Chapter II: Part 2

Yes. When the vibrators are not properly adjusted more current is required to make and break the contact between the points, and, as a result, at cranking speeds you would not get a spark between the spark plug points. Do not allow the contact points to become "ragged," otherwise they are apt to stick and cause unnecessary difficulty in starting, and when running they are apt to produce an occasional "miss" in the engine.

_What is the purpose of the Commutator?_ _Answer No. 59_

The commutator (or timer) determines the instant at which the spark plugs must fire. It effects the "make and break" in the primary circuit. The grounded wire in the magneto allows the current to flow through the metal parts to the metal roller in the commutator. Therefore, when the commutator roller in revolving touches the four commutator contact points, to each of which is attached a wire connected with a coil unit, an electrical circuit is passed through the entire system of primary wires. This circuit is only momentary, however, as the roller passes over the contact point very rapidly and sets up the circuit in each unit as the roller touches the contact point connected with that unit. The commutator should be kept clean and well oiled at all times.

_What about the Spark Plugs?_ _Answer No. 60_

One is located at the top of each cylinder and can easily be taken out with the spark plug wrench included with every car, after the wire connection is removed. The high voltage current flows out of the secondary coils in the coil box and on reaching the contact points in each spark plug it is forced to jump a 1/32″ gap, thereby forming a spark which ignites the gasoline charge in the cylinders.

The spark plugs should be kept clean (i. e., free from carbon) and should be replaced if they persist in not working properly. There is nothing to be gained by experimenting with different makes of plugs. The make of plugs with which Ford engines are equipped when they leave the factory are best adapted to the requirements of our motor, notwithstanding the opinion of various garage men to the contrary. All wire connections to spark plugs, coil box and commutator should, of course, at all times be kept in perfect contact.

_What are the indications of Ignition trouble?_ _Answer No. 61_

The uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that one or more cylinders are exploding irregularly or not at all, and that the trouble should be promptly located and overcome. Misfiring, if allowed to continue, will in time injure the engine and the entire mechanism. If you would be known as a good driver you will be satisfied only with a soft, steady purr from the exhaust. If anything goes wrong, stop and fix it if possible--don't wait until you get home.

_How can one tell which Cylinder is missing?_ _Answer No. 62_

This is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark coils. Open the throttle until the engine is running at a good speed and then hold down the two outside vibrators. No. 1 and No. 4, with the fingers, so they cannot buzz. This cuts out the two corresponding cylinders. No. 1 and No. 4, leaving only No. 2 and No. 3 running. If they explode regularly it is obvious the trouble is in either No. 1 or No. 4. Relieve No. 4 and hold down No. 2 and No. 3 and also No. 1; if No. 4 cylinder explodes evenly it is evident the misfiring is in No. 1. In this manner all of the cylinders in turn can be tested until the trouble is located. Examine both the spark plug and the vibrator of the missing cylinder.

_If the Coil and Plug are right--what?_ _Answer No. 63_

The trouble is probably due to an improperly seated valve, worn commutator, or short circuit in the commutator wiring. Weakness in the valves may be easily determined by lifting the starting crank slowly the length of the stroke of each cylinder in turn, a strong or weak compression in any particular valve being easily detected. It sometimes happens that the cylinder head gasket (packing) becomes leaky--permitting the gas under compression to escape, a condition that can be detected by running a little lubricating oil around the edge of the gasket and noticing whether bubbles appear or not.

_Does a worn Commutator ever cause misfiring?_ _Answer No. 64_

Yes. If misfiring occurs when running at high speed, inspect the commutator. The surface of the circle around which roller (see Cut No. 9) travels should be clean and smooth, so that the roller makes a perfect contact at all points. If the roller fails to make a good contact on any one of the four contact points, its corresponding cylinder will not fire. Clean these surfaces, if dirty. In case the fibre, contact points and roller of the commutator are badly worn the most satisfactory remedy is to replace them with new parts. The spring should be strong enough to make a firm contact between the roller points if they are worn or dirty.

Misfiring may also be caused by short circuited commutator wires.

_How is the Commutator removed?_ _Answer No. 65_

Remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter from commutator. Loosen the cap screw which goes through breather pipe on top of time gear cover. This will release the spring which holds the commutator case in place and this part can be readily removed. Unscrew lock nut; withdraw steel brush cap and drive out the retaining pin. The brush can then be removed from the cam shaft.

In replacing the brush, care must be exercised to see that it is replaced so that the exhaust valve on the first cylinder is closed when the brush points upward. This may be ascertained by removing the valve door and observing the operation of No. 1 valve.

_Does cold weather affect the Commutator?_ _Answer No. 66_

It is a well-known fact that in cold weather even the best grades of lubricating oil are apt to congeal to some extent. If this occurs in the commutator it is very apt to prevent the roller from making perfect contact with the contact points imbedded in the fibre. This, of course, makes difficult starting as the roller arm spring is not stiff enough to brush away the film of oil which naturally forms over the contact points. To overcome this, as well as any liability of the contact points to rust, we recommend a mixture of 25% kerosene with commutator lubricating oil, which will thin it sufficiently to prevent congealing, or freezing, as it is commonly called. You have probably noticed in starting your car in cold weather that perhaps only one or two cylinders will fire for the first minute or so, which indicates that the timer is in the condition described above and as a consequence a perfect contact is not being made on each of the four terminals.

_How is the Magneto removed?_ _Answer No. 67_

It is necessary to take the power plant out of the car (see Answer No. 32) in order to remove the magneto. Then remove crank case and transmission cover--take out the four cap screws that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft. You will then have access to the magnets and entire magneto mechanism. In taking out these parts--or any parts of the car--the utmost care should be taken to make sure that the parts are so marked that they may be replaced properly.

_When the Magneto gets out of order--what?_ _Answer No. 68_

The Ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and there is very little likelihood of their ever losing their strength, unless acted upon by some outside force. For instance, the attachment of a storage battery to the magneto terminal will demagnetize the magnets. If anything like this happens, it is not advisable to try to recharge them, but rather install a complete set of new magnets. The new magnets will be sent from the nearest agent or branch house, and will be placed on a board in identically the same manner as they should be when installed on the flywheel. Great care should be taken in assembling the magnets and lining up the magneto so that the faces of the magnets are separated from the surface of the coil spool just 1/32 of an inch. To take out the old magnets, simply remove the cap screw and bronze screw which holds each in place. The magneto is often blamed when the trouble is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign matter accumulating under the contact spring, which is held in place by the binding post on top of the crank case cover. Remove the three screws which hold the binding post in place, remove binding post and spring and replace after foreign substance has been removed.

The Ford Transmission

_What is the function of the Transmission?_ _Answer No. 69_

It is that part of the mechanism of an automobile which lies between the crank shaft and the drive shaft and by which one is enabled to move at different speeds from the other. It is the speed gear of the car. It sends the car forward at low and high speeds and by it the car is reversed.

_What is meant by the term "Planetary Transmission?"_
_Answer No. 70_

One in which the groups of gears always remain in mesh and revolve around a main axis. The different sets of gears are brought into action by stopping the revolution of the parts which support the gears. By means of bands (similar to brake bands) the rotation of the different parts is stopped. The planetary transmission is the simplest and most direct means of speed control--and is a distinct advantage of the Ford car.

_What is the purpose of the Clutch?_ _Answer No. 71_

If the crank shaft of the engine ran without break straight through to the differential--and through it applied its power direct to the rear wheels--the car would start forward immediately upon the starting of the engine (were it possible to get it started under such conditions). To overcome this difficulty the shaft is divided and by means of the clutch the part of the shaft to which the running engine is delivering its power is enabled to take hold of the unmoving part gradually and start the car without jolt or jar. The forward part of the shaft is referred to as the crank shaft, the rear part as the drive shaft.

_How is the Clutch controlled?_ _Answer No. 72_

By the left pedal at the driver's feet (see Answer No. 10). If the clutch pedal, when pushed forward into slow speed, has a tendency to stick and not come back readily into high, tighten up the slow speed band as directed in Answer No. 74. Should the machine have an inclination to creep forward when cranking, it indicates that the clutch lever screw which bears on the clutch lever cam has worn, and requires an extra turn to hold the clutch in neutral position. When the clutch is released by pulling back the hand lever the pedal should move forward a distance of 1¾″ in passing from high speed to neutral. See that the hub brake shoe and connections are in proper order so that the brake will act sufficiently to prevent the car creeping very far ahead. Also be sure the slow speed band does not bind on account of being adjusted too tight. Don't use a too heavy grade of oil in cold weather as it will have a tendency to congeal between the clutch discs and prevent proper action of the clutch.

_How is the Clutch adjusted?_ _Answer No. 73_

Remove the plate on the transmission cover under the floor boards at the driver's feet. Take out the cotter key on the first clutch finger and give the set screw one-half to one complete turn to the right with a screw-driver. Do the same to the other finger set screws. But be sure to give each the same number of turns and don't forget to replace the cotter key. And after a considerable period of service the wear in the clutch may be taken up by installing another pair of clutch discs, rather than by turning the adjusting screws in too far.

CAUTION: Let us warn you against placing any small tools or objects over or in the transmission case without a good wire or cord attached to them. Otherwise if they are dropped into the transmission case it is almost impossible to recover them without taking off the transmission cover.

_How are the Bands adjusted?_ _Answer No. 74_

The slow speed band may be tightened by loosening the lock nut at the right side of the transmission cover, and turning the adjusting screw (see Cut No. 12) to the right. To tighten the brake and reverse bands remove the transmission cover door and turn the adjusting nuts on the shafts to the right. See that the bands do not drag on the drums when disengaged, as they exert a brake effect, and tend to overheat the motor. However, the foot brake should be adjusted so that a sudden pressure will stop the car immediately, or slide the rear wheels in case of emergency. The bands, when worn to such an extent that they will not take hold properly, should be relined, so that they will engage smoothly without causing a jerky movement of the car. The lining is inexpensive and may be had at any Ford service station at small cost.

_How are the Bands removed?_ _Answer No. 75_

Remove the starting motor (see Answer No. 128). Take off the door on top of transmission cover. Turn the reverse adjustment nut and the brake adjustment nut to the extreme end of the pedal shafts, then remove the slow speed adjusting screw. Remove the bolts holding the transmission cover to crank case and lift off the cover assembly. Slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first of the triple gears, then turn the band around so that the opening is downward. The band can now be removed by lifting upward. The operation is more easily accomplished if the three sets of triple gears are so placed that one set is about ten degrees to the right of center at top. Each band is removed by the same operation. It is necessary to shove each band forward on to the triple gears as at this point only is there sufficient clearance in the crank case to allow the ears of the transmission bands to be turned downward. By reversing this operation the bands may be installed. After being placed in their upright position on the drums pass a cord around the ears of the three bands, holding them in the center so that when putting the transmission cover in place no trouble will be experienced in getting the pedal shafts to rest in the notches in the band ears. The clutch release ring must be placed in the rear groove of the clutch shift. With the cover in place remove the cord which held the bands in place while the cover was being installed.

_How is the Transmission assembled?_ _Answer No. 76_

Cut No. 13 shows the transmission parts in their relative assembling positions and grouped in their different operations of assembling.

The first operation is the assembling of group No. 2, which is as follows: Place the brake drum on table with the hub in a vertical position, place the slow speed plate over the hub with gear uppermost. Then place reverse plate over the slow speed plate so that the reverse gear surrounds the slow speed gear. Fit the two keys in the hub just above the slow speed gear. Put the driven gear in position with the teeth downward so that they will come next to the slow speed gear. Take the three triple gears and mesh them with the driven gear according to the punch marks on the teeth, the reverse gear or smallest of the triple gear assembly being downward. After making sure that the triple gears are properly meshed tie them in place by passing a cord around the outside of the three gears. Take the flywheel and place it on the table with the face downward and the transmission shaft in a vertical position; then invert the group which you have assembled over the transmission shaft, setting it in position so that the triple gear pins on the flywheel will pass through the triple gears. This will bring the brake drum on top in a position to hold the clutch plates, etc. The next step is to fit the clutch drum key in the transmission shaft. Press the clutch disc drum over the shaft and put the set screw in place to hold the drum. Put a large disc over the clutch drum, then a small disc, alternating with large and small discs until the entire set of discs are in position, ending up with a large disc on top.

If a small disc is on top it is liable to fall over the clutch drum in changing the speed from high to low and as a result you would be unable to change the speed back into high. Next put the clutch push ring over the clutch drum, and on top of the discs with the three pins projecting upward (see Group No. 4, Cut No. 13). You will note the remaining parts are placed as they will be assembled. Next bolt the driving plate in position so that the adjusting screws of the clutch fingers will bear against the clutch push ring pins. Before proceeding further it would be a good plan to test the transmission by moving the plates with the hands. If the transmission is properly assembled they will revolve freely. The clutch parts may be assembled on the driving plate hub as follows: Slip the clutch shift over the hub so that the small end rests on the ends of the clutch fingers. Next put on the clutch spring, placing the clutch support inside so that the flange will rest on the upper coil of the spring and press into place, inserting the pin in the driving plate hub through the holes in the side of the spring support. Then turn the clutch spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the bottom of the support. The easiest method of compressing the spring sufficiently to insert the pin is to loosen the tension of the clutch finger by means of the adjusting screws. When tightening up the clutch again the spring should be compressed to within a space of two or two and one-sixteenth inches to insure against the clutch slipping. Care should be exercised to see that the screws in the fingers are adjusted so the spring is compressed evenly all around.

The Rear Axle Assembly

_How is the Rear Axle removed?_ _Answer No. 77_

Jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed in Answer No. 89. Take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover. Disconnect brake rods. Remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges. Raise frame at the rear end, and the axle can be easily withdrawn.

_How is the Universal Joint disconnected from the Drive Shaft?_
_Answer No. 78_

Remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole, drive out pin and the joint can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing.

_How are the Rear Axle and Differential disassembled?_
_Answer No. 79_

With the universal joint disconnected, remove nuts in front end of radius rods and the nuts on studs holding drive shaft tube to rear axle housing. Remove bolts which hold the two halves of differential housing together. If necessary to disassemble differential a very slight mechanical knowledge will permit one to immediately discern how to do it once it is exposed to view. Care must be exercised to get every pin, bolt and keylock back in its correct position when reassembling.

_How is the Drive Shaft Pinion removed?_ _Answer No. 80_

The end of the drive shaft, to which the pinion is attached, is tapered to fit the tapered hole in the pinion, which is keyed onto the shaft, and then secured by a cotter-pinned "castle" nut. Remove the castle nut, and drive the pinion off.

_How are the Differential Gears Removed?_ _Answer No. 81_

The differential gears are attached to the inner ends of the rear axle shaft. They work upon the differential pinions when turning a corner, so that the axle shafts revolve independently, but when the car is moving in a straight line the differential pinions and differential gears and axle shafts move as an integral part. If you will examine the rear axle shafts you will notice that the gears are keyed on, and held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the differential gears, force them down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to which they are secured, drive out the two halves of ring in the grooves in shaft with screw-driver or chisel, then force the gears off the end of the shafts.

_How is the Rear Axle Shaft removed?_ _Answer No. 82_

Disconnect rear axle as directed in Answer No. 77, then unbolt the drive shaft assembly where it joins the rear axle housing at the differential. Disconnect the radius rods and brake rods at the outer ends of the housing. Take out the bolts which hold the two halves of the rear axle housing together at the center and remove the housing. Take the inner differential casing apart and draw the axle shaft out.

After replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position. When the car has been driven thirty days or so, make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome any play that might have developed. It is extremely important that the rear wheels are kept tight, otherwise the constant rocking back and forth against the keyway may in time cause serious trouble.

If the rear axle or wheel is sprung by skidding against a curb, or other accident, it is false economy to drive the car without correcting the trouble, as tires, gears and all other parts will suffer. If the axle shaft is bent, it can, with proper facilities, be straightened, but it is best to replace it.

The Ford Muffler

_Why is the Muffler necessary?_ _Answer No. 83_

The exhaust as it comes from the engine through the exhaust pipe would create a constant and distracting noise were it not for the muffler. From the comparatively small pipe, the exhaust is liberated into the larger chambers of the muffler, where the force of the exhaust is lessened by expansion and discharged out of the muffler with practically no noise. The Ford muffler construction is such that there is very little back pressure of the escaping gases, consequently there is nothing to be gained by putting a cut-out in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the muffler.

_How is the Muffler disconnected?_ _Answer No. 84_

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the motor by unscrewing the pack nut and remove the bolts which hold the muffler to the frame. After the muffler has been disconnected it can be disassembled by removing the nut at the rear end.

The Running Gear

_What care should the Running Gear have?_ _Answer No. 85_

In the first place it at all times should have proper lubrication (see chapter on Lubrication). Once in every thirty days the front and rear axles should be carefully gone over to see that every moving part, such as the bushings in spring connections, spring hangers, steering knuckles and hub bearings, are thoroughly lubricated, and that all nuts and connections are secured with cotter pins in place. The spring clips, which attach the front spring to the frame, should be inspected frequently to see that everything is in perfect order.

_How is the Front Axle removed?_ _Answer No. 86_

Jack up front of car so wheels can be removed (see Answer No. 89), disconnect steering gear ball arm from the spindle connecting rod, disconnect radius rod at ball joint, and remove two cotter pin bolts from spring shackle on each side, so detaching front spring.

To disconnect radius rod from axle, remove cotter-pinned nuts. To remove radius rod entirely, take the two bolts out of the ball joint and remove lower half of cap.

_In case of accident, how is the Front Axle straightened?_
_Answer No. 87_

Should the axle or spindle become bent extreme care must be used to straighten the parts accurately. Do not heat the forgings, as this will untemper the steel, but straighten them cold. If convenient it would be better to return such parts to the dealer, where they may be properly straightened in jigs designed for that purpose. It is very essential that the wheels line up properly (see Answer No. 90).

The eye is not sufficiently accurate to determine whether the parts have been properly straightened, and excessive wear of the front tires will occur if everything is not in perfect alignment.

_What about the Wheels?_ _Answer No. 88_

The wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested, not only for smoothness of running, but for side play as well. If in spinning a front wheel a sharp click occurs now and then and the wheel is momentarily checked, it is probable that there is a chipped or split ball in the bearing which should be removed, otherwise it may necessitate the removal of the entire bearing. A wheel in perfect adjustment should, after spinning, come to rest with the tire valve directly below the hub. Undue wear of the hub bearings is usually caused by lack of lubrication and excessive friction, due to the adjusting cone being screwed up too tight. It is a good plan to clean the bearings frequently and keep the hub well filled with grease.

_How are the Wheels removed?_ _Answer No. 89_

Front wheels: Take off hub cap, remove cotter pin and unscrew castle nut and spindle washer. The adjustable bearing cone can then be taken out and the wheel removed. Care should be taken to see that the cones and lock nuts are replaced on the same spindle from which they were removed, otherwise there is a liability of stripping the threads which are left on the left spindle and right on the opposite as you stand facing the car. Rear wheels: They should not be removed unless absolutely necessary--in which case proceed as above, then with a wheel puller remove the wheel from the tapered shaft to which it is locked with a key. In replacing rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible and cotter pin in place. The hub caps of the rear wheels should be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold the hub in place tightened up. If these nuts are allowed to work loose, the resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist off the axle shaft.

_How does the setting of the Front Wheels differ from that of the Rear Wheels?_ _Answer No. 90_

It will be observed that the front wheels are "dished;" that is, the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet side stresses with less rigid resistance--while the spokes of the rear wheels are straight. The front wheels are also placed at an angle--that is to say, the distance between the tops of the front wheels is about three inches greater than between the bottoms. This is to give perfect steering qualities and to save wear on the tires when turning corners. The front wheels should not, however, "toe-in" at the front--at least not more than a quarter of an inch. Lines drawn along the outside of the wheels when the latter are straight in a forward position should be parallel. All wheels should always be kept in proper alignment, otherwise steering will be difficult and tire wear greatly increased. Adjustment can be made by turning the yoke at the left end of the spindle connecting rod, to draw the wheels into a parallel position.

_What about installing Roller Bearing Cups?_ _Answer No. 91_

Whenever it is necessary to install roller bearing cups, either in changing over from ball bearings to roller bearings or in replacing worn cups, the work should be done by a Dealer or Garage which has the necessary equipment for this work. In order to avoid excessive wear of the bearings it is essential that the cups be fitted absolutely true and this is practically impossible without the use of special equipment.

_How are the Roller Bearings installed?_ _Answer No. 92_

First, pack the hub full of clean good quality cup grease. Take the inner cone with its rollers and pack it with grease, filling all of the space around and between the rollers. Then place the inner cone in the larger cup. Next, drive the dust ring with felt washer into the inner end of the hub so that it is flush with the end of the hub.

Place the wheel carrying the inner bearings with dust ring on the spindle. The inner cone is a one-thousandth fit, or, in other words, a slip fit on the spindle. (See Cut No. 17.) It is never necessary to force the cone onto the spindle as the cups are forced into the hub. Pack the outer or threaded cone and rollers with cup grease, filling all the space between the rollers, as was done with the inner cone. The cones are made up in right-and left-hand threads to correspond to the threads on the spindles. Care should be taken that a right-hand threaded cone is not forced onto a left-hand threaded spindle. The right-hand thread is on the left-hand side of the car, while the left-hand thread is on the right-hand side of the car. Place the cone on the spindle, running it up tight enough so that the wheel seems to bind; give the wheel a few turns to be sure that all the working parts are in perfect contact; then back off the cone ¼ to ½ a turn which will be sufficient to allow the wheel to revolve freely without end play. To determine if there is end play, grasp the spokes and shake the wheel. Do not mistake loose spindle bushings for loose bearings. Insert a cold chisel between axle and spindle to take up any play while testing the bearings. Next, put on the spindle washer and nut, drawing the nut to a firm bearing. Make sure that the cone has not been forced out of adjustment. This can be determined by giving the wheel a few turns. Insert the cotter pin which locks the nut on the spindle, fill the hub cap with grease and screw it in place on the hub.

_How often should the Bearings be lubricated?_ _Answer No. 93_

Every three or four months the wheels should be removed, the old grease taken out and the hubs and bearings thoroughly cleansed with kerosene. Then repack the hub and bearings with clean grease and readjust the bearings.

_What care do the Springs need?_ _Answer No. 94_

The springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite. To do this, pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant between them. Whenever a car is given a general overhauling, the springs should be disassembled and the leaves polished with emery cloth, afterwards packing them with graphite when reassembling. Rust can be prevented from accumulating on the springs by painting them when necessary with a quick drying black paint. You will find that these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the riding qualities of the car but prolong the life of the parts as well.

_Should Spring Clips be kept tight?_ _Answer No. 95_

Yes. If the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the centre of the spring. This may cause the bolt to be sheared off and allow the frame and body to shift a trifle to one side. It is a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the frame and see that they are kept tight.

_What about the Steering Apparatus?_ _Answer No. 96_

It is exceedingly simple and will need little care--except, of course, proper lubrication. The post gears which are arranged in the "sun and planet" form are located at the top of the post just below the hub of the wheel (see Cut No. 1). By loosening the set screw and unscrewing the cap--after having removed the steering wheel--they may readily be inspected and replenished with grease. To remove the steering wheel, unscrew the nut on top of the post and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block of wood and hammer.

_How is Steering Gear tightened?_ _Answer No. 97_

Should the steering gear become loose, that is, so that a slight movement of the wheel does not produce immediate results, it may be tightened in the following manner: Disconnect the two halves of the ball sockets which surround the ball arm at the lower end of the steering post and file off the surface until they fit snugly around the ball. If the ball is badly worn it is best to replace it with a new one. Also tighten the ball caps at the other end of the steering gear connecting rod in the same manner. If the bolts in the steering spindle arms appear to be loose, the brass bushings should be replaced with new ones (see Cut No. 16). Excessive play in the front axle may be detected by grasping one of the front wheels by the spokes and jerking the front axle back and forth. After the car has been in service two or three years excessive play in the steering gear may make necessary the renewal of the little pinions, as well as the brass internal gear just underneath the steering wheel spider.

It is also advisable to inspect the front spring and front spring perches occasionally to determine whether or not new bushings are necessary to overcome any excessive vibration.

The Ford Lubricating System

_How does the Ford Lubricating System differ from others?_
_Answer No. 98_

It is simplified--and there are fewer places to oil. Practically all of the parts of the engine and transmission are oiled by the Ford splash system, from the one big oil reservoir in the crank case. Cut No. 18 shows the principal points of lubrication, and specifies when replenishment should be made, according to mileage. This chart should be studied carefully and often. It is a good plan to frequently supply all oil cups with the same oil used in the engine (any good light grade lubricating oil will answer) and the dope cups with good grease. Be sure to see that the commutator is kept freely supplied with oil at all times.

_Which is the best way to fill the "Dope" Cups?_ _Answer No. 99_

When it is advisable to fill dope cup covers screw them down, refill with grease and repeat the operation two or three times. Always open oil cups by turning to right, as this keeps tightening rather than loosening them. Occasionally remove front wheels and supply dope to wearing surface. A drop of oil now and then in crank-handle bearing is necessary, also on fan belt pulleys and shaft. The axles drive shaft and universal joint are well supplied with lubricant when the car leaves the factory, but it is well to examine and oil them frequently.

_What kind of Oil should be used?_ _Answer No. 100_

We recommend only medium light high-grade gas engine oil for use in the Model T motor. A medium light grade of oil is preferred as it will naturally reach the bearings with greater ease and consequently less heat will develop on account of friction. The oil should, however, have sufficient body so that the pressure between the two bearing surfaces will not force the oil out and allow the metal to come in actual contact. Heavy and inferior oils have a tendency to carbonize quickly, also "gum up" the piston rings, valve stems and bearings. In cold weather a light grade of oil having a low cold test is absolutely essential for the proper lubrication of the car. Graphite should not be used as a lubricant in the engine or the transmission as it will have a tendency to short-circuit the magneto.

_How often should Oil be drained from Crank Case?_ _Answer No. 101_

It is advisable to clean out the crank case by draining off the dirty oil when the new car has been driven three hundred and fifty miles; thereafter it will only be necessary to repeat this operation about every seven hundred and fifty miles. Remove the plug underneath the flywheel casing and drain off the oil. Replace the plug and pour in a gallon of kerosene oil through the breather pipe. Turn the engine over fifteen or twenty times so that the splash from the kerosene oil will thoroughly cleanse the engine. Remove crank case plug and drain off kerosene oil. It is of vital importance that all the kerosene be removed from the depressions in the crank case. To do this put about a quart of lubricating oil into the motor and turn engine over several times, then remove the crank case plug and drain off the flushing oil; then replace plug and refill with fresh oil. (See Answer No. 3.)

_How often should Commutator be oiled?_ _Answer No. 102_

Keeping the commutator well oiled is a matter of far greater importance than many drivers believe, and is necessary in order to have a smooth operating engine. Don't be afraid to put a little oil into the commutator every other day--at least every 200 miles. Remember that the commutator roller revolves very rapidly, and without sufficient lubrication the parts soon become badly worn. When in this condition perfect contact between the roller and the four contact points is impossible, as a result the engine is apt to misfire when running at a good rate of speed.

_What about Lubricating the Differential?_ _Answer No. 103_

Do not make the mistake of putting too much grease in the differential housing. The housing should not be more than one-third full. The differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory. The oil plug should be removed about every 1000 miles and more grease added if necessary. If a fluid grease is used the level should be approximately one and one-half inches below the oil hole.

Care of the Tires

_How are Ford Tires removed?_ _Answer No. 104_

First, jack up the wheel clear of the road. The valve cap should be unscrewed, the lock nut removed and the valve stem pushed into the tire until its bead is flush with the rim. This done, loosen up the head of the shoe in the clinch of the rim by working and pushing with the hands, then insert one of the tire irons or levers under the beads. The tire iron should be pushed in just enough to get a good hold on the under side of the bead, but not so far as to "pinch" the inner tube between the rim and the tool. A second iron should be inserted in the same fashion some seven or eight inches from the first, and the third tool the same distance from the second. As a clincher tire must be pried over the clinch, three levers will come in handy in a case of a "one-man job," and the knee of the driver can be used to good advantage to hold down one lever while the other two are being manipulated in working the shoe clear of the rim. After freeing a length of the bead from the clinch, the entire outer edge of the casing may be readily detached with the hands, and the damaged inner tube removed and "patched" or a spare tube inserted. Always use plenty of soapstone in replacing an inner tube.

_How are Casings repaired?_ _Answer No. 105_

Should the casing be cut so there is danger of the inner tube being blown through it, a temporary repair can be made by cementing a canvas patch on the inside of the casing. Before applying the patch the part of the casing affected should be cleaned with gasoline and when dry, rubber cement applied to both casing and patch. This will answer as an emergency repair--but the casing should be vulcanized at the first opportunity.

To prolong the life of the tire casings, any small cuts in the tread should be filled with patching cement and a specially prepared "plastic" sold by the tire companies.

_How may Tire Expense be reduced?_ _Answer No. 106_

Tire cost constitutes one of the most important items in the running expenses of an automobile. To get the most service at the least expense, the tires should be inspected frequently and all small cuts or holes properly sealed or repaired--thus preventing dirt and water working in between the rubber tread and the fabric, causing blisters or sand boils.

Tires should never be run partially deflated, as the side walls are unduly bent and the fabric is subject to stresses which cause what is known as rim cutting. The chances of getting a puncture will be greatly reduced by keeping your tires properly inflated, as a hard tire exposes much less surface to the road than a soft tire, and also deflects sharp objects that would penetrate a soft tire.

Running a tire flat, even for a short distance, is sure to be costly. Better run on the rim, very slowly and carefully, rather than on a flat tire.

Remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of the tires. Avoid locking the wheels with the brakes--no tire will stand the strain of being dragged over the pavement in this fashion.

Avoid running in street car tracks, in ruts, or bumping the sides of the tire against the curbing.

The wheel rims should be painted each season and kept free from rust. When a car is idle for any appreciable length of time, it should be jacked up to take the load off the tires. If the car is laid up for many months it is best to remove the tires, and wrap up the outer casings and inner tubes separately, and store them in a dark room not exposed to extreme temperatures. Remove oil or grease from the tires with gasoline. Remember that heat, light and oil are three natural enemies of rubber.

_How is a puncture in the Inner Tube repaired?_ _Answer No. 107_

After locating the puncture, carefully clean the rubber around the leak with benzine or gasoline. Then roughen the surface with sandpaper to give a hold for the cement. Apply the cement to both patch and tube, allowing it to dry for about five minutes, repeating the application twice with like intervals between for drying. When the cement is dry and sticky press the patch against the tube firmly and thoroughly to remove all air bubbles beneath it and insure proper adherence to the surface--then spread some soapstone or talc powder over the repair so as to prevent the tube sticking to the casing. Before the tube is put back into the casing plenty of talc powder should be sprinkled into the latter. A cement patch is not usually permanent and the tube should be vulcanized as soon as possible. In replacing the tire on the rim be very careful not to pinch the tube.

Points on Maintenance

_What is the proper way to wash the Car?_ _Answer No. 108_

Always use cold or lukewarm water--never hot water. If a hose is used, don't turn on the water at full force, as this drives the dirt into the varnish and injures the finish. After the surplus mud and grime have been washed off take a sponge and clean the body and running gear with a tepid solution of water and Ivory or linseed oil soap. Rinse off with cold water; then rub dry and polish the body with a chamois skin. A body or furniture polish of good quality may be used to add lustre to the car. Grease on the running gear may be removed with a gasoline-soaked sponge or rag. The nickeled parts may be polished with any good metal polish.

_What care does Top need?_ _Answer No. 109_

When putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers, as they will chafe a hole through the top very quickly. Applying a good top dressing will greatly improve the appearance of an old top.

_What should be done when the Car is stored?_ _Answer No. 110_

Drain the water from the radiator, and then put in about a quart of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may possibly remain. Remove cylinder head and clean out any carbon deposits in combustion chamber. Draw off all the gasoline. Drain the dirty oil from the crank case and cleanse the engine with kerosene as directed in Answer No. 101. Refill the crank case with fresh oil and revolve the engine enough to cover the different parts with oil. Remove the tires and store them away. Wash up the car, and if possible cover the body with a sheet of muslin to protect the finish.

_What attention do the Electric Head Lights require?_
_Answer No. 111_

Very little. When the cars leave our factory the lamps are properly focused and unless the bulb burns out there should be no occasion for removing the door, as there is nothing to get out of order. Should the door be removed for any reason care should be exercised not to touch the silver-plated reflector or the bulb with anything but a soft, clean rag, preferably flannel. To focus the lamps turn the adjusting screw in the back of lamp in either direction until the desired focus is attained.

The Ford Model T One Ton Truck

_Do the Instructions relative to the Car apply to the Truck?_
_Answer No. 112_

The answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the truck, with the exception of Nos. 79, 80 and 81.

_How are the Rear Axle and Differential disassembled?_
_Answer No. 113_

With the universal joint disconnected, remove the bolt in front end of radius rods and the cap screws which hold the drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing. Then remove the rear axle housing cap; also the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential housing together. With the differential exposed to view, the manner of disassembling it will be apparent. Care must be exercised to get every part back in its correct position when reassembling, being sure to use new paper liners.

_How is the Worm removed?_ _Answer No. 114_

To remove the worm, drive out the pins which hold the coupling to the worm and drive shaft. Then remove the felt washer, roller bearing sleeve, and roller bearing by slipping them over the coupling. Drive the coupling off from the drive shaft and then force the worm from the coupling. Removing the worm nut will permit the removal of the retaining washer, thrust bearing and rear worm roller bearing. In reassembling be sure that the pin which holds the retaining washer stationary is in place.

_How is the Differential Gear removed from the Shaft?_
_Answer No. 115_

The differential gear is fastened to the inner end of the rear axle shaft by means of splines, and is held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft. To remove the gear, force it down on the shaft, that is, away from the end to which it is fastened, drive out the two halves of the ring in groove in shaft with screw-driver or chisel, and force the gear off the end of the shaft.

_What about Lubricating the Rear Axle?_ _Answer No. 116_

Extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential. An A-l heavy fluid or semi-fluid oil, such as Mobiloil C or Whittemore's Worm Gear Protective, should be used and carried at a level with the upper oil plug. The differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the truck leaves the factory and the supply should be maintained by replenishments as required. After running the truck about 500 miles, the oil should be drained off by removing the lower oil plug, and the differential filled with fresh lubricant. This operation should be repeated at approximately 1000 miles, and after that whenever necessary. The rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means of dope cups. These cups should be kept filled with a good grade of grease and given a full turn every 100 miles. Before putting the truck back in service after the rear axle has been taken down, fill the differential with oil, jack up the axle and run it for five or ten minutes to insure proper lubrication of all bearings.

The Ford Starting and Lighting System

_Of what does the Starting and Lighting System consist?_
_Answer No. 117_

The starting and lighting system is of the two unit type and consists of the starting motor, generator, storage battery, ammeter, and lights, together with the necessary wiring and connections.

_Where is the Starter located?_ _Answer No. 118_

The starting motor is mounted on the left-hand side of the engine and bolted to the transmission cover. When in operation the pinion on the Bendix drive shaft engages with the teeth on the flywheel.

_What if the Engine fails to start?_ _Answer No. 119_

If the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over and the engine fails to start, the trouble is not in the starting system. In this event release the button at once so as not to unnecessarily discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor and ignition system to determine the trouble.

_What if the Starting Motor fails to act?_ _Answer No. 120_

If the starting motor fails to act, after pushing the button, first inspect the terminal on the starting motor, the two terminals on the battery and the two terminals on starting switch, making sure all of the connections are tight; then examine the wiring for a break in the insulation that would cause a short circuit. If the wiring and connections are O. K. and the starting motor fails to act, test the battery with a hydrometer. If the hydrometer reading is less than 1.225 the trouble is no doubt due to a weak or discharged battery.

_What if the driver steps on Starting Button when engine is running?_ _Answer No. 121_

Should the driver accidentally step on the starting button while the engine is running, no harm will result. The pinion merely touches the revolving flywheel gear once and immediately rotates with the threaded shaft out of contact with the flywheel, in the same manner as when it has been disengaged by the engine's starting.

_How is the Generator operated?_ _Answer No. 122_

The generator is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine and bolted to the cylinder front end cover. It is operated by the pinion on the armature shaft engaging with the large time gear. The charging rate of generator is set so as to cut in at engine speeds corresponding to 10 miles per hour in high speed and reaches a maximum charging rate at 20 miles per hour. At higher speeds the charge will taper off, which is a settled characteristic of a generator. This operation of cutting in and cutting out at suitable speeds is accomplished by the cut-out, which is mounted on the generator. This cut-out is set properly at the factory and should not under any circumstances be tampered with.

_What about Oiling?_ _Answer No. 123_

The starting motor is lubricated by the Ford splash system, the same as the engine and transmission. The generator is lubricated by a splash of oil from the time gears. In addition an oil cup is located at the end of the generator housing and a few drops of oil should be applied occasionally.

_What should be done when repairing the Ignition?_ _Answer No. 124_

The introduction of a battery current into the magneto will discharge the magnets and whenever working on the ignition system or wiring do not fail to disconnect the positive wire from the battery. The end of this wire should be wound with tape to prevent its coming in contact with the terminal again.

_How does the Ammeter operate?_ _Answer No. 125_