Chapter VI: Beginnings in Linn County (2)

The first settlement of whites in Iowa had been at Dubuque, where Dubuque and his followers worked the mines at that place. This at one time was a great center of attraction, but as the government restricted settlers from coming in, they were driven back until treaty arrangements were made with the Indians, who were the owners of the land upon which the mines were located. These men who first came as miners early saw the exceeding beauty and fertility of the Iowa lands, and thus news was spread among the people of the east before the Iowa lands were thrown open for settlement. Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois were by this time pretty much settled up, and so was Missouri and nearly all the land adjoining the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Thus it was that as soon as the word came from the government that part of Iowa was thrown open to settlement adventurous men and brave women soon began to cross the Mississippi and to settle in various parts of what was then so well known as the Black Hawk land. There were no roads in those days, not even trails, and consequently a person did not dare to venture out on the prairie, but he generally followed some stream so that he could find his way back to the starting place, at least.

Most of the people who came west to settle had no idea of where to locate or of the condition of the Iowa lands. They were bold, fearless, and determined, as well as resolute, and they pushed on until they found a locality which suited their fancy and here they pitched their tents and lived in their wagons until suitable log cabins were erected.

Prior to 1829 there was not even a ferry established at any regular point on which to cross the river into Iowa; even the miner, Dubuque, when he wanted to re-cross to the Illinois side had to borrow an Indian canoe. The familiar Du Bois, who came early into Illinois in Joe Davies county, trading with the Indians, had no other means of crossing the river than in Indian canoes. By the latter part of 1829 one John Barrel was commissioned to maintain a ferry at Rock Island, which at that time was within the confines of Joe Davies county, which extended for miles and miles along the river, like Dubuque county on the west side of the river. Col. George Davenport also obtained a permit to run a ferry from Davenport across the river, the ferry charges being fixed by the commissioners so that there could be no hold-up. The following charges were made, which must have been pretty high for the people of small means in those days:

Man and horse $25.00
Horses or cattle, per head, other than cattle yoke .37-1/2
Road wagon 1.00
For each horse hitched to said wagon .25
Each two-horse wagon .75
Each two-wheeled carriage or cart 1.00
One-horse wagon .75
Each hundred weight of mdse., etc. .06

To avoid paying this ferry charge a great many of the settlers started early in the spring and would cross the river on the ice and thus save this additional expense. William Abbe and his family, and many others who settled in Linn county, at least those who were familiar with the ferry charges, crossed on the ice.

George Davenport established a trading post as early as 1831 at the mouth of Rock creek, and another on the east side of Cedar river just above Rochester a short time later. Thus, gradually, there extended a system of small stores in the bayous, creeks, and rivers where trading was carried on mainly with the Indians. The settlers who came generally followed these trails and would be helped and advised where to go and where to find the best roads, and also as to whether or not the Indians in the immediate vicinity of the stores were hostile or friendly.

Block houses had also been erected near these frontier stores for protection in case of Indian outbreaks.

Another trading point was that of Rockingham which was laid out as early as 1835, and in the early forties considered one of the best villages in the territory. It was to this place the early settlers came up to 1841-42 to trade, as well as to Muscatine and Davenport.

The settlers who came late during the summer of 1838-39 were unfortunate in case they were unable to get enough hay for their stock, for the winters were very cold and there were no provisions or food to be purchased, and many a family along the Cedar river in Linn and Cedar counties during these years endured some severe trials. Money was scarce, provisions of all kinds high, and no trading posts nearer than those at Davenport, Muscatine, and Rockingham. It is said that Robert Ellis and Philip Hull came to William Abbe's on their way to Muscatine to get provisions in the fall of 1838. William Abbe gave them $15.00--all the money he had--and with tears in his eyes told them to buy what they could, for that he did not know what would become of his wife and children when that was gone, for it was all the money he had in the world. They were absent about two weeks, and brought back as much provisions as they could buy with what money they had, and by hunting during the winter they got along and helped William Abbe. In the forties William Abbe secured government contracts, and then became a well-to-do man. Robert Ellis was a partner with Abbe many times in supplying the outposts with provisions.

Many families during the latter thirties and the early forties experienced some hard times in Iowa. To make the situation and surroundings still more difficult the creeks and sloughs between the settlements were treacherous quagmires in which wagons going for or returning with provisions were sure to settle in up to the hubs, and when once in the mud there was no way to get them out except by unloading or by going to the nearest store for help, which would be many miles away. Sometimes the assistance of two or three additional yoke of oxen was secured to pull out the wagon.

The winters of 1837-38-39 and 40 began early, snow falling to the extent of a foot or two as early as the latter part of October, and it increased as the winter advanced. There was no thaw in January, and the settlers were completely shut in until about the middle of April. Then the snow all melted away and the streams were swollen so as to be impassable. Thus it was impossible to get to any place for food or for provisions until way into the summer. Consequently the settlers experienced many hardships, and much of the stock died from sheer starvation. As early as possible in the spring the settlers would unite and start off for Muscatine, Dubuque, or Rockingham for provisions, and on their return would help the needy settlers who had no opportunity to get away. Sometimes these journeys were undertaken on foot, when two or three would start off with knapsacks to get the necessary foods and medicines, and would return as soon as possible.

It is wonderful what the old settlers endured--how they walked a distance of 100 miles in less than two days. Robert Ellis walked from Michigan to Iowa; he walked to Dubuque, Muscatine, Davenport, and Burlington many times, while it is said of William Abbe that he walked easily 60 miles a day without being very much exhausted. Then, again, when roads were impassable for wheeled vehicles they would ride horseback, leading sometimes one horse to be used as a pack horse to bring back provisions.

To show with how much difficulty the early settlers toiled to get a foothold in Linn county, it might be well to state the story of the life of Edward M. Crow, who, as a young man, in 1837 came into the county to a place near where is now located Viola. He was only 21 years of age, and came west from Chicago, having previously come from Indiana. He stopped first in Illinois and having heard of Iowa, came here in search of cheap land. He was accompanied by James Dawson and James Gillilan, the latter owning a team of horses. They constructed ferry boats of their own on which to cross the river. The other two parties got tired and left. Crow later found Dawson in Illinois. They travelled over much of Iowa, back and forth, mostly on foot; sometimes together, sometimes setting out in different directions alone. Finally, both Dawson and Crow united in Jones county, staking out a claim in Linn county in July, 1837. Returning to Fox river, Illinois, again in quest of provisions, they did not come back to Linn county until in August of that year, when Ed and Garrison Crow and James Dawson began their settlement, erected a cabin and cut some hay for the winter. They were without food, and had to make another trip to the borders of civilization for provisions for the winter. The monotonous months of winter rolled by, Crow's party subsisting by hunting as best they could.

A number of settlers came into Brown township during the early years, such as Jacob Mann, David Mann, his brother, William P. Earle, Asa Farnsworth, and many others. John Crow, father of Ed Crow, John Lynn, O. Bennett, Charles Pickney, Benj. Simmons, Solomon Peckham, and Alexander Rhotan were emigrants who settled here in 1838. All those who came that year and have been definitely corroborated, or who were there as real settlers, were the following: Samuel C. Stewart, Peter McRoberts, John Afferty, William Abbe, Israel Mitchell, Will Gilbert, J. G. Cole, Hiram Thomas, Joseph Carraway, Jacob Leabo, John Henry, J. Wilbert Stone, Osgood Shepherd, wife, father and several children, Robert Ellis, O. S. Bolling, Mr. Ashmore, W. K. Farnsworth, Robert Osborn, Thomas Campbell, Perry Oxley, Will Vineyard, James Hunter, J. J. Gibson, Robert Deem, Michael Donahoo, William Chamberlain, Mr. Williams, Mr. Evans, J. B. Sargent, John Sargent, A. J. McKean, John Scott, H. W. Gray, S. H. Tryon, Anson Coles, Andrew Safely, Rev. Christian Troup, D. S. Hahn, Hiram Bales, Asher Edgerton, Peter Roland, John Stewart, J. E. Boyd, Philip Hull, John Young, Mr. Granger, L. H. Powell, John McCloud, Mr. Kemp, Listebarger brothers, and many others.

The Hoosier Grove settlement was made in 1838, being in Putnam township; Isaac and Abner Cox and John Holler, and several others, settled here that year.

During the year 1839 Otter Creek was settled by Stevens, Michael Greene, Bart McGonigle, Henry Nelson, William Chamberlain, Dr. J. Cummings, Will Sullivan and Perry Oliphant.

Dyer Usher and Joel Howard ferried people across the Mississippi near Muscatine in the summer of 1839. These men died near Covington a few years ago. Usher always claimed that he was on the site of Cedar Rapids as early as 1836 and located west of the river two years later. The young men could make no money in a new country, and while they took claims they frequently left for civilization to earn a little money. So it might have been that Usher was a bona fide resident of Linn county, while he could get no employment nearer than Muscatine.

A number of persons settled early around Cedar Rapids in the timber a few miles from town. William Knowles located on what is known as Mound Farm in 1839 and gave this up to the Brodie family, consisting of parents, five sons and three daughters. The names of the sons were Hugh, John, William, Steven, and Jesse. Rev George R. Carroll speaks of the family as having an unsavory reputation. The family removed further north when some of them at least were accused of being notorious horse thieves.

Joel Leverich next became the owner of Mound Farm, a person who had somewhat of a history in the early days of politics in the county. In 1843-44 this property was purchased by George Greene.

A number of people lived along the trail between Marion and Cedar Rapids. Among those well known not already mentioned may be named Ambrose Harlan, Dave Woodbridge, J. E. Bromwell, J. P. Glass, Rufus Lucore, John and Will Hunter, Thomas Hare, Will Willis, and many others.

* * * * *

We quote the following from directories and gazeteers published years ago. These statements may not be correct in some details, but the facts were obtained from some who were doubtless familiar with them.

Thus Wolfe in his Cedar Rapids and Kingston directory of 1869 speaks of John Mann, of Pine Grove, as the first settler in Linn county, he coming in 1838, and of the first marriage in the county as that of Sarah Haines to Richard Osborne, in 1839, and the first death as that of Mrs. Haines, an elderly lady who died from an accident in July, 1838.

He further speaks of the first store in Westport as that of Albert [should be John] Henry in 1838. It is thought that Stone also carried on some store or trade with the Indians before this. He speaks of the second store as being operated by W. H. Merritt in 1839. This should be 1838, as is seen from Merritt's letter to S. W. Durham, found in another portion of this volume.

The first claim of land in Cedar Rapids was made by William Stone, in 1838, who built a cabin on the banks of the river on Commercial street, now First street. Is this the Shepherd cabin, and was this so-called first tavern erected and occupied by Stone, who later was compelled to vacate it and give up his claim? Mr. Wolfe also speaks of the first saw and grist mill built by Brown in 1842, the second flour mill built by Alex Ely in 1845, and the first woolen factory erected by Brown in 1845. Miss Legare built a saw mill in 1851.

As late as 1869 Wolfe speaks of eight flour and saw mills being operated in and around Cedar Rapids. He speaks further of two woolen factories and the steam bakery of I. H. Shaver & Co., and of the Fish paper mill, manufacturing 300 tons of paper annually. The directory speaks of the American Express Company having an office here as early as 1859, with W. B. Mack as the first local agent.

The editor also mentions that the learned professions were represented by ten clergymen, thirteen doctors, and about fifteen lawyers.

He also mentions J. Bell's stage line running daily between Iowa City, Solon, Western, and Cedar Rapids, and also of a line to Vinton.

The following as seen by a traveller may be of interest. It is from _A Glimpse of Iowa in 1846_, by J. B. Newhall, Burlington, Iowa, _W. D. Skillman_, publisher, 1846:

"Linn county has become proverbial for the excellence of its
soil, its salubrity of climate, abundance and admirable
adaption of woodlands to the wants and convenience of the
settler. The prairies are remarkably fertile, and of
moderate extent; the timber equally and amply apportioned,
generally of full growth, consisting, principally, of red
and white oak, black and white walnut, linn, sugar, maple,
etc. Linn county is famous for its extensive sugar orchards,
from some of which 500 to 1,000 weight have been annually
made. It is well watered by the Red Cedar and its
tributaries, affording abundance of mill power, much of
which is already improved.

"Marion, the seat of justice, is located near the center of
the county, about four miles east of the Cedar, at the edge
of a beautiful grove, on a gentle prairie roll. It contains
several stores, a commodious hotel, postoffice, various
mechanical establishments, and is a place of considerable
importance."

The modern traveler speaks of broad meadows, of rich corn fields, and of large manufacturing interests. This traveler of sixty-five years ago speaks of timber which has disappeared and of maple sugar orchards which makes us wonder what they were like.

From Bailey & Hair's _Iowa State Gazetteer_, 1865, we gather these facts:

"The county of Linn is so named in honor of a distinguished
senator of the United States, the Hon. Louis F. Linn, of
Missouri. It is situated centrally in the eastern half of
the state, and from fifty to sixty miles west of the
Mississippi river.

"It was defined by act of the Territorial Legislature of
Wisconsin, at its session of 1837 and '38; that Territory
then including the whole of Iowa within its jurisdiction.
The county limits were the same as they now remain,
consisting of twenty Congressional townships, containing an
area of 720 square miles. It is bounded on the north by
Buchanan and Delaware counties, east by Jones and Cedar,
south by Johnson and west by Benton. It is now divided into
nineteen civil townships, as follows: Bertram, Boulder,
Brown, Buffalo, Clinton, College, Fairfax, Franklin,
Fayette, Jackson, Linn, Marion, Maine, Monroe, Otter Creek,
Putnam, Rapids, Spring Grove, and Washington.

"The county was duly organized by the Board of County
Commissioners at their first session held September 9th,
1839, at the farm house of Mr. James W. Willis, one-half
mile north of the present town of Marion. The board
consisted of Samuel C. Stewart, President, Peter McRoberts,
and Luman M. Strong, Commissioners; Hosea W. Gray, Sheriff;
and John C. Berry, Clerk.

"This Board also approved the selection of the county seat,
which they ordered to be called Marion; divided the county
into election and road districts; and appointed Andrew J.
McKean and William H. Smith, Constables. Of the officers and
persons above named, but two, Messrs. Gray and McKean,
remain residents of the county, the latter being the present
Clerk of the District Court.

* * * * *

"The first white settler in this county was John Mann, who
erected his cabin on Upper Big Creek, in Linn Grove, in the
month of February, A. D., 1838. He was an emigrant from the
mountainous region of southwestern Pennsylvania. He was an
honest, industrious, unlettered, rude sort of man.
Subsequently he built a small flouring mill. A great flood
in the spring of 1851 carried away his mill and himself
together. The unfortunate man was drowned, and his body
recovered only after several days had elapsed. The flood was
unprecedented, and was thought to have been caused by a
water spout. The Little Creek is said to have risen twenty
feet in about as many minutes.

"The next permanent settler was John Crow, a North
Carolinian, who made his home near the east line of the
county on the Wapsipinicon river, in April, 1838. He was a
very gentlemanly person, of more than ordinary intelligence,
wealth and enterprise. He died about five years afterwards,
much respected. His son, Edward Crow, Esq., now a member of
the Board of Supervisors of this County, and other
descendants remain. During the summer of 1838 the
settlements gradually extended in the east part of the
county. The only persons now recollected, of that early
period, as remaining, are John Gibson, of Mount Vernon, and
Andrew J. McKean, and Hosea W. Gray, of Marion. The first
family west of Big Creek was that of Jacob Leabo, from
Kentucky. The first west of Indian Creek was that of James
W. Bassett, from Vermont. The first Justice of the Peace was
John McAfferty, commissioned in 1838. The first Judge of
Probate was Israel Mitchell, a Tennesseean, now residing in
Oregon. The first Sheriff was Hosea W. Gray. The first Clerk
of the District Court was Joseph Williams, a Pennsylvanian:
now said to be in the military service at Memphis,
Tennessee.

"The first officiating minister was the Rev. Christian
Troup, a German Lutheran, who preached regularly in his own
cabin near the mouth of Spring Creek every Sunday during the
latter part of the summer of 1838. The first marriage was
that of Richard Osborn and Sarah Haines, in the spring of
1839. The first birth was that of a daughter of Mrs. Samuel
McCartney, in July, 1838. The first death was that of Mrs.
Haines, an invalid elderly lady, who died from the effects
of an accidental fall in July, 1838. The second was that of
James Logan, an Irishman, who was killed by the caving in of
a well which he was excavating in Marion, July, 1840.

"The first selected town site was called Westport, of which
Israel Mitchell was proprietor. It was near the present site
of the village of Bertram, and was selected in July, 1838.
This was afterwards abandoned. The next in order of time,
was called Columbus, built by William Stone, in September,
1838. He abandoned his town the next spring, there being
only a single log cabin. The site was that occupied by the
present city of Cedar Rapids. The next was Ivanhoe, by Anson
Cowles, in October, 1838, since vacated. The fourth was
Marion, the present county seat, in April, 1839.

"The first election was held at Westport in October, 1838,
that being the only poll opened for the county. The only
candidates were for members of the Assembly; thirty-two
votes were cast. The first member of the General Assembly
elected from this county was the Hon. George Greene, member
of the Legislative Council, elected in 1840. The first store
opened was at Westport, by Albert [John] Henry, in the fall
of 1838. The second at Ivanhoe, in the spring of 1839, by
Col. William H. Merritt.

"The first celebration was on the 4th of July, 1839, at
Westport, Judge Mitchell, Orator. There was a dinner,
toasts, and a ball, whereof William H. Smith, Andrew J.
McKean and H. W. Gray, were managers.

"The fifth decennial census of the United States was taken
in 1840, in this county, by H. W. Gray, Deputy Marshal. The
population was 1,342. The influx of settlers for the next
three years was quite rapid, during which time the
population reached probably three thousand. The largest
proportion of the emigration was of Southern origin. The
early settlers were plain, honest, hospitable people, not
much accustomed to legal restraints, and rather impatient of
the slow process and technicalities of the law. As usual, in
all new countries, they were annoyed by vagabonds, who
flocked into the settlements, calculating on impunity in
their depredations, on account of the inefficiency of the
police regulations. A rude justice was not unfrequently
meted out to offenders without recourse to legal forms, or
the intervention of courts.

"In common with all frontier settlements, the first settlers
here were poor; they were obliged to transport their produce
in wagons mostly, to the Mississippi River, at points sixty
or seventy miles distant. When reached at such disadvantage
the markets were very low, consequently the accretions of
wealth were slow, and were mainly invested in the homestead
of the farmer. The discovery of gold in California with the
resulting emigration, opened a good market for the farmers
at home. Afterwards, eastern emigration, with the building
of railroads, connecting the people with eastern markets,
greatly accelerated the prosperity of this county as well as
all other parts of the west. The financial crisis of 1857
interposed a check to this onward career of prosperity. It
was but temporary, however, and the people had fully
regained their former standing when the rebellion commenced.

"It is felt that a county which contributed one general, and
fifteen field officers, with more than two thousand
volunteers in defense of the Union, without draft or
conscription, and without seriously lessening its productive
energies, has an assured basis of future greatness and
prosperity. A basis which nothing short of the entire
upheaval and destruction of the foundations of human society
shall be able to disturb."

In _Guide, Gazetteer and Directory of the Dubuque & Sioux City Railroad_, Dubuque, _Bailey & Wolfe_, 1868, we read of Cedar Rapids:

"The first settlement here was made in the year 1838 by
William Stone, who erected a log cabin on the bank of the
river in the rear of No. 1 North Commercial street. The same
year Osgood Shepherd, a supposed leader of a band of
outlaws, jumped Stone's claim and took possession of the
cabin, and held it until the year 1841, when he sold
three-fourths of his interest to N. B. Brown and George
Greene, H. W. Gray, A. L. Roach, and S. H. Tryon, for the
sum of $3,000.

"In 1842 he sold the remainder and soon after disappeared
from the country. N. B. Brown came here in 1840, when Mr.
Brown and Judge George Greene became proprietors of the
water power.

"In 1841 the town was laid out and named from the rapids in
the river. The first frame dwelling was erected by John
Vardy and is still standing at 62 Brown street, corner of
South Adams. The building known as the Old Postoffice
Building, North Washington street, was built for a store by
N. B. Brown, the same year. P. W. Earle's residence, 29 Iowa
Avenue, was the first brick building, and was erected by Mr.
Earle in 1849. Wm. Dwyer built the first hotel in 1847. This
was destroyed by fire in January, 1865.

"The work of constructing a dam across the river, was
commenced by N. B. Brown, July 4th, 1842, though much of the
material had been prepared prior to that date. Mr. Brown
commenced the erection of a saw mill, and also of a grist
mill the same year, and both were completed the year
following. A second saw mill was built in 1851.

"The second flouring mill was built by Alexander Ely in
1844-5. The first woolen factory was also built by N. B.
Brown in 1847. In 1855 a city charter was obtained, and at
the first charter election, Isaac N. Whittam was elected
Mayor. Railroad communication with the Mississippi was
opened in 1859, from which time the growth of the city in
wealth and population has been rapid and constant.

"A superior water power has attracted a large interest in
manufactures of various kinds. As early as 1840 one of the
first settlers determined to apply his energies to the
improvement of the water power, and soon after a dam was
thrown across the river, a saw mill built, and other
improvements followed, till now there are located here five
flouring and custom mills, one saw mill, one paper mill, two
woolen mills, and one fanning mill and separator
manufactory."