Chapter VIII

Difficulty in procuring leave to enter Sikkim -- Obtain permission to travel in East Nepal -- Arrangements -- Coolies -- Stores -- Servants -- Personal equipment -- Mode of travelling -- Leave Dorjiling -- Goong ridge -- Behaviour of Bhotan coolies -- Nepal frontier -- Myong valley -- Ilam -- Sikkim massacre -- Cultivation -- Nettles -- Camp at Nanki on Tonglo -- Bhotan coolies run away -- View of Chumulari -- Nepal peaks to west -- Sakkiazong -- _Buceros_ -- Road to Wallanchoon -- Oaks -- Scarcity of water -- Singular view of mountain-valleys -- Encampment -- My tent and its furniture -- Evening occupations -- Dunkotah-Cross ridge of Sakkiazong -- Yews -- Silver-firs-View of Tambur valley -- Pemmi river -- Pebbly terraces -- Geology -- Holy springs -- Enormous trees -- _Luculia gratissima_ -- Khawa river, rocks of -- Arrive at Tambur -- Shingle and gravel terraces -- Natives, indolence of -- Canoe ferry -- Votive offerings -- Bad road -- Temperature, etc. -- Chingtam village, view from -- Mywa river and Guola -- House -- Boulders -- Chain-bridge -- Meepo, arrival of -- Fevers.

CHAPTER IX.

Leave Mywa -- Suspension bridge -- Landslips -- Vegetation -- Slope of river-bed -- Bees' nests -- Glacial phenomena -- Tibetans, clothing, ornaments, amulets, salutation, children, dogs -- Last Limboo village, Taptiatok -- Beautiful scenery -- Tibet village of Lelyp -- _Opuntia -- Edgeworthia -- Crab-apple_ -- Chameleon and porcupine -- Praying-machine -- _Abies Brunoniana_ -- European plants -- Grand scenery -- Arrive at Wallanchoon -- Scenery around -- Trees -- Tibet houses -- Manis and Mendongs -- Tibet household -- Food -- Tea-soup -- Hospitality -- Yaks and Zobo, uses and habits of -- Bhoteeas -- Yak-hair tents -- Guobah of Walloong -- Jatamansi -- Obstacles to proceeding-Climate and weather -- Proceed -- Rhododendrons, etc. -- Lichens -- _Poa annua_ and Shepherd's purse -- Tibet camp -- Tuquoroma -- Scenery of pass -- Glaciers and snow -- Summit -- Plants, woolly, etc.

CHAPTER X.

Return from Wallanchoon pass -- Procure a bazaar at village -- Dance of Lamas -- Blackening face, Tibetan custom of -- Temple and convent -- Leave for Kanglachem pass -- Send part of party back to Dorjiling -- Yangma Guola -- Drunken Tibetans -- Guobah of Wallanchoon -- Camp at foot of Great Moraine -- View from top -- Geological speculations -- Height of moraines -- Cross dry lake-bed -- Glaciers -- More moraines -- Terraces -- Yangma temples -- Jos, books and furniture -- Peak of Nango -- Lake -- Arrive at village -- Cultivation -- Scenery -- Potatos -- State of my provisions -- Pass through village -- Gigantic boulders -- Terraces -- Wild sheep -- Lake-beds -- Sun's power -- Piles of gravel and detritus -- Glaciers and moraines -- Pabuk, elevation of -- Moonlight scene -- Return to Yangma -- Temperature, etc. -- Geological causes of phenomena in valley -- Scenery of valley on descent.

CHAPTER XI.

Ascend to Nango mountain -- Moraines -- Glaciers -- Vegetation -- _Rhododendron Hodgsoni_ -- Rocks -- Honey-combed surface of snow -- Perpetual snow -- Top of pass -- View -- Elevation -- Geology -- Distance of sound -- Plants -- Temperature -- Scenery -- Cliffs of granite and hurled boulders -- Camp -- Descent -- Pheasants -- Larch -- Himalayan pines -- Distribution of Deodar, note on -- Tassichooding temples -- Kambachen village -- Cultivation -- Moraines in valley, distribution of -- Picturesque lake-beds, and their vegetation -- Tibetan sheep and goats -- _Cryptogramma crispa_ -- Ascent to Choonjerma pass -- View of Junnoo -- Rocks of its summit -- Misty ocean -- Nepal peaks -- Top of pass -- Temperature, and observations -- Gorgeous sunset -- Descent to Yalloong valley -- Loose path -- Night scenes -- Musk deer.