Chapter VIII: London, to the South Coast

The Surrey Side--The Chalk Downs--Guildford--The Hog's Back--Albury
Down--Archbishop Abbot--St. Catharine's Chapel--St. Martha's
Chapel--Albury Park--John Evelyn--Henry Drummond--Aldershot
Camp--Leith Hill--Redland's Wood--Holmwood Park--Dorking--Weller and
the Marquis of Granby Inn--Deepdene--Betchworth Castle--The River
Mole--Boxhill--The Fox and Hounds--The Denbies--Ranmore
Common--Battle of Dorking--Wotton
Church--Epsom--Reigate--Pierrepoint House--Longfield--The Weald of
Kent--Goudhurst--Bedgebury Park--Kilndown--Cranbrook--Bloody Baker's
Prison--Sissinghurst--Bayham Abbey--Tunbridge Castle--Tunbridge
Wells--Penshurst--Sir Philip Sidney--Hever Castle--Anne
Boleyn--Knole--Leeds Castle--Tenterden Steeple and the Goodwin
Sands--Rochester--Gad's Hill--Chatham--Canterbury Cathedral--St.
Thomas à Becket--Falstaff Inn--Isle of
Thanet--Ramsgate--Margate--North Foreland--The Cinque
Ports--Sandwich--Rutupiæ--Ebbsfleet--Goodwin Sands--Walmer
Castle--South Foreland--Dover--Shakespeare's
Cliff--Folkestone--Hythe--Romney--Dungeness--Rye--Winchelsea--Hastings
--Pevensey--Hailsham--Hurstmonceux Castle--Beachy Head--Brighton--The
Aquarium--The South Downs--Dichling Beacon--Newhaven--Steyning--Wiston
Manor--Chanctonbury Ring--Arundel Castle--Chichester--Selsey
Bill--Goodwood--Bignor--Midhurst--Cowdray--Dunford
House--Selborne--Gilbert White; his book; his house, sun-dial, and
church--Greatham Church--Winchester--The New
Forest--Lyndhurst--Minstead Manor--Castle Malwood--Death of William
Rufus--Rufus's Stone--Beaulieu
Abbey--Brockenhurst--Ringwood--Lydington--Christchurch--Southampton
--Netley Abbey--Calshot Castle--The Solent--Portsea
Island--Portsmouth--Gosport--Spithead--The Isle of Wight--High
Down--Alum Bay--Yarmouth--Cowes--Osborne
House--Ryde--Bratling--Sandown--Shanklin Chine--Bonchurch--The
Undercliff--Ventnor--Niton--St. Lawrence Church--St. Catharine's
Down--Blackgang Chine--Carisbrooke
Castle--Newport--Freshwater--Brixton--The Needles 463

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Alton Towers _Frontispiece._
The Old Mill, Selborne _Title-Page._
Market-place, Peterborough _After Contents._
The Pottergate, Alnwick 16
Perch Rock Light 17
St. George's Hall, Liverpool 19
Chester Cathedral, Exterior 21
Chester Cathedral, Interior 21
Julius Cæsar's Tower, Chester 22
Ancient Front, Chester 22
God's Providence House, Chester 23
Bishop Lloyd's Palace, Chester 23
Old Lamb Row, Chester 23
Stanley House, Front, Chester 24
Stanley House, Rear, Chester 24
Phoenix Tower, Chester 25
Water Tower, Chester 25
Abbey Gale, Chester 26
Ruins of St. John's Chapel, Chester 26
Plas Newydd, Llangollen 28
Ruins of Valle-Crucis Abbey 29
Wynnstay 30
Pont Cysylltau 30
Wrexham Tower 31
The Roodee, from the Railway-bridge, Chester 32
The "Sands o' Dee" 33
Menai Strait 36
Beaumaris Castle 37
Bangor Cathedral 37
Caernarvon Castle 39
Conway Castle, from the Road to Llanrwst 40
Falls of the Conway 41
Swallow Falls 42
Llanrwst Bridge 43
Barmouth 44
Barmouth Estuary 45
Cader Idris, on the Taly-slyn Ascent 46
Rhayadr-y-Mawddach 46
Dolgelly 47
Owen Glendower's Parliament House, Dolgelly 47
Lower Bridge, Torrent Walk, Dolgelly 48
Bala Lake 48
Aberystwith 49
Harlech Castle 50
Old Market, Warrington 51
Manchester Cathedral, from the South-east 53
Assize Courts, Manchester 54
Royal Exchange, Manchester 55
Furness Abbey 56
Castle Square, Lancaster 58
Bradda Head, Isle of Man 59
Kirk Bradden, Isle of Man 59
Rhenass Waterfall, Isle of Man 60
Castle Rushen, Isle of Man 61
Peele Castle, Isle of Man 63
Glimpse of Derwentwater, from Scafell 64
Falls of Lodore, Derwentwater 65
Road through the Cathedral Close, Carlisle 68
View on the Torrent Walk, Dolgelly 69
Peveril Castle, Castleton 71
Hardwicke Hall 72
Hardwicke Hall, Elizabethan Staircase 73
Bolsover Castle 74
The Crescent, Buxton 75
Bakewell Church 76
Haddon Hall, from the Wye 77
Haddon Hall, Entrance to Banquet-hall 78
Haddon Hall, the Terrace 79
The Peacock Inn from the Road 81
Chatsworth House, from the South-west 81
Chatsworth House, Door to State Drawing-room 82
Chatsworth House, State Drawing-room 82
Chatsworth House, State Bedroom 83
Chatsworth House, the Sculpture-gallery 84
Chatsworth House, Gateway to Stable 85
High Tor, Matlock 85
The Straits, Dovedale 86
Banks of the Dove 86
Tissington Spires, Dovedale 87
Trentham Hall 89
Trentham Hall--on the Terrace 90
Shrewsbury Castle, from the Railway-station 93
Head-quarters of Henry VII. on his Way to Bosworth
Field, Shrewsbury 94
On Battlefield Road, Shrewsbury 94
Bridgenorth, from near Oldbury 95
Bridgenorth, Keep of the Castle 95
Bridgenorth, House where Bishop Percy was born 96
Lodge of Much Wenlock Abbey 96
Wenlock 97
Ludlow Castle 98
Ludlow Castle, Entrance to the Council-chamber 99
The Feathers Hotel, Ludlow 100
Lichfield Cathedral, West Front 101
Lichfield Cathedral, Interior, looking West 101
Lichfield Cathedral, Rear View 102
Dr. Johnson's Birthplace, Lichfield 103
Coventry Gateway 105
Coventry 106
Ruins of Bradgate House 108
Ruins of Ulverscroft Priory 109
Ruins of Grace Dieu Abbey 110
Leicester Abbey 111
Gateway, Newgate Street, Leicester 112
Edgehill 113
Edgehill, Mill at 115
Church and Market-hall, Market Harborough 117
Shakespeare's House, Stratford 118
Anne Hathaway's Cottage, Shottery 119
Warwick Castle 120
Leicester's Hospital, Warwick 122
Oblique Gables in Warwick 122
Kenilworth Castle 123
St. Martin's Church, Birmingham 124
Aston Hall, Birmingham 125
Aston Hall, the "Gallery of the Presence" 126
The Town-hall, Birmingham 127
Elstow, Bedford 130
Elstow Church 130
Elstow Church, North Door 131
Woburn Abbey, West Front 132
Woburn Abbey, the Sculpture-gallery 133
Woburn Abbey, Entrance to the Puzzle garden 134
Thames Head 138
Dovecote, Stanton Harcourt 140
Cumnor Churchyard 141
Godstow Nunnery 142
Magdalen College, Oxford, from the Cherwell 143
Magdalen College, Stone Pulpit 144
Magdalen College, Bow Window 144
Gable at St. Aldate's College, Oxford 144
Dormer Window, Merton College, Oxford 144
Gateway of Christ Church College, Oxford 145
Merton College Chapel, Oxford 146
Merton College Gateway 146
Oriel College, Oxford 147
Magdalen College Cloisters, Oxford 148
Magdalen College, Founders' Tower 149
Magdalen College 150
New College, Oxford, from the Garden 151
New College 152
The Radcliffe Library, from the Quadrangle of Brasenose, Oxford 152
Dining-hall, Exeter College, Oxford 153
Trinity College Chapel, Oxford 153
Window in St. John's College, Garden Front, Oxford 154
Tower St. John's College, Oxford 154
St. Mary the Virgin, from High Street, Oxford 155
All Saints, from High Street, Oxford 156
Carfax Conduit 157
Iffley Mill 157
Iffley Church 158
Cromwell's Parliament-house, Banbury 159
Berks and Wilts Canal 160
Chaucer's House, Woodstock 161
Old Remains at Woodstock 162
Blenheim Palace, from the Lake 163
Bicester Priory 165
Bicester Market 166
Cross at Eynsham 166
Entrance to Abingdon Abbey 167
Radley Church 168
The Thames at Clifton-Hampden 170
Bray Church 171
Eton College, from the Playing Fields 173
Eton College, from the Cricket-ground 173
Windsor Castle, from the Brocas 174
Windsor Castle Round Tower, West End 175
Windsor Castle, Queen's Rooms in South-east Tower 176
Windsor Castle, Interior of St. George's Chapel 177
Magna Charta Island 178
The Monument, London 180
St. Paul's Cathedral, London 182
St. Paul's Cathedral, South Side 183
St. Paul's Cathedral, the Choir 183
St. Paul's Cathedral, Wellington Monument 184
Westminster Abbey, London 185
Westminster Abbey, Cloisters of 186
Westminster Abbey, Interior of Choir 187
Westminster Abbey, King Henry VII.'s Chapel 188
The Tower of London, Views in 191
The Church of St. Peter, on Tower Green 193
The Lollards' Tower, Lambeth Palace, London 194
St. Mary-le-Bow, London 195
St. Bride's, Fleet Street, London. 195
Chapel Royal, Whitehall, London 196
Chapel Royal, Interior of (Banqueting-hall) 197
The Horse Guards, from the Parade-ground, London 198
Gateway of St. James Palace, London 199
Buckingham Palace, Garden Front, London 200
Kensington Palace, West Front, London 201
Victoria Tower, Houses of Parliament, London 203
Interior of the House of Commons 204
The Marble Arch, Hyde Park, London 205
The Albert Memorial, Hyde Park 206
Principal Entrance New Museum of Natural History,
South Kensington, London 207
Royal Exchange, London 208
Bank of England, London 208
Mansion House, London 209
The Law Courts, London 210
Sir Paul Finder's House, London 211
Waterloo Bridge, London 212
Schomberg House, London 213
Statue of Sidney Herbert, Pall Mall, London 213
Doorway, Beaconsfield Club, London 214
Cavendish Square, London 214
The "Bell Inn" at Edmonton 215
The "Old Tabard Inn," London. 216
Holland House, South Side 217
Holland House, Dining-Room 218
Holland House, the Dutch Garden 218
Holland House, the Library 219
Holland House, Rogers's Seat in the Dutch Garden 219
Greenwich Hospital, from the River 221
London, from Greenwich Park 222
St. Albans, from Verulam 225
Old Wall at Verulam 226
Monastery Gate, St. Albans 226
The Tower of the Abbey, St. Albans 227
Staircase to Watching Gallery, St. Albans 227
Shrine and Watching Gallery, St. Albans 228
Clock Tower, St. Albans 229
Barnard's Heath 229
St. Michael's, Verulam 230
Queen Elizabeth's Oak, Hatfield 231
Hatfield House 232
Hatfield House, the Corridor 233
View through Old Gateway, Hatfield 234
Audley End, Western Front 235
Views in Saffron Walden 237
Town-hall.
Church.
Entrance to the Town.
Jetties at Harwich 238
Bridge, St. John's College, Cambridge 239
Hall of Trinity College, Cambridge 241
St. John's Chapel, Cambridge 242
Back of Clare College, Cambridge 244
King's College Chapel--Interior--Cambridge 245
King's College Chapel, Doorway of 246
Scenes in Cambridge 247
The Senate House.
The Pitt Press.
Great St. Mary's.
The Fitzwilliam Museum.
The Round Church.
Gateway, Jesus College, Cambridge 249
Hengrave Hall 250
Road leading to Ely Close 250
Ely Cathedral, from the Railway Bridge 251
Old Bits in Ely 252
Old Passage from Ely Street to Cathedral Ford.
Entrance to Prior Crawdon's Chapel.
Old Houses In High Street.
Peterborough Cathedral 253
Peterborough Cathedral, Aisle and Choir 254
East End of Crowland Abbey 255
Norwich Castle 257
Norwich Cathedral 258
Norwich Cathedral--the Choir, looking East 259
Norwich Market-place 260
Burghley House 261
Lincoln Cathedral, from the South-west 264
"Bits" from Lincoln 265
The Cloisters.
The Angel Choir.
The High Bridge.
Nottingham Castle 267
Southwell Minster and Ruins of the Archbishop's Palace 268
Southwell Minster, the Nave 269
Clumber Hall 271
Welbeck Abbey 272
Newark Castle, Front 274
Newark Castle and Dungeon 275
Newark Market-square 276
Newark Church, looking from the North 276
The Humber at Hull 277
House where Wilberforce was born, Hull 278
Beverley, Entrance-Gate 278
Beverley, Market-square 279
Manor House, Sheffield 280
Entrance to the Cutlers' Hall, Sheffield 281
Edward IV.'s Chapel, Wakefield Bridge 282
Wakefield 283
Briggate, Leeds, looking North 283
St. John's Church, Leeds 284
Bolton Abbey, Gateway in the Priory 286
Bolton Abbey, the Churchyard 286
The Strid 287
Ripon Minster 288
Studley Royal Park 289
Fountains Abbey, the Transept 290
Fountains Abbey, Tower and Crypt 291
Fountains Hall 292
Richmond Castle 293
The Multangular Tower and Ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, York 294
Micklegate Bar and the Red Tower, York 297
York Minster 298
York Minster, the Choir 299
York Minster, Tomb of Archbishop DeGrey 300
Clifford's Tower, York 301
The Shambles, York 302
Castle Howard, South Front 303
Castle Howard, the Obelisk 304
Castle Howard, the Temple, with the Mausoleum in the distance 305
Gateway, Kirkham Priory 306
Scarborough Spa and Esplanade 308
Scarborough, from the Sea 309
Whitby Abbey 311
Durham, General View of the Cathedral and Castle 312
Durham Castle, Norman Doorway 313
Durham Cathedral, from an old Homestead on the Wear 315
Durham Cathedral, the Nave 316
Durham Cathedral, the Choir, looking West 317
Durham Cathedral, the Galilee and Tomb of Bede 318
Lumley Castle 320
Lumley Castle, Gateway from the Walk 321
Hexham 322
Alnwick Castle, from the Lion bridge 323
Alnwick Castle, the Barbican Gate 323
Alnwick Castle, the Barbican 324
Alnwick Castle, the Barbican, Eastern Angle 325
Alnwick Castle, the Percy Bedstead 326
Alnwick Castle, the Percy Cross 326
Alnwick Castle, Constable's Tower 327
Alnwick Castle, Earl Hugh's Tower 328
Alnwick Castle, Draw-Well and Norman Gateway 329
Alnwick Castle, Gravestone in the Churchyard of St.
Michael's and All Angels 329
Alnwick Castle, Font Lectern, St. Michael's Church 330
Hulne Priory, Porter's Lodge 331
Ford Tower, overlooking Flodden 331
The Cheviots, from Ford Castle 332
Flodden, from the King's Bedchamber, Ford Castle 333
Ford Castle, the Crypt 335
Grace Darling's Monument, Bamborough 336
Gloucester Cathedral, from the South-east 338
Gloucester, the New Inn 340
Gloucester Cathedral, the Monks' Lavatory 342
Tewkesbury 343
Tewkesbury Abbey 344
Tewkesbury Abbey, Choir 345
Worcester Cathedral, from the Severn 346
Worcester Cathedral, Choir 348
Ruins of the Guesten Hall, Worcester 349
Close in Worcester 350
St. Anne's Well, Malvern 352
Butchers' Row, Hereford 353
Out-house where Nell Gwynne was born, Hereford 353
Hereford Cathedral 354
Hereford Cathedral, Old Nave 355
Ross Bridge 355
Ross, House of the "Man of Ross" 356
Ross Market-place 357
Ross Church 358
Ross Church, the Tree, in 358
Ruins of Goodrich Castle 359
Bend in the Wye 360
Symond's Yat, the Wye 361
Monmouth Bridge 363
Monmouth Bridge, Gate on 363
Raglan Castle 364
Tintern Abbey, from the Highroad 365
Chepstow Castle 368
Pontrilas Court 370
The Scyrrid Vawr 371
Llanthony Priory, looking down the Nave 373
Llanthony Priory, the South Transept 374
Swansea, North Dock 377
Swansea Castle 378
The Mumbles 379
Oystermouth Castle 380
Neath Abbey, ruins 381
Bearwood, Berkshire, Residence of John Walter,
Esq., proprietor of _London Times_ 385
Salisbury Cathedral 387
Salisbury Market 388
Stonehenge 390
Wilton House 392
Wilton House, Fireplace in Double Cube Room 393
Wilton House, the Library 393
Wilton House, the Library Window 394
Bristol Cathedral 398
Norman Doorway, College Green, Bristol 399
Clifton Suspension Bridge, Bristol 400
Wells Cathedral, from the Bishop's Garden 401
Wells Cathedral, from the Swan Pool 402
Wells Cathedral, View under Central Tower 403
Wells, Ruins of the Old Banquet-Hall 404
Entrance to the Cheddar Cliffs, Wells 405
High Rocks at Cheddar, Wells 406
Glastonbury Tribunal 408
Sedgemoor, from Cock Hill 409
Weston Zoyland Church 410
The Isle of Athelney 412
Sherbourne 413
Corfe Castle 416
Studland Church 418
Ruins of Old Cross in the Churchyard 418
St. Aldhelm's Head 419
Portland Isle 420
Corbière Lighthouse, Jersey 422
View from Devil's Hole, Jersey 423
Exeter Cathedral, West Front 425
Exeter, Ruins of Rougemont Castle 426
Exeter, Old Houses in Cathedral Close 426
Exeter Cathedral, from the North-west 427
Exeter Cathedral, Bishop's Throne 428
Exeter Cathedral, Minstrel Gallery 429
Exeter, Guildhall 429
Babbicombe Bay 430
Austis Cove 431
Totnes, from the river 432
Berry Pomeroy Castle 433
A Bend of the Dart 434
Dartmouth Castle 434
The Dewerstone 435
Vale of Bickleigh 436
Plympton Priory, Old Doorway 437
Minehead 440
Dunster 441
On Porlock Moor 442
Doone Valley 443
Bagworthy Water 444
Jan Ridd's Tree 444
View on the East Lyn 445
Castle Rock, Lynton 445
Devil's Cheese-Ring, Lynton 446
Tower on Beach, Lynmouth 447
Ilfracombe 447
Morte Point 449
Bideford Bridge 450
Clovelly, Main Street 450
Clovelly, Old Houses on Beach 451
Fowey Pier 452
Pendennis Castle 454
Mullyon Cove 455
Lion Rock, with Mullyon in the distance 456
Cave at Mullyon 456
Pradenack Point 457
Kynance Cove 457
The Post-Office, Kynance 458
Polpeor 459
Rocks near the Lizard 459
St. Michael's Mount 460
Old Market, Penzance 461
Land's End 462
High Street, Guildford 464
Ruins of St. Catharine's Chapel 466
Leith Hill 467
Old Dovecote, Holmwood Park 468
White Horse Inn, Dorking 469
Pierrepoint House 472
Longfield, East Sheen 473
Ruins of Sissinghurst 475
Tunbridge Castle 476
Penshurst Place 476
Penshurst Church 477
Hever Castle 478
Leeds Castle, Gateway 478
Rochester Castle 480
Canterbury 481
Canterbury, Falstaff Inn 483
Sandwich, the Barbican 485
Dover Castle, the Pharos 487
Dover Cattle, Saluting-Battery Gate 487
Rye, Old Houses 488
Hurstmonceux Castle 490
Arundel Castle 494
Ruins of Cowdray 494
Selborne, Gilbert White's House 495
Selborne, Gilbert White's Sun-Dial 496
Selborne Church 496
Selborne, Rocky Lane to Alton 497
Selborne, Wishing-Stone 498
Greatham Church 499
Winchester, Cardinal Beaufort's Gate and Brewery 500
New Forest, from Bramble Hill 502
New Forest, Rufus's Stone 503
New Forest, Brockenhurst Church 505
Christchurch, the Priory from the Quay and Place Mills 506
Christchurch 507
Christchurch, Old Norman House and View from Priory 508
Portsmouth Point 510
Portsmouth, H.M.S. "Victory" 511
Cowes Harbor, Isle of Wight 512
The Needles, from Alum Bay, Isle of Wight 513
Yarmouth, Isle of Wight 513
Osborne House, from the Sea, Isle of Wight 514
Shanklin Chine, Isle of Wight 516
The Undercliff, Isle of Wight 517
Carisbrooke Castle, looking from Isle of Wight 519
Tennyson's House, Isle of Wight 521
The Needles, Isle of Wight 522

ENGLAND, PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE.