Chapter I: Preface

Since the publication of my first work on the discoveries at Nineveh much progress has been made in deciphering the cuneiform character, and the contents of many highly interesting and important inscriptions have been given to the public. For these additions to our knowledge we are mainly indebted to the sagacity and learning of two English scholars, Col. Rawlinson and the Rev. Dr. Hincks. In making use of the results of their researches, I have not omitted to own the sources from which my information has been derived. I trust, also, that I have in no instance availed myself of the labors of other writers, or of the help of friends, without due acknowledgments. I have endeavored to assign to every one his proper share in the discoveries recorded in these pages.

I am aware that several distinguished French scholars, amongst whom I may mention my friends, M. Botta and M. de Saulcy, have contributed to the successful deciphering of the Assyrian inscriptions. Unfortunately I have been unable to consult the published results of their investigations. If, therefore, I should have overlooked in any instance their claims to prior discovery, I have to express my regret for an error arising from ignorance, and not from any unworthy national prejudice.

Doubts appear to be still entertained by many eminent critics as to the progress actually made in deciphering the cuneiform writing. These doubts may have been confirmed by too hasty theories and conclusions, which, on subsequent investigation, their authors have been the first to withdraw. But the unbiased inquirer can scarcely now reject the evidence which can be brought forward to confirm the general accuracy of the interpretations of the inscriptions. Had they rested upon a single word, or an isolated paragraph, their soundness might reasonably have been questioned; when, however, several independent investigators have arrived at the same results, and have not only detected numerous names of persons, nations, and cities in historical and geographical series, but have found them mentioned in proper connection with events recorded by sacred and profane writers, scarcely any stronger evidence could be desired. The reader, I would fain hope, will come to this conclusion when I treat of the contents of the various records discovered in the Assyrian palaces.

To Mr. Thomas Ellis, who has added so much to the value of my work by his translations of inscriptions on Babylonian bowls, now for the first time, through his sagacity, deciphered; to those who have assisted me in my labors, and especially to my friend and companion, Mr. Hormuzd Rassam, to the Rev. Dr. Hincks, to the Rev. S. C. Malan, who has kindly allowed me the use of his masterly sketches, to Mr. Fergusson, Mr. Scharf, and to Mr. Hawkins, Mr. Birch, Mr. Vaux, and the other officers of the British Museum, I beg to express my grateful thanks and acknowledgments.

London, January, 1853.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

N. E. FAÇADE AND ENTRANCE TO SENNACHERIB'S PALACE,
RESTORED _Frontispiece._

THE MELEK TAOUS OR COPPER BIRD OF THE YEZIDIS 46

SUBTERRANEAN EXCAVATIONS AT KOUYUNJIK 61

MOUND OF NIMROUD 84

HEAD-DRESS OF CAPTIVES EMPLOYED BY ASSYRIANS IN
MOVING BULL (KOUYUNJIK) 92

VILLAGE WITH CONICAL ROOFS NEAR ALEPPO 97

BULLS WITH HISTORICAL INSCRIPTIONS OF SENNACHERIB
(KOUYUNJIK) 113

SENNACHERIB ON HIS THRONE BEFORE LACHISH 129

FEET OF TRIPODS IN BRONZE AND IRON 151

A CAPTIVE (OF THE TOKKARI?) KOUYUNJIK 193

LION DISCOVERED AT ARBAN 231

VOLCANIC CONE OF KOUKAB 268

ENTRANCE TO SMALL TEMPLE (NIMROUD) _Facing page_ 288

FISH-GOD AT ENTRANCE TO SMALL TEMPLE (NIMROUD) 289

KURDS OF WAN 320

FIGURES OF ASSYRIAN VENUS IN BAKED CLAY 383

THE MUJELIBÉ OR KASR (FROM RICH) 392

PLAN OF PART OF THE RUINS OF BABYLON ON THE EASTERN
BANK OF THE EUPHRATES 396

JUG OF SOAPSTONE, FROM THE MOUND OF BABEL 409

ASSYRIAN PEDESTAL, FROM KOUYUNJIK 477

PART OF COLOSSAL HEAD, FROM KOUYUNJIK 481

PLAN OF THE INCLOSURE WALLS AND DITCHES AT KOUYUNJIK 536

MAP OF ASSYRIA, ETC. } _at the end._
GENERAL MAP OF MESOPOTAMIA }

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

The Trustees of the British Museum resume Excavations at
Nineveh.--Departure from Constantinople.--Description of our
Party.--Roads from Trebizond to Erzeroom.--Description of the
Country.--Armenian Churches.--Erzeroom.--Reshid Pasha.--The
Dudjook Tribes.--Shahan Bey.--Turkish Reform.--Journey through
Armenia.--An Armenian Bishop.--The Lakes of Shailu and Nazik 15

CHAPTER II.

The Lake of Wan.--Akhlat.--Tatar Tombs.--Ancient Remains.--A
Dervish.--A Friend.--The Mudir.--Armenian Remains.--An Armenian
Convent and Bishop.--Journey to Bitlis.--Nimroud Dagh.--
Bitlis.--Journey to Kherzan.--Yezidi Village 30

CHAPTER III.

Reception by the Yezidis.--Village of Guzelder.--Triumphal
March to Redwan.--Redwan.--Armenian Church.--The Melek Taous,
or Brazen Bird.--Tilleh.--Valley of the Tigris.--Bas-reliefs.--
Journey to Dereboun.--To Semil.--Abde Agha.--Journey to
Mosul.--The Yezidi Chiefs.--Arrival at Mosul.--Xenophon's March
from the Zab to the Black Sea 42

CHAPTER IV.

State of the Excavations on my Return to Mosul.--Discoveries at
Kouyunjik.--Tunnels in the Mound.--Bas-reliefs representing
Assyrian Conquests.--A Well.--Siege of a City.--Nature of
Sculptures at Kouyunjik.--Arrangement for Renewal of
Excavations.--Description of Mound.--Kiamil Pasha.--Visit to
Sheikh Adi.--Yezidi Ceremonies.--Sheikh Jindi.--Yezidi
Meeting.--Dress of the Women.--Bavian.--Doctrines of the
Yezidi.--Jerraiyah.--Return to Mosul 61

CHAPTER V.

Renewal of Excavations at Kouyunjik.--First Visit to Nimroud.--
State of Ruins.--Renew Excavations in Mound.--Visit of Col.
Rawlinson.--Mr. H. Rassam.--The Jebour Workmen at Kouyunjik.--
Discoveries at Kouyunjik.--Sculptures representing moving of
great Stones and Winged Bulls.--Methods adopted.--Epigraphs on
Bas-reliefs of moving Bulls.--Sculptures representing Invasion
of Mountainous Country, and Sack of City.--Discovery of
Gateway.--Excavation in high conical Mound at Nimroud.--
Discovery of Wall of Stone.--Visit to Khorsabad.--Discovery of
Slab.--State of the Ruins.--Futhliyah.--Baazani.--Baasheikhah 84

CHAPTER VI.

Discovery of Grand Entrance to the Palace of Kouyunjik.--Of the
Name of Sennacherib in the Inscriptions.--The Records of that
King in the Inscriptions on the Bulls.--An Abridged Translation
of them.--Name of Hezekiah.--Account of Sennacherib's Wars with
the Jews.--Dr. Hincks and Col. Rawlinson.--The Names of Sargon
and Shalmaneser.--Discovery of Sculptures at Kouyunjik,
representing the Siege of Lachish.--Description of the
Sculptures.--Discovery of Clay Seals.--Of Signets of Egyptian
and Assyrian Kings.--Cartouche of Sabaco.--Name of
Essarhaddon.--Confirmation of Historical Records of the
Bible.--Royal Cylinder of Sennacherib 113

CHAPTER VII.

Road open for removal of Winged Lions.--Discovery of Vaulted
Drain.--Of other Arches.--Of Painted Bricks.--Attack of the Tai
on the Village of Nimroud.--Visit to the Howar.--Description of
the Encampment of the Tai.--The Plain of Shomamok.--Sheikh
Faras.--Wali Bey.--Return to Nimroud 137

CHAPTER VIII.

Contents of newly-discovered Chamber.--A Well.--Large Copper
Caldrons.--Bells, Rings, and other Objects in Metal.--
Tripods.--Caldrons and large Vessels.--Bronze Bowls, Cups, and
Dishes.--Description of the Embossings upon them.--Arms and
Armour.--Shields.--Iron Instruments.--Ivory Remains.--Bronze
Cubes inlaid with Gold.--Glass Bowls.--Lens.--The Royal Throne 150

CHAPTER IX.

Visit to the Winged Lions by Night.--The Bitumen Springs.--
Removal of the Winged Lions to the River.--Floods at Nimroud.--
Yezidi Marriage Festival.--Baazani.--Visit to Bavian.--Site of
the Battle of Arbela.--Description of Rock-Sculptures.--
Inscriptions.--The Shabbaks 167

CHAPTER X.

Visit to Kalah Sherghat prevented.--Visit to Shomamok.--
Keshaf.--The Howar.--A Bedouin.--His Mission.--Descent of Arab
Horses.--Their Pedigree.--Ruins of Mokhamour.--The Mound of the
Kasr.--Plain of Shomamok.--The Gla or Kalah.--Xenophon and the
Ten Thousand.--A Wolf.--Return to Nimroud and Mosul.--
Discoveries at Kouyunjik.--Description of the Bas-reliefs 182

CHAPTER XI.

Preparations for a Journey to the Khabour.--Sculptures
discovered there.--Sheikh Suttum.--His Rediff.--Departure from
Mosul.--First Encampment.--Abou Khameera.--A Storm.--Tel
Ermah.--A Stranger.--Tel Jemal.--The Chief of Tel Afer.--A
Sunset in the Desert.--A Jebour Encampment.--The Belled
Sinjar.--The Sinjar Hill.--Mirkan.--Bukra.--The dress of the
Yezidis.--The Shomal.--Ossofa.--Aldina.--Return to the
Belled.--A Snake-Charmer.--Journey continued in the Desert.--
Rishwan.--Encampment of the Boraij.--Dress of Arab Women.--
Rathaiyah.--A Deputation from the Yezidis.--Arab Encampments.--
The Khabour.--Mohammed Emin.--Arrival at Arban 195

CHAPTER XII.

Arban.--Our Encampment.--Suttum and Mohammed Emin.--Winged
Bulls discovered.--Excavations commenced.--Their Results.--
Discovery of Small Objects--of Second Pair of Winged Bulls.--of
Lion--of Chinese Bottle--of Vase--of Egyptian Scarabs--of
Tombs.--The Scene of the Captivity 225

CHAPTER XIII.

Residence at Arban.--Mohammed Emin's Tent.--The Agaydat.--our
Tents.--Bread-baking.--Food of the Bedouins.--Thin Bread.--The
Produce of their Flocks.--Diseases amongst them.--Their
Remedies.--The Deloul or Dromedary.--Bedouin Warfare.--Suttum's
First Wife.--A Storm.--Turtles.--Lions.--A Bedouin Robber.--
Beavers.--Ride to Ledjmiyat--A Plundering Expedition.--Loss of
a Hawk.--Ruins of Shemshani.--Return to Arban.--Visit to
Moghamis 237

CHAPTER XIV.

Leave Arban.--The Banks of the Khabour.--Artificial Mounds.--
Mijwell.--The Cadi of the Bedouins.--The _Thar_ or
Blood-Revenge.--Caution of Arabs.--A natural Cavern.--An
extinct volcano.--The Confluents of the Khabour.--Bedouin
Marks.--Suleiman Agha.--Encampment at Um-Jerjeh.--The Turkish
Irregular Cavalry.--Mound of Mijdel.--Ruins on the Khabour.--
Mohammed Emin leaves us.--Visit to Kurdish Tents and Harem.--
The Milli Kurds.--The Family of Rishwan.--Arab Love-making.--
The Dakheel.--Bedouin Poets and Poetry.--Turkish Cavalry Horses 252

CHAPTER XV.

Departure from the Khabour.--Arab Sagacity.--The Hol.--The Lake
of Khatouniyah.--Return of Suttum.--Encampment of the
Shammar.--Arab Horses--their Breeds--their Value--their
Speed.--Sheikh Ferhan.--Yezidi Villages.--Falcons.--An Alarm.--
Abou Maria.--Eski Mosul.--Arrival at Mosul.--Return of Suttum
to the Desert 268

CHAPTER XVI.

Discoveries at Kouyunjik.--Procession of Figures bearing Fruit
and Game.--Locusts.--Led Horses.--An Assyrian Campaign.--Dagon,
or the Fish-God.--The Chambers of Records.--Inscribed Clay
Tablets.--Return to Nimroud.--Effects of the Flood.--
Discoveries.--Small Temple under high Mound.--The Evil
Spirit.--Fish-God.--Fine Bas-relief of the King.--Extracts from
the Inscription.--Great inscribed Monolith.--Extracts from the
Inscription.--Cedar Beams.--Small Objects.--Second Temple.--
Marble Figure and other Objects 280

CHAPTER XVII.

The Summer.--Encampment at Kouyunjik.--Visitors.--Mode of
Life.--Departure for the Mountains.--Akra.--Rock-Tablets at
Gunduk.--District of Zibari.--Namet Agha.--District of
Shirwan--of Baradost--of Gherdi--of Shemdina.--Mousa Bey.--
Nestorian Bishop.--Convent of Mar Hananisho.--Dizza.--An
Albanian Friend.--Bash-Kalah.--Izzet Pasha.--A Jewish
Encampment.--High Mountain Pass.--Mahmoudiyah.--First View of
Wan 300

CHAPTER XVIII.

Mehemet Pasha.--Description of Wan.--Its History.--Improvement
in its Condition.--The Armenian Bishop.--The Cuneiform
Inscriptions.--The Caves of Khorkhor.--The Meher Kapousi.--A
Tradition.--Observations on the Inscriptions.--The Bairam.--An
American School.--The American Missions.--Protestant Movement
in Turkey.--Amikh.--The Convent of Yedi Klissia 320

CHAPTER XIX.

Leave Wan.--The Armenian Patriarch.--The Island of Akhtamar.--
An Armenian Church.--History of the Convent.--Pass into
Mukus.--The District of Mukus--of Shattak--of Nourdooz.--A
Nestorian Village.--Encampments.--Mount Ararat.--Mar Shamoun.--
Julamerik.--Valley of Diz.--Pass into Jelu.--Nestorian District
of Jelu.--An ancient Church.--The Bishop.--District of Baz--of
Tkhoma.--Return to Mosul 337

CHAPTER XX.

Discoveries at Kouyunjik during the Summer.--Description of the
Sculptures.--Capture of Cities on a great River.--Pomp of
Assyrian King.--Alabaster Pavement.--Conquest of Tribes
inhabiting a Marsh.--Their Wealth.--Chambers with Sculptures
belonging to a new King.--Description of the Sculptures.--
Conquest of the People of Susiana.--Portrait of the King.--His
guards and Attendants.--The City of Shushan.--Captive Prince.--
Musicians.--Captives put to the Torture.--Artistic Character of
the Sculptures.--An Inclined Passage.--Two small Chambers.--
Colossal Figures.--More Sculptures 356

CHAPTER XXI.

Preparations for leaving Nineveh.--Departure for Babylon.--
Descent of the River.--Tekrit.--The State of the Rivers of
Mesopotamia.--Commerce upon them.--Turkish Roads.--The Plain of
Dura.--The Naharwan.--Samarrah.--Kadesia.--Palm Groves.--
Kathimain.--Approach to Baghdad.--The City.--Arrival.--Dr.
Ross.--A British Steamer.--Modern Baghdad.--Tel Mohammed.--
Departure for Babylon.--A Persian Prince.--Abde Pasha's
Camp.--Eastern Falconry.--Hawking the Gazelle.--Approach to
Babylon.--The Ruins.--Arrival at Hillah 372

CHAPTER XXII.

The Chiefs of Hillah.--Present of Lions.--The Son of the
Governor.--Description of the Town.--Zaid.--The Ruins of
Babylon.--Changes in the Course of the Euphrates.--The Walls.--
Visit to the Birs Nimroud.--Description of the Ruin.--View from
it.--Excavations and Discoveries in the Mound of Babel.--In the
Mujelibé or Kasr.--The Tree Athelé.--Excavations in the Ruin of
Amran.--Bowls, with Inscriptions in Hebrew and Syriac
Characters.--The Jews of Babylonia 392

CHAPTER XXIII.

State of the Ruins of Babylon.--Cause of the Disappearance of
Buildings.--Nature of original Edifices.--Babylonian Bricks.--
The History of Babylon.--Its Fall.--Its Remarkable Position.--
Commerce.--Canals and Roads.--Skill of Babylonians in the
Arts.--Engraved Gems.--Corruption of Manners, and consequent
Fall of the City.--The Mecca Pilgrimage.--Sheikh Ibn Reshid.--
The Gebel Shammar.--The Mounds of El Hymer--of Anana 419

CHAPTER XXIV.

Ruins in Southern Mesopotamia.--Departure from Hillah.--
Sand-Hills.--Villages in the Jezireh.--Sheikh Karboul.--
Ruins.--First View of Niffer.--The Marshes.--Arab Boats.--
Arrive at Souk-el-Afaij.--Sheikh Agab.--Town of the Afaij.--
Description of the Ruins of Niffer.--Excavations in the
Mounds.--Discovery of Coffins--of various Relics.--Mr. Loftus'
Discoveries at Wurka.--The Arab Tribes.--Wild Beasts.--Lions.--
Customs of the Afaij.--Leave the Marshes.--Return to Baghdad.--
A Mirage 437

CHAPTER XXV.

Preparations for Departure.--Sahiman.--Plunder of his Camels.--
Leave Baghdad.--Journey through Mesopotamia.--Early Arab
Remains.--The Median Wall.--Tekrit.--Horses stolen.--Instances
of Bedouin Honesty.--Excavations at Kalah Sherghat.--Reach
Mosul.--Discoveries during Absence.--New Chambers at
Kouyunjik.--Description of Bas-reliefs.--Extent of the Ruins
explored.--Bases of Pillars.--Small objects.--Roman Coins
struck at Nineveh.--Hoard of Denarii.--Greek Relics.--Absence
of Assyrian Tombs.--Fragment with Egyptian Characters.--
Assyrian Relics.--Remains beneath the Tomb of Jonah.--
Discoveries at Shereef-Khan--at Nimroud.--Assyrian Weights.--
Engraved Cylinders 463

CHAPTER XXVI.

Results of the Discoveries to Chronology and History.--Names of
Assyrian Kings in the Inscriptions.--A Date fixed.--The Name of
Jehu.--The Obelisk King.--The earlier Kings--Sardanapalus.--His
Successors.--Pul, or Tiglath Pileser.--Sargon.--Sennacherib.--
Essarhaddon.--The last Assyrian Kings.--Tables of proper Names
in the Assyrian Inscriptions.--Antiquity of Nineveh.--Of the
Name of Assyria.--Illustrations of Scripture.--State of Judæa
and Assyria compared.--Political Condition of the Empire.--
Assyrian Colonies.--Prosperity of the Country.--Religion.--
Extent of Nineveh.--Assyrian Architecture--Compared with
Jewish.--Palace of Kouyunjik restored.--Platform at Nimroud
restored.--The Assyrian fortified Inclosures.--Description of
Kouyunjik.--Conclusion 491

NINEVEH AND BABYLON.