Chapter I: Preface

The steady progress of Russian conquest in Turkistan during the past half-century, and, during late years, the rapid advance of her frontiers in the direction of India, have raised the States of Central Asia to a position of importance in the eyes of European politicians higher than they ever before occupied.

The accounts published from time to time by venturesome travellers in those regions have informed us of the barbarism and bigotry of their peoples—of the anarchy and weakness of their Governments—and of the growing decay and approaching dissolution of the polity that holds them together by the bonds of a common religion and common interest. And now the military operations against Khiva at present in course of prosecution by Russia, whilst opening up that country to the influences of European civilisation, promise to unfold to that power a field of enterprise that must, I believe, culminate in her paramount ascendancy over all the region draining to the valley of the Oxus. This is a prospect full of the weightiest moment to ourselves in India, and one that furnishes matter for the gravest consideration of our statesmen. Much has been already written on this subject from different points of view, and much remains to be written; and doubtless the public journals will keep alive the discussion of the question. But let us be careful lest, while straining at the gnat of Yárkand, we swallow the camel of Herat.

Since the region intervening between the Asiatic possessions of Russia and England now claims the attention of the several Governments concerned, and is by the current of progressing events brought prominently before the notice of the politicians of Europe generally, any recent information regarding these countries cannot fail to prove of interest to the general reader. With this conviction, therefore, I venture to set before the public an account of the incidents and experiences of a journey made across this region during last year—from the Indus to the Tigris.

In explanation of all shortcomings as to matter and defects as to style, I have to remind the reader that the narrative has been written at odd hours, between the duties of an onerous charge in the principal frontier station of India, without leisure for generalisation, or opportunity for reference to authorities.

Further, I am constrained by the force of circumstances to commit my manuscript to the care of the publisher, without the advantage of correcting the proof-sheets in their passage through the press.

H. W. B.

PESHAWAR, _18th April 1873_.

CONTENTS.

PAGES

INTRODUCTION.

Appointment of Mission to Sistan and Tehran—Influence of
British and Russian civilisation—Historical Associations—The
“sick man” of Asia—Physical features of the region
traversed—Climate and inhabitants 1-17

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Multán—The Chenáb and the Indus—_Tria juncta in
uno_—Interesting fact for naturalists—Shikárpúr—Jacobabad—A
plundered _káfila_—Afghan effrontery—Interesting
rencontre—Barshori—Sinjarani—Odhána—False
alarm—Gandáva—Kotra—Disorderly baggage ponies—Pír
Chhatta—Muhammadan credulity 18-39

CHAPTER II.

The Míloh Pass—Nah-langa Tangí—The Khánzai Brahoe—Pír
Lákha—The Pír and the dragon—Scene of assassination of Sherdil
Khán—Khozdár—Roadside memorials—The Brahoe—Brahoe gratitude—The
Záwah defile—Scanty supplies 40-71

CHAPTER III.

Súráb to Calát—Reception by the Khán—The Court of
Calát—Description of Calát—Mundi Hájí—An efficacious charm—Our
hostess and the mirror—Mastung—Military honours—Nishpá
Pass—Shál Kot—Native custom 72-100

CHAPTER IV.

The Kákarrs—The Náib and the Malik—The Afghan Commissioner—The
Peshín valley—The Tarins—A numerous relationship—Kojak
Pass—Topographical survey—Barghanah Pass—Sháh Ahmad,
Durrani—Wool exports—Sardár Mír Afzal Khán—Afghan chivalry—A
startling object—American clocks 101-132

CHAPTER V.

Kandahar—Afghan cookery—Visit to a gold-mine—Process of
extraction—Antique porphyry bowl—City of Kandahar—Mausoleum
of Ahmad Sháh—Discontent of the inhabitants—Oppression of the
Government—Pyrotechnical display—Travellers’ notes—The Saggid’s
experience—Departure—Sardár Núr Muhammad Khán—Kandahar to
Ballakhan 133-166

CHAPTER VI.

Salt-pits—The Saggid on the English press—Búst—Ancient
ruins—The Argandáb—Extensive jangal—Hazárjuft—Afghan
stolidity—The Helmand—Khanishín—Abdullah Khán—Colonel Táj
Muhammad 167-202

CHAPTER VII.

Rúdbár—The Garmsel—Ján Beg—Change of post-route—The plain of
Sistan—An Afghan welcome—Sardár Ibráhím Khán, the murderer
of Dr Forbes—Sardár Ahmad Khán and Mardán Khán—Sharíf Khán—A
primitive ferry—Nasírabad—Windmills 203-236

CHAPTER VIII.

Meeting with Sir F. Goldsmid—Banjár—Ruins of Pesháwarán—History
of Sistan—Its limits—Watershed—Language 237-271

CHAPTER IX.

Kol Márút—Mythical inscription—Khyrabad—Lásh—News
of Lord Mayo’s death—Calá Koh—Singular acoustic
phenomenon—Duroh—Husenabad—The Sarbesha plateau—Birjand—Trade
and products—District of Gháyn—Historical sketch 272-308

CHAPTER X.

Birjand to Ghíbk—Depopulation of inhabitants—Sihdih—Persian
rights of perquisite—Gháyn—The Hájí’s advice—Change of
route—A noisy dispute—Precautions against the Turkmans—Dashtí
Pyáz—A harmless fright—Bijistan—Widespread suffering—Persian
veracity—Persian cruelty 309-357

CHAPTER XI.

Mashhad—Procession through the city—Interviews with the
Prince-Governor—Gratifying reception—Description of the
city—Its industry and trade—Plain of Mashhad—District of
Nishabor—Untrustworthiness of Persians—Sabzwár—An old
institution—Pilgrims—Motley spectacle—Shahrúd—An old
acquaintance 358-397

CHAPTER XII.

Treatment of Persian soldiers—Lásjird—Our
Mirakhor—His _savoir faire_—The “Portals of
delight”—Tehran—Destitution of the inhabitants—Arrangements
for return—Shukrullah Beg—A retrospect—Interview with the
Governor of Kirmánshah—Effects of the famine—Frightful
scenes—Hamadán—Kangawár—Besitun—Kirmánshah 398-439

CHAPTER XIII.

An enormous caravan—The Khaleva
tribe—Karriud—Zuháb—Difficulties as to passport and
escort—Their removal—Marauding Khaleva—Turko-Persian
frontier—Quarantine—Sad disappointment—Bukhariot pilgrims—Their
opinion of Russian influence in Central Asia—Flight of
locusts—A captive chief—The hermit and his disciple—Attack by
Arab robbers—Their repulse—Baghdad—Down the Tigris 440-472

APPENDIX.

A.—SYNOPTICAL GRAMMAR AND VOCABULARY OF THE BRAHOE LANGUAGE 473-493

B.—RECORD OF METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AND ALTITUDES ON THE
MARCH FROM THE INDUS TO THE TIGRIS, THROUGH BALOCHISTAN,
AFGHANISTAN, SISTAN, KHORASSAN, AND IRAN 494-496

FROM THE INDUS TO THE TIGRIS.