Chapter I: Introduction

The sudden interest created by recent political events in everything relating to Cyprus, an island which, from its geographical position, seems destined to play no unimportant part in modern history, has rendered the appearance of Herr von Löher’s narrative of his recent journeyings through the length and breadth of that country extremely welcome. It is therefore with much pleasure we have received permission from the Author to lay before the British Public an adaptation of his book (only published during the last few days) which seems well suited to supply information, such as is at present much needed in England.

The island of Cyprus from the first dawn of civilisation has been classic ground, extremely interesting to antiquaries, and its history throughout the Middle Ages is largely blended with tales of chivalry and romantic incidents, such as in these matter-of-fact times are scarcely cared for by speculators, whose object is to obtain reliable information on subjects of more practical importance, such as the resources of the country, the character of its soil, the capabilities of its surface, and the industry of its inhabitants. Lessons upon these points are only to be learned from a careful survey, such as that accomplished by our author, who, uninfluenced by prejudice, describes in simple narrative the actual condition of the island, the scenery of the interior, and the everyday employments and pursuits of the people, thus removing many erroneous impressions as to the condition of the Cypriotes, and leaving the reader to form his own opinion as to the status and prospects of our new acquisition. All information connected with these points we have carefully rendered, only omitting such matter as appeared irrelevant, and calculated unnecessarily to increase the size of the book. Additional information gleaned from various sources, relative to the general history and statistics of the island, is to be found in the Appendix.

That the climate of Cyprus is delightful, the soil prolific, and the landscape in some parts of the country of surpassing beauty, we have abundant testimony in the writings of classic authors, and there is no reason to suppose that in these respects its attractions have deteriorated. A late writer, J. Jasinides, who died at a good old age at Koutzovendi, in Cyprus, in 1871, at the conclusion of his work “Les Iles Mediterranée,” thus expresses himself: “For forty years I have been wandering from isle to isle, ascertaining their political, commercial, and social aspect, and this island (Cyprus) notwithstanding the barbarism of its present rulers, through which it is cut off from the rest of the world, is my favourite.... It is a little world in itself; here do I wish to die. My limited means will keep me in comparative luxury. Although old, I am strong and feel young, no wild beasts or reptiles disturb my solitude, the water is sweet and cool, the wine is nectar, and the food plain but good; above all I know that my grave will be respected, and that kind hands will close my eyes.”

M. A. J.

London, 1878.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

LARNAKA.

PAGE

First View of Larnaka—Arrival—The Haven—The
Town—Catholic Church—Fine Carving—Kissing
Relics—Marble Sarcophagi—Tombs—Derivation of Name of
Larnaka—Phœnicians—Kiti—Language—Shallow Harbour—An ancient
Graveyard—Relics—Nursing Bottles—Schools—Church of St. Lazarus—A
Compromise in Ecclesiastic Architecture—St. Lazarus’s Morning
Walk—Ride out to curious Building—Strange Doors—Phaneromene
Panagia—Female Superstitions—Salt Lake—Marshes Source of
Ill-health 1

CHAPTER II.

ATHIENU.

Streets of Larnaka—Game Birds—Mountain of Olympus—Negro
Slaves—Natives of Athienu—Attack on Famagusta—Repulse
of the Turks—Six Months’ Siege—Honourable Terms—Meeting
of rival Generals—Treachery of Mustapha—Butchery of
the Garrison—Bragadino flayed alive—Triumphant Return
of Mustapha—Dinner with an Athenitan—Dali—Two largest
Rivers—Neglected Land—Character of a Cypriote—Silkworms—Planting
of Mulberry Trees—Silk Factories—Forests—Carob-tree—Cyprus a
miniature India—Fruits—Sugar—Cotton—The Garden of the World—A
Guard of Honour—First View of the Capital—Lepers—Visit to the
Governor 9

CHAPTER III.

NIKOSIA.

Morning Impressions—Easter Eve—Gardens of Fruit
Trees—Society—Costume of the Ladies—Beauties of Cyprus—Adoption
of Turkish Customs—Language—Cathedral of St. Sophia—Church of
St. Nicholas—Archbishop’s Chapel—Visit to the Lord Archbishop—A
Rising Man—Greek Priests—Church of St. Katherine—Memorials of
the Dead—St. Paul in Cyprus—Elymas, the Sorcerer—Prisons—Court
of Justice—Wanton Destruction—Wealthy Nobles—Enormous
Establishments—Great Riches of Merchants 21

CHAPTER IV.

CYPRUS IN THE MIDDLE AGES.

A German Kingdom—Richard Cœur de Lion—Cyprus sold to
Lusignan—Knights Templars—Amalrick—Becomes a Vassal to Henry
the Sixth of Germany—From A.D. 1285 to A.D. 1373—Conquest of
Smyrna and Alexandria—Commerce—Wealth and Luxury—Death of
James the Second—Origin of Italian Title of Kings of Cyprus
and Jerusalem—Turks—Erection of Fortifications—Selim the
Second—Attack on Limasol—Arsenal at Venice burnt—Nikosia
besieged—Heroic Defence—Spoil and Captives—Result of
Intemperance 33

CHAPTER V.

DRAWING UP OF THE STATUTES.

Social Positions of the various Classes—Vassalage—Form of
Government—Marriage of Lady Vassals—Law Courts—Assizes of
Jerusalem—Custody of the Book of the Law—John d’Ibelin—Knightly
Law-Makers—Philip of Navarre—Grand Statute Book of Cyprus 42

CHAPTER VI.

SAN CHRISOSTOMO.

Cyprus, European or Asian?—Buffavento—Excursion to inspect
Buffavento—Carrying Fire-arms prohibited—A quiet Morning Ride—An
old Turk and his Wives—The Northern Range of Mountains—St.
Chrisostomo—Monastic Economy—Maria of Molino—Precautions against
Fever—Easter Decorations—A Remedy for Leprosy—Fortresses erected
to command Passes and Roads—Spirit haunted—Unger and Kotschy 47

CHAPTER VII

BUFFAVENTO.

Bee-hives—The Queen’s Castle—Paradise—Take a Guide—Gradual
Ruin—En Avant—The Guides suspect Treasure Hunting—The
Fortress—Zaptiehs and their Masters—Plucky Guide—The Highest
Tower—View from the Summit—A German Female Recluse—Peculiar
People in Carpasia—The Descent—Fortresses destroyed by
Venetians—Sale of Crown Lands—Decline of Old Nobility 54