Chapter XV

WEFT-COLOURED FIGURED FABRICS--CURL TEXTURES.

239. Warp and Weft Colouring compared--240. Classes of
Designs Coloured in the Weft--241. Designs in which
the Pattern is a product of the Ground Weft--242.
Extra-Weft Styles--243. Vestings--244. Vestings
with one Extra Weft--245. Two-Cover Vestings--246.
Four-Cover Styles--247. Honeycomb Vestings--248.
Two-Cover Colouring--249. Four-Cover Designing--250.
Paisley Shawl Colouring--251. Compound-Weft
Reversibles--252. Warp and Weft Coloured
Figuring--253. Curls, Textiles of the Astrakhan
Group--254. Four Types of Curled Effects--255. Curls
obtained by Wires--256. Process of Weaving Curls
produced by Wires--257. Curls formed by the Weft in
which the Warp is Cotton--258. The Weave of Weft
Curls--259. Structure of Weft-Curl Fabrics--260.
Operation of Cutting after Weaving--261. Curls
developed by Milling--262. Points of dissimilarity
in the various Builds of Curled Textures--263. Two
kinds of Curls developed by Milling--264. Spiral
Threads used for Warp--265. Variety of Pattern in
Spiral-Warp Curls due to Colour--266. Twist-Yarn
Cotton Warp Curls--267. Backed Weaves for Curled
Cloths--268. Essential Characteristics of Cotton
Warp Curls due to Milling--269. Examples in Designs
for Cotton Warp Curls 335-367

INDEX 368

LIST OF COLOURED PLATES.

PLATE TO FACE PAGE
I. A = Spectrum 10
B = Spectrum resultant from viewing a strip of black on
a white surface through a prism.

II. Spectral colouring of fabrics 16
1. Woven-design specimen.
2. Printed-yarn „

III. Primary, secondary, and tertiary colours 22

IV. Tones and tints of the “primaries” 28

V. Plaid in which yellow is the bright overchecking colour 34

VI. Tones and tints of the “secondaries” 40

VII. 1. Blue texture 44
2. Fancy-twist yarn specimen.

VIII. Examples in colour contrasts 50
1, 2. Stripes.
3. Figuring in bright colours.

IX. Mono-chromatic contrasts 54
1. Contrasts in tone.
2. „ „ tints.

X. Specimen of bright colouring in plaids 58

XI. Red, green, and blue colouring 64
1. Figured pattern.
2. Check „

XII. Chart of colour standardization scheme 68

XIII. Blends of coloured wools 76

XIV. Specimens of marl yarns 90
Series I. Greys.
II. Colour.

XV. Regular stripes 104
1 and 2. Two-colour patterns.
3. Four-colour pattern.

XVI. Forms of irregular stripes 112
1. Tennis stripe.
2. Shaded „
3. Compound of ordinary and shaded stripes.

XVII. Fancy tweeds 120

XVIII. Compound stripings in bright colours 126

XIX. Check styles 134
1. Pattern in maroon and green.
2. Compound check.
3. Small interchanging check in fancy yarns.

XX. Check styles 144
1 and 3. Intermingled effects.
2. Broken check.

XXI. Figuring in simple twills 166

XXII. Styles due to simple orders of colouring 190

XXIII. Check and stripe patterns 228
1 and 2. Checks.
3. Gauze stripe.
4. Cord or rib stripes.

XXIV. Colouring of drafted styles 252
1. Weave compound--prunelle and [2\2] twills.
2. „ „ [1\3], [3\1], and [2\2] twills.
3. „ „ „ „ „ twist-warp
yarns.

XXV. Fancy yarns 262
1. Ordinary folded or two-ply and three-ply yarns.
2. Flake and cloud twists.
3. Curl twists.
4. Gimp „

XXVI. Fancy yarn colourings 272
1. Donegal tweed.
2. Compound-weave worsted.

XXVII. Colouring with curl and knop yarns 280
1. Twill weave.
2. Small figure.

XXVIII. Costume colouring in fancy yarns 288

XXIX. Reversible knop-twist yarn pattern 296

XXX. Double-plain styles 304
1, 2, 3. Stripe patterns.
4. Figured shawl.

XXXI. Various double-plain designs 308
1. Warped and wefted one-and-one.
2, 3 and 4. System of warp colouring coinciding with
the weave construction.
5. Irregular warp and weft colouring.

XXXII. Reversible double-weave fabrics 314
1. Double plain--velvet finish.
2. Double twill.

XXXIII. 320
1. Vesting.
2. Reversible golf cloaking.

XXXIV. Extra-warp colouring 324
1. Stripe style.
2. Quilting texture.

XXXV. Colouring of figured fabrics in the warp 330
1. Old vesting design (quilting).
2. Cut and uncut pile pattern.

XXXVI. Figured-pile specimen, sateen ground 334

XXXVII. Figured and spotted fabrics (extra-weft colouring) 340
1. Chintzed.
2 and 4. Extra-weft spotting.
3. Extra weft.

XXXVIII. 1. Honeycomb 348
2. Pine figuring.

XXXIX. Figured styles developed in warp and weft colourings 360

LIST OF FIGURES.

FIG. PAGE.
1. Weave design, effect of 2
1A. „ 2
2. Prismatic experiment 8
3. Design for prismatic experiment 10
4. Lambert’s experiment 14
5. _A_, _B_, _C_. One-and-one colouring effects in the
plain weave 98
5. _D_, _E_, _F_. One-and-one colouring effects in the
[2\2] twill 98
6. Hairline pattern in [3/1] twill 105
7. Hairline pattern in [3/1] twill, fine and broad effects 105
8. Hairline pattern in mat weaves 106
9. Hairline and broken effect in [3/1] and [2\2] twills 106
10. Vertical and transverse lines or stripes 107
11. _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_, _E_, and _F_. Stripe patterns in two
shades 108
12. _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_, _E_, and _F_. Stripe patterns in three
shades 109
13. Line patterns in warp face weaves 110
13A. Ten-shaft whip cord 111
14. Compound stripe of two sets of lines 111
14A. Compound stripe of several sets of lines of different width
in three shades 112

PRINCIPLES OF CHECKING.

15. Common check 123
16. Common check modified 123
17. Check composed of two sizes of squares 124
18. Check composed of two sizes of squares modified 124
19. Overcheck 125
20. Overcheck modified 125
21. Counter-change check 126
22. [4\4] and [8\8] check 126
23. Graduated check 127
24. Common three-colour check 130
25. “Set” check 132
26. “Set” check modified 132
27. Compound checking in three colours 133
28. Compound checking in three colours modified 133
29. Counter-change check in three colours 134
30. Three-colour interchanging check 134
31. Three-colour interchanging check modified 136
32. Shaded check 137
33. Weave shaded check 140
34. Weave shaded check reverse section 141
35. Shaded figured style 142
35A. Shaded figured style section of weave design for 143

TARTANS.

36. The Menzies 147
37. The Menzies, modification of 147
38. The Montgomery 148
39. The Montgomery, I. modification of 148
40. The Montgomery, II. modification of 149
41. The Douglas 149
42. The Douglas, I. modification of 149
43. The Douglas, II. modification of 149
44. The Douglas, II., modification of, in the [3\3] twill 150
45. The McQueen 151
46. The McQueen, I. modification of 152
47. The McQueen, II. modification of 152
48. The Hamilton 153
49. The Maxwell 153
50. The Elliot 154
51. The McKinnon 154
52. The McKinnon, I. modification of 155
53. The McKinnon, II. modification of 155
54. The Dundas 155
55. The Dundas, I. modification of 155
56. The Dundas, II. modification of 156
57. The Fraser 156
58. The Fraser, I. modification of 157
59. The Fraser, II. modification of 157

STANDARD ELEMENTARY COLOUR EFFECTS.

60. ⎫ Plain weaves 162
60A ⎭
61. ⎫ [2\2] twills 162
61A. ⎭
62. ⎫
62A. ⎬ Two-and-two colour effects in the [2\2] twill 163
62B. ⎭
63. Effect in the plain weave (bird’s-eye spot) 164
64. Spotted design composed of plain weave 165
65. Spotted design composed of plain weave, effect of colouring
one-and-one 166
66. Spotted design composed of [2\2] twill, effect of colouring
one-and-one 167
67. Spotted twill weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one
colouring in warp and weft 168
67A. Spotted twill weave 168
68. Mat and twill weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one
colouring in warp and weft 169
68A. Mat and twill weave 169
69. Checked weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one colouring
in warp and weft 169
69A. Checked weave 169
70. [2\2] mat design, effect in the fabric, two-and-two-
colouring 170
70A. [2\2] mat design 170
71. ⎫
71A. ⎬ Three-and-three colour effects in the [3\3] twill 171
71B. ⎭
72. ⎫
72A. ⎬ Four-and-four colour effects in the [2\2] twill 171
72B. ⎭
73. Four-and-four colouring in [2\2] mat 172
74. Four-and-four colouring in weave 74a 172
74A. Fancy eight-shaft weave 172
75. ⎫
75A. ⎬ Six-and-six colour effects in the [3\3] twill 174
75B. ⎭
76. Eight-and-eight colouring in the [4\4] twill 174
77. Six-and-six colouring in weave 77A 175
77A. Twelve-shaft irregular warp cord 175
78. Star check (six-and-six colouring) 175
78A. Weave for Fig. 78 175
79. Three-odd thread colour effect in the [3\3] twill 176
80. Three-odd thread colour effects in a [3\3] twill check
design 177
80A. Design for Fig. 80 177
81. Three-2’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 178
82. Three-3’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 178
83. Hairline in four shades in the [3\1] broken twill 180
84. Four-2’s colour effect in the [2\2] twill 181
85. Four-3’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 181
86. Four-2’s colour effect in the Mayo 182
86A. Mayo weave 182
87. Four-and-one colour effect in the [3\2] twill 184
87A. [3\2] twill 184
87B. Irregular checking in Fig. 87a 184
88. Six-and-two colour effect in a fancy mat weave 185
89. Fancy eight-shaft mat 185
89A. Weave for Fig. 89 185
90. Six-and-two colour effect in an irregular weave 186
90A. Weave for Fig. 90 186
91. Irregular colour effect in an eight-shaft twill 186
91A. Weave for Fig. 91 186
92. Two-two-and-one colour effect in the [3\2] twill 186
93. Three-two-and-one colour effect in the [3\3] twill 187
94. Six-four-and-two colour effect in the [3\3] twill 187
95. Six-four-and-two colour effect in the [2\2] mat 187
96. Twelve-shaft fancy twill 187
97. Irregular colour effect in four shades in Fig. 96 188
98. Irregular colour effect in four shades in ordinary twill 188
99. Irregular colour effect in four shades in the Mayo 189
100. Shaded check in four shades 189
100A. Weave for Fig. 100 189
101. A series of elementary colour patterns in [2\2] twill and
mat 190

EXAMPLES IN COMPOUND COLOURINGS.

102. Regular compound check, 2-and-2 and 1-and-1 colouring, [2\2]
twill 193
103. Regular compound check, 4-and-4, 2-and-2, and 1-and-1
colouring, [2\2] twill 195
104. Regular compound stripe, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring,
light weft, [2\2] twill 203
105. Regular compound stripe, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring,
dark weft, [2\2] twill 203
106. Regular compound check, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring, [2\2]
twill 204
107. Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1 and 2-2-and-2 colouring,
light weft, [2\2] twill 204
108. Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1 and 2-2-and-2 colouring,
[2\2] twill 204
109. Regular compound stripe, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6 colouring,
dark weft, [2\2] twill 207
110. Regular compound stripe, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6 colouring,
light weft, [2\2] twill 207
111. Regular compound check, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6, [2\2] twill 208
112. Regular compound stripe, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6
colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 209
113. Regular compound stripe, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6
colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 209
114. Regular compound check, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6, [2\2]
twill 210
115. Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and
4 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 211
116. Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4
colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 211
117. Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4,
[2\2] twill 211
117A. Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4,
[2\2] mat 213
118. Irregular compound stripe, 2-and-1 and 4-and-2, dark weft,
[2\2] twill 215
119. Irregular compound check, 2-and-1 and 4-and-2 colouring,
[2\2] twill 215
120. Irregular compound stripe, 6-4-and-2 and 3-and-3, dark weft,
[3\3] twill 216
121. Irregular compound check, 6-4-and-2 and 3-and-3, [3\3] twill 216
122. Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 4-and-2 colouring,
[3\3] twill 217
123. Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 2-1-1-and-2 colouring,
[3\3] twill 217
124. Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 2-1-1-and-2 colouring,
differently grouped, [3\3] twill 218

ILLUSTRATIVE OF COLOURING SPECIFIC WEAVES AND DESIGNS.

125. Corkscrew weave, colour effect in 222
126. Corkscrew weave, colour effect in broad stripe 224
127. Corkscrew weave, colour effect in angled stripe 224
128. Modified corkscrew weave 225
129. Pattern obtained in Fig. 128 225
130. (Upper section) Check produced in fancy weave 226
130. (Lower section) Pattern due to Fig. 132 226
131. Weave for Fig. 130 (upper section) 226
132. Warp and weft cord and prunelle twill design 228
133. Diagonal pattern in single- and double-plain weaves 230
134. Section of design for Fig. 133 231
135. Striped spotted design 233
136. Wave or zig-zag effect 233
137. Section of gauze and plain-woven pattern 234
138. Gauze structure (photo-micrograph) 235
139. Plan for gauze twill and plain stripe 235
140. Healding draft for Figs. 139 and 140 235
141. Similar to Fig. 139 235
142. Fancy gauze and ordinary weave compound 236
143. Mock gauze stripe design 239
144. Mock gauze check 240
144A. Structure of mock gauze (photo-micrograph) 240
144B. Weave for Fig. 144A 241
145. Cord stripe. Weaves, weft cord, and whip cord twills 241
146. Cord stripe. Weaves, weft cords and buckskin twill 242

COLOUR EFFECTS IN COMPOUND WEAVE DESIGNS.

147. Figured pattern in [2\2] twill and double-plain weaves 247
148. Section of design for Fig. 147 248
149. Woven effect of Figs. 150 and 151 250
150. Compound design [1\2], [2\1] and [2\2] twills 250
151. Healding draft for Fig. 153 251
152. Woven effect of Figs. 153 and 154 250
153. Compound design, small twill weaves reversed 251
154. Healding draft for Fig. 153 252
155. Compound check design, [2\2] twill weave reversed 252
156. Healding draft for Fig. 155 253
157. Six-and-three colour effect in Fig. 158 255
158. Stripe design composed of [3\3] mat and a broken mat 255
159. Healding draft for Fig. 160 257
160. Compound style in [2\2], [3\1], and [1\3] twills 258
161. Stripe design consisting of a seven-shaft diagonal reversed 259
162. Stripe design consisting of warp and weft cord effects on a
plain weave ground 260
163. Stripe design consisting of thirteen-shaft weaves 260
164. Stripe design consisting of fancy weaves 262
165. Stripe design consisting of sixteen-shaft twilled mat and
other weaves 263
166. Compound of warp and weft corkscrews and whip cord weaves 263
167. Wave pattern, sateen ground 265
167A. Design for Fig. 167 265

COLOURING OF SPOTTED DESIGNS.

168. Angled [2\2] twill spotted pattern 268
169. Effect of Fig. 168 269
170. Spotted warp twill 269
171. Spotted warp twill 270
172. Spotted effect in [3\1] broken twill ground 271
173. Spotted effect in [2\2], [3\1], and [1\3] twills 271
174. Spotted effect in [3\1] and [1\3] broken twills 271
175. Stripe spotted design 272
176. Method of grouping “spots” 272
177. Irregular distribution of “spots” 273
177A. Pattern for Fig. 177 274
178. Warp and weft spotting on a plain ground (small effects) 274
179. Warp and weft spotting on a plain ground (broad effects) 275
180. Warp and weft spotting on a twill ground 276
181. Warp and weft spotting to form checks 278
182. Pattern for Fig. 181 278
183. Single-thread warp spotting 280
184. Single-pick weft spotting (corkscrew twill) 281
185. Single-pick weft spotting (mat ground) 283
186. Modification of Fig. 184 283
187. Warp-backed design, single-pick spotted 283
188. Diagonal single-pick spotted 284
189. Single-thread and single-pick spotting 285

COMPOUND WEAVE COLOURING.

190. Double-plain stripe, thread-and-thread colouring 299
191. Double-plain stripe, thread-and-thread colouring 299
192. Double-plain stripe, weaves cutting 299
193. Double-plain stripe, warp colouring fitting with weave
structure 301
194. Double-plain stripe in three colours 301
195. Double-plain stripe in three colours 302
196. Compound design, double-plain and warp-twill weave 302
197. Double-plain check 304
198. Figured reversible design 306
199. Figured reversible design 308
200. Figured reversible design double-plain and [2\2] twill
weaves 309
201. Double-weave reversible 2-and-1 principle 310
202. Double-twill figuring 312
203. Double-weave vesting 313
204. Double-twill, warp stitched for golf cloaking 316
205. Check golf cloaking pattern 317
205A. Weave for Fig. 205, centre-warp stitched 316

PRINCIPLES OF COLOURING IN THE WARP.

206. Warp-figured design 322
207. Extra-warp figuring 323
207A. Section for Fig. 207 323
208. Warp-pile structure 329
209. Weave structure for three-colour warp pile 331
210. Section of three-colour pile fabric 334

PRINCIPLES OF COLOURING IN THE WEFT-CURL FABRICS.

211. Ordinary principle of weft figuring 338
212. Extra-weft colouring 338
213. Section design for Fig. 212 339
214. Rib or cord stripe, extra weft coloured 342
215. Spotted vesting, extra weft colouring 342
216. Diagonal design, extra weft colouring 343
217. Section of four-cover vesting design 344
218. Honeycomb weave 345
219. Honeycomb fabric 346
220. Honeycomb striped design 346
221. Figured pattern, sateen ground 347
222. Section of pine figuring, four extra wefts 348
223. Pine figuring, Border style 350
224. Section of Paisley shawl design 351
225. Section of two-ply weft reversible fabric 352
226. Weave for Fig. 227 352
227. Design for a reversible fabric 352
228. Three-shade weft coloured reversible 353
229. Three-ply weft weave, four-shaft 354
230. Three-ply weft weave, six-shaft 354
231. Weft figuring on a warp cord ground 355
232. Figuring in solid weft floats and bold warp cord on a rep
ground 356
233. Section of pile fabrics 357
234. Section of pile fabrics, (cut) 359
235. Section of pile fabrics, long curl effect (cut) 359
236. Section of pile fabrics, long curl effect (uncut) 360
237. Feather trimming textures 361
238. Weft curl weave 364
239. Striped curl pattern 365
240. Weave design for Fig. 239 365
241. Irregular “curl” 366
242. Weave design for Fig. 241 366
243. “Curl” in two colours of weft 367
244. Design for two-colour weft “curl” 367

TABLES.

PAGE
I. Methods of applying Colour to Textiles 7
II. Wave Frequency of the Spectral Colours 9
III. Compounds of Coloured Lights 14
IV. Colours resulting from combining Pigments 15
V. Compounds of Shades or Tones of Colour 30
VI. Compounds of Tints of Colour 31
VII. Types of Woven Colouring 93
VIII. Illustrating the Effects on the Plain and [2\2] Twill
Weaves of changing the Order of Warping and Wefting 99
IX. Regular Simple Colourings 161
X. Irregular Simple Colourings 182
XI. Compound Colourings 199

COLOUR IN WOVEN DESIGN.