Chapter I: Introduction

No land possesses greater attractions for the American tourist than England. It was the home of his forefathers; its history is to a great extent the history of his own country; and he is bound to it by the powerful ties of consanguinity, language, laws, and customs. When the American treads the busy London streets, threads the intricacies of the Liverpool docks and shipping, wanders along the green lanes of Devonshire, climbs Alnwick's castellated walls, or floats upon the placid bosom of the picturesque Wye, he seems almost as much at home as in his native land. But, apart from these considerations of common Anglo-Saxon paternity, no country in the world is more interesting to the intelligent traveller than England. The British system of entail, whatever may be our opinion of its political and economic merits, has built up vast estates and preserved the stately homes, renowned castles, and ivy-clad ruins of ancient and celebrated structures, to an extent and variety that no other land can show. The remains of the abbeys, castles, churches, and ancient fortresses in England and Wales that war and time together have crumbled and scarred tell the history of centuries, while countless legends of the olden time are revived as the tourist passes them in review. England, too, has other charms than these. British scenery, though not always equal in sublimity and grandeur to that displayed in many parts of our own country, is exceedingly beautiful, and has always been a fruitful theme of song and story.

"The splendor falls on castle-walls
And snowy summits old in story:
The long light shakes across the lakes.
And the wild cataract leaps in glory."

Yet there are few satisfactory and comprehensive books about this land that is so full of renowned memorials of the past and so generously gifted by Nature. Such books as there are either cover a few counties or are devoted only to local description, or else are merely guide-books. The present work is believed to be the first attempt to give in attractive form a book which will serve not only as a guide to those about visiting England and Wales, but also as an agreeable reminiscence to others, who will find that its pages treat of familiar scenes. It would be impossible to describe everything within the brief compass of a single book, but it is believed that nearly all the more prominent places in England and Wales are included, with enough of their history and legend to make the description interesting. The artist's pencil has also been called into requisition, and the four hundred and eighty-seven illustrations will give an idea, such as no words can convey, of the attractions England presents to the tourist.

The work has been arranged in eight tours, with Liverpool and London as the two starting-points, and each route following the lines upon which the sightseer generally advances in the respective directions taken. Such is probably the most convenient form for the travelling reader, as the author has found from experience, while a comprehensive index will make reference easy to different localities and persons. Without further introduction it is presented to the public, in the confident belief that the interest developed in its subject will excuse any shortcomings that may be found in its pages.

PHILADELPHIA, July, 1882.

CONTENTS.

I.

_LIVERPOOL, WESTWARD TO THE WELSH COAST._
PAGE

Liverpool--Birkenhead--Knowsley Hall--Chester--Cheshire--Eaton
Hall--Hawarden Castle--Bidston--Congleton--Beeston Castle--The river
Dee--Llangollen--Valle-Crucis Abbey--Dinas Bran--Wynnstay--Pont
Cysylltau--Chirk Castle--Bangor-ys-Coed--Holt--Wrexham--The Sands o'
Dee--North Wales--Flint Castle--Rhuddlan Castle--Mold--Denbigh--St.
Asaph--Holywell--Powys Castle--The Menai Strait--Anglesea--Beaumaris
Castle--Bangor--Penrhyn Castle--Plas Newydd--Caernarvon
Castle--Ancient Segontium--Conway Castle--Bettws-y-Coed--Mount
Snowdon--Port Madoc--Coast of Merioneth--Barmouth--St. Patrick's
Causeway--Mawddach Vale--Cader Idris--Dolgelly--Bala
Lake--Aberystwith--Harlech Castle--Holyhead 17

II.

_LIVERPOOL, NORTHWARD TO THE SCOTTISH BORDER._

Lancashire--Warrington--Manchester--Furness Abbey--The
Ribble--Stonyhurst--Lancaster Castle--Isle of
Man--Castletown--Rusben Castle--Peele Castle--The Lake
Country--Windermere--Lodore Fall--Derwentwater--Keswick--Greta
Hall--Southey, Wordsworth, and Coleridge--Skiddaw---The Border
Castles--Kendal Castle--Brougham Hall--The Solway--Carlisle
Castle--Scaleby Castle--Naworth--Lord William Howard. 51