Chapter CVI: Appendix (2)
I am the Political _Peshkár_ at Garbyang in Byans. I knew and
reported that Mr. Henry Savage Landor had gone into Tibet. On the
5th September I learnt from Bhotias that he had been stopped at
Toxem and reported it. I then proceeded to Taklakot in Tibet, to
inquire into the matter. On the 7th September, at Taklakot, I
learnt that Mr. Landor was a prisoner at Dogmar, and that the
Jong Pen would not permit his being brought into Taklakot, as
this meant that Mr. Landor would have to go to Gyanima and _viâ_
the Lumpia Lek. I then insisted on the Jong Pen allowing Mr.
Landor a passage to Taklakot, and warned him of the consequences
if he declined. The Jong Pen consented, but gave orders that Mr.
Landor should be conveyed hurriedly by night through Taklakot to
the Lippu Lek. I protested against this, and eventually Mr.
Landor, on 8th September, was conveyed into Taklakot. The Jong
Pen had sent two _sawárs_ to his guard to admit them. In the Rev.
Harkua Wilson's tent Mr. Landor related how he had been tortured.
There were several of the Tibetans present who had taken part in
the tortures, and they signified that all of Mr. Landor's story
was true. Among them was Nerba, of Thokchim Tarjum, who admitted
that he had held Mr. Landor by the hair when about to be
beheaded, and had cut the nails of his fingers and toes. He
admitted he had taken a gold ring from Mr. Landor, which a
soldier had taken from him. I made a report of all this and sent
(1) a list of Mr. Landor's property restored him by the Tibetans
and (2) a list of articles missing. I know Mr. Landor had two
rifles and a revolver when he went into Tibet and a considerable
amount of money. Mr. Landor was in a very critical position; he
was past recognition. He was wounded on the face, body, hands,
and legs. I went to the Jong Pen and protested at the treatment
given Mr. Landor. The former boldly admitted that Mr. Landor had
been treated as alleged, and that it was their duty to act so.
The Jong Pen promised to try and have Mr. Landor's missing
property restored to him. I know he wrote off to the Garban of
Gartok about orders issuing to the Toxem Tarjum. He has engaged
to send me anything recovered.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
DEPOSITION OF SUNA, _taken on the 14th day of October 1897. Solemn affirmation administered by me._
My name is Suna; my father's name is Gandachiju; I am by caste
Khumhar; forty-two years of age; by occupation trader; my home is
at Gunji, police station Byans, district Almora.
I saw Mr. Landor and his two servants as prisoners about one and
a-half month ago, this side of the Mansarowar Lake. Mr. Landor
and Chanden Sing were on yaks; Man Sing on foot. They were well
guarded. Tunda and Amr Sing were with me. They went on ahead to
Taklakot while I stayed back with the sheep. They went to inform
the Rev. Harkua Wilson of the capture. I saw Mr. Landor detained
at Dogmar.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
_Statement of property confiscated by the Tibetan authorities, and recovered some months later by the Government of India._
189 .
DEPARTMENT
-------------------------------
_From_
H.K. GRACEY, Esq., C.S.,
_The Deputy Commissioner of
Almora_,
_To_
A.H. SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq.,
c/o GRINDLAY, GROOM & CO.
BOMBAY.
_Dated 10th December_ )
) 1897
_Received_ )
897
-----
Revolver, 1. No. XXII. of 1897.
Jewel ring, 1. -------------------------------
Cash--68/12/--in eight-anna _File No._ .
pieces. Serial No. .
Cartridges for rifles, 110. -------------------------------
Rifles, 2 (1 damaged).
Cartridges for pistol, 37.
Cleaning-rods for rifles, 2. -------------------------------
Cover for rifle, 1. _File Heading._
" revolver, 1. _Property of_ Mr. H. SAVAGE
Leather strap, 1. LANDOR.
Net to catch butterflies, 1. -------------------------------
SUBJECT.
Has the honour to inform him
that his marginally noted articles
have been received by the Political
Peshkar of Garbyang from
the Jong-pen of Taklakote.
W. SMITH, C.S., _for_ B.R. Regr. No. 27 ) P. No. 2131 H.K. GRACEY, C.S., Dept. XXII. B.-- ) 11-9-96- _Deputy Commissioner, Almora._ 1,00,000 of 1896. ) P.D. W.J.W.
_Certificate from_ DR. WILSON.
DHARCHULA BYAS, BHOT.
I herewith certify that I accompanied Mr. A. Henry Savage Landor
in his ascent up the Mangshan mountain, and that Mr. Landor and a
Rongba coolie reached an altitude of 22,000 (twenty-two thousand)
feet. Owing to the rarefied air, I and the other men accompanying
Mr. Landor were unable to go as far as he did. Mr. Landor was at
the time carrying on him a weight of thirty seers (60 lbs.),
consisting of silver rupees, two aneroids, cartridges, revolver,
&c. During the whole time I travelled with Mr. Landor he always
carried the above weight on him, and generally carried his rifle
besides (7¼ lbs. extra). We all suffered very much during the
ascent, as the incline was very steep, and there was deep snow
and much troublesome _débris_.
I also certify that I took many photographs[45] of Mr. Landor and
his two servants after they were released, and Mr. Landor looked
then very old and suffering, owing to starvation and the wounds
that had been inflicted upon him by the Tibetans.
(Signed) H. WILSON,
_In charge of Bhot Dispensaries,
American Methodist Episcopal Mission._
DHARCHULA, _April_ 27, 1898.
DEAR MR. LANDOR,
Do you remember the night when we separated near Lama Chokden in
Tibet, you to proceed towards Lhassa, and I to return to India?
I have in my lifetime, seen few such fierce snowstorms. The storm
had been raging the whole day and night, and the wind was blowing
so hard that we could not hear each other speak. I can only
recollect with horror at the dreadful anxiety I was in when you,
with a handful of men, escaped from the Tibetan soldiers watching
us, and in the dark fearful night proceeded to take your men up
the mountain range, with no path, and among loose stones and
boulders, a way, indeed, not even fit for goats.
That night, I well remember, you were carrying a weight much
greater than the one you usually carried, thirty seers (60 lbs.),
for when you left the tent you had in your hand a small bag with
200 extra silver rupees, and you carried your revolver, your
rifle, and some extra ammunition. I assure you that I look back
with amazement at how you succeeded in pulling through the
dangers and difficulties of that night alone.
Yours sincerely,
(Signed) H. WILSON,
_American Methodist Episcopal Mission._
DR. H. WILSON'S _Statement_.
I herewith certify that, having heard at Gungi (Byas) that Mr. A.
Henry Savage Landor, after losing all his provisions in a large
river, had been captured by the Tibetans at Toxem and had there
been tortured, I proceeded to Taklakot (Tibet) in the hope of
obtaining further news. At Taklakot the news was confirmed, and I
heard that Mr. Landor and two servants were brought back under a
strong guard. Some uncertainty prevailed as to what route he
would be made to follow, and efforts were made by the Tibetans to
make him proceed by the long, cold, and dangerous route _viâ_ the
Lumpiya Pass, instead of by the shorter and easier route _viâ_
Taklakot. We heard that Mr. Landor and his two men were in very
poor health owing to the ill-treatment by the Tibetans, and no
doubt the long journey over ice and snow by the Lumpiya Pass left
but little chance of their reaching Gungi alive. At the request
of Jaimal Bura, Latto Bura and myself, Pundit Gobaria despatched
a man to the Jong Pen at Kujer to explain that we would be
thankful and would consider it a great kindness if he would allow
Mr. Landor to travel through Taklakot. At last, after much
trouble, our request was granted. The officer who brought us the
news informed us that Mr. Landor would be made to pass through
Taklakot at night, and conveyed directly over the Lippu Pass. The
Political Peshkar Kharak Sing Pal arrived in Taklakot that day
from India, and we held a consultation. We agreed to keep a
watchman in the road all night, but Mr. Landor did not go by. In
the afternoon of the 8th, Mr. Landor and his two men arrived.
They had been rifled of all they possessed and their clothes were
torn and dirty. Mr. Landor and the two men looked very ill and
suffering, Mr. Landor's face being hardly recognisable. He and
his bearer Chanden Sing gave us an account of the tortures that
had been inflicted upon them at Toxem and Galshio, and Mr. Landor
showed the Peshkar Kharak Singh, Pundit Gobaria, myself and many
Bhotiyas (Shokas) twenty-two wounds on his spine, feet and hands
received from the Tibetans. Chanden Sing, who had been
administered two hundred lashes, showed numerous black marks and
open sores where the skin had been torn on both legs. From Lamas
and soldiers who had been present at Mr. Landor's arrest and
tortures I heard the following account.
An ambush had been laid, and Mr. Landor and his bearer were
caught by treachery when some hundred and fifty yards away from
their tent, inside which were the rifles and revolver. They made
a desperate resistance and fought for over fifteen minutes,
struggling to get at their weapons. Thirty men were on Mr. Landor
and twelve or fifteen held Chanden Sing, while four hundred
soldiers armed with matchlocks and swords, and who had kept
hidden behind sandhills, quickly surrounded them. They were
tightly bound with ropes round the neck, chest, and legs, and the
arms were pinioned behind their backs. Chanden Sing received two
hundred lashes that same day. Mr. Landor and Mansing were taken
to Galshio three days later. Ponies were provided for them,
Mansing riding bare-back, while the wooden frame of a saddle was
provided for Mr. Landor, the frame having several iron spikes
sticking out of it in the back part of it. During the long ride
to Galshio these nails produced several wounds on Mr. Landor's
spine and back. Efforts were made, by means of a rope attached to
his handcuffs, to pull him off the saddle and have him trodden to
death by the hundreds of ponies of the Lamas, soldiers and
officers that came full gallop behind. Moreover, two shots were
fired at Mr. Landor. Mansing, unable to use his hands that were
bound, fell many times off his steed and remained some two miles
behind. When Galshio was reached Mr. Landor was pulled off his
saddle, and they told him that his head would be cut off
immediately. Dragged mercilessly by soldiers, he was taken to a
wooden log. Here they stretched his legs wide apart, and his feet
were made fast on the cutting edge of the log by means of tightly
bound ropes that cut into his flesh. Then while an officer held
him in a standing position by the hair of his head, a hot iron
was passed in front of his eyes and a matchlock laid on his
forehead and fired. Lastly, the head Lama approached with a long
sword and swung it right and left close to Mr. Landor's neck, as
if about to cut off the head. Mr. Landor remained composed and
spoke no words. After some twenty minutes Mansing arrived, and
was tied to the same log in front of Mr. Landor, and pretence was
made to behead Mansing, Mr. Landor's face having been covered
with a cloth. The Lamas professed to have been very astonished
when, after having tied the prisoners' hands high up to poles
behind them, Mr. Landor asked for some _tzamba_ (oatmeal), meat
and rice, and Mansing for some butter.
The amazement of the Tibetans appears to have been even greater
when food was brought and Mr. Landor and Mansing partook heartily
of it and asked for more. Mr. Landor was kept chained to the log
for twenty-four hours, Mansing twelve hours. When they were
brought back to Toxem they found that Chanden Sing had been kept
four days tied hands and feet to an upright post, and he had been
given no food.
At Taklakot, an officer (called Nerba) confessed in my own tent,
and before Pundit Gobaria and the Political Peshkar Kharak Sing,
that he himself had held Mr. Landor by the hair when he was
about to be beheaded. He had also fired a shot at Mr. Landor,
and had moreover been ordered by the Lamas to cut off Mr.
Landor's toe and finger nails, as well as a lock of his hair. The
Taklakot Lamas and the Tokchim Tarjum professed to be sorry at
the Galshio Lamas having behaved in such a cruel manner.
At Taklakot we made a list of Mr. Landor's property that was
still missing, and we gave a copy to the Jong Pen and one to the
Tokchim Tarjum, that they may try to recover what they can.
(Signed) HARKUA WILSON,
_Methodist Episcopal Mission._
GUNGI BYAS BHOT, DARMA. _Sept._ 21, 1897.
DR. H. WILSON'S _Certificate of_ A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR'S _injuries and wounds_
TAKLAKOT, TIBET, _Sept._ 8, 1897.
I herewith certify that I have examined the wounds that Mr. A.
Henry Savage Landor received during his imprisonment at Galshio
in Tibet.
There are _five_ large sores along the spinal column and the
spine itself has sustained severe injuries. At the time they were
inflicted these wounds must have caused profuse bleeding.
The feet bear the marks of cruel treatment. On the right foot are
still well visible to-day (nineteen days after wounds were
inflicted) _six_ wounds, viz.--
On the heel one wound one inch long;
Outside ankle " half-inch long;
Front of ankle " one inch long;
Top of foot, three inches above the toes,
one wound one and a-half inch long.
Two small wounds on the upper part of foot.
On the left foot the _four_ wounds are of a very severe
character, and were produced by ropes cutting into the flesh.
One nasty wound above heel, two and a-half inches long.
One wound below the ankle, one and one-fourth of an inch long.
One wound three inches above the toes, two inches long.
One wound on the heel, half an inch long.
These wounds have caused the feet to be much swollen, the left
foot especially having been considerably injured. Its strained
tendons give still intense pain when touched and the foot is very
heavy, inflamed and swollen.
On the left hand there are _five_ wounds.
On middle finger a wound one inch long and deep to the bone.
On root of middle finger, a wound half an inch long.
On small finger, a wound one-fourth of an inch long.
On third " " " "
On first " " half an inch long.
The four fingers are still very swollen.
On the right hand there are only _two_ wounds.
The first, one half-inch long, on the upper side of the hand.
The second, a quarter of an inch long on the second finger.
Both hands are aching and much swollen, and the wounds upon them
were evidently produced by the heavy iron chain of the handcuffs.
On arrival at Taklakot (nineteen days after having been tortured)
Mr. Landor is still suffering from strong fever caused by his
wounds, and no doubt when they were fresh these must have given
Mr. Landor intense pain. His health and strong constitution seem
altogether shattered by the sufferings he has undergone.
His face, hands and feet are very swollen, and he appears
extremely weak; he himself attributed his great exhaustion to
having been unable to sleep for nineteen consecutive nights on
account of the bad sores on the spine and legs and because of the
heavy iron chains with which he was laden.
H. WILSON,
_Hospital Assistant, Methodist Episcopal Mission._
GUNGI BYAS BHOT, DARMA.
N.B.--The numerous smaller wounds, burns, &c., on the face and
body are not taken into account.
A copy of this report was despatched from Dr. Wilson direct to
the Deputy Commissioner, and was forwarded to the Government of
India.
DR. H. WILSON'S _Certificate of_ CHANDEN SING'S _injuries_.
TAKLAKOT, _Sept._ 8, 1897.
I herewith certify that I have examined Chanden Sing, Mr. A.
Henry Savage Landor's servant who accompanied him to Tibet, where
they were arrested and tortured. Chanden Sing has visible to this
day on both his legs, and twenty-one days after they were
inflicted, innumerable black marks produced by flogging. So
severely appears the punishment to have been administered, that
large patches of skin and flesh have been torn off by the
lashing. Chanden Sing is now in very poor health, and it is
evident by his appearance that he suffers greatly from the
tortures and ill-treatment received at the hands of the Tibetans.
H. WILSON,
_Hospital Assistant, Methodist Episcopal Mission._
GUNGI BYAS BHOT, DARMA.
A copy of this was sent by Dr. Wilson to the Deputy Commissioner at Almora, and was forwarded to the Government of India.
_Certificate by_ MISS M. A. SHELDON, M.D., _of the Methodist Episcopal Mission._
M.E. MISSION,
KHELA P.O. DIST. ALMORA.
EAST KUMAON, BHOT.
"All at it and always at it."--WESLEY.
_Sept._ 28, 1897.
This is to certify that I have seen the wounds inflicted upon Mr.
Landor by the Tibetans. It is now about forty days since he was
bound and tortured. The wounds are healing well. The scars upon
his hands caused by being bound with chains behind his back are
plainly visible.
The feet show even more clearly the results of inhuman binding
and torture. The wounds have not yet entirely healed, and there
is much discoloration. One foot is still swollen.
I have not seen the wounds upon his spine inflicted by a
torturing saddle, but he complains of much pain and soreness in
that region.
(Signed) MARTHA A. SHELDON, M.D.
_Certificate from_ DOCTOR TURCHINI, _a Director of the Royal Hospital of S.M. Nuova, Florence, Italy._
D.D.
R. ARCISPEDALE DI S.M. NUOVA,
GABINETTO
ELETTRO-TERAPICO
DIREZIONE,
FIRENZE.
FIRENZE, 12 _Febbraio_, 1898.
Il sottoscritto Medico Primario Direttore del Turno e Gabinetto
elettro-terapico del R° Arcispedale di S. Maria Nuova dichiara
quanto appresso: nel mese di Dicembre appena giunto in questa
Città visitò il Sig^re Henry Savage Landor e lo trovô affetto=
Da _retinite_ all' occhio sinistro con suffusione dei mezzi
trasparenti, e _da grave iperemia retinica_ all' occhio destro.
La vista era _abolita_ a sinistra, _diminuita_ a destra=
La _colonna vertebrale_ era dolente, se leggermente compressa con
un dito, o se appena percossa col martello da percussione il
dolore si faceva intenso, acuto specialmente nelle regioni
lombare e dorsale. La deambulazione non era libera ma incerta, la
funzionalità degli sfinteri molto difettosa per cui difficolta
della mizione e delle evacuazioni.
Presentava poi delle chiazze ecchimobili sopra-malleolari e
sopra-carpiche. L'aspetto suo generale era di persona sofferente
e molto anemica. Fatte le cure che il caso del Sig^re Landor
reclamava, oggi 12 Febbraio notiamo; all' occhio destro risoluta
la iperemia retinica, aumentato il campo visivo, occhio che serve
discretamente alla sua funzione; all' occhio sinistro è molto
turbata la circolazione endoculare e quivi la funzione visiva non
è ristabilita; non vede gli oggetti e tutto gli fa confusione. La
colonna vertebrale presenta sempre dei punti dolenti in specie al
rigonfiamento sacro lombare. La deambulazione è più corretta, ma
gli sarebbe impossibile fare una passeggiata lunga. La mizione e
megliorata, non cosi la defacazione che è sempre difettosa per
impotenza dello sfintere.
Le condizioni generali sono megliorate, ma occorre pero al Sig^re
Landor seguire la cura intrapresa, e specialmente la cura
elettrica ed idroterapica.
(Signed) DOTT. TURCHINI.
COMUNE DI FIRENZE.
OFFICIO D'IGIENE.
_Visto per la legalizzazione della
firma del Sig. Dott. Turchini.
Dal Municipio Firenze
Lira Stamp. Li 12 Febbraio 1898.
Il Sindaco.
P.I.
A. Artimini._
_Letter from the_ POLITICAL PESHKAR, KHARAK SING.
_Private_.
GARBYANG, BHOT,
_November_ 13, 1897.
MY DEAR MR. LANDOR,
I hope that you have received my letter of some time ago and that
you may be quite well now. Are you still at Almora? I have not
yet got back your things from the Jong Pen, but I hear it is
quite true that all your property reached Tokchim a long time
ago. I have sent another letter to the Jong Pen, but cannot get
an answer as the Lippu Pass is now closed owing to a heavy fall
of snow yesterday. It is rumoured that a Tibetan officer is
coming from Lhassa to Taklakot to inquire after your case, and
probably he may have reached Taklakot yesterday, and after
examining your things he will send them down to me. Now I have
nearly finished my work at this place. I have collected the dues
and paid them to the agents of the Jong Pen. I will go back to
Chaudas the day after to-morrow--_i.e._, on the 15th of this
month.
With kind regards and hoping to hear from you soon.
I remain,
Yours sincerely,
KHARAK SING PAL.
_Letter from the_ POLITICAL PESHKAR, KHARAK SING PAL.
HALDWANI, _January_ 11, 1898.
MY DEAR MR. LANDOR,
I hope that by this time you have reached safely home. I have
been very anxious as I have not heard from you or of your safe
arrival there. The dreadful day of the 8th of September is still
vivid in my mind, when I first saw you at Taklakot (in Tibet)
after you had been tortured by the Tibetans, and where I had come
in search of you.
I cannot forget your fearful appearance, with long hair and
beard, and your face, body and limbs covered with wounds and
bruises. When you arrived at Taklakot, in a few miserable rags
stained with blood, dirty and swarming with lice, and surrounded
by the guard of Tibetans, I could hardly believe it possible that
it was you who stood before me, so much you had changed since I
had last seen you.
I am still deeply pained when I think of the pitiable condition
you were in, when you showed me 22 (twenty-two) fresh wounds on
your hands, feet and spine, without counting the injuries to your
face. And indescribable pain gave us too seeing your confiscated
baggage under seal of the Tibetan authorities, and to find it,
when we opened it, to be full of broken or damaged instruments
and other articles of your property.
I think that you may remember my inquiry and consequent anger
when the Tibetan officers and soldiers admitted their guilt of
tying you by your limbs to the stretching log and of placing you
on a spiked saddle; of removing forcibly your toe-nails and
pulling you by the hair of your head. You know quite well that I
had no power to do more than to report the matter to higher
authorities, but I can assure you that it was to me quite
unbearable to hear from the Tibetans that they had brought you to
execution, and that they boasted of having swung the naked
executioner's sword right and left of your neck, and that they
had brought a red-hot iron close to your eyes to blind you.
Your servants' condition, especially that of Chanden Sing, whom
like yourself the Tibetans kept prisoner for twenty-four days,
and who was given two hundred lashes, was pitiable beyond words.
I am anxious to see the photographs taken by Dr. Wilson of you as
you were when you arrived at Taklakot. I trust that by now you
may feel better and that the pain in your spine may have
altogether disappeared. I believe your rifles, revolver, ring,
&c., which I succeeded in recovering from the Tibetans, must have
reached you by now through the Deputy Commissioner at Almora. The
cash and other articles have not been recovered, nor is there any
probability of getting them back. Hoping to receive news of you
soon and with best salaams,
I am, yours most obediently,
K. KHARAK SING PAL,
_Political Peshkar,
Garbyang Dharchula, Bhot._
_Letter from_ COLONEL GRIGG, _Commissioner of Kumaon._
_Commissionership of Kumaon._
_Dated December_ 7, 1897.
MY DEAR LANDOR,
Karak Sing reports that 2 guns (1 damaged), 1 revolver, 1
signet-ring, cash 68/12/-, cartridges (gun) 110, ditto revolver
37, cleaning-rods 2, gun-case 1, leather straps, 1
butterfly-catcher, &c., have been handed to him by the Jong Pen
of Taklakot, and he has requested Deputy Commissioner's orders.
I am glad to hear your things are coming on. I hope you are
getting stronger.
With our kindest regards,
Yours very sincerely,
E.E. GRIGG.
[NOTE BY THE AUTHOR.--_This letter, as will be seen from the date, reached me after the bulk of the book had gone to press_.]
A PRIVATE LETTER FROM J. LARKIN, ESQ., WHO, DEPUTED BY THE GOVERNMENT, PROCEEDED TO THE FRONTIER TO MAKE AN INQUIRY INTO MY CASE.
ALMORA, _August_ 10, 1898.
MY DEAR LANDOR,
Yours of the 21st ult. I am glad to hear that your book on your
experiences in Tibet is nearly finished. I wish you may have
every success with it, as it is only what you deserve after your
trials and hardships in that difficult land of the
ultra-conservative Lamas. I am not aware that the Indian papers
are attacking you. However, they apparently do not get reliable
information if they dispute the fact of your having entered
Tibet. We who were in some way connected with your rescue and
return have not been "interviewed," or we would give the
authentic account of the affair.
I was on a few days' leave at Naini Tal when I heard of your
capture, tortures and expulsion from Tibet. I was deputed by the
Government to proceed at once to the borders and make an inquiry
into the affair. I set off at once, and I met you at Askot, where
you were being looked after by the Rajbar. What a change in your
appearance! When I saw you standing among some of the Askot
natives I could with difficulty identify you. You were bronzed
and weather-beaten to such an extent that you were not
distinguishable from the natives. I do not think you can blame me
for not recognising you readily. Your forehead, nose and the part
of your face below your eyes were scarred, and helped to alter
your appearance very greatly. You did surprise me when you told
me that you would retrace your steps back to the borders on
learning from me that I was hastening on to inquire into your
case. I had then seen the twenty odd wounds you had on your face,
wrists, feet and back. I strongly protested against your
undertaking the fatiguing journey back across the perilous and
arduous road, as I knew you needed rest and good nourishment, and
thought it would be wisest for you to get back to Almora, and be
under a good doctor.
You, however, with your characteristic doggedness, meant to
accompany me, and I must perforce let you. I was glad in the long
run, for you enabled me to make a fuller inquiry than I would
otherwise have been able.
As you know, and as I reported to Government, I found after an
inquiry on the borders that you had with great difficulty and
manoeuvring succeeded in entering Tibet, evading the Jong Pen of
Taklakot, and the Barca Tarjum at Gyanema, and crossing the
Mariam La (Maium Pass) and getting as far as Tuksem (Toxem). You
had been deserted by all the mountaineers who had started with
you and who had promised to accompany you wherever you went. When
you were left with the two Kumaonis, you were surrounded and
captured by the _Governor of that part of Tibet_ and his men.
There, as a sequel to your innumerable fatigues, hardships,
desertions, and privations, you and your two followers were
ill-treated and tortured _by the Governor_. Have you not got a
copy of my official report? I remember you told me you were
applying for it. If you possess the copy, surely that will be
sufficient to confound your traducers. I saw from the public
papers that my report was to be laid on the table of the House of
Commons by the Secretary of State for India.
How did the photographs which we took up at the Lippu Pass turn
out? I should particularly like to have the one of the group on
the pass, and also the one where I am on horseback. I would also
like to have the one _I took of you having your matutinal bath
when the water froze in your hair and on your body_ as it was
thrown on you by Chanden Sing; and no wonder it did, as there
were ten to twelve feet of snow lying about, and a hardy Bhotia
(Shoka) mountaineer had only a few days prior to our arrival been
lost in the snow on crossing the pass.
Doubtless it will afford you some pleasure to learn that you have
earned quite a reputation among the natives, both Tibetan and
Bhotias (Shokas), on account of your universal cordiality,
generosity and pluck. They are constantly inquiring about you,
and relating your many good traits. Should you ever think of
returning here you have made many friends, and you would get a
very warm welcome from the natives.
Dr. H. Wilson tells me that, when he took you over from your
captors, _the officials of Tibet_, you were in a dying state, and
that he only just got you in the nick of time. How are your eyes
and spine? I trust they are quite well again. I look back with
pleasure to my tour up to the border with you, and our return
journey after your journey into Tibet proper, _where you were
subjected to tortures by the Governor of the district thereof_.
With every good wish,
Yours very sincerely,
(Signed) J. LARKIN.
[41] Maium Pass.
[42] Galshio = Gyatsho.
[43] Bhutias = Shokas.
[44] Raja = King.
[45] N.B.--Reproductions of some of the photographs mentioned are given in this book.
INDEX
ABNORMALITIES and Deformities, 263 Aconite, 262 Adultery, 333 Almora, 6 Altitude, greatest reached, 142 Difficulties of travelling at great, 141, 150 Aneroids, 5 Antelopes, 342 Anti Ram Sah (banker), 63, 90 Askote, 14, 460 Rajiwar of, 15, 30, 31, 460 Rajiwar's Court, 15, 16 Authorities (Tibetan), 474, 475
BAGS, 279, 318 Barca Tarjum, 167, 445, 472 Bargain house, 62 Bathing, 132, 464 Bhot, 41, 468 Bitroguare River, 127 Black ointment, 321 Black tents, 232, 314, 315, 316, 317, 343, 345, 346, 349, 355, 367, 381, 431, 432 Black wolf, 218 Bleeding, 262 Boiling-point temperature at Gunkyo Lake, 301 at Rakstal and Mansarowar Lake, 217, 270 Bone-setting, 261 Boots, 227 _Boru_, 258 Botiyas, 43 Boundary between Nepal and Kumaon, 30, 54 Brahmaputra River, or Tsangpu, 306, 307, 308, 309, 313, 342, 429, 430 Ramifications of, 343 Sources of, 307, 430 Tributaries of, 308, 309, 314, 315, 348 Brigands, 53, 176, 192, 200, 216, 217, 220, 225, 229, 292, 293 Manner of speaking, 214 British Government, 452 British Museum of Natural History, 5 British prestige, 40 Brown, Miss, 33, 48 Buddi village, 62 Bungadhura Mountain, 38 Burns and their cure, 261 Butterflies, 134, 213 Byans and Chaudans, 475
CAMERAS, 454 Cannibalism, 335-337 Carpet and rug making, 44 Caves, 34, 62, 213 Chai-Lek, or Tcheto Pass, 62 Chanchubs, 248 Chanden Sing, 8-10, 352, 362, 368, 370, 374, 375, 376, 390, 424, 470, 472, 473, 474, 477, 478, 479, 480 Deposition of, 484 Chanden Sing, Flogging of, 370-372 Charm-boxes, 276 Charms, 240 _Chibbi_, 245, 252 Children, 229 Identification of, 332 Chinese steel, 278 Chipla Mountain, 14 Chipula Forests, 24 _Chiram_, 77 _Chokdens_, 160, 268, 337, 448 _Chokseh_, or table with offerings, 320 Chökti, 75, 114 Chongur Bridge, 113, 114 Circumambulations, 212, 243, 247, 328 Climate, 213 Change in the, 233, 307 Clothing, 6 Cold, 188, 209, 210, 218, 235, 347 Collecting materials, 5 Concubines, 333 Confiscated property, 490, 499 Consulting the oracle, 422 Converts, 49 Courtship, 332 Cracks in the ice, 82, 137, 141 Credentials, 2 Cremation, 334 Cowardice, 276, 439, 448 Cupping, 262
DAFIA, 14 Dancing, 305 Daramsalla, 14 Darma Yangti, 150 Deafness, 263 Delaling Monastery, 448 _Delang_ cake, 95 Dementia, 263 Dentistry, 259 Deolthal, 12 Deposition of witnesses, 477 Devil's Camp, 182, 184 Dharchula, 32, 33 Dholi River, 42 Diary, Notebooks, &c., 451 Diet, 421 Digestive powers, 258 Disposal of the dead by Animals, 335 by Water, 335 Diving at great altitudes, 350 Divorce, 329 Dogmar, 442, 474 Dogpas, 200, 202 Dogs, 311, 410 Doktol Province, 306 Dola, 113 _Dongbo_, or tea churn, 318 Dongon River, 458 Dooti Mountain, 15 Drinking human blood, 256, 337 Dubart, 33 Dues paid by British subjects to Tibetans, 497
EARRINGS, 168, 229, 240, 326 Earthquake, 86 Elongated ears, 262 Evil omens, 365, 403 Evil qualities to be avoided, 248 Evil spirits, 257 Execution ground, 399 Exorcisms, 259, 260, 419
FAKIRS, 204 Fakirs and Mansarowar, 27 Features, 376 Fever and diseases, 257, 263 Fever-demon, 257 Fire-cure, 263, 266 Fish, 240 Fits, 263 Flying prayers, 46, 47, 305, 464 Food, notions of natives regarding, 153 Foreign Office, 466 Fossils, gigantic, 218 Frostbite, 130 Fuel, 131, 156, 347 Funerals, 334, 337
GAKKON River, 194, 442, 448, 450 Gangoli Hat, 11 Gangri Mountains, 211, 233, 301, 308 Garbyang, 63, 458, 460, 462, 471, 472 Gargia, 30 Gaussen, Lieut., 53, 66 Gelupkas, 249 Ghural, 82 Gibti, 57, 58 Goats, 344 Gobaria, Pundit, 63, 452, 453, 473, 484, 487 Deposition of, 488 Goître, 258 _Goling_, 317 _Gomba_, 232, 233, 448 Gori River, 30 Government allowance, 250 Government Inquiry and Report, 452, 460, 466, 477-489 Government of N.W. Provinces and Oudh, 469, 470 Conference held by Lieutenant-Governor of, 470 Government of India, 451, 460, 466 Government Report by J. Larkin, 471 Government, Reports to, 451, 471 Grand Lama, 252 Grigg, Col., Commissioner of Kumaon, 7, 469 Letter from, 499 Gungi, 76, 454 Gungi Shankom, 76, 77 Gunkyo Lake, 296, 301, 304 Gyanema, 445, 472, 475 Gyanema Fort, 163 Gyanema Lake, 162 Gyanema-Taklakot track, 194 Gyatsho, 397, 473, 474, 481, 485, 486, 492
HANDCUFFS, 387, 388, 473 Hare-lip, 258 Harness, 279 Headgear, 227, 393 Hernia, 258 Highways to Tibet, 35-40 Hillmen, 30 Himahlyas, 35-39, 41, 85, 136, 142, 148-154, 156, 308, 314, 340 Hindoo rites at Mansarowar, 242 Honesty and honour, 228 Horse races, 417 House of Commons, 500 Humli, Rongba encampments, 32 Hundes, 41 Hypnotism, 253, 418
IMAGES, 246 India, 2 Indian newspapers, 499 India Office, 466, 471 Injuries and wounds, 484 Injuries to spine, 457 Inlaid metals, 277 Insanity, 263 Inscriptions, 253, 282, 305 Islands, 213
JAGAT Sing, 15 Jealousy, 329 Jewellery, 240 Johari traders, 162 Jolinkan Pass, 128 River, 129 Jong Pen of Taklakot, 53, 65, 68, 90, 205, 438, 441, 453, 462, 464, 472, 475, 488, 489 His hatred of English subjects, 475 Julinba, 250
KACHI Ram, 113, 114 Kali River, 32, 56, 76, 90 Kalika, 32 _Kamarjuri_, the, 28 Kanwa, 76 Karak Sing Pal (Political Peshkàr), 438, 451, 452, 453, 458, 464, 468, 475, 484, 487, 488, 492 Deposition of, 488 Letters from, 497, 498 Kardam, 202, 442 Karko, 162 _Kata_, or veil of friendship, 288, 328, 355, 417, 420 Kathgodam, 469 Kelas, or Tize, 211, 213 Khela, 33 Kiang, or wild horse, 162, 213, 342 _Kiatsamba-pun_, 378 Kunjuk-Sum, 248 Kuti, 81, 123, 124 Castle at, 123 Kuti River, 76, 77, 82, 84, 85, 127, 135 Sources of, 148 Kutzia Daramsalla, 30
LACHU River, 33 Ladak-Lhassa track, 305, 308, 313, 349, 355 Ladjekut Peak, 58 Lahmari, 61 Lama Chokden, 158, 175 Lamas, 242, 245-256, 334-337, 364, 368, 370, 377, 393, 406, 408, 418, 473, 479, 485 Celibacy of, 253, 333 Fasting of, 252 Hermit, 214 Hypocrisy of, 387 Infallibility of, 252 Musicians, 400 Sculptors, 253, 282 Support of, 250 Temporary freedom with women, 256 Unpopularity of, 302 Landor, A. H. Savage. _See_ Savage Landor Langa River, 235 Lapsang, 441, 442, 444, 452 Larkin J., 6, 66, 460, 462, 464, 466, 468, 471, 476, 477 Letters from, 499 Leather-work, 276 Lha Kang, or temple, 245 Lippu Pass, 35, 53, 63, 90, 438, 454, 462, 464 Loads, 4 Loudon Gourkha Fort, 11 Luminosity of water, 208 Lumpiya Glacier, 150 Lumpiya Pass, 81, 90, 150, 438, 441, 442, 444, 472, 475, 477, 486, 487, 488, 492 Luway Pass, 157
_MAGBUN_ (General-in-Chief), 164, 378 Mahommedan shops, 15 Maium Pass, 304, 305, 306, 472, 477 Malpa River, 61 Mangshan, 81, 90 Mangshan Glacier, 138-140 Mangshan Mountain, 491 Mangshan River, 135, 141 Mani wall, 313, 340 Mansarowar Lake, 218, 233, 234, 242, 243, 435, 472, 474, 477, 484, 485, 486, 489 Legend about creation of, 243 and Rakstal Lakes, level of, 217 Ridge dividing, 218, 232 Mansing, the coolie, 126, 352, 362, 390, 406, 407, 409, 470, 472, 474, 477, 478, 482 Deposition of, 486 Marksmanship, 302, 417 Marriageable age, 333 Marriage ceremonies, 327-328 Punishments for adultery, 333 Restrictions on, 328 System, 328 Marshy land, 343, 344, 348 Martini-Henry rifle, 415, 483, 490 Masses kept in ignorance, 252 Matchlocks, 293, 302, 378 Medallions containing ashes of the dead, 268 Medicine-man, 265 Medicines, 6 Melancholia, 263 Metal-work, 277 Methodist Episcopal, Mission, 33 _Middù_, 274 Mirage, 314 Money, 240 Money-lending, 250 Monkeys, 32, 53 Mortification, 416 Mosquitoes, 341 Mud-holes, 344 Musicians, 432
NABI, 77 Nabi Shankom, 76 Naini Tal, 2, 4, 6, 469 Namjun Peak, 62 Nari-Khorsum, 306 Neganza or Nejangar Mountain, 58 Nepal, 76, 458 Nerba, 346, 393, 404, 452, 474, 475, 480, 481, 484, 488, 489, 493 Nerpani track, 57-62, 458 Nimo Nangil, 194 Northern range parallel to Himahlyas, 308, 314, 340, 342 Nunneries, 255
OBOS, 5, 306 Occult arts, 253, 414, 422 Offerings, 246 Officers, 287 Officials, 445 "_Ohe!_" (Tibetan exclamation), 386 "_Omne mani padme hun_," 216, 253, 254 Optical phenomenon, 209
PACKING cases, 4 Pack-saddles, 223, 279, 283 Panku-Gomba, 270 Paralysis, 263 Passes into Tibet, 154, 155 Photographs by J. Larkin, 500 of wounds, &c., 454 by Dr. Wilson, 491, 498 Photography, 466, 469 Pigtails, 276 Piles of stones, 129 Pithoragarh, 11 Plague, 2 Plateau, a high, 150, 156 Plateau, 194 Plenki, 300, 301, 388, 422 Poison, 421 Polyandry, 327-333 _Pombo_, the, 370, 418, 474, 479, 480, 481, 482, 483 Contortions of, 419 Tent of, 368, 397 Pottery, 241 Poverty of the masses, 250 Prayer, a, 381 Prayer-wheels, 255 Provisions, 5, 122 _Puku_, 225, 229, 315 Pungo, 43
RACK, 408, 474, 483, 493 Rakastal, or Rakstal, Lake, 211, 218, 233 _Raksang_, 318, 384 _Rambang_, 62, 92-97 Rankuti River, 33 Raots or Rajis, 17-26, 469 Features of, 23 Food of, 22 Habitations of, 22 Marriages of, 25 Release, 453 Relegar River, 33 Reports (Official), 487 Rheumatism, 258 Rhubarb, 213 Rifles, 5 Rites, religious, 247 Ronkan, 77 Rosary, 255 Royal Geographical Society, 2 _Rupun_, 377, 380, 383, 388 Russian Embassy in London, 1 Government, 1
SACRED dances, 253 Sacrifices, 305, 328 Saddles, 279 Salutations, 287 Samarakand, 1 Sandhills and mounds, 391 Savage Landor, A. H., 475, 477, 484, 486, 487, 488, 489, 491, 492, 493, 494, 495, 496, 499 Sensitiveness to physical pain, 259 _Serai_, 435 Servants, 7 Shadgora, 12 Shakta, 33 Shankula, 53 River, 54 Sheep loads, 31, 344 Sheldon, Miss, 32, 48 Certificate of, 496 Shokas, 43, 68, 188, 190, 450, 451, 452, 457, 460, 462, 464, 466 Cremation, 99 Dancing, 104-106 Death, 98 Diseases, 48 Dwellings, 73, 76 Funerals, 98-110 Hospitality, 72-75 Ladders, 119 Marriages, 95 Notions of earthquakes, 87 Pathetic custom of the, 118 Punishments, 96 Sacrifices, 106 Salutations, 45, 111, 112 Songs and music, 93 Summer residences, 30 Tailor, 88 Traders, 450, 472 Water mills, 33 Winter dwellings, 30, 33 Shosha, 46 Sibling Monastery, 448 Singing, 305, 430 Sirka, 48 Siva, the god, 243 Slings, 272 Snapshot, 462 Snow and ice bridges, 78, 85 Snow-line, 134 Snowstorm, 491 Soldiers, 163, 167, 174, 201, 284, 295, 298, 302, 338, 362, 370, 377, 381, 386, 424, 445, 471, 483, 491 Allowance of, 302 Spectre, 143 Speech, difficulty of, 263 Spies, 90, 157 Spiked saddle, 390, 473, 480, 486, 487, 493 Spirits of the mountains, 28-30 Sports, 417 Stars, brilliancy of, 209 Starvation, effects of, 353 Storms, 154, 184, 201, 234, 235, 271, 290 Stretching-log, 398, 408 Sturt, Mr. (ex-Deputy Commissioner at Almora), 66 Suffocating a goat, 431 Suicide, 263 Suna, 438, 453 Deposition of, 459 Superstitions, 161, 202, 229, 231, 248, 259, 364, 412 Surgery, 260 Swords, 277, 278 Two-handed sword of executioner, 403 Sword exercise previous to decapitation, 404, 405, 474, 482, 493
TAKLAKOT, 448, 451, 458, 472, 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 492 _Taram_ (implement for hot iron torture), 400, 474, 482, 486 Tarbar, 263, 345, 347 _Tatta_, the, 27 _Tckukti_, 324 _Tchu-pun_, 378 Teeth, 258 Tents, 5, 55, 63, 88 Terror Camp, 202 Tethering of ponies, 279 _Thar_, 84, 213 Tibet, 41 Boundary of, 462, 468 Tibetan claims and abuses, 41, 42 Clothes, 225 Craving for alcohol, 170 Cruelty to British subjects, 64 Diet, 318, 384 Encampment, 31, 32 Guard, 113, 137, 154, 158, 160, 166 (see also "Soldiers") Habitations, exterior and interior, 239, 268 Insults, 91, 452, 468 Tibetans on British soil, 466, 469 Practice of leaving one arm bare explained, 226 Threats, 69, 305 Trade with, 35 Tinker, 457 Tinker Pass, 106, 458 Tinker River, 458 Titela Daramsalla, 47 Tokchim Tarjum, 257, 393, 432, 452, 480, 484, 488 Tongzu Pangti, 84 Torture Implements, 399 Toxem, 473, 474, 478, 485, 486 Track on British soil, 116 Transmigration of evil spirits, 259 Treachery, 360, 473, 480 Treatment of umbilical cord, 263 Tucker, 233, 435, 472, 477 Lamasery, 245 _Tung-pun_, 378 Turchini, Dr. (director of Royal Hospital, S.M. Nuova, Florence), certificate of, 496, 497
UMBRELLA, importance of, 168 Under-Secretary to Government of N.W. Provinces and Oudh, 476 Urghin, 247
VENTRILOQUISM, 429 Vessels and instruments of human bone, 256, 337 Vision, 422, 435
WARNER, Sir W. Lee (Letter from), 471 Waterfall, 61, 62 Weaving loom, 44 Webbed fingers, 248, 422 White stones, 305 Widow's trouble, a, 330 Wilson, Dr. H., 33, 64, 76, 120, 138, 438, 450, 452, 454, 464, 468, 475, 484, 485, 486, 488, 489, 491 Certificate of A. H. Savage Landor's wounds and injuries, 494, 495 Certificate of Chanden Sing's injuries, 495 Deposition of, 486 Letter from, 491 Photographs by, 491 Statements by, 491, 492 Wind, 150, 187, 201, 235, 280, 309, 464 Wire-making, 278 Witnesses, 466 Woman from Lhassa, 326 Women, 218, 229, 321-326, 424 Attire of, 324 Scarcity of, 263 Strength of, 322 Woven patterns, 44
YAKS, 163, 222, 310, 349, 472 Yellow flowers, 213 Yutzang province, 306, 429
ZEHERAM, 73, 111 Zeyan Yangti, 458 Zirri River, 458
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In the forbidden landChapter CVI: Appendix (2)
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