Chapter I: Preface (1)

If a Dedication, or Introduction to the following Work should be thought necessary, I most humbly, and justly address it to the excellent DAIRY-WOMEN, of _Great Britain_; duly sensible, that from them I received the first hints that led me to the performance, and without whose assistance and encouragement, joined with my own knowledge and experience, I should never have offer’d it to the Public.

The real design of this Work, is to assist those who are not fully acquainted with the most proper methods, necessary to be used in the management of a DAIRY; I have made it my endeavour to render every part as plain and intelligent as possible, and am in hopes upon a due Observation of the rules laid down many will find their account in it. It is my sincere wish, that it may be a means of improving the quality, as well as enlarging the quantity of CHEESE, through the Kingdom; and become extensively useful to the community in general.

As the Publication of this Work has met with a very ready sale, & been much approved of in general, and many who have carefully apply’d the rules for Dairying therein laid down, have deriv’d great advantage from it, which the Author has by many, been inform’d of; encourages him to print a second Edition, and having omitted the other treatises upon _Orchards_ and _Vegetation_, in order to bring the price more moderate, hopes that, will cause it to be more read by DAIRY-WOMEN, who if they pay a due attention to it, cannot help receiving benefit from the advice it contains.

Dairying Exemplified, _&c._

It has been the wonder of many People, who are interested in the Article of Cheese, either as Makers or Dealers; that no Treatise or Book of rules, or method of making Cheese, hath ever been attempted; or the business of it examined, so as to direct those who are concerned as Dairy-women, or have the chief management in Dairys, to become proficients therein.

The great number of inferior Dairys there are, in comparison to the few, that are excellent in their kind, or even what are called good Dairys; every person who is much concerned in the Cheese Trade, is well convinced of; and ’tis evident to a nice observer of the different, yea, very different qualities of Cheese produc’d in different Dairys, or even in the same Dairys, when either the Dairy-maid is changed, or the usual method of Cheese-making, by the Mistress or manager of each Dairy, is not strictly adhered to. A Remedy for this great deficiency is looked upon as an affair of great moment, especially by those, whose lot it is to be fixed in the Cheese Trade in a considerable Dairy Country, where large quantities of Cheese, are annually bought; and where, was Cheese-making in equal repute, or the real quality of Cheese, equal in goodness to some neighbouring Counties, a much larger quantity would certainly be made, and what would be a great encouragement both to the makers and buyers of it, a better price would be procured for the same Article, and a much readier Sale, than when of an inferior quality.

Besides which, it is very clear that many People do not, for want of a proper method, make near so much Cheese, from the same quantity of Milk, as others do; or as even themselves might do, if a more proper method was pursued. These considerations, having always been clearly apparent, have from time to time, and as oft as an opportunity of attaining any knowledge, in the business of making good Cheese hath offered; led the Author of the following Treatise, to collect, weigh, and investigate every particular circumstance leading to improve the said art, or business; and hath enabled him from time to time, to assist, and help many, by his advice and directions, to rectify and amend many faults, and deficiencies, in the method, they followed; and many have by such directions, greatly improved their Dairys. And from constant experience and seeing the improvements, and the effects produced from every different method practised or explained, by such as he found most experienced, or best informed, for the space of Thirty Years and upwards, he never fail’d to avail himself; this hath constantly led him to scrutinize into the real cause, of every impediment, or fault, in the method of making Cheese, from the first step, or Milking the Cows, to the compleating or removing the Cheese for Sale. And to point out a remedy to each complaint upon rational principles, as far as they appear to him, and are confirmed by the opinion of others, who have been in the way of making observations of the same nature, and who give every encouragement to the Author to make such improvements Public, for the general good. I am well acquainted, how unthankful an office it is, to attempt to instruct or inform Dairy-women, how to improve their method, or point out rules, which are different from their own, or what hath always been practised by their Mothers, to whom they are often very partial, as having been esteemed the best Dairy-women of their time, and even when they have imperceptably alter’d their method, by shortening the time in gathering the Cheese, which is a term generally given for collecting the Curd at the bottom of the Tub or Pan, after the runnet or rendless has done its duty, or by putting a larger quantity of runnet into the Milk to hasten the coming of the Cheese, which alteration, though often not observed by the Dairy-maid, or Mistress, is of very material importance, and is what I shall endeavour to explain, in as concise a manner as possible. I doubt not, the same reflection will occur to the minds of some few on reading my Book; as hath often done upon occasion, when I have in a Dairy, met with any particular impediment in their Cheese, which the Dairy-woman would fairly acknowledge she could not account for, and hath tried every means she could think of to rectify without success; saying, what does he know of Dairying, or how should a Man know any thing of Cheese making?

But let these remember, that I have had frequent opportunities, of consulting the best of Dairy-women, in many Counties, who I knew from experience did know how to make good Cheese, and in order to have it in my power to inform such as did not know how, I have taken great pains, to inform myself, as many now living, in both situations can testify.

The principal faults that cause these difficulties to Dairy-women are, Hove Cheese, Spongey, full of Eyes, Whey Springs, Jointed or Shook Cheese, Split Cheese, Loose Cheese, or Cheese made of unsettled Curd, Rank or strong Cheese, Flying out or Bulging at the Edges, Dry cracks or Husky Coated Cheese, Blistering in the Coat, Blue-Pared, or Decayed Cheese, Sweet or Funkey Cheese, Curdled or sour Milk Cheese, and sometimes ill Smelling Cheese, from tainted Maw-skins, from distemper’d Cattle, or some other cause, which by a strict observer may be accounted for. Before a certain cure can be found out or applied, you must be acquainted with the nature, and cause of the complaint, or if by any accident, you hit upon a remedy, it may perhaps be a partial one, or such as will not answer at all times, or in all Dairys, by reason the complaint is from a certain fixt cause, and which cause will at all times and in all places produce that effect; when perhaps, the remedy apply’d may only be proper in some particular Dairys, owing to Herbage, very rich Pasture or very Poor, to Clover ground, or ground given to Noxious Weeds, Plants, or Trees, which the Cows eat of; each of which if not known or considered will produce a different effect, some of which effects may be similar in appearance to complaints in other Dairys produced from different causes, the knowledge of which will be of great use, to every Dairy-woman, or maker of Cheese to know, as the operation of the work, or management and care of the Cheese when made, must necessarily fall to their lot.

What relates to Pasturage; or the quality of Land for Grass, the produce of the Land regarding Plants, Weeds, or Grass of different kinds, falls more immediately under the eye or care of the Master, or Farmer of the Land; and from observing from time to time, the state of the Dairy, the Taste of the Cheese, so far as it may be affected by any particular Herb, Weed, or Grass; the situation of the Cheese in the Dairy-Chamber, how it is affected in different Seasons by Heat, Cold, Damp or Dry Weather, to know what are the causes of many general faults, or complaints in Cheese, such as Heaving, Splitting, Jointing, Whey-Spring, Ill Formed, or Sweet Cheese, which often, when any of these happen in a Dairy, are produced by one general cause, and frequently go through the principal part of it, proceeding from the same neglect, or mismanagement. These difficulties or deficiencies, it is proper a Master should be acquainted with, as it often, I may say, too often happens, the Mistress leaves the care of the Dairy to Servants, especially the putting together the Milk, preparing the Runnet and putting it into the Milk, the standing of the Milk till it becomes Curd, and breaking or gathering it after it is come; which is generally done by some common rule or method they have been used to, the method used by a former Mistress perhaps, who might be esteem’d a good Dairy-woman, and very likely undertook the management of the Dairy herself; or at least so far as the essential part of the work extended; paying a particular regard to the time of the operation of the Runnet, in bringing the Cheese, or of gathering the Curd, fixing, or setting it after it is come; each of which require a minute exactness, and the principal error, or misfortune in Cheese making, is owing to these operations being too hastily performed, not giving time enough for the different effects to take place; for if due regard is paid to making good Curd, you will very easily make good Cheese; few people in any business make good Goods of bad Materials, tho’ many of the most ignorant, when provided with good Materials, prepared for that purpose, will finish them in a Workman-like and Masterly manner; so will many a Dairy-maid, make very handsome Cheese and take care of it, till it comes to be very good, and so as to give credit to the seller, as well as the vender of it, that has no consistent idea how the Runnet operates, or perhaps of the different states of the Curd, in its various stages, or even when it is in a proper state to begin the part of the work which usually falls to her share, of Breaking, Vatting, and preparing it for putting in the Press, which former part should be the care of the Mistress, or at least of some Person who does understand it, to prepare the Curd for them. The business of a Dairy, is of a considerable importance, and is in some Places, half, or nearly the whole income, or produce of a Farm. The difference is so great between a very good Dairy-woman, an inferior one, and a very bad one, as would surprise, even a judicious observer, and the following observations, which flow from what have happened in my own walks, will be apt to strike conviction on the minds of many, who have never applied their thoughts to the Theory of Dairying. The general way that the art of Dairying has been carried on for Ages, has been progressive, or traditional, being taught by Mother to Daughter, from common and continual experience; naturally adopting from time to time, the methods that appear’d best from such as have happened to come within their own knowledge; without ever calling in the assistance of either Philosophy, by which they might learn the different qualities, and effect of materials they use, or knowledge, how to apply them in a Physical, or Practical manner. And although the Author of this Treatise, is very conscious of the deficiency of his own knowledge; yet has great hopes that from the desire of making himself useful to community, with the assistance of reason and common sense, he shall be able to render some assistance, to those he wishes to serve. A kind providence hath provided for all our wants; Nature, as Nature, is compleat in all its parts; we, often in trying to improve it, distort, or throw it into confusion; our Ideas being inadequate to the attempt. Where nature points out, or leaves any open for improvement, in the use of any of the common necessarys of Life, it is the duty of individuals to take the hint, and endeavour to explain them for Public good. The present System of Dairying, being in a very imperfect state, I am in hopes, my endeavours to render service and improvement, will not be found unnecessary.

A Cow, may I think justly be stiled, the most useful of all Animals, in regard to Man; Milk is a support to our Infancy and greatly contributes both to our comfort and support through Life, not only supplying our present wants, by that salubrious aliment, but our future wants, not only at home, but abroad; by the Cheese and Butter produced from it, it supplies us, even with many luxuries in our taste, is a great support to weakly constitutions by its Veal, as well as a great support in the Article of Provisions, afforded when alive; when Dead, is to us the grand stamina of our Food, Beef, being the most nourishing and agreeable repast; it not only supports us at home, but supplies our Fleets, our Armies, our Garrisons and Islands all over the World; its Leather, so useful for Shoes, for Implements of Husbandry, for Travelling, and for innumerable Conveniences; its Hair for our Buildings and other purposes; its Tallow for our Light at Home and Abroad; its Horns and Hoofs, and even its very Bones for our Implements, and various Materials of Trade. Were all its excellencies enumerated; they would be very extensive.

Milk, must be allowed one of its most useful productions; it is given for our use in a pure, wholesome, and nutritive state; capable of improvements, or alterations, of its nature, according to our different wants. In the Article of Cheese, and Butter, a great deal depends on the Art, Judgment, Care and Diligence of the Performer, and the good or bad qualities of each, chiefly depend on the skill and industry of the Dairy-woman. On a judicious observation you will find, that Milk is generally found even at different Seasons, to be of a regular and equal stamina, or quality, and in the same manner affected by different fluxings; by Salts, Liquids, Spirits, &c. at all times; the business of Cheese making, is a regular and constant proceeding, practised perpetually, every Day, time immemorial; and it seems strange, that when the ingredients you employ are so few, and their nature also so exceeding regular, and certain, that there can be much difficulty, in producing the Article of Cheese pure, and compleat; but daily experience convinces us, that there is an amazing difference in the goodness of Cheese, insomuch that you can scarce find two Dairys that are exactly, or even very much alike; it does not occur to the knowledge of every one what that difference is, but to a Person who deals largely in it, and makes observations upon it, must plainly appear; and though so few have ever attempted to scrutinize the nature of Cheese, or particularly of Cheese making, in a manner that yields conviction to its improvements; yet there is no reason, why that useful branch of knowledge cannot, or may not, be clearly explained.

The business has been in the hands of the Women hitherto, except in _Cheshire_, _Wilts_, some part of _Gloucestershire_, &c. where a large quantity of Cheese is made, a Man is employ’d as an assistant, the weight of a large _Cheshire_ Cheese, being too great to be wrought by a Woman, and turning, rubbing, washing, and cleaning, is more than one Man can easily perform; ’tis common in large Dairys, to meet with Cheeses, Eighty, one Hundred, one Hundred and Twenty, or even one Hundred and Forty pounds a Cheese, which requires considerable strength to manage. In some part of _North-Wiltshire_, I am informed there are Dairys that make Twenty-five Tons in a Year; and some few more than that. A Gentleman told me, that being lately at _Bath_, he was informed of a Person within less then Twenty Miles, who Milk’d 200 Cows: Which led his curiosity to take a ride to see it, being a considerable Factor, who had frequent opportunity of buying Dairys of Four, Five, or Six Tons each; but had never met with any Dairy of that extent. On hearing the recital of it, led me to the same thought as would naturally strike him, viz. what sort of a House or Premises the Person must have to cure, spread or dispose of such a quantity of Cheese, to get it ready for Sale? When he came to the Place, he found the report was true, but then he milked these 200 Cows at three different Houses, in number proportionable to the convenience or situation of the Place. We often hear talk of _Cheshire_ Dairys of 100 Cows each, which the largeness of the Cheese in a great measure accounts for. But what are called large Dairys in _Warwickshire_, _Leicestershire_, _Staffordshire_, or _Derbyshire_, is from 20 to 40 Cows each; in these parts, from general observations I have made, each Dairy may produce annually on an average three Hundred Weight of Cheese from each Cow, taking the Dairys in general. I am inclined to think more Dairys produce less than that quantity, than there are that produce more; but this is observable, much the greater number of Dairys, are on Tillable, or Arable Farms, where new Grass is introduced, which is always allowed to make less Cheese than good old Turf; and the proportion of up-land Farms, is much greater than of low-land. I have weighed many times Four Hundred from a Cow, and some few Dairys which have produced Five Hundred from each Cow; but then in scrutinizing into the affair, I find it has been attended with particular circumstances, such as being situate, in an excellent Grass Country, where Meadows of dry Old Turf have been the Pasture, where clear streams of running Water have gone through the Meadows, affording always good Beverage for the Cows, as well as a cool retreat for them in Hot Weather; by which means their Milk was kept in a temperate state, while Cows on up-lands, perhaps scorched with heat, and not having the nourishing stream to go to, or shade to protect them from the Sun, cause their gadding, or running about to such a degree, as prevented the increase of their Milk, in any proportion to what the running stream produced; and throw’d the Cows into such a heat and disorder, that their Milk would not yield near the quantity of Curd, and caused many difficulties in making the Cheese, which the cooler Dairys were not exposed to, (especially, when under the hand of an unskilful Dairy-woman,) likewise, in these prolific Dairys, the owner made a point of never keeping a Cow that was too old Milcht, or Milk’d too long from the time of Calving, or when any Cow went off her Milk either by any accident, or otherwise; then the Dairy-man always replaced her with a new Milcht one, either drying the old Milcht one for feeding, or disposing of her. That so the Dairy by that means was kept in full vigour through the Grass Season. The number of these Dairys is so very few and rare, they can only at most show the World what may be done. I have been told by a _Wiltshire_ Factor, that the Land in their principal Dairy Country, is so Rich and Good that it is not very uncommon there for prime Dairys to yield five Hundred of Cheese from a Cow; but then there is also every Advantage in their Favour; such as (I believe no body who judgeth from the goodness of their Cheese, but must allow) the best of Dairy-women, who have been regularly bred to it from their Childhood, it generally being almost the sole employ of the Farm, and those Dairy-women led on by the greatest and most powerful emulation, of selling for the highest Price. Their Cheese being generally sold, retail, at a penny, and often two-pence per Pound, more than good Cheese in common. Their Cheese, that is made in the prime of the Season, generally known in the country by the name of _Marlborough_ Cheese, being much brought to Fairs by _Marlborough_ Factors, or People residing not far from thence. Or in _London_, by the name of _North Wiltshire_ Cheese, which always bears the greatest Price of any Dairys, except those of _Gloucestershire_; which, even the finest of _Barclay Hundred_, do scarce come up to: And I believe by many judicious People, some of the _Wiltshire_ Dairys are even allowed to excel. Likewise, in many very principal Dairys, they have this great Advantage; where Gentlemen in some places, occupying a large tract of Ground, or Lordship, either themselves, Stewards, Bayliff, or some other Person for them, Stock the whole or chief Part with Milking Cows, which they are very particular to get to come in, or calve, by the Time Grass is in Vigour. Then these Dairy People agree with them for the Milk of such a number of Cows, as they can manage at a given Price per Week. The Gentleman, Bailiff, _&c._ engaging, that if any Cow fails in her Milk before a given Time, that he will take her away and replace her with a new Milcht one, by which means their Dairys are always in full Power all Summer; and then they engage for the Winter Dairy, at a Price proportioned to the state of the Cows, either new, or old Milcht, by which means they are certainly enabled to make a larger quantity of Cheese than any common Dairy, or Land of inferior kind without these Advantages. And in many Dairys they make Cheese all the Year, as the quantity of Winter Cheese, and Fodder Cheese, sent to _London_ Markets clearly shews.--Much depends on the situation of Dairy-ground, being nearer, or farther from the House, where the Cheese is made, as Cows being driven any considerable distance to be Milked, causeth the Milk to Heat in their Udders in Summer-time; Milking them in the Field and carrying the Milk on Horse-back in Churns, or Barrels to much Distance, I take to be still worse, as that perpetually disturbs the Milk, inclining it to the nature of Churning Cream for Butter, and the operation performed upon it, is quite of a different nature, as it is for a different purpose or design, and if Milk is put in a violent Motion by carrying, it makes it in some degree partake of the nature of Churning, insomuch, that you often observe round the Bung, Plug, or Stopple of the Churn, a Froth or Scum, work out by force of Air, or Motion in carrying, that very nearly partakes of the nature of Butter, which plainly shews that the Body of Milk, cannot be in a proper State to make Cheese with, as Butter is produced by violent Motion, and the making of Cheese from a state of Rest, being directly opposite. I take it that oftentimes in very Hot Weather, the Milk in a Cow’s Udder, much agitated by driving, or running about, is in a state not very far different from that carried in a Churn, which frequently makes the great difficulty in what is called bringing the Cheese or fixing the Curd in the Tub, or Pan; I have often heard Dairy-women say that ’tis sometimes very difficult to make it come at all, and instead of one Hour, (the Time very commonly given by Dairy-women, in bringing the Cheese,) that it will frequently not come in Three, Four, or Five Hours; and then in such an imperfect state, as to be scarce capable of being confined either in the Cheese-Vat or Press, and when released from the Press, will heave, or puff up, by Splitting or Jointing, according as the nature or state of the Curd happens to be. Whenever People find their Cows in this situation which in Hot Summer Evenings must often happen, especially, where Water is scarce, or in Grounds where there is very little Shade; then it is, that making use of a little cold Spring Water before earning, or rendling, is useful; as that will make the Runnet take effect & the Milk coagulate much sooner. It often happens, in some Dairys, that the Work is quite at a stand, the Dairy-woman not knowing how to hasten the co-agulum, or coming of the Cheese, thinks of putting more Runnet in, to forward it; but the nature of Runnet being such, as will dissolve the Curd, in part co-agulated, if more is put in; disturbs the whole, and prevents its becoming Curd at all, or, in a very imperfect manner, remaining in the Whey, in an undigested state that will neither turn to Curd or Cream, and a principal part of the richest of the Milk is then cast away with the Whey. Cold Water, with a little Salt, (as hereafter recommended) will in a great measure prevent this difficulty. One great Point, or Thing to be observed, in first setting off, or rendling the Milk, is carefully to observe the state of the Milk, as to Heat or Cold; the grand medium, or state it should be in when you put the Runnet into it, is what may be properly understood, Milk-warm; if you find it to be warmer than that, it is recommended, to put some fresh Spring Water into it, in such quantity, as will reduce it to the Milk-warm state; a Quart, Two, Three, Four or more according to the quantity of Milk to be so cooled; many People may think Water will hurt the Milk or impoverish the Cheese; experience shews it will not, but is a means of the Runnet more immediately striking or operating with the Milk. I would recommend the use of a Thermometer, to shew the degree of Heat Milk bears. I doubt not one may be constructed on a very easy Plan, that will cost a very little Money, and it will be very well worth while to be at a small Charge, to regulate a fault, of putting Milk together too Hot, which is of more ill consequence than People are aware of. The same use holds good in putting Milk together for Butter; it is observed, that Milk being set up too Hot, will not throw up Cream near so well, as when in a temperate state, and causes it sooner to turn sour.[1]

As soon as the Milk is reduced to a proper warmth, and before you put the Runnet to it, it is an exceeding good way to put a handful or two of Salt into the Milk, or three or four handfuls if your quantity is large (I recommend about two handfuls to ten or twelve Cow’s Milk;) this will also cause the Runnet to Work quick, and giving a Saltness to the whole, will be a means of preventing Sweet, or Funkey Cheese, as it will make the Cheese all Salt alike, be a means to prevent Slip Curd, or Slippery Curd, make the Curd sink in the Tub more readily, and equally.[2] If your Milk is too Cold, let some Milk be warmed and put into it, to bring it to the state of Milk-Warm, observing not to warm a small quantity to make it boil, as boiling alters the nature of Milk in some degree; scalding Heat is thought to set the Curd, making it Tough, that it is judged best, to warm a tolerable good quantity of Milk pretty warm, that it may give warmth to the whole in a sufficient degree. Sometimes you will find in Cold Weather, your Milk in the time of earning, get Chill; I have known in such a case, a Person take a Tea Kettle of Hot Water and put into it, with success; let it be when the Curd is nearly, or pretty well come, as then the Hot Water will give a Toughness to the Curd, to relieve it from the slippery nature it had acquired by being Chill, and that Chilness continuing to encrease, it is with difficulty you can bring your Cheese into a regular or fixed state. It is a very common way with many Dairy-women to allow the Milk to stand an Hour, in earning, or after the Runnet is put in, before it is gather’d, or sunk; many I fear content themselves with thinking it sufficiently come in less time, _But here_ lies the greatest mischief in Cheese-making; the Milk is very often disturbed before its proper time, and sometimes when the whole is in a state of Slip-Curd, or Slippery Curd, which is a state all Curd is in, before it becomes solid Curd, or Curd, fit to make Cheese with. You are always to observe that the state in which it is when you first stir or disturb it, in that state the Curd will remain; it never improves as Curd, or becomes better Curd after it is disturbed or removed from its state of rest.

You will generally observe, that when you sink the Curd in the Tub, even when it is in a tolerable good state, as many imagine, there will bits of Slip-Curd swim about in the Whey and not sink with the rest, till the Whey is laden from it: That slip-Curd will not adhere to, or join with the solid Curd, and though ever so well broke or separated, yet in whatever state it is, when the Cheese is made, it all dissolves, or melts; if a bit as big as a Nut happens together, it dissolves into a Whey-Spring, runs out, and leaves a hole in the Cheese, which always decays in that place; if a bit as big as a Pin’s-head happens, it dissolves, and leaves an Eye in its place, and that is the cause of Eyes in Cheese; if you cut the Cheese when young, you will find, that there is a Moisture, or Wet, in every Place where the Eye is after it is dried up, which Wet or Moisture is called Tears.[3]

When a large quantity of slip-Curd is in a Cheese, ’tis a long Time before it becomes hard, appearing always loose within; which, when the Cheese is dry, on cutting, it appears like a Honey-comb.

The thing that more Dairy-women err in, than any other, is gathering or sinking the Cheese too soon. The rendling of Cheese, causeth a very great Fermentation; there must be time given for the fixt Air in Cheese, or Curd, set to work by the Runnet, to dissipate, expand, or fly off. Runnet is a thing so powerful in its effect, as to have no substitute yet found that can be used in its place; all Fermentations remove or separate the fixed Air, from the different Bodies they are connected with.

The effect of Runnet on Milk is very great, and in order to thoroughly fix the Curd, it must have sufficient Time to work, concrete, or congeal the Curd into a solid Mass by extirpating the Air from it; if you remove or disturb the Milk before its full Time, yet the Runnet having begun its operation, though you do not give it Time to work, by reason of hurrying it forwards, yet when it is again at rest, such Air as hath not been separated, by breaking, squeezing or pressing, will extend itself, and the Air will find a vent, or expand itself into a greater compass than it was before confined in; and whether it is in the Press, or after it comes out of the Press, will find a way to discharge itself; many times to that degree, when in the Press, as to even burst the Cheese-cloth it is wrapt in, if it is so confined that it cannot escape by it. If it does not get discharged otherways, then, as soon as the Press is let up, it will shatter the Cheese within to a surprizing degree, and immediately cause the Cheese to heave, or puff up, even in that state, which so separates the Curd in the Cheese, as it seldom settles again, unless taken quite in Time, or before the Curd is connected in the Press. A good way to prevent this disorder, of what is called Cheese heaving in the Press, from taking a bad effect, which complaint generally happens when the Milk is put together too hot, and the Whey that comes from it, is left white (which it ought never to be, for then you may be sure all is not right); when the Cheese has first been in the Press an Hour or more, let the Press up and if you find the Cheese swell, or blister, take a large Needle, or fine Skewer, of Wood or Iron, and pierce it in many places to let the Air out; a Pin is not so well, as Brass taints the Cheese, and it will appear of a tainted brassy colour ever after: If you find when the Cheese comes again out of the Press, that it still swells, or blisters, apply the Needle again, and it may perhaps settle again so as to make a useful Cheese; it will never be a good one, but will remain in the state called loose Cheese or shook Cheese. Thus you may discern somewhat of the nature of slip-Curd; every Dairy-woman should take care to become as well informed of the different properties, its nature, cause of its Formation, and manner of operating as possible, in order thereby to avoid the many difficulties proceeding from it, which are more numerous than all others, in the whole system of Cheese-making put together, and have been by them, the least considered and examined. In order to avoid many difficulties, and render you complete Mistress of the first part of the work, which is a very material Crisis, take care to be well informed of the nature of Maw-skin or Runnet-skin; it is very proper every Dairy-woman should know how to prepare them for use, which is very easily acquired; to know in what manner or to what degree it should be salted, and how, properly dried, and take particular care that you have the Maw fresh, not in a tainted or putrid state, you may happen to have such a misfortune as to have it damaged either by neglect, as to Time of preparing it, great heat of Weather, which sometimes hurts our best and freshest Meat in a surprizing degree, notwithstanding every care or caution taken to prevent it, or by the Skin having any way taken Wet, or being Fly-blown; to many of which mishaps the most careful Person, is sometimes exposed; any of which quite alter the nature of it; being of a more particular construction than any other thing, which must appear plain, when ’tis considered, that you cannot substitute or apply any one Thing, in the Article of making Cheese to a proper effect, or that will answer your purpose of extracting Curd from Milk in order to make Cheese with, but Maw-skin; and you will find that when the Skin is damaged or tainted, it looses its fermenting quality considerably; that it will either not take effect at all, or in a very partial and slow degree, and you will often find Cheese made from tainted Maw-skin appear of a putrid, unsettled, ill-tasted, discoloured nature, being affected in a different manner, according to the degree of Putrifaction the Maw-skin has received. Sometimes I have perceived the Cheese of a dusky black colour, not fixt in its Texture, or become solid and close; sometimes, in Taste resembling the flavour of tainted Beef or Mutton, when it comes to your Table; sometimes it has the smell of rotten or addled Eggs, sometimes of the most insipid or tasteless nature, which on enquiring into the cause, could never be explained to me by the Maker. Sometimes an ingenious, well-disposed Person, who wished for Improvement, or to become acquainted with the nature or consequence of such complaint, would hint to me, her fear was, the Maw-skin was damaged; tho’ I have had some, who instead of being open to conviction, or that would pay any regard either to my Opinion or Advice, would tell me that could not be cause, for they always prepared their own Maw-skins, and no one could be more careful to cure them properly, which was the reason they always avoided buying Skins as much as possible, for fear of that misfortune. All this care and precaution I doubt not was just, as from the great care many People take of their Dairy in every other respect, would be particularly cautious about their Maw-skins; but let themselves judge, whether some of the afore recited causes, might not happen to their best endeavours. When I have come to a place where the Dairy-woman has informed me she has been deceived in her Maw-skins, being then I thought on sure ground, or certainty of the cause, I have been very careful to become acquainted with the real nature of the ill effects produced in consequence thereof, and have always found some of the evils before-mentioned, and could often judge from the state I found the Cheese in, in what manner, or to what degree it was affected thereby, and even so as often to convince the Maker of it, that my Opinion was right. If at any Time this misfortune is apparent to you, that some neglect, or mishap has taken place in curing your Maw-skins, you will easily guess from which of the above causes they spring; and perhaps in a course of Time, you may become well convinced, that every one of these mischances do sometimes happen, and as you must certainly be a better, or more competent judge of the real nature of the complaints, (than any other Person can be from common observation,) you will most likely, find other causes of damage, or misfortune that happens in the process, more than I have enumerated; and if any material one, it would be exceeding useful to have it made Public, for the benefit of Society, or to warn those of the damage, whose Business it is to supply the Market with Skins for Sale. When you perceive any of your Skins have miscarried, that they are either tainted, or otherways damaged, take particular notice how they appear; in what respect they differ from perfect Skins, knowing, that the like causes produce similar effects, and then if you are obliged to buy Skins, you will be enabled to avoid buying such as have the faults you are acquainted with. I have often been led, when in a Shop where Maw-skins were on Sale, to examine them somewhat minutely, and could perceive in some of them much difference; I have seen in the same Skin sometimes, the appearance of very different qualities; I have observed discoloured Spots on holding it up to the Light; I have seen one part of a Skin of a well-coloured sound nature, another part that had somewhat the look of rough Parchment, or hard Whit-leather; on smelling, it has not appeared of the same nature, or relish, with the rest; I have also observed Skins that have appeared quite tainted, and even in a decaying state, and have seen Rendless after being made, appear of a dusky blackish colour. A Dairy-woman should be acquainted with these complaints, in order to avoid the difficulty that inevitably accrues for want of that knowledge, and should frequently taste the Runnet when made, that she may find out in Time if there is any thing disagreeable attends it; for there is no making good Cheese with bad Runnet.

The Maw-skin, or bag of the Abomasus, is the Maw or Stomach of Calves, that have fed on nothing but Milk, and are killed before the digestion is perfected, it contains an Acid Juice called Runnet, Rennet, or Earning, with which Milk is co-agulated, or rendered into Curd for making Cheese; in the Maw the Chyle is formed, that causes this co-agulum; but it greatly looses this effect, when Calves have fed on Vegetable Food; the Maw of House-Lamb, I am informed will answer the same purpose, but not of Grass Lamb. I have heard of a person who Salted the Curd, or Crudity that was found in the Maw at the Time the Calf was killed, prepared as the Maw-skin is, with good effect, only used in a larger quantity. This may easily be tried by way of experiment; I never heard of but one Person who used it, and she is now dead; that prevented my enquiry about it. Since the above was publish’d I am informed, that in the last Age, the principal part of the Cheese was made from the Curd, of the Maw prepared with Salt, till it was found the Skin was of a more clean and wholesome nature. It is observable as an old Maxim, that although Runnet readily co-agulates Milk, yet if put in when already co-agulated, it dissolves it.

There are many ways of making, or preparing Maw-skins; the best and most approved I ever met with is, as soon as your Maw is got cold, when taken from the Calf (for ’tis known that salting Meat hot, in sultry Weather, will make it taint,) let it be a little swilled in Water; some People say ’tis better not to be clean’d at all, and the effect will be greater, it coming nearer to real nature, and the reason given, is this, ’tis the inside of the Maw that has the effect in Runnet, and the chyle proceeding from it, the outside being little otherwise than any other Entrail. Rub the Maw well with Salt, then fill it, and afterwards cover it with Salt; some cut them open and spread them in Salt, one over another in layers, and let them continue in the Brine they produce, sometimes stirring, or turning them, for four, six, or nine Months, as they can spare them, then open them to dry, being stretched out with sticks or splints, that they may dry regularly; when they are dry they may be used; though, ’tis reckon’d best to be a Year Old before used, keeping them one Year under another. Do not let them in drying, be too near a Fire; if heated too much, renders them liable to reeze, (as Bacon will, when melted by heat,) and hurts their quality, giving them a rancid taste; many People think, the Brine they are prepared in, very useful in making your Runnet, putting it amongst it as other Brine, with smaller proportion of Runnet. People differ in their way of preparing Runnet or Rendless. Many will make it with Whey; some will put in with the Whey, the Brine drippings that come from the Cheese when in the Press. Both these I quite disapprove; Whey, having already undergone purgation, fermentation, or separation of the Curd from Milk, is more likely to become viscid, or gummy, acrid, or sharp, or liable to putrifaction than a more pure element. Brine drippings are of a gross foul nature, and may be deem’d, (if the expression may be allowed) even the very excrements of Cheese-making, and what ought never to be put in, in order to bring the Cheese, causing a rank and foul smell as well as taste, I take it to be the worst of all disagreeables.

The way most approved by good Dairy-women, or such as have fallen within my knowledge is this; take pure Spring Water, in quantity proportion’d to the Runnet you intend to make; it is thought best by some, about two Skins to a Gallon of Water; boil the Water, which makes it softer or more pure, make it with Salt into Brine that will swim an Egg, then let it stand till the heat is gone off, to about the heat of Blood warm, then put your Maw-skin in, either cut in pieces or whole: the former I should imagine best or most convenient; letting it steep for twenty-four Hours, or two Meals, (so called in Dairying) and it is fit for use, putting such a quantity into your Milk as you judge necessary, for rendling your quantity of Milk into Curd; observing that too much Runnet makes the Cheese strong and liable to heave, and is what many People call, tastes of the Bull, or Bull Cheese (especially when Brine drippings are put in.) Too little Runnet makes it very mild, and must have more time to stand, before it is broke, or sunk: The judgment required, in the quantity of Runnet, to be used must be regulated by your own prudence, increasing or lessening it as you find it necessary; ’tis often reckon’d, about a Tea-cup full, to ten Cows Milk. If you make a quantity of Runnet together to keep for use, let the same method be used, increasing the quantity of each material to what you want, putting it in jars or bottles, till you want it.

I have frequently heard Dairy-women mention putting in rose leaves and spices of different kind into the Rennet at the Time of preparing it, in order to give it a relish, and make the Cheese fine flavor’d.

_Mr. Hazard_, in his Essay to the _Bath_ Society gives a receipt for making Rennet after this manner; when the Maw-skin is well prepared and fit for the purpose, three pints or two quarts of soft Water (clean and sweet) should be mix’d with Salt, wherein should be put sweet briar, rose leaves and flowers, cinamon, mace, cloves, and in short almost every sort of spice and aromatic that can be procured, and if these are put into two quarts of Water they must boil gently till the liquor is reduced to three pints, and care should be taken that this liquor is not smoaked; it should be strained clear from the spices &c. and when found to be not warmer than Milk from the Cow, it should be poured upon the Vell or Maw, a lemon may then be sliced into it, when it may remain, a day or two, after which, it should be strain’d again and put in a bottle, where if well corked, it will keep good for twelve months or more, it will smell like a perfume, and a small quantity of it will turn the Milk and give the Cheese a pleasing flavour--he farther adds--after this, if the Vell or Maw, be salted and dried for a week or two near the Fire, it will do for the purpose again almost as well as before.

A very material circumstance to be attended to in Cheese-making, is the time allow’d for the Cheese coming, or from the time allow’d for the Runnet to take effect, or the time when the Milk is at rest, called earning time.[4] Which should on no account be less than an hour and half; all that is stirred, gather’d, or sunk, in less time is liable to danger. It may happen, and often does, that it will come sooner, especially when the method I have recommended of putting Salt in the Milk is used, and where care is taken to have the Milk of a proper warmth, as in these cases the Curd co-agulates or collects sooner on that account; I believe it will be found that the additional time given will never be of any bad consequence, as the Curd then gets firm, and on sinking, becomes more solid, and is easier made into Cheese, in less time, and with much less trouble, than when stirred or broke sooner. What is called sunk Cheese is always allowed to be the fattest; when Curd is fully set, or fixed of a solid nature, by having time enough, it will incline to sink to the bottom of the Tub, by the assistance of the Hand to gently Press it down, gather, or collect it, and will soon become of a solid nature; most People break the Curd, by stirring it round several times with the Bowl, in order that it may be collected together. Sinking, is performed by getting it down, or sinking with the Hand, without breaking.

In order to prevent a difficulty in getting the Whey to separate easily when sinking the Curd, you may prepare a long Cheese Knife made with a Lath, one edge being sharpened to cut the Curd a cross from top to bottom, in the Tub, three or four different times crossing the lines, checkerwise, by which means the Whey rises through the vacancies made by the Knife, and the Curd sinks with much more ease. I have also known a sieve used to facilitate or hasten the Curd sinking, with success, as it gives an opportunity to lade off the Whey clear from Curd, gets the Curd down much easier and saves time.