Chapter XXII

1866.

SIR MOSES' NARRATIVE CONTINUED--THE JERUSALEM WATER SUPPLY--SCHEME
FOR ISOLATING LEPERS--DEPUTATION FROM SAFED--THE JEWS AND
AGRICULTURE--UNFOUNDED ALLEGATIONS BY A PRETENDED AUSTRIAN CONSUL.

Sir Moses continues his narrative as follows:--

"Wednesday morning, the 28th of March, at 10 A.M., having been
appointed for my first visit to his Excellency, Izzet Pasha, I
proceeded to his palace, accompanied by Mr Consul Moore, Mr Sebag,
and Dr Loewe, and was received by his Excellency with the greatest
kindness and respect. In the course of my conversation with the
Governor, the scarcity of water in the city was the subject more
particularly adverted to, and his Excellency described the works
he had benevolently originated and superintended, with the view of
insuring a sufficient supply of that indispensable element. This
important topic will be more particularly referred to in a subsequent
part of this report. I will now only mention that the scheme which
the Governor had designed, and had already begun to carry out, was
to turn the three water reservoirs, generally known as the Pools
of Solomon, into two reservoirs, and to increase the force of the
fall of the waters from Urtas, in the vicinity of Etham into these
pools, by which means it was expected that within a few weeks a
plentiful supply of water would be secured to the city. The Governor,
however, seemed to intimate that there were difficulties in the way,
arising from the want of sufficient pecuniary means, and I thereupon
considered that having regard to the extensive and permanent
advantages, sanitary and otherwise, which would result from an
adequate supply of water to the Holy City, I should be carrying out
the intentions and wishes of the generous contributors to the Holy
Land Relief Fund, and of your Honourable Board, by devoting a portion
of the fund to this object. I placed, therefore, at the disposal
of the Governor the aforementioned sum of £200 in the name of the
donors to the Relief Fund, adding thereto £100 as my own individual
contribution.

"The Governor likewise mentioned to me the desirability of the
removal beyond the city gates of persons unhappily afflicted with
leprosy, and that to provide a proper place for their reception
would probably involve an expense of £1500. Although sensible of the
beneficial consequences likely to result from the proposed plan,
I did not consider myself justified in devoting to it any portion
of the Relief Fund which had been entrusted to me, and therefore
contented myself with contributing from my own private purse, £100,
to serve as a nucleus for further subscriptions towards the required
sum.

"During the conversation with his Excellency the Governor, I was
much pleased with the friendly sentiments he expressed towards our
English Consul in Jerusalem. 'Not only,' said he, 'do I entertain
the highest regard for Mr Moore in his capacity as representative
of the English Government, but I consider him a valued friend, an
enlightened statesman, and an accomplished scholar, in every respect
deserving the regard and attachment of all who have the pleasure of
his acquaintance.'

"On Thursday, March 29th, hearing of the sufferings of the poor,
and their inability to provide all the necessaries of life during
the approaching festival, I forwarded £100 to the Háhám Báshi, for
the poor of the Portuguese and Morocco communities, and I also
transmitted the like sum to the representatives of the German
congregation, for a similar purpose.

"During the first and second days of the Passover, I visited the
Touro almshouses. I satisfied myself that the inmates were fully
deserving of the advantages they were enjoying. These almshouses
are situated in the most healthy part of the suburbs of the Holy
City; scrupulous attention is paid to the preservation of order
and cleanliness, and the inmates are cheerful and happy, devoting
a portion of their time to religious observances and study; but
nevertheless, not neglecting the following of industrial pursuits.
I conversed with most of the inmates, who were mechanics, and found
there was no hesitation or reluctance in doing the hardest work
with the object of earning a sum, however small, towards their
maintenance. The inmates apply themselves to a variety of trades.

"The evidences of the industrial activity of the Israelites afforded
me much satisfaction. I was also gratified to observe the healthy
appearance of themselves and their children, more especially as most
of them are unable to incur the expense of providing themselves
and their families with animal food, except on the Sabbath. These
almshouses are so highly esteemed that even many inhabitants of the
city seek permission for a short sojourn there, for the recovery of
their health; and I even found that some of the back offices, only
intended for lumber rooms, had been actually, though without my
knowledge, appropriated as dwellings for several families.

"On Sunday, the 1st of April, the Governor of Jerusalem, accompanied
by his officers, honoured me by returning my visit. On this occasion
the condition of Jerusalem was fully and freely discussed; it was
estimated that at least fifteen per cent. of the poorer population
had been cut off by the cholera, the fearful ravages of which were
mainly attributable to the confined and unhealthy dwellings of the
poor, the insufficiency of water, and the impoverished state of the
inhabitants.

"The Governor during this visit kindly gave me permission to erect an
awning for the 'wailing place' near the western wall of the Temple,
so as to afford shelter and protection from rain and heat to pious
persons visiting this sacred spot.

"Monday, April 2nd, was the day which had been fixed for the
reception of the representatives and spiritual heads of the several
Congregations, and invitations had been previously sent to secure
as full and complete a representation as possible. At the appointed
time I had the satisfaction of finding that the invitation had been
cordially responded to on all sides, and of seeing myself surrounded,
in the presence of Dr Loewe and Mr and Mrs Sebag, by several hundreds
of the most respectable of the inhabitants of Jerusalem. There was
the Háhám Báshi, with the members of his Ecclesiastical Court; the
Revs. Meyer Fanadjil and Benveniste, together with some of the most
influential members of the Portuguese or Sephardim Congregation; the
Rev. Samuel Salant and Meyer Auerbach of the Perooshim and Warsaw
Congregations, and the Chief Rabbis of all the various communities
almost without exception, as well as the representatives of all
charitable institutions and colleges, with their officers.

"Having bid them a hearty welcome and expressed the delight I felt at
being amongst them for the sixth time, I proceeded to observe that
the object of my present visit was not so much that of rendering them
momentary relief by the distribution of money amongst their poor,
as to ascertain from them the most effectual measures which could
be adopted by their friends in other parts of the world, whither
my words might reach, in the hope of removing the real and more
permanent causes of poverty amongst my brethren in the Holy Land. I
concluded by assuring them of the ardent love I entertained for the
holy territory and its pious inhabitants, and by entreating them to
assist me freely and fully with all such advice and information as
might directly or indirectly further the object and purpose of my
mission.

"The Háhám Báshi was the first who, according to my request,
proceeded to enlighten me with his views. The reverend gentleman said
that, in his opinion, an increase in the number of proper dwellings
for the poor, and occupation in agricultural pursuits, would be the
safest remedy for securing the salubrity of the place and the comfort
of its inhabitants. The gentlemen in his retinue, the Revs. Fanadjil
and Benveniste, were of the same opinion; but, added the latter, the
cause of their (the Sephardim's) great poverty was to a great extent
the consequence of the heavy burden of debt which the Congregations
had incurred, and were obliged to incur from time to time,--a burden
which weighed most heavily on them. The Rev. Samuel Salant was next
addressed, and he entirely endorsed the opinion of the Háhám Báshi.
After attentively listening to all the speakers, I gathered that
there was a general consensus of opinion that increased accommodation
for the poor, providing them with remunerative occupation, the
granting of facilities for leaving the Holy Land to those who were
desirous of emigrating, the establishment of building and loan
societies, and permission to open butchers' shops, were some of the
most essential means that could be devised to alleviate the then
distressful condition of the inhabitants.

"The representatives subsequently showed me documentary evidence
to prove that, if a remittance of, say, £100, or 12,025 Egyptian
piastres, is forwarded to Jerusalem (which is not a frequent
occurrence), the average amount to which each recipient becomes
entitled is about 4 piastres, or 8d sterling!

_Tuesday, April 3rd._--I appointed for the reception of a deputation
from Safed, representing sixty families, numbering three hundred
souls, all of whom most earnestly prayed to be afforded the means of
devoting themselves to agriculture.

"The documents which they brought with them were accompanied by
certificates from Mr J. Miklasiewicz, the Austrian Consul at Safed,
who testifies to the sincerity of the wish expressed by these three
hundred people; whereas in a publication of the Rev. Dr Macleod, to
which I shall have soon more particularly to refer, the gentleman,
who professed last year to be the Austrian Consul in the same city,
is reported to have accused its Jewish inhabitants of 'being idle,
lazy, and suspicious.' Of the other grave accusations contained in
the same periodical, I shall speak at length in the sequel, and
will now but point to the pregnant fact that the name of the Rev.
Dr Macleod's informer, who professed to be the Austrian Consul at
Safed, is stated by that rev. gentleman to be Mieroslowski, whereas
I have clearly ascertained that no one bearing that name has filled
the Consular Office in that city. In fact, one of two conclusions
seems inevitable: either an almost miraculous change has within the
period of one year come over the character of the Jews at Safed,
or the Rev. Dr Macleod has been deceived by the story of an artful
impostor; nor is it, perhaps, difficult to decide which of these
two conclusions is the more probable. I need scarcely say that the
certificate transmitted to me by the actual Austrian Consul at Safed
was a source of the highest gratification to me, and I am sure it
will be so to yourself and all our brethren, who may have read the
statement which Mieroslowski, or some one assumed to be holding the
office of Austrian Consul, is said to have made in reference to the
Jews at Safed.

"Applications for employment in agricultural pursuits were also about
this time handed to me from the people of Tiberias and the Bokea:
the latter suffered terribly during the last war or contest between
Joseph Kareen and Daoud Pasha; their cattle, the produce of their
fields, and all the property they had in their houses, and even their
wives, having been forcibly taken away from them. I assisted them
with a small amount, and promised to make their case known to my
friends.

"On Wednesday, April 4th, believing that I should be rendering a
service to the poor in the Holy Land by providing them with necessary
funds for emigration from Jerusalem and its neighbourhood, I
requested that the parties mentioned at the general meeting by some
of the representatives of the congregations should be brought before
me, and on this occasion I witnessed a scene which seems not unworthy
of narration. At the appointed hour a young widow was introduced to
me, apparently twenty or twenty-two years of age. Her husband had
died recently from the cholera, leaving her with three children,
the eldest five or six years, and the youngest three or four months
old. The history of her own life was simply as follows:--She herself
was left an orphan when of tender age, and was adopted as a foster
daughter by a person who at present officiates gratuitously as a
reader in a small synagogue. He happened to have another orphan in
the house, a boy, and when both grew to what is called in the East
a mature age, it seemed to him that a most suitable union might
be formed between those two orphans, and accordingly they were
married under the roof of this charitable man. After their marriage
they maintained themselves respectably, and lived happily together
until the husband fell under the fatal scourge of the cholera. The
foster-father then provided a home for the destitute widow and her
children. This consisted of one small room, which I had previously
visited, when I was delighted with its cleanliness, as well as
with the interesting appearance of the children. Having, among
other matters, conferred with my co-religionists on the subject of
facilities for emigration in fitting instances, I thought this a most
deserving case, and offered the widow my aid in providing for the
departure of herself and family from Jerusalem to join her relatives
or friends in Germany, who were believed to be in comfortable
circumstances. To my surprise, she declined to avail herself of
my assistance, though in the most grateful terms. As a faithful
representation of her feelings, and that of many other dwellers on
the sacred soil, I will here, as nearly as possible, transcribe her
words. She said: 'God has granted me the high privilege to breathe
the hallowed atmosphere of the land of our forefathers, Abraham,
Isaac, and Jacob. He has caused His grace and mercy to descend upon
me by bringing me, when an infant, unto this sacred spot, whence the
radiant glory of His divine law emanated. He has permitted me to
tread on that hallowed ground on which our prophets and our teachers
lived, and taught me the words of lasting truth. Am I now to leave
it, and take my children away from Zion, where we truly believe and
daily expect "Truth and Peace" again to rule? No; I would rather
starve together with my children, whilst kissing the dust in the Holy
City of Jerusalem, than live in plenty elsewhere.'

"Applications were made to me by various persons for the necessary
means to enable them to leave the Holy City; but, on making inquiry,
I found that in all these cases the applicants had merely temporary
objects in view, without any intention to remain away permanently,
and I, therefore, did not deem it my duty to do more than aid them
with a trifle, in order to relieve them from their immediate distress.

"Thursday, the 5th of April, was devoted to the examination of
documents having reference to several plots of ground in the suburbs
of Jerusalem, offered to me for purchase, either for building
purposes or for cultivation. I requested Dr Loewe and Mr Sebag,
to make a personal survey of these properties, and to ascertain
particulars as to their extent, value, and price, with which request
they kindly complied. I had also caused memoranda to be made as to
valuable houses, within the Holy City, offered for sale. The notes
having reference to these negotiations have been carefully preserved,
so as to be made available for future guidance.

"But soon I was to sustain a heavy affliction. After having left
Jaffa I constantly received telegrams about the state of Dr Hodgkin's
health; and when I was informed that the symptoms had become more
alarming, I begged my friend Captain Henry Moore to proceed to Jaffa
in the company of the physician of Jerusalem, Dr Chaplin. They at
once complied with my request, and remained at Jaffa with my lamented
friend until the period of his decease, the melancholy tidings of
which I received during the night of the 5th of April. Having already
referred to this sad event, I shall not again dwell thereon, except
to say, that it overwhelmed me with sorrow and cast a gloom over me
which I vainly sought to dispel.

"On Friday, the 6th of April, I attended the afternoon service in the
Sephardim Synagogue belonging to the Almshouses and conversed with
the inmates, eliciting from them much useful information.

"On Saturday, the 7th of April, in the course of the day, some
youths were introduced to me for the purpose of being examined
in the various subjects of their studies. When their father, who
accompanied them, was asked why he had not placed them to learn some
useful trade, he replied:--'Before we provide our children with the
means of attending to their temporal wants, we deem it our duty to
promote their spiritual welfare. They must first learn the Word of
God, to serve them as a guide and beacon of hope in all their worldly
vicissitudes.' He also brought others of his children who were
already engaged in learning trades.

"There are two Synagogues attached to the Touro Almshouses, one of
them for the Sephardim, which I had already visited, the other for
the Ashkenasim; to-day I visited the latter. On my way thither, a
young woman passed us with a large book in her hand, and, on my
inquiring what it was, she informed me it was a Hebrew Psalm Book,
with several Commentaries of ancient authors printed in Hebrew-German
characters. I requested her to read one of the Psalms with the
Commentary, this she did with great fluency and without hesitation.
I have often had occasion to admire the ability of many females in
our community of Jerusalem, not only in respect of their household
duties and in needlework of every description, but also in Hebrew
lore. I was on one occasion addressed by the mother of two or three
children who solicited aid, and, to my surprise, she spoke to Dr
Loewe and myself in the Hebrew language with elegance and facility.
Subsequently I ascertained that she was a Portuguese, the widow of
a German Rabbi, who had recently died and left her in straitened
circumstances.

"Intermarriages between Sephardim and Ashkenasim, are, I am happy to
say, no longer of rare occurrence in the Holy Land.

"In the evening, a short time after prayers, a large concourse of
persons proceeding from the Jaffa gate, with lights and music,
approached my residence, desiring to illuminate it; but in my then
state of mind, I was indisposed to any such joyous demonstration.
Mr Selig Hausdorf, who headed the procession, assured me that their
object was to show the grateful appreciation in which they held the
generous benefactors I represented.

"Although I could not consent to the intended illumination, I
willingly received my kind visitors. They recited to us psalms and
poetical compositions; and I afterwards obtained, in conversation
with them, much useful information relating to the wants and
condition of their community.