Chapter LXVIII

Something of this description, though perhaps not so pronounced, is always going forward at Land’s End in the tourist season. Land’s End is effectually vulgarised, and despite Kingsley’s verses, it is impossible to come to it in any other than a scoffing spirit. Read of Land’s End, and retain the majestic ideal conjured up by the name of it. Visit the place, and you find nothing but sordid surroundings.

_We_ visited, on another day of happier auspices, Carn Kenidjack and Cape Cornwall,--those grand and lonely bulwarks of the land,--and returned by way of the little township of Saint Just-in-Penwith to Penzance, regaining by this unfrequented route something of the lost romance which had lured us to take this alliterative trip from Paddington to Penzance.

It was now late in the season: cold winds and short days came on apace, with rains that drove the tourists home. We, too, packed our knapsacks for the last time, and presently were whirled up to Paddington and London streets in the Cornishman express.

INDEX

Abbotsbury, 91, 93.

---- Swannery, 96.

Abbot’s Worthy, 40.

Alphington, 112.

Alverton, 252–5.

Anstey’s Cove, 139, 142.

Antony, 187.

Ashe, 105.

Avon Water, 74.

Axe, River, 101, 107.

Axminster, 101.

Axmouth, 107.

Babbacombe, 137, 139.

Barrepper, 249.

Bartinney Hill, 263.

Basingstoke, 35.

Berry Pomeroy, 142, 147.

Blackpool Valley, 155, 164.

Blagdon, 146.

Bolt Head, 175, 177.

Boulter’s Lock, 22.

Bournemouth. 76.

Bray, 21.

Bridport, 96.

Broadlands, 68.

Brockenhurst, 72.

Cadnam, 69.

Camborne, 247.

Carews, the, 187–226.

Carew, Richard, 188, 191, 220.

Carn Brea, 245.

Carnhell Green, 250.

Cam Kenidjack, 264, 269.

Castledour, 220.

Chacewater, 239–40.

Chapel Carn Brê, 263.

Charleton, 165.

Charmouth, 99.

Chertsey, 17.

Chideock, 97.

Chillington, 165.

Christchurch, 74.

Clieveden, 22.

Cockwood Creek, 121.

Cookham, 23.

Coppithorne, 68.

Corfe, 84–6.

Cornwall, 184.

---- Cape, 260–4, 269.

Courtenays, the, 119–21

Crafthole, 192.

Crowz-an-Wra, 263.

Cuddan Point, 260.

Dart, River, 153–61.

Dartmouth, 153–74.

Dawlish, 123.

Deadman’s Head, 230.

Devon, 101, 131.

Devonport, 155, 181.

Dittisham, 159.

Dodbrooke, 165.

Dolcoath, 247.

Dorsetshire, 95.

Downderry, 192.

Drakes, the, 106, 180, 185.

East Looe, 155, 193–5.

East Lulworth, 88.

Eton College, 17.

Exe, River, 113, 118.

Exeter City, 108.

---- Cathedral, 111, 119.

---- Guildhall, 109.

Exminster, 115, 118.

Exmouth, 121, 154.

---- Viscount, 256.

Fal, River, 235.

Filleigh, 250.

First and Last Inn, 264.

Ford, 186.

Fowey, 155, 215.

George III., 91.

Gorran, 229.

Gorran Haven, 229.

Gwinear, 250.

Ham, 10.

---- House, 13.

Hambledon, 27.

Hamoaze, the, 154, 182, 187.

Hampshire, 35, 39.

Headbourne Worthy, 57.

Henley, 30.

Hennerton Backwater, 33.

Holmbush, 222.

Holy Ghost Chapel, 37.

Hunter’s Lodge Inn, 101.

Hurley, 26.

Itchen, River, 36.

Kennet, River, 34.

Kingsbridge, 163, 164.

Kingston, 14.

Kingswear, 154, 156, 162.

King’s Worthy, 40.

“Labrador,” 135.

Lainston, 58.

Laira Bridge, 186.

Lamorna, 260.

Lander, 237.

Land’s End, 254, 260, 264.

Langstone Point, 122, 123.

Lanteglos-juxta-Fowey, 214.

Lee Mount, 124.

Lew Trenchard, 137.

Logan Rock, 255, 259.

Longships Lighthouse, 264.

Looe, East, 155, 193–5.

---- River, 196.

---- West, 155.

Ludgvan, 255.

Lulworth Castle, 88.

---- East, 88.

Lyndhurst, 70.

Lynher River, 187.

Maidenhead, 22.

Marazion, 251, 259.

Marsh Lock, 33.

Martyr Worthy, 40.

Marychurch, 139, 160.

Medmenham Abbey, 26.

Melcombe Regis, 91.

Mevagissey, 225, 228.

Micheldever, 38.

Monmouth, Duke of, 95, 102.

Morecombelake, 99.

Morice Town, 186.

Mount Charles, 222.

---- Edgcumbe, 186.

---- Pleasant, 122.

Mount’s Bay, 251.

Mousehole, 255.

Musbury, 106.

New Forest, 68.

Newlyn, 255–60.

North Haven, 82.

---- Lew, 138.

Osmington, 89.

Paignton, 141, 144.

Palmerston, Viscount, 68.

Par, 219, 222.

Pellew, Edward, 256.

Pengersick, 260.

Penzance, 249, 251, 252, 266.

Perranuthno, 260.

Peter Pindar, 165.

Petersham, 9.

Phillack, 250.

Philleigh, 235.

Plymouth, 179, 253.

---- Guildhall, 187.

---- Hoe, 179, 186.

---- Sound, 174, 179.

Pokesdown, 76.

Polperro, 207.

Polruan, 155, 215.

Pool, 246.

Poole, 247.

---- Harbour, 82, 83.

Porthmellin, 229.

Port Holland, 232.

Portland Bill, 89, 95.

Portlemouth, 154, 172.

Powderham, 119.

Preston, 90.

Purbeck Hills, 88, 95.

---- Isle of, 83.

Quakers’ Burial-Ground, 263.

Reading, 34.

Redruth, 240, 249.

Regatta Island, 28.

Richmond, 5.

Roebuck Hill, 57.

Romsey, 66.

Rougemont Castle, 109, 110.

Ruan Creek, 235.

St. Aubyns, the, 257.

St. Austell, 221, 223, 251.

St. Blazey, 251.

St. Budeaux, 185.

St. Buryan, 251, 262.

St. Catherine’s Hill, Abbotsbury, 94.

St. Catherine’s Hill, Winchester, 36, 55, 56.

St. Cleer, 251.

St. Day, 240.

St. Erth, 251.

St. Ives, 255.

St. Just-in-Penwith, 269.

St. Levan, 260.

St. Lo, 232.

St. Mellion, 251.

St. Michael Caerhayes, 230.

St. Michael’s Mount, 251, 257.

St. Ruan, 251.

St. Sennen, 251, 263.

St. Thomas, 112.

Salcombe, 154, 171.

---- River, 164, 171.

Saltash, 181, 184.

Scilly, 256.

Screasdon Fort, 192.

Seaton, 107.

Shaldon, 131, 154.

Shepperton, 16.

Sherborne St. John, 36.

Slapton Sands, 164.

Sonning, 34.

Southborough-on-Sea, 76.

South Haven, 82.

Sparsholt, 58.

Starcross, 120, 154.

Stoke Damerel, 186.

---- Fleming, 155, 163.

Stokenham, 165.

Stonehouse, 181.

Studland, 82.

Swanage, 83.

Tamar, River, 182.

Taplow, 21.

Teign, River, 130.

Teignmouth, 112, 122, 123, 127, 154.

Thames, River, 15.

Tor Bay, 140.

Torcross, 164.

Torpoint, 154, 183, 186.

Torquay, 133, 135, 139, 140, 160.

Totnes, 149.

Treffrys, the, 216.

Tregantle Fort, 192.

Trelissick, 236.

Trematon Castle, 187.

Treworlas, 235.

Truro Cathedral, 237.

---- City, 235, 236, 239, 249, 255.

Turf, 119.

Tywardreath Bay, 222.

Veryan, 229–31, 233.

Wargrave, 33.

Warren, the, 122.

Watcombe, 137, 139.

Weeke, 57.

West Bay, 96.

---- Looe, 155.

Weymouth, 90.

White, Gilbert, 37.

Whitesand Bay, 192.

William III., 143.

Winchester Cathedral, 44.

---- City, 36, 41.

---- College, 49, 54.

Windsor Castle, 19.

Wolcot, Dr. John, 165.

Wootton, 74.

Worthies, the, 40.

Wyke, 57.

Wykeham, William of, 49.

THE END.

PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE, HANSON AND CO.
EDINBURGH AND LONDON.

FOOTNOTES

[1] A recipe strongly in favour with the artistic and literary world.

[2] June 11th. The apparent error arises through March 25th being at that time still occasionally considered as New Year’s Day.

[3] We have been told lately that it was not Napoleon but an American orator named Adams who first applied this epithet to us. If this is true, it comes with an additional bad grace, for whatever right a Frenchman has to such a sneer, certainly no American can claim it.

[4] Pindar.

[5] Than satirical pamphlets.

[6]
Underneath
Lieth the Body of Robert
Comonly Called Bone Phillip
who died July 27^{th} 1793
Aged 65 Years,

At whose request The following lines are here inserted.

Here lie I at the Chancel door,
Here lie I because I’m poor
The forther in the more you’ll pay
Here lie I as warm as they

[7] _N.B._--Not responsible for pronunciation of the English language.

[8] I’m afraid your rhymes, Mr. Poet, are somewhat indiscreet.

[9] See how sadly the exigencies of rhyme fetter the poet: the palate and not the lip give the sense of taste.

[10] _Anglice_, farm-yards.

[11] This seems a peculiarly modern touch.

[12] Fill, dear reader, these blanks _à discrétion_.

[13] Corruption also of Phillis.

Transcriber’s Notes

Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a predominant preference was found in the original book; otherwise they were not changed.

Simple typographical errors were corrected; unbalanced quotation marks were remedied.

Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned between paragraphs and outside quotations.

The original List of Illustrations (LoI) distinguished between full-page illustrations that “faced” pages, and mid-page illustrations that were “on” pages. This eBook does not make that distinction. In versions that support hyperlinks, the links lead to the actual illustrations, regardless of where they appear.

Transcriber used the List of Illustrations to add captions to illustrations lacking them, and removed the printer’s notes regarding the pages to which some illustrations should be facing. The captionless illustrations near the beginning of the book are decorative.

The index was not checked for proper alphabetization or correct page references.

Page 163: The text on the mural was printed in Black Letter.

Page 185: The symbol before “War Office” is an up-arrow.

Page 191: The text taken from the chancel was printed in Black Letter.

The quotation beginning on page 205 was printed in Black Letter.

Page 217: There is a macron above the ‘m’ in the word “Comaund”.

Page 218: “and waits are lingering” may be a misprint for “waifs”.

End of Project Gutenberg's From Paddington to Penzance, by Charles G. Harper