Chapter VIII: Turkish Governors

Visit from the Pacha—One Hundred Years Ago—How Governors
feathered their Nests—Poll-tax—Expostulation—Report to
the Sultan—Arrival of the Imperial Envoy—Public Reading
of the Sultan’s Commands—Fall of the Floor of the State
Chamber—Explanation of the Trap—The Governor will not be
governed—Attacked by the Populace—Death of the Governor—A
New Governor—Intrigues and another Poll-tax—Popular
Refusal—Preparations for Rebellion—The Water cut off—The
Edict withdrawn—Again a Poll-tax—The Nobles head the
Insurrection—Blockade of Nikosia—Again the Tax withdrawn—Arrival
of a New Governor—Disappointed Hopes—Proposals—Order again
restored—The Poll-tax again demanded—General Revolt—Attack
on Famagusta—Siege of Nikosia—Eastern Wiles—Mediation by
English Consul—Fighting continued—Arrival of Corsairs—A strong
Argument—Arrival of Special Envoy to compel Order—Deserters
from the Rebel Camp—Rebels retire to Keryneia—The Castle
besieged—An Open-hearted Turkish Sailor!—Betrayal of Halil
Aga—Capitulation—Smiles—Treacherous Execution—Two Hundred salted
Heads—Order restored 62

CHAPTER IX.

THE PLAINS OF CYPRUS.

Expedition to ascend Olympus—No Information to be
obtained—Neglected Districts—Game—Prompt Action
of my Zaptieh—Faithful obedience of Mussulman
Servants—Akazi—Easter—Fasting extraordinary—Abstinence of the
Greeks—Heat 77

CHAPTER X.

EVRYCHU.

Cool Waters—Evrychu—In Church—Healthy Population—Graceful and
interesting Customs—Greek Houses—Our Host and his Family—An
Easter Dinner—Classic Christian Names—Absence of large
Trees—Cypriote Clergy 83

CHAPTER XI.

MOUNT OLYMPUS.

A Mountain Pass—Lost our Way—Heroism of the Dragoman!—Sight of
a Glacier—Absence of Large Timber at Base of Mountain—Dragoman
again! who fairly bolts—Horses and Zaptieh left behind—Heavy
Work in the Snow—Scene from the Summit—Alone!—No Trace of Ruins
90

CHAPTER XII.

CYPRUS IN ANCIENT TIMES.

Descent of Olympus—A Retrospect—The busy Phœnicians—Shipbuilders
for the Euphrates—The Goddess Astarte—The New Religion—Trojan
War, the first Struggle between East and West—Grecian Warrior
Colonists—Evidence of Ancient Inscriptions—The Nine Kingdoms
of Cyprus—Attacks by Continental Nations—Cyprus appealed to
for Assistance—The Cyprian Navy—Philip of Macedon—Alexander
the Great—Cyprian Shipwrights on the Indus—Artisans of
Cyprus—Ptolemies—An Egyptian Ruler—Cyprus a Roman Province—Under
Roman Dominion—Aphroditissa—The Idol Stone—Little Images of the
Madonna—Revolution of the Jews—Great Slaughter—A Land of Saints
97

CHAPTER XIII.

TROADITISSA.

Dangerous Ground—Disappointment—Easter-Eve Festivities—An
Official Menace—Hear of a Gentleman—Demons and
Kobolds—Fini—Arrival—Stable Accommodation—The Dragoman
again—Hunger—Cloister Rations—Wine makes the Heart Glad—A
Village Congregation—After Mass—Hospitality of the
Church—Beautiful Girls—Doctors required—Fasting—Precious
Relic—Russian Gift—The Picture endowed with Healing
Powers—Gratitude—Mountains and Trees—Heat—Shepherds 112

CHAPTER XIV.

CYPRIAN WOODS AND FORESTS.

Neglect of Forests—Preservation by former Rulers—Gradual
Destruction—Shipbuilding—Exportation of Timber—Wanton
Destruction—Forest Fires—Resin and Pitch—Process of
extracting Resin—Suicidal Revenge—Protection required—British
Legislation—The late Governor of Cyprus—Sad Prospect for the
Island—Eucalyptus 121

CHAPTER XV.

PLAGUES OF LOCUSTS.

Locusts in olden Times—An Egyptian Plague for Two Years—Gradual
Increase—Young Locusts—Devastation—Energy of Turkish
Pacha—Troops are called out—A Remedy is found—M. Mattei—The
Locusts effectually stopped 127

CHAPTER XVI.

CHRYSOROGIATISSA.

Rivers of Southern Cyprus—Rippling Waters—View of the Monastery
of Kikku—A valuable Picture—Panagia—Wild Fruits—The Monks
disturbed—Fine Figure of the Saviour—Carvings—Breakfast with
the Abbot—Deserted State of the Country—Robbers—Alarm of
the Servants—Prisons—Execution of Criminals—An interesting
Prisoner—A Cypriote Robin Hood—Dowries to a Thousand
Girls—A romantic Thief—Prison Life—Stalwart Monks—Turkish
Women—Miserable Huts—Approach to Paphos—Ktima—Advent of Venus 130

CHAPTER XVII.

THE TEMPLE OF VENUS.

Bishop of Baffo—View of the Ruins—Gigantic
Stones—Old Temple—Curious Holes in Stones, producing
Echo—Mosaics—Sacrificial Rites—The Idol Stone—Ruins of
former City—View from the Temple—An Admirer of Sappho—A
Turkish Farmer—Queen’s Cave—An inscribed Stone Slab—Rock-cut
Tombs—Watch-tower—Dinner: Bill-of-Fare—A Turkish
Housewife—Nocturnal Reflections—Worship of Venus—Holy Cloth for
the Caaba—The Cone-shaped Stones—Doves of Venus—Meteoric Stones
139

CHAPTER XVIII.

SUMMER RESIDENCE IN CYPRUS.

Donkeys and Mules—Muleteers—Starting on a
Journey—Mounted!—Commissariat of Travelling Cypriote—General
Cesnola—Village of Dali—Out-door Nights in Summer—A delightful
Retreat 149

CHAPTER XIX.

CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.

Family Affection—Female Influence—Modern Greeks—Bad
Qualities—Simony—Flatterers—Luxury—Taking his Ease—Shameful
Effeminacy 155

CHAPTER XX.

CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE.

Syrian Heat—Cool Mountain Breezes—Fevers—Wine,
a Remedy for Ague—Seasons—Excessive Heat—Hot
Winds—Scarcity—Spring—September—L’Imbat—Snow 161

CHAPTER XXI.

BAPPO AND KURLIA.

Dealer in Curiosities—Ktima—Rock-cut Tombs—Palæo
Castro—Graves—Antiquities—Ossuaries—Relics of Funeral
Feasts—Ruins of a Temple—St. Paul—Koloni—Asbestos—Sacred
Garden—Bath of Aphrodite—Ieroskipo—Kapatah—Ancient
Harbour—Ruins of Churches—Buried Treasures—A Cyprian
Dinner—Tombs—Arsinœ—Loadstone Temple—Berenice—Treasures for
Naturalists—Tax-gatherers 167

CHAPTER XXII.

EPISKOPI.

Coffee-house—Thistle Seeds—Snake—Game—Adimu—Apollo Hylades Guard
Houses—Pirates—Lycos—Egyptian Beauties—No Accommodation 179

CHAPTER XXIII.

KOLOSSIN.

A Turkish Farmer—Square Tower—Oxen—Norman Architecture—An old
Fortress—Knights Templars—Wine—Beccaficos 184

CHAPTER XXIV.

SOIL AND MINERAL PRODUCTS.

Mountains—Rich Soil—Alluvial Deposits—Gardens—Cooper
Mines—Gold and Silver—Salt—Volcanic Eruptions—Precious
Stones—Amber—Asbestos—Robes of the Priests 191

CHAPTER XXV.

NATURAL PRODUCTS.

Under the Lusignans—Wine, Oil, &c.—Carob-tree—Cyprian
Dyes—Grasping Policy of Venice—Olive-trees—Government
of Cyprus—A valuable Farm—Sultan of
Egypt—Tribute—Turks—Flowers—Tobacco—Corn—Timber—Flowers—Fertility
of Soil—Jujube-tree—Distilled
Oils—Cotton—Silk—Game—Wine—Taxes—Decline of Cultivation—Poor
fare—Potatoes—Spiders—Beef and Mutton 194

CHAPTER XXVI.

ST. NICHOLAS AND LIMASOL.

News of Marble Relics—Off to search—Heavy Weather—Church of St.
Nicholas—Ancient Temple—Monastery Garden—Salt Marsh—Building
Houses—Turkish Women, Coquetry—Franciscan Convent—Monastic
Graveyard—A new Church—A smart Man—Manufacture of Antiquities—A
Parade round the Town—Hospitable Priests—Schools—Domestic
Economy of Cyprian Family—A Cyprian Lady—Chinese
Nobility—Prospects of Trade—Population—Revenue—Bribery 202

CHAPTER XXVII.

AMATHUS.

A Morning Ride—A sudden Change—The devouring
Lion—Heat—Favoured Tracts—Site of Amathus—Export of
Stone—A natural Fortress—Hamath—French Antiquarians—A
precious Relic—Vandalism by French Officers—Gigantic
Vases—Adonis—Anemones—Feasts—Pygmalion—Paphos, Son
of Pygmalion—Under the Ptolemies—Remains of the
City—Excavations—Amathus, the City—Mania for Destruction—Capo
delle Gatte—Cats 211

CHAPTER XXVIII.

KARUBIEH AND MAZOTOS.

Cape Karubieh—Deserted Village—Fruit Ships—Fruit—Carob-trees—A
Cyprian Farm-house—Our worthy hostess—Light soil—Farm
Labourers—Cost of living—Priests—Hospitality—Kiti—Mount of the
Holy Cross—St. Helena—Sacred Relic—Game—Wine 220

CHAPTER XXIX.

LAST DAYS OF LARNAKA.

Dancing Girls—Aphrodite—St. George the Martyr—Patron
Saint of England—Legend of St. George—Tenets of the Greek
Church—Clergy—Churches—Servia—Panagia—Sunday Trading—Handsome
Girls—Cypriote Husbands—Turkish Houses—Departure from the Island 226

CHAPTER XXX.

EFFORTS OF THE GERMANS TO OBTAIN CYPRUS

Frederick the Second—An imperial Marriage—Cyprian
Opinions—Barons—Knights—Importance of Cyprus as a Military
Position—Regency—Quarrels—Promises of Amendment—Form
of Government—Departure of the Emperor—The Emperor
denounced—Sedition—Terms of Peace—The Emperor is crowned—State
of Cyprus—Civil Wars—Rebellion—The Verse-maker—Success of Ibelin 234

CHAPTER XXXI.

MARSHAL FELINGHER.

Cyprus lost—A Fleet sent—Ibelin at Beyrut—Internal
Disaffection—Defeat of Ibelin—Strenuous Efforts to
raise Money—Bank Notes—The Genoese Rise—Defeat of the
Imperialists—Death of Queen Alice—Peaceful Proposals—Renewed
Hostilities—Papal Interference—The last of German Influence 256

CHAPTER XXXII.

CYPRUS AND THE EUPHRATES VALLEY RAILWAY.

The Projected Railway—Cyprus a Terminal Station—Sir F.
Goldsmid—Position of Cyprus—Ports—Commerce—Harbours—Different
Routes for Line—Mr. W.P. Andrew—Political Importance of
Line—Fertility of adjacent Country—Re-opening a neglected
Country—India nearer Home 269

APPENDIX. 283

CYPRUS,

HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.