Chapter XXI

1866.

SIXTH JOURNEY TO THE HOLY LAND--A NEW JEWISH CENSUS--THE
PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS--DEATH OF DR HODGKIN--ARRIVAL
IN JERUSALEM.

_January 26th, 1866._--Sir Moses had the satisfaction of hearing from the Foreign Office that the grievances of which the Jews of Persia complained, and which were happily now about to be removed, where unknown to the Shah. Sir A. H. Layard thus addresses him on the subject:

"FOREIGN OFFICE, _January 26th, 1866_.

"DEAR SIR,--I have much pleasure in informing you, by direction of the Earl of Clarendon, that it appears, from a report which has this day been received from Her Majesty's Minister in Persia, that in consequence of his representations with respect to your petition to the Shah, His Majesty has addressed an autograph letter to the Sipeh-salar, in which he signifies to his Prime Minister that it has come to his knowledge that his Jewish subjects suffer from oppression; and that being contrary to his wishes, the Sipeh-salar is strictly enjoined to see that the Jews are henceforward treated with justice and kindness."

When this communication became known, Sir Moses received many letters of congratulation on his success; but the appreciation of his exertions only prompted him to expedite as much as possible his preparations for his next journey to Jerusalem.

_February 17th._--He attended Divine service, at eight o'clock in the morning, at the Spanish and Portuguese Synagogue. The Lord Mayor, Sir Benjamin Philips, was present, and opened the Ark containing the Sacred Scrolls of the Pentateuch, when a special prayer was offered up for a prosperous journey for Sir Moses. In the afternoon he attended Divine service at the great Synagogue of the German Congregation, where the Chief Rabbi offered up a special prayer, which was also done in all the other Synagogues.

_February 18th._--He went for a day's retirement to Smithembottom. "I find," he says, "I am gradually getting weaker, but I am indeed most grateful for the many blessings I have so long enjoyed."

_February 26th._--Sir Moses left Ramsgate for Dover, where he met Mr and Mrs Sebag (now Sebag Montefiore), Dr Hodgkin, and the writer, who were to be his companions on this journey.

I shall now give the reader an account of the Mission, but for the more important facts I shall use his own words as addressed to the Board of Deputies.

On Tuesday morning, the 27th February, we left England, travelling
_viâ_ Paris and Marseilles to Alexandria. On arriving at this
world-famous city, we repaired to the Synagogue, the Kenees
Eleeyahoo, which is built on the spot where it is said the celebrated
Temple of Alexandria, or Onias, once stood (modern authors maintain
that the "Temple of Onias" was at a place known by the name of
"Tel-el-yahood"), and there offered thanks to our Heavenly Father
for having guided us safely to the shores of Egypt. On stepping into
the boat at Alexandria Sir Moses hurt his foot. This necessitated
a stay of a few days, which he devoted to the arrangement of all
the documents which might be required for use in the Holy Land, and
also to receiving information brought to him by Háhám Joseph Burla
and other persons from Jerusalem. On Sunday, the 18th of March, we
left Alexandria, and arrived at Jaffa the next day about 1.30 P.M.
On landing Sir Moses was received by his Excellency the Governor
of the town, by the Judge, the Commander of the Troops, and the
representatives of the various religious denominations. Numerous
deputations called to congratulate him on his safe arrival. Mr Consul
Moore, who came purposely to welcome him, most kindly made all the
necessary arrangements for the journey to the Holy City. In order to
ascertain the cause of the destitution which there prevailed, and
to devise proper plans for removing it, Sir Moses caused certain
statistical forms and documents to be prepared, in which returns were
to be made of the number of synagogues, colleges, schools, charities,
and institutions belonging to our co-religionists in the Holy Land,
as well as the ages, property, occupations, and families of its
inhabitants. A similar method was adopted by Sir Moses in 1838.

For the purpose of having the blanks in these papers properly filled
up, they were distributed amongst the representatives of the several
congregations in the Holy Land, then present at Jaffa, and messengers
were despatched with like papers to the authorities of distant
congregations.

It was Sir Moses' intention to proceed to Jerusalem after only one
day's sojourn at Jaffa, but this intention was frustrated by the
illness of Dr Hodgkin. "Being most reluctant to leave him," Sir Moses
writes, "I remained with him up to the latest moment, until it became
absolutely necessary to depart for Jerusalem, in order to arrive
there in time for the Passover holidays. At this time I received
descriptions of the sufferings and fearful loss of life occasioned
to our unfortunate brethren by the recent outbreak of the cholera.
Very frequently these afflicting narratives were interrupted by the
appearance upon our windows of the new and still green locusts, which
we were informed were the much dreaded forerunners of another bad
season. Many a morning, before sunrise, we heard the rattling of the
drum to awaken the inhabitants of Jaffa to the fulfilment of their
duty, each to collect a measure of locusts before daybreak, so that
the threatening enemy might be destroyed, for the appearance of these
locusts is the more dreaded on account of the belief that it always
brings in its train some epidemic disease, the woeful consequences of
which had so recently been experienced.

"While at Jaffa I had frequently expressed my strong desire either
to remain there with my lamented friend, to take him with me to
Jerusalem, or to relinquish my journey thither, and return with
him to Europe; but all my friends assured me that it would be most
imprudent for Dr Hodgkin to travel at that time, and that the best
and only advisable course was to let him remain in the house of Mr
Kyát, the British Consular Agent, under the most kind and watchful
attendance of that gentleman and of his family, with whom he had
been staying since our arrival at Jaffa. Advice so earnestly urged,
I could not but follow. Accordingly, on Sunday, the 25th of March,
having previously secured the professional services of Dr Sozzi,
the physician of the Lazaretto, and left my own English servant,
and likewise engaged another, to be constantly in attendance on my
esteemed friend, I reluctantly quitted Jaffa for Jerusalem, after
paying a farewell visit to my friend, in the full hope of being soon
rejoined by him, and having for this purpose left for his convenience
the Takhteerawán,[5] which the Governor of Jerusalem had kindly sent
to Jaffa for my own use. This hope, however, was not destined to be
realised. Unfortunately the state of health of my lamented friend had
not been, previously to his departure from England, as satisfactory
as his friends could have wished; and, indeed, he left home to
accompany me on my journey, in the hope and belief that the voyage
and change of air would prove beneficial to him. I have at least
much consolation in reflecting that all that could be done was made
available for the preservation of his valuable life.

"It has pleased the Almighty to take him from us, and that he
should not again behold his loving consort and beloved relatives;
he breathed his last in a land endeared to him by hallowed
reminiscences. To one so guileless, so pious, so amiable in private
life, so respected in his public career, and so desirous to assist
with all his heart in the amelioration of the condition of the human
race, death could not have had any terror.

"I trust I may be pardoned for this heartfelt but inadequate tribute
to the memory of my late friend. His long and intimate association
with me, and with my late dearly beloved wife, his companionship in
our travels, and the vivid recollection of his many virtues, make me
anxious to blend his name, and the record of his virtues, with the
narrative of these events.

"On leaving Jaffa, I was escorted on my way by the dignitaries of
the town, accompanied by a large number of persons, cavasses, and
soldiers. They proceeded a few hours' ride, until we reached the
village of Ramlah. On approaching this village, we were met by its
governor with troops, and, thus escorted, entered Ramlah, and took
up our abode there at the Russian Hospice, where we found all the
comforts a traveller could desire. On Monday, the 26th of March, we
continued our journey as far as Aboo Goosh, supposed to be the Kiryát
Yĕárim of Scripture, where Abinádáb dwelt, in whose house, on the top
of the hill, the Ark of the Lord had been placed, when taken from
the Philistines of Beth Shémásh. The present chief, Mahommed Effendi
Aboo Goosh, a man of great authority and importance, sent his brother
to invite us to his house, and subsequently came himself to request
the acceptance of his hospitality, a request with which I readily
complied. The house of our host was situate on the summit of the
hill, and the road to it was so rough and precipitous that I thought
many a time my Takhteerawán would break to pieces. The fatigue,
however, which I endured was amply compensated by the cordial
hospitality with which I was welcomed.

"Many deputations from Jerusalem and Hebron had arrived during the
night, and on our leaving the village of Aboo Goosh, at an early
morning hour, there could be seen from the neighbouring hills a
considerable number of persons directing their course towards us,
and not far from the Village Colonia I had the pleasure of again
meeting our excellent Consul, Mr Noel Moore, who came from Jerusalem
to welcome me. I was told, as we proceeded, of the great sufferings
which the people of Jerusalem had endured during the prevalence of
the epidemic, and was assured in glowing words of the benefit which
the people anticipated from my visit, expecting, as they did, to
receive direct relief from me. This clearly proved the difficulty
and delicate nature of the task that lay before me, for my principal
object in visiting Jerusalem was not so much to afford pecuniary aid
to the people, as to ascertain what could be done for them, so as to
remove the more permanent causes of their trouble.

"Every moment brought new comers, until a few hours' journey from
the Holy City, the road and the adjacent hills became covered with
a concourse of people of all the different denominations. His
Highness, Izzet Pasha, the Governor of Jerusalem, sent forty horsemen
and cavasses, headed by their officer. My old friend, Akhmed Agha
Dizdar, formerly the Governor of Jerusalem under Mohammad Ali, also
came with his grandson and a number of his followers, the Rev. Haïm
David Házán, the Háhám Báshi, mounted on a beautiful Arab steed,
accompanied by the members of his ecclesiastical court--the spiritual
heads of the German congregation--the Rev. Samuel Salant, the Rev.
Meyer Auerbach, and all the members of their ecclesiastical court. I
believe, I may say without exaggeration, there were to be seen all
our brethren from Jerusalem who were capable of leaving the city,
headed by the representatives of their synagogues, colleges, and
schools, all hailing my approach with the exclamation,[6] 'Bárookh
Hábá,' 'Blessed be he who cometh.' By the roadside stood hundreds of
children, singing Hebrew hymns, which had been specially composed
for the occasion, and in which were recited the sufferings of Zion,
and the hope in Israel's future. I particularly noticed forty boys
from the Simon Edlen von Lämels school, whose healthy and neat
appearance, and beautifully harmonious voices, added greatly to the
impressiveness of a scene not easily to be forgotten. In truth, what
I then beheld, not without deep emotion, firmly convinced me that a
sincere interest in the welfare of the Holy Land does not, and will
not fail to arouse in the hearts of its inhabitants an enthusiastic
acknowledgment.

"We alighted for a short time to recite the customary prayers at
the site where the pilgrim or traveller first obtains a glimpse of
the Holy City, and afterwards proceeded to tents prepared for our
reception by the Háhám Báshi. Here refreshments were provided, and
congratulatory hymns chanted, but I would not tarry, being anxious
without delay to enter within the walls of Jerusalem; and again we
were met by crowds of persons crossing from the Hebron road, who
joined in procession towards the Jaffa Gate. On our arrival at the
gate, we halted to listen to the prayer of one of the chief officers
of the synagogue, in which he invoked God's blessing on the messenger
from a distant land, a prayer to which the vast concourse of persons
responded with a heart-stirring 'Amen!'

"My first duty on entering Jerusalem was to repair to the synagogue
'Kenees Istambooli,' there to render thanks to my Heavenly Father for
having permitted me to see Jerusalem this the sixth time; then after
prayers and thanksgiving from all present, we proceeded, amid shouts
of joy from the people, to the estate known as 'Kérém Moshe Vĕ
Yĕhoodit' situate on the Hill of Gichon.

"I had previously made known my willingness to receive communications
from every individual desirous of addressing me, either on his own
behalf or on that of the people in general. I had also appointed
stated times for the reception of all who might wish to address me
personally, and every available moment was employed in collecting
from all sources information that might be useful.

"A guard of honour from the Governor, as well as the cavasses of the
English Consul and of the Háhám Báshi, were stationed day and night
around our dwelling.

"The first day of our arrival was devoted to the distribution of the
remittances, which had been entrusted to me by several friends of
Jerusalem, with a special request to dispense the same to the poor.

"I also despatched letters and messages to persons who might be able
to furnish useful information, and thus amidst a numerous assembly
of visitors joining in the evening prayers, the first day's visit to
Jerusalem terminated."

[Footnote 5: A Sedan chair]

[Footnote 6: Hebrew script]