Chapter IV: Part 4

~Buena Vista Lake~ (see Trail Trip 22) is about four miles distant and may be reached by walking southeast about two miles through open forest (no trail) on the north slope of Horse Ridge and joining the ~Buena Vista Trail~ in ~Buena Vista Canyon~. Here we may turn south up the canyon, at the head of which is Buena Vista Lake.

TRAIL TRIP 21

GLACIER POINT TO CHILNUALNA FALLS OR JOHNSON LAKE _via_ THE BUCK CAMP TRAIL

(15.5 miles--6 hours)

The old ~Buck Camp Trail~ connects Yosemite with the favorite hunting grounds of the Chowchilla Tribe. It traverses a beautifully wooded country but offers no startling scenic effects.

From ~Glacier Point~ we follow the road southwestward about six miles to a junction, where our trail branches to the left. Bearing southward we cross a small stream and traverse a rather flat lodgepole pine forest, finally fording ~Bridalveil Creek~. Just beyond, and at a distance of about two miles from the road, the ~Ostrander Lake Trail~ (Trail Trip 20) turns to the left. We continue southward, crossing a tributary of Bridalveil Creek and gradually mounting the slope beyond. As the trail turns southeast along the flat ridge, the wooded canyon of ~Alder Creek~ is seen to the west. Two miles further on an almost imperceptible pass is traversed. Just beyond is the source of one of the northern tributaries to ~Chilnualna Creek~. This we follow for about two miles to the main stream, where are good camp sites and abundant forage. Fishing is fair but the trout are small. One mile further is the main ~Chilnualna Falls Trail~. Westward one and a half miles is the ~Chilnualna Ranger Station~, with good camp sites in the vicinity, and a half mile further is the top of ~Chilnualna Falls~. The trail eastward leads to ~Grouse Lake~ (two miles), ~Crescent Lake~ (three and a half miles) and ~Johnson Lake~ (four and a half miles).

TRAIL TRIP 22

GLACIER POINT TO JOHNSON LAKE via THE BUENA VISTA TRAIL

(16 miles--7 hours)

This is a good new trail and is the most direct route between Glacier Point and the excellent fishing lakes of the southern part of the park. The one-way trip is an easy day's journey from Glacier Point. For those walking from Yosemite there are good camp sites and excellent fishing _en route_ at Buena Vista and Royal Arch Lakes.

From ~Glacier Point~ we follow the main ~Vernal-Nevada Falls Trail~ about two miles. Just east of ~Illilouette Ridge~ we take the right branch and continue southeastward up the canyon of the Illilouette. About three miles takes us to another trail junction. To the west is ~Mono Meadow~, about one and a half miles distant, and to the northeast, crossing ~Illilouette Creek~, are the ~Merced Pass Trail~ (Trail Trip 23) and the cut-off trail to the rim of ~Panorama Cliff~.

Our trail continues up ~Illilouette Creek~, finally crossing a low "hog back" and turning south up ~Buena Vista Creek~. In a glacial cirque at its head is ~Buena Vista Lake~ (Alt. 9200). The south, or upper side is backed by a rugged rock bluff from which huge boulders have fallen into the water, making an excellent place from which to fish. The lake was stocked with eastern brook trout in 1892, 1908 and 1919, and with rainbow trout in 1892. It is one of the park's best and most accessible fishing lakes. Surrounded by open parks of timber, it offers many beautiful camp sites, especially near the outlet. Forage is fair downstream from the lake but is rather scarce early in the season. Ostrander Lake is four miles northeast and can be reached by foot. There are no blazes or monuments to mark the route.

Our trail now mounts abruptly 400 feet to ~Buena Vista Pass~ (Alt. 9600). To the right about half a mile is ~Buena Vista Peak~ (Alt. 9600), and to the left and running east is ~Buena Vista Crest~. Excellent views are obtained from the trail as it crosses the open ridge. Near the summit the granite has fractured perpendicularly, forming regular rectangular slabs.

An 800-foot descent thru the open forest in the next two miles takes us to the picturesque little ~Royal Arch Lake~ (Alt. 8800). This is a small lake, deep on the north and east sides, and shallow near the southwest margin. It is named from the arches in the steep northeast granite wall, which are similar to the Royal Arches of Yosemite Valley but on a smaller scale. The lake was well stocked with eastern brook trout in 1897 and fishing is excellent, especially in the deep water along the rocky northwest shore. There are fine camp sites here and good horse-feed.

Skirting the west margin of the lake our trail follows the small stream about one mile to the main ~Chilnualna Trail~. Eastward is ~Buck Camp~ (two miles), ~Moraine Meadows~ (seven miles), and ~Fernandez Pass~ (eleven miles). We turn westward to ~Johnson Lake~ (Alt. 8550), about a quarter mile distant. This is a small, round, deep lake beautifully set in meadows and forest. It is bountifully stocked with eastern brook trout and rainbow trout. The locality is ideal for camping. Further westward are ~Crescent Lake~ (one mile), ~Grouse Lake~ (two and a half miles), and ~Chilnualna Falls~ (six and a half miles).

TRAIL TRIP 23

YOSEMITE OR GLACIER POINT TO MORAINE MEADOWS _via_ THE MERCED PASS TRAIL

(From Yosemite, 22 miles--10 hours. From Glacier Point, 18 miles--7 hours)

The ~Merced Pass Trail~ has been replaced to a large extent by the more scenic and better built Buena Vista Trail, which offers a short-cut to the splendid fishing lakes in the upper basin of the South Fork of the Merced. For those whose destination is the wild country at the headwaters of the San Joaquin River, the Merced Pass Trail is still the preferable route. The upper basin of Illilouette Creek abounds in glacial phenomena and fishing is reported good.

From Yosemite we follow the ~Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail~ (Trail Trip 1) as far as the rim of ~Panorama Cliff~ just above Nevada Falls. Here we turn to the right on the ~Mono Meadow Trail~, which bears due south four miles to the main stream of ~Illilouette Creek~. To reach this point from ~Glacier Point~ one should follow the ~Vernal-Nevada Falls Trail~ (Trail Trip 2) for two miles, turn to the right on the ~Buena Vista Trail~ (Trail Trip 22), and after three miles more turn to the left on the ~Mono Meadow Trail~. A short distance will take one to the banks of ~Illilouette Creek~.

At this point--twelve miles from Yosemite and five and a half miles from Glacier Point--the ~Merced Pass Trail~ turns eastward, following for ten miles up the main stream of the Illilouette and keeping always within a short distance of its north bank. Gradually ascending to an elevation of 9295 feet, we traverse ~Merced Pass~. To the right is the long ridge of ~Buena Vista Crest~ (Alt. 9712). A descent of 600 feet in the next two miles takes us to ~Moraine Meadows~. This is a splendid camping region with abundant horse-feed and good fishing. Nearby will be found a summer ranger outpost. A trail to the east leads to ~Fernandez Pass~ and the headwaters of the ~San Joaquin~; one to the southeast to ~Chain o' Lakes~, where is most excellent fishing; and one to the west to ~Royal Arch~, ~Johnson~, ~Crescent~ and ~Grouse Lakes~ and ~Chilnualna Falls~.

TRAIL TRIP 24

WAWONA ROAD TO EL PORTAL _via_ THE SUNSET TRAIL

(4 miles--1-1/2 hours)

This is a cut-off trail widely used by the Park Rangers in their winter patrols but seldom used by the public.

Starting from the ~Wawona Road~ one and a half miles northwest of ~Chinquapin~, the trail runs down the ridge on the north side of ~Indian Creek~. Swinging to the north, the trail passes just west of ~Lookout Point~, from which is a fine view down the canyon of the Merced. Bearing to the right, it descends to ~Avalanche Creek~, where it passes just below ~Cougar Falls~. The trail then zigzags down the canyon wall to the midwinter ranger station and trail bridge across the ~Merced River~, joining the ~El Portal Road~, about three miles above El Portal.

TRAIL TRIP 25

WAWONA ROAD TO EL PORTAL _via_ THE HENNESSY TRAIL

(10 miles--4 hours)

The ~Hennessy Trail~ is no longer used by the public since the bridge across the Merced at its lower end was washed away in 1917. Use the Sunset Trail (Trail Trip 24).

SUNSET PUBLISHING HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO