Chapter XII

Yalloong valley -- Find Kanglanamo pass closed -- Change route for the southward -- _Picrorhiza_ -- View of Kubra -- _Rhododendron Falconeri_ -- Yalloong river -- Junction of gneiss and clay-slate -- Cross Yalloong range -- Yiew -- Descent -- Yew -- Vegetation -- Misty weather -- Tongdam village -- Khabang -- Tropical vegetation -- Sidingbah mountain -- View of Kinchinjunga -- Yangyading village -- Slopes of hills, and courses of rivers -- Khabili valley -- Ghorkha Havildar's bad conduct -- Ascend Singalelah -- Plague of ticks -- Short commons -- Cross Islumbo pass -- Boundary of Sikkim -- Kulhait valley -- Lingcham -- Reception by Kajee -- Hear of Dr. Campbell's going to meet Rajah -- Views in valley -- Leave for Teesta river -- Tipsy Kajee -- Hospitality -- Murwa beer -- Temples -- _Acorus Calamus_ -- Long Mendong -- Burning of dead -- Superstitions -- Cross Great Rungeet -- Boulders, origin of -- Purchase of a dog -- Marshes -- Lamas -- Dismiss Ghorkhas -- Bhoteea house -- Murwa beer.

CHAPTER XIII.

Raklang pass -- Uses of nettles -- Edible plants -- Lepcha war -- Do-mani stone -- Neongong -- Teesta valley -- Pony, saddle, etc. -- Meet Campbell -- Vegetation and scenery -- Presents -- Visit of Dewan -- Characters of Rajah and Dewan -- Accounts of Tibet -- Lhassa -- Siling -- Tricks of Dewan -- Walk up Teesta -- Audience of Rajah -- Lamas -- Kajees -- Tchebu Lama, his character and position -- Effects of interview -- Heir-apparent -- Dewan's house -- Guitar -- Weather -- Fall of river -- Tibet officers -- Gigantic trees -- Neongong lake -- Mainom, ascent of -- Vegetation -- Camp on snow -- Silver-firs -- View from top -- Kinchin, etc. -- Geology -- Vapours -- Sunset effect -- Elevation -- Temperature, etc. -- Lamas of Neongong -- Temples -- Religious festival Bamboo, flowering -- Recross pass of Raklang -- Numerous temples, villages, etc. -- Domestic animals -- Descent to Great Rungeet.

CHAPTER XIV.

Tassiding, view of and from -- Funereal cypress -- Camp at Sunnook -- Hot vapours -- Lama's house -- Temples, decorations, altars, idols, general effect -- Chaits -- Date of erection -- Plundered by Ghorkas -- Cross Ratong -- Ascend to Pemiongehi -- Relation of river-beds to strike of rocks -- Slopes of ravines -- Pemiongehi, view of -- Vegetation -- Elevation -- Temple, decorations, etc. -- Former capital of Sikkim -- History of Sikkim -- Nightingales -- Campbell departs -- Tchonpong -- _Edgeworthia_ -- Cross Rungbee and Ratong -- Hoar-frost on plantains -- Yoksun -- Walnuts -- View -- Funereal cypresses -- Doobdi -- Gigantic cypresses -- Temples -- Snow-fall -- Sikkim, etc. -- Toys.

CHAPTER XV.

Leave Yoksun for Kinchinjunga -- Ascend Ratong valley -- Salt-smuggling over Ratong -- Landslips -- Plants -- Buckeem -- Blocks of gneiss -- Mon Lepcha -- View -- Weather -- View from Gubroo -- Kinchinjunga, tops of -- Pundimcliff -- Nursing -- Vegetation of Himalaya -- Coup d'oeil of Jongri -- Route to Yalloong -- Arduous route of salt-traders from Tibet -- Kinchin, ascent of -- Lichens -- Surfaces sculptured by snow and ice -- Weather at Jongri -- Snow -- Shades for eyes.

CHAPTER XVI.

Ratong river below Mon Lepcha -- Ferns -- Vegetation of Yoksun, tropical -- _Araliaceae_, fodder for cattle -- Rice-paper plant -- Geology of Yoksun -- Lake -- Old temples -- Funereal cypresses -- Gigantic chart -- Altars -- Songboom -- Weather -- Catsuperri -- Velocity of Ratong -- Worship at Catsuperri lake -- Scenery -- Willow -- Lamas and ecclesiastical establishments of Sikkim -- Tengling -- Changachelling temples and monks -- Portrait of myself on walls -- Block of mica-schist -- Lingcham Kajee asks for spectacles -- Hee-hill -- Arrive at Little Rungeet -- At Dorjiling -- Its deserted and wintry appearance.