Chapter XXVII: Dives Callaecia (1)

The dignity of human beings--Mineral wealth of Galicia--Gold in the
sand--Ancient authorities--Ireland and Spanish gold--Visigothic
coins--Galicia’s secret--Turned up by the plough--Medicinal
springs--Mineral waters--Climate never extreme--The baths at
Lugo--Borrow’s account--An island hydropathic establishment--Hot
springs--Galicia as a health resort--Mondariz--Women in the
fields--Amazons--Martial zeal--Wellington and the Gallegan
soldiers--“The inimitable Gallegans”--Another word about their
reputed stupidity--Great men--Making a list--Fare thee well

“Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses,” said Samuel Johnson, “whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of human beings.” We cannot study the past of a spot so full of human interest as Galicia without some gain; we cannot study the physical beauties of the Spanish Switzerland without being transported for a time to those mountains and valleys that the Gallegans love so passionately, to those limpid streams and those beautiful rias. The mind needs change of air just as the body, and a few hours spent in that distant corner of Spain will, I trust, have been as refreshing to the mind of the reader as a few months spent in travelling and studying them were to the writer of this volume.

I have not exhausted my subject; it is too wide to be exhausted in a work six times the size of the present work. I have touched on too many points of interest to be able to do full justice to any: history, both ancient and mediæval, geography, architecture, archæology, natural history, ethnography, ethnology, climatology, literature, and many other branches of knowledge have had their share of my attention; yet, as I glance through what I have written, I am painfully conscious of how much has been omitted. I intended, amongst other things, to add a long chapter on the mineral wealth of Galicia, and another on the customs of the Gallegan peasants; but time and space fail me. With regard, however, to the mineral wealth of the country, to the character of its women, to the martial spirit of its men, and to the reputed stupidity of the Gallegans, I should like to add a few words to what has already been said.

The greater part of the mineral wealth of Galicia has never been exploited since the days of the Romans. From the train window, as I was passing through the province of Lugo, I saw the place where the Romans diverted the course of a Gallegan river that they might more easily attain the gold which lay hidden below its flowing waters. Morales--an eye-witness in the reign of Philip II.--stated that the Miño had gold in its sand, and that the bishop of Tuy showed him a nugget of purest gold as large as a chick-pea, and that the Count of Monterrey had let a part of this river which flowed through his estate for twenty ducados a year to people who searched for gold in its sand.

Both Justin and Silius Italicus mention the rich veins of gold in Gallegan soil. Justin speaks also of the abundance of lead, copper, and iron. Molina mentions the abundance of tin that in his day was extracted annually from Gallegan mines, and he adds in a note that gold-mines were once worked there. I have already alluded to a tradition current in Ireland, that the ancient Irish obtained their gold from Spain, and it is more than probable that the torques in the Dublin Museum, as well as those I have described, were made of Gallegan gold.

It is an interesting fact that nearly all the Visigothic coins that have been found are pure gold; this is another indication that gold was once plentiful in Galicia. Even in our day, poor women can earn three and four pesetas a day by sifting sand of the river Sil for gold. I have described the golden torques in Señor Cicerone’s museum--all of massive gold--and these we know were found buried in various spots in Galicia. Whence came the gold of which these were made? “This,” says Señor Villa-Amil, “is Galicia’s secret.” At present no one knows the whereabouts of any gold-mine in Galicia, but that is no proof that gold is not there.

Silius Italicus said that this province was so rich in veins of gold that nuggets of the precious metal were often turned up by the plough, and it was this fact which led him to speak of Galicia as _Dives Callaecia_.

Galicia is rich in medicinal springs, and her waters have been used to cure diseases from time immemorial. I have mentioned the remains of Roman baths (_thermæ_) at Bande (near Celanova) and at Lugo. It was from the Greeks that the Romans learned the value of medicinal waters, and they made wide use of them until the declining days of their greatness, when bathing came to be looked on as injurious and effeminate, and the old bathing establishments were allowed to go to ruin. In the ninth century, under Charlemagne, baths came once more into fashion, and new ones were established. In the fifteenth century a good deal was written about the curative powers of mineral waters, especially in Spain. Galicia has more of these springs than almost any part of Spain, and her climate is the most temperate: the sea, bounding her on two sides, modifies the heat of summer, so that in the hottest months the thermometer never stands higher than 20° _Reamur_; in the months of December, January, and February it does not often go below five and six degrees. As for the geological formation of the ground, it consists of layers of granite and gneiss for the most part, and of gneiss and mica in the neighbourhood of Coruña, Ferrol, and Betanzos; round Santiago, Sobrado, and Mellid there are found remarkable groups of amphibiolite and diorite, while serpentine (of a greenish colour) is also abundant. Slate is found in many varieties, and near Mondoñedo there are fossilised shells, including petrified bivalves. Quartz is very frequent. The alluvial soil near the rivers in the low-lying valleys is covered with water in winter.

Lugo has sulphur springs on the banks of the Miño; the bathing establishment is built with a patio and galleries round four separate springs, and there is hotel accommodation for a large number of visitors; these baths are considered to be the best in Galicia. Borrow, who visited them in 1836, wrote that they were “built over warm springs that flow into the river. Notwithstanding their ruinous condition, they were crowded with sick.... The patients exhibited a strange spectacle, as, wrapped in flannel gowns much resembling shrouds, they lay immersed in the tepid waters amongst disjointed stones and overhung with steam and reek.” The water smells strongly of sulphur, and on coming in contact with the air acquires a milky appearance. Its iodine has wonderfully healing properties in cases of scrofula, glandular swellings, and dyspepsia, also in cases of muscular rheumatism. As I have said elsewhere, Pliny wrote about these baths, and part of the Roman buildings may still be seen.

Another place where there are baths is Carballo, in the province of Coruña; here the older springs are _sulfuro-sodico_, and the new _sulfuro-calcico_, although all are close together. On the little island of Toja, near Villagarcia, there are some mineral springs which are now being exploited by a company; they are visited by sufferers from skin diseases, but chiefly during the month of July. The season only lasts a few weeks, and during that period a doctor resides on the island and superintends the bathing establishment. At Caldas de Reyes, fifteen kilometres from Pontevedra, there are also hot sulphur springs, and I have already spoken at length of the Hot Springs at Orense. Galicia has innumerable iron springs. In 1878, Señor Varela Paga published tables showing that the waters of Galicia were richer by far in medicinal properties than the best of those in France, and he added that the mineral springs of this province were, without doubt, of immense importance, and that the two things wanting to place them amongst the most renowned curative resorts in Europe were good ways of communication and good hydropathic establishments.

The most modern of all the hydropathic establishments in Galicia is that of Mondariz, situated a few miles to the south of Pontevedra in the valley of Mondariz. Patients go there to drink the waters of two widely renowned springs called respectively Gandara and Troncoso; their waters are considered particularly beneficial in cases of dyspepsia (now looked upon rather as a symptom than a disease) and other stomach troubles.[306] The establishment for the reception of guests is very large, and the prices are in proportion to its grandeur. Lady visitors are requested to wear no hats except when attending Mass. The scenery of the surrounding mountains and valleys is very beautiful, and there are some exquisite drives, one being to Castello Mos, the mediæval castle which I have described in my chapter on Pontevedra.

And now a last word about the Gallegan women. I have said that the women of Galicia work in the fields like men, and that most of the agricultural labour is necessarily performed by them, seeing that the men emigrate in such numbers. It is interesting in this connection to note that Justin wrote of the women of ancient Galicia, as not only having the care of all domestic matters, but also cultivating the fields while their men-folk gave themselves to the pursuits of war. “Their travail,” says Ford, “was not simply agricultural, for, according to Strabo (III. 250), they merely stepped aside out of the furrows to be brought to bed, if such a term may be used, returning back to their other labours just as if they had only laid an egg. The men were worthy of such Amazons.” But Ford overlooked the fact that it was of the people of Galicia that Strabo was writing when he said that it was customary for the husband to retire to his bed for a short period as soon as his child was born. Aguiar draws attention to this extraordinary practice in his History of Galicia. This writer also remarks that the proverb so common all over Spain, to the effect that he who is unfortunate and needs assistance should “seek his Gallegan mother,” was another indication of the Celtic origin of the Gallegans, the Celts having always held their women in honour.[307]

The martial zeal of the men of ancient Galicia is constantly referred to by historians: they were a foe against whom both Julius Cæsar and D. Brutus were proud to have waged war; and later, in the days of the Saracen invasion, they were the only Spaniards that the Moors could not conquer. And what about their courage and endurance in modern times? What did the Duke of Wellington think of the fighting qualities of the Gallegans who fought under his banner against the French invaders? So pleased was the Iron Duke with his Gallegan soldiers, that before leaving the country he issued a proclamation in honour of the fourth Spanish army:--

“Warriors of the civilised world! Learn heroism from the individuals of the fourth army, which it has been my good fortune to lead into the field. Every one of its soldiers has merited more justly than myself the command that I hold.... Strive all of you to imitate the inimitable Gallegans. Let their intrepidity be remembered to the end of the world, for it has never been surpassed....”

The fourth army was composed of Gallegans and Asturians, each of which received their separate meed of praise from the Duke. This proclamation was issued at Lesata, and bears the date September 4, 1813.

And now a final word about the reputed stupidity of the Gallegans. Galicia has from time immemorial produced more great intellects, more literary men, and more poets, than any other province in the Peninsula. Not only can Galicia boast of having a first Golden Age and a second Golden Age, but she can also produce a long list of glorious names reaching right up to the present day. I have mentioned a few of these, but space has not allowed me to refer to more than a few. I have said nothing of Saavedra, or of Martin Garcia Sarmiento, both born in Pontevedra; of that famous woman, Maria Francisca de Isla y Lozada, born in Santiago, who was called by Bossuet “the pearl of Galicia”; of the seventeen eminent cardinals who were natives of Galicia; and of the innumerable other illustrious sons whom Galicia has given to Spain. Señor Cabeza Leon, professor of International Law at Santiago University--whose kind assistance in connection with my research work has been invaluable--tells me that he has already collected and verified the names of more than a thousand famous Spaniards who came from Galicia.

And how does Galicia stand to-day? I can answer without hesitation that she stands well to the front. A large proportion of the intellects that are governing Spain from Madrid at the present moment have come from this province. Two of Spain’s greatest living archæologists, Villa-Amil y Castro and Lopez Ferreiro, are sons of Galicia; and “the best authoress that Spain has produced during the present century,”[308] Doña Emilia Pardo Bazán, is Galicia’s daughter. So much for the stupidity of the Gallegans.

* * * * *

Fare thee well, Galicia! Thou art a land where railways have preceded roads, and where motor-cars have arrived before trains; thou art a land whose peasants are oppressed by bad government, usury, and their own crass ignorance; thou art a land where glorious monuments of mediæval architecture are left to fall into melancholy ruin and decay, when they should be guarded amongst the most precious treasures of the nation, a book in which the Spanish youth might read and learn of the achievements and aspirations of their ancestors; thou art a land that for the wonderful richness of thy soil and the exuberance of thy vegetation might be made the Garden of Europe. All these thou art, and more; yet not only art thou practically unknown to the rest of the world, but thou art forgotten even by Spain: thy own Peninsula is almost unconscious of thy existence, though thou art the spot which has provided her with her most sacred traditions, her poetry, her _trovadors_, and her Patron Saint. Thy beautiful mountains, thy pine-clad peaks, thy waterfalls, thy torrents and thy rias, thy smiling valleys and thy mossy ravines, thy terraced slopes and thy limpid streamlets, are separated from the rest of Europe by the waters of the River of Oblivion.

It may be that some of the prominent men who are thy children would hesitate to own that thou hadst given them birth; but thy simple peasants, when they cross the wide seas to seek their fortune in a distant land, carry their passionate love for Galicia to those far-off shores, and sometimes, sometimes--they die of the anguish that is called homesickness.

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INDEX

Aarlberg Pass, 333

Abderrahmen I., mosque of, 83

Acorns as food, 212

Acuña, _Historiæ_ quoted, 301-2

Adozno, 332

Aecius, Sueve, 28-29

Africanus, Scipio, 13

Agriculture--
Agricultural Syndicate of Coruña, 172;
need for knowledge, 179;
the Gallegan plough, 212-13;
carts, 213;
fields of Noya, 240-41

Aguiar, 2-3, 9-10, 178, 195;
on Gallegan dulness, 178

Aguilar y Torrea, Don Antonio, 270

Aimerico, 69

Alanes, 29

Alba River, 255

Alcala de Henares, 265 _note_

Aldrede, _quoted_, 54 _note_

Alexander III., Pope, 77

Alexander IV., Pope, 67

Alfonso I., 301

Alfonso II., _el Casto_, 62, 271

Alfonso VI., 94, 101, 279

Alfonso VII., 124, 195

Alfonso VIII., 317, 318

Alfonso X., _el Sabio_--
Cantigas of, 44-46, 52, 54-57, 205;
will of, 50

Alfonso of Portugal, 282

Alfred and Orosius, 30-33

Alhambra, the, 328

Allariz, church of, Santiago, 295;
mentioned by Ptolemy, 295-96

Almanzor, 42-43, 200

Alonso, Sr. Benito F., _quoted_, 26, 76, 290 and _note_

Altamira, castle of, 232-33

Alvarez, Jacome, 150

Alvarez, Sr. Eugenie, 293

Ambia, family of, 296

Ambrose, St., 39

America, South--
Immigration into, 174-76, 247 and _note_;
herds of, 214;
rock-drawings, 274

Amiens Cathedral, 98 _note_, 109;
statues, 122

Amil, Villa-, 6, 7, 136

Anastasius the Librarian, _quoted_, 75-76

Ancares, Sierra de, 18

Ancient Britons, poetry of the, 185

Andalusia, 6;
socialism, 175, 184;
education, 178;
mule-breeding, 180;
students of, 192

Anderson, Jos., 68

Andrade, family of, 314

Andrade, Fernán Peréz de, Sarcophagus, 312

Andrew, Bishop, 226

Angeles, Juan de, 293

Ansurio, Bishop, Sarcophagus, 337

Antealtares, convent of, 104

Antela, lake of, 20

Antelo, Andreo, 103

Antiquarians of Scotland Society, 68, 274-75

Antoninus, 223, 290

Apacius, 219

Aquada, 321

Aquasantas, 296

Aquitaine, trouvadores of, 55

Arabs in Galicia, 301

Aragon, architecture of, 81

Arbo, 286

Arcade, 269

Arcadius, 15, 31

Arch, the horseshoe, 82-84, 331;
circular, 84-85

Archæological monuments of Galicia, 42

Archæological Museum, Santiago, 205

Archæological Society of Orense, 26;
of Pontevedra, 262, 274

Architecture of Galicia, 78-93
Mudejar, 80-81, 331;
Byzantine, 82;
_Spanish_--the horseshoe arch, 82-84, 331;
the circular arch, 84-85;
two streams of influence, 86-87;
the _Capital_--sculptured capitals, 126-135;
favourite subjects, 126;
plain, of English cathedrals, 126-27;
foliage, 127-28;
scalloped, 131;
Corbels, 238;
the rectangular apse, 284;
Gallegan-Gothic, 303;
Visigothic,332

Arellano, Ramirez de, 302

Arenas, the Crucifix of, 290

Arezzo, 6;
MSS of Etheria, 36

Argalo, 243

Argentina--
Development, 153;
emigration to, 174-75

Arianism in Galicia, 29, 84, 86, 294, 303

Armijo, Marquis de la Viga de, 268

Arosa, 219

Arosa, Ria de, 17, 254, 255

Arraduca, 295

Art, lay schools of thirteenth century, 129-30

Arteago, Señor, collection, 208

Artisans, corporations of, 81

Asclepiades, 10

Asia, Central, mud-ovens of, 241

Astorga, 294

Asturias, 17;
horses, 214;
bears, 215;
trade, 344

_Atatiar_, 349

Ataulf, 86

Augustines, the, 72

Augustus, S., 15, 31-32

Augustus, towers of, Padron, 230

Autun Cathedral, 114

Avalos, Gaspar, 255

Avitus I. and II., 39

Ayerbe, Marquesa de, her book, 271-272

Ayerbe, Marquis de, 271 _note_

Ayras, Juan, 53 _note_

_Babus_, the, 6

Bacchiarius, monk, 39

Balearic Isles, 170, 216

Ball, Robert, 207

Banda--
Church of Santa Comba, 329-32;
village, 332-33;
Roman baths, 353

Barbeito, Juan de, 256

Barca, Hamilcar, 13

Barcelona, 169-70, 192

Barrows, 6

Bartlett, Mr., 157 _note_

Barveron, Mount, 339-40

Basque language in Galicia, 4, 242 and _note_

Basques, the, 192

Baths, Roman, 331, 353;
medicinal, 353-55

Bayona, 255, 278;
_Colegiata_, 284;
the Assembly held, 292

Bazán, Emilia Pardo, 188 _note_, 357 and _note_

Bearny, Viscount de, 266

Bedoza, lectures, 193

Bellini, Mariano, 272

Benedict XIV., 284

Bentrazes, Palazio de, 325-26

Berceo, Gonzalo de, 44

Bergidensis, 34

Berigel, Archbishop, 235

Berlin, 278;
Ethnographical Museum, 273

Bermúdez, Cean, 138

Bermudo III., 195

Bernard, Archbishop, tomb, 149-50

Bernard, John H., 36 and _note_

Bernardo, 98

Berni, 98 _note_

Besada, Señor, 18

Betanzos--
Churches of, 88 _note_, 310-12;
history, 308-9;
the _Fiesta de Caneiros_, 309;
Bravio, 310;
Nuestia Señora del Caneiro, 310;
ancient caverns, 311;
church of Santiago, 311-12;
San Francisco, 312

_Bibalatarin_, 83

Bibilis, the, 22

Bibles, manuscript, 195

Bilbao, 218

Biscay, Bay of, 17, 153-54;
lampreys, 219

Blanco, Sr. Romero, 247

Boabdil, 205

Bætica, 15

Boissier, _quoted_, 40

Bokhara, synagogues of, 265

Bologna University, 90

Boneval, Bernal de, 53 _note_

Boniface VIII., 54

Borrow, George, 75;
translation of the Bible, 4;
on Sir John Moore, 157;
_quoted_, 176;
in Padron, 222;
on the Franciscan convent, Lugo, 306

Bosworth, Joseph, translation of _Orosius_, 30-31

_Botafumeiro_, 72-75

Boulders, rocking, 7

Bourgogne, sculptured foliage, 129

Braga, 1, 31, 39, 294, 296;
Church Council, 226, 301;
cathedral, 291

Braga, Theophilo, 3 and _note_ 2, 55

Brambach, W., 44

Bravio, 310

Brest, 154

Bretons, 8

Bridge of Pines, Granada, 83-85

Bridget, St., 69

_Briga_, the Celtic word, 152

Brigantium, 14

British Museum, 68

Brunelleschi, 90, 91

Brutus, Decimus, “Callaicus,” 8;
in Spain, 13-14, 20-21

Buckle, 78, 79

Buenos Ayres, 153

Bull-fights, 170, 252

Burgas, Las, 293

Burgos, 171, 266;
Cathedral, 93;
the Crucifix, 290

Byzantine Art, 81;
frescoes, 123

Cabbage, the, 348-49

Cabe, the, 334-35

Cadiz, 13;
Tower of Hercules, 162;
emigration, 177

Cæsar, Julius, in Spain, 2, 3, 7, 8, 10, 14-15;
in Britain, 32-33

Cæsar’s Bridge, 228

Cairuan Grand Mosque, 84-85

Calaicos, term, 9

Caldas de Reyes springs, 355

Cale, 9

Calixtus II., Codex of, 63-65, 73, 94, 96, 99 and _note_, 301

Calybe, the, 22

Calyphate, the, 43

Cambden, William, 11

Cambiadores, Hermandad de, 52

Cambre, 312-14

Camelli, Pedro, 343

_Campo Santo_, 161-62

Campo, Sr. E., 273

Campomanes, Count of, 179-80

Cana, Pay de, 53 _note_

Canadian Rockies, 319

Cangas, 277

Cano, Adolfo, 228

Canterbury Cathedral, capitals, 127;
sculpture, 131

_Capas de junco_, 203

Capilla de Las Animas, 198-99

Carballo baths, 354

Carboeiro, Monastery of, 195

Cardiff, trade with Galicia, 245, 344

Cardoso, Jorge, 28

Carlos III., 218

Carlsruhe, 299

Carmelite convent, Santiago, 205

Carmelites, 227

Carnac, J. H. Rivett, 273

Carnivals, 203

Carracedo, Cistercian monastery, 33

Carrara marble, 161

Carriarico, Sueve, 289, 294

Carril, 201;
oysters, 219

Carthaginians, the, 12, 13;
coins, 206

Cartwheels, singing, 213, 233, 241

Casa da Moura, 247

Casanova, Fernandez, 95, 96, 132

Casanova, Sofia, 184

Casares, Dr. Miguel Gil, 144

Casas y Novoa, Fernando de, 93, 105

Cassiterides, the, identification, 11-12, 278

Castelar, Emilio _quoted_, 185

Castille, education, 177;
language of, 188

Castillo de Mos, 268-73, 355

_Castro de la Rocha_, the, 223

Castro, Filippo de, portrait, 196;
bust, 234-35, 251

Castro, Juana de, 324

Castro, King, 203

Castro, Rosalia, nature of her poetry, 103, 182-83;
her life, 184;
_Follas Novas_, 184;
_Cantares Gallegas_, 184, 189;
Failde on, 184;
the harp with two strings, 185;
a short poem translated, 186;
burial, 187;
influence on the Gallegan language, 188;
the “chirrio,” 213;
the house where she died, 229

_Castros_, 6, 232-3

Catalina de Sandoval y Roja, 298-99

Catalina, Infanta, 73

Cataluña, 6

Catedral Vieja, the, 106, 132

Cathedrals, origin of, 89-90

Catherine of Aragon, 69

Catherine of Leon, 116

Cattle-breeding, 179-80

Cauca, town of, 4;
the term _Cauca_, 4-5

Caumont, influence, 78 and _note_

Cea, 319, 320, 324-25

Cebrero, hill of, 22;
hospital and church, 176-77;
wood of, 217

Celanova, 294, 325, 329;
Benedictine monastery, the drive to, 325-27;
carved stalls, 327;
sarcophagi, 327;
relics, 327-28;
the Eremita de San Miguel, 328-29

Celis, Juan de, 256

Celles Cathedral, 97

Celts in Galicia, 5-12, 244

Censers, swinging, 72-76

Censorius, Count, 29

Cerviño, Antonio, 178

Cesures, 228

Chain of St. James, 66

Champagne, Count, 52

Charcoal fires, 191-92

Chariño, Payo Gomez, 262-63

Charles III., 192, 315

Charles of Orleans, 52

Chartres Cathedral, 109;
windows, 115;
statues, 122;
portico, 283

Chestnut, the, 344

Chili, emigration to, 175

Chinas, 210

Chinese early writings, 273

_Chirimias_, the, 75 and _note_

_Chirrio_, 213

Chocolate of Santiago, 191

Christchurch, Bournemouth, 115

Christian Art, symbolic character, 108-9

Church, the, influence in the Middle Ages, 79-80

Churriguera, José, 93;
style of, 93, 105, 106

Ciceron, Sr. Ricardo Blanco, collection of, 205-9, 353

Cies, the, 277-78

Cimbri, the, 10

Cimmerians, 10

Cinania, 14

Cirencester, 33

_Civitas Limicorum_, 21, 25, 26

Clarions of Santiago, 75 and _note_

Claudia, poet, 15

Clavigo, 99, 311

Clement IV., 67

Clement, St., 72

Cluny, Monastery of, 88;
monks, 97, 128

Cluny Museum, 68, 150

Coins, ancient, 206-7, 223, 233

Colegiata de Iria, 226

Colegiata de Santa Maria Vigo, 278

Colegio de Santa Cruz, Toledo, 138

Colegio de San Jerónimo, 200

Columbus, La Gallega, 22

Combarro, 265-67

Compostela, Pedro de, 47

Compostela, Santiago de. _See_ Santiago.

Congress, Catholic, at Munich, 43;
Eucharistic, at Lugo, 306

Conjo, Church of, 62

Conques Cathedral, 96

Constantine, 81

Constantinople, 81-82

Consul, Francisco, 346

Contractus, Hermanus, 44, 45

Cordova, 5;
Grand Mosque, 43, 83, 85-86;
bronze work, 106

Corn-rent, Ramiro’s, 98-99

Cornide, Sr. Joseph, 11, 217, 219, 220

Cornwall, cup-marks, 274

Coruña--
Brigantia, 1, 14, 152, 191;
province of, 152;
Tower of Hercules, 154, 161-63;
harbour, 154-55, 171;
glass-covered verandahs, 155-56;
gardens of San Carlos and tomb of Moore, 156-58;
Campo Santo, 161-162;
Francis Drake, 163-64;
Church of St. George, 164;
fishing industry of, 164-66;
the making of ice, 165-166;
chocolate factories, 166;
the poor of, 166-69;
the “Little Sisters of Charity,” 167-69;
tobacco factories, 169;
streets, 170;
social life, 170;
the Assembly, 170-71;
churches, etc., of, 171;
waterworks, 177;
bulls of, 214;
commercial importance, 277

Costina, Mount, 245

Credrie, 207

Cremation, 7

Crimea, vine-growing in, 264

Cristal, the name, 326

Cro-Magnon, 5

Cuba--
Trade with Spain, 166, 170;
Gallegans in, 183;
and Rosalia Castro, 187

Cubillas, the, 83, 85

Cuelos, Juan de los, 258

Cueva de los Letreros, 5

Cueva, Juan Muñoz de la, 290

Cup-markings, 273-75

Customs in Galicia--
The Mantilla, 199;
water-carrying, 202;
a wedding, 202-3;
carnivals, 203;
a village festival, 230;
animals in dwelling-houses, 241-42;
wrestling, 243;
excursions or _Romerias_, 248;
Holy Week ceremonies, 235, 249-51;
use of umbrellas, 269;
funerals, 307;
use of mica, 326

Cypress tree, the, 325

Dalmatius, Bishop of Compostela, 97

Dante, 76

Daroca, 81

de Voguë, 185

Denmark, rock-writings of, 274

Dias, Pastor, 188 _note_

Didron, 108, 109 and _note_;
on iconography, 122

Diomedes, King, 278

Dionisius, monk, MS. of, 122

_Diurno_, the, of Ferdinand I., 194-95

Dogson, Prof. of Oxford, 242

Dolmens, 6, 246, 247;
on coast of Noya, 232

Dominguez, Fernando, 313

Dominicans, 227

Dorchester Church, Oxfordshire, 115

Drake, Sir Francis, 163-64, 201

Drowning, prevalence in Spain, 169

Dublin Museum, torques, 207, 353

Duero, 15

Durando, Guillermo, 46

Eadmer, 47

Easter Sunday markets, 251

Ecuador, population, 176

Education in Galicia, 177-78;
_Institutos_, 197

Edward I., 76

Egas, Enrique, 138-39

Einsiedeln, 67

El Monteiro, 296

Elizabeth, Queen, 201, 266

Emigration from Galicia, causes, 172-77;
Ford on, 177;
evils of, 178-79;
home-sickness of the emigrant, 183

England--
Pilgrims to Santiago from, 76;
and Padron, 222-23;
English at Vigo, 277;
English enterprise in Galicia, 315-16

English cathedrals, plain capitals, 126-127, 131

Enrique II., 76

Enrique III., 260

Enriquez, Manuel Curros, 326

Eo, the, 22, 299

Epiphanius, S., 28

Eremita de San Miguel, 328-29, 332

Escos, 340

Escurial Collection, 3;
library, 47

Estremadura--
Emigration, 117;
mule-breeding, 180;
pigs, 212

Estudio Viejo, the, 192

Etheria, story of, 33-38

Etruscan terra-cottas, 5-6

Eucalyptus, the, 345

Eucharistic Congress at Lugo, 306

Eugenius IV., 283

Eulogius, S., 28

Euphemia, Santa, 290-91

Eusebius of Cæsarea, 29

Evans, discoveries, 5

Fabius, Quintus, 13

Faciundo, San, 325

Factories, need for, in Galicia, 180

Failde, his book on Galicia, 178-81;
on Rosalia Castro, 184, 187;
on the Gallegan character, 185

Famiano, San, 317

Fegueroa, Marquis of, 52

Feijoó, _cited_, 50-51, 296

Ferdinand I., 194

Ferdinand II., 279

Ferdinand III., 177, 263

Ferdinand VI., 315

Ferdinand and Isabella, foundation of the Hospital Real, 136-37

Ferdinand of Leon, 282

Fernandez, Froila, 271

Fernando, King, 73

Férotin, Father Marius, 36, 37, 38

Férotin, M. Macias, 195

Ferrandez, Sr. Anton, 5

Ferreiro, José, 251

Ferreiro, Lopez, 24, 95 _note_, 96, 173

Ferrer, Mauro Castella, 68-69, 223

Ferrara, Ricobaldo de, 46

Ferro, Miguel, 71

Ferrol harbour, 22;
oysters, 219;
fortifications, 314-15;
arsenal, 315-16

Fiesta de Caneiros, 309

Figueroa, Emmanuel Bonaventuræ, 196

Figueroa, Marquis of, _quoted_, 187

Filgueira, 287

Finisterre, Cape, 14, 17, 217, 245

Fish of Galicia--
Sardine industry, 217-18;
anchovy, 218;
salted cod, 218;
lamprey, 219, 335;
turbot, 219;
oysters, 219-220;
scallops, 220;
cod, 220;
salmon, 220;
mullet, 220-21;
trout, 221

Fishermen’s League of Pontevedra, 255-256

Fita _cited_, 223

Flacila, 15

Flamenco, Pedro, 103

Flax-growing, 345-46

Florence, Duomo, 91

Florez, _cited_, 8-9, 163

Fonseca, Archbishop, 69, 106, 192, 193, 225;
will of, 195;
portrait, 196

Fonseca, Medical College, 193

Ford, 192;
on emigration, 177

Forum Limicorum, the, 26-27

France, 229;
pilgrims from, 71-72;
French troops at Tuy, 280

Frances, St., 69

Francis I., 91

Francis of Assisi, St., 55, 305

Franciscan monastery, Pontevedra, 262

Frari, Church of the, Venice, 305

Freira, 287

French language, 54-55

Fruime, 45

Froila, Sarcophagus of, 304, 329

Fructuoso, 195

Fructuosus, St., 39, 40 and _note_--42

Fruime, Cura de, 188

Fuencaliente, 5

Gaibor, J., 293

Gaita, the, 294

Galaico-Portuguese language, 55

Galba, 13

Galicia--
History, 1-16;
the term “Galicia,” 8-9;
boundaries, 17;
configuration, 18;
climate, 18-19;
vegetation, 19-20;
rivers, 20-22;
harbours, 22;
gardens, 22-23;
first golden age of Galicia, 24-38;
her second golden age, 49-59;
language, 50-59, 187-88;
architecture, 78-93;
taxation, 173, 179;
education, 177-178;
cattle-breeding, 179-80;
mule-breeding, 180;
absence of factories in, 180;
morals, 181;
usury, 181;
_trovadors_ of, 188;
coinage, 206;
minerals, 233, 353-55;
monasteries, 317-42;
trees, fruit, and flowers, 343-51;
livestock, _see that title_;
fish of, _see that title_

Gallegan arms, 22

Gallegan, the--
Home-sickness, 253;
bravery, 356;
stupidity, 356-57

Gallegos, the, 8-9

Gamurrini, M., discovery of, 36-38

Gandara, springs, 355

Garcia, Abbot, 317

Garcia, King, 287

Gautier, Léon, 56

Gelmirez, Archbishop, 54, 106, 149, 199, 280;
book of, 62-63, 65;
palace of, 134-35;
his mint, 135

Geographical Society, the, 196

Georgia, 4

Geraldus, 207

German characteristics, 153

Geyer, Paul, 36

Ginzo, the, 20

Ginzo de Limia, 26

Giotto, 90

Girardo, 63

Gold, ancient objects of, 206-9;
torques, 207-8, 233

Gomez de la Torre, Bishop, 283

Gomez-Morreno, Sr., 83, 84 _note_

Gonzalez, Amaro, diary, 201 and _note_

Gonzalez, Gomez, 147;
tomb in Sar, 150

Gonzalez, Pedro, 258

Good Friday customs, 250

Gothic architecture, rise of, 88-90;
symbolic character, 90-91;
periods, 92

Goths in Galicia, 301

Granada--
Bridge of Pines, 83-84;
art of, 87;
conquest, 136;
university, 192

Grandmaison, 292

Granite houses, 266, 269;
amount of granite in Pontevedra, 268;
a granite quarry, 269;
granite villages, 320

Gratian, Emperor, 223

Greco, “St. Francis of Assisi,” 297

Greek churches, absence of statues, 122

Greek colonies, traces in Galicia, 10-11, 243, 278

Greek types of women, 246

Gregorian Chant, the, 267

Gregory the Great, St., 45 and _note_, 67

Guadalete River, the, 158

Guadalquivir, burning the bridge, 262-263

Guillen, Master, works, 102-3, 138, 140

Guina, peak of, 18

Handmills, 7

Hannibal, 13, 22

Hasan Ali, Abul, 205

Hedgehogs, 216

Hedges of granite, 268;
of blackberries, 268-69

Helda, Donna Sancha Roca, 259

Henry II., 77

Herbon, Monastery of, 227-28, 230

Hercules, Isthmus of, 5;
Pillar of, 12;
Tower of, 12

Hermanricus II., 29

Herodotus, 10, 11, 206

Herrera, architect, 298

Herrero, 92

Hesiod, 212

Himilcon, expedition of, 11

Holanda, Cornelius de, 259

Honorius, Emperor, 15, 31

Hospital de San Lazaro, Sar, 150-51

Hospital de San Roque, 205

Hospital Real, the--
Foundation, 136-37;
architecture, 137;
statuary, 137-38;
cloisters, 138-39;
chapel, 139-42;
sculptures, 140-42;
belfry, 142;
decadence, 142;
the nuns of St. Vincent de Paul, 142-43;
the kitchen, 143;
efficiency, 143-44;
Philip II. at, 201

Hot springs of Orense, 288-89

Houses, Portuguese and Spanish compared, 287. _See also_ Granite

Huerta y Vega, Manuel de la, _cited_, 8

Hugo of Porto, 63

Hugo, Victor, 74

Hundred Maidens, legend of the, 309, 311

Iberians, the, 4, 5, 244

Ice, making of, 165-66

Iconoclasts, 82

Idatius, Bishop, 4--
Birthplace, 25-28;
and Aecius, 28-29;
Chronicles, 29-30, 284

Ildefrede, Abbot, 61, 203

Immaculate Conception, the, 47-48

Incas, the, 265

Incense, first use of, 72 and _note_, 73;
the censer of Santiago, 72-75

India, rock-inscriptions, 274

Inquisition, the, medal of, 263;
and Sarmiento, 265

Inscriptions--
Of Limia, story of, 26-27;
Roman, 223, 243-44, 306;
cup-marks, 273-75;
on the stone at Rocas, 341

_Institutos_, 197

Inverness, rock-drawings, 275

Ireland--
Poets of, 51 and _note_;
art in, 127-28;
emigration, 173, 177;
the potato famine, 179;
torques of gold, 207-8;
“cup and ball” drawings, 273

Iria, 61, 223

Iron instruments, absence of, 7

Isabel of Granada, abbess, 205

Isabel, St., 69

Isabel, Queen, 73

Isidore, St., _cited_, 8, 9;
death of, 40;
writings, 86

Italicus, Silicus, 10

Italy--
Emigration, 175-76;
oxen of, 212

James, St.--
Tomb of, 42-43, 52;
legend of, 60-63, 178, 223-24, 226-27;
ceremonies of the pilgrimage, 66-68;
representation in the Pórtico de Gloria, 114;
the festival, 212

Janza, Church of, 228

Jehan de Chartres, 53 _note_

Jerome, St., _Chronicles_, 25-26;
and Idatius, 28;
history, 29;
translation of the Scriptures, 32

Jerusalem, the journey to, 24-25

Jesuit College, Monforte, 297-98

Jesuits, the, 22

Jet images of Compostela, 66-68

Jewish burial ground, 295

Jews in Spain, 268, 295

John X., Pope, 65

John of Gaunt, 76

John, St., 28

Joseph Bonaparte, 292

Joyce, _Book of Leinster_, 207

Juan Arias, Archbishop, 66

Juan, Bishop of Seville, 54

Juan de Briena, 69

Juan de Granada, 205

Juan de Lares, 295

Juan II., 69

Juana, Donna, 260

Jubainville, _cited_, 5, 8, 10 _note_

Julius VI., Pope, 284

Junquera de Ambia, 296

Justinian, Emperor, 82

Justino, 10

Kashab hill, Tangier, 118

Keller, Dr. Fernando, 67

Kent, 33

“King of Galicia,” title of, 1

Kirkcudbrightshire, cup-markings of, 274-75

Kirker Museum, Rome, 68

_König Fredrick August_, the, 153

La Virgen de la Esclavitude, 225-26

La Virgen del Cristal, 326

Labrada, 346

Lago, Señor Manuel, of Lugo, 281

Laino, reed hats of, 350

Lambert, Father A., of Lemberg, 38

Lamperez, _quoted_, 92-93, 98, 236

Lancaster, Duke of, 295

Land question in Galicia, 175

Landino, 194

Landoso, 20

Language of Galicia, 50-59, 187-88

Las Burgas, Orense, 288-89

Las Sarmientas, 266

Latin language, the, 53-55

Le Play, _cited_, 181

League of Fishermen, Pontevedra, 255-56

Lemos, Courts of, 297, 298, 302

Leo X., Pope, 75, 267, 283

Leo the Isaurian, 82

Leon, 17, 312

Leon, Sir Cabeza, 205, 357

Leonora, wife of Edward I., 76

Leovigild, 16

Lerez, the, 255, 264-65

Libredon, 61

Ligurians, the, 5

Lima Cathedral, 265

Lima of Peru, the, 21

Lima, Ponte de, 26

_Limace_ or _Lunace_, 207-8

Limia River, the, 13, 20-21

Limia, town of, 25-26

Limicos, city of, 26

Lincoln Cathedral, 98 _note_, 280

Linen trade of Galicia, 345-46

“Little Sisters of Charity,” 167-69

Livestock of Galicia--
Pigs, 210-12;
poultry, 212;
oxen, 212-14;
horses and mules, 214 and _note_, 15;
goats and deer, 215;
wolves and bears, 215;
hares and rabbits, 215-16;
owls, bats, muskrats, 216;
wild cats, 216-17;
birds, 217

Lodoselo, 26, 27

Logo Cathedral, 293

Lope de Vega, 178

Lopez, Bishop Juan, 259 _note_

Lopez de Mendoza, Archbishop, 236

Lorenzo, Bishop of Orense, 289

Los Trangueiros, 255

Louis VII., 69

Louis XI., 102

Louth, county of, 300

Louvre collection of coins, 207

Lucullus, 13

Lugo, 1, 21, 22;
wolves of, 215;
pheasants, 217;
councils, 226, 301;
walls, 300;
history, 300-1;
convent of San Francisco, frescoes, 305;
cloisters, 305-6;
Roman remains, 306;
the Eucharistic Congress, 306;
market day, 307;
flax-growing, 345;
sulphur springs, 354;
Roman baths, 353

Lugo Cathedral--
Pórtico, 282;
Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament, 301-3;
style, 303-4;
sarcophagus of Froila, 304;
the “Virgin with the Large Eyes,” 304-5

Luna, Rodrigo de, 226

Lusitania, 8, 13, 14

Lydian coins, 206

Macaulay, 276

Macdonald, Dr., 206

Machado, José, 194

Macias, Dr. Marcelo, 21, 25

Macias el Enamorado, 52;
poems of, 57-59, 182;
birthplace, 230

Macineira, Sr., 7

M’Kinley, Colonel, 268

Madrid--
Athenæum, 5;
Archæological Museum, 5, 208, 263;
Royal Library, 63;
fish for, 165, 166;
smoking habit in, 169;
invasion of 1706, 170-71;
the university, 192, 197;
“St. Francis,” by Greco, 297-98;
Archives of Natural History, 321

Magellan, Straits of, 265

Magnol Pedro, 343

Maldonado, Cardinal, 103

_Mamoas_ of Galicia, 6-7

Man, Island of, rock-writings, 274

Mandeo river, the, 308, 309

Mandeville, Sir John, 55

_Mareantes_, 255-56

Maria Francisca de Isla y Lozada, 357

Maria of Savoy, Queen, 93

Mariana, 1

Marin, 255, 263-64, 267

Marinho, Pero Annes, 53 _note_

Marino, Bishop Vasco Perez, 289, 290

Mariño, Gonzalo, 227

Markham, Sir Clements, 265

Martial, _cited_, 8

Martin, Anton, fountain of, 93

Martin, Dumiensis, 16

Martin of Tours, St., 294

Martinez de la Meta, Francisco, 346

Martinière, General, 280

Mateo--
The Pórtico de Gloria, 109, 110, 289, 313;
representation of himself, 118;
his art, 120-21;
birthplace, 123-24;
pension, 125;
the Palace of Gelmirez, 132;
Chapel of St. Joseph, 133;
style, 228

Matilda, wife of Henry I., 70

Maunday Thursday customs, 249-50

Mauregato, King, 309

Maurus, St., 193

Maxwell on Moore, _quoted_, 158-59

Mazaredo, General, 157 _note_

Medicinal waters, 353-54

Medulio, Monte, 21

Mela, _cited_, 9

Mela, Pomponius, 232

Melida, José Ramon, _cited_, 5 _note_, 6, 7

Mella y Cea, Sr. Ricardo, 172-73

Merida, museum of, 83

Merleanus, Asclepeades, 255

Merlemond, Oliver de, 131-32

Mértola, 83

Metal-work, Roman, 205

Mezonzo, St. Pedro de, 42-43

Mica, use of, 326

Michael Angelo, 91;
cupola of, 75

Midacritus, 12

Miñan, spring of, 21

Mindaño, skulls from, 197

Minerals of Galicia, 233;
gold, 353;
medicinal springs, 353-54;
gneiss, etc., 354

Miñez, Airas, 53

Minguez, Diego, 246

Miño, the, 14, 21-22, 220, 234, 276, 278, 279, 286-88, 299, 300, 353

Miro, King, 16, 226

Molina, Francisco, 137, 162-63;
his list of pilgrims, 70

Molinos, the, 279

Monasteries of Galicia--
Schools of culture, 24-25;
origin of, 41;
influence on architecture and learning, 88-90;
principal, 317-42

Mondariz, baths of, 355

Mondoñedo, Cathedral of, 70, 307

Money-changers of Santiago, 68-69

Monforte, 293--
Jesuit College, 297-98;
convent of Santa Clara, 298-99;
poplars of, 345

Monroy, Archbishop, 149

Montalembert, _quoted_, 33, 41, 79, 86

Monte, Arnaldo de, 63-64

Monte Barbanzos, 240, 244

Monte San Gregorio, legends of, 227

Monteil, Ademar de, 44, 45

Montenegro, Domingo A. L., 104

Monterrey, Count of, 353

Monterrey Torre del Homenaje, 296

Montes, Lorenzo, lectures, 193

Montferrand, Pierre de, 53 _note_

Moore, Sir John--
Tomb in Coruña, 154, 156-58;
Maxwell, _quoted_, 158-59;
Wellington on, 159;
“The Burial of Sir John Moore,” 159-60

Moors, the--
Invasion of Galicia, 2, 3, 42;
influence on Spanish architecture, 80-81, 83, 86-87;
traces of, in Galicia, 83, 88 and _note_, 303, 309, 328;
the Mussalman arch, 84-85;
relief work of, 87;
customs, 118, 170

Morales, Ambrosio, 2-3, 178

Morocco, immigration, 176

_Morriña_, 183, 253

Mos, Marquis de, library, 218

Mosaics, Roman, 205

Moure, Francisco, 293, 298, 304

Mudejar architecture, 80-81

Mule-breeding, 180, 214-15

Muñez, Don Pedro, 192

_Munices_, 208

Muñio, Bishop of Mondoñedo, 63, 149

Murguia, 192, 193

Murillo, “San Antonio,” 270

Muros, port of, 245-46

Muros, Diego de, 136, 196

Muros, Ria de, 17

Muruáis, Filomena Dato, 184

Musical instruments, Gallegan, 294

Musk-rats, 216

Mystery plays, 122

Nairn, rock-drawings, 275

Najera, Victor de, 337

Namatea, story of, 108-9

Napoleon in Spain, 142, 159, 189, 195, 292

Naser, 205

Necho, King, 11

Nerves, 286

Newick, R. C., and “The Burial of Sir John Moore,” 159-60, 160 _note_

Ney, Marshal, 268

Nicholas V., Pope, 73

Nicolas of Pisa, 90, 121

Nilsson, Prof., 274

Nitigisco, Bishop, 301

Noboa, family of, 294

Nocela de Pena, 26-27

Nogueira, village of, 195

Noris, General Henry, 164

Noroña, 268

Norway, emigration, 173 and _note_;
trade, 218

Notre Dame, Paris--
Façade, 109, 120;
statues, 122;
sculptures, 129

Novas, José Martinez, 283

Novgorod, 2

Noya--
Lampreys of, 219;
situation, 231-32;
the journey from Santiago, 232-34;
houses, 235, 239;
Santa Maria, 235;
Trinitarian convent, 236;
San Martin, 236-39;
the old wall, 239;
prison, 239-40;
drives, 240;
granite cottages, 241;
a sculptured cross, 242;
Roman inscriptions, 243-44;
Portus Sinus, 244-45;
boat-building and trade of, 245;
a photograph, 246-47;
churches, 248;
San Mamed, 248;
the leper chapel, 248-49;
Holy Week, 249-251;
famous men, 251;
bull-fights, 252;
the journey back to Santiago, 252-53;
shipping, 344

Nuestia, Señora del Caneiro, 310

Nuñez, Admiral Mendez, 156, 263

Nuñez, Fernan, of Toledo, 57

Nuño, Juan, 142

Obobriga, 290

Obsidian stone, 302

Odoario, Bishop, 301

Ordenes, 191

“Order of the Knights of Spain,” 52

Orense, 1, 20, 22, 184;
pigs and goats of, 211;
wolves, 215;
rabbits, 216;
the line from Tuy, 286-287;
the Miño, 287-88;
Las Burgas, 288-89;
Franciscan monastery, 294-95;
church of La Trinadad, 295;
drives, 295-96;
Orense Grammar School, 325;
flax-growing, 345;
wines of, 348

Orense Archæological Society, 26

Orense Cathedral--
Swinging censer, 76;
portico, 282;
the El Paraiso, 289-90;
the burial of S. Euphemia, 290-92;
tomb of Quevado, 292;
another crucifix, 292-93;
wood-carving, 293

Orense Museum, 26;
Roman remains, 293-94

Origen, heresy of, 32

Orosius, Paul, 8, 30-32

Ortegal, Cape, 217

Osceas, 73

Osera, 319, 324

Osera Cistercian monastery--
Monks of, 234;
the Escurial of Galicia, 317-18;
the journey to, 318-21;
the charter, 321-22;
façades, 322;
cloisters, 322-23;
conventual church, 323;
la Virgen de la Leche, 323;
sacristy, 323-24

Ouro, the, 279

Oviedo, Dr., 22, 111, 117, 178, 201, 299;
and the _Salve Regina_, 44-47

Ox, the, on coins, 206

Oxford University, 90, 170

Padron, 61, 62, 66, 183;
lampreys, 219;
an emporium of Phœnician trade, 222;
_Iria Flavia_, 223;
Rocha de Padron, 223;
the road from Santiago, 224-30;
Pico Sacro, 224-25;
Colegiata de Iria, 226;
Monte San Gregorio, 227;
Convento de San Antonio de Herbon, 227-28;
Cæsar’s Bridge, 228;
Castro Valute, 228;
church of Janza, 228-29;
Towers of Augustus, 230;
reeds, 350

Padron, Rodriquez de, _trovador_, 227

Paga, Sr. Varela, 355

Painted Stone, 229

Palazuelos, Hernan Sandrez, 260

Palestine, the journey to, from Galicia, 25

Palestine Pilgrims Tract Society, 36 and _note_

Paraino Monte, 247

Paris, library, 63;
University, 90

Parker _quoted_, 127, 131

Paul II., Pope, 283

Paul V., Pope, 298

Paulinus of Nola, Bishop, 122

Pausanius, 212

Pecte Burdelo, 309

_Pecten veneris._ _See_ Shell of St. James

Pedro, Constable of Portugal, 57

Pedro de Leon, 142

Pedro de Mezonzo, S., 203;
the _Salve Regina_, 42-47

Pedro de Pais, family of, 246

Pedro Don (Madruga), 272

Pedro Nolasco, San, 267

Pelagius, doctrines, 32

Pena de Oro, 246

Peralta, Thomas de, history of, 317

Perez, Abril, 53 _note_

Perez de Reoyo, Narcisa, 184

Pernas, Don Alonso, 336-37

Perpendicular style, 91

Persia, 12

Perth, rock-drawings, 275

Perugia, 190;
museum, 68

Peruvian writing, 273

Peter the Cruel, 295, 324

Petrarch, 90

Petri, Petrus, 313-14

Pharmacy, the faculty of, 197-98

Philip II., 69, 201, 315, 353

Philip V., 325

Phœnicians, the--
Phœnician colonies in Galicia, 11;
trade, 11-12, 222;
and the Tower of Hercules, 162, 163;
coins, 206;
Phœnician remains, rock-drawings, 274

Picard, Fulbert de, 64

Pico Sacro, 224-25

Pigeon, the, 217

Pilgrimages, early, 33;
to Galicia, 42;
to Santiago, 60-77;
to La Virgen de la Esclavitude, 225-26

Pines, profit from, 344-45

Pinto, Ferñao Mendes, 55

Pisa Cathedral, 96;
tower, 145, 147

Pita, Maria, story of, 164

Pitt, 314-15

Pius VII., Pope, 292

Pius VIII., Pope, 141

Placentia, Castro, 272

Placidia, Empress, 29, 36

Plateresco style, 91, 92-93

Pliny, 214, 216, 232, 278

Poets, Gallegan, 49-59, 185-89;
Irish, 51 and _note_;
Murguia’s list of Gallegan, 53 _note_;
Provençal, 188

Poictiers Cathedral, 97

Polo, Marco, 55

Ponte-Pinos, 83-84, 85

Pontevedra, 1, 18;
early colonies of the province, 10, 11;
Ria de, 17;
harbour, 22;
rabbits, 216;
position, 254-55;
history, 255;
trade, 255;
Santa Maria la Grande, 256;
Santo Domingo, 259-60;
grammar school, 260-61;
the open air archæological museum, 260-62;
church of the Franciscan monastery, 262;
historical documents of, 263;
gardens, 263;
other museums, 263;
drives--Marin, 263-64;
by the Lerez, 264-65;
Combarro, 265-67;
the Castello de Mos, 268-71;
convent of Santa Clara, 265;
house of Sarmiento, 265-66;
Ria de Pontevedra, 267;
San Juan de Poyo, 267;
Capilla, de la Peregrina, 268;
Jewish quarter, 268;
_Castillo de Mos_, 268-73;
chapel of La Virgen de la Peneda, 271;
rock-drawings, 273-75;
wines of, 348

Popiélovo, Nicolas, 227

Pórtico de Gloria--
Sculpture, 107;
triple archway, 107-110;
figure of Christ, 110-11;
the four evangelists, 111;
the four-and-twenty elders, 111;
the prophets, 112-13;
symbolism of the statuary, 113-14;
the Tree of Jesse, 114-15;
statue of St. James, 115-17;
Moses, 117;
the pillars, 117-19;
Mateo, 118;
capitals, 119-20;
the statues, 120-23;
colouring, 123;
capitals, 127-32

Portosino, 244-45

Portugal, language, 50-51, 187;
taxes 180;
frontier, 284-85

Posé, Enrique Labarta, a “bull fight,” 252

Potato, the, 346

Pottery, Roman, 205

Pousa, 287

Prado, sculptor, 199

Primitivo, San, 325

Prince of the Asturias, title, 1

Priscillian, heresy of, 15, 29, 31, 301

Provence, language of, 189

Prudentius, poet, 39-40

Prudhon, 173

Ptolemy, 11

Puente de Alonso III., 240-42

Puente de San Payo, 268

Puente de Triana, 263

Puente del Burgo, 255

Puente Internacional, 279

Puente Mayor, 288

Puentedeume, 309, 314

Pyrenees, the, 17-18

Quadrado, 84

“Queen Isabella,” style of architecture, 91

Quevado y Quintano, Pedro, 292

Quintana de los Muertos, 104

Raimundo de Monforte, 303

Ramiro, his corn-rent, 98-99

Ravenna, the _Ravenate_, 223

Recared, 16, 84, 87

Recesvinto, King, 84, 332

Redondela, 269, 276

Refuge, churches of, 200

Renaissance, architects of the, 90-93;
the Spanish, 92-93

Rennert, 57 and _note_

Repoll, façade, 109

Retablo, seventeenth century, 263

Rey, Luis Cradaso, 251

Rheims Cathedral, 109, 122

Rianjo, 201

_Rias bajas_, the, 17

Ribadavia, 287, 295;
vines of, 279, 348

Ribas, Sr. Francisco, 218

Ribera, Pedro, 93

Rios, Amador de los, 54

Rios, Marquis de Monfero, 264

Ripoll, 64

Ripon, monastic church, 89

Roads in Galicia--
The St. James’s road, 60;
special, for pilgrims, 62, 65;
bad condition of, 177;
plan of a Roman road, 294

Robles, Sr., 2 _note_ 1

Rocas, the church, 340-42

_Rocha de Padron_, 223

Rock-drawings, 273-75

Rodil, José Ramon, 195

Rodrigo, Archbishop, 16

Rodriquez, Juan, 230

Rodriquez, Luis, vocabulary, 251

Rodriquez, Ventura, 104

Rojo, Simon, 324

Roman Remains in Galicia--
The Roman arch, 81-82, 85;
coins, etc., 205-6, 223;
inscriptions, 223, 243-44, 306;
castros and tumuli, 232-33;
bridge, 233;
milestones, 255, 260-61, 296;
fortifications, 286;
mosaics, 293;
stones, 293-94;
Roman baths, 300, 331, 353

Romana, Marquis of, 157 _note_

Romance dialect, the, 53-54

Rome, government of Spain, 13;
sacking of, 32

Roncevalles, monastery of, 65

Rosendo, San, 325;
relics at Celanova, 327-29

Rotberto, 98

Rouen Cathedral, windows, 115

Roulin, M., on the Pórtico de Gloria, 109-10

Rozmilal, Baron de, pilgrimage, 66

Rush-gathering, 350

Russia, poets of, 185;
the pigeon, 217

Saavedra, 357

Sahagun, 159

St. John’s, Ephesus, 70

St. Paul’s, London, 91

St. Peter’s, Rome, pilgrims, 70;
style, 91;
statuary, 123

St. Petronius of Bologna, Cathedral, 96

St. Sophia, Constantinople, 82

St. Vincent de Paul, nuns of, 142

Salas, the, 20

Salisbury Cathedral, 96, 284

Sallust, 9

Salvatierra, 22, 286

_Salve Regina_, the, 43;
authorship, 42-47

Sampedro, Señor Casto, 257, 258, 262, 266 _note_, 268

San Anton, fort of, 171

San Antonio de Herbon, Convento de, 227

San Bartolomé, 261

San Bartolomé Cathedral, Tuy, 280-81

San Benito, church of, Santiago, 199

San Clement, Rome, plaited designs, 128

San Cosmo, 251

San Esteban, monastery of, ruins, 22, 333, 335-36, 338-39;
sarcophagi, 336-37;
cloisters, 337;
conventual church, 337-38;
position, 339

San Felix de Solovio, Santiago, 200

San Francisco, Betanzos, 312

San Francisco, Lugo, 305, 313

San Francisco monastery, Santiago, 209 _note_

San Juan de Baños, Palencia, 84, 331-332

San Juan de Poyo, 265, 267

San Justo de los Tojosutos, 234

San Justo River, 248

San Lorenzo, Santiago, 209 _note_

San Marco, Leon, 65

San Mamed, 248

San Martin de Nieble, 83

San Martin, hermitage, 267

San Martin, Mondoñedo, 307

San Martin, Noya, 236-39

San Martin, Pinario, 195, 200, 209 _note_

San Martin, Tiobre, 310

San Miguel de Celanova, 330

San Payo, convent of, 104, 203-4

San Pedro de Rocas, 340-42

San Pedro del Mezquita, church of, 296

San Roman, Toledo, 81

San Roman de Hornija (Valladolid) 84

San Rosendo, family of, 294

San Sebastian del Pico Sacro, 225

San Sernin of Toulouse, comparison with Santiago, 95-97, 132

San Simon, Hospital of, 277

San Vincente del Pino, Monforte, 297

Sanchez, 132, 135, 192-93, 195

Sandez, Fernandez, 43

Santa Clara, convent, 205, 265

Santa Clara, Monforte, 298-99

Santa Comba de Bande, 84, 329-33

Santa Cruz monastery, Coimbra, 291

Santa Eulalia, 226 _note_

Santa Maria a Nova, 235

Santa Maria de Azogue, Betanzos, 312, 313

Santa Maria de Cambre, 313-14

Santa Maria de Escos, 340

Santa Maria de Iria, 226

Santa Maria de Sar. _See_ Sar, Colegiata de

Santa Maria del Campo, 246

Santa Maria del Puy, church, 44

Santa Maria la Grande, Pontevedra, 256, 263, 313

Santa Maria Salomé, Santiago, 199-200

Santa Susana, Santiago, 62, 199

Santiago--
Moorish invasion, 42-43;
pilgrims to, 60-77;
jet-workers of, 66-68;
money-changers of, 68-69;
capture by John of Gaunt, 76;
school of artists, 124;
birthplace of Rosalia Castro, 184;
a walled city, 190;
position and climate, 190-91, 192;
hospitality of, 191;
absence of fires, 191;
chocolate of, 191;
medical college of Fonseca, 193;
convents and churches, 198-202;
a students’ riot, 198;
the Alameda, 199;
Colegio de San Gerónimo, 200;
Plaza de Alonso XII., 200, 201;
the Consistorio, 200;
fountains, 202;
convents for women, 203-5;
San Payo, 203-4;
Santa Clara, 205;
Archæological Museums, 205;
Hospital de San Roque, 205;
private collections, 205-6;
the pig market, 210-12