Chapter II: Part 2

Gradually mounting the talus slope of the rough canyon side, we emerge 1200 feet above the valley floor at ~New Inspiration Point~ from which is our last comprehensive view of the ~Gates of the Valley~. The outlook, although scenically not as perfect as that from the Wawona Road, is nevertheless quite attractive, for the depths below when viewed from this point seem almost always to be permeated by a transparent blue haze.

Near the top of the steady four-mile climb is ~Gentry Checking Station~, where motorists should again register. This is a possible camp for motorists but rather a poor location. One-half mile further is the "Gentry Townsite," laid out about 1914, and beyond, the site of the old Gentry Sawmill. There are here a few good places for auto camps. Water will be found at a spring above the road.

~Cascade Creek~ is crossed a short distance northward. The crossing offers no good camp sites. Fishing is fair. The short steep grade beyond the bridge is known locally as "Fords' Rest." We now ascend ~Lilly Creek~ to the crossing about half a mile above. Here the blazes of the old ~Mono Trail~ may be seen at the left leading down to a point on the rim of the canyon about three miles distant, where was once the terminus of the Coulterville Road. In the early days this was one of the chief routes used by the Indians and cattlemen.

Two miles beyond Cascade Creek is ~Tamarack Flat~ (Alt. 6390), named from the "tamarack" or lodgepole pine here so abundant. This is a splendid camping place, but somewhat cold. Fishing is fair and horse feed may be found upstream. A trail branching to the right leads to ~Aspen Valley~, six miles distant. It is extremely brushy, poorly marked and almost impassable.

Three miles westward is ~Gin Flat~, the summit of the Big Oak Flat Road. The meadow, bordered by red and white fir and Jeffrey and lodgepole pine, offers an attractive but cold campsite. There is a tradition that a barrel of gin was once buried here by one of the old-time whiskey peddlers, who was shortly afterwards killed. A more or less desultory search on the part of not a few "old-timers" failed to discover the prize, so after a few decades the matter became almost legendary. But in 1909, as a battalion of negro cavalry were marching to Yosemite for patrol duty, the tradition was in some way "picked up" in Groveland by one of the troopers. The commanding officer could hardly understand why his troops pushed on so readily the next day until, when camp was pitched at Gin Flat, they started to dig. Not a stone in the vicinity was left unturned--but the gin was never found.

At ~Crane Flat~ (Alt. 6311) two miles further west are many excellent camp sites. This camping ground is the one nearest to the ~Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees~. Water is conveniently piped from a spring to the vicinity of the ranger cabin. It is a good plan, if camp is to be made at Crane Flat, to gather firewood _en route_, for it is scarce in the immediate region. Motorists should register at the log cabin of the Park Ranger, and all east-bound cars should take water. A road branching southwestward leads to ~Hazel Green~, about five miles distant on the Coulterville Road, and to the ~Merced Grove of Big Trees~, seven and a half miles away. It is narrow and steep, but in fair condition. About a quarter of a mile from Crane Flat the ~Davis~ (private) ~Road~ turns to the left from the Hazel Green cut-off and leads to ~Big Meadows~ (4.5 miles) and ~El Portal~ (11.5 miles).

The main road bears to the north a short distance after leaving Crane Flat and, after one mile of steep descent, enters the ~Tuolumne Grove of Sequoias~. Most of the thirty trees in the small grove are advantageously seen from the road, but a short side trip to the tunnelled ~Dead Giant~ (above and to the right) is well worth while. This subsidiary road is steep and narrow and most people prefer to walk to the giant.

One-half mile below the grove the main road passes beneath the rustic gateway which marks the boundary between ~Yosemite National Park~ and the ~Stanislaus National Forest~. There are two possible auto camps in the next mile, but neither are very good. Bearing westward the road follows down the canyon of ~North Crane Creek~. Good camp sites will be found at the crossing about two miles below the park line. ~Hogdon Ranch~, a little more than a mile further, is another good place to camp. At this abandoned cattle ranch an old road branches to the left. It is impassable because of washouts. A mile and a half further along the main road is ~Carl Inn~, a mountain summer resort on the ~South Fork of the Tuolumne River~. Accommodations are excellent. Gasoline and oil may here be obtained. There are many fine camp sites in the vicinity and fishing is fair. One may obtain saddle or pack animals at the hotel for trail trips in the region.

Just west from the hotel is a main road junction. The ~Big Oak Flat Road~ to Chinese Camp, Knights Ferry and Stockton continues down the South Fork, while our road crosses the New England Bridge and bears northward. One mile takes us to another junction where the ~Hetch Hetchy Road~ (Road Trip V) branches to the left. The Tioga Road turns eastward, ascends a rather steep grade thru a fine forest of pine, cedar and oak, and in 4.2 miles again enters the park at ~Aspen Valley Ranger Station~. Motorists should stop and register. A government telephone is here available. There are excellent camping places in the vicinity and a good spring about two hundred yards northwest of the ranger cabin.

Two miles inside the park is ~Aspen Valley~, another abandoned cattle ranch. The long meadow offers a delightful camp. The ~Carlin Trail~, which is used chiefly by cattlemen, branches to the westward at this point and makes a rough descent to ~Ackerson Meadow~ six miles distant. Leading southeast is a trail to ~Tamarack Flat~ on the Big Oak Flat Road. Over most of its six miles it is so brushy as to be almost impassable and it is now little used. About one mile north of Aspen Valley the seldom used "~Packers' Trail~" begins at the left of the road and bears northward toward ~Hetch Hetchy~. From Aspen Valley eastward good camping places are so numerous that several will be passed each hour. They will therefore not be mentioned in the following text.

Our road now ascends ~Long Gulch~, passes over a low divide, and in 4.2 miles crosses the ~Middle Fork of the Tuolumne River~. This is an attractive auto camp but horse feed is scarce. The stream is well stocked with rainbow and eastern brook trout. We now follow along the well-wooded banks of the Middle Fork and in about three and a half miles, where the road makes a big bend toward the southeast, we find the beginning of the trail to ~Harden Lake~, ~Hetch Hetchy~, and ~the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne~.

The beautiful little ~Harden Lake~ (Alt. 7575) is only one mile distant by trail. It is a most attractive place to lunch and the round trip can easily be made in less than one hour. From points just north of the lake a most comprehensive view of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne is revealed. Harden Lake contains no trout.

~White Wolf~, some two miles beyond the Harden Lake Trail Junction, is one of the many fine meadows which our road now traverses. The old ~Ten Lakes Trail~ shown on the U.S.G.S. maps as leading eastward from this point has been superseded by the new ~Ten Lakes Trail~ up Yosemite Creek. The old blazes may be followed eastward two and a half miles to ~Lukens Lake~ (Alt. 8450), a charming little mountain lakelet surrounded by a park-like forest. It has not yet been stocked with trout.

About three miles beyond White Wolf the ~Yosemite Creek Trail~ (Trail Trip 11) branches to the right (south). Yosemite is ten miles distant by this excellent trail. Passing several small meadows, one of which is ~Dark Hole~, we descend in about two miles to ~Yosemite Creek Ranger Cabin~. The station is connected by telephone to Yosemite. From here a good trail bears to the southwest and joins the main Yosemite Creek Trail one and a half miles below. Good camp sites are numerous in the vicinity and at the ~Yosemite Creek Crossing~, about a quarter of a mile eastward, the new ~Ten Lakes Trail~ follows up the east bank of the creek. Our road now ascends about two and a half miles of heavy grades, finally passing over a flat divide and descending almost imperceptibly to the large meadows at ~Porcupine Flat~, an excellent camping place. One mile further the ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ branches to the right and leads southwest five miles to ~Yosemite Point~.

In another mile ~Snow Creek~ is crossed. Fishing is fair down stream. ~Snow Flat~, two and a half miles further, is an especially good place to camp. It is the usual base camp for the ascent of ~Mount Hoffman~ (Alt. 10,921), three miles to the northwest.

~May Lake~ (Alt. 9400) is about one mile north of the road by a plainly blazed but rough trail which climbs about 500 feet _en route_. Beautifully set in the rugged glacial amphitheatre at the east shoulder of Mount Hoffman, which towers imposingly above, it offers one of the most attractive side trips of the region. As a campsite it is unsurpassed. In the days when troops were guardians of the park this was the officers' private fishing lake--and fishing is most excellent. It was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1908, with eastern brook in 1908 and 1917, and with rainbow in 1908 and 1913.

From ~Snow Flat~ the road rises abruptly for a short distance, then descends 800 feet in the next three miles to ~Lake Tenaya~. Near a sharp bend in the road about one mile from the lake, a trail to the right (Trail Trip 5) leads to Yosemite via Mirror Lake.

~Tenaya Lake~ (Alt. 8141) is one of the gems of the High Sierra. It is a large, deep, glacial lake imposingly surrounded by granite crags and domes. Its Indian name, Py-we-ack, meant "lake of the glistening rocks," referring to the glacier polished granite at its upper end. The lake and the pyramidal peak to the east were renamed Tenaya when the last remnant of Chief Tenaya's Yosemite Tribe was captured here by the Mariposa Battalion on June 5, 1851. The lake is one of the best in the park for a permanent auto camp. It was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted, and steelhead in 1917, 1918, and 1919, but fishing is only fair. From the lower end of the lake the ~Forsyth Pass Trail~ (Trail Trip 6) bears eastward across the rocky meadows, and the ~Yosemite Trail~ (Trail Trip 5) takes off toward the southwest.

Our road skirts the western lake shore. At a point where ~Murphy Creek~ enters from the north are the ruins of a log cabin which was built by John L. Murphy, one of the early pioneer guides of the region. The ~McGee Lake Trail~ to ~Waterwheel Falls~ here turns off from the road. Rounding the polished base of ~Polly Dome~ (Alt. 9786) we finally halt at ~Tenaya Lake Lodge~ near the white beach at the lake's upper extremity. Accommodations are excellent and fishing tackle and rowboats may be rented.

At the head of the long flat canyon bottom is a peculiar glacial monument often mistaken for Polly Dome. Passing this, our road continues up the stream to its source, where the great Tuolumne Glacier overflowed and sent a branch southward to help carve out the stupendous depths of Tenaya Canyon.

~Tuolumne Meadows~ (Alt. 8594), the most superb of all high mountain pleasure grounds, lies seven and a half miles from Tenaya Lake. In the region are innumerable side trips to alpine summits, to lakes and streams teeming with trout, to thundering waterfalls, and to peaceful green pastures of the highlands. ~Tioga Pass~ (Alt. 9941) is seven miles further, and another sixteen miles takes us down Leevining Canyon to the weird semi-desert region at ~Mono Lake~. The road then continues northward to ~Lake Tahoe~ about 118 miles distant.

ROAD TRIP V

YOSEMITE TO HETCH HETCHY _via_ BIG OAK FLAT ROAD AND HETCH HETCHY RAILROAD

(Round trip 77 miles--1 day by motor and railroad)

A new and exceptionally scenic one-day round trip between Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy has been made possible by the construction activities on the San Francisco Dam. Throughout the entire season a gasoline railroad bus runs on daily schedule between Mather (Hog Ranch) and Hetch Hetchy, stopping long enough to allow one to view the wonderful canyon and to inspect the enormous engineering project. One may motor privately from Yosemite to Mather or may ride by the auto stage, which makes one round trip daily.

From Yosemite we follow the ~Big Oak Flat Road~ (Road Trips VI and IV) to the road junction one mile north of ~Carl Inn~, a resort on the ~South Fork of the Tuolumne River~. At this junction (23.4 miles from Yosemite) we turn to the left on the old ~Hog Ranch Road~, which bears to the northwest thru the pines of the Stanislaus National Forest.

The following six-mile drive to ~Mather~ is entirely thru delightful woods and meadows--a country quite attractive but with no startling scenic effects. At Mather is the ~Hog Ranch Ranger Station~, which is connected by telephone with Yosemite and outside points. Here we again enter ~Yosemite National Park~.

In the nine-mile rail-motor excursion to Hetch Hetchy we first traverse a dense pine forest for one mile and then, emerging at the rim of ~Tuolumne Canyon~, have a wonderfully scenic ride to our destination.

~Hetch Hetchy~ is a deeply sculptured Yosemite-like valley with the broad meadows of its level floor flanked by dominating castellated cliffs. Its most impressive feature is ~Kolana Rock~, a massive promontory buttressing the precipitous south wall. The two great waterfalls--~Tueeulala~, the spirit of gracefulness, and ~Wapama~, the very soul of power--tumble over the north ramparts at the upper end of the valley. Fortunate, indeed, will be the visitors of the next few seasons, for the great gorge will be as yet unflooded.

ROAD TRIP VI

YOSEMITE TO EL PORTAL _via_ EL CAPITAN ROAD

(15 miles--1-1/2 hours by stage)

The final hour in Yosemite National Park--that generally spent in the ride from the valley to El Portal--is one of interest, but it must be admitted, of anti-climax. Facing westward we lose the wonderful views which burst upon us in entering, but the trip, for all of that, is attractive. From Yosemite Village either the Bridalveil or the El Capitan Road may be followed. The former is the more scenic and is described as Road Trip VI-A. The latter is set forth in the following text.

Crossing ~Sentinel Bridge~ our poplar-bordered road bears northward across a wide meadow from which are magnificent views of ~Yosemite Falls~ and the ~Lost Arrow~ straight ahead, and ~North Dome~, ~Royal Arches~ and ~Half Dome~ to the right. At the Grizzly Hotel site a road forks eastward to Mirror Lake (Road Trip II). Turning westward beneath the giant black oaks of the meadow border, we soon pass the old Hutchings Orchard. The memorial bench at the left marks the spot from which Galen Clarke so loved to contemplate the beauty of "Cholook," the fall of falls. A little further are the wild azalia gardens of ~Yosemite Creek~. Just west of the rustic bridge a short branch road turns to the right to the foot of Yosemite Falls. We continue straight ahead, passing Yosemite Hospital at the right and then running beneath the arcade of ~Yosemite Lodge~. Just across the road is the swimming tank, the tennis courts, laundry, etc. The main buildings occupy the site of Koom-i´-ne, the largest and most important of the old Indian villages.

Bearing southward, we now round the base of ~Three Brothers~, the Waw-haw´-kee or "falling rocks" of the Indians. At the foot of the great buttress is ~Rocky Point~. The Yosemite tribes called the place We-äck (the rocks) because, according to their traditions, the huge boulders in the vicinity fell _upon_ their trail. It is among these boulders that Tenaya's three sons were captured in 1852, and the colossal monument above was named for them.

Swinging more directly westward, our road now skirts the base of ~El Capitan~, the Tote-ack-ah-noo-la or "rock chief" of the Indians. The image of their fanciful chief is to this day pointed out on the wall two thousand feet overhead, but he is now called "The Wandering Jew." In a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy Jeffrey pine 82.4 feet high and two feet in diameter. For half a mile we pass thru ~El Capitan Meadows~, where once were the Indian villages of Yu-a´-chah, Ha-eng´-ah, He-le´-jah and Aw´-o-koi-e. At certain times during the day the ~Cathedral Spires~ and ~Cathedral Rocks~ on the opposite side of the valley stand out in remarkable perspective, but under general light conditions this stereoscopic effect is entirely lacking.

Beyond El Capitan the ~Ribbon Fall~ may be seen, its dainty streamer gracefully descending into the rather harsh box-like recess in the canyon wall. Its Indian name was Lung-o-to-ko-ya, or "pigeon falls." A cross road to the left passes ~El Capitan Checking Station~ and crosses ~El Capitan Bridge~ to the ~Bridalveil Road~ south of the Merced (Road Trips I-A and VI-A). A few steps further along our route the ~Big Oak Flat Road~ turns to the right and ascends thru the shattered granite talus of the north canyon side. At this junction was the old Indian village of Hep-hep'-oo-ma.

Paralleling the Merced, we now and then are treated to glimpses of ~Bridalveil Fall~ dropping gracefully from its hanging valley and guarded at the left by ~Cathedral Rocks~ and at the right by the ~Leaning Tower~. Where our route traverses a small meadow is the site of another vanished village, We'-tum-taw. A short distance beyond is ~Black Spring~, which is but a few steps to the right of the road. The Yosemites called it Poot-poo-toon, and among the rocks surrounding it was a small community of the same name. Our road now bends gradually southward following the banks of the Merced. Across the stream is ~Bridalveil Meadow~ and an especially fine view of the ~Gates of the Valley~. A short distance further is ~Pohono Bridge~, where our road is joined by the ~Bridalveil Road~ (Road Trips I-A and VI-A) from the south side of the valley.

About a quarter of a mile westward is the old Mail Carrier's Cabin, the site of the ancient village of Ah-wah'-ma. Across the canyon the rugged ramparts of the south rim rise imposingly above and ~Meadow Brook~ pours over the edge to leap 1170 feet as ~Widow's Tears Fall~. A small dam in the Merced diverts water for the intake of the two thousand-watt generators of the new government power house just below the road. South of the river is a grotesque promontory which is well named Pulpit Rock.

At the two small bridges about one and a half miles further down the canyon we pass the foot of ~Cascade Falls~ which, during the flood waters of early spring, is one of the most attractive scenic features of the El Portal Highway. From these bridges is also the best view of ~Elephant Rock~, down the canyon. Less than a quarter of a mile further, ~Wildcat Falls~ pour over the cliff at the right. A short distance beyond, stage drivers often point out the image of a white Persian cat on the wall above the road. The old ~Coulterville Road~ now branches to the right and steeply ascends the canyon wall. This was the first road into Yosemite and was completed in 1874. Just below Elephant Rock is ~Battleship Harbor~, a placid reach of the Merced in which fancied granite dreadnaughts ride anchor.

A little more than a mile further down the canyon ~Grouse Creek~ tumbles over the south wall in a series of cascades. We now pass beneath ~Arch Rock~, a natural tunnel formed by two huge granite talus blocks. The trail bridge across the Merced, a short distance westward, is the crossing of the ~Sunset Trail~, which passes the mid-winter ranger station opposite and ascends past the foot of ~Avalanche Falls~ to the Wawona Road, 2500 feet above.

Two miles further down the canyon we pass out of the park and into the ~Stanislaus National Forest~ thru a region of gnarled oaks and silver-gray digger pines. During the early season ~Indian Creek~, across the canyon, forms the picturesque ~Chinquapin Falls~.

One mile below the park line is ~El Portal~, the terminus of the ~Yosemite Valley Railroad~. There is here a hotel and a small store. On the opposite slope is the incline of the Yosemite Lumber Company down which flat cars loaded with logs are lowered. From El Portal a four-hour ride by railroad takes us to ~Merced~.

ROAD TRIP VI-A

YOSEMITE VILLAGE TO POHONO BRIDGE _via_ THE BRIDALVEIL ROAD

(5 miles--20 minutes by stage)

The ~Bridalveil Road~ parallels the south bank of the Merced from Yosemite to Pohono Bridge, five miles westward. This route is more attractive and more scenic than the northern, or El Capitan Road, which is often taken by the stages.

From Yosemite Village we bear westward across the meadows. The ~Sentinel~ towers above at the left and in the distance are the portals of the valley. About one mile takes us past a Park Ranger's cabin near the spot where Galen Clarke's house stood until 1919. Just northward, at the edge of a big meadow, was once the Indian village of Hoo'-koo-me'-ko-tah.

A little further and directly under the Sentinel stand the remaining buildings of old Camp Awahnee, occupying the site of the large and important Indian community of Loi'-ah. The name, which means "a long water basket," was also the Yosemites' appellation for the great rock tower above. The ~Short Trail to Glacier Point~ here turns to the left and begins its zigzag course up the canyon wall. The ~Ford Road~, a subsidiary route branching to the right, leads to ~The Big Pine~, which is the largest known specimen of western yellow pine in the park. During the flood waters of early spring, ~Sentinel Falls~ descend in a picturesque cascade at the western flank of the great obelisk.

Again continuing westward, we are treated to charming vistas across the Merced. Especially effective from this angle is the great triple pyramid of ~Three Brothers~ buttressing the north wall. Just opposite them on the banks of the river was Kis´-se, the westernmost of the large Indian villages on the south or "coyote" side of the valley. To the west a splendid profile of ~El Capitan~ is revealed and suddenly at the left of the road the ~Cathedral Spires~, each rising 500 feet from its base, seem to tower above the south rim. The Yosemites called the latter Po-see´-na Chuck´-ah, or "mouse-proof rocks," from a fancied resemblance to their acorn caches. A village just below them in a small meadow near the river was called We´-sum-meh.

We now skirt the powerfully outlined ~Cathedral Rocks~. At ~El Capitan Bridge~ one may cross to the north side of the river. Directly opposite is a ranger station at the foot of the ~Big Oak Flat Road~ (Road Trip IV). From that point the ~El Capitan Road~ (Road Trips I and VI) leads both up and down the valley.

Continuing along the shaded highway, we veer to the south, passing close to the foot of ~Bridalveil Fall~, charming glimpses of which are here and there revealed between the trees. Just below a very large rock at the east margin of ~Bridalveil Creek~ is the site of the ancient village of Lem-me´-hitch´-ke. Perhaps the unspeakable awe with which the Yosemites were supposed to look upon Pohono, "the spirit of the evil wind," has been somewhat exaggerated in the past. A short subsidiary road turns to the left to the foot of the fall, a brief side trip which should be taken by all visitors.

A short drive now takes us to the junction with the ~Wawona Road~ (Road Trip III) which bears to the left at ~Bridalveil Checking Station~ and climbs thru the forests of the canyon-side. Turning to the right, we soon enter ~Bridalveil Meadow~. Near the river was once the Indian village of Sap-pah´-sam-mah. At the edge of the meadow, about 100 feet north of the road, a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, Rose and Shurban, who were massacred here by the Indians in 1852. The view back across the meadows towards the ~Gates of the Valley~ is one of the best from this elevation. At the left is the great shoulder of ~El Capitan~, with the ~Ribbon Fall~ almost hidden in a deep recess at its west. At the right of the portal the beautiful ~Bridalveil~ leaps gracefully from its hanging valley between ~Cathedral Rocks~ and the ~Leaning Tower~.

Plunging again into the deep woods, we stop for a draught of ice-cold water at ~Fern Spring~, and a short distance beyond emerge at the beautiful border of the Merced. Crossing ~Pohono Bridge~ we join the ~El Portal Road~. El Portal is ten miles westward via Road Trip VI, and Yosemite five miles eastward via Road Trip I.

YOSEMITE TRAILS

For an ideal vacation-land, Yosemite could scarcely be surpassed. Of the 600 miles of trails in the park probably half are within two days walking distance of the valley. It is this portion of the park which is described in the following trail trips--the region which may be seen on walking tours from the valley as a base camp.

For the person whose days in Yosemite are limited, Glacier Point undoubtedly offers the most attractive one-day excursion. It is reached by a number of trails, chief of which are the beautiful Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail, the steep but thrilling climb up the narrow Ledge Trail, and the dusty, toilsome ascent of the Short Trail. Most thrilling of all Yosemite Trails is the ascent of Half Dome, made possible by the recent construction of a cable-guarded route up its north shoulder. Further northeastward is the commanding summit of Clouds Rest, a long one-day round trip, but well repaid by a magnificent panorama of the High Sierra. North of the Yosemite walls the most comprehensive views may be had from Eagle Peak. The top of North Dome is also a vantage point of the first order, but the round trip is a long one-day climb. The summit of El Capitan, although exceedingly lofty, is rather disappointing except for the view over its rim into the abyss below. Sierra Point is but one hour's climb above the valley and offers an especially good panorama.

Many ideal two-day walking trips from Yosemite are made possible by accommodations at the lodges in the High Sierra. Chief among these excursions are the trips to Lake Tenaya, Tuolumne Meadows and Merced Lake. Other charming trails are described in the following text.

TRAIL TRIP 1

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS AND RETURN _via_ THE SHORT TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 2

(16 miles--8 hours)

If one were so time-poor as to have but one day in Yosemite, he should by all means climb to Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls and return via the Short Trail. This most scenic trip is easily made afoot in one day and should be taken as follows rather than in the opposite direction because (_a_) one faces the falls in ascending, and (_b_) the gradual ascent is less tiring. Early in the season it is a good plan to carry a sack or newspaper for protection while passing thru the mist of Vernal Falls.

The ~Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail~ starts near Happy Isles Bridge, 2.3 miles from Yosemite Village. The trail leaves the road at the right just beyond the bridge, or we may take the footpath through ~Happy Isles~, crossing the river on a foot-log and joining the main trail a quarter mile above. Ascending the canyon, the trail climbs 200 feet above the roaring Merced, which was here called by the Indians the "Yanopah" or "water cloud," referring to the mist of Vernal Falls. A quarter of a mile from the bridge is a fine spring. Here the ~Sierra Point Trail~ (Trail Trip 12) turns left. Rounding the base of ~Grizzly Peak~ we pass opposite the mouth of ~Illilouette Canyon~ and see ~Illilouette Falls~ (Drop 350 feet) at its head. The name is a corruption of the Indian name, Too-tool-a-we-ack. The small dam in the river below diverts water to the Happy Isles Power House. To the left of Illilouette Canyon is ~Panorama Cliff~, along the rim of which our trail runs after a three-hour climb by the Mist Trail (one hour longer by horse trail).

Descending 100 feet the trail crosses ~Vernal Bridge~, from which is a fine view of ~Vernal Falls~, a half mile distant. Near this point was the old Indian Camp of Ap´-poo-meh. Straight ahead the horse trail climbs 1600 feet and then descends to the top of Vernal Falls. Pedestrians should take the much more scenic ~Mist Trail~, which turns left just beyond the bridge, saving thereby one hour and several hundred feet climb. Paralleling the river we pass ~Lady Franklin Rock~, from whence may be obtained excellent photographs of Vernal Falls. The trail mounts thru the boulder-strewn forest and finally rounds a rocky point on a narrow ledge. Use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! We now enter the mist, traversing the luxuriant garden of flowers and grasses which gives the fall its name. Between 10 and 12 a.m. beautiful ~circular rainbows~ may be seen in the mist. Climbing the steep slope at the right we obtain fine profiles of the fall. The trail then swings beneath an overhanging cliff and mounts a steep narrow ledge to the top of ~Vernal Falls~ (Alt. 5049, Drop 317 feet). The Indians called the fall "Yan-o-pah," or "water cloud," which was also the name for the canyon below. Over the rim of the natural granite parapet we have an excellent outlook down the canyon. By climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a grotto, from which a good view of Glacier Point is obtained.

Above Vernal Falls we pass a glacial tarn called ~Emerald Pool~, at the upper end of which the Merced rushes down over smooth granite, forming the beautiful ~Silver Apron~ and ~Waterwheel~.

Just above is the ~Diamond Cascade~ and bridge. Our trail now joins the horse trail, which descends from the slope above. Crossing the river at Diamond Cascade, the trail ascends to ~Snow Flat~ below ~Liberty Cap~ (Alt. 7072), which towers above to the left. This granite dome, the Mah'-ta, or "Martyr Mountain" of the Indians, can be ascended by a difficult climb up its eastern flank. Good rock-climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and ~Mt. Broderick~ (Alt. 6705) just northward. At the left of the trail is the site of the old La Casa Nevada Hotel (The Snow House), which was built in the early days and burned down in 1897. The old register is in the Yosemite Museum. The rockslide to the left fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918. Fishing is fair from Diamond Cascade to Nevada Falls. The trail turns left and mounts 500 feet by the famous ~Nevada Falls Zigzags~. When white men first visited Yosemite, part of the Merced descended in a cascade where the trail is now built. At the top of the switchbacks the trail to ~Little Yosemite~, ~Clouds Rest~, ~Tuolumne Meadows~ and ~Merced Lake~ (Trail Trips 13, 5, 8 and 7) continues up the canyon. There is here a government telephone (Central 1 ring). The new location of a refreshment stand and rest house in the vicinity is indicated by a sign.

Our trail turns right and crosses a small bridge, thence turning southwest to the top of ~Nevada Falls~ (Alt. 5910, Height 594 ft.). Nevada is "snow" in Spanish and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we. Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful when painted by first rays of sunshine at 7.30 to 8 a.m. Many claim that, looking down from the rim, the Nevada is the valley's most fascinating and beautiful fall. Above this point the river was called by the Yosemite Tribe "Yo-wy-we-ack," or the "twisting rock" branch.

Crossing the river just above the falls, the trail climbs abruptly 700 feet by switchbacks. At the summit the ~Mono Meadow~ and ~Merced Pass Trail~ up ~Illilouette Creek~ turns left (Trail Trip 23). Our trail turns right and follows the rim of ~Panorama Cliff~ almost level for about one mile to ~Panorama Point~ (Alt. 6224). From here is a fine view of ~Royal Arches~, ~Washington Column~ and ~North Dome~ across the head of ~Yosemite Valley~, and of ~Half Dome~ and ~Grizzly Peak~ to the right. The trail descends 400 feet to the top of ~Illilouette Falls~ (Alt. 5850, Fall 370 ft.). Good fishing is reported in upper ~Illilouette Creek~. Exploration up this canyon will well repay those interested in glacial phenomena.

Climbing out of the ~Illilouette Canyon~, the trail runs north thru open forest. The fallen trees and prostrate bushes are caused by snow-slides from ~Illilouette Ridge~ above (Alt. 8250. Fine view from summit). As the trail climbs, the view of ~Mt. Starr King~, ~Mt. Clark~ and the ~High Sierra~ gradually unfolds. The trail joining from the south leads to ~Buena Vista Lake~ and ~Royal Arch Lake~ (Trail Trip 22). From one point in the ascent is an especially good profile of ~Half Dome~ across the canyon. Following along granite ledges the trail passes ~Glacier Point Hotel~ (Alt. 7200), from which is a most comprehensive panorama of the High Sierra. Accommodations are excellent and one should remain here over night if possible to see the sunrise. ~Glacier Point~ and the overhanging rock are about 200 yards beyond the hotel. This lookout point was called Patill'ima by the Yosemite Tribe. From here we obtain what is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring view readily accessible to tourists. The valley floor is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.

The descent from Glacier Point to Yosemite is generally made by the ~Short Trail~ (5 miles, 1-1/2 hour walk). From the hotel the trail follows westward along the canyon wall. Rounding a point we get an excellent profile view of the ~Gates of the Valley~ with ~Sentinel Rock at~ the left and ~El Capitan~ at the right. Descending 900 feet by switchbacks thru a forest of fir, sugar pine, yellow pine, Douglas fir and incense cedar, we reach ~Union Point~ (Alt. 6314--2350 feet above the valley floor). There is here a refreshment stand where cooling drinks and light lunches may be obtained. A short distance from the point is a shelter cabin and a government telephone (Central 1 ring).

Descending past ~Agassiz Column~, a huge balancing shaft of granite, the trail zigzags down the mountain side, emerging at several vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~Half Dome~ and the north end of the valley. The character of the forest now changes, oaks and laurel entering to replace the diminishing fir. The trail terminates at the foot of ~Sentinel Rock~ at the site of the old Camp Awahnee and the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Yosemite is 1.3 miles distant by road to the right. During the season a regular auto-bus service is maintained between this and other valley points.

TRAIL TRIP 2

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ THE SHORT TRAIL AND RETURN _via_ VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS

Reverse of Trail Trip 1

(16 miles--8 hours)

The Glacier Point excursion is a most scenic one-day trip and this is the most widely used of Yosemite trails. Parties are advised to take the reverse of this trip (Trail Trip 1) thereby obtaining views of the falls which are unnoticed on the down trip. The ascent is also more gradual and therefore less tiring.

The ~Short Trail to Glacier Point~ starts from the Bridalveil Road 1.3 miles west of Yosemite at the site of old Camp Awahnee and of the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Turning southward we ascend abruptly thru a dense forest of oak, mountain laurel, scattered pines, cedar and Douglas fir. As the trail climbs rapidly by switchbacks, broad-leaved trees disappear, their places being taken by sugar pines and true firs from above. Frequently the trail emerges at vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~Half Dome~ and the north end of the valley. A climb of 2350 feet takes us past a balancing shaft of granite, ~Agassiz Column~, to ~Union Point~ (Alt. 6314). At this fine view-point are a government shelter cabin and telephone (Central 1 ring.)

The remaining 900-foot climb to Glacier Point is thru a dense forest with some vast views to the northeast. A short level stretch near the end leads to ~Glacier Point~ (Alt. 7214). The view from the vicinity of the overhanging rock is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring sight readily accessible to tourists. The Yosemite Tribe called this lookout point Patill'ima. Yosemite is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.

The ~Glacier Point Hotel~ and cottages are but 200 yards distant. The panorama of the ~High Sierra~ from the hotel balcony is especially fine. Accommodations are excellent and it is recommended that the tourist remain over night if possible to see the sunrise.

Passing the hotel the trail descends gradually along granite ledges revealing a most impressive profile of ~Half Dome~ across the canyon. During the descent into the canyon of the Illilouette several patches of fallen trees and prostrate brush are passed. These are caused by the frequent snow slides from the ~Illilouette Ridge~ above (Alt. 8250. Fine view). At a trail forks, the ~Buena Vista Trail~ (Trail Trip 22) branches south up the ~Illilouette Canyon~. An abrupt descent by zigzags takes us to a point from which is obtained a good view of the lace-like ~Illilouette Fall~. The name is a corruption of the old Indian name Too-tool-a-we-ack. A few feet below we stop at the lip of the fall (Alt. 5850). The canyon above abounds in glacial phenomena and will well repay a side trip for those interested in geology. Fishing is good up the canyon.

A climb of 375 feet takes us to ~Panorama Point~ (Alt. 6224), from which is an imposing view of the upper end of the valley and the mouth of ~Tenaya Canyon~. To the right is the sheer edge of ~Panorama Cliff~, along which our trail now follows almost level for about a mile. In the canyon below can be seen our route of about two hours hence. At a trail forks the ~Mono Meadow~ and ~Merced Pass Trail~ (Trail Trip 23) turns right into the ~Illilouette Creek Basin~.

Now begins an abrupt descent of 700 feet by switchbacks to the ~Merced River~ which, above this point, was called by the Yosemite Tribe the Yo-wy-we-ack or "twisting rock" branch. A few steps from the bridge is the top of ~Nevada Falls~ (Alt. 5910, Drop 594 ft.). Nevada is Spanish for snow and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we. Many claim that the view from the overhanging ledge is the most fascinating water-vista of Yosemite. Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful when painted by the first rays of sunshine at 7:30 to 8 a.m.

About a quarter of a mile upstream the trail crosses a small bridge and is joined by the ~Clouds Rest~, ~Sunrise~, ~Lake Merced~ and ~Little Yosemite Trail~ (Trail Trips 5, 8, 7 and 13). Here is a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Fishing is good about two miles upstream in ~Little Yosemite~. In the following abrupt 500-foot descent by zigzags some fine profile views of ~Nevada Falls~ are obtained. When white men first visited Yosemite part of the Merced cascaded down the steep slope where the trail is now built. As the trail crosses ~Snow Flat~ at the foot of Nevada Falls, the ruins of the old "La Casa Nevada," or "Snow House," are seen at the right of the trail. The old register, which dates back to 1871, is in the Yosemite Museum. ~Liberty Cap~ (Alt. 7072), which the Indians called Mah'ta or "Martyr Mountain," towers above to the right. It may be ascended from the east and good rock climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and ~Mount Broderick~ (Alt. 6705) just northward. The talus of huge rocks above the trail fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918.

A bridge across the Merced takes us directly over the ~Diamond Cascade~. Below is the ~Silver Apron~. From the bridge upstream is fair fishing. A short distance beyond the crossing is a fork where the main or "horse trail" turns to the left and climbs 350 feet up the canyon wall in order to pass Vernal Falls. Pedestrians should turn to the right and take the far more scenic ~Mist Trail~, thereby saving a half hour and several hundred feet climb. Following down the river we pass the ~Silver Apron~ and ~Waterwheel~, below which is a perfect glacial tarn called ~Emerald Pool~. Near its mouth is the rim of ~Vernal Falls~ (Alt. 5049, Drop 317 ft.). From behind the natural breast-high granite parapet we have another excellent outlook. The fall was called by the Indians Yan-o-pah, or "water cloud," which term was also applied to the canyon below. By climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a ~grotto~, from which is a good view of ~Glacier Point~.

Nearer the fall the ~Mist Trail~ suddenly drops over the edge of the cliff and follows down a steep, narrow ledge which is well guarded by chains and iron posts. From here and from the zigzags just below we obtain excellent profiles of the fall. We now enter the mist, passing down thru a luxurious growth of grasses and flowers, which caused the fall to be given its present name. Between 10 and 12 a.m. the beautiful ~circular rainbows~ may here be seen. Use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! Following around the base of a cliff on a narrow ledge, the trail again enters a forest and parallels the river. We stop at ~Lady Franklin Rock~, where is obtained one of the best vistas of the falls (good photograph). A short distance downstream the two trails reunite just before crossing ~Vernal Bridge~, from which is a good distant view of the falls. In the canyon below was the old Indian camp of Ap´-poo-meh.

The trail now mounts about 200 feet above the riotous Merced and in rounding the base of ~Grizzly Peak~ offers a clear perception of the deep recess below ~Illilouette Falls~.

Again approaching the river we pass a spring and water trough where the ~Sierra Point Trail~ (Trail Trip 12) joins from the right. The ~Happy Isles Bridge~ on the main road is a quarter of a mile distant. We have the choice of descending by the main trail or crossing the foot-log to ~Happy Isles~, and thence by several bridges and footpaths to the main road.

The road to the right leads to Mirror Lake. We turn left. Camp Curry is one mile distant and Yosemite Village 2.3 miles.

TRAIL TRIP 3

YOSEMITE TO NORTH DOME _via_ YOSEMITE FALLS AND RETURN _via_ MIRROR LAKE

Reverse of Trail Trip 4

(19.5 miles--10 hours)

The ~North Dome~ trip is a strenuous one-day climb and should be taken as follows rather than Trail Trip 4, thus avoiding the hot ascent of the Mirror Lake zigzags. One should start early, reaching the top of the falls before the heat becomes excessive.

The ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ was built in the early days and operated as a toll trail. It leaves the road a short distance west of ~Yosemite Lodge~. In the first mile we ascend by sharp zigzags thru a shady grove of golden oak and laurel, emerging above into the open and climbing granite ledges to ~Columbia Point~ (Alt. 5031). From here is a splendid view, especially of the upper end of the valley. Turning north, the trail ascends a few feet and then follows along a granite ledge beautifully shaded by oaks, laurel, Douglas fir and pines. At the left of the trail about a quarter of a mile above Columbia Point is a spring. A short, rather steep descent takes us to ~Valley View~, a lookout point a short distance to the right of the trail, from which is an excellent view of the valley and the ~Upper Yosemite Fall~. Skirting the base of an almost perpendicular cliff at the left, the trail approaches the foot of the upper fall and bears to the left. From this point it is possible to leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, entering the cave under its base except during high water. The climb is dangerous because of slippery rocks.

By switchbacks the trail ascends the steep slope west of the falls, crossing a small stream after a quarter-mile climb. During the hour ascent of the zigzags, ~Mount Clark~ (Alt. 11,506), ~Gray Peak~ (Alt. 11,581) and other High Sierra summits may be seen to the southeast. Across the canyon are ~Glacier Point~ and ~Sentinel Dome~. At a trail junction 100 feet beyond the canyon rim is a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Here the ~Eagle Peak~ and ~Yosemite Creek Trails~ continue straight ahead (Trail Trips 9, 10 and 11). Our trail turns to the right and crosses a small stream. Just beyond, the main trail passes over a low rise. A branch to the left follows south along the open ridge for a short distance to the top of the falls. From the railed lookout point, peering into the chasm below we see what Muir describes as one of the most impressive phenomena of the valley. Retracing our route to the main trail and turning left, we cross ~Yosemite Creek~ and climb 300 feet on the further side, thence turning southward. A short trail to the rim takes us to ~Yosemite Point~ (Alt. 6935), from which is a vast view of the valley and the High Sierra. The granite spire at the right and just below is "Le Hammo," the Lost Arrow of one of the most beautiful Yosemite Indian legends.

Returning to the main trail we climb parallel to the eastern rim of the cliff. To the right are ~Castle Cliffs~ and the flat summit of ~North Dome~ beyond. After a climb of 400 feet the trail crosses a ridge and traverses a dense forest of fir and pine, descending 400 feet and crossing ~Indian Creek~. Directly south is ~Indian Canyon~, called by the Yosemite Tribe "Le Hamite," because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east side of the canyon.

The ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ is crossed a half mile beyond the main stream, and here the ~Snow Flat Trail~ continues upstream. Turning to the right, our trail passes thru a fir forest about one mile to ~Indian Ridge~, which it follows south over disintegrating granite and thru stunted forest to the rounded summit of ~North Dome~ (Alt. 7531). The view is most comprehensive and the sheer vertical wall of ~Half Dome~ gives an impression of massiveness nowhere else obtained. To the north of the trail near the summit is ~Slipper Rock~.

In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the right. Retracing our path up ~Indian Ridge~ it is possible to follow the trail back to the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Fork of Indian Creek~, and turn right on the ~Snow Flat Trail~, but the better and the shorter way is to follow the plain blazes which turn to the right about a half mile from the North Dome summit and just west of the crest of ~Indian Ridge~. Running thru a beautiful forest this trail joins the main ~Snow Flat Trail~ at the ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ just west of ~Indian Rock~.

It is also possible to leave the trail and follow up Indian Ridge from North Dome, gradually bearing to the right of ~Indian Rock~ and intersecting the main ~Mirror Lake Trail~ near the top of the zigzags.

Our trail follows up the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~, at the source of which the ~Porcupine Flat Trail~ branches to the left. The ~Mirror Lake Trail~ swings north of ~Indian Rock~, and descends east to a branch of ~Snow Creek~, passing ~Snow Creek Falls~. Further down Snow Creek is the junction with the ~Lake Tenaya Trail~ (Trail Trips 5 and 6). Turning right we further descend Snow Creek and pass over the rim of the canyon between ~Basket Dome~ (Alt. 7602) at the right and ~Mt. Watkins~ (Alt. 8235) at the left. In the next one and a half miles a descent of 2500 feet is made by 108 switchbacks to the floor of ~Tenaya Canyon~. Following down the canyon one mile, the trail joins the road at ~Mirror Lake~. Yosemite is three miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 4

YOSEMITE TO NORTH DOME _via_ MIRROR LAKE AND RETURN _via_ YOSEMITE FALLS TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 3

(19.5 miles--10 hours)

This is a strenuous one-day climb. The advantage of taking the trip as follows and seeing the sunrise at ~Mirror Lake~ is more than offset by physical penalty of climbing the hot and steep ~Tenaya Trail~ zigzags. The trip is better taken in the reverse direction (Trail Trip 3). If the following route is adhered to, it is best to leave Yosemite as early as possible, carrying a canteen which should be filled about three-quarters of a mile above Mirror Lake.

~Mirror Lake~ is three miles distant by road from Yosemite. Here our trail leaves the end of the road and skirts the west shore. Following up the canyon beneath the dense forest about one mile we suddenly turn left and start the 2500-foot ascent. From the 108 switchbacks are many fine views. After a long, tiresome climb the trail passes over the canyon rim between ~Mt. Watkins~ (Alt. 8235) at the right and ~Basket Dome~ (Alt. 7602) at the left. A short distance takes us to ~Snow Creek~, which cascades beautifully further down its rough canyon. Turning upstream we soon arrive at a trail fork where the ~Tenaya Lake Trail~ (Trail Trip 6) turns right. We turn left, following up the west branch about a mile further. In high water ~Snow Creek Falls~ is especially attractive. The trail now makes a wide detour to the north of ~Indian Rock~ (Alt. 8526). If desirable, pedestrians may leave the trail and climb to its summit, from which are good views, thence following south down the long open ridge to the summit of ~North Dome~.

The trail keeps at a lower elevation, passing thru almost level fir forests and meadows with a charming diversity of wild-flowers and trees. Gradually bearing southward our trail follows down the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ from its source. The main ~Snow Flat Trail~ continues down this stream, but we turn left on the plainly blazed ~cut-off trail to North Dome~. Passing thru the dense forests on the west flank of ~Indian Ridge~, we finally emerge on the open disintegrated granite at the crest of the long slope leading southward to North Dome. Here the ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ joins from the west. The rounded summit of ~North Dome~ (Alt. 7531) is now easily reached by a walk thru the open forest and over granite pavements, which here exhibit very well the geological phenomenon of exfoliation or weathering in concentric shells. Near the summit and to the north of the trail is ~Slipper Rock~. From the top is a vast outlook, especially westward toward the ~Gates of the Valley~ and eastward where the great wall of ~Half Dome~ dominates the entire landscape. The floor of ~Yosemite Valley~ is partly hidden by the projecting ~Royal Arch Cliff~. Daring rock climbers who have made the descent to the edge describe this dizzy precipice as one of the most impressive in the park.

In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the left. Retracing our path for about half a mile up ~Indian Ridge~, we turn westward. One mile more thru dense forest takes us past a small stream and to the ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~, where the main ~Snow Flat Trail~ joins from upstream. The steep canyon below was called "Le Hamite" by the Yosemite Indians because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east wall of the canyon.