Chapter VI (2)

=Treatment.=--Box stall free from draughts; plenty of fresh air; blanket body; rub and bandage legs twice a day; plenty of drinking-water near at all times; rub affected side with liniment (2 oz. olive oil, 1 oz. tincture of cantharides, 1 oz. solution of ammonia), and repeat in four or five days. If weather not too cold and great care can be taken, first apply closely to chest, every half hour for four or five hours, a blanket wrung out of hot water, and wrap a dry one over it; afterwards rub on the above liniment, and cover closely with a blanket. Do not use mustard. No purgatives, but give laxative diet, scalded oats, bran, and linseed mashes. If necessary, give enemas of warm water three or four times a day.

Every six hours give solution of acetate of ammonia 3 oz., spirits of nitrous ether 1 oz., bicarbonate of potassium 3 drams, water 1 pint. If this cannot be done, put 3 drams bi-carbonate of potassium into every bucketful of water he will drink.

Give every three hours during fever 1 dram quinine in capsule, or mixed with a little linseed meal and molasses.

If much debilitated, 6 oz. whiskey in 1 pint of water every four or five hours.

PURGING.

In cases of excessive purging, either from disease or an overdose of medicine, use extract of catechu 1 dram, cinnamon 1 dram, powdered opium ½ dram. This may be repeated two or three times a day, thick wheaten gruel being given at the same time.

PUNCTURES FROM SHOEING.

=Symptoms.=--If inflammation be present, the foot will be very hot, and when standing still the animal continually rests it or moves it about uneasily and is afraid to put his weight on it. If tapped with a hammer on the spot, or if the sole and wall at the part be pressed by pincers, suffering is manifested.

=Treatment.=--Remove shoe; pare sole over injury until quite thin; make opening between sole and wall with a small drawing-knife across the track of the nail to relieve pressure and form an exit for matter; then put foot in bucket of hot water for an hour or so, and afterwards hot poultice. When lameness has disappeared, reshoe, leaving out nail at injured point and filling up the cavity with tar and tow.

QUITTOR.

=Symptoms.=--In all cases in which matter forms in the foot, whether from pricks, corns, or bruises, unless it has free opening to escape by it acts as an irritant, extending in every direction in sinuses, and finally works its way to the coronet, where it bursts and forms a fistulous sore.

=Treatment.=--Foment; apply poultice; when abscess opens, keep washed with carbolic acid. Keep open until internal disease is thoroughly eradicated; then keep clean with cold water and dress with sulphate of copper, iron, or zinc, 5 grains of either to 1 oz. of water; or carbolic acid 20 drops in glycerine 20 drops, and added to 1 oz. of water. For treads or wounds on coronet between hair and hoof, and when the sore has become healthy in case of quittor, a good treatment is common turpentine and hog's lard, equal parts melted together. Spread on tow and bind on wound with bandage.

RINGWORM.

=Symptoms.=--This contagious disease is due to the presence of a parasite in the skin, and is manifested by the hair falling out in circular patches.

=Treatment.=--Dress patches with blistering ointment (powdered cantharides 1 part, lard 6 parts), or with tar dressing as for mange.

RHEUMATISM.

A peculiar form of inflammation attacking the fibrous structures of the body.

=Treatment.=--Laxative food; 6 drachms of aloes, 1 drachm of calomel, as a cathartic; 1 oz. bicarbonate of soda, followed daily by a dose half that amount with ½ oz. nitrate of potash; if these fail, give 2 drachms of iodide of potassium in addition. Foment with hot water to which poppy-heads have been added, dry thoroughly, and apply flannel bandages. Clothe warmly. Keep quiet.

SAND-CRACK.

=Symptoms.=--A split in the wall of the hoof commencing on top near the coronet and extending downward.

=Treatment.=--Apply bar-shoe and use hoof ointment (tar and lard, equal parts, melted together). If the animal be lame, remove shoe and immerse the foot in a bucket of hot water for an hour or two, and then poultice.

SCURVY.

=Symptoms.=--Eruptions and itching, often in the bend of the knee, the hock, or mane and tail.

=Treatment.=--Apply ointment (iodide of sulphur 1 drachm, glycerine 6 oz.); give carbonate of soda 1 oz. twice a day; ½ oz. Fowler's solution of arsenic twice a day. Mild laxative food.

SORES.

=Symptoms.=--Sores on back, withers, or shoulders are ordinarily due to recent swellings from blows or injuries of some kind.

=Treatment.=--Sulphate of zinc 4 drachms, cold water 1 quart; apply by washing or with wetted bandages. Or first cleanse a healthy sore with soap and water, then apply sulphur 3 parts, iodoform 1 part.

SPRAINS.

Sprains consist in an overstretching of a muscle, tendon, or ligament to such a degree as to rupture some of the fibres of which it is composed. They are divided into _muscular sprains, tendonous sprains, and ligamentous sprains_.

Muscular sprains usually occur in the powerful muscles of the loins and quarters; they are serious and often permanent injuries.

Tendonous sprains are the most common, and the flexor tendons of the fore legs are most frequently affected.

Ligamentous sprains are serious injuries, and may occur in any of the numerous ligaments belonging to the joints of the body. The principles of treatment are the same as for tendons.

=Symptoms.=--Sprains of tendons and ligaments are manifested by heat, swelling, pain on manipulation, and lameness.

=Treatment.=--First reduce the inflammation by rest and constant use of hot fomentations. If the sprain be severe and at the rear part of the fore or hind leg, raise the heel of the shoe on the affected leg an inch or more.

All traces of the inflammation having disappeared, apply cold water and linen bandages, and give a little slow exercise. Should the swelling show no signs of subsiding, or the lameness continue after long and careful treatment, firing may be considered, but should only be undertaken by a skilful surgeon. The diet should be laxative.

SPRAINS OF BACK AND LOINS.

=Treatment.=--Rest; keep bowels open with warm bran mashes and a dose of Glauber salts (½ to 1 lb. sulphate of soda); also 1 drachm acetate of potassa twice a day for ten days. Treat externally with hot fomentations, or blister if necessary.

STRANGLES.

=Symptoms.=--Sick and off feed, with possibly slight catarrh and feverish symptoms; abscess forms between bones of lower jaw or elsewhere in the group of lymphatic glands; sore throat; difficulty in swallowing; slobbers; unthriftiness; staring coat; loss of condition; dulness and languor.

=Treatment.=--Place in cool box with plenty of fresh air; support strength by nutritious food; all kinds of soft and macerated food are good; if constipated, give laxative food and enemas, but no strong purgative must be used; if necessary, ½ pint of linseed-oil, repeated in 24 hours if required. Tonics, such as 20 grains of quinine, or 1 oz. ground gentian, or 1 teaspoonful sulphate of iron, three times a day.

Bring swelling to a head by a poultice of flaxseed, carrots, or turnips. If suffocation be threatened, a tube must be placed in the windpipe. This should be done by a skilful surgeon.

SUNSTROKE.

=Symptoms.=--Manifested suddenly. Animal stops, drops his head, begins to stagger, and soon falls to the ground unconscious. The breathing is with great stertor, pulse very slow and irregular, cold sweats in patches.

_In heat exhaustion_ the animal usually requires urging for some time previous to the appearance of any other symptoms; generally perspiration is checked, and then he becomes weak in his gait; breathing hurried or panting; eyes watery and bloodshot; nostrils dilated and highly reddened, assuming a dark purple color; the pulse is rapid and weak, the heart bounding, followed by unconsciousness and death.

=Treatment.=--Blood-letting is forbidden. Apply ice or very cold water to the head and along the spine for sunstroke, but in case of _heat exhaustion_ apply cloths wrung out of hot water.

The following applies to both cases: Give ½ oz. carbonate of ammonia or 6 oz. of whiskey in a pint of water; injections per rectum, of moderately strong ginger-tea or weak ammonia-water; brisk friction of the limbs and the application of spirits of camphor. Repeat stimulants in an hour if pulse has not become stronger and slower. When reaction has occurred and during convalescence, tonics may be given: sulphate of iron 1 drachm, gentian 3 drachms, red cinchona-bark 2 drachms; mix and give in the feed night and morning.

SWEENY.

=Symptoms.=--Consists of a sprain of the muscles covering the outer surface of the shoulder-blade, in consequence of which they become wasted, leaving their place hollow.

=Treatment.=--Feed muscle-making food and give moderate exercise. Apply from time to time a mild blister (powdered cantharides 1 part, olive-oil 12 parts.)

SWELLED LEGS.

Swelled legs are more often due to general debility than to any other cause, though it may arise from lack of exercise, wet or filth, or neglected cases of grease or scratches.

=Treatment.=--Hand-rub; bandage the legs; warm clothing; gentle exercise; generous diet if the animal be poor; mild dose of physic in some cases (½ pint of linseed-oil). Vegetable and mineral tonics are useful in some cases.

THRUSH.

=Symptoms.=--Arises from neglect and want of use. Manifests itself under the form of an acrid, strong-smelling, unhealthy secretion issuing from the sensitive frog through the cleft of the insensitive frog; most common in hind foot.

=Treatment.=--Cleanse and keep clean both feet and where the animal stands. After cleansing foot gently thrust to the bottom of the cleft a piece of fine tow saturated with 1 part carbolic acid, 20 parts water, and then cover with dry tow. Repeat night and morning for a few days and then dress with calomel and dry tow. Keep frog free from dirt and moisture.

URINE, RETENTION OF.

=Symptoms.=--Uneasiness, distress, anxiety of countenance; if relief is not soon obtained, pulse becomes quick and hard, and ultimately imperceptible; stretching out in endeavor to void urine; lies down and rises up frequently; clammy sweats.

=Treatment.=--Place fresh straw under animal; pouring water may produce sympathetic action; steady pressure of the hand, passed through the anus, on the fundus of the bladder may accomplish result; rub belly, or wash out sheath thoroughly if caused by dirt; 2 ounces sweet spirits of nitre in pint of water, or 1 pint linseed-oil and afterwards opium 1½ drachms, camphor 2½ drachms; repeat in 1 or 2 hours if necessary. If necessary to pass a catheter, the hand well oiled is passed up the sheath, the penis grasped and gently brought forward and held by an assistant; the catheter, well oiled, is then introduced and carefully pushed forward, and when it reaches the perinæum it should be guided forward and upwards by gentle pressure of the fingers.

URINE, NON-RETENTION OF.

=Symptoms.=--Besides excessive staling there is extreme thirst, dry skin, rough, staring coat, digestion usually out of order.

=Treatment.=--Change diet; give 1 drachm iodide of potassium in 10 oz. water daily between meals.

WARBLES.

=Symptoms.=--Recent soft swellings or tumors arising from inflammation of the skin due to friction or undue pressure.

=Treatment.=--Remove cause by not permitting the saddle or collar to touch it, and treat with salt water. Try to disperse, but if necessary to open it do so fully and touch with caustic. Then use cold-water dressings.

WARTS.

=Treatment.=--When small, remove by scraping surface and dressing with chloride of zinc; if large, remove with knife, and if necessary touch with hot iron. If without appreciable base, apply a paste of sulphur and sulphuric acid until it sloughs and then dress as an ordinary wound.

WORMS.

=Treatment.=--2 oz. turpentine in a pint of linseed-oil. The most effectual treatment is to administer daily for ten days or two weeks 2 drachms sulphate of iron and then give a dose of physic; change diet; tonic.

WOUNDS.

Simple wounds demand little attention other than cleanliness.

_First._--Suppress hemorrhage by cold applications with pressure. If the bleeding be profuse, continuous, and of a bright red color, apply pressure to trunk of artery higher up leg (if leg is injured) than the wound, i.e., apply between wound and heart. Tie a flat web, cord, or handkerchief loosely around the leg, lay a pad formed of another handkerchief immediately above the artery, pass a stick through the loop on opposite side of leg to pad and turn it around so as to twist loop tightly. A plug of cotton, tow, sponge, or rag made into conical shape with point of cone toward bleeding orifice is also useful; remove clots of blood, apply plug and retain it by rags, tow, etc. In large, gaping wounds the finger or even the closed fist may be effectually employed until assistance arrives.

Cold water, ice, tar, perchloride of iron, felt, wool, spider's web, etc., may all be employed with more or less effect in stopping bleeding.

_Second._--Remove all foreign matter, dirt, splinters of wood or bone, bullets, etc., as far as possible, by allowing lukewarm water to stream over wound from the mouth of a vessel; or a piece of sponge or tow may be pressed on some part above the wound so that the water may trickle over it; but the abraded part is not to be touched except in the removal of foreign substances by forceps or otherwise. Then use cold-water dressings; apply soothing applications, watery solution of opium, carbolic acid lotion, tincture of arnica, or simple ointment.

Hot fomentations may be used after cleansing to reduce inflammation.

Compress and bandage are preferable to stitches in bringing the parts together; the former to be used after the inflammation begins to subside, and the latter not until all inflammation has disappeared.

The lowest end of the wound must be kept open to permit the escape of matter during healing; this is usually accomplished by inserting a piece of dry lint between the edges of the wound. General treatment is rest and low diet.

_Third._--During healing-stage dress with carbolic acid 1 part, water 20 parts; or carbolized oil; or bluestone (sulphate of copper) dissolved in water, 2 drachms to the pint; or tar ointment (tar 1 oz., sulphur ½ oz., lard 1½ oz.); or light blister of cantharides (powdered cantharides 1 part, olive-oil 12 parts) to neighboring parts in case of indolent wound. If proud flesh crops out above the surface of the wound, remove it by applying sulphate of copper or zinc (as above), or nitrate of silver, or alum, in order to keep it below the surface of skin, so that the parts may unite.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR SHOEING HORSES.

In preparing the horse's foot for the shoe do not touch with the knife the frog, sole, or bars. In removing surplus growth of that part of the foot which is the seat of the shoe use the cutting-pincers and rasp, and not the knife. The shoeing-knife may be used, if necessary, in fitting the toe-clip. Opening the heels or making a cut into the angle of the wall at the heel must not be allowed. The rasp may be used upon this part of the foot when necessary, and the same applies to the frog. No cutting with a knife is permitted, the rasp alone being used when necessary. Flat-footed horses should be treated as the necessity of each case may require. In forging the shoe to fit the foot be careful that the shoe is fitted to and follows the circumference of the foot clear around to the heels; the heels of the shoe should not be extended back straight and outside of the walls at the heels of the horse's foot, as is frequently done. The shoe must not be fitted too small and the outer surface of the walls then rasped down to make the foot short to suit the shoe, as often happens. Heat may be used in preparing and shaping the shoe, but the hot shoe must never be applied to the horse's foot. Make the upper or foot surface of the shoe perfectly flat so as to give a level bearing. A shoe with a concave ground surface should be used.

In garrison, at the discretion of the commanding officer, the horses may be left unshod. Shoes will be fitted and kept ready to be put on the horses.

The new Burden shoe called the "easy" has just been adopted as the U. S. service shoe.

Never use a nail that gives the slightest indication of splitting, a result that may be expected if they be cold-forged.

Always use a hot-forged nail. The Putnam nail, hot-forged, is excellent.

STABLES AND STABLE DUTIES.

Foul air and dampness are the cause of many diseases of the horse; hence the importance and economy of spacious, clean, dry, and well-ventilated stables. Ceilings should be twelve or fifteen feet high, with large ventilators through the roof, and a window or side aperture in each stall, which should be placed well above the horse's eyes. If possible, the building should have no upper story or loft. In stables with a loft, ventilation from the top is always insufficient, and there must be side openings well above the horses, so that the draught will pass over their heads. These openings must never be closed except on the windward side, to keep out rain or snow.

There should be a passageway for feeding in front of the stalls, and so that the horses can look to the right and left. Their heads should never be placed against a partition if it can be avoided.

Double stalls should not be less than 4½ feet by 9 feet to each horse; and single stalls should be 5 feet wide. Stalls 6 feet wide and 10½ feet long are greatly to be preferred. Not less than 1200 cubic feet should be allowed to each horse in the stable.

A picket-line is established in the immediate vicinity of the battery stable, the horses being tied to a hemp or wire rope or chain passed through the picket-posts. There should be shallow trenches behind the horses to carry off rain, the ground on which they stand having just enough slope to let the water run into the trenches, or there may be a single drain in the centre along the line of the picket-posts. Constant attention must be paid to maintaining the ground about the picket-line in good order.

=Hut Stables.=--Rough sheds with clapboarded roofs are the best; with the litter and some wet earth good walls can soon be constructed around the shed; these walls should be vertical on the inside, but with a good slope toward the outside. Sheds made 30 feet wide can accommodate two rows of horses, their heads being turned toward one another. Plenty of openings must be left for doors by which to remove the horses quickly in case of fire, and drainage must be well attended to. The stalls, or standing-space, should be 5 feet wide and 9 feet long.

An excellent shed can be made under the lee of a bank by erecting forked poles, placing connecting pieces, and laying thereon boards or poles and thatching.

GENERAL RULES FOR STABLE MANAGEMENT.

The stable sergeant takes immediate charge of the police and sanitary condition of the stable, picket-line, etc., and is the custodian of the forage and stable property generally.

The stable is to be kept thoroughly policed, free from smells, and well whitewashed. There must be no accumulation of manure or foul litter inside, or near the doors or windows without. The feed-boxes are washed out frequently and kept perfectly clean. The ground about the picket-line is swept daily and all dung, etc., carried to the manure-heap.

Except at night, when the horses are bedded down, no manure or urine is to remain in the stalls; the stable police remove it as fast as it accumulates.

If practicable, all woodwork within reach of the horses and not protected with sheet iron or other metal is painted with thin gas-tar, to prevent its being gnawed; it should be thoroughly dried before putting horses near it. The same precaution must be followed with regard to troughs, picket-posts, and hemp picket-line.

Smoking in stables or in their immediate vicinity is prohibited.

One or more lamps will be hung in each stable, to burn during the night.

The horses are stalled according to their positions in the battery, the teams nearest the door being led out first; their places at the picket-line will be in accordance with the same rule.

The name of each horse, and that of his rider or driver, are placed over his stall.

Clay is the best for earthen floors, as it packs well. Gravel or sandy earth is not suitable. Each man is held responsible for the removal of the earth and the levelling of the floor of his stall.

The sloping of the floor of stalls from the manger to the heel-post is injurious and uncomfortable for the animal, who stands in an unnatural position, with the fore legs higher than the hind ones. When earthen floors are not level, they give more trouble, as the horse will paw a hollow for his fore feet unless he can elevate his hind legs by backing out of the stall.

Whenever the horses go out of the stable, the windows of their stalls are to be kept open, unless necessary to exclude rain or snow, or when cold draughts affect the animals in contiguous or opposite stalls.

Stable doors are never closed in the daytime except to keep out the wet or to exclude cold winds. If the doors be in a single piece, bars are put across the doorway; if divided in half, it will be usually sufficient to open the upper part. At night, except in very hot weather, they should be closed and locked, communication with the stable being kept up by a manhole.

Except in very cold, windy weather, or in very hot weather, where there is no shade, horses should stand most of the day at the picket-line, as they have better air and are less confined, while the stables become drier and more healthful.

In ordinary climates military stables must be kept as cool as possible. If the horses do not stand directly in the draught, the colder the stable the less will they suffer if suddenly called to take the field. For the same reason horses should never be blanketed in the stable except in very cold weather in high latitudes.

STABLE DUTY.

The captain is responsible for the proper performance of stable duty in his battery.

At morning stable-call the cannoneers, assisted by the prisoners, clean out the stalls and police the stable under the direction of the stable sergeant. The bedding is taken up, that which is much soiled being separated for the manure-heap, and the remainder put on the racks or spread upon the ground to dry. If necessary, the drivers assist after they have done grooming.

At evening stable-call the stable is policed as in the morning; the bedding is laid down and fresh straw spread on top of it; the bed must be soft and even, with the thickest part toward the manger.

Horses are groomed twice daily, at morning and at evening stable-calls, under the supervision of the first sergeant and battery officer of the day. In special circumstances it may be advisable to groom only once, about noon.

The grooming is always at the picket-line, except in stormy weather.

Each driver, whether on guard or not, grooms his own horses, under the superintendence of his chief of section. Supernumerary horses are groomed by a detail of cannoneers under the direction of a corporal, who is assigned to this duty. In each platoon the horses of the chiefs of section are groomed by a cannoneer, who is permanently detailed, both horses being attached for grooming purposes to the section to which the cannoneer belongs. The trumpeters groom their own horses under the direction of the first sergeant.

At evening stable-call each man examines and cleans out his horse's feet, and sees that the shoes are in good order. Horses requiring shoeing are reported to the proper non-commissioned officer, who notifies the stable sergeant.

Each horse should be groomed not less than twenty minutes, beginning with the near horse. If any horses are not properly groomed they will be left at the picket-line, and groomed by their drivers under the direction of a non-commissioned officer of the guard.

In garrison, when there are no available prisoners, two or more men, called the stable police, are usually kept at work between morning and evening stable-calls in removing manure, policing generally, feeding, etc.

In horse-batteries stable duty is conducted on the same principles, with such modifications as the nature of the service demands.

GROOMING.

Take the currycomb in the right hand, fingers over back of comb; begin on the near side at the upper part of the neck, thence proceed to the chest, arms, shoulders, back, belly, flank, loins, and rump. Then go to the off side, taking comb in left hand, and proceed as before.

The currycomb is applied gently, and is used only to loosen the scurf and matted hair; it is not used on the legs from the knees or hocks downward except to carefully loosen dried mud.

Next take the brush in left hand, and change currycomb to right; begin at the neck on the near side, and proceed in the same order as in currying, brushing also the parts not touched by the comb; on the off side take brush in right hand, currycomb in left. In places difficult to clean apply the brush backward and forward, finishing by leaving the coat smooth. After every few strokes clean the brush from dust with the currycomb.

Having done with the brush, rub or dust off the horse with the grooming-cloth, wipe about the eyes and nostrils, and clean the dock. The skin under the flank and between the hindquarters must be soft, clean, and free from dust.

Currycombs, cards, or common combs must never be applied to the mane or tail; but the brush, fingers, and cloth are freely used on both.

The wisp is used when the horse comes in warm from exercise, and he is rubbed against the hair until dry, from his hindquarters up to his head.

FEEDING.

In garrison it is recommended that grain be fed at first call for reveille by the stable sergeant, assisted by one or two members of the stable-guard, or men detailed for the purpose. The grain, in a box on wheels, is rolled in front of each stall, when it is transferred to the feed-boxes by allowance-measures. Grain is fed again at evening stable duty as in the morning, but not until after the hay has been distributed and the stable swept up.

In camp or on the march grain is fed at morning and evening stables. The men are matched to the forage-wagons or other grain depository, where the non-commissioned officer in charge, with an allowance-measure, issues to each in turn.

Gruel is very good for horses when tired. To make it, put a double handful of fresh coarse oatmeal in a bucket, add a little cold water, mix well, and add 1½ gallons of hot (not boiling) water. Stir well till smooth, and give it at the temperature of new milk; add a wineglass or two of spirits if horse is much exhausted.

In garrison hay is fed thrice daily--immediately after morning stables, in the middle of the day, and at evening stables; at the evening feed each animal should have at least one half of his daily allowance. The dust must be well shaken out of the hay before it is put in the mangers. During the short days of winter the feeding at noon may be omitted without injury to the animals.

In camp hay is fed at the picket-line morning, noon, and evening; on the march, in the evening only.

The occasional use of bran is important for stabled horses. In spring or early summer they should have grass for at least a week or ten days, during which time they ought not to be much worked. Salt should be given at least once a week.

When forage cannot be obtained, grazing should be allowed at every spare moment, especially early in the morning when the dew is on the grass.

The daily allowance of oats, barley, or corn is 12 pounds to each horse; that of hay, 14 pounds; the allowance of straw for bedding is 100 pounds a month to each animal.

Barley and corn should both be crushed, if possible, when used to feed horses or mules.

Good oats weigh about 32 pounds to the bushel, barley about 48 pounds, corn about 56 pounds. Pressed hay weighs about 11 pounds per cubic foot.

=Good Oats= are clean, hard, dry, sweet, plump, full of flour, and rattle like shot. They have a clean and almost metallic lustre. Those in a sample vary but little in size, and are entirely free from smell. The pressure of the nail ought to leave little or no mark on them. The value of an oat depends mainly on its weight per bushel. Dirty oats weigh heavier than clean ones.

New oats can be distinguished from old by their smell, which is fresh and earthy, and by their taste, which is fresh and milky, while that of the old oats is slightly bitter. New oats are indigestible. Oats one year old are best.

=Various Defects in Oats.=--_Kiln-dried._--Oats that have been dried to render them hard after they have been damp. They have a loose and shrivelled appearance about the ends of the husks, and are easily recognized by their peculiar smell and reddish color.

_Foxy Oats._--Oats that have undergone a certain process of fermentation from having been stowed in bulk when not perfectly dry. They are unfit for horses, are of a reddish color, and have both bitter smell and taste. Their reddish color is sometimes gotten rid of by subjecting them to fumes of sulphur, which makes them unnaturally white.

_Damp Oats_ are objectionable and should be rejected. Continued dampness soon produces softness, mustiness, mouldiness, and sprouting.

_Dirty Oats._--This can be remedied by winnowing.

=Hay.=--There is a great variety of grasses. The best hay contains a large proportion of the best of these, along with clover and other good herbage, and only a small proportion of the inferior kinds, whilst in the inferior kinds of hay good herbage is nearly entirely wanting, and the inferior grasses predominate.

The characteristics of good hay are green color combined with a delicate smell and taste, a presence of flowers in their natural colors, and of a variety of grasses and good herbage (not weeds), and clover of moderate fineness, crispness, and hardness.

=Straw= must be wheat, oats, or rye straw; barley induces disease of the skin. It ought to be long and strong. Horses are inclined to eat wheat straw when new.

WATERING.

Horses must be watered quietly, and without confusion; the manner in which this duty is performed is a good test of the discipline of a mounted command.

Horses are to be led or ridden at a walk to and from water, depending upon its distance from the stable. At the drinking-place no horse should be hurried or have his head jerked up from the water.

If a stream is used for watering horses from the bank, the level of the water must not be more than 3 or 4 inches below the latter; and if the water is very shallow dams should be constructed to deepen it, as animals drink more rapidly when water is at least 6 inches deep. Mules should be watered higher up stream than horses. When animals will not drink from a stream, they will frequently do so from a bucket with a handful of grass on the water.

In the field or on the march the watering is from the most convenient running water; in garrison it is usually from troughs. In warm weather water drawn from a cold well or spring before being used should stand long enough for the chill to pass off.

The horses are watered under the immediate direction of the first sergeant, but if they are liable to meet those of other commands at the watering-place a commissioned officer should replace him.

During the hot months horses are watered thrice daily--in the morning, at noon, and just before grooming in the afternoon. At other times two waterings are enough, after morning and at evening stables. In very cold weather once a day, at noon, is sufficient. It is to be always remembered that a horse will rarely drink enough very early in the morning.

The daily allowance of water for a horse is six gallons.

On the march horses are watered with buckets carried on the carriages. The oftener this is done the better, as it is not usually known when another watering-place will be reached.

When horses have to make a day's march without water, they will be watered after they are fed, just before leaving camp in the morning.

If a mounted command has to march a long distance without water, so that it will be necessary to encamp _en route_, the animals are well fed, but denied water until just before starting, when they are permitted to drink freely. The command marches in the afternoon, and does not encamp until it has accomplished at least half of the distance, and moves early the next morning to reach water.

TRAINING HORSES.

Horses are trained by the best horsemen, under the supervision of an officer or non-commissioned officer.

It should be carefully impressed upon the men that the horse may be made gentle and obedient by patience, kindness, and fearlessness; that punishment is only to be resorted to when necessary, and then only administered immediately after the commission of the offense; and that nothing should ever be done to the horse in anger.

The restlessness or impatience which frequently arises from exuberance of spirits and playfulness must be carefully distinguished from that which arises from viciousness or timidity.

When restless, the horse should be held until he becomes calm; when submissive after punishment, he should be treated kindly. The men should endeavor to inspire him with confidence, and he should gradually be accustomed to warlike sounds--firing, beating of drums, etc. As one horse is apt to be governed by the actions of another, trained horses that are indifferent to such sounds should be interspersed among the new ones.

The first object to be obtained in training a horse is to render him gentle and tractable by progressive lessons. For this purpose all proper means must be employed, such as feeding, handling, patting him, taking up his feet, etc., and the practice of the longe.

The practice of the longe is also intended to supple him and teach him the free and proper use of his limbs. It likewise aids in forming his paces and fits him for service in the battery.

The men employed in this most important part of the horse's education must be selected for their natural fondness for animals, as well as for their patience, coolness, and intelligence, and should not be changed until the horses are sufficiently instructed to take their places in the battery.

BRIDLING.

A plain snaffle-bridle should at first be used and put on with great care and gentleness. If the horse resists, no violence should be used. He should be turned round in his stall and the instructor should take the end of the halter while the man quiets and encourages the horse. By careful treatment he will soon be accustomed to the sight of the bit and will allow it to be placed in his mouth. The reins will be tied so as to hang loosely on the neck.

=Cavesson.=--The cavesson is a bridle head-stall, to which a nose-band, encircling the horse's head, is added; the latter is adjustable by means of a buckle; the chin-strap has a running ring to which the longeing-strap is attached. When the snaffle-bridle has been properly fitted, the cavesson is carefully put on. The nose-band should be about three inches above the nostrils; if higher, it would partly lose its power; if lower it would affect the horse's breathing. It must not be so tight as to make the horse uneasy.

LONGEING.

This instruction should be begun on a circle from fifteen to twenty yards in diameter. As horses are usually fed, watered, saddled, and led from the near side, they are inclined to lead better from that than the off side. It will therefore generally be found necessary to give two lessons on the right to one on the left.

The first lesson to be taught the young horse is to go forward. Until he does this freely nothing else should be required of him. When he obeys freely, he should occasionally be stopped and caressed.

If the horse hesitates or stands still when he is ordered to move on, he should be encouraged, as such hesitation oftener comes from fear and ignorance as to what is required than from obstinacy or vice.

The horse should at first be led around the circle at a walk. A man with a whip (with which at first the horse should not be struck) should follow at a short distance and show the whip occasionally if the horse is inclined to hang back; if this does not produce the desired effect, he should strike the ground in rear of the horse, and at length touch him lightly with the whip until he obeys.

After the horse begins to move freely at a walk the man holding the longeing-rein should gently urge him to the trot, gradually lengthening the rein so that it may be scarcely felt, and should go round the circle at an active pace nearly opposite the horse's shoulder so as to keep him out and press him forward. If the horse takes kindly to this lesson, the man holding the rein may lengthen it by degrees until he has only to turn in the same spot, the man with the whip being careful to keep the horse out to the line of the circle. Should the horse break his pace, or plunge, the rein should be shaken without jerking it until he returns to the trot.

The man holding the longeing-rein should have a light and easy hand. For the first two or three days the horse must not be urged too much; if he goes gently, without jumping or resisting, enough is accomplished. He should be longed to the right, left, and right again, changing from a walk to a trot and back again in each case. He should be frequently halted by gently feeling the rein and speaking to him.

After a few days of the above practice the horse may be urged a little more in the trot, but the greatest care and attention are requisite to teach him the use of his limbs without straining him. Much harm may be done in this instruction by a sudden jerk or too forcible pull of the longe.

Care must be taken that the lessons are not made so long as to fatigue or fret the horse. At first they should be short and be gradually increased in length as the instruction progresses. At the conclusion of each lesson the horse should be led to the centre of the ring and made much of. The man holding the longeing-rein should take it short in one hand, at the same time patting and rubbing the horse about the head and neck with the other; he should then try to bend the horse's neck a little to the right and then to the left by means of the longeing-rein. The bend should be in the very poll of the neck, and this exercise should be repeated at the end of every lesson, cautiously and by slow degrees, until the horse responds easily. This exercise will greatly facilitate the future instruction of the animal.

The running-rein is of great value in teaching a horse to keep his head in a proper position, and affords valuable aid in his first handling. If judiciously used, it saves the rider a great deal of trouble and the horse much ill usage. It is especially useful in controlling horses that are inclined to bolt. It should act directly on the snaffle-bit itself, and is wholly independent of the reins.

The =Running-rein= consists of three parts--the chin-strap, martingale, and rein.

The _Chin-strap_, about six to eight inches long, on which is suspended a loose ring, is fastened to both snaffle-bit rings.

The _Martingale_ has only one ring; the loop through which the girth passes is made adjustable by a buckle. The martingale is so adjusted that when taut the ring will be on a level with the points of the horse's shoulders.

The _Rein_ is about eight and one half feet long; one end is buckled into the near pommel-ring; the free end is then passed through the martingale-ring from rear to front, thence through the chin-strap ring from left to right, thence through the martingale-ring from front to rear, and is held in the rider's right hand. A pull on this rein will act directly on the mouth-piece, drawing it back and somewhat downward toward the horse's breast-bone.

PREPARATORY LESSON TO MAKE THE HORSE TRACTABLE.

Before commencing the bending lessons it is well to give the horse a preparatory one in obedience. This first act of submission makes the horse quiet and gives him confidence, and gives the man such ascendancy as to prevent the horse at the outset from resisting the means employed to bring him under control.

Go up to the horse, pat him on the neck, and speak to him; then take the reins from the horse's neck and hold them at a few inches from the rings of the bit with the left hand; take such position as to offer as much resistance as possible to the horse should he attempt to break away; hold the whip in the right hand, with the point down; raise the whip quietly and tap the horse on the breast; the horse naturally tries to move back to avoid the whip; follow the horse, pulling at the same time against him, and continuing the use of the whip; be careful to show no sign of anger nor any symptom of yielding. The horse, tired of trying ineffectually to avoid the whip, soon ceases to pull and moves forward; then drop the point of the whip and make much of him. This repeated once or twice usually proves sufficient; the horse, having found how to avoid the punishment, no longer waits for the application of the whip, but anticipates it by moving up at the slightest gesture.

BENDING LESSONS.

These lessons should be given to the horse each day so long as the snaffle-bit is used alone; but the exercise should be varied, so that the horse may not become fatigued or disgusted.

The balance of the horse's body and his lightness in hand depend on the proper carriage of his head and neck.

A young horse usually tries to resist the bit, either by bending his neck to one side, by setting his jaw against the bit, or by carrying his nose too high or too low.

The bending lessons serve to make a horse manageable by teaching him to conform to the movements of the reins and to yield to the pressure of the bit. During the lessons the horse must never be hurried.

=To Bend the Horse's Neck to the Right.=--Take a position on the near side of the horse, in front of his shoulder and facing toward his neck; take the off rein close up to the bit with the right hand, the near rein the same way with the left hand, the thumbs toward each other, the little fingers outward; bring the right hand toward the body, at the same time extend the left arm so as to turn the head to the horse's right.

The force employed must be gradual and proportioned to the resistance met with, and care must be taken not to bring the horse's nose too close to his chest. If the horse moves backward, continue the pressure until, finding it impossible to avoid the restraint imposed by the bit, he stands still and yields to it.

When the bend is complete, the horse holds his head there without any restraint and champs the bit; then make much of him and let him resume his natural position by degrees, without throwing his head around hurriedly. A horse, as a rule, champs the bit when he ceases to resist.

The horse's neck is bent to the left in a similar manner, the man standing on the off side.

=To Rein in.=--Cross the reins behind the horse's jaw, taking the near rein in the right hand and the off rein in the left, at about six inches from the rings; draw them across each other till the horse gives way to the pressure and brings his nose in. Prevent the horse from raising his head by lowering the hands. When the horse gives way to the cross-pressure of the reins, ease the hand and make much of him.

SADDLING.

This should be done at first on the longeing-ground. One man, facing the horse and taking the snaffle-reins in both hands near the bit, should hold him while another places the saddle on his back. If the horse shows no uneasiness or resistance, let down the cincha-strap and cincha; fasten the cincha-strap loosely at first, and tighten it afterwards by degrees. Care must be taken not to make the cincha so tight as to cause uneasiness to the horse. If the horse resists or is restless, remove the saddle and let him see and smell it; he will then generally allow it to be placed; if necessary, strap up a leg until the horse is saddled. The longeing is then continued with the horse saddled.

MOUNTING.

When the horse becomes accustomed to the saddle, he should be mounted. Two men should assist the man who is to mount. The man with the longe, facing the horse and taking the snaffle-reins in both hands near the bit, holds his head rather high and engages his attention; the second man bears down on the off stirrup at the proper moment to keep the saddle even when the third man mounts. The man who mounts proceeds with caution, stopping and caressing the horse if he shows any uneasiness; after being seated the man pats the horse a few moments, and without attempting to make him move, dismounts with the care and gentleness exercised in mounting. This is repeated several times, until the horse submits without fear. The rider then mounts, takes a snaffle-rein in each hand, and feels lightly the horse's mouth; the man with the longe leads the horse forward and afterwards longes him to the left, and then to the right, at a walk; if the horse shows any disposition to kick or plunge, the longe is shaken to engage his attention and to keep up his head. After a few turns the rider dismounts, the horse is fed from the hand, patted, and dismissed.

These lessons are continued until the horse can be mounted and dismounted without any difficulty; and when he can be made to go forward, to the right and left, to halt and rein back by gentle application of the aids, the longe is dispensed with.

The horse is now exercised in the riding-hall or open manège, the lessons for young horses not exceeding three quarters of an hour. The horse is ridden on the track first at a walk, then at a slow trot, and afterwards the trot and walk are alternated, care being taken to turn the corners squarely; the horse is next marched to the right and left, halted and reined back to accustom him to obey the bit and the pressure of the legs. When he is obedient to the snaffle, the horse is equipped with the curb-bit. The bit must have rings at the ends of the mouthpiece for snaffle-reins, or a bit-bridoon must be used in order that the horse may be accustomed by degrees to the action of the curb-bit. The first instruction given to the horse with the curb-bit is bending the neck and reining in, dismounted; he is then mounted and exercised in the riding-hall or open manège as before described, and receives the bending and reining lessons mounted.

BENDING LESSONS, MOUNTED.

The horse is now equipped with a curb-bridle.

=To Bend the Horse's Neck to the Right.=--Adjust the reins in the left hand; seize the right rein with the right hand well down; draw it gently to the right and rear until the horse's head is brought completely around to the right, in the same position as in the bend dismounted. When the horse champs the bit, make much of him, and allow him to resume his natural position. The horse's neck is bent to the left in a similar manner.

=To Rein in.=--Lower the bridle-hand as much as possible, turning the back uppermost; with the right hand, nails down, take hold of the curb-reins above and close to the left hand and shorten them by degrees, drawing them through the left hand, which closes on the reins each time they are shortened.

When the horse resists much and holds his nose up, keep the reins steady; do not shorten or lengthen them; close the legs to prevent the horse from backing; after remaining perhaps a minute or more with his nose up and his jaw set against the bit he will yield, bring his nose in, and champ the bit; make much of him, loosen the reins, and after a few seconds _rein in_ again.

This exercise gives the horse confidence, and teaches him to arch his neck and bring his head in proper position whenever he feels the bit.

Most young horses are afraid of the bit, and they must never be frightened by sudden jerks on the reins, lest they should afterwards refuse to stand the requisite pressure of the bit. A certain amount of bearing is necessary to induce the horse to work boldly and well, as well as to apprise the rider of what the horse is going to do.

In reining in, some horses rest the lower jaw against the breast; to counteract this, press both legs equally and force the horse forward to the bit.

Some horses will not work up to the hand; that is, will not bear the bit at all. Such horses are unfit for the service.

Whenever, without an apparent cause, a horse resists or is restive, the bit, saddle, and equipment should be carefully examined to see if any part hurts or irritates him.

REARING.

Should the horse _rear_, the rider must yield the hand when the horse is up, and urge him vigorously forward when he is coming down; if the horse is punished while up, he may spring and fall backward.

Use the running-rein with a rearing horse.

KICKING.

This can be prevented by holding the horse's head well up and closing the legs; if necessary, they are closed so much as to force the horse forward.

SHYING.

This sometimes results from defect of sight and sometimes from fear. If from fear, the horse must be taken up to the object with great patience and gentleness, and be allowed to touch the object with his nose. _In no case should a horse be punished for timidity._ The dread of chastisement will increase his restiveness.

TO ACCUSTOM THE HORSES TO FIRING.

Station a few men at a little distance from and on both sides of the stable-door, and cause them to fire pistols as the horses are led into the stable to be fed; for the same object a gun may be fired during the hour of feeding. If a horse is nervous, he may be put on the longe and fed from the hand and petted each time the pistol is discharged; or he may be thrown, care being taken not to discharge the pistol so as to burn him or injure him in any way. The horses should be trained to be steady under the fire of the pieces, and also under pistol-firing by the cannoneers on the chests and by the drivers from their teams.

SWIMMING HORSES.

The horses are at first equipped with the watering-bridle, and are without saddles. The reins are on the horse's neck just in front of the withers, and knotted so that they will not hang low enough to entangle the horse's feet, care being taken to have them loose enough to permit the horse to push his nose well out, so as to have entire freedom of the head. The horse should be watered before putting him into the stream.