231.
Two Classes of Plush Fabrics--232. Warp
Plushes--233. Methods of securing the Pile--234.
Analysis of the Process of Velvet or Warp Plush
Weaving--235. Colouring of Warp Plushes and Figured
Velvets--236. Brussels and Tapestry Carpets
compared--237. How the Pattern is developed in
Brussels--238. Structure of Pile Carpets 319-334