Chapter IV: Model: Dia. II

Breast, 35; waist, 33; seat, 35. Form: A combination of stooping and erect—neck bends forward—arms thrown backward—shoulders thrown up and square—very hollow at the back of the waist but erect there—shoulder blades prominent—seat shows very little at the back—front of waist and front of thigh thrown forward—top of back 3¼—side of neck 3⅝—shoulder laps ⅜ at the neck—⅝ toward the blade. Side of shoulder 9⅛ at 60 deg. Height of back above line 9 is 15⅜. Underarm gore, ⅛ on line 9—½ at line 15—1 at 17½—¾ at 20. Gore between the back and sidepiece: ½ at the armhole—meet at 11½ on the back—½ at 11¼—¾ at 15⅜—1 at 15 over the front—1⅜ at 17½—1¼ at 20—½ at 25—¼ at 30—¼ at 35. The forepart has a gore of ½ at the waist seam, and the same gore between the skirt and forepart in front. Center of back: From 15⅜ upward allow ⅛ outside of the base, and come even again on top—from 15⅜ downward go inward of the base ¼ at 17½—meet again at 22—go out ⅜ at 30—⅝ at 35 for the center and allow for the hook, etc. Front: In front of 9 allow 1—meet front edge and front angle at 14—go out 3¼ at 20—1½ at 30—meet at 35. Sink front of skirt ⅝, and no lap between skirt and forepart at the waist seam except to straighten the forepart over the gore.

V.—LARGE-WAISTED SACK COAT.

MODEL: DIA. VIIIA.

Breast, 43; waist, 46; hip, 46; seat, 44; length of pants, 32 inches. Form: Large all around—prominent shoulder blades—square shoulders—arms thrown back—neck rather short—head and front of waist bent forward—sides of waist full—all normal cut coats are too high in the neck for this form. Square of 18¾, which is small but good. Top of back at 3⅜—side of neck 3⅞. Shoulder seam laps ½ at the neck and ⅝ toward the blade—at 60 deg., 9. Height of back above line 9 over the forepart, 12½. Underarm cut, 1, and stretched up ½. Side seam: even at the armhole, and down to 11¼—¾ at 15—1¼ at 17½—1½ at 20—⅞ at 25—⅜ at 30. Center of back: From line 17½ spring out ⅜ at line 25. Front: In front of point 9 give 1¼—meet the front edge at the front angle at 20—go out 5 at 25 and 4 at 30—which will give a pretty straight front, but runs a trifle backward at the bottom. On top of lapel allow 1½ in front of the front angle and cut a gore of ½ under the lapel and in the center of the angle of 15 deg. At the bottom sink the front ¾ at the base. Notice that the proportions are all small over the breast line, but full in front, and also full at the side of waist, and will make a good coat for that size.

VI.—MODEL: DIA. VIIIa.

The breast size is the same as the preceding description, but the waist and hip are comparatively small. Breast, 43; waist, 41; hip, 43½. Form very erect and hollow in the back of waist—shoulders square—arms thrown back, requiring a small square for the back, and a full breast. Square of 18¼—under arm gore ⅜ at 11¼ and stretched up ⅜—height of back above line 9 is 12¼—top of back is at 3⅜ and side of neck 3⅞—shoulder seam laps ⅜ at the neck—side of shoulders, 9—gore between side and back: even at armhole—even at 11¼—1¼ at 15—1¾ at 17½—2 at 20—1¾ at 25 and 28. Center of back spring: ¾ at line 25, starting at 17½—cutaway front. Allow 1 in front of 9—meet front edge and front angle at 15—3¼ in front of 20—2½ at 25—meet at 28.