Chapter III: Part 3

The ammeter is located on the instrument board. This indicator registers "charge" when the generator is charging the battery and "discharge" when the lights are burning and the engine not running above 10 miles per hour. At an engine speed of 15 miles per hour or more the ammeter should show a reading of from 10 to 12. If the engine is running above 15 miles per hour and the ammeter does not show a proper reading, first inspect the terminal posts on the ammeter, making sure that the connections are tight, then disconnect the wire from the terminal on generator, and with the engine running at a moderate speed, take a pair of pliers or a screw-driver and short-circuit the terminal stud on the generator to the generator housing. If the generator is O. K., a good live spark will be noted. (Do not run the engine any longer than is necessary with the terminal wire disconnected.) Next inspect the wiring from the generator through the ammeter, to the battery for a break in the insulation that would result in a short-circuit. If the trouble is not located, then remove the dust cap from the end of generator and thoroughly clean the generator commutator, using for this work a fine grade of sandpaper which has been slightly oiled. With the motor running hold the sandpaper against the commutator with the fingers until all dirt has been removed and a bright surface attained.

_How are the Lights operated?_ _Answer No. 126_

The lighting system consists of two headlights and a tail light operated by a combination lighting and ignition switch located on the instrument board. The headlamp bulbs are of 6-8 volt, double filament type. The major filament is 18 candle-power, and the minor filament is 2¾ candle-power. The small bulb used in the tail light is of 6-8 volt, single contact, two candle-power type. All of the lamps are connected in parallel so that the burning out or removal of any one of them will not affect the other. Current for the lamps is supplied by the battery. Do not connect the lights to the magneto as it will result in burning out the bulbs and might discharge the magnets. Cut No. 23 shows the different circuits and the course of the current.

_What about repairing Starter and Generator_ _Answer No. 127_

If either the starter or generator fails to give proper service, the owner should at once consult an authorized Ford dealer. _Owners should not attempt to repair or adjust the mechanism of the starter and generator._

_How is the Starter removed?_ _Answer No. 128_

When removing the starter to replace transmission bands, or for any other reason, first remove the engine pan on the left-hand side of the engine and with a screw-driver remove the four small screws holding the shaft cover to the transmission cover. Upon removing cover and gasket, turn the Bendix drive shaft around so that the set screw on the end of the shaft is at the top. Immediately under the set screw is placed a lock washer, designed with lips or extensions opposite each other. One of these is turned against the collar and the other is turned up against the side of the screw head. Bend back the lip which has been forced against the screw and remove the set-screw. As the lock washer will no doubt be broken or weakened in removing the starter, a new one must be used when replacing it. Next, pull the Bendix assembly out of the housing, being careful that the small key is not misplaced nor lost. Remove the four screws which hold the starter housing to the transmission cover, and pull out the starter, taking same down through the chassis--this is why it was necessary to remove the engine pan. Extreme care should be used in removing the Bendix drive and other parts that none are misplaced nor lost and that they are replaced in their former position. In replacing the starter, be sure that the terminal connection is placed at the top. If the car is to be operated with the starter removed, be sure to put the transmission cover plates in position. These plates may be obtained from the nearest dealer.

_How is the Bendix Drive assembled to the Starting Motor?_
_Answer No. 129_

When assembling the Bendix Drive to the starting motor shaft, care must be used to see that the stop nut or bearing which enters the mounting bracket on the starting motor is not too tight; also that the bearing is in proper alignment with the bracket. The bearing should be oiled and then fitted so that it can be turned readily with the fingers. If the bearing is too tight, it should be dressed down with an oil stone. Too tight a fit will cause the bearing to freeze to the bracket, resulting in serious damage to the starter.

_How is the Generator removed?_ _Answer No. 130_

If it is found necessary to remove the generator, first take out the three cap screws holding it to the front end cover and by placing the point of a screw-driver between the generator and front end cover, the generator may be forced off the engine assembly. Always start at the top of the generator and force it backward and downward at the same time. Plates may be obtained from the nearest dealer to place over the time gear if the car is to be operated with the generator removed.

_What should be done when replacing the Generator?_
_Answer No. 131_

When installing the generator, the drive pinion must be properly meshed with the large time gear. The generator bracket, that is, the section to which the generator is bolted is separate from the cylinder block and the meshing of the generator driving pinion with the large time gear can be regulated by the use of one or more paper gaskets between the bracket and the cylinder block. The bracket should rest tightly on the crankcase gasket and line up with the face of the time gear case. If these gears are meshed too tightly, a humming noise will result, also the generator shaft will be thrown out of alignment.

_Can the Engine be run with the Generator disconnected from the battery?_ _Answer No. 132_

If for any reason the engine is run with the generator disconnected from the battery, as on a block test, or when battery has been removed for repair or recharging, be sure that the generator is grounded by running a wire from the terminal on generator to one of the dust cover screws in the yoke. Two strands of shipping tag wire may be used for this purpose. Be sure that the connections at both ends of the wire are tight. Failure to do this when running the engine with the generator disconnected from the battery will result in serious injury to the generator. _Never ground the generator through the cut-out._

_What type of Battery is used?_ _Answer No. 133_

The Ford Starting System uses a six-volt, three-cell battery.

_How are Hydrometer Readings taken?_ _Answer No. 134_

Hydrometer readings should be taken about every two weeks to make sure that the generator is keeping the battery charged. To take a hydrometer reading, remove the filling plugs (remove the plug from only one cell at a time). Next, insert hydrometer syringe in the filler tube and draw up enough of the solution to float the glass bulb inside the instrument. The reading of the scale at the surface of the liquid (see Cut No. 24) gives the strength of the solution. Be sure to return the electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken. Following is a list of the readings with their indications. The readings in parentheses apply to batteries used in tropical climates where water never freezes. Readings of 1.275 (1.200) or more indicate a fully charged battery. Readings of less than 1.225 (1.130) but more than 1.150 (1.080) indicate complete discharge. Hydrometer tests taken immediately after filling with water and before it has become thoroughly mixed with the electrolyte will not show the true condition of the battery. If the hydrometer reading shows the battery less than one-half charged, it should be taken to the nearest authorized Battery Service Station for recharging. Continued operation in a less than half-charged condition is injurious to the battery somewhat as running on a soft or deflated tire is injurious to the tire. Before replacing the battery, the cause of the discharged condition should be removed. It may be due to leaks or grounds in the car wiring or to the electric system having gotten out of adjustment so that the battery is not kept supplied with the proper amount of current from the generator. If the reading in one cell is more than 50 points different from the others, it indicates that the cell is not in good order and the battery should be taken to a skilled service man for attention.

_When should water be added to the Battery?_ _Answer No. 135_

Add nothing but pure water to the cells and do it often enough to keep the plates covered at all times. The solution (electrolyte) should be maintained at a level with the bottom of the filling tube. Distilled water, melted artificial (but not natural) ice and rain water, if obtained in the open country from a clean slate or shingle-covered roof, are generally satisfactory. All water for battery use should be kept in clean, covered vessels of glass, china, earthenware, rubber or lead. In cold weather add water only immediately before running the engine so that the charging will mix the water and electrolyte, and avoid freezing. If, for any reason, it is necessary to add acid, the battery should be taken to an authorized Service Station.

_What care should be given the Filling Plugs and Connections?_
_Answer No. 136_

Keep the filling plugs and connections tight and the top of the battery clean. Wiping the battery with a rag moistened with ammonia will counteract the effect of any of the solution which may be on the outside of the battery. A coating of heavy oil or vaseline will protect the connectors from corrosion. Keep the battery firmly secured in position. If clamps are loose, the battery will shift about in the compartment and result in loose connections, broken cells and other trouble. If repairs are necessary or if the car is to be laid up for the winter, take the battery to a skilled service man for proper attention and storage. Do not entrust the battery to inexperienced or unskilled hands.

Summary of Engine Troubles and Their Causes

ENGINE FAILS TO START

1. Gas mixture too lean.

2. Water in gasoline.

3. Vibrators adjusted too close.

4. Water or congealed oil in commutator.

5. Magneto contact point (in trans. cover) obstructed with foreign matter.

6. Gasoline supply shut off.

7. Carburetor frozen (in zero weather).

8. Water frozen in gasoline tank sediment bulb.

9. Coil switch off.

ENGINE LACKS POWER--RUNS IRREGULARLY

At Low Speeds.

1. Poor compression--account leaky valves.

2. Gas mixture too rich or too lean.

3. Spark plugs dirty.

4. Coil vibrator improperly adjusted.

5. Air leak in intake manifold.

6. Weak exhaust valve spring.

7. Too great clearance between valve stem and push rod.

8. Too close gap between spark plug points.

At High Speeds.

1. Commutator contact imperfect.

2. Weak valve spring.

3. Too much gap in spark plug.

4. Imperfect gas mixture.

5. Vibrator points dirty or burned.

ENGINE STOPS SUDDENLY

1. Gasoline tank empty.

2. Water in gasoline.

3. Flooded carburetor.

4. Dirt in carburetor or feed pipe.

5. Magneto wire loose at either terminal.

6. Magneto contact point obstructed.

7. Overheated--account lack of oil or water.

8. Gas mixture too lean.

ENGINE OVERHEATS

1. Lack of water.

2. Lack of oil.

3. Fan belt torn, loose or slipping.

4. Carbon deposit in combustion chamber.

5. Spark retarded too far.

6. Gas mixture too rich.

7. Water circulation retarded by sediment in radiator.

8. Dirty spark plugs.

ENGINE KNOCKS

1. Carbon deposit on piston heads.

2. Loose connecting rod bearing.

3. Loose crank shaft bearing.

4. Spark advanced too far.

5. Engine overheated.

Index

CARE OF TIRES Page

Care of Inner Tubes 48
Casings--How Repaired 48
How to Remove Tires 48
Repair Puncture 49

COOLING SYSTEM

Causes of Overheating 17
Purpose 17
Radiator Care in Winter 19
Repairing Radiator 19
What to Do When Overheated 17

ENGINE

Carbon--How Removed 14
Connecting Rod and Bearings 15
Engine Fails to Start 61
Engine Lacks Power--Runs Irregularly 61
Engine Stops Suddenly 61
Engine Overheats 61
Engine Knocks 61
Knocking--Causes 14
Main Bearing--How Adjusted 16
Piston 9
Power Plant--How Removed 15
Valves 9

GASOLINE SYSTEM

Carburetor--How to Adjust 21
Carburetor--How Controlled 21
Carburetor--Trouble 22
Carburetor--How it Works 21

IGNITION SYSTEM

Coils 25
Commutator--Its Purpose 26
Magneto 25
Magneto Trouble 29
Spark Plugs 20
Where to Look for Trouble 27

LUBRICATING SYSTEM

How it Differs from Others 45
Kind of Oil to Use 45
To Fill "Dope" Cups 45

MAINTENANCE

Care of Top 50
Storing Cars 50
To Keep Car Clean 50

MUFFLER

What It Is For 39
How to Disconnect 39

OPERATION

Adjustments--What to Do 5
Gasoline 3
Getting Ready to Start 3
Hand Lever 6
Oiling 3
Slow Speed, Brake and Reverse 6
Spark--How Controlled 7
Speed--How Controlled 7
Starting 5
Starting in Cold Weather 6

REAR AXLE

Differential Gear--How Removed 37
Rear Axle--How to Remove Parts 37
Universal Joint--To Disconnect 37

RUNNING GEAR

About Wheels 41
Care of Springs 43
Cups--How Installed 41
Its Care 40
Lubricating the Bearings 43
Remove Front Axle 40
Roller Bearings--How Installed 43
Steering Apparatus 44
Wheels 41

TRANSMISSION

Bands 33
Clutch 31
Planetary Transmission--What Is It 31
Transmission--How Assembled 33

Model T Truck

Worm, How Removed 51
Lubricating the Differential 51

The Ford Starting and Lighting System

Type of System 55
The Starting Motor--What if it Fails to Act 55
Oiling the Starter and Generator 57
The Starter--How Removed 58
The Bendix Drive--How Assembled to Starting Motor 58
The Generator--How Removed 58
The Battery--Repairing and Recharging 59

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE

-Obvious print and punctuation errors fixed.

-A Table of Contents was not in the original work; one has been produced and added by Transcriber.

End of Project Gutenberg's Ford Manual (1919), by Ford Motor Company