Chapter III: Preface (3)

If a cutter is troubled with this fault, the best thing he can do is to pin up the fold on and along the in-seam, and anywhere below the crotch, until the leg hangs straight, then fold the pattern the same way and change the draft accordingly. The same effect can be obtained by cutting the pattern through at the outside. But to imitate this cutting through on a pants which is made already, the side-seam should be opened and both sides, back and front, pretty well stretched at and below the side of thigh. Stretching both outsides as far over as possible is equal to shrinking both insides. Shrinking the inside would come back again, and make the pants too short, but if the outside is well stretched, that will remain.

This fault may also be altered by opening the whole in-seam and by dropping all the nicks of the forepart ¼ to ⅜ inches below those of the back, and cutting top of back fork that much lower. Changing the sides in a contrary way will accomplish the same thing. Dropping the forepart in-seam ¼ inch below the back in-seam nick will throw the center of foot at least 1 in. sidewise. My experience with such pants is this: Rip the whole pants, every seam of it, cut a new pattern and stretch or shrink all parts of the pants, until they conform to the pattern. It is better to lose the making of the pants than to alter blindly and spoil the whole of it. Pants which have faults contrary to the above description must be altered contrary to the above alteration, all of which must be done by a mechanic who knows his business, and one who feels an interest in the work to be done. It takes a good tailor to be a good bushelman.

The normal form requires the height above the crotch ¼ of the whole net seat measure, that is about 9 in. for a seat of 36, which is long enough for the body, and for a pants that is intended to fit close at the waist. But a great many persons require their pants higher up, and 10 or more numbers of the scale may be used. Pants which are cut higher than ¼ net waist measure must be sprung out on top, and on both the side seam and on the gore, as shown in Dia. XIII, and such pants should be as large as possible at the top, because a pants must not strike the short ribs at the side. But for such high pants the buckle-straps should be entirely omitted, or placed low, so as to draw at the actual hollow of the waist. If it were not for the pockets, waist bands would be useless, and no pants require waist bands over the back. If waist bands are cut over the back, they should be sewed on loose over the back, especially on high waists. A great many hold the backs full on the waist band, but this is not good, for if the waist is to be smaller, the gore in the back may be cut larger. Sewing on the waist band tight, is just as bad as sewing the collar of a coat tight over the side of the neck. Where the waist band is to be, or at least where it ought to be, the body turns larger upward and the waist band should be loose, unless the waist is quite short.

Hip pockets are an abomination, but somehow, men want and tailors must make them; but all such pants should be cut high in the waist in order to bring such pockets high up, and for this reason the buckle strap should be omitted, or they may be sewed on the outside of the hip pockets, so that the pocket is above the strap, and the sides should be cut as in Dia. XIII and XXI.

Some cutters require that the pants maker hold the back full on the top of the in-seam, and others again I have seen who require the fore part stretched, and others stretch both back and front crotch, while again others have a stay put in the whole length of the crotch seam to keep it from stretching, and all may be right providing the pants are cut accordingly.

As far as this work is concerned I have adopted the middle way, and say that the seams should be sewed up even. But here I must caution any one not to stretch the in-seam unless he has a good reason to do so. The in-seam stretches so much easier than the outside seam, and if stretched, without it is required, throws the pants legs into a different direction; that is, too far apart at the bottom, and such pants will only fit when the person spreads his legs apart, say 10 or 12 in., or if he stands on one leg only. Such pants usually throw a fold from the instep, up and forward, to the knee at every step, and there are plenty such pants seen all over the country.

The ready-made clothing manufacturers are always up to the times, and catch on to such things, and to-day we see a great many ready-made pants with a stay tape in the in-seam.

Some of these days pants will again be made with welted side seam, which double stitching will make the outside stiff and draw that seam together, while the in-seam stretches, and the above fault will show still worse. This is one of the points which should be studied carefully by every cutter and tailor, but which is not considered by a great many, hence by observing the “hang” of pants on persons on any street in any city, we find only a few perfect hanging pants, while the great majority flap in all directions. There are certainly more mis-fitting pants to be observed than any other garment. I consider the cause of it in the greater length of the parts of pants, and also in the fact that they are sewed up all around. A frock coat has a chance to go backward or forward by an open front and open back skirt, without showing wrinkles, but pants are sewed up all around, and the least misconstruction will show. But there is another reason. The waist and skirt of a coat is all outside of the body, while the pants may be said to have a partition in the shape of a crotch seam, and which crotch seam is affected by every step. I do not like the idea of putting a stay tape in the crotch seams, because all such seams should be made up thin and neat, and again, pants makers may go to the other extreme and draw the stay too close.

If pants seem to have the above described faults, I would advise cutters to give the inside of the bottom ⅝ more on the double, that is, locating the center of heel and foot ⅝ more toward the inside without disturbing the angle of 10 deg. This taking off at the outside and putting it on the inside must start at the thigh, and amounts to about ½ at the knee, than what it is at the bottom.

In cutting and making pants, or any other garment, a cutter must know whom he is trying to fit, and for what occupation the garment is to be used. It wants to be considered as to whether the person mostly stands or sits. A person who wants a suit for a wedding requires a different thing entirely than a person who hitches up horses or who works in the field, or digs in a trench. A tailor requires a larger pants waist than a clerk, and any tailor who ignores this fact is mostly found squatting down with the top button of his pants open. Now, if a person who writes all day wants to sit down comfortable when he works he must have a pants which is loose, and even too loose when he stands or walks, but that can not be helped, and a customer should be so told when he orders his pants, and he can have his choice. But it must be observed that persons who sit a good deal and want a loose waist require the allowance in front and side and the back slope should be made liberally large, in order to obtain a longer seat, even if the seat shows surplus cloth when standing. A long back slope prevents the pants from pulling up from the bottom, when sitting down, and we find that pants which fit very neat at the seat when standing, are more apt to crawl up when the person sits down, than such pants which show surplus length of seat when standing. But right here let me warn of an error into which many cutters fall:

A pants cut on certain lines or angles, like Dia. XIX, XX and XXI, requires a certain amount for fork and a certain amount for back slope, or length for the seat. Each has a certain function to perform. Not enough fork, and too much back slope, will allow a man to wear such a pants, but the seat will wrinkle too much. Contrary, too much fork may be drawn backward to supply a short seat, but such a pants will never hang or feel comfortable, unless the surplus, whatever or wherever it is, is thrown to where it is wanted by stretching certain parts, as described elsewhere. The same may be said about allowing cloth for a large waist, which requires a certain part to be allowed in front and a certain part at the top of side. Surplus cloth on the top of side, which ought to be in front, will be thrown forward, and form a fold, starting at the side of thigh, running forward, and when a person sits down, he will have his whole lap full of cloth.

Such are points which nobody will ever be able to teach to a certainty, or to learn from the books. All that can be done by a teacher is to point out causes and effects and approximate amounts for alteration; and a cutter must use his brains to pass judgment as to the amount taken off here, and given there, in each individual case, and that the ever varying forms of men will require an ever watchful cutter to fit it with such garments as a changeable fashion from time to time requires. Learning rules or going to cutting schools and hanging up a diploma near the cutting board don’t make successful cutters. After receiving certain instructions, a cutter must get the “_right hang_” of it by experience, and if he is a “_natural born_” cutter, he can use a horse shoe or a boot jack for his rule, and he will succeed as easily as a fish learns to swim, but if he is not a natural born cutter, or it may be better said, a natural born Fitter, he must acquire the “_Art_” by hard study.

STRIPES.

If Pants are cut from striped goods, the stripe should run parallel with the center line of the angle of 10 deg., both in front and back, though on the forepart it may be located an inch sidewise on the top of the waist; but the back part must have its stripe on that line. This is important to bear in mind, particularly on large pants, which are to be seen often with the stripe running inward or outward. On plain goods it makes no difference where the seams are cut, but on striped goods the forepart should be cut narrow at the side of the thigh, and broad at the side of the bottom in order to run the stripe parallel with the side seam.

It is quite an accomplishment to be able to determine the location of the seams on all kinds of pants without causing them to lose their balance. The top of the front may be cut ¼ full waist for the middle sizes, but the smaller sizes must be cut large enough to make room for the button-hole fly and the pockets. On large-waisted pants, it may save a good deal of piecing to cut the top of the forepart broad, and even as wide as the angle of 7½ deg., and then cut the pockets forward independent of the side seam; but if the material is striped, the stripe will be too crooked over the center of the front. On the front, the stripe may run 1 in. to the side of the top of the center-line on all pants, but on large waists, it may run 2 in. sidewise on top. On the back the stripe must run with the center line.

On a vest the stripes should run at right angles with the pockets, and nearly parallel with the front edge. On all cut-a-way coats, run the stripe with the front plumb line. On the back, run it with the edge of the back tack, and with the edge of the side of the back skirt as well as with the edge of the front skirt, so that the stripes fit to the pleat; but on straight coats, the stripes should run parallel with the front edge, even if the back edge is a trifle bias.

On the side-piece, the stripe should run nearly with the back when they are sewed together, and at the same time the stripe of the side-piece and skirt below should run nearly in the same direction, or as near as possible. On the sleeve, the stripe should run with the front sleeve base.

COAT AND VEST BASES AND THE ANGLE OF 135 DEGREES.

Scale: One-half breast and 2½ in., divided into 20 parts. The common inch produces breast size 35. Bases: See Fig. I and II and Dia. XI and XII. Fig. I shows the angle of 135 deg. to be applied in measuring the shoulder slope. The angle of 135 deg. is the base. The cutter is to find the variation, which is seldom over ⅜ inch higher or lower, but the angle of 135 deg. will fit 49 in every 50 cases. Fig. I shows the angle of 135 deg. over the back as well as over the front. In this position the two angles of 135 deg. cover two backs and two fronts.

The center of the back and center of the front represent the center of each angle of 135 deg., as the center of back and front, a hole being cut for the neck to pass through. Dividing the angle of 135 deg. in the center of the back or center of the front leaves half an angle of 135 deg. on each side of the back and each side of the front. The two halves again united will form another full angle of 135 deg. placed on the body, as shown on Fig. II with the front line running forward 15 deg. of the plumb line, and after a hole is cut for the neck the back line can fall down to the center of the back, closing into the top of the shoulder, for the shoulder slope is within the angle of 135 deg.

Taking away 15 deg. in front of the plumb line leaves 120 deg., or 2 points of the circle, as shown in Dia. XI and XII, each containing 60 deg. The center of the 120 deg. and the center of 135 deg. represent a space at the top of the shoulders, which may be used for the shoulder straps on military or society coats. The shoulder seam is cut through according to style or notion, and the forepart and side connected under the arm with the center of the back and the center of the front running parallel, as in Dia. I; or the back running parallel with the plumb line, as in Dia. II.

Either the front or back line may be used as a base, as in Dia. I, or the back line and plumb line, as in Dia. II. With the help of the diagrams, the bases ought to be plain to everyone. Yet the following in addition might be said: The angle of 135 deg. is ⅜ of a circle; cut on the double, it will give ¾ of a circle when spread apart. Three-fourths of a circle represents 3 squares, and a vest or coat, or any garment worn around the neck and shoulders, consists of a ¾ circle, or of 1 circle less 1 square. (See Dia. XI and XII.)

When the square is cut away from the center of the circle, and a hole cut in the center large enough for the neck to pass through, and the front edges are again connected, then it will fit the whole outside of the human form, except the sides below the arm. The square cut out of the circle takes away all shoulder slope. Each of the two backs and fronts requires a reduction of 22½ deg., as shown in Fig. I; hence, 4 times 22½ deg. will take up the full amount for both shoulders. If each back and each front requires a reduction of 22½ deg., it will require 45 deg. or half a square to be cut out on each side of the body, as in Dia. IV and V. Thus the bases are:

1st. The full circle.

2d. Three-fourths of a circle.

3d. Three-eighths of a circle, or 135 deg., for the center of the back and front.

The angle of 135 deg. is again divided into 4 main parts, as 90, 45, 30 and 15 deg., and may be divided into as many minor divisions as fancy will admit, or points to be found in the variation of garments, as in Dia. XII-A.

To measure the shoulder slope as shown in Fig. I, is a thousand times better, and more reliable, than the so-called upper and lower shoulder measures, or whatever such measures may be called. But for all that, actual practice in taking this measure will show, that even here some guess work must be done, and while I have said elsewhere that the shoulder slope should be measured, and that it can be measured, as indicated in Fig. I, yet it is equally true that that measure can be learned to be taken by sight, and such eye-sight measure may be acquired in one week, or after handling and measuring one dozen persons. After the eye of a cutter has caught the normal form of the shoulders, his eyesight will teach him most all variations, as good as a measure. That measure, taken by eyesight, or with any other instrument, must be taken over a coat with a good-fitting shoulder, or better, over a good-setting shoulder; for a shoulder may fit the body and still may not set well.

Again I must repeat this warning: Be slow in making changes, especially at the shoulder seam, for Dia. II will fit 49 out of every 50 persons, providing the sleeve does not drag the shoulder out of place.

The single garment, spread upon a flat surface, represents a circle, less one square, or less 90 deg., or a reduction of 45 deg. at each shoulder; but it must not be supposed that the form of Dia. XI, after having the edges of the square connected again, will form a slope like the shoulders of a human form, that is a slope of 22½ deg. The shoulder slope is calculated at 22½ deg., but that is only on each side of the body, and the center of the front, and the center of the back run down more straight, and in order to bring the ¾ of a circle, like Dia. XI, in harmony with the shoulders, the centers of back and front must be pushed nearly straight down, and then the sides will rise up, and form the slope for the shoulders.

If Dia. XI is cut from a piece of stiff paper, and the edges of the square are connected, and that circle formed in one continuous shape, like that of a lamp shade, it will form a slope of 30 deg., or near that slope, and corresponds to all diagrams, with a square of 17½, and with the plumb line base in front, from which base the shoulder slope is 30 deg., as shown in Dia. IX.

Here it will be noticed that the bases, as adopted in this work, mean something more than imaginary lines. They mean actual slopes of the human form, and quantities which are parts of the square or compass, and which instruments are known and used by all civilized nations.

SQUARES OF SEVENTEEN AND A HALF AND TWENTY.

The squares of 17½ and 20, and lines 9 and 11¼, are both permanent bases. But the lines which connect the back to the foreparts, or to the side piece, or join lines 9 and 11¼ over the front, require especial explanation. Line 9 on the front base of the angle of 135 deg., and line 11¼ on the front plumbline, meet in the center of the square of 20 and in the position as indicated on Dia. II. Line 9 is broken between the side-piece and back, and turned 15 deg. upward, but will be of the same space as the square of 20 when the side-piece and back is connected. The square of 17½ is one-eighth less than the square of 20, and harmonizes with the division of the circle, as shown on Dia. XII.

In both Dia. XI and XII, the circle has a full diameter of 40 numbers, and the triangle as shown in Dia. XII, has 35 numbers on each line, making an equi-lateral triangle. One-half of the circle is used as a square of 20, as in Dia. XI. One-half of the triangle is used as a square of 17½ as in Dia. XII. The square of 20 represents the amount used for the whole half vest, seam and surplus included, and the square of 17½ represents the half breast measure. The correct combination of the square of 20 and 17½, can only be used on a vest with one seam in the center of the back, and one seam under the arm. On coats the square is enlarged on account of more seams and other reasons elsewhere explained; but for all that, the squares of 20 and 17½ are a true guide for all coats. It will be seen that the squares of 20 and 17½, as used in this book, are not imaginary lines, but based upon a scientific calculation from the center of a circle or the corner of a square, which are used by the whole civilized world as points, or fixed facts.

By further examination of Dia. XI and XII, it will be found that all the essential points necessary in cutting a vest can be found within a circle, and without using a scale—all of which is further explained in the article entitled, “Scientific Calculation.” Another reason why lines 9 and 11¼ on the front bases are adopted, is the following: Lines 9 and 11¼ meet in the center of the square of 20. Line 9 runs at right angles with the center of the front. Line 14 on the back runs at right angles with the center of back. When the garment is upon the body, both run in the same direction, are in their natural positions, and on a square of 20.

For the reason that the vest is cut off below the waist, it can be cut on the square of 20 without piecing the pattern. But on a coat this cannot be done without piecing the pattern, and in order to obtain a draft or a pattern, without lap or piecing, the square of 20 is transformed into an angle of 15 deg., which contains the square of 17½ as for a vest, to which is added one-half for one extra seam, and which one-half more causes the squares of a frock coat to be 18 and 20½. And for reasons explained further on in this article, and in Dia. III, a three-seamed sack must have the same squares as that of a frock coat of five seams.

The following points must be well observed: Dia. II has a square of 18, or half an inch extra on the plumb line base, which half an inch is allowed for one extra seam. The square of 17½ would answer the same purpose if each side piece and each forepart was allowed one extra seam; but this would cause the pattern to be pieced, or allowance would have to be made for one seam, which will always be found troublesome, and for this reason the square is enlarged to 18. But, to be more definite, the square should be 17½ and half an inch for all sizes, because if ½ an inch is allowed for a seam, this seam requires the same for all sizes. Perhaps ⅜ inch will do the same, or maybe better for a snug fit, particularly for fine work, where ⅜ of an inch is amply sufficient for a seam; but I call it ½ an inch for the reason that ¼ of an inch more or less in an entire coat is nothing, particularly when we must admit that no two cutters will take the same measure, and that very few cutters are able to take the same breast measure twice with the same result, if done so in using a blank tape.

Though the square of 18 will result in a square of 20½, we find that if we observe Dia. II correctly, the back square, which ends at point 15, on the center of back, sinks below line 11¼ in front, and becomes larger and consequently a reduction is made at that line between the back and side piece, in order to re-establish the square of 20. Again, if we observe Dia. III, or the combination of frock and sack (and the vest as well,) we find that by turning the sidepiece forward at the waist it will turn backward about ½ inch at the shoulder blade, and although the top of the sidepiece and back lap ½, the square remains 18 for a three-seamed sack coat, the same as for a frock. The fact that I did not observe this simple point at the beginning, but made the square of a three-seamed sack ½ less than a frock coat, caused me to devote years in making alterations.

Dia. III is the best combination of frock, sack and vest, which I have been able to secure in 10 years of diligent study. Though the vest is not shown on it, because too many lines spoil the illustration, but anybody may observe the sameness in Dia. XII. Now, supposing the vest to be put in Dia. III, we simply reduce its square ½ under the arm to make it 17½ and place the height of back at 14. The combination places the different backs at the following height above line 9. Frocks at 14¼, vests at 14, and sacks at 13½. The squares of 18 and 20½ are, of course, for a coat, but this does not destroy the principle of cutting a vest over the same pattern, simply reducing it ½ inch in width under the arm, and cutting the top of the back ½ lower, or 3¾, as shown in the Vest Dia.

Neither the square of 20 nor the square of 17½, nor the angle of 15 deg., nor any other angle or square, will fit the body precisely, either of which must be adjusted to the requirements of the form; but when we know what a certain square or angle represents, and how they harmonize with the slopes of the body, we can very easily deduct or add to, as the case may require.

Now, although certain garments require more or less in the square, I will, in comparing, always mention the squares of 17½ and 20 as on a vest, for the reason that line 11¼ meets line 9 at its center—that is, at the center of the square of 20—from which point all calculations are made for turning or changing the lines over the back. The square of 17½, with the angle of 15 deg. attached in front, produces both squares 17½ and 20 on this particular spot, though the square of 20 is broken on line 9; and within the squares of 17½ and 20 all calculations are made in the article on “Narrow and Broad Backs.” By the terms: square of 17½, or 18, or 20, etc., I mean to say that the distance from the centre of the back to a certain base in front is such a distance. It may be that if I should say: a right angle, so and so far from back to front, would be better grammar, but I think, a square of so and so much will be fully as well, and may be better understood by the majority of cutters and tailors.

DIAMETER OF BOTH SHOULDERS FROM SIDE TO SIDE.

This article was written as long as ten years ago, and I have often thought to omit it, but have come to the conclusion that it is worthy of a place, and in fact, I may build better than I expect. Dia. V, VI, IX, and all others with a square of 17½ represent the diameter of the shoulders from side to side, either on the half, as Dia. V and VI, or the full, as in Dia. IX and others. Fig. I represents the full diameter, but cut in two at the center of the body. The width of the shoulders may be measured, but ordinarily that measure may depend more upon the condition of the garment over which it is to be taken, than upon the body itself. As a rule, that measure should be taken only for extremely narrow or extremely broad shoulders, and even then, there must be a good deal of guess work. As long as we allow the width of the shoulders 9¼ at 60 deg. we will never miss the mark from size 35 down to the smaller sizes. When we come to size 40 we have enough with 9 to 9½. Forty-three is plenty wide with scant 9, and size 50 is large enough with 8¾. Here is a difference of ½ number on each side of the coat, in 25 sizes, and that calculation can be depended upon. The width of the shoulders does not grow in proportion to the circumference of the breast, and in cases of doubt as to how much to allow at 60 deg., it is better to allow ¼ inch too little than ¼ inch too much. A shoulder which hangs too far over to the arm, and which is often noticed on large sizes, is worse than a shoulder which is too narrow. Again, a broad shoulder requires a scant sleeve head, while a narrow shoulder can stand more fullness on the sleeve head.

But I have started out to describe the shoulder of a man, as they may be narrow or broad, and in order to be quite plain, I will take up size 35, and use the term inches, for this particular article. On a draft of a size 35 the width of one shoulder, from back to side, is about 8 in., and which is ¾ inches less than the half square of 17½, but the ¾ inches are used up for seams. On top of the shoulders, the body is nearly flat, both across the back and front, and it is quite flat on a great many persons, but for our purpose all may be called entirely flat, and that part can be measured with a straight edge when the coat is on the body.

On this part, and above, the coat must swing the same as a piece of cloth will swing on a straight pole. If that part of a coat fits nicely, a great many other faults are usually forgiven, but if the shoulder breaks somewhere, complaint will be made. It will be seen by this, that the square of 17½ is not an imaginary quantity, but that it is in actual harmony with the shoulders, the same as the angle of 15 deg. is in harmony with the forward slope of the center of front. There is the square for a regular part of the form, and the angle of 15 deg. is for a irregular part.

On the lines of the square of 17½ a coat or vest can be folded up flat, and this can best be seen on a vest, which has no sleeves to hinder it from folding flat. A good-fitting vest can be folded up, on the square of 17½, and laid on a flat table, and it may lie there for ages without wrinkling, but can not be so folded on any other square. The angle of 15 deg., or the front part will always run forward of the center of the back, when folded up. When a garment is put on the body, it has to perform two distinct motions, and the center of the back must be considered the hinge on which the coat swings, just as a door swings on its hinges. From the center of the back the garment is swung sidewise, and locates from back to side, not from back to front, and for this reason must be fitted on straight lines in the back and in the front. From the side of the back, the garment is swung forward to the side of front, and both side of back and side of front may be called hinges again, because the body is really flat between all these points, and from the side of front the garment is swung again to the center of the front, where it runs up and down parallel with the center of the back. While it makes this motion it loses nothing in length, but its whole width of 20 in. will be divided between the two half diameters of the shoulders sidewise, and between the diameter from back to front.

The upper part, or that portion of a garment which is located on top of the shoulders, must perform a different motion. While the lower part swings around the body in a circle, the upper parts move on straight lines, on which the whole back is swung forward and the whole front is swung backward until they both meet. The shoulders lose in length, but nothing in width, which remains the same on the body as it was on the flat table. A garment must swing, and balance itself on the diameter of the shoulders, and there a coat must fit the body, and perhaps this is the only place where a garment should actually fit, as far as the conception of an actual fit goes, in garment fitting.

But now, we must consider a broad and a narrow shoulder, and observe the results of putting the same coat on both forms: The center of the back can not give, and the cloth must be thrown over the shoulders forward, and in a circle; and if anything is in the way which takes up more cloth, like a broader shoulder, which throws it sidewise, the front will be the loser, that is, the front will be too small. Here may be found one of the reasons why some men require a larger coat in proportion to their breast measure than others. The broader shoulder requires a larger coat around the sides and armhole than the narrow shoulder, because the broad shoulder throws more cloth in that direction, but the measure around the solid chest indicates nothing of that kind.

Let us suppose we have before us a man to be measured for a coat, and when we observe him, we make up our minds that he measures 40 inches breast. We draw the tape and it records 38. We measure again with the same result. Next we take the proof measures, and we take the so-called upper and lower shoulder measure, short measures, long measures, and what not measures, then we add and subtract again, according to our learning, and then we cut the coat very carefully, so that every fraction of the proof measures conform to our lines; and when the coat is done and the customer puts it on, behold! it is too small all over, the coat is thrown onto the shelf, and afterward sold for half price, notwithstanding that it was cut promptly to the balance measures. On a narrow shoulder we observe the contrary results as to the fit, and we will always find that a narrow-shouldered person can wear a smaller coat around the arms and the back.

In regard to a narrow shoulder, we may consider the form of an erect and full-breasted male and that of a female. As far as the upper part of the body is concerned, they must both be treated on the same principle. According to their breast measures, both need a smaller coat around the arms and back and a larger portion must be allowed in front of the breast. Strip a female’s breasts, and she will measure several inches less, and that amount has to be taken off in front, and that form will correspond to the form of an average male form. Now, to fit a female with a coat draft for a male, we must use a 34 pattern for a 36 breast, and allow 1 in. over the front of each half garment, and reduce, by gores, whatever the waist is smaller in front and below the fullest part of the breast. A coat for a full-breasted male must be treated on the same principle, only less prominent.

I do not claim to know much about cutting and fitting garments for females. That takes quite another calculation, but if I would start in to-day to learn to fit garments for females I would start out by taking a draft for a man’s coat for my guide, and use a scale of 2 to 3 sizes less for the female; allow 1 to 1½ in. at the front of each half breast and reduce at least 1½ in. at the waist below each breast. I would not change the shoulders, nor the hollow of the back, except the location of the seams, but I would go to work and find the normal proportion between the waist and the hips of a female, and thus produce spring enough over the hips, which nature has wisely provided very large for females. The center of back and front I would cut nearly on the same plan as Dia. II, only more prominent behind.

I throw the above out as a hint for cutters who may go to female tailoring. The time will soon come when men will pay more attention to cutting and fitting female garments because it will pay better, and some one may possibly be benefited by the above suggestions. Knowing what I know to-day, I would, if I were fifteen years old again, or even twenty, go to work and learn FEMALE TAILORING.

ANGLE OF FIFTEEN DEGREES FOR COATS AND VESTS.

(SEE DIA. XIII.)

If we take a square piece of paper and encircle the body from under the arm to the waist it will fit perfectly, although, when on the body, the front will be 15 deg. higher than the back; and if we want to form a level waist, we must attach a piece to the bottom of the front, amounting to 15 deg., as shown in Dia. I and IV. If we extend that piece of paper, or cloth, down to the side of the thigh and seat, we must cut it open at the side of the hip and below the waist, and insert a piece to accommodate the spread of the body, as shown in Dia. I. But the spread of the garment all around the lower body could be made better if two cuts were made—one at the side and the other near the back—representing the front and the back seam of the frock coat sidepiece.

Dia. I represents the body of a coat, that is, from arm to hip, in a position which it has to assume, when upon the body, and it must be observed that a garment, spread on a flat table, can only be in harmony with the body at one point; all other points must differ, and can only be correctly located by their true relation when on the body. This, I claim, is nearly the natural position of the garment when upon the body, and would require no seam at all below the arms and above the waist. If this piece was not wide enough we could enlarge it to the size desired, and wherever necessary, and would make no difference in the fit so long as the seams are allowed for. When taken off the body it will fit the flat table just as well as it did the form of a man. In this position of a coat, as on Dia. I, or a vest, as on Dia. IV, it makes but little difference if the side seams are cut a trifle more forward or backward—the fit will be the same.

I therefore claim that all changes in the seams, as the vest, frock and sack coats, must be made while in position, as in Dia. I and IV, or at least must be made on lines 9 and 14, etc., whenever the back is obliged to assume an unnatural position, as in Dia. II—all of which is further explained in the article on “Narrow and Broad Backs.”

But we must go back to the angle of 15 deg. If we take a square piece of cloth, representing the ½ breast measure of a 35 coat, we will have 17½ inches each way. If we add an angle of 15 deg. to one of the sides it will give us an angle of 15 deg., although the top point is lost, but would form like the upper part of Dia. XIII. The angle of 15 deg. spreads ¼ of its length; consequently it spreads 5 in. in 20, as seen in all diagrams in this work, with the front angle of 15 deg. attached.

Line 20 is located at the top of the hips, where the body spreads considerably, and the hip measure may be considered as large as the breast measure, though in different positions, as the hips spread more sidewise. The front line of the attached angle of 15 deg. is, at the same time, the front line of the angle of 135 deg., as well as the front line of the square of 20.

Now observe, that in changing the lines on the square of 20 in. into a square of 17½, with the angle of 15 deg. attached in front, the front does not change a particle, but the back, at the waist, is detached and thrown backward and upward, becoming larger at the waist and smaller on top, and forming the angle of 15 deg.—all the spread being toward the hips and seat, representing a garment without lap and without gore at the hips and seat, and without any waist suppression. Below the front of the waist the body recedes, and the front of the angle of 15 deg. is cut off accordingly, and runs straight down with the plumb line, as shown in the diagrams.

But this is not all. The angle of 15 deg., as in Dia. II, represents a straight but pointed or funnel-shaped piece of cloth, has its proper size at the bottom of the armhole, at the hips and seat, and front of the chest and waist, but is too large at the hollow of the waist above the hips and seat; and in this position gores must be taken out to imitate the hollows of the waist at the side and back. Not all is taken out, but only a portion, just to show the outline of the form; and if everything else is well proportioned, ½ inch more or less cloth at the waist will be of little consequence. It is of more importance to ascertain the depth of the seat and hollow of the waist, so we may know where to run out the gores, or where to make it the most hollow.

Line 17½ on the front plumb line may be considered the hollow of the waist for the normal form, and the seat may be located at 27 or 28, but on extremely short or slim persons these points should always be measured with care. In cutting according to the rules adopted in this work, the outside of the elbows can always be depended upon for the location of line 20, and the hollow of the waist is 2½ numbers higher, all to be measured from top of back. For the seat point, take the largest part or the upper point of the thigh bone, which corresponds to the wrist, the arm hanging down.

If the half breast can be fitted with ½ breast measure and 2½ in., all seams included except what the lapel takes up, the hip can be fitted with ½ hip measure and 2 in., all seams included except the lap of the buttons and button-boles, because the hip requires nothing in consequence of expansion, as the chest does. If the hip measure is the same as the breast, say 17½ in. for the half coat, then it follows that the hip, at the waist seam, may require 19½ in. and about ½ in. for lap of button-holes and buttons, making 20 in all. This must be the result, no matter if the draft is made like Dia. I or Dia. II. In Dia. II it will be seen that whatever the hips spread at line 20 is again reduced by the gore in the center of the forepart, as well as by a small reduction from the center in front. It should be observed, that, although the breast and hip may measure the same, the form is different at the hip than at the breast. The front is compressed and spreads sidewise at the hips, just like Dia. I.

Observe that the square of 17½ and the front angle of 15 deg. measure 22½ in. for size 35, at line 20; and it follows that 2½ in. may be reduced on and along line 20. Dia. II, and all others laid out in the square of 17½, are not only based on the above calculation, but are founded upon years of trial, and virtually the calculation is made from facts so obtained. This is also the way in which all the other diagrams have been produced. The angle of 15 deg. will fit the normal form at the arms, at the largest part of the seat, at the side of the thigh, and the front of the chest, but is too wide at the hollow of the waist behind, and stands off below the front of the waist, and must be reduced by gores as shown. On the back, it must be considered on a plumb line, spreading sidewise and forward.

The trifling spread below the side of the thigh is taken off by the gore in the center of a frock coat forepart, and is turned forward between the skirt and forepart; while on a sack coat it is partly cut off between the back and side seam, which is further forward than the frock coat skirt seam, and by which the gore in the center of a frock coat forepart is balanced. Now, in this position, it might be reasonable to make calculations for waist reduction by comparing breast, waist and seat measures, but as the waist is not to be fitted at all it would be useless unless we could take the measure just as wide as we wanted the coat at the waist, which cannot be done satisfactorily; therefore, we take the average, and cut out the waist in proportion to the breast measure. But it can be done only after the angle of 15 deg. is established, and recognized as a base, and understood, according to the principles adopted in this book.

But I must again call the attention of the reader to the plumb base on the back. The angle of 15 deg. is based upon a plumb line on the center of the back, both shoulders and the seat touching said line, and the front line of the angle of 15 deg. running forward and away from the body below the pit of the stomach, while the back runs straight down, as a coat must hang, as is shown in Fig. II. The back plumb line is not given in Fig. II, because it would interfere with the diagram above.

I do not claim that all men walk in that position, but tell a customer to stand before you for measurement and he will usually assume that position. In walking, a man is inclined to lean the upper portion of the body forward more or less; but leaning forward or backward the line from the shoulders to the seat is carried along, and the base will remain the same from the shoulders to the seat, and in a large majority of cases no attention need be given to altering either back or front; but there are extremes, and these do require a change there. A form may be stooping, or erect, but still may carry the shoulders and seat on a plumb line. Such forms require no change at the waist, but at the neck only; and a cutter must always observe such positions, because no so-called balance-measure will indicate it. But there is the so-called “sway-back,” who carries his shoulders way back of the seat. Such a form requires his coat reduced at the waist, not between the back and sidepiece, but between the sidepiece and forepart, unless a large waist requires or takes up that space again. We often see large-waisted and always erect forms with their coats too tight over the back tack, because the waist is not large enough for the hips. How much the reduction at the side should be must always be determined by the judgment of the cutter; but an outlet at the side of the forepart is more important than anywhere else—it will never do any harm and may become very handy sometimes when it is least thought to be necessary.

When a coat swings off behind it can easily be brought to the body by stretching the whole back and back of side seam, from the shoulder-blade downward; but when it is too close there, more width must be obtained by the help of the outlet at the side of the waist, and by stretching the sidepiece downward on the forepart, in order to force the width backward. Coats which appear too close at the back tack are usually so because the hips have not cloth enough, when an outlet is very handy again; but this seam should always be sewed by hand, because a machine-sewed seam will show when let out.

All outlets around the neck do more harm than good; and if they are left on, for the purpose of trying on, they should be cut away before the collar is sewed on, especially on heavy goods. A coat that is too loose around the neck can always be brought to the body by taking up the shoulder seam, which will reduce the length of the forepart, and leaves the back correspondingly longer.

The normal form represents a slope of 15 deg. forward from neck to waist, but a large-waisted form may represent an angle of 20 deg., and consequently such a form requires an addition in front of waist and outside of the front base; and I find that a large-waisted form requires from 1 to 1½ in. extra allowances in front of waist on a vest. The angle of 15 deg. measures 5 numbers at line 20, hence every 3 deg. measure 1 number at the point. Every corpulent individual should be measured according to the front slope of the chest. I know it is an odd measure for a beginner, but a little practice will make it plain work, and it will pay well. I do not claim that the measure must be taken absolutely correct, but it should be nearly so, so that an idea can be formed of what a person may want.