Chapter II: Part I: By Lieut. Herndon

WASHINGTON:
ROBERT ARMSTRONG, PUBLIC PRINTER
1854.

LETTER OF THE SECRETARY OF THE NAVY,
COMMUNICATING
A REPORT OF AN EXPLORATION OF THE VALLEY OF THE AMAZON AND ITS
TRIBUTARIES, MADE BY LIEUT. HERNDON, IN CONNECTION WITH LIEUT.
GIBBON.

JANUARY 6, 1854.—Resolved, That there be printed, for the use
of the members of the House, ten thousand extra copies of the
report of the Secretary of the Navy communicating the reports
of the exploration of the river Amazon and its tributaries,
made by Lieutenants Herndon and Gibbon, with the accompanying
maps and plates.

APRIL 13, 1854.—Resolved, That there be printed twenty
thousand additional copies of the reports of the surveys and
explorations of the river Amazon, with the plates and maps
accompanying, by Lieutenants Herndon and Gibbon—two hundred
and fifty copies for distribution by Lieutenant Herndon, and
two hundred and fifty copies by Lieutenant Gibbon, and the
remainder for the use of the members of the House.

* * * * *

To the Senate and House of Representatives:

I herewith transmit a communication from the Secretary of the Navy, accompanied by the first part of Lieut. Herndon's Report of the Exploration of the Valley of the Amazon and its tributaries, made by him, in connexion with Lieut. Lardner Gibbon, under instructions from the Navy Department.

MILLARD FILLMORE.

WASHINGTON, February 9, 1853.

* * * * *

NAVY DEPARTMENT, February 7, 1853.

To the PRESIDENT.

SIR: In compliance with the notice given in the annual report of this department to the President, and communicated to Congress at the opening of its present session, I have the honor herewith to submit the first part of the Report of Lieut. Herndon, of the Exploration of the Valley of the Amazon and its tributaries, made by him, in connection with Lieut. Lardner Gibbon, under instructions from this department, dated the 15th of February, 1851.

I am happy to be able to inform you that Lieut. Gibbon reached Pará on his homeward journey some weeks ago, and may very soon be expected to arrive in the United States. When he returns, Lieut. Herndon will have all the materials necessary to complete his report, and will devote himself to that labor with the same assiduity which has characterized his present work.

I would respectfully beg leave to suggest that, in submitting this report to the House of Representatives, it be accompanied with a request to that body, if it should think proper to direct the printing of this valuable document, that the order for that purpose may include all the remaining portions of the report which may hereafter be furnished; and that the order for printing shall include a suitable direction for the engraving and publication of the maps, charts, and sketches, which will be furnished as necessary illustrations of the subjects treated of in the report.

I have the honor to be, with the highest consideration, your obedient servant,

JOHN P. KENNEDY.

* * * * *

WASHINGTON CITY, January 26, 1853.

To the Hon. JOHN P. KENNEDY,
Secretary of the Navy.

SIR: I have the honor to submit part first of the Report of an Exploration of the Valley of the Amazon, made by me, with the assistance of Lieut. Lardner Gibbon, under instructions of the Navy Department, bearing date February 15, 1851.

The desire expressed by the department for an early report of my exploration of the Amazon, and the general interest manifested in the public mind with regard to the same, have induced me to lay before you at once as full an account of our proceedings as can be made before the return of my companion.

The general map which accompanies the report is based upon maps published by the Society for the diffusion of Useful Knowledge, but corrected and improved according to my own personal observations, and on information obtained by me whilst in that country.

The final report of the expedition will be submitted as soon after Lieut. Gibbon's return as practicable. I am in daily expectation of intelligence from him. At the latest accounts (26th of July, 1852) he was at Trinidad de Moxos, on the Mamoré, in the republic of Bolivia, making his preparations for the descent of the Madeira.

I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

WM. LEWIS HERNDON,
Lieut. U. S. Navy.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.

Page.

United States ship Vandalia—Valparaiso—Santiago—Vicente
Pazos—Preparatory orders—Lima—Means of
information—Conquests of the Incas in the
Montaña—First exploration of the Spaniards—Madame
Godin. 1

CHAPTER II.
INTRODUCTORY.

Orders—Investigation of routes—Lake Rogoaguado—River
Beni—Chanchamayo—Cuzco route—River
Madre-de-Dios—Gold mines of Carabaya—Route through
the cities of Truxillo, Caxamarca, Chachapoyas,
Moyobamba, &c.—Preparations for the journey—The
start. 20

CHAPTER III.

Passports—Means of defence—The road—Pacayar—Chaclacayo—Narrow
pass—Yanacoto—Bridge—Cocachacra—Tribute
money—Dividing line between the coast and the
Sierra—Moyoc—Varieties of the potato—Matucana—San
Mateo—Mines of Párac—Narrow valley—Summit of the
Cordillera—Reflections. 39

CHAPTER IV.

Mines of Morococha—A Yankee's house—Mountain of
Puypuy—Splendid view—Pachachaca—Lava
stream—Chain bridge at Oroya—Descent
into the valley of Tarma—Tarma—American
physician—Customs—Dress—Religious
observances—Muleteers and mules—General
Otero—Farming in the Sierra—Road to
Chanchamayo—Perils of travel—Gold mines
of Matichacra—View of the Montaña—Fort San
Ramon—Indians of Chanchamayo—Cultivation. 61

CHAPTER V.

Division of the party—Acobaraba—Plain of Junin—Lake
Chinchaycocha—Preservation of potatoes—Cerro
Pasco—Drainage of the mines—Boliches. 90

CHAPTER VI.

Departure from Cerro Pasco—Mint at Quinua—San
Rafael—Ambo—Quicacan—Huanuco—Cerro de
Carpis—Chinchao valley—Huallaga river. 111

CHAPTER VII.

Itinerary—Tingo Maria—Vampires—Blow guns—Canoe
navigation—Shooting monkeys—Tocache—Sion—Salt hills
of Pilluana. 132

CHAPTER VIII.

Tarapoto—Pongo of Chasuta—Chasuta—Yurimaguas—Sta.
Cruz—Antonio, the Paraguá—Laguna—Mouth of the
Huallaga. 156

CHAPTER IX.

Entrance into the Amazon—Nauta—Upper and lower missions
of Mainas—Conversions of the Ucayali—Trade in
Sarsaparilla—Advantages of trade with this
country. 176

CHAPTER X.

Nauta—River Ucayali—Sarayacu—The missionaries—The Indians of
the Ucayali. 190

CHAPTER XI.

Upper Ucayali—M. Castelnau—Length of navigation—Loss of the
priest—Departure from Sarayacu—Omaguas—Iquitos—Mouth
of the Napo—Pebas—San José de los Yaguas—State of
Indians of Peru. 208

CHAPTER XII.

Chochiquinas—Caballo Cocha—Alligators—Indian
incantations—Loreto—Tabatinga—River Yavari—San
Paulo—River Iça—Tunantins—Making Manteiga—River
Jutay—Fonteboa—River Juruá—River Japurá. 229

CHAPTER XIII.

Egas—Trade—Lake Coari—Mouth of the Rio
Negro—Barra—Trade—Productions. 250

CHAPTER XIV.

Town of Barra—Foreign residents—Population—Rio Negro—Connexion
with the Oronoco—River Purus—Rio Branco—Vegetable
productions of the Amazon country. 269

CHAPTER XV.

Departure from Barra—River Madeira—Serpa—Villa
Nova—Maués—River Trombetas—Cocoa
plantations—Obidos—Santarem. 285

CHAPTER XVI.

Santarem—Population—Trade—River Tapajos—Cuiaba—Diamond
region—Account of the Indians of the Tapajos. 299

CHAPTER XVII.

Departure from Santarem—Monte
Alegre—Prainha—Almeirim—Gurupá—River Xingu—Great
estuary of the Amazon—India-rubber country—Method
of collecting and preparing the India-rubber—Bay of
Limoeiro—Arrival at Pará. 319

CHAPTER XVIII.

Pará. 334

CHAPTER XIX.

Resumé. 352